Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. Behind the Scenes

Transcription

1 494 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Adrian Ineichen, Alex Harford, Andrew Coker, Ben Fugill, Charley Harris, Chiara Motta, Dimitar Vlaevsky, Felice Oxborrow, Flavius Streianu, Graham Meale, Jaap van Beelen, Jim Blackstone, Jim Van Leemput, Joaquín Tabales, John McKellar, John Roxburgh, Katarzyna Piriankov, Kay Martin, Marco Nawijn, Marinela Stere, Mayte Penelas, Melanie Luangsay, Mihai Bursesc, Mike Black, Olav van der Stoep, Peter Phillips, Richard Mortel, Raquel Buades, Richard Snarsky, Sarah Foxwell, Scott Allsop, Sonya Jetcheva, Thomas & Sona Hoisington, Tom Flannaghan WRITER THANKS Mark Baker First, thanks to my co-writers and editors at Lonely Planet for their help in this project. A big thanks, too, to Lonely Planet readers and website users who sent in suggestions, complaints and compliments on previous editions. On the ground in Romania, I d like to thank friends Florina Presadă, Ioana Lupea, Ana Raluca, Ruxandra Predescu, Dalia Tabacaru, Ştefania Oprina, Crina Becheanu, Elena Loghin, Diana Podasca, Narcisa Suruianu, Mirela Petra, Lori Alexe, Paula Gusetu Nimigean, and her husband Costi. In Bulgaria, my gratitude goes out to Tatyana Spasova, Martina Ivanova Staneva-Antonova and Dani Nencheva, among many others. Steve Fallon Mulțumesc foarte mult to those who provided assistance, ideas and/or hospitality along the way in Maramureş, Crişana and the Banat, including: Dan Carpov and Rada Pavel in Baia Mare; Ion Hotea, who pulled me out of a ditch (literally) in Mănăsteria; and Duncan and Penny Ridgley in Breb. Thanks, too, to co-authors Mark Baker and Anita Isalska for help and ideas along the way. As always, my efforts here are dedicated to my partner, Michael Rothschild. Anita Isalska Big thanks to the following for fantastic Bulgaria tips: Denitsa Leshteva and Plovdiv s helpful tourism team; Hristo Giulev; Sophia Bozhkova and the VT tourism crew; Mila Todorova; Samokov TIC; Ivan Dzhamulov; and especially my insightful co-author Mark Baker. Thanks to my intrepid parents, who met me at Rila Monastery and gave me fresh eyes on this extraordinary place. To those who offered their time during my research in Transylvania, including Andrea Rost, Sana Nicolau, Cristina Cofaru, Cristiana Fica, Mark Tudose, Crina Prida, Colin Shaw, Karla Zimmerman and my fellow writer Steve Fallon. Love to Normal Matt, who enhanced my time in Sibiu and cheered me through the write-up. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, Cover photograph: Aerial view of Old Town, Brasov, Transylvania, Romania, Dziewul/Shutterstock

2 495 BEHIND THE SCENES THIS BOOK This 7th edition of Lonely Planet s Romania & Bulgaria guidebook was researched and written by Mark Baker, Steve Fallon and Anita Isalska. The previous edition was written by Mark Baker, Chris Deliso, Richard Waters and Richard Watkins. This guidebook was produced by the following: Destination Editor Brana Vladisavljevic Product Editor Vicky Smith Senior Cartographer David Kemp Book Designer Katherine Marsh Assisting Editors Andrew Bain, Imogen Bannister, Nigel Chin, Bruce Evans, Victoria Harrison, Rosie Nicholson, Susan Paterson, Saralinda Turner Assisting Cartographer Alison Lyall Cover Researcher Naomi Parker Thanks to Jenna Myers, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Tracy Whitmey, Amanda Williamson

3 496 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Index ABBREVIATIONS (B) Bulgaria (R) Romania SYMBOLS 1876 April Uprising 452 A accessible travel Bulgaria 480 Romania 265 accommodation Black Sea Coast (B) 400 Bulgaria language 273-4, 489 Romania activities, see also individual activities Bulgaria Romania air travel to/from Bulgaria to/from Romania within Bulgaria 484 within Romania 269 airports Bulgaria 482 Romania 266 Alba Iulia (R) , 130 Albena (B) 424 Aleksander Nevski Cathedral (B) animals, see also individual species Bulgaria 460 Apollonia Arts Festival (B) 290, 405 April Uprising 452 Apuseni Mountains (R) Apuseni Nature Park (R) 161, 163 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 aquariums Central Eco-Tourism Museum of the Danube Delta (R) 215 Constanţa Aquarium (R) 221 Arad (R) 162-5, 164 Arbanasi (B) 375 Arbore Monastery (R) archaeological sites, see also fortresses, Roman sites, ruins, tombs Madara Archaeological Reserve (B) 364 Sarmizegetusa Regia (R) 135 Thracian Tomb of Sveshtari (B) 14, 434, 14 architecture medieval (R) 24 National Revival (B) 346, 385 Saxon (R) 15, 104-6, 15 wooden churches 176 wooden gateways 176 Arieşeni (R) 163 art centres, see cultural centres art galleries, see museums & galleries arts Romania Bulgaria ATMs Bulgaria 478 Romania 262 B Bachkovo Monastery (B) 353 baggage 275 Baia Mare (R) , 169 Băile Felix (R) Băile Tuşnad (R) 120 Balchik (B) 424-6, 425 Balkan Range, see Stara Planina Banat (R) 32, accommodation 149 climate 149 food 149 highlights 150, 150 history 151 travel seasons 149 Bansko (B) 332-6, 333 Bârgău Valley (R) 147 bars 274 Bârsana (R) bathrooms 480 beaches Amphora Beach (R) 227 Black Sea Coast (B) 9, 9 Bulgaria 286, 397 Burgas (B) 399 Crush (R) 225 Mamaia (R) 225 Plaja de Carta (R) 227 Primorsko (B) 408 safety 399 Sfântu Gheorghe Beach (R) 219 Sozopol (B) Sulina Beach (R) 217 Sunny Beach (Slânchev Bryag) 412 bears 248, 461 beer Bulgaria 472 Romania 256 Belogradchik (B) Belogradchik rock formations 432 Berbeşti (R) 175 Bicaz Gorges (R) 197 Biertan (R) 105 birdwatching Bulgaria 458 Burgas 401 Lake Srebârna (B) 440 Romania Tulcea (R) 215 Bistriţa (R) Black Sea Coast (B) 9, 294, , 9 accommodation 395 climate 395 food 395 highlights 396 history 397 travel seasons 395 Black Sea Coast (R) 32, 220-8, 221 accommodation 211 climate 211 food 211 highlights 212, 212 history 213 travel seasons 211 Black Sea Littoral (R) Blagoevgrad (B) boat travel Bulgaria 484 to/from Romania 269 within Romania 269 boat trips 407 boating Mamaia (R) 226 Sfântu Gheorghe (R) 219 Sulina (R) 217 Tulcea (R) books Bulgaria 444 Romania 230, 233, 237, 238, 239, 242, border crossings 267 Bulgaria 482, 483 Romania 267 Ukraine 175 Boris I 449 Borovets (B) Borşa (R) 182 Borşa Complex (R) 182 Botiza (R) 180 Boyana (B) Bran (R) 93-4 Bran Castle (R) 10, 293, 11

4 497 Braşov (R) 85-92, 86 accommodation activities 88-9 drinking 91 entertainment 91 food 90-1 history 85 nightlife 91 shopping 91 sights 85, 87-8 tourist information 91 travel to/from 91-2 travel within 92 Breb (R) breweries, see also distilleries Csiki Sör Brewery Tour (R) 120 World of Zagorka (B) 391 bridges Bridge of Lies (R) 111 Danube Bridge (B) 435 Bucegi Mountains (R) 82-3, 84, 83 Bucharest (R) 31, 34-57, 40-1, 46, 8-9 accommodation 34, activities 47-8 climate 34 drinking 51-2 entertainment 52-4 festivals & events 48 food 34, 50-1 highlights 36-7, 36-7 history 35 itineraries 39 nightlife 51-2 shopping 54 sights 35, 38-9, 42-5, 47 tourist information 54-5 tours 48 travel seasons 34 travel to/from 55-7 travel within 57 Bucharest region 58-9, 59 Bucovina (R) 10, 32, 183-5, , 207, 11 accommodation 183 climate 183 food 183 highlights 184, 184 history 185 monasteries 204-9, 207 travel seasons 183 Bucovina Monasteries (R) 204-9, 207 Budeşti (R) budgeting Bulgaria 285 Romania 23 Bulgaria , accessible travel 480 accommodation activities arts ATMS 478 books 444 budget 285 cell phones 284 children, travelling with 475 climate 284, , 284 consulates 476 credit cards 478 culture currency 284 customs regulations 475 discount cards drinks 471-2, 476 economy electricity 476 embassies 476 emergencies 285 etiquette 480 events exchange rates 285 festivals food gay travellers 476 GLBTI travellers 476 health highlights 6-16, 6-7, 8-16 history insurance internet resources 285, 477, 479 itineraries 291-2, 291, 292 language 284, legal matters 477 lesbian travellers 476 media 479 medical services mobile phones 284 money 284 music opening hours 478 politics people phonecards 480 politics population 445, postal services 479 public holidays 479 religion 467 scams 478, 487 smoking 479 telephone services 284, time 480 tipping 478 tourist information 480 tours 484 travel seasons 284, 284 travel to/from 267, 285, travel within vacations 479 visas 284, volunteering 481 weather 284, weights & measures 479 wildlife wine work 481 Burgas (B) , 398 bus travel to/from Bulgaria 350, 483 to/from Romania within Bulgaria within Romania business hours Bulgaria 478 Romania 263 C Câmpulung Moldovenesc (R) 210 car travel language 277, 492 road distance chart (B) 486 road distance chart (R) 271 road rules 270, 487 to/from Bulgaria 483 to/from Romania 268 within Bulgaria within Romania 270 Carpathians (R) 15, 19, 15, 19 castles & palaces 24 Alba Carolina Citadel (R) 131 Bánffy Castle (R) 146 Bran Castle (R) 10, 93, 11 Corvin Castle (R) 134 Cotroceni Palace (R) 47 Deva Citadel (R) Făgăraş Citadel (R) 107 Lăzarea Castle (R) 122 Mikó Castle (R) Neamţ Citadel (R) 193 Oradea Fortress (R) 159 Peleş Castle (R) 77, 80 Pelişor Palace (R) 80-1 Poienari Citadel (R) 69 Râşnov Fortress (R) 95 Royal Citadel (R) 200 Shumen Fortress (B) 362 Sighişoara Citadel (R) 99 Summer Palace of Queen Marie & Botanical Gardens (B) 425 Timișoara Fortress (R) 153 Tsarevets Fortress (B) 365-6, 366 cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals caves 246 Apuseni Nature Park (R) 161 Bears Cave (R) 161 Daniel the Hermit s Cave (R) 206 Golubovitsa Cave (B) 356 Ice Cave (R) 161 Ledenika Cave (B) Magura Cave (B) 432 Meziad Cave (R) 161 Orlova Chuka Cave (B) 439 Șinca Veche (R) 108 Smolyan (B) 356 Trigrad Cave (B) 358 Uhlovitsa Cave (B) 356 Yagodina Cave (B) 358 Ceahlău National Park (R) , 199 Ceauşescu, Elena 45, Ceauşescu, Nicolae 45, cell phones Bulgaria 284 Romania 22, 264 cemeteries Bellu Cemetery (R) 44, 47 Ghencea Civil Cemetery (R) 45 Hungarian Cemetery (R) Jewish Cemetery, Iaşi (R) 188 Jewish Cemetery, Sighetu Marmaţiei (R) 172 INDEX B-C

5 498 INDEX C-D cemeteries cont Martyr-Heroes of the December 1989 Revolution Cemetery (R) 47 Merry Cemetery (R) 178 Sephardic Jewish Cemetery (R) 44 Sulina Cemetery (R) 218 Central Mountains (B) 294, accommodation 359 climate 359 food 359 highlights 360, 360 history 361 travel seasons 359 chalga 465 Chepelare (B) children, travelling with Bucharest (R) 48 Bulgaria 475 Romania 259 Sofia (B) 312 Chiprovtsi (B) churches & cathedrals, see also monasteries Aleksander Nevski Cathedral (B) Bârsana Church (R) 179 Black Church (R) 85 Boyana Church (B) 317 Bulgaria 286 Cathedral of Saint Vissarion (B) 356 Cathedral of St John the Baptist (R) 62 Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin (B) 417, 279 Chapel of Jesus (R) 123 Church of Rozhdestvo Bogorodichno (B) 325 Church of Sveta Bogoroditsa (B) 342 Church of Sveti Arhangeli Mihail (B) 377 Church of Sveti Arhangeli Mikhail & Gavril (B) 375 Church of Sveti Dimitâr (B) 367 Church of Sveti Konstantin & Elena (B) 342 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Church of Sveti Petar & Pavel (B) 367 Church of the Dominican Monastery (R) 101 Church of the Icon (R) 47 Church of the Three Hierarchs (R) 189 Church of Vavedenie Presvetiya Bogoroditsi (B) 330 Church on the Hill (R) 101 Creţulescu Church (R) 42 Evangelical Church (R) 147 Fortified Church, Biertan (R) 105 Fortified Church, Cisnădie (R) 116 Fortified Church, Viscri (R) 106 Fortress Church (R) 127 Forty Martyrs Church (B) 367 Hărman Fortified Church (R) 97 Hungarian Reformed Church (R) 137 Maramureş (R) 176, 13, 13 Mirăuţi Church (R) 200 Moldavian Metropolitan Cathedral (R) 188 Nativity Church (B) 375 Nativity Memorial Church (B) 390 Nativity of St John the Baptist Church (R) 196 New St George s Church (R) 38 Old Princely Court Church (R) 38 Orthodox Cathedral (R) 127 Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral (R) 154 Patriarchal Cathedral (R) 43 Prejmer Fortified Church (R) 97 Princely Church (R) 67 Princely Court (R) 69 Reformed Church (R) 154 Roman Catholic Cathed ral, Oradea (R) 159 Roman Catholic Cathedral, Timișoara (R) 153 Roman Catholic Church (R) 127 Serbian Orthodox Church (R) 153 Sf Ioan Botezătorul Church (R) 94 St Dumitru s Church (R) 202 St Mary s Evangelical Church (R) St Michael s Church (R) 137 St Nicholas Cathedral (R) 88 Stavropoleos Church (R) 38 Sveta Marina Church (B) 342 Sveta Nedelya Cathedral (B) 298 Sveta Petka Samardzhiiska Church (B) 298 Sveta Sofia Church (B) 303 Sveta Troitsa Church (B) 333 Sveti Georgi Rotunda (B) 299 Sveti Nikolai Russian Church (B) 299 Sveti Sedmochislenitsi Church (B) 304 Sveti Stefan Church (B) 413 Târgovişte Cathedral (R) 65 Târgu Church (R) 65 cinema, see films Cisnădie (R) 116 city walls 112 climate Bulgaria 284, 284 Romania 22, 22 Cluj-Napoca (R) 14, , 138, 14 accommodation 140 activities 139 drinking entertainment 142 festivals & events 139 food nightlife sights tourist information 142 travel to/from 142 communism 454 Constanţa (R) 220-5, 222 accommodation 223 activities 223 drinking 224 entertainment 225 food 224 nightlife 224 sights tourist information 225 travel to/from 225 consulates, see embassies & consulates Cotnari (R) 191 courses Bulgarian language 305 cooking (R) 255 diving 405, 409 woodcarving 378 Covasna (Hungary) 119 Craiova (R) 70-3, 71 credit cards 275 Bulgaria 478 Romania 262 Crişana (R) 32, , accommodation 149 climate 149 food 149 highlights 150, 150 history 151 cultural centres ARCUB (R) 53 BârsanArt (R) 179 Fabrica de Pensule (R) culture Bulgaria Romania 230-1, currency Bulgaria 284, 478 Romania 22, 262 Curtea de Argeş (R) customs regulations Bulgaria 475 Romania 259 cycling Bulgaria 458-9, 484 language 492 Romania 245, 269 Varna (B) 419 D dangers, see safety Danube (B) 294 Danube Bridge 435 Danube Delta (R) 13, 32, , 213, 13 accommodation 211 climate 211 food 211 highlights 212, 212

6 499 history 213 travel seasons 211 Danube River region (B) , 428 accommodation 427 climate 427 food 427 highlights 428, 428 history 429 travel seasons 427 Deva (R) 132-4, 133 Devin (B) disabilities, travellers with Bulgaria 480 Romania 265 discount cards Bulgaria 475 Romania 259 distilleries, see also breweries Enio Bonchev Rose Distillery (B) 388 diving Golden Sands (B) 423 Varna (B) 420 Dracula 242-3, see also Ţepeş, Vlad Dragomirna Monastery (R) 206 drinking language (B) 490 language (R) 274 drinks beer 256 ţuică rakia 472 wine 12, 67, 191, 256, 13 driving, see car travel driving tours 207, 207 Dryanovo Monastery (B) 376 E economy Bulgaria Romania electricity Bulgaria 476 Romania 260 embassies & consulates Bulgaria 476 Romania 260 emergencies Bulgaria 285 language 275, 490 Romania 23 endangered species 461 Etâr (B) ethnic minorities Bulgaria Romania etiquette Bulgaria 285, 480 Romania 262 events, see festivals & events exchange rates Bulgaria 285 Romania 23 F Făgăraş (R) 107 Făgăraş Mountains (R) 106-9, 107 ferry travel Bulgaria 441 Romania 216, 267 festivals & events Apollonia Arts Festival (B) 290, 405 Festival of Medieval Arts & Crafts (R) 27, 102 George Enescu Music Festival (R) 28, 48, 27 Goat Milk Festival (B) 290 Golden Grapes Festival (B) 288 International Jazz Festival (B) 290 International Theatre Festival (R) 27 Plovdiv Night of the Galleries (B) 290 Rose Festival (B) 290 Spirit of Burgas Festival (B) 290 Transilvania International Film Festival (R) 27, 139 Untold Festival (R) 28, 139, 27 Varna Summer International Music Festival (B) 290, 420 Young Wine Parade (B) 290 films Bulgaria 444 Romania 230, 243, 251 fishing 215 folk culture Bulgaria Romania 24, food Bulgaria 470-2, 477 cheese 471 Easter specialities 289, 289 language 274, 490 mehanas 472 rakia 472 Romania 261 shopska 472 football 53 fortresses 24, see also castles & palaces, ruins Arad Fortress (R) 162 Baba Vida Fortress (B) 433 Bulgaria 286 Cherven Fortress (B) 439 Kaleto Fortress (B) 432 Roman Fortress of Sexaginta Prista (B) 434 Friendship Bridge 435 G galleries, see museums & galleries Gârda de Sus (R) 163 gardens, see parks & gardens gay travellers Bulgaria 476 Romania 260 George Enescu Music Festival (R) 28, 48, 27 Gheorgheni (R) Giuleşti (R) 175 GLBTI travellers Bulgaria 476 Romania 260 Golden Sands (B) 423 Greece, travel to/from 267 H Hărman Fortified Church (R) 97 health Bulgaria Romania hiking Apuseni Mountains (R) Borovets (B) 327 Borşa Complex (R) 182 Bucegi Mountains (R) 84 Bulgaria 287, Carpathians (R) 15, 15 Ceahlău National Park (R) 198 Chepelare (B) 353 Etâr (B) 379 Malîovitsa (B) 328 Pirin Mountains (B) 330 Poiana Braşov (R) 94 Prislop Pass (R) 182 Rarău Massif (R) Retezat Mountains (R) 135 Rodopi Mountains (B) 354 Romania safety 245 Stara Planina (B) 15, 381, 15 Vitosha Nature Park (B) , 319 Hisar (B) historic buildings Alexandru Ioan Cuza University (R) 188 Arad Town Hall (R) 162 Banca Agricolă (R) 112 Butchers Bastion (R) 168 Canon s Corridor (R) 159 Casa Vlad Dracul (R) 101 Castelul de Lut Valea Zanelor (R) 108 Citadel, Braşov (R) 88 Constanţa Casino (R) 221 County Council Building (R) 127 Elie Wiesel Memorial House (R) 172 Former Ceauşescu Residence (R) 45 Hirscher House (R) 87 Konstantsalieva House (B) 375 Matthias Corvinus House (R) 137 Palace of Parliament (R) 9, 35, 8-9, 25 Peyo Yavorov House- Museum (B) 304 President s Building (B) 302 Princely Court Exposition (R) 195 Romania 25, 25 Romanian Athenaeum (R) 39, 27 Scholars Stairway (R) 101 Snagov Palace (R) 58 Stephen s Tower (R) 168 Strada Sforii (R) 87 INDEX D-H

7 500 INDEX H-M historic buildings cont Town Hall Tower (R) 158 Water Tower (R) 74 historic sites Ulitsa Gurko (B) 367 history April Uprising 452 Bulgaria communism 454 Greek Macedonian National Revival Ottoman Roman 417, Romania Thracian WWII hitching Bulgaria 487 Romania 270 safety 270, 487 holidays Romania 263 horse riding Bulgaria 459 Romania 245 hot springs, see mineral baths Huedin Microregion (R) Humor Monastery (R) 206 I Iaşi (R) , accommodation drinking entertainment food 190 nightlife sights Ieud (R) 180 insurance Bulgaria Romania 260, 261 International Theatre Festival (R) 27 internet resources Bulgaria 285, 477, 479 Romania 259, 261 Iza Valley (R) Izvoare (R) 171 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 K Kaliakra Cape (B) 421 Kalibash Villages (R) 98 Karlovo (B) 385-6, 387 kayaking 399 Koprivshtitsa (B) 385 L Ladislas, King 451 Lake Srebârna (B) language Bulgaria 284, Romania 22, 252, legal matters Bulgaria 477 Romania lesbian travellers Bulgaria 476 Romania 260 GLBTI travellers Bulgaria 476 Romania 260 literature Bulgaria 444 Romania 230 local transport Bulgaria Romania 270, 272 Lovech (B) luggage 275 M Madara (B) Măgura (R) 98 Malîovitsa (B) 328 Mamaia (R) maps 381, Mara Valley (R) Maramureş (R) 13, 32, , 13 accommodation 166 climate 166 food 166 highlights 167, 167 history 168 travel seasons 166 Marginea (R) 208 market 274 measures Romania 264 media Romania 264 medical services Bulgaria Romania 261 Melnik (B) memorials, see monuments & memorials Miercurea Ciuc (R) 120-2, 121 mineral baths Bulgaria 384, 458 Romania 247 mobile phones Bulgaria 284 Romania 22, 264 Moldavia (R) 32, accommodation 183 climate 183 food 183 highlights 184, 184 history 185 travel seasons 183 Moldoviţa Monastery (R) 205 monasteries, see also churches & cathedrals Agapia Monastery (R) 193 Aladzha Monastery (B) 423 Antim Monastery (R) 43 Arbore Monastery (R) Bachkovo Monastery (B) 353 Bărboi Monastery (R) 188 Bârsana Monastery (R) 179 Basarbovo Rock Monastery (B) Bogdana Monastery (R) 208 Brâncoveanu Monastery (R) 108 Bucovina (R) 10, 32, 204-9, 207, 11 Cherepish Monastery (B) 429 Chiprovtsi Monastery (B) Curtea de Argeş Cathedral & Monastery (R) 69 Dragalevtsi Monastery (B) 318 Dragomirna Monastery (R) 206 Dryanovo Monastery (B) 376 Franciscan Monastery (R) 121 Golia Monastery (R) 187 Humor Monastery (R) 206 Ivanovo Rock Monastery (B) 439 Lopushanski Monastery (B) 431 Moldoviţa Monastery (R) 205 Monastery of St John the New (R) Neamţ Monastery (R) 194 Preobrazhenski Monastery (B) Prince Mihai Monastery (R) 43 Putna Monastery (R) 206 Rila Monastery (B) 10, 324-7, 10 Rozhen Monastery (B) 338 Schitul Dârvari (R) 45 Sihla Monastery (R) 193 Sinaia Monastery (R) 81 Șinca Veche (R) 108 Snagov Monastery (R) 58 Sokolski Monastery (B) 379 Suceviţa Monastery (R) 205 Troyan Monastery (B) 383 Văratec Monastery (R) Voroneţ Monastery (R) money 275 Bulgaria 284, 475, Romania monuments & memorials Asenevtsi Monument (B) 367 Founders of the Bulgarian State Monument (B) Freedom Monument (B) 390 Piteşti Prison Memorial (R) 67 Reconciliation Park (R) 162 Sofia Monument (B) 299 St John of Nepomuk & Virgin Mary Statue (R) 153 Vasil Levski Memorial (B) 304 mosques Banya Bashi Mosque (B) 299 Dzhumaya Mosque (B) 343

8 501 Eski Mosque (B) 391 Great Mahmudiye Mosque (R) 221 Tombul Mosque (B) 362 motorcycle travel Bulgaria 458-9, 483 Romania 268 within Romania 270 mountain biking 245 mountaineering, see also rock climbing Malîovitsa (B) 328 Mt Tâmpa (R) 87 multiculturalism Bulgaria 467 Romania museums & galleries Aleksander Nevski Crypt (B) 303 Angel Kânchev House-Museum (B) 377 Archaeological Museum, Burgas (B) 397 Archaeological Museum, Hisar (B) 384 Archaeological Museum, Plovdiv (B) 342 Archaeological Museum, Sofia (B) 299 Archaeological Museum, Varna (B) 417 Archaeology & History Museum (R) 162 Art Collection Museum (R) 43 Art Museum, Braşov (R) 88 Art Museum, Craiova (R) 70-1 Art Museum, Piteşti (R) 67 Art Museum, Ploieşti (R) 62 ASTRA National Museum Complex (R) 112 Atanas Krastev House (B) Balabanov House (B) 341 Banat History Museum (R) 154 Banat Village Museum (R) 154 Bansko Permanent Icon Exhibition (B) 334 Bran Village Museum (R) 93 Braşov Historical Museum (R) 87 Brukenthal Palace (R) 111 Bucovina History Museum (R) 201 Bucovinian Village Museum (R) 200 Center for Contemporary Art (B) Central Eco-Tourism Museum of the Danube Delta (R) 215 City Art Gallery (B) 345 City Gallery of Fine Arts (B) 343 Clock Museum (R) 62 Clock Tower (R) 99, 101 Communist Consumers Museum (R) 154 Cotroceni Palace (R) 47 County Art Museum (R) 168 County Museum (R) 147 Cucuteni Museum (R) 195 Cultural Center Thrakart (B) 345 Culture Palace (R) Darvas-La Roche House (R) Daskalov House (B) 377 Earth & Man Museum (B) 304 Ecclesiastical & Historical Museum (B) 325 Egg Museum (R) 206 Etâr Ethnographic Open- Air Museum (B) 379 Ethnographic & Folk Art Museum (R) 168 Ethnographic Museum, Braşov (R) 88 Ethnographic Museum, Burgas (B) Ethnographic Museum, Craiova (R) 71 Ethnographic Museum of Transylvania (R) 137 Ethnographic Museum, Târgu Mureş (R) Ethnographical Museum, Plovdiv (B) 342 Ethnographical Museum, Sofia (B) 302 Exposition Monastery Farm (B) 325 First Romanian School Museum (R) 88 Folk Art & Ethnographic Museum (R) 215 Folk Art Museum (R) 221 Franz Binder Museum of World Ethnology (R) 112 George Enescu Museum (R) 43 Grigore Antipa Natural History Museum (R) 43 Haáz Rezső Museum (R) 123 Hadzhi Dimitâr Museum (B) Hindlian House (B) 342 Historical & Ethnographical Museum (B) 334 Historical Museum (B) 356 History & Archaeology Museum (R) 215 History Museum (R) 111 Histria Archaeological Complex & Museum (R) 224 House Museum of Neofit Rilski (B) 334 House Museum of Nikola Vaptsarov (B) 334 Icon Gallery, Plovdiv (B) 343 Icon Gallery, Rila Monastery (B) 325 Iron Gates Museum (R) 74 Jewish History Museum (R) 44 Jewish Museum (R) 189 Kordopulov House (B) 337 Kulata Ethnological Complex (B) Maramureş Ethnographic Museum (R) 172 Memorial Museum to the Victims of Communism & to the Resistance (R) 173 Mihai Eminescu Museum of Literature (R) 189 Military Barracks (R) 65 Mirkovich House (B) 393 Multimedia Visitors Centre (B) 367 Museum of Folk Craft & Applied Arts (B) 382 Museum of History and Archaeology (R) 196 Museum of Icons (B) 377 Museum of National Revival & Constituent Assembly (B) 367 Museum of Oil (R) 62 Museum of Otets Paisii Hilendarski (B) 334 Museum of Printing & Old Romanian Books (R) 65-6 Museum of Roses (B) 386 Museum of Socialist Art (B) 305 Museum of the 1989 Revolution (R) 151 Museum of the History of Bucharest (R) 38 Museum of the Romanian Peasant (R) 44 Museum of Wine (B) 337 Muzeul Național Secuiesc (R) 119 National Art Museum, Bucharest (R) 39 National Art Museum, Cluj-Napoca (R) 137 National Exhibition of Crafts & Arts (B) 383 National Gallery Quadrat 500 (B) National History & Archaeological Museum (R) 220 National History Museum (R) 38 National History Museum of Transylvania (R) 137 National Military Museum (R) 47 National Museum of Contemporary Art (R) 35 National Museum of Geology (R) 44 National Museum of History (B) National Museum of Military History (B) 305 National Museum of Natural History (B) 299, 302 National Village Museum (R) 44 Natural History Museum (B) 398 Natural Science Museum (R) 71 Natural Sciences Museum Complex (R) 222 Naval History Museum (R) 221 Nedkovich House (B) 345 Neolithic Dwellings Museum (B) 391 INDEX M

9 502 INDEX M-P museums cont Nicolae Grigorescu Museum (R) 64 Palace of Culture (R) Parcul Etnografic Romulus Vuia (R) 138 Permanent Exhibition of Dimitar Kirov (B) 343 Pharmaceutical Museum (R) 111 Pharmacy History Collection (R) 137 Planetarium (R) Princely Court (R) 65 Putna Museum (R) 206 Regional History Museum (B) 343 Regional Museum of History, Shumen (B) 362 Salt Museum (B) Sarafkina Kâshta (B) Silversmith s House (R) 147 Smolyan Art Gallery (B) 356 Sofia City Art Gallery (B) 302 Sofia History Museum (B) 298 State Art Museum (B) 367 Teleki-Bolyai Library (R) 127 Theodor Aman Museum (R) 42 Theodor Pallady Museum (R) 45 Timișoara Art Museum (R) 151, 153 Tryavna Museum School of Painting (B) 377 Tsanko Lavrenov & Mexican Art Exhibitions (B) 343 Union Museum (R) Vasil Levski Museum (B) 380 Veliko Târnovo Archaeological Museum (B) 368 Velyan s House (B) Village Museum, Baia Mare (R) 168 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Village Museum, Sighetu Marmaţiei (R) 172 Zambaccian Museum (R) 45 Zlatyu Boyadjiev Gallery (B) 343 Zosim Oancea Glass Icons Museum (R) 117 music Bulgaria Romania 230, mythology Bulgaria 287 Romania N national parks & reserves, see also parks & gardens, wildlife reserves Apuseni Nature Park (R) 161, 163 Blue Rocks Nature Park (B) 393 Breite Ancient Oak Tree Reserve (R) 101 Bulgaria 460 Ceahlău National Park (R) , 199 Danube Delta (R) Hăşmaş-Bicaz Gorges National Park (R) 197 Iron Gates National Park (R) 74 Kaliakra Nature Reserve (B) 421 Piatra Craiului National Park (R) 96 Pirin National Park 16, 329, 333, 16, 287 Romania 247 Ropotamo Nature Reserve (B) 407 Rusenski Lom Nature Park (B) , 439 Strandzha Nature Park (B) 410 Vitosha Nature Park (B) , 319 Vrachanski Balkan Nature Park (B) 429 National Revival nature parks, see national parks & reserves Nesebâr (B) , 414 newspapers Romania 264 nightlife 25, see also individual locations Nikopolis-ad-Istrum (B) 376 northern Bulgaria 294, , 428 accommodation 427 climate 427 food 427 highlights 428, 428 history 429 travel seasons 427 northern Transylvania (R) O Odorheiu Secuiesc (R) opening hours Romania 263 Oradea (R) , 158 Orthodox Easter (B) 289 outdoor activities Bulgaria Romania P painting Bulgaria Romania 249 Palace of Parliament (R) 9, 35, 8-9, 25 palaces, see castles & palaces Păltiniş (R) Pamporovo (B) parks & gardens, see also national parks & reserves Alexandru Borza Botanic Gardens (R) 137 Borisova Gradina (B) Botanical Gardens (R) 187 Copou Park (R) 189 Cişmigiu Garden (R) 43 Herăstrău Park (R) 45 Maritime Park (Burgas) (B) 397 Primorski Park (B) 416 Sofia City Garden (B) 302 Sofia University Botanical Garden (B) 304 Tsar Simeon Garden (B) 341 passports Bulgaria 480-1, 482 Romania 266 Peștera (R) 98 phonecards Bulgaria 480 Romania 264 Piatra Neamţ (R) 194-8, 195 Pirin National Park (B) 16, 329, 330, 16, 287 Piteşti (R) 66-8 planning (Bulgaria) basics budget calender of events etiquette 285 internet resources 285 itineraries 291-2, 291, 292 regions travel seasons 284, planning (Romania) basics 22-3 budgeting 22-3 calendar of events 26-8 internet resources 23 itineraries 29-30, 29, 30 regions 31-2 safe travel 23 scams 23 travel seasons 22, 26-8 plants 461 Ploieşti (R) 62-5, 63 Plovdiv (B) 16, 293, , 340, 344, 16 accommodation 321, climate 321 drinking entertainment 350 events 346 festivals 346 food 321, highlights 322, 322 history 323, 339 nightlife shopping 350 sights 341-3, tourist information tours 343 travel seasons 321 travel to/from travel within 352 Poiana Braşov (R) 94-5 Poienile Izei (R) 180 politics Bulgaria Romania Pomorie (B)

10 503 population Bulgaria 445, Romania 230-1, postal services Romania 263 pottery 463 Prahova Valley (R) Praid (R) 124 Predeal (R) 83-5 Prejmer Fortified Church (R) 97 Preobrazhenski Monastery (B) Primorsko (B) 408 Prislop Pass (R) 182 public holidays Romania 256, 263 public transport Bulgaria Romania 270, 272 Putna Monastery (R) 206 R rabies Răchițele (R) 145 Rădăuţi (R) 208 radio Romania 264 Rarău Massif (R) , 209 Răşinari (R) 116 religion Bulgaria 286, 467 religious art 286, 462 Romania 231 reservations 273 Retezat Mountains (R) 134-6, 135 Rila Monastery (B) 10, 324-7, 10 Rila Mountains (B) 323-9, 324 Rila Village (B) rock climbing Bulgaria 287, 328, 457 Romania 246 Rodopi Mountains (B) Roman baths 417 Romania , 20-1 accessible travel 265 accommodation activities 26-8, arts ATMs 262 books 230, 233, 237, 238, 239, 242, budget 23 business hours 263 cell phones 22, 264 children, travelling with 259 climate 22, 26-8, 22 consulates 260 credit cards 262 culture currency 22 customs regulations 259 discount cards 259 drinks economics electricity 260 embassies 260 emergencies 23 etiquette 262 exchange rates 23 festivals & events 26-8 food 254-6, 261 gay travellers 260 GLBTI travellers 260 health highlights 6-18, 6-7, 8-16 history holidays 263 insurance 260, 261 internet resources 261 itineraries 29-30, 29, 30 language 22, 252, legal matters lesbian travellers 260 media 264 medical services 261 mobile phones 22, 264 money 22, 23, opening hours 263 passports 266 people politics population postal services 263 public holidays 263 safety 245 scams 22 smoking 264 telephone services 22, time 264 tipping 263 toilets 265 tourist information 265 tours 269 transport 22, travellers with disabilities 265 travel seasons 22, 22 travel to/from 23, travel within vacations 263 visas 22, 265 weather 22, 26-8 weights & measures 264 wildlife work 265 Romanian language 22, 252, Roman sites Hisar (B) 383 Nikopolis-ad-Istrum (B) 376 Roman Amphitheatre (B) 341 Roman Odeon (B) 345 Roman Theatre, Stara Zagora (B) 391 Stadium of Philippopolis (B) 342 Rose Festival (B) 289, 289 roses 388 Rozhen Monastery (B) 338 ruins, see also fortresses, Roman sites, tombs Ancient Serdica Complex (B) 298 Buzludzha Monument (B) Citadel, Odorheiu Secuiesc (R) 123 Citadel, Târgu Mureş (R) 127 Hisar Fortress (B) 380 Histria (R) 224 Medieval Fortress of Severin (R) 74 Roman Mosaic (R) 220 Ruins of Eumolpias (B) 342 Ruse (B) 433-8, Rusenski Lom Nature Park (B) , 439 S safety beaches 399 hiking 245 hitching 270, 487 Romania 245 salt baths 399 Salt Mine (R) 143 Sâmbăta (R) Săpânţa (R) 178 Sat-Şugatag (R) Saxon Land (R) , 99 scams Bulgaria 478, 487 Romania 22 sculpture Bulgaria Romania Seven Rila Lakes (B) 328 Sfântu Gheorghe (R) , Shipka (B) shopping, see also individual locations language 275-6, Shumen (B) 361-4, Sibiel (R) Sibiu (R) , 110 accommodation activities 112 drinking 114 entertainment events 112 festivals 112 food history 110 nightlife 114 shopping 115 sights tourist information 115 travel to/from 115 travel within 116 Sighetu Marmaţiei (R) 172-5, 174 Sighişoara (R) , 100, 17 accommodation activities 101 drinking events festivals food shopping 104 sights 99, 101 tourist information 104 tours 101 travel to/from 104 travel within 104 Silistra (B) Sinaia (R) 77, 80-2, 80 Sinemorets (B) skiing Bansko (B) Borovets (B) 327 Borşa Complex (R) 182 Bulgaria 286, 327, INDEX P-S

11 504 INDEX S-U skiing cont Chepelare (B) Malîovitsa (B) 328 Pamporovo (B) 355 Pirin Mountains (B) 16, 16 Poiana Braşov (R) 94 Predeal (R) 83 Romania Vitosha Nature Park (B) , 319 Sliven (B) 392-4, 393 smoking Romania 264 Smolyan (B) Snagov Lake (R) 58-9 snowboarding Bulgaria 286, Romania Sofia (B) , accommodation 296, activities 305 climate 296 drinking entertainment festivals & events 306 food 296, highlights 297, 297 history 298 itineraries 299 nightlife shopping sights 298-9, tourist information tours travel seasons 296 travel to/from travel within Sokolski Monastery (B) 379 Southern Mountains (B) 293, , 322 accommodation 321 climate 321 food 321 highlights 322, 322 history 323 travel seasons 321 southwest Transylvania (R) Sovata (R) Sozopol (B) 403-8, 404, 287 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 St Anastasia Island (B) 399 Stalin, Joseph 89 Stara Planina (B) 15, 381, 15 Stara Zagora (B) Ştefan cel Mare (Stephen the Great) 233 Stoker, Bram 147, Suceava (R) Suceviţa Monastery (R) 205 Sulina (R) Sunny Beach (Slânchev Bryag) 412 Surdeşti (R) 171 Sveta Sofia Church (B) 303 Sveti Ivan (B) 405 Sveti Konstantin (B) synagogues Bal Shem Tov Synagogue (R) 196 Choral Temple (R) 44 Gah Synagogue (R) 201 Great Synagogue, Bucharest (R) 44 Great Synagogue, Iaşi (R) 188 Neolog Synagogue (R) 162 Orthodox Synagogue, Oradea (R) 158 Orthodox Synagogue, Târgu Mureş (R) 127 Ploieşti Synagogue (R) 62 Sephardic Synagogue (R) Sofia Synagogue (B) Synagogue in the Fortress (R) 151 Zion Neolog Synagogue (R) Székely Land (R) T Ţara Chioarului (R) Târgovişte (R) 65-6 Târgu Jiu (R) 72 Târgu Mureş (R) 125-9, 126 Târgu Neamţ (R) taxis Bulgaria 487 Romania 272 telephone services Bulgaria 284, Romania 22, Ţepeş, Vlad 58, 69, 235, 237, thermal baths, see also mineral baths Strand Apollo (R) 161 Strand Felix (R) 161 Varna (B) 417 Thracian ruins 14, 386, 434, 14 tick-borne encephalitis 477 time Bulgaria 480 language 275, 491 Romania 264 Timișoara (R) 151-7, 152 accommodation 155 activities 154 drinking 156 entertainment events 154 festivals 154 food nightlife 156 shopping 157 sights 151, tourist information 157 tours 154 travel to/from 157 tipping Bulgaria 478 Romania 263 toilets Bulgaria 480 Romania 265 tombs Ostrusha Tomb (B) 390 Thracian Tomb of Kazanlâk (B) 386 Thracian Tomb of Sveshtari (B) 14, 434, 14 tourist information Bulgaria 480 Romania 265 tourist trains Bansko (B) 334 Carpathian Forest Steam Train (R) 181 Vaser Valley Forest Railway (R) 181 tours Bulgaria 484 Romania 269, 272 traditional crafts Bulgaria Romania 250 train travel to/from Bulgaria 483-4, to/from Romania within Bulgaria 488 within Romania 272 Transfăgărăşan Road (R) 16, 109, 16 Transilvania International Film Festival (R) 27, 139 transport Bulgaria 285 language 276-7, Romania 23, Transrarău Hwy (R) 210 Transylvania (R) 31, , 78-9 accommodation 76 climate 76 food 76 highlights 78-9, 78-9 history 77 travel seasons 76 travellers with disabilities Bulgaria 480 Romania 265 travel seasons Bulgaria 284, 284 Romania 22, 22 travel to/from Bulgaria 285, Romania 23, travel within Bulgaria Romania trekking, see hiking Troyan (B) Troyan Monastery (B) 383 Tryavna (B) Tsarevets Fortress (B) 365-6, 366 Tsarevo (B) ţuică (R) Tulcea (R) , 214 Turda (R) Turda Gorge (R) 144 Turkey, travel to/from 267, 350 U Ukraine, travel to/from 175 Unesco World Heritage Sites Bucovina monasteries (R) 10, 32, 204-9, 207, 11 Palace of Parliament (R) 9, 35, 8-9, 25 Rila Monastery (B) Sighişoara (R)

12 505 Thracian Tomb of Kazanlâk (B) 386 Thracian Tomb of Sveshtari (B) 14, 434, 14 wooden churches, Maramureş (R) 176 Untold Festival (R) 28, 139, 27 V vacations Romania 263 Vadu Izei (R) Vama Veche (R) Varna (B) , , 279 accommodation 420 activities drinking & nightlife 422 entertainment 422 festivals & events 420 food history 416 information 422 sights 417 travel to/from 423 travel within 423 Varna Summer International Music Festival (B) 290, 420 Vaser Valley (R) vegans 471 vegetarians 471 Veliko Târnovo (B) 12, 294, 368-9, 12 accommodation 359, activities climate 359 drinking entertainment 373 events 370 festivals 370 food 359, 372 highlights 360, 360 history 361, 365 nightlife shopping 373 sights tourist information 373 travel seasons 359 travel to/from travel within 374 Vidin (B) 433 vineyards, see wineries visas Bulgaria 284, Romania 22, 265 Viscri (R) 106 Vişeu de Sus Vişeu Valley (R) visual art Bulgaria Romania Vitosha Nature Park (B) , 319 volunteering 481 Voroneţ Monastery (R) Vratsa (B) W Wallachia (R) 31, accommodation 60 climate 60 food 60 highlights 61, 61 history 62 travel seasons 60 water parks water sports 424, 458 weather Bulgaria 284, Romania 22, 26-8 websites, see internet resources weights & measures Romania 264 Western Europe, travel to/ from 268 wildlife, see also individual species, animals bears 248, 461 Bulgaria pygmy cormorants 247 red-breasted geese 247 wolves 461 wildlife reserves Libearty Bear Sanctuary (R) 96-7 wildlife watching Bulgaria 458, 459 Danube Delta (R) 13, 13 Romania wine Bulgaria 12, 468-9, 13 Cotnari (R) 191 Melnik (B) 337 Romania 67, 256 wineries 67, 255, wolves 461 women in Romania 253 women travellers 481 woodcarving 378 wooden churches, Maramureş (R) 176 wooden gateways, Maramureş (R) 176 work Bulgaria 481 Romania 265 Y Yavorov, Peyo 306 Z Zărnesţi (R) 95-6 zoos Cozla Zoological Park (R) 196 Sofia Zoo (B) 312 Târgovişte Zoo (R) 65 Zoo Park, Varna (B) 416 INDEX U-Z

13 506 NOTES

14 507 NOTES

15 508 NOTES

16 509 NOTES

17 JUSTIN LONELY PLANET IN THE WILD Send your Lonely Planet in the Wild photos to We share the best on our Facebook page every week!

18 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 511 Map Legend Sights Beach Bird Sanctuary Buddhist Castle/Palace Christian Confucian Hindu Islamic Jain Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Ruin Shinto Sikh Taoist Winery/Vineyard Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Other Sight Activities, Courses & Tours Bodysurfing Diving Canoeing/Kayaking Course/Tour Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Skiing Snorkelling Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Activity Sleeping Eating Sleeping Camping Eating Drinking & Nightlife Drinking & Nightlife Cafe Entertainment Entertainment Shopping Shopping Information Bank Embassy/Consulate Hospital/Medical Internet Police Post Office Telephone Toilet Tourist Information Other Information Geographic Beach Gate Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall Population Capital (National) Capital (State/Province) City/Large Town Town/Village Transport Airport Border crossing Bus Cable car/funicular Cycling Ferry Metro station Monorail Parking Petrol station S-Bahn/Subway station Taxi T-bane/Tunnelbana station Train station/railway Tram Tube station U-Bahn/Underground station Other Transport Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book Routes Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed road Road under construction Plaza/Mall Steps Tunnel Pedestrian overpass Walking Tour Walking Tour detour Path/Walking Trail Boundaries International State/Province Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall Hydrography River, Creek Intermittent River Canal Water Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Reef Areas Airport/Runway Beach/Desert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Glacier Mudflat Park/Forest Sight (Building) Sportsground Swamp/Mangrove

19 OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end broke but inspired they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony s belief that a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse. OUR WRITERS Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Mark Baker Mark is a freelance travel writer with a penchant for offbeat stories and forgotten places. He s originally from the United States, but now makes his home in the Czech capital, Prague. He mainly writes travel guides on Eastern and Central Europe for Lonely Planet as well as several other leading travel publishers, but finds real satisfaction in digging up stories in places that are too remote or too quirky for the guides. He also contributes to publications such as the Wall Street Journal and National Geographic Traveler. Prior to becoming an author, he worked as a journalist for the Economist, Bloomberg News and Radio Free Europe, among other organisations. When he s not travelling, these days he s teaching Central European history and journalism at Anglo- American University in Prague or out riding his bike. He has a master s degree in International Affairs from Columbia University in New York. Steve Fallon A native of Boston, Massachusetts, Steve graduated from Georgetown University with a Bachelor of Science in modern languages. After working for several years for an American daily newspaper and earning a master s degree in journalism, his fascination with the new Asia led him to Hong Kong, where he lived for over a dozen years, working for a variety of media and running his own travel bookshop. Steve lived in Budapest for three years before moving to London in He has written or contributed to more than 100 Lonely Planet titles. Steve is a qualified London Blue Badge Tourist Guide. Anita Isalska Anita is a travel journalist, editor and copywriter whose work for Lonely Planet has taken her from Greek beach towns to Malaysian jungles, and plenty of places in between. After several merry years as an in-house editor and writer with a few of them in Lonely Planet s London office Anita now works freelance between the UK, Australia and any Balkan guesthouse with a good wi-fi connection. Anita writes about travel, food and culture for a host of websites and magazines. Read her stuff on Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN th edition Jul 2017 ISBN Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs as indicated Printed in China Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

20 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - Do the right thing with our content.