Through the landscape of miracles

Transcription

1 LANDSCAPE Through the landscape of miracles Kuks LENGTH 24 km DURATION 1 Day While most legends from Baroque times start with a miracle, Kuks story has apparently started with a little fraud. The landowner, Count Franz Anton von Sporck, has invited, toward the end of 1600 s a commission of scientists to inspect a group of springs in a picturesque valley in his dominion. The comission found their water healing. Modern chemical analysis of the water, however, have not confirmed any extraordinary properties. The local water s alleged miraculous healing properties were Sporck s mysti fication, but it has led to one of the most fascinating sets of baroque buildings and art in the world. Sporck engaged the best architects and sculptors and within record time, an elaborate spa resort has been built on both banks of the Labe river and in the adjacent forests. Despite the fact that only part of the original resort has been preserved, Kuks and its surroundings is definitely worth a trip. We promise you will find each step fascinating. Recommended Visit the unique Baroque pharmacy and find out about bizarre ingredients used in period remedies. Explore one of the best buildings designed by genius architect Alliprandi, the Holly Trinity Church. Visit Braun s Nativity, the largest Baroque open air sculpture CzechTourism 1

2 1. How to get to the starting point Take a train (change in Jaroměř when travelling from Prague), or a bus (change in Dvůr Králové or Hradec Králové) to Kuks. The village is about 600 m away from both the train and bus stop. If coming by car, use the provided parking. Start your tour in the centre of the village, where all guided and marked tours begin. Start 300 m 2. Hospital Kuks Hospital Kuks Ladislav Válek This large Baroque set of buildings was built between by Count Franz Anton von Sporck. The layout of the entire area, centred on the natural axis of the Labe/Elbe river, was planned down to the smallest detail. The left bank was intended for earthly pleasures Sporck built a magnificent chateau there, several spa buildings, a coaching inn and a monumental cascading staircase. The right bank was set aside for buildings dedicated to contemplation and public service a hospital with a church, a pharmacy and a herb garden. The hospital was originally used as refuge for war veterans, first from the vicinity, then from further away. It was used for this purpose all the way until The hospital residents used to perform light manual work in exchange for accommodation and board. They still had to keep to strict orders it was strictly prohibited, for example, to argue over who has killed more enemies in wars. Opening hours: April June: Tue Sun, 9 AM 5 PM July August: Mon Sun, 9 AM 5 PM September October: Tue Sun, 9 AM 5 PM 3. Church of the Holy Trinity Church of the Holy Trinity Michal Vitásek The centrepiece of the hospital s front facade, the Holy Trinity Church, was designed by renown Italian architect Giovanni Battista Alliprandi. Its crypt contains the Sporck family tomb, where Franz Anton von Sporck is also buried. A permanent light used to be placed by the crypt entrance, visible from the windows of he chateau on the opposite bank. 4. The Statues of Virtues and Vices The Statues of Virtues and Vices Ladislav Renner These impressive statues by Matthias Bernard Braun lining the hospital s terrace are the absolute pinnacle of baroque art. 24 allegoric women figures represent good and bad human treats in equal measure and refer to the balance and harmony sought by the baroque people. The original sculptures are now stored in the hospital s de pository, the copies outside have been made in the CzechTourism 2

3 5. Baroque Pharmacy Baroque Pharmacy Ladislav Renner The Pomegranate Pharmacy is the second oldest preserved pharmacy in the Czech Republic. Count Sporck had it built for both the hospital and the people from he surrounding areas, but he died before it opened. You can admire its Baroque interiors from late 18th century as part of the Czech pharmaceutical Museum the largest of its kind here. Its collection also presents a number of interesting period ingredients, including deer heart bone or mummy powder. Opening times Museum: April June, September and October: 9 AM 5 PM (daily except Mondays) July August: 9 AM 5 PM daily 300m 6. Rentz s Baroque Printing Museum Rentz s Baroque Printing Museum Miroslav-Podhrázský, archiv Revitalizace KUKS The former spa building on the opposite bank of the Elbe now houses a Museum dedicated to Sporck s court printer and copper plate engraver Michael Heinrich Rentz, one of the leading artists in these areas at the time. Thanks to Rentz, Sporck s library was known far beyond the Czech lands and after inspecting some of the exquisite prints, you will realise how much has been lost when most of the collection was destroyed by a flood in The museum also includes a performance hall, where theatre, music and historic baroque crafts are presented. Opening times: May September: Thu Sun, 11 AM PM April, October, November: Sat Sun, 11 AM 4 PM 70 m 7. The Statue of Goliath The Statue of Goliath Miroslav Podhrázský Even such genius as Matthias Bernard Braun had to deal with conflicting views of his patron occasionally. His Statue of Goliath originally depicted Herkomannus, protector of unscurpulous lawyers. It was holding a sword and an apple with a cross and its depiction read Iure Erui, or I have conquered by law. Count Sporck did not appreciate the irony, had the statue remade into Goliath and the ordered another, of David, from CzechTourism 3

4 350m 8. The Winery The slope above Sporck s former chateau now contains a winery, managed using traditional historical methods. There are no historical records of wine being grown there during Sporck s times. 400m 9. Tradesmen s Hou ses Wooden houses on the Western edge of the village were built at the same time as Sporck s Spa. They housed the servants and staff for spa guests butlers, bath attendants, cooks and other staff. Tradesmen s Hou ses Ondřej Šlambora, archiv Revitalizace KUKS 2 km 10. The Holy Trinity Chapel in Stanovice Continue along the Elbe river to a small sandstone chapel, built by 1720 by Matthias Bernard Braun. The Holy Trinity Chapel in Stanovice Miroslav Podhrázský 1 km 11. The 21st century Cavalry The 21st century Cavalry Ondřej Šlambora, archiv Revitalizace KUKS In 2008, a group of leading Czech sculptors decided to build on the tradition of Matthias Bernard Braun and created a group of 15 objects on a meadow below the Nativity, named 21st century Cavalry. The objects depict a journey of hope and suffering of the CzechTourism 4

5 650m 12. Braun s Na tivity Braun s Nativi ty Adéla Havelková Kuks surroundings are the largest open air sculpture gallery in Europe. When Count Sporck purchased, in 1717, a section of forest near his spas, he asked sculptor Matthias Bernard Braun to turn the sandstone rocks into artwork. The result is a world-unique open air gallery, consisting of a series of rock reliefs, as well as free-standing sculptures. Among the most impressive are the statues of hermits Juan Garin and Onuphrius, for which Braun has been called Michelangelo s he ir. A number of Braun s works in the area have been lost and many are damaged, but they continue to fascinate. In 2001, the Nativity was included in the list of 100 most endangered monuments in the world. Today, thanks to the painstaking work of restorers, we can enjoy the main relief free of moss and lichen again. Other sculptures will soon be restored too. The Nativity in on the waiting list to be added to the UNESCO World Heritage. Take the trail circuit named Půjdem spolu do Betléma/Let s go to Bethlehem, which follows the Elbe river and up forest paths around numerous Braun s works. Cyclists can stretch the trip by taking a pleasant forest path to the nearby Dvůr Králové nad Labem and eventually return to Kuks by train CzechTourism 5

6 Useful contacts Accommodation Penzion Za Vodou: Tel: , Address: Poděbradova 2014, Dvůr Králové nad Labem , GPS: , Hotel Safari: Tel: , safarilodge@zoodk.cz Address: Štefánikova 1029, Dvůr Králové nad Labem , GPS: , Nová Amerika Golf Resort, Kašov: Tel: , info@novagolf.cz, Address: Kašov 45, Kuks , GPS: , Restaurant tips Baroque: Tel: , taste@baroque.cz, Address: Kuks 57, Kuks , GPS: , Ve Dvoře: Tel: , vedvore@baroque.cz, Address: T. G. Masaryka 80, Dvůr Králové nad Labem , GPS: , Penzion Za Vodou: Tel: , recepce@penzionzavodou.cz, Address: Poděbradova 2014, Dvůr Králové nad Labem , GPS: CzechTourism 6