SIX OF THE BEST. All aboard!

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1 SIX OF THE BEST All aboard! The satisfaction that comes from walking from one place to another is unbeatable and what better way to enjoy the journey than riding one of Cumbria s vast array of ferries, heritage railways and vintage buses? Vivienne Crow sails, steams and motors her way around the county to enjoy six fabulous linear walks

2 1. SMARDALE FELL & GILL GRID REF : NY774087/: NY Cumbria Classic Coaches 1955 AEC Regent 3 in Ravenstonedale CUMBRIA CLASSIC COACHES, established in 1998, has a fleet of six vintage buses and coaches that can be spotted motoring slowly very slowly through the rolling hills of east Cumbria, County Durham and the Yorkshire Dales. Park up in Ravenstonedale in the Upper Eden Valley, catch the bus from outside the school and be prepared to be transported back in time. Hidden away in the limestone country between the Howgills and the North Pennines, Smardale Gill is home to a rich variety of often rare wildlife as well as fascinating industrial archaeology. With a beck slowly meandering between steep valley sides covered in wildflowers, its natural beauty is undeniable, but it s a man-made structure Smardale Gill Viaduct that gives it that wow! factor. From Kirkby Stephen s Market Square, walk south along the main road. Drawing level with the Co-op, turn right along Croft Street. GRID REF : NY443199/: NY ULLSWATER SHORE WHAT COULD BE lovelier than starting a walk with a boat trip across sparkling Ullswater, surrounded by some of England s highest mountains? Ullswater Steamers runs services around the Lake District s second largest lake year-round, stopping at Glenridding, Pooley Bridge, Howtown and, from this year, Aira Force. On Ullswater s southeastern shore, a popular path makes its way along the base of Hallin Fell and Place Fell. Initially gentle green slopes run down to the lake but the views become craggier and more dramatic with every step taken. For an impressive finale with even greater views, the route comes away from the well-trodden shore path and visits juniper-clad Silver Crag. Having caught the boat from Glenridding, disembark at Howtown and turn right at the end of the pier, towards Sandwick. Turn right along a rough lane, then go through a gate on the left. Climbing to a gate, turn right, soon walking above the lake. After crossing Sandwick Beck, turn left up the lane and take 2

3 On Smardale Fell SMARDALE FELL and GILL DISTANCE: 7.2 miles/11.6km CLIMB: 1273ft/388m : Kirkby Stephen Market Square (GR: NY774087) : Ravenstonedale School (GR: NY722041) MAPS: Harvey Maps 1:40,000 Coast to Coast West Long Distance ; Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer OL19, Howgill Fells SERVICE DETAILS: buses 572 to Barnard Castle (Wednesdays only) and 569 to Hawes (Tuesdays only) leave Ravenstonedale School for Kirkby Stephen at 10.23am. Contact , Go left at the next junction. Keep straight ahead when the road ends, along an alley, then a surfaced lane. Following Wainwright s Coast to Coast, take the track rising to Greenriggs. Beyond the farm, field paths and quiet lanes lead southwest on to Smardale Fell. Follow the wall on your right for 1,100 yards, then swing southwest. Just before Smardale Bridge, cross the stile on the right to access a broad path hugging the eastern side of Smardale Gill; cross the viaduct and follow the disused railway back along the western side. Immediately after going under a bridge, climb the embankment on the left and bear right to drop to a track close to Smardale Bridge. Follow Scandal Beck upstream via field paths, tracks and a riverside trail. On the edge of Ravenstonedale, turn left, right, and left again to return to the school. Get off the Hawes bus at Garsdale Head and walk back via windswept Wild Boar Fell, or, if the cloud s low, Lady Anne s Way on the eastern side of Mallerstang is another possibility. Silver Bay on Ullswater the path on the right immediately after Townhead Cottage, soon regaining the shore path. Emerging from the trees near Silver Bay, take the pitched path rising steeply on the left. To reach the top of Silver Crag, head up the slopes on the right at the top of the rise. Otherwise, keep straight on along the western slopes of Place Fell. Beyond the old quarry workings, drop to the cottages at Rooking. Turn right along the farm track and go left between the buildings at Side Farm. Turn right at the main road, then cross the grassy shore near St Patrick s Landing to reach Glenridding pier. Walk from Pooley Bridge to Howtown via the mysterious Bronze Age remains of Moor Divock before returning on the steamer. For a high-level alternative, get off at Howtown and walk to Glenridding along any one of Martindale s inviting ridges. ULLSWATER SHORE DISTANCE: 7 miles/11.3km CLIMB: 1246ft/380m : Howtown pier (GR: NY443199) : Glenridding pier (GR: NY390169) MAPS: Harvey Maps 1:25,000 XT25 Superwalker Lake District East; Harvey s 1:40,000 Lake District British Mountain Map; Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer OL5, The English Lakes, North-eastern area SERVICE DETAILS: , 3

4 3. CAT BELLS and DERWENT WATER SHORE Keswick Launch on Derwent Water THE KESWICK LAUNCH serves seven jetties on Derwent Water for most of the year, stopping only for a brief rest over Christmas and New Year. Boats can be caught from the landing stages near Keswick s Theatre By the Lake (you know the place, where all the ducks hang out). If you re getting on at one of the smaller jetties, make sure you stand at the end of the pier so the pilot can see you. Cat Bells (1,480ft/451m) can be climbed by catching the boat across from Keswick to Hawes End. In fact, given the difficulties of parking near Skelgill, particularly at this time of the year, it s the best way to reach the summit. It s extremely unlikely that you ll have the summit to yourself this one of Lakeland s most popular peaks for walkers of many ages and abilities but these are views that are made to be shared: Derwent Water, Skiddaw, Blencathra, the Newlands Valley, Causey Pike, Robinson Having alighted at Hawes End, walk up to the outdoor centre s access road. Turn right, then go left to climb to a road. Turn left; where a road goes off to the right, join the path that eventually climbs to the top of Cat Bells. Continue down the other side of the fell to the Hause Gate saddle. Descend left, reaching a minor road at Manesty. Turn right then, in about 275 yards (250m), take the path on the left. Head roughly northeast to reach a path just back from the lake shore. Go left. On reaching a narrow lane at The Warren, turn right. Bear left at a fork. Keep close to the lakeshore to reach High Brandelhow jetty and the boat back to Keswick. With seven jetties on Derwent Water, there are many linear possibilities. You could, for instance, pick and mix from the nine-mile (14km) circuit of the lake, hopping on and off the boat if the weather turns bad or you just fancy taking it easy. 4. RAVENGLASS to DALEGARTH The La al Ratty is a familiar sight and sound in Eskdale THE TINY STEAM trains of the Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway, known affectionately as La al Ratty, chug their way from the seaside village of Ravenglass to Dalegarth in beautiful Eskdale. Originally built to carry iron ore from the mine at Boot to the main railway line at Drigg, it was saved from oblivion in 1960 by the Ravenglass and Eskdale Preservation Society. The mournful whistle of the trains haunts the entire length of this walk: from the Irish Sea, through the colourful woods surrounding Muncaster Castle, along the top of Muncaster Fell (758ft/231m), and in and out of the trees and meadows beside the River Esk. From Ravenglass Station, head for the coast and turn left. Walk down the slipway at the southern end of the village, then pick up a clear track that passes back under the railway. Go right, along a narrow lane, soon passing the Roman Bath House. Go left at Walls and again at Newtown, later heading northeast across an open area to reach Dovecote Wood. Follow the only public right-of-way through the grounds of Muncaster Castle, then go left along the A595 for 330 yards (300m). Join Fell Lane on the right, climbing towards Muncaster Fell. When the clear track disappears, continue generally northeast along the fell. At the far end of the ridge, drop south to Muncaster Head. Go left along the farm driveway and left again at the road. Just before the bridge over 4

5 GRID REF : NY : NY Nearing the summit of Cat Bells CAT BELLS and DERWENT WATER DISTANCE: 3.6 miles/5.8km CLIMB: 1252ft/382m : Hawes End jetty (GR: NY251213) : High Bradelhow jetty (GR: NY251197) MAPS: Harvey Maps 1:25,000 Superwalker XT25 Lake District North; Harvey s 1:40,000 Lake District British Mountain Map; Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer OL4, The English Lakes, North-western area SERVICE DETAILS: , The summit of Harter Fell appears as the path rounds Silver Knott GRID REF : SD085964/: NY the Esk, take the bridleway on the right. Follow it upstream for 1.5 miles (2.5km). At a crossing of tracks near Dalegarth Hall, turn left. On reaching the road, turn right. Dalegarth Station, and the train back to Ravenglass, is on the left after 330 yards. This walk can be cut short by dropping to stations at Irton Road or The Green. Another option is to walk the southern base of Muncaster Fell rather than along the top of the ridge. RAVENGLASS to DALEGARTH DISTANCE: 8.5 miles/13.7km CLIMB: 1378ft/420m : Ravenglass Station (GR: SD085964) : Dalegarth Station, near Boot (GR: NY173007) MAPS: Harvey Maps 1:25,000 Superwalker XT25Lake District West (partial); Harvey s 1:40,000 Lake District British Mountain Map; Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer OL6, The English Lakes, South-western area SERVICE DETAILS: , 5

6 5. WINDERMERE SHORE PUBLIC PATHS ALONG Windermere s eastern shore are few and far between, so the best way to see the lake and enjoy a waterside walk is to buy a walkers ticket. Available from April to November, it allows walkers to catch a small boat from Ambleside to Wray Castle, then walk along the western shore to Ferry House and catch the Cross Lakes Shuttle to Bowness-on-Windermere, from where you can catch the boat back to Ambleside. The walk itself couldn t be more straightforward: having alighted at Wray Castle, head south then keep the lake on your left all the way. There are a couple of occasions when the route sometimes a path, sometimes a surfaced lane is some way back from the water s edge but it s hard to go wrong. The only thing to watch out for is a gate on the left just before the B5285. Go through this to continue along the shore path, then go left at the road to reach Ferry House. Instead of sticking to the shore path, climb to the summit of Latterbarrow for magnificent fell views, then head south, following any combination of the many tracks and trails that cross Claife Heights. GRID REF : SD : SD CONISTON WATER SHORE THE CONISTON LAUNCH operates three services covering the entire length of the Lake District s third biggest lake and you ll get commentary thrown in too. Cruise the lake, find out more about Donald Campbell s ill-fated attempt to break the world water speed record in 1967 and have a peep at the secret harbour on Peel Island, made famous as Wild Cat Island in Arthur Ransome s Swallows and Amazons. Alternatively, take a short hop on the boat and then walk Catch the boat from Coniston pier to Sunny Bank jetty, then turn right: it s almost as simple as that. The lakeside path weaves its way in and out of gorgeous woodland at first. As you draw level with Brantwood on the opposite shore, the route goes through a gate to join a broad, fenced track. This takes you away from the water s edge, later passing Coniston Hall. After passing between two stone farm buildings, turn right along a gravel path. This ends close to some single-storey buildings. Go through the double gates and turn sharp right. Go left between the buildings and A launch on Coniston Water, above and, right, Sunny Bank jetty 6

7 It s hard to go wrong as you stroll from Wray Castle to Ferry House GRID REF : NY : SD WINDERMERE SHORE DISTANCE: 4.2 miles/6.8km CLIMB: 270ft/82m : Wray Castle jetty (GR: NY376012) : Ferry House (GR: SD390957) MAPS:Harvey Maps 1:25,000 Superwalker XT25 Lake District East; Harvey s 1:40,000 Lake District British Mountain Map; Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer OL7, The English Lakes, South-eastern area SERVICE DETAILS: Windermere Lake Cruises operates a number of services on England s longest lake, serving Bowness, Ambleside (Waterhead), Brockhole, Wray Castle and Lakeside , The lightly wooded western shores of Coniston Water immediately bear right to pick up a clear footpath. Turn right along the lane and follow it back to the pier. Consider a visit to Beacon Tarn before setting out on the lakeshore path. And, if you re really in a tarn-bagging mood, there s Kelly Hall Tarn and Long Moss on Torver Back Common CONISTON WATER SHORE DISTANCE: 3.4 miles/5.5km CLIMB: 100ft/31m : Sunny Bank jetty (GR: SD292928) : Coniston pier (GR: SD308969) MAPS:Harvey Maps 1:25,000 Superwalker XT25 Lake District South East; Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer OL6, The English Lakes, South-western area SERVICE DETAILS: , 7

8 Lakeland walk er SIX INSPIRATIONAL ROUTE AND FEATURE-PACKED ISSUES EVERY YEAR! 20 years of devotion to walking in the Lake District Enter our anniversary photography competition, celebrating the very best of the spectacular Lake District landscape In association with Details in the new Lakeland walker

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