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1 /AE//Gams Arts Festival 21 4WD trips, see off-road driving A abseiling 173 accommodation, see also individual locations Botswana Namibia activities, see also individual activities -6 Namibia Victoria Falls adventure sports 10, 17, African buffaloes 192, 193 African fish eagles 198 African wild dogs 147 Afrikaans language Aha Hills 113, 114 air travel, see also scenic flights Botswana 164, 167 Namibia 354-5, 357 Victoria Falls 181, 186 amoebic dysentery 366 animals , , see also birds, wildlife, individual species attack by 33 Botswana conservation organisations 259 endangered species 147, 340 Namibia architecture 19 Botswana Namibia 275, 336 Arnhem Cave arts & crafts, see also individual arts Botswana Namibia ATMs Botswana Aus Map pages 000 Photo pages Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd B B&Bs 344 baboons 190, 190 Bakalanga people 137 barchan dunes 273, 296 basket weaving 141 Baster people 332 Basubiya & Wayeyi people 137 bat-eared foxes 196, 196 bateleurs 198, 198 Battle of Waterberg 324 Bechuanaland Democratic Party (BDP) 134 beer Botswana 144 Namibia Bethanie 304 bicycle travel, see cycling bilharzia (schistosomiasis) 365 birds , , see also individual species Botswana Namibia 281, 287, 340 birdwatching 16, 148, 173, 287 black-footed cats 188 boat cruises, see also canoeing, mokoro trips, rafting Botswana 156 Victoria Falls 174 Boers Bogenfels Sea Arch books, see also literature architecture 275 Botswana 132, 142, 143 children, travel with 157 field guides 146 health 363 language 368 Namibia 291, plants 148 border crossings Botswana Namibia 83, 109, 117, 165, 250, 252, 355 Botswana South Africa 56, 62, 166 Botswana Zambia 83 Botswana Zim babwe 83 Namibia Angola 246, 355 Namibia South Africa 320 Namibia Zambia 252, 355 Namibia Zim babwe 355 Botswana , 48-9 accommodation activities arts & crafts books 132, 142, 143 budgeting 14 climate 46 culture DVDs 108 economy 130 environment etiquette 138 food & drinks 144, 158 highlights 48-9 history internet resources 15 national parks & reserves 18, people population 137 religion telephone 162 travel to/from Botswana travel within Botswana travel seasons 14, 46, 74 wildlife women in 140 Botswana regions Chobe National Park 9, 39, 75-88, 76, 9 eastern Botswana 39, 59-68, 60 Gaborone 38, 47-57, 50, 53, 57 Kalahari 40, , 145, 118 Kasane 39, 75-88, 78-9 northeastern Botswana northwestern Botswana , 112 Okavango Delta 8, 40, , 145, 90 Brandberg British colonisation, Botswana Brukkaros budgeting 14 buffalo fence 149 Buitepos 225 bungee jumping & swings 173 bus travel Botswana 165-6, 167 Namibia 355-6, 357 Victoria Falls 181, 182, 186 bushbabies (lesser galagos) 190, 191 bushwalking, see hiking business hours Botswana Namibia 347 Bwabwata National Park , 250 C camel riding 279 camping 13, 34-5 Botswana Namibia 344 canoeing, see also mokoro trips Namibia 346 Victoria Falls 173 Cape Cross Seal Reserve Cape fur seals 196, 271,

2 384 INDEX C - G Cape gannets 200, 201 Caprivi Strip , 249 Caprivian people 330 car hire Botswana 168 Namibia 358 South Africa 36 Victoria Falls 182 car travel 15, 34-5 Botswana 73, 165, 166, Namibia 356, caracals 188, 188 cell phones 15 Namibia Central Kalahari Game Reserve 12, 120-4, 120, 12 central Namibia 41, Chacma baboons 190, 190 children, travel with Botswana Namibia 347 cheetahs 188, 188 Chobe National Park 9, 39, 75-88, 76, 9 Chobe Riverfront 81-4, 82 cholera 363 Christuskirche, Windhoek 205, 25 cinema 335 climate 14 Botswana 46 Namibia 204 coloured people combi travel Botswana 165-6, 167 Namibia 355-6, 357 Victoria Falls 181, 182, 186 conservation organisations 259 consulates Botswana 158 Namibia 348 costs 14 crafts, see arts & crafts credit cards Botswana 160 culture Botswana Namibia currency 14, see also money Botswana 160 customs regulations Botswana 157 Namibia Map pages 000 Photo pages cycling Botswana 167 Namibia 222, 357 D Daan Viljoen Game Park 211 Damara language people 330 Damara terns 281 Damaraland dance Botswana 141 Namibia 336 dangers, see safety dengue fever 363 desert hiking 28 deserts 18, see also individual locations diamonds 135, diarrhoea difaqane 132 disabilities, travellers with Botswana 163 Namibia 353 Ditshwanelo Human Rights Film Festival 20 D kar Domboshaba Festival of Culture & History 21 Dordabis 301 Dorob National Park drinks, see also wine Botswana 144 Namibia driving, see car travel driving licences Botswana 168 Namibia 357 dunes, see sand dunes Duwisib Castle E eastern Botswana 39, 59-68, 60 economy Botswana 130 Namibia 321, electricity 345 elephants 146, 194, 194, 202 Elim Dune 298 embassies Botswana 158 Namibia 348 endangered species Botswana 147 Namibia 340 environment Botswana Namibia Epupa Falls 268 Erongo Mountains etiquette Botswana 138 Namibia 332, 335 Etosha National Park 6, , 238, 6 Etsha villages 111 events 20-1 exchange rates Botswana 160 exchanging money Botswana 159, 160 F farmstays 345 ferry travel 167 festivals 20-1 field guides 146 filariasis 363 films 335 fish 340 Fish River Canyon 8, , 316, 8 Fish River Canyon Hiking Route 318 fishing 346 Botswana 156 Victoria Falls flamingos 200, 287, 201 fly-in safaris 16 food Botswana 144, 158 Namibia 337-8, 348 Francistown 64-6, 65 G Gabane 58 Gaborone 38, 47-57, 50, 53, 57 accommodation 51-2 border crossings 56 drinking 54 entertainment 54 festivals & events 51 food 52-4 history 47 internet access 55 medical services 55 money 55 post 55 safety 55 shopping 54-5 sights tourist information 55-6 tours 51 travel to/from 56 travel within 56-7

3 385 game, see wildlife game reserves, see national parks & reserves gay travellers Botswana 158 Namibia 348 Gcwihaba (Drotsky s) Cave , 114 gems 220, see also diamonds gemsboks 192, 193 geography Botswana Namibia 338 German language Ghanzi giardiasis 366 giraffes 194, 187 Gobabis Gondwana Cañon Park Grootfontein 234-5, 234 Grünau guest farms 345 Gweta H hamerkops 200 Hardap Dam Game Reserve 302 hartebeests 192, 192 health books 363 insurance 362 traditional medicine 367 vaccinations 362 websites 363, 365 heat exhaustion 366 heatstroke 366 Helmeringhausen 305 hepatitis A 363 hepatitis B 364 Herero language Herero people Botswana 13, 137, 13 Namibia hiking 19 Botswana Namibia 318, 346 safaris 36 Himba language Himba people Botswana 13, 13 Namibia hippopotamuses 195 history, Botswana Bechuanaland Democratic Party (BDP) 134 Boers books 132 British colonisation difaqane 132 early settlement 131 first Boer war 133 independence 134 Khama, Seretse 134 Mzilikazi 132 Rhodes, Cecil John 133 Segkoma I (king) 132 Shaka 132 Tswana people history, Namibia Battle of Waterberg 324 early settlement 322 European exploration German colonisation 323 independence Nujoma, Samuel Daniel Shafiishuna 325 Pohamba, Hifikepunye 326 post-independence 326 South African occupation Swapo 325 hitchhiking Botswana Namibia 359 HIV/AIDS 364 Botswana 136 Namibia 321, 331 holidays Botswana 161 horse riding Botswana 156 Namibia 279 Victoria Falls 174 hostels 345 hotels House of Chiefs 139 hunting Botswana 150 Namibia 340 hunting dogs 196, 197 hyenas 196 I immigration Botswana 164 Namibia 354 impala 192, 192 Impalilia Island independence Botswana 134 Namibia Independence Day, Namibia 20 insects & spiders 147, 339 bites & stings insurance health 362 travel 158-9, 349 vehicle 168-9, 358 internet access Botswana 159 Namibia 349 internet resources, see websites itineraries 22-7 J jackass penguins 200 jetboating 174 K Kalahari 40, , 145, 118 Kalahari Conservation Society 125 Kalahari Gemsbok National Park Kalahari truffles 284 Kalkfeld Kamanjab 264 Kang Kanye 59 Kaokoveld Kasane 39, 75-81, 78-9 accommodation 77-9 activities 77 food internet access 81 money 81 shopping 80-1 sights 75-7 tourist information 81 travel to/from 81 travel within 81 Katima Mulilo Kavango people 328 Kavango region kayaking, see canoeing, mokoro trips Keetmanshoop 303 Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park , 126 Khama, Ian 134 Khama, Seretse 134 Khama Rhino Sanctuary 62-3 Khaudum National Park Khutse Game Reserve kokerboom 219 Kolmanskop Ghost Town 313!Kung San language 374 Kuru Dance Festival 21 L Lake Ngami 111 Lake Otjikoto 237 land reform 327 INDEX G - L

4 386 INDEX L- N landscapes 17 languages 15, Afrikaans Damara German Herero Himba 373-4!Kung San 374 Lozi Nama Owambo Setswana lappet-faced vultures 198, 199 legal matters 349 leopards 188, 189 lesbian travellers Botswana 158 Namibia 348 lesser flamingos 200, 201 lesser galagos (bushbabies) 190, 191 lichen 262, 282 lilac-breasted rollers 200, 200 Linyanti Marshes 86-8 lions 145-6, 188, 189 literature, see also books Botswana Namibia Livingstone , 178 accommodation food & drinking 180 shopping 180 sights & activities travel to/from 181 Livingstone, David 177 lodges Lozi language Lüderitz 9, , 9 accommodation food & drinking 312 money 312 sights 308 tours 309 tourist information 312 travel to/from 312 M Maherero Day 21 Maitisong Festival 20, 51 Makgadikgadi Pans & Nxai Pans 39, 68-75, Map pages 000 Photo pages Makgadikgadi Pans National Park 12, 74, 12 malaria 364 Maltahöhe 305 Mamili National Park 253-4, 254 mammals Manyana 58 maps Botswana 159 Namibia 349 Mariental 302 Matlapangeng 93, 97 Matsieng Rock Carvings 57-8 Maun , 94 accommodation 93-6 drinking 96-8 food 93-5 internet access 98 money 98-9 post 99 security 98 shopping 98 sights 88 tour operators tourist information 99 travel to/from travel within 100 Maun Festival 20 Mbapira/Enjando Street Festival 20 Mbukushu people 138 McCall Smith, Alexander 143 measures medical services 363 meerkats 196, 19, 197 Messum Crater 262 meteorites 303 minerals 235, 321 minibus travel, see combi travel mobile phones 15 Namibia Mochudi 58 Mokolodi Nature Reserve 59 mokoro trips 96, 99, 110, 156 money 14, 15, see also currency Botswana 157, Namibia 348, Moremi Game Reserve 103-8, 104 motorcycle travel, see also quad biking Botswana 165, 166 Namibia 356, 359 mountain zebras 194, 195 Mpalila (Impalilia) Island Mudumu National Park 253 museums National Art Gallery, Namibia 211 National Museum & Art Gallery of Botswana 47 National Museum of Namibia 209 music Botswana 143 Namibia 336 Mzilikazi 132 N Nama language people 330 Namib-Naukluft Park , 292 Namibia accommodation activities arts & crafts books 291, budgeting 14 climate 204 culture economy 321, environment etiquette 332, 335 food & drink 337-8, 348 highlights history internet resources 15 national parks & reserves 18, people religion 333 telephone transport 354 travel seasons 14, 204 wildlife women in 333 Namibia regions central Namibia 41, north-central Namibia northern Namibia 41, northwestern Namibia southern Namibia 41, Windhoek 40, , 208, Namibia Wildlife Resorts (NWR) 342 Namibians of European descent 330 Namibrand Nature Reserve 300!Nara melons 297 Nata 68-9 Nata Bird Sanctuary 68-9 National Art Gallery, Namibia 211 National Museum & Art Gallery of Botswana 47 National Museum of Namibia 209

5 387 national parks & reserves, Botswana 18, booking Central Kalahari Game Reserve 12, 120-4, 120, 12 Chobe National Park 9, 39, 75-88, 76, 9 Gaborone Game Reserve 47 Kalahari Gemsbok National Park Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park , 126 Khutse Game Reserve Makgadikgadi Pans National Park 12, 74, 12 Mokolodi Nature Reserve 59 Moremi Game Reserve 103-8, 104 Northern Tuli Game Reserve 66 Nxai Pans National Park 74-5 national parks & reserves, Namibia 18, booking 342 Daan Viljoen Game Park 211 Dorob National Park Etosha National Park 6, , 238, 6 Gondwana Cañon Park Hardap Dam Game Reserve 302 Khaudum National Park Mudumu National Park 253 Namib-Naukluft Park Namibrand Nature Reserve 300 Sperrgebiet National Park national parks & reserves, Victoria Falls Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park 176 Victoria Falls National Park 183, Zambezi National Park 183 Naukluft Mountains 293-6, 295, 30 Naute Dam newspapers No.1 Ladies Detective Agency 143 Nogatsaa/Tchinga Area 84 Noordoewer north-central Namibia northern Namibia 41, northeastern Botswana northwestern Botswana 111-6, 112 northwestern Namibia Ntwetwe Pan 72-4 Nujoma, Samuel Daniel Shafiishuna 325 Nxai Pans National Park 74-5 O off-road driving 18, 34-5 Namibia 266, 294, 346 Okahandja 225-6, 225 Okavango Delta 8, 40, , 145, 90 Eastern Delta Inner Delta lodge accommodation 103 regions 89 Shorobe 100 Okavango Panhandle Okavango Polers Trust 110 Oktoberfest 21 Omaruru Ondangwa Oodi 58 opening hours Botswana Namibia 347 Opuwo Orange Youth Cup 21 Oshakati 244 ostriches 200, 200 Otjiwarongo Otjozondjupa 254-8, 256 Otse 59 Outjo 230 Owambo language people 328 P Palapye 60-1 pale chanting goshawks 198, 199 Palmwag passports Botswana 164 Namibia 354 penguins 200 people of Botswana Bakalanga 137 Basubiya & Wayeyi 137 Herero 13, 137, 13 Mbukushu 138 San 10, 123, 138-9, 10 Tswana 131-2, people of Namibia Baster 332 Caprivian 330 coloured Damara 330 Herero/Himba Kavango 328 Nama 330 Namibians of European descent 330 Owambo 328 San Topnaar 331 Tswana 332 phone codes, 353 phonecards Namibia 353 photography 161, 350 Pieters, Sid 220 planning 14-15, see also individual countries, regions Botswana s basics Botswana s regions Botswana s travel seasons 14, 46, 74 budgeting 14 calendar of events 20 children, travel with 156-7, 347 itineraries 22-7 Namibia s basics Namibia s regions Namibia s travel seasons 14, 204 travel seasons 14, 173 websites 15, 161, 363, 365 plants 148, 341 euphorbia welwitschias 282 poaching Pohamba, Hifikepunye 326 Pondoks 260, 261 postal services Botswana 161 President s Day 21 primates public holidays Botswana 161 Q quad biking Botswana 156 Victoria Falls 174 R rabies 365 radio rafting Namibia 346 Victoria Falls 174 Red Line 233 Rehoboth 302 religion Botswana Namibia 333 reptiles Botswana 147 Namibia 339 reserves, see national parks & reserves INDEX N - R

6 388 INDEX R-V rhinoceroses 62-3, 146-7, 194, 194 Rhodes, Cecil John 133 road safety 34-5, 162, 358 rock art 9, 16 rock climbing 346 Rössing Mine 280 Ruacana Rundu 246-7, 247 S safari lodges, see lodges safaris fly-in safaris 33 horseriding safaris 36 local tour operators 36-7 mobile safaris 33-4 overland safaris 34-5 planning 29 self-drive safaris 35-6 walking & hiking safaris 36 safety Botswana hitchhiking , 359 road 34-5, 162, 358 wildlife 33 San people, Botswana 10, 123, 138-9, 10 crafts 141 rock art 9, 16 San people, Namibia 257, Ju/ hoansi San 255 Living Museum 228 sand dunes Dune Dune Elim Dune 298 Namib dunes 296 Sossusvlei 297 sandboarding 277, 346 Savuti 84-6 scams 351 scenic flights Botswana 93, 156 Namibia Victoria Falls schistosomiasis (bilharzia) 365 secretary birds 198 Seeheim 304 Segkoma I (king) 132 Serowe 61-2 Sesfontein 265 Sesriem 297-9, Map pages 000 Photo pages Setswana language Shaka 132 shipwrecks 272 shopping 352 Skeleton Coast 11, , 11 Skeleton Coast Park Skeleton Coast Wilderness Area 273 skydiving 278 snake bites 367 snakes Botswana 147 Namibia 339 Solitaire Sossusvlei 6, 297-9, 298, 2, 7 southern Namibia 41, South-West African People s Organisation (Swapo) 325 Sowa Pan 71-2 Sperrgebiet National Park spiders 147, see insects & spiders Spitzkoppe and Pondoks 260, 261 spotted hyenas 196 steam trains 175 Swakopmund 11, , 276, 11 accommodation activities drinking 285 emergency 285 entertainment 285 food internet access 285 medical services 285 money 285 post 285 safety 285 shopping 285 sights tourist information 285 tours travel to/from 286 Swartbooi s Drift swings, see bungee jumping & swings T taxis Botswana 170 Victoria Falls 182, 186 telephone codes, 353 telephone services 15 Namibia Thamaga 58-9 theft time -3 Namibia 353 tipping Botswana 160 Tjilenje (Ngwao Boswa) Cultural Festival 20 Topnaar people 331 tourist information Botswana 163 Namibia 353 Victoria Falls 175 tours, see safaris traditional medicine 367 train travel Botswana 170 Namibia travel to/from Botswana travel to/from Namibia travel within Botswana travel within Namibia travellers cheques Botswana 160 trekking, see hiking Trekkopje Military Cemetery 280 tribal groups, see people Tsodilo Hills , 116 Tsumeb 235-7, 236 Tsumkwe Tswana people Botswana 131-2, Namibia 332 Tswapong Hills 63-4 tuberculosis 365 Tuli Block 66-8 TV Twyfelfontein typhoid 365 U Uis 228 Uutapi (Ombalantu) V vacations Botswana 161 vaccinations 362 vervet monkeys 190, 190 Victoria Falls 11, , 172, 11 accommodation 171 activities climate 171

7 389 food 171 tourist information 175 travel seasons 171, 173 travel to/from 174, 181 visas 176 Zambia Zimbabwe Victoria Falls National Park 183, Victoria Falls (town) 182-6, 182 accommodation drinking 185 food shopping sights & activities 183 travel to/from 186 visas 15 Botswana 163 Namibia 353 visual arts volunteering Botswana Namibia vultures 198, 199 W walking & hiking safaris 36, see also hiking Walvis Bay , 288 water, drinking 367 Waterberg Plateau Park 231-4, 231 Waterberg Plateau Unguided Hiking Trail 231, 232 Wayeyi people 137 weather, see climate weaving 58 websites 15 health 363, 365 travel 161 weights welwitschias 282 Wild Cinema Festival 20 wild dogs 28 wild horses 307 wildcats 188 wildebeest 192 wildlife , see also birds, plants, individual species attack by 33 Botswana conservation organisations 259 endangered species 147, 340 hunting 150, 340 Namibia poaching tracking 32 wildlife watching 17, see also safaris Botswana 46, 62-3 Namibia 204 Victoria Falls 175 Windhoek 40, , 208, accommodation drinking 217 emergency 221 entertainment festivals & events food internet access 221 Katutura 214 medical services 221 money 221 post 221 safety 221 shopping 220 sights telephone 221 tourist information 221 travel agencies 221 travel to/from travel within 213, 223 Windhoek Karnival (WIKA) 20 Windhoek Show 21 wine 227, 338 women in Botswana 140 Namibia 333 women travellers Botswana 164 Namibia 354 Y yellow fever 365 Z Zambezi National Park 183 zebras 194, 195 ziplines 175 Zyl, Hendrik Matthys van 119 INDEX V-Z

8 381 SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Dario Balboni, Jill Brinkman, Benjamin Burghart, James Carnegie, Lucy Chadwick, Nichola Cottis, Katy Eager, Hugo & Marieke Erken, Patricia Escher, Jacqui Fenwick, Joanne Hayes, Gisele Netto, Robert Newman, Tobias Schmidt Slordahl, Jan Skoglund, Astrid Stehouwer & Caspar Gooren, Zilke T jonck, Regula Ziegler. AUTHOR THANKS Alan Murphy A big thanks to my travel companion and friend Smitzy for his patience, advice and adventurous spirit (and for not getting further traffic infringements). Also I tip my hat to Anthony, my coauthor, for his professionalism. In Namibia there are too many to thank but special mention to Almuth Styles in Swakopmund whose assistance was much appreciated. And to the honorary consul in Windhoek for making me legal again after all my ID was stolen. To my gorgeous wife, Alison, who married me just before this research trip, you are my strength and my home. Anthony Ham Andy Raggett of Drive Botswana was an invaluable source of information at all stages of the journey. Thanks also to Mike Romeo of Explorer Safaris in Johannesburg, Will Gourlay for sending me here and Alan Murphy for coordinating the book with wisdom. Thanks also to Glyn Maude, Keitumetse Ngaka, Olefile Sebogiso, Nick Jacobsen, Monika Schiess and to Jan and Cleo in Khutse. Special thanks to Jan and Ron for their joyful spirit and utter integrity. To my three girls Marina, Carlota and Valentina: Os quiero con todo mi corazon. Trent Holden & Kate Morgan There are some HUGE thank yous to give out for the help we received while researching. First up thanks to Joy in Vic Falls and Kim in Livingstone for all your assistance in getting some of the nitty gritty stuff down pat. Thanks to the Seremwe brothers, James and George, for all their guidance and assistance, Sally Wynn for her unparalleled knowledge of Kariba and around, Choice Mushunje from Zimbabwe Parks, Gordon Adams, Ann Bruce and Jane High from the east, and Val from Bulawayo. Thanks also to all the travellers we met, including John and Linda Hutton for all the suggestions. Finally, huge thanks to the production team, particularly Will Gourlay, Glenn van der Knijff and coordinating author Alan Murphy.

9 382 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate Map Data Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) Updated World Map of the Köppen- Geiger Climate Classification, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, Cover photograph: Gemsbok walking over sand dunes in the Naukluft National Park, Namibia, Frans Lanting / Corbis. BEHIND THE scenes This Book This 3rd edition of Lonely Planet s Botswana & Namibia guidebook was researched and written by Alan Murphy, Anthony Ham, Trent Holden and Kate Morgan, and David Lukas wrote the text that formed the basis of the Wildlife section. The previous edition was written by Matthew D Firestone, Adam Karlin and Nicola Simmonds, with contributions from David Lukas and Mara Vorhees. The 1st edition was written by Paula Hardy and Matthew D Firestone, with contributions from Dr Caroline Evans, Ian Ketcheson, Fiona Watson and Elizabeth Bovair. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet s Melbourne office, and produced by the following: Commissioning Editors William Gourlay, Glenn van der Knijff Coordinating Editor Tracy Whitmey Coordinating Cartographer Andrew Smith Coordinating Layout Designer Carol Jackson Managing Editors Brigitte Ellemor, Martine Power Managing Cartographers Alison Lyall, Adrian Persoglia Managing Layout Designer Chris Girdler Assisting Editors Janet Austin, Andrew Bain, Janice Bird, Kate James, Charlotte Orr Cover & Internal Image Research Kylie McLaughlin Language Content Branislava Vladisavljevic Thanks to Dan Austin, Imogen Bannister, Yvonne Bischofberger, Frank Deim, Brendan Dempsey, Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, James Hardy, Jane Hart, Genesys India, Jouve India, Asha Ioculari, Anne Mason, Annelies Mertens, Trent Paton, Kirsten Rawlings, Raphael Richards, Averil Robertson, Gerard Walker, Jeanette Wall, Wendy Wright.

10 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - Do the right thing with our content.

Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. Behind the Scenes

Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 399 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team