Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. Behind the Scenes

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1 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 249 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Clive & Sheila Robinson, Jenny & David Thomas, Lelena Pierce, Remo Klinger, Tiago Raimundo AUTHOR THANKS Paul Harding Thanks to Hannah and Layla for accompanying me to Goa and putting up with my absence while in Kerala. Cheers to Joe for entrusting me with such a great part of India. In India, thanks to all who offered advice and company but especially to all the new friends I met in Goa and mostly to the old friends I already knew you all know who you are! Abigail Blasi Thank you Joe Bindloss and Sarina Singh, DE and CA supreme, and to my wonderful co- -authors. Thanks in Delhi to Sarah Fotheringham, to Nicolas Thompson and Danish Abbas, to Dilliwala Mayank Austen Soofi, to Rajinder and Surinder Budhraja, to Nirinjan and Jyoti Desai, my Delhi family, and to Luca for holding the fort. Trent Holden Thanks first up to Joe Bindloss for giving me the opportunity again to work again on India a seriously dream gig. As well as to my coauthors, especially Sarina for all the help and tips along the way. A shout out to all the good folk I met along the road and shared a beer with. But as always my biggest thanks goes to my beautiful girlfriend Kate, and my family and friends who I all miss back home in Melbourne. Iain Stewart It was great to hang with Laksh in Bandra and have a virtual beer with Paul Harding by the sea. Thanks to the good folk at the MTDC all over the state, particularly Mr Shaker and Mrs Singh in Mumbai. I m also very grateful to Aditya in Nagpur and Tadoba, Maria in Matheran and the merry musicians of Kolhapur. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, Cover photograph:anjuna Beach, Goa/ Kimberley Coole/Getty

2 250 BEHIND THE SCENES THIS BOOK This 7th edition of Lonely Planet s Goa & Mumbai guidebook was researched and written by Paul Harding, Abigail Blasi, Trent Holden and Iain Stewart. This guidebook was produced by the following: Destination Editor Joe Bindloss Product Editors Kate Mathews, Alison Ridgway Book Designer Clara Monitto Assisting Editors Imogen Bannister, Kate Chapman, Kate Evans, Samantha Forge, Paul Harding, Gabrielle Innes, Katie O Connell, Lauren O Connell, Kathryn Rowan, Saralinda Turner Cover Researcher Naomi Parker Thanks to Lonely Planet Cartography, Ellie Simpson

3 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 251 Index A accommodation 78, 226-7, see also individual locations activities 29-32, see also individual activities air travel Aldona 157 Altinho Hill 83 altitude sickness amoebic dysentery 241 Anegundi animals , see also individual species, birdwatching, dolphinspotting, wildlife watching, Anjuna , 136 accommodation activities 135 drinking & nightlife food information 140 shopping 140 travel to/from 140 Anjuna Market 10, 138, 10 antiques 214 Arambol (Harmal) architecture 17, 216 area codes 15 Arossim art galleries, see museums & galleries arts , see also individual arts Assagao 141 Assolna 180 Aswen ATMs 229 autorickshaws 15, ayurveda Calangute 127 Mandrem 152 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 B Baga , 128 accommodation activities drinking & nightlife 133 food information 134 shopping travel to/from Banganga Festival 18 bargaining 214 Basilica of Bom Jesus 96 beach huts 28 beaches 26-8 bears 117 Benaulim 176-9, 177 Betalbatim 174 Betul 180 Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary 108 bicycle travel 235 birds 219 birdwatching 12, 113, 12 Backwoods Camp 109 Bondla Wildlife Sanctuary 107 Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary 94 Mumbai 56, 57 boat travel 237 boat trips Bogmalo 171 Calangute 129 Candolim 121 Mobor 179 Panaji 84 Bogmalo Bollywood 71 Bombay, see Mumbai Bonderam 20 Bondla Wildlife Sanctuary 107 books 196, bookshops 213 Britona budget 15, see also costs bus travel 234, 235 business hours 15 C Cabo da Rama 180, 24 Calangute , 128 accommodation activities food 132 information 134 shopping tours 129 travel to/from travel within 135 Camões, Luís Vaz de 86 Canacona, see Chaudi Candolim , 122 canoeing, see kayaking canyoning 183 car travel 234, 235, see also motorcycle travel carbon-monoxide poisoning 243 Carnival 19, 87 carpets 214 casinos 89 caste system 206 cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals Cavelossim caves Kanheri Caves 57 Khandepar 106 Rivona Buddhist Caves cell phones 14, 231 Central Goa 36, , 80 accommodation 78 climate 78 food 78 highlights 80 travel seasons 78 Chandor Chapora 143-8, 144 Chaudi (Canacona) 182 Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya 46-7 Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus 43, 46 children, travel with Goa 33-4 Mumbai 56 Chorao Island 94 Christianity 208 Christmas 21 churches & cathedrals Basilica of Bom Jesus 96 Chapel of St Anthony 100 Chapel of St Catherine 98 Chapel of St Sebastian 85 Church & Convent of St Cajetan 98-9 Church & Convent of St Monica Church of Nossa Senhora Mae de Deus (Calangute) 133 Church of Nossa Senhora, Mae de Deus (Pombura) 157 Church of Our Lady of Compassion 101 Church of Our Lady of Miracles 140 Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception Church of Our Lady of the Mount 98 Church of Our Lady of the Rosary 100 Church of St Andrew 102 Church of St Augustine 99 Church of St Francis of Assisi 98 Church of St Lawrence (Agassim) 102 Church of St Lawrence (Fort Aguada) 121 Church of St Thomas 157 Church of the Holy Spirit 162 Mount Church 162 Nossa Senhora de Penha de Franca Nossa Senhora de Saude 170 Our Lady of Mercy Church 174

4 252 INDEX C- H churches & cathedrals continued Our Lady of Remedios 172 Rachol 166 Reis Magos Church 119 Sé Cathedral 97, 11 St Alex s Church 131 St Thomas Cathedral 48 cinema 217 climate 14, see also individual locations climate change 233 Coco Beach 119 coconuts 211 Cola Beach Colem 109 Colva 174-6, 175 consulates cooking courses 32 Anjuna 135 Assagao 141 Palolem 183 Corjuem Island costs accommodation 226, 230 food 228, 230 Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary 190 courses cooking 32, 135, 141, 183 dance 57 diving 30 language 57 music 57 yoga 30, 57, 142, 152, 153 credit cards 222, 230 cricket 209 crocodiles 219 cruises, see boat trips culture 196-7, 205-9, 212 currency 14 Curtorim 168 customs regulations 227 cycling 235 D dabba-wallahs 65 dance 215 courses 57 dangers, see safety Daroji Sloth Bear Sanctuary 117 death 207 deforestation 220 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 dengue fever 241 Devil s Canyon 109 Dhangars 110 Dharavi 48 diarrhoea diphtheria 239 disabilities, travellers with Divar Island diving 30 Baga 129 Bogmalo 171 Calangute 127 Diwali 20 dolphin spotting 34 Baga 127 Bogmalo 171 Calangute 129 Nerul (Coco) Beach 119 Panaji 84 Sinquerim 121 Dona Paula 93 drinking 16-17, 27, see also individual locations drinks 211 drinking water 242 driving 234, 235 Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary 94 drugs 139, 222, 229 Dudhsagar Falls 13, 108-9, 13 Dusshera 20 dysentery, amoebic 241 E Easter 19 economy Eid al-fitr 20 electricity 227 Elephanta Festival 18, 41 Elephanta Island 55-6 elephants 105, 109 services 228 embassies emergencies 15 encephalitis, Japanese 239, 241 environment 196-7, environmental issues 172, 220 etiquette 208 events, see festivals & events exchange rates 15 F fado 215 Faria, Abbé 84 Fatorda Stadium Feast of Our Lady of Livrament 21 Feast of Our Lady of Miracles 19 Feast of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception 21 Feast of St Anthony 19 Feast of St Francis Xavier 21, 96, 98 Feast of the Chapel 20 Feast of the Menino Jesus 20, 174 feni Fernandes House 167 Fernandes, Remo 216 ferry travel 237 Festa das Bandeiras 18 festivals & events 13, 18-21, 13 Carnival 19, 87 Elephanta Festival 41 Feast of the Menino Jesus 20, 174 Ganesh Chaturthi 20, 41 Hampi 113 Kala Ghoda Festival 18, 41 Mumbai Film Festival 41 Nariyal Poornima 20, 41 film 217 Bollywood 71 festivals 21, 41 fishing industry 172 Fontainhas 85 food 16, 78, , see also individual locations beach shacks 28 courses 32, 135, 141, 183 dabba-wallahs 65 safety 222 street food 63 football 208, 209 Fort Aguada 121, 122 travel to/from 127 forts 178 Cabo da Rama 180, 24 Cabo Raj Bhavan 93 Chapora Fort Corjuem Fort Fort Aguada 121, 127, 122, 12 Reis Magos Fort 119 Tiracol (Terekhol) 154 G Galgibag 190 Gandhi Jayanti 20 Ganesh Chaturthi 20, 41 Gateway of India 42, 10 gay travellers 68, 228 gem scams geography 218 geology 218 giardiasis Goa Arts & Literary Festival 21 Goa trance 215 Goa Velha 102 Gokarna golf 190 H haggling 214 Hampi , 112, 114 accommodation activities 113 festivals & events 113 food history 110 infomation 116 shopping 116 sights , 115 travel to/from 116 travel within 116 Hanuman Festival 19, 81 Harmal (Arambol) health books checklist environmental hazards food 222 insurance 238 services 240 vaccinations 238, 239 websites 239, 240 women s health 224, 243 hepatitis 239, 241 Hindi courses 57 Hinduism history Hampi 110 independence 203 Inquisition Kadambas 199 Mauryan empire Mumbai 40-1 Old Goa 94-5 Panaji 79 Portuguese arrival 199 HIV 241 holidays 230 horse riding 173 Hospet (Hosapete) 117 hospitals 91

5 253 I Igitun Chalne 19 immigration 232 independence 203 Independence Day 20 influenza 241 Inquisition insurance 228 diving 242 health 238 motorcycle 228 travel 228 International Film Festival of India 21 internet access 228 internet resources 15 Islam 208 itineraries Goa 22-5 Mumbai 40 J Japanese B encephalitis 239, 241 Jog Falls 194 K Kala Ghoda Festival 18, 41 kayaking 183 Keri, see Querim Khancola Khandepar 106 Khotachiwadi 49 kindergartens 34 Konkani L Lancastre, Ursula e 158 language 14, language courses 57 Largo de Igreja 162 leatherwork 214 legal matters lesbian travellers 68, 228 Liberation Day 21 literature 196, Loutolim 166 M magazines 229 Majorda 173 Malabar Hill 53 malaria 240 mando 215 Mandrem 151-3, 11 mansions Braganza House 167 Calangute 131 Candolim 126 Casa Araujo Alvares 166 Fernandes House 167 Mapusa 140-3, 17 Margao (Madgaon) 162-6, 164 Marine Drive 47 markets 10, 16, Anjuna 10, 138, 10 Baga 134 Mapusa 142, 17 Margao 165 Mumbai 73 Panaji 90 marriage 206 Mayem Lake 158 measures 229 meningitis 239 Menino Jesus 174 mining 220 Miramar 92-3 mobile phones 14, 231 Mobor Molem 107 money 14, 15, Morjim mosques Haji Ali Dargah Jama Masjid 81 Safa Shahouri Masjid 103 motorcycle travel 12, 15, 168, 236-7, 12 Mumbai (Bombay) 10, 35, 38-77, 39, 10 accommodation 38, activities 56-7 architecture 10, 10 art district 47 children, travel with 56 climate 38 Colaba 41-3, 59-61, 63-4, 68-9, 72, 42 courses 57 drinking & nightlife Elephanta Island 55-6 emergencies 74 entertainment 70-2 festivals & events 41 food 38, 63-7 Fort Area & Churchgate 43-9, 61-2, 64-6, 69, 72-3, 44-5 Gorai Island 55 highlights 39 history 40-1 itineraries 40 Kalbadevi 49-53, 66, 69, 73-4, 50-1 Mahalaxmi 49-53, 66, 69, 73-4, 50-1 medical services 74 Northern Suburbs 62-3 shopping 72-4 sights tourist information 74-5 tours 57-9 travel seasons 38 travel to/from 75, 76, 77 travel within 76-7 walking tours 58, 59, 58 Western Suburbs 53-4, 62-3, 66-7, 69-70, 74, 54 museums & galleries 84 Achies Art Gallery 167 Archaeological Museum (Hampi) 112 Archaeological Museum (Old Goa) 98 Chatterjee & Lal 47 Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya 46-7 Delhi Art Gallery 49 Dr Bhau Daji Lad Mumbai City Museum 49 Galerie Mirchandaani + Steinruecke 47 Gallery Maskara 47 Goa Chitra 176 Goa State Central Library 81 Goa State Museum 81 Houses of Goa Museum 156 Jehangir Art Gallery 48 Jhaveri Contemporary 47 Kristu Kala Mandir Art Gallery 97-8 Mani Bhavan 49 Mario Gallery 156 Mumbai Boss 47 Museum of Christian Art 100 National Gallery of Modern Art 48-9 Naval Aviation Museum 171 Project music 196, 215 courses 57 N Nariyal Poornima 20, 41 Naroa 158 national parks & reserves, see sanctuaries & protected areas Nerul (Coco) Beach 119 Netravali Bubble Lake 188 newspapers 229 nightlife, see drinking North Goa 36, , 120 accommodation 118 climate 118 food 118 highlights 120 travel seasons 118 O Old Goa 11, , 95, 11 olive ridley marine turtles 150, 181, 190, 219 opening hours 15 P painting Palácio do Deão 168 Palolem 9, 183-8, 184, 8-9, 24 accommodation activities courses 183 drinking & nightlife food information 188 shopping 188 travel to/from 188 Panaji 9, 36, 79-92, 82, 9 accommodation 84-7 activities 84 drinking & nightlife entertainment 90 food 87-9 history 79 information 91 shopping 90-1 sights 79-84, 85 tours 84, 85 travel to/from 91, 91-2 travel within 92 papier-mâché 214 paragliding 135, 153 Parsis 52 passports 232 Patnem photography etiquette 223 Pilar Pinto Revolt 125 planning beaches 26-8 budgeting 15 calendar of events children 33-4 Goa basics Goa s regions 35-6 internet resources 15 itineraries 22-5 INDEX I- P

6 254 INDEX P- Z planning continued Mumbai basics Mumbai s regions 35 travel seasons 14 plants 220 Polem 191 police 229 polio 239 politics 196-7, Pomburpa Ponda 103-4, 103, 11 population 197 postal services 230 Procession of All Saints 19 public holidays 230 Q Quepem 168 Querim (Keri) 154 R rabies 239, 241 Rachol Seminary 166 radio 229 rafting 56 Rajbag Ramadan 20 Reis Magos 18, 119 religion 197, Ribandar 93-4 rickshaws, auto 15, Rivona Buddhist Caves rock climbing 113 S safety 222-3, drinking water 242 food 222 scams solo travellers 225 swimming 27 women travellers Sancoale 170 sanctuaries & protected areas Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary 108 Bondla Wildlife Sanctuary 107 Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary 190 Daroji Sloth Bear Sanctuary 117 Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary 94 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Netravali Protected Area 188 Sanjay Gandhi National Park 57 Sangodd 20 Sanjay Gandhi National Park 57 Sanjuan 19 Sao Antonio Islet 170 Sao Jacinto 170 Sao Tomé 85 Sassoon Dock 43 Sat Burnzam Ghor 162 scams Sé Cathedral 97, 11 Shantadurga 18 Shigmotsav (Shigmo) 18, 13 Shivratri 19 shopping 16, , see also markets, individual locations silent parties 187 Sinquerim , 122 Siolim Siolim Zagor 21, 149 slums 48 smoking 229 snakes 219 soccer 208, 209 solo travellers 225 South Goa 36, , accommodation 159 climate 159 food 159 highlights 160 travel seasons 159 spas 16 spice plantations 11, 105, 109, 188, 11 spitting 229 sport 209 St Francis Xavier 96, 202 surfing Arambol 153 Aswem 150 Gokarna 192 Utorda susegad 205 synagogues 48 T Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, Mumbai 41-2, 10 Talpona 190 Tambdi Surla Tanshikar Spice Farm 188 taxis 236 motorcycles 236 women travellers 225, 236 telephone services 14, 231 temples 108 architecture 108 Gokarna 191 Hanuman Temple 116 Hazarama Temple 111 Krishna Temple 111 Lakshimi Narasmiha 111 Mahalaxmi Temple 81 Maruti Temple (Mapusa) Maruti Temple (Panaji) 81 Shri Chandreshwar (Bhutnath) Temple 169 Shri Damodar Temple 168 Shri Laxmi Narasimha Temple 106 Shri Mahadeva Temple Shri Mahalaxmi Temple Shri Mahalsa Temple Shri Manguesh Temple Shri Naguesh Temple 106 Shri Ramnath Temple 107 Shri Saptakoteshwara Temple 158 Shri Shantadurga Temple 107 Virupaksha Temple Vittala Temple 111 tetanus 239 textiles 214 theatre 217 theft 223 time 231 tipping 230 tourism 196-7, 220 tourist information 231 tours 31, 237, see also boat trips, individual locations touts 223 train travel 12, 15, 234-5, 237, 12 trance parties 146 travel seasons 78, 118 travel to/from Goa travel within Goa tuberculosis 239, 241 turtles 150, 181, 190, 219 TV 229 typhoid 239, 241 U Usgalimal Rock Carvings 169 Utorda V vacations 230 Vagator 143-8, 144 Varca varicella 239 Vasco da Gama vegetarian travellers 212 Velsao Victoria Terminus 43, 46 Virupaksha Temple visas 14, 232 Vittala Temple 111 volunteering 31-2 W walking tours Mumbai 58, 59, 58 water, drinking 242 waterfalls Dudhsagar Falls 108-9, 13 Hampi Waterfalls 113 Jog Falls 194 weather 14, see also individual locations websites 15 weights 229 wildlife watching 12, 31, , 12, see also birdwatching, dolphin-spotting Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary 108 Bondla Wildlife Sanctuary 107 Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary 190 Daroji Sloth Bear Sanctuary 117 women travellers 224-5, 236 women s health 224, 243 Y yoga 29, 30 Anjuna 135 Arambol 153 Assagao 142 beaches 28 Mandrem 11, 152, 11 Mumbai 56, 57 Palolem 183 Patnem 189 Z Zagor Festival 21, 149 Zambaulim 168

7 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 255 Map Legend Sights Beach Bird Sanctuary Buddhist Castle/Palace Christian Confucian Hindu Islamic Jain Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Ruin Shinto Sikh Taoist Winery/Vineyard Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Other Sight Activities, Courses & Tours Bodysurfing Diving Canoeing/Kayaking Course/Tour Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Skiing Snorkelling Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Activity Sleeping Eating Sleeping Camping Eating Drinking & Nightlife Drinking & Nightlife Cafe Entertainment Entertainment Shopping Shopping Information Bank Embassy/Consulate Hospital/Medical Internet Police Post Office Telephone Toilet Tourist Information Other Information Geographic Beach Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall Population Capital (National) Capital (State/Province) City/Large Town Town/Village Transport Airport Border crossing Bus Cable car/funicular Cycling Ferry Metro station Monorail Parking Petrol station Subway station Taxi Train station/railway Tram Underground station Other Transport Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book Routes Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed road Road under construction Plaza/Mall Steps Tunnel Pedestrian overpass Walking Tour Walking Tour detour Path/Walking Trail Boundaries International State/Province Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall Hydrography River, Creek Intermittent River Canal Water Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Reef Areas Airport/Runway Beach/Desert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Glacier Mudflat Park/Forest Sight (Building) Sportsground Swamp/Mangrove

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