Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. Behind the Scenes

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1 280 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Barbara Illingworth, Bhuvnesh Gupta, Chuck Burton, Dom Rudd, Frank Clarke, George Barrow, Helen Scurfield, Kerry Nicholls, Lucy Graubart, Magda Bedkowska, Michael Beer, Renée Keulers, Sutej Sharma, Suzanne Hopwood, Terri Drage, Vincenzo Coppola WRITER THANKS Lindsay Brown I am very grateful for the help and encouragement provided by Satinder, Karan & Ritu and Dicky & Kavita in Jaipur, Anoop in Pushkhar, Usha in Ranthambhore, Harsh in Bikaner, Siddharth in Jaisalmer, Ramesh Jangid in Nawalgarh, Laxmi Kant Jangid in Jhunjhunu and many many others who helped out along the road. Last but not least, thanks to Jenny. Abigail Blasi Thanks to all the people who helped me in Delhi, including my Delhi family Jyoti and Niranjan Desai, to Danish Abbas, Nicholas Thompson, Sarah Fotheringham, Toby Sinclair and the Delhi Walla himself, Mayank Austen Soofi. Special gratitude to Joe Bindloss and to all the other India authors for their help and knowledge. Huge thanks to my Mum, Ant & Luca for looking after everyone at home. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, Cover photograph: Rajasthani woman passing street mural in Bundi, Ian Trower/AWL Illustrations pp36 7 and pp82 3 by Javier Zarracina; pp98 9 by Michael Weldon. THIS BOOK This 5th edition of Lonely Planet s Rajasthan, Delhi & Agra guidebook was researched and written by Lindsay Brown and Abigail Blasi. The previous edition was written by Paul Clammer, Abigail Blasi and Kevin Raub. This guidebook was produced by the following: Destination Editor Joe Bindloss Product Editors Alison Ridgway, Kathryn Rowan Cartographers Lonely Planet Cartography Book Designer Michael Buick Assisting Editors Imogen Bannister, Anne Mulvaney, Gabrielle Stefanos Cover Researcher Naomi Parker Thanks to Joel Cotterell, Daniel Fahey, Gemma Graham, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Tom Stainer

2 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 281 Index A Abhaneri 127 accessible travel accommodation 246-7, see also individual locations children, travel with 26 language 274 palaces 16 activities 19-21, see also individual activities Agra 9, 28, 78-97, 79, 86, 88, 2-3, 8-9, 17 accommodation 78, activities 87 climate 78 drinking & nightlife 93 emergencies 94 festivals & events 91 food 78, 91-3 highlights 79 medical services 94 scams 94 shopping 93-4 sights tourist information 95 tours 87-8 travel seasons 78 travel to/from 95-6 travel within 96 Agra Fort 84-6, 17 air pollution 270 air travel to/from India 257 within India 258 Ajmer 135-8, 136 altitude sickness 271 Alwar Amber Amber Fort 9, 127-8, 9 amoebic dysentery 270 animals , see also individual species Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 antelopes 237 archaeological sites Mehrauli Archaeological Park 75 Qutb Minar Complex 75 architecture area codes 15, 254 art galleries, see museums & galleries arts 102-3, 232-3, see also individual arts ATMs 250 autorickshaws 262 avian flu 269 ayurveda Delhi 53 Jaipur 115 Pushkar Udaipur 158 B baoris 235 bathrooms 254 bazaars, see markets & bazaars bears 97, 239 beer 231 begging 219 Bhagavad Gita 225 Bharatpur , 129 Bhil people 222 bicycle travel, see cycling Bikaner , bird flu 269 birdwatching 16, 21, , 17 Desert National Park 196 Guda Bishnoi 185 Keoladeo National Park , 17 Kota 150 Kumbhalgarh Wildlife Sanctuary 165 Mt Abu 169 Ranthambhore National Park 11, 143-5, 11 Rao Jodha Desert Rock Park Sultanpur National Park 76 Bishnoi people 222 block printing 103, 105, 105 boat trips Kota 150 Udaipur 156 books 204 border crossings to Pakistan 185, 258 Brahma 224 Brahman 224 British East India Company 213 British empire budgeting 15 Bundi 13, , 146, 13 bus travel local transport 262 within Rajasthan 259 business hours 15, 251 C camel safaris 13, 17-18, 13 Bikaner 197 Jaisalmer Osian 186 Sam Sand Dunes 195 camels 11, 13, 17-18, 11, 13 car travel carbon-monoxide poisoning 270 carpets 103, 234, 102, 103 caste system 223 cell phones 14, cenotaphs 235 chai Chand Baori 127 chhatris 235 children, travel with 25-6 chinkaras 237 Chittorgarh (Chittor) 12, 151-4, 152, 5, 12 cholera 269 City Palace (Alwar) City Palace (Jaipur) 107, , 105 City Palace (Kota) 150 City Palace (Udaipur) 155, 12 climate 14, 19-21, see also individual regions climate change 257 coffee 230 consulates 248 cooking courses Delhi 54 Jaipur 115 Pushkar 140 Udaipur 158 costs 15 courses, see also individual locations cooking 54, 115, 140, 158 language 54 meditation 54, 115 yoga 54, 115, 140, 158 crafts 103, 233-4, 102, 103, 104, 105 credit cards 242, 251 cricket 222 culture 204-5, currency 250 customs regulations cycle-rickshaws 262 cycling Delhi 53 Jaipur 115 Udaipur D dance 232 dangers, see safety Deeg 132 dehydration 270 Delhi 10, 27, 30-77, 32-3, 10 accommodation 30, 54-9 activities 53 climate 30 Connaught Place 42-3, 57, 61-2, 69, 42-3

3 282 INDEX D- J Delhi continued courses 54 drinking & nightlife 65-6 entertainment 67 food 30, highlights 32-3 internet access 71 medical services 71 New Delhi 43-9, 58, 62-4, 69-70, 46-7 Old Delhi 34-42, 54-5, 59-60, 68-9, 38-9 Paharganj 55-7, 60-1, 56 safety 70-1 shopping sights South Delhi 50-2, 58-9, 64-5, 70, 50-1 tourist information 71 tours 53-4 travel seasons 30 travel to/from 71-2 travel within 72-5 West Delhi 57-8, 60-1 dengue fever 269 Desert National Park 196 deserts 17-18, 204, 237 diarrhoea disabilities, travellers with divorce 220 Diwali 21 drinking water 271 drinks driving droughts 204 drugs 242, 250 dysentery, amoebic 270 E economy electricity 248 embassies 248 embroidery 234 emergencies 15, 276 enamelwork 233 encephalitis, Japanese B 269 endangered species 239 environmental issues 204 events, see festivals & events exchange rates 15 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 F Fatehpur 174 Fatehpur Sikri , 98-9, festivals & events 17, 19-21, 28 Delhi 31 Dussehra Mela 114 Gangaur 114 Jodhpur Flamenco & Gypsy Festival 180 Kailash Fair 91 Marwar Festival 180 Mewar Festival 159 Pushkar Camel Fair 140 Rajasthan 114 Rajasthan International Folk Festival 180 Ram Barat 91 Taj Mahotsav 91 Teej 114 film 204, 233 food 27, , 248-9, see also individual locations children, travel with 25-6 cooking courses 54, 115, 140, 158 language safety 242, 270 vegetarian travellers 228 forts 16, 28, 235, see also palaces accommodation 247 Agra Fort 84-6, 17 Amber Fort 9, 127-8, 9 Bala Quila Chittorgarh Fort 12, 151-3, 5, 12 Jaigarh 128 Jaisalmer Fort 11, 186, 11 Junagarh Kankwari Fort 134 Kumbhalgarh 165 Lohagarh 129 Mehrangarh 10, 177, 10 Nahargarh Purana Qila 47-8 Red Fort 34-5, 36-7, 36-7 Taragarh 147 Tughlaqabad 75 frescoes 233, G galleries, see museums & galleries Gandhi, Indira 45, 216 Gandhi, Mahatma 21, 41, 45, 215, 216 Ganesh 224 gardens, see parks & gardens gay travellers 249 gazelles 237 gems 233, geography giardiasis 270 golf 53 Guda Bishnoi 185 Gurgaon (Gurugram) 76-7 Guru Shikhar 169 H Hanuman 224 havelis 235, 247, 12 Bhagton ki Choti Haveli 171 Binsidhar Newatia Haveli 175 Le Prince Haveli 174 Modi Havelis 173 Mohanlal Ishwardas Modi Haveli 173 Murmuria Haveli 175 Nathmal-ki-Haveli 189 Patwa-ki-Haveli Shekhawati 175 Hawa Mahal 113 health books 268 checklist children, travel with 26 environmental hazards insurance 266 services 268 vaccinations 266, 267 websites 268 heatstroke 271 hepatitis 269 hijras 221 hiking 169 Hindu temples Akshardham Temple 52 Brahma Temple Chhatarpur Mandir 51-2 Galta Jagdish Temple 157 Jhandewalan Hanuman Temple 42 Karni Mata Temple 200 Lakshmi Narayan Temple 41-2 Laxminarayan Temple 188 Old Rangji Temple 138 Pap Mochani (Gayatri) Temple 139 Savitri Mata Temple 138 Hinduism history HIV 269 Holi 19, 2, 18 holidays 253 horse riding 158 I immigration 257 independence indigenous peoples 222 influenza 269 insect bites & stings insurance health 266 motorcycle 261 travel 249 internet access 249 internet resources 15 Islam 225 Iswari Minar Swarga Sal 113 itineraries 22-4, 22, 23, 24 J jackals 238 Jagmandir Island Jain temples Bhandasar Temple 197 Delwara Temples 167 Digambara Jain Temple 35 Jaisalmer 187 Mahavira Temple 185 Nasiyan (Red) Temple Ranakpur 166 Jainism 226 Jaipur 9, , , 9 accommodation activities 115 courses 115 drinking & nightlife 122 entertainment food internet access 124 medical services 124 shopping sights tourist information 124 tours travel to/from travel within walking tours 116, 116 Jaipur Elephant Festival 19 Jaipur Literature Festival 19

4 283 Jaisalmer 11, , 188-9, 11 accommodation drinking food history 186 shopping 194 sights tourist information 194 tours 190 travel to/from travel within 195 Jaisalmer Desert Festival 19 Jaisalmer Fort 11, 186, 11 Jama Masjid (Agra) 87 Jama Masjid (Delhi) 40-1, 10 Jama Masjid (Fatehpur Sikri) 97 Japanese B encephalitis 269 jeep travel 262 jewellery 233 Jhunjhunu Jodhpur 10, , 178-9, 10, 102, 103 accommodation activities drinking & nightlife 183 festivals & events 180 history 177 shopping 18 sights tourist information 184 travel to/from travel within 185 jodhpurs 183 K Kali 224 Keoladeo National Park , 17 Khejadali 185 Khuri Kota Krishna 224 Kumbhalgarh Kumbhalgarh Wildlife Sanctuary 165 kushti 67 L lakes Jait Sagar 147 Lake Pichola 156 Nakki Lake 168 language 14, language courses 54 legal matters 250 leopards 168, 238 lesbian travellers 249 literature 204 M magazines 247 Mahabharata 225 Majnu-ka-Tilla 59 malaria Mandawa maps 250 markets & bazaars 18, 27 Delhi 67, 68, 68-9, 69, 70 Jaipur 123 Pushkar 143 marriage mausoleums, see tombs, shrines & mausoleums measures 247 medical services 268 meditation courses Delhi 54 Jaipur 115 Mehrangarh 10, 177, 10 metro travel 262 Mina people 222 mobile phones 14, money 14, 15, monkeys monuments & statues Agrasen ki Baoli 43 Clock Tower 180 Coronation Durbar Site 41 Raj Ghat 41 Royal Gaitor 114 mosques Fatehpuri Masjid Jama Masjid (Agra) 87 Jama Masjid (Delhi) 40-1, 10 Jama Masjid (Fatehpur Sikri) 97 Sunehri Masjid 35 motorcycle travel Mt Abu , 168 Mughal dynasty 27, 28, museums & galleries Anokhi Museum of Hand Printing 128 Archaeological Museum (Fatehpur Sikri) Bagore-ki-Haveli 157 Central Museum (Jaipur) 113 City Palace (Kota) 150 City Palace Museum (Udaipur) 155 Crafts Museum 48 Desert Cultural Centre & Museum 190 Dr Ramnath A Podar Haveli Museum 171 Gandhi Smriti 45 Government Museum Indira Gandhi Memorial Museum 45 Mehrangarh Museum Morarka Haveli Museum 171 Museo Camera 76 National Bal Bhavan 41 National Gallery of Modern Art 45 National Gandhi Museum 41 National Museum 45 National Rail Museum 48 National Research Centre on Camels 202 Nehru Memorial Museum 45-6 Prachina Cultural Centre & Museum 197 Rashtrapati Bhavan Museum 45 Sanskriti Museums 52-3 Shankar s International Dolls Museum 41 SRC Museum of Indology 113 Sulabh International Museum of Toilets 52 Taj Museum 84 Thar Heritage Museum 190 Vintage & Classic Car Collection 158 N National Gallery of Modern Art 45 National Museum 45 national parks & reserves 238, see also wildlife sanctuaries Desert National Park 196 Keoladeo National Park , 17 Ranthambhore National Park 11, 143-5, 11 Sariska Tiger Reserve & National Park Sultanpur National Park 76 Nawalgarh newspapers 247 O observatories Jantar Mantar (Delhi) 43 Jantar Mantar (Jaipur) opening hours 15, 251 Osian P paan 230 painting 232-3, Pakistan, border crossings 185, 258 palaces 16, 235, see also forts accommodation 247 Bundi Palace 13, 147, 13 Chitrasala 147 City Palace (Alwar) City Palace (Jaipur) 107, , 105 City Palace (Kota) 150 City Palace (Udaipur) 155, 12 Fatehpur Sikri , Fort Palace Hawa Mahal 113 Jal Mahal 114 Sajjan Garh Suraj Mahl s Palace 132 Umaid Bhawan Palace 180 parks & gardens Lodi Gardens 44 Mehtab Bagh 84 Mughal Gardens 45 Rao Jodha Desert Rock Park Partition Parvati 224 passports 257 phad photography planning, see also individual regions budgeting 15 calendar of events children, travel with 25-6 India basics 14 internet resources 15 itineraries 22-4, 22, 23, 24 regional overviews 27-8 travel seasons 14, INDEX J- P

5 284 INDEX P- Z police 250 politics pollution 270 polo 123 population 205 postal services pottery 234 prickly heat 271 public holidays 253 puppetry 234 Puranas Pushkar 11, , 139, 2, 11 Pushkar Camel Fair 11, 21, 140, 11 R rabies 269 radio 247 Rajasthan 28, , accommodation 106 climate 106 highlights Rajputs 28 Ramayana 225 Ranakpur Ranthambhore National Park 11, 143-5, 11 Red Fort 34-5, 36-7, 36-7 religion 205, rickshaws 262 rugs 103, 234, 103 ruins Adhai-din-ka-Jhonpra 137 Bhangarh 134 Feroz Shah Kotla 41 Mehrauli Archaeological Park 75 Qutb Minar Complex 75 S sacred texts safaris 13, 17-18, 13 Bikaner 197 Jaisalmer Osian 186 Sam Sand Dunes 195 safety 242-3, 252, 253 Delhi 70-1 drinking water 242, 271 drugs 242 food 242, 270 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 scams solo travellers 245 women travellers Salawas 185 Sam Sand Dunes 195 saris 244, 104 Sariska Tiger Reserve & National Park scams 94, Shekhawati 12, 171-6, 172, 12 Shiva 224 shopping 18, 27 shrines, see tombs, shrines & mausoleums Sikh temples Gurdwara Bangla Sahib Sisganj Gurdwara 35 Sikhism Sisodia dynasty 208 sloth bears 97, 239 smoking 250 solo travellers 245 spa treatments 53 sports cricket 222 kushti 67 polo 123 statues, see monuments & statues step-wells 235 Sufism 225 Sultanpur National Park 76 sunburn 272 T Taj Mahal 9, 80-4, 88, 2-3, 8-9, 82-3 taxes accommodation 246 air travel 257 car travel 259 food taxis 262 tea telephone services 14, 15, temples 235, see also Hindu temples, Jain temples, Sikh temples tempos 262 textiles 103, 233-4, 103, 104, 105 thalis 229 Thar Desert 13, 192-3, 204, 236, 240, 13 theft 243, 245, 249, 259 tigers 11, Ranthambhore National Park 144, 11 Sariska Tiger Reserve 134 time 14 toilets 254 tombs, shrines & mausoleums 28 Akbar s Mausoleum 86 Chini-ka-Rauza 87 Dargah of Khwaja Muinud-din Chishti Hazrat Nizam-ud-din Dargah 43-4 Humayun s Tomb 43 Itimad-ud-Daulah 86-7 Khan-i-Khanan s Tomb 49 Safdarjang s Tomb 49 Taj Mahal 9, 80-4, 88, 2-3, 8-9, 82-3 tour scams 243 tourism tourist information 254 tours, see individual locations touts 243 train travel travel to/from India travel within India 15, trekking 169 tribal peoples tuberculosis 269 TV 247 typhoid 269 U Udaipur 12, , 156, 12 accommodation activities 158 courses 158 drinking & nightlife 162 emergencies 163 entertainment festivals & events 159 food internet access 163 medical services 163 shopping 163 sights tourist information 164 tours travel to/from 164 travel within V vacations 253 vaccinations 266, 267 Vedas vegetarian travellers 228 wvisas 14, Vishnu 224 volunteering 256 W walking tours Delhi 53-4 Jaipur 116, 116 Udaipur 159 water, drinking 271 weather 14, 19-21, see also individual regions weaving 234 websites 15 weights 247 wildlife sanctuaries 16, 28, , see also national parks & reserves Kumbhalgarh Wildlife Sanctuary 165 Mt Abu Wildlife Sanctuary 168 Sajjan Garh WIldlife Sanctuary 158 Sariska Tiger Reserve & National Park Tal Chhapar Wildlife Sanctuary 238 wine 231 women in Rajasthan women travellers women s health 272 World Heritage Sites Fatehpur Sikri , 98-9, Jantar Mantar (Jaipur) Keoladeo National Park , 17 Taj Mahal 9, 80-4, 88, 2-3, 8-9, 82-3 work 205, 256 wrestling 67 Y yoga courses Delhi 54 Jaipur 115 Pushkar 140 Udaipur 158 Z zoos 48-9

6 285 NOTES

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8 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 287 Map Legend Sights Beach Bird Sanctuary Buddhist Castle/Palace Christian Confucian Hindu Islamic Jain Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Ruin Shinto Sikh Taoist Winery/Vineyard Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Other Sight Activities, Courses & Tours Bodysurfing Diving Canoeing/Kayaking Course/Tour Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Skiing Snorkelling Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Activity Sleeping Eating Sleeping Camping Eating Drinking & Nightlife Drinking & Nightlife Cafe Entertainment Entertainment Shopping Shopping Information Bank Embassy/Consulate Hospital/Medical Internet Police Post Office Telephone Toilet Tourist Information Other Information Geographic Beach Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall Population Capital (National) Capital (State/Province) City/Large Town Town/Village Transport Airport Border crossing Bus Cable car/funicular Cycling Ferry Metro station Monorail Parking Petrol station Subway station Taxi Train station/railway Tram Underground station Other Transport Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book Routes Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed road Road under construction Plaza/Mall Steps Tunnel Pedestrian overpass Walking Tour Walking Tour detour Path/Walking Trail Boundaries International State/Province Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall Hydrography River, Creek Intermittent River Canal Water Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Reef Areas Airport/Runway Beach/Desert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Glacier Mudflat Park/Forest Sight (Building) Sportsground Swamp/Mangrove

9 OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end broke but inspired they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony s belief that a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse. OUR WRITERS Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Lindsay Brown Lindsay started travelling as a young bushwalker exploring the Blue Mountains west of Sydney. Then as a marine biologist he dived the coastal and island waters of southeastern Australia. He continued travelling whenever he could while employed at Lonely Planet as an editor and publishing manager. On becoming a freelance writer and photographer he has co-authored more than 30 Lonely Planet guides to Australia, Bhutan, India, Nepal, Pakistan and Papua New Guinea. Abigail Blasi A freelance travel writer, Abigail has lived and worked in London, Rome, Hong Kong, and Copenhagen. Lonely Planet have sent her to India, Egypt, Tunisia, Mauritania, Mali, Italy, Portugal, Malta and around Britain. She writes regularly for newspapers and magazines, such as the Independent, the Telegraph, and Lonely Planet Traveller. She has three children and they often come along for the ride. Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN th edition October 2017 ISBN Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs as indicated Printed in China Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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