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1 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Tanzania Lake Victoria p246 Northern Tanzania p153 Western Tanzania p263 Central Tanzania p237 Southern Highlands p281 Northeastern Tanzania p126 Zanzibar Archipelago p75 Dar es Salaam p52 Southeastern Tanzania p315 Mary Fitzpatrick, Ray Bartlett, David Else, Anthony Ham, Helena Smith

2 PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD TR3GIN / SHUTTERSTOCK ALEKSANDAR TODOROVIC / SHUTTERSTOCK Welcome to Tanzania Tanzania Map... 6 Tanzania s Top Need to Know If You Like Month by Month Itineraries Safaris Active Tanzania Travel with Children Regions at a Glance SLAVE MEMORIAL, ANGLICAN CATHEDRAL P80 MAASAI WARRIORS P187 DAR ES SALAAM Around Dar es Salaam Northern Beaches Offshore Islands Southern Beaches ZANZIBAR ARCHIPELAGO Zanzibar Island Zanzibar Town Zanzibar Town s Offshore Islands Mangapwani Nungwi Kendwa Tumbatu Matemwe Kiwengwa Pongwe Michamvi Peninsula Bwejuu Paje Jambiani Makunduchi Kizimkazi Fumba & Menai Bay Pemba Chake Chake Mkoani Kiweni Wete Tumbe Ngezi Forest Reserve Kigomasha Peninsula NORTHEASTERN TANZANIA Bagamoyo Saadani National Park Pangani Tanga Muheza Korogwe Usambara Mountains Amani Nature Reserve Soni Lushoto Mlalo Mtae Pare Mountains Same Mbaga Mwanga Usangi Mkomazi National Park NORTHERN TANZANIA Northern Safari Circuit Arusha Arusha National Park Tarangire National Park Manyara Ranch Conservancy Mto wa Mbu Lake Manyara National Park Karatu Lake Eyasi Ngorongoro Conservation Area Lake Natron Oldupai Gorge & Western Ngorongoro Serengeti National Park Kilimanjaro Area

3 Contents UNDERSTAND Moshi Machame Marangu Mt Kilimanjaro National Park West Kilimanjaro CENTRAL TANZANIA Dodoma Kondoa Rock-Art Sites Babati Mt Hanang Singida LAKE VICTORIA Musoma Mwanza Ukerewe Island Rubondo Island National Park Biharamulo Bukoba WESTERN TANZANIA Tabora Kigoma Ujiji Gombe National Park National Park Kalema Kipili Kasanga Mpanda Katavi National Park Sumbawanga SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS Morogoro Mikumi National Park Mikumi Town Udzungwa Mountains National Park Iringa Kalenga Ruaha National Park Makambako Njombe Kitulo National Park Mbeya Lake Rukwa Tukuyu Kasumulu Lake Nyasa Songea Tunduru SOUTHEASTERN TANZANIA Mafia Selous Game Reserve Kilwa Masoko Kilwa Kisiwani Songo Mnara Kilwa Kivinje Songo Songo Lindi Mtwara Mikindani Mnazi Bay-Ruvuma Estuary Marine Park Makonde Plateau Tanzania Today History People & Daily Life Environment & National Parks Tanzanian Cuisine SURVIVAL GUIDE Directory A-Z Transport Health Language Index Map Legend SPECIAL FEATURES Safaris...28 Active Tanzania Dar es Salaam City Walk Wildlife & Habitat Colour Feature Tanzanian Cuisine...365

4 22 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Itineraries Serengeti # NP Ngorongoro Crater # Lake Manyara NP Mt Kilimanjaro R Moshi Arusha # Tarangire NP KENYA I N D I A N O C E A N # Matemwe Zanzibar Island Zanzibar Town Jambiani (Stone Town) Dar es Salaam 2 WEEKS Tanzania s Greatest Hits This route combines wildlife watching or trekking with gorgeous beaches and the alluring Spice Islands. It s a popular itinerary, with plenty of accommodation and dining choices at all stops. Fly into Kilimanjaro International Airport. Starting at Arusha, spend your first week exploring a few of the northern parks. Good wildlife-watching combinations include Ngorongoro Crater and Serengeti National Park or Ngorongoro plus Lake Manyara National Park and Tarangire National Park. Alternatively, head from the airport to Moshi and embark on a Mt Kilimanjaro trek. For either of these options (epic wildlife watching or serious mountain trekking), there are also numerous opportunities for hiking and cultural interaction around Arusha and Moshi. Give the second half of your adventure over to less energetic pursuits. First, either fly to Zanzibar Island or travel overland from Moshi or Arusha and then catch a boat. Once here, divide your week between exploration of Stone Town (Zanzibar Town s historic quarter) and relaxation on the island s beaches Matemwe and Jambiani are just two of the possibilities for getting your fill of white sand. Fly out again from Zanzibar Island, or from nearby Dar es Salaam.

5 23 RWANDA BURUNDI Lake Victoria Mwanza # Serengeti NP Arusha KENYA Gombe # NP Kigoma Mahale Mountains NP # Katavi # NP DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC OF THE CONGO Kipili Lake Tanganyika ZAMBIA Ruaha NP # Mbeya # Kitulo NP Tukuyu Matema MALAWI Iringa Lake Nyasa # Udzungwa Mountains NP Morogoro # Mikumi NP Zanzibar Island Dar es Salaam Mafia PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries 6 WEEKS Southern Highlands & Western Tanzania The Southern Highlands is one of Tanzania s most scenic regions, appealing especially to adventure-loving travellers with at least several weeks at their disposal. For those with more time and a taste for the offbeat, the region links nicely with western Tanzania. From Dar es Salaam, head west to Morogoro for cultural tours and hiking, or to Mikumi National Park, with its easily spotted wildlife. Next stop: Udzungwa Mountains National Park, for hiking up the steep, lushly vegetated slopes or exploring the surrounding Kilombero area. Alternatively, continue from Mikumi to Iringa, which makes a relaxing base. From Iringa, a two- or three-night detour to Ruaha National Park is well worth the effort, before heading down the Tanzam Hwy to Mbeya. En route are several lovely spots to relax and explore. Once in Mbeya, there is plenty to do in the surrounding area. Options include hiking in the scenic hills around Tukuyu; canoeing, exploring and hiking around Lake Nyasa, using Matema, with its picturesque beach and lush mountains, as a base; and hiking in lovely Kitulo National Park, with its wildflowers and wide vistas. Taking your time, it would be easy enough to spend the first three weeks of your itinerary up to this point. With the remaining time, you could return the way you came, with several days left over at the end for a short stay on Zanzibar Island or Mafia. On Mafia, don t miss a day of diving or snorkelling from a wooden dhow. For those wanting more adventure, we recommend continuing northwest from Mbeya via Sumbawanga to Katavi National Park. This park deserves at least two days, especially in the dry season when wildlife watching is at its best. From Katavi, double back and head down the escarpment to Lake Tanganyika for several days relaxing at Lake Shore Lodge near Kipili before taking the MV Liemba to National Park, or on to Kigoma and perhaps an overnight at nearby Gombe National Park. From Kigoma, take a train, bus or plane back to Dar es Salaam. Alternatively but this will require two to three additional weeks you can continue overland from Kigoma to Mwanza and Lake Victoria, from where you could proceed into the Serengeti and on to Arusha.

6 24 Kilimanjaro # International Airport Moshi RPare Mountains KENYA PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries Lushoto R Usambara Mountains # Amani NR Sange #Ù Saadani NP # Bagamoyo Tanga Pangani Zanzibar Island Pemba Zanzibar Town (Stone Town) I N D I A N O C E A N Dar es Salaam 4 WEEKS Northeastern Tanzania Northeastern Tanzania has accommodation options and transport connections for all budgets, and a delightful mix of beach, cultural and historical attractions and bush. For combination itineraries, it s also conveniently sandwiched between Tanzania s northern circuit wildlife parks and Mt Kilimanjaro to the northwest, and the Zanzibar Archipelago to the east. From Kilimanjaro airport, spend time in Moshi before heading southeast to the Usambara Mountains around Lushoto. It s easy to spend up to a week here hiking, exploring and enjoying the hill panoramas. Botanists and birders can venture further to Amani Nature Reserve in the eastern Usambaras, with its cool forest walks and nighttime symphony of insects. With extra time and a tolerance for off-the-beaten-track travel, another possible detour before reaching Lushoto is to the Pare Mountains for hiking and getting to know local Pare culture. Once you ve finished exploring the mountains, travel eastwards to Tanga. This coastal town, with its relaxed ambience, wide streets filled with cyclists, nearby beaches and many nearby excursions, is one of Tanzania s most pleasant urban areas. It s also the starting point for exploring the Pangani area, with its quiet coastline and long history. Many travellers wind up staying here longer than planned. Zanzibar Island is just across the channel from Pangani, and there are regular boat and plane connections linking the island with Pangani and with nearby Tanga. Once on Zanzibar Island, get to know Zanzibar Town s Stone Town, relax on a beach or two or three and perhaps also venture to Pemba for a complete change of pace. After you have finished your exploration of the archipelago, frequent boat and plane connections make it easy to get to Dar es Salaam. Allow a day or several in this crowded, bustling city to see the sights, do some final shopping, enjoy the array of good eateries and perhaps even visit nearby historical Bagamoyo or (with a bit more time) tiny Saadani National Park. An enjoyable way to incorporate these latter destinations into your travels is by making your way down the coast from Pangani to Bagamoyo via lovely Sange beach.

7 25 Dar es Salaam Selous GR # # # # Mafia Kilwa Masoko Kilwa Kisiwani Fanjove Private Island I N D I A N O C E A N PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries Lindi Mtwara Mikindani # Mnazi Bay-Ruvuma Estuary MP 10 DAYS Selous, Mafia & Beyond This itinerary is ideal for those wanting to get a glimpse of Tanzania s wildlife and beaches away from the more standard northern circuit Zanzibar Archipelago combination. Allow about 10 days for a straight Selous Mafia combination, and up to four weeks for extended versions taking in Kilwa and Mikindani, further south. Starting in Dar es Salaam, spend several days enjoying the city s restaurants and craft shopping, visiting a museum or taking a cultural tourism tour. From Dar es Salaam, there are daily buses in the dry season to Selous Game Reserve, but it s a long, rough ride. There s also a slow train, and daily flights. The Selous is a magnificent reserve, and well worth at least three to four days enjoying its fine lodges, boat safaris, wildlife and amazing night sounds, especially hippos grunting in the Rufiji River. From Selous, there are daily flights to Mafia, just offshore. Spend the remaining few days of your stay here in one of the lovely island lodges, diving and snorkelling, trying to spot whale sharks or sailing to some of the smaller islands to get a glimpse into the archipelago s fascinating Swahili culture and long history. From Mafia, take one of the several daily flights back to Dar es Salaam. For adventurous travellers with more time and a taste for the offbeat, continue from Selous Game Reserve (or from the mainland coast opposite Mafia island, for those who depart Mafia by boat) to Tanzania s far south. Sleepy Kilwa Masoko makes a pleasant destination for a day or two. The town is also the springboard to the famed ruins at Kilwa Kisiwani, just offshore. Another possible excursion from Kilwa Masoko is to nearby Fanjove Private Island, which has a lovely, upmarket lodge, and which is easily combined with both Mafia and Kilwa. Once you ve finished exploring in the Kilwa area, continue by bus south via Lindi to the Mtwara area, where Mikindani with its coconut plantations and long history and the beach at Msimbati, in the Mnazi Bay- Ruvuma Estuary Marine Park, are the highlights.

8 26 UGANDA PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries RWANDA BURUNDI Rusumu Falls Mutukula Bukoba Lake Victoria # Rubondo Island NP Mwanza Musoma Serengeti NP # KENYA Ololosokwan Ngorongoro Crater Karatu Lake Natron Ol Doinyo Lengai Engaresaro Mto wa Mbu Arusha 3 WEEKS Lake Victoria & Serengeti National Park Lake Victoria is a fascinating region with much to offer those who enjoy exploring off the beaten track. It s also easily combined with wildlife watching in Serengeti National Park. From Arusha, head west to Serengeti, stopping en route in Karatu to enjoy the cool and stunning highlands, and in Ngorongoro Crater for wildlife and magnificent views from the crater rim. Following exploration of central Serengeti, continue into the park s Western Corridor, which is especially rewarding around May and early June. Exit the park at Ndabaka gate, from where it s an easy bus ride on good tarmac north to lively Musoma. With extra time and a taste for adventure, consider varying the above approach to the Serengeti to arrive in the park via Lake Natron: after leaving Arusha, continue west on good tarmac toward Karatu. Before reaching Karatu, turn north at the lively market village of Mto wa Mbu toward Engaresero and Lake Natron. Spend at least one night at Lake Natron, ideally two or three. Nearby, and dominating vistas, is the starkly majestic Ol Doinyo Lengai a rewarding trek for adventurous travellers. Once finished exploring the Lake Natron area, continue northwest via Loliondo village and the honey-producing village of Ololosokwan to enter the Serengeti via the park s northerly Klein s gate. Spend several days exploring the northern Serengeti before heading south toward central Serengeti, then joining the main route through the Western Corridor toward Musoma. In Musoma, it s easy to spend several days becoming acquainted with the region s many cultures and enjoying sunrise and sunset views over Lake Victoria. Once ready to move on, take the bus south to Mwanza, with its low-key vibe and good facilities. Continue west around the lake toward pretty, prosperous Bukoba and the heart of the ancient Haya kingdom. There are many cultural tours to see waterfalls, cave paintings and rural homesteads that offer an excellent introduction to Haya life and culture. En route to Bukoba, don t miss Rubondo Island National Park, with its magnificent birding. Once finished, connections are easy into Rwanda (at Rusumu Falls) or Uganda (Mutukula). This itinerary can be rearranged with Mwanza as the starting point, with the advantage that Serengeti safaris are generally cheaper to arrange from Mwanza than from Arusha.

9 27 ZAMBIA Mbeya MALAWI Singida Ruaha NP # Arusha Moshi Babati DODOMA#_ Tukuyu Njombe Mt KilimanjaroR Iringa # Udzungwa Mountains NP Kondoa Rock-Art Sites Morogoro # Mikumi NP KENYA R Usambara Mountains Tanga Pemba Pangani Zanzibar Archipelago Zanzibar Island Dar es Salaam PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries 6 WEEKS Tanzania Circuit Road conditions in central Tanzania have improved greatly, opening up the chance for circuit itineraries combining northern and central Tanzania with the Southern Highlands, the coast and northeastern Tanzania. Four weeks is the minimum, but there s enough to do to keep you busy for twice that long. Arusha makes a convenient starting point. Allow up to a week here, perhaps taking in a northern circuit safari or some cultural tourism activities. From Arusha, head southwest toward Babati, where you can detour for a hike up Mt Hanang. Afterwards, continue on to Dodoma via Singida, which is completely off the beaten track. Take a stroll near Lake Singidani and visit Singida s small museum. Alternatively, head south from Babati directly to Dodoma, stopping en route at the Kondoa Rock-Art Sites. Dodoma itself Tanzania s official capital is worth a day or two, walking the wide streets, admiring the religious architecture and possibly visiting the Bunge (parliament). From Dodoma, continue south on a recently upgraded road to Iringa, as well as the gateway to the lovely Southern Highlands to the southwest. From here, you could travel southwest toward Njombe, Mbeya or Tukuyu. Otherwise, head northeast toward Morogoro, stopping en route at Udzungwa Mountains National Park for several days of hiking, and at Mikumi National Park for wildlife watching. Wildlife watching is also easily incorporated into this itinerary in Ruaha National Park, which is readily accessed from Iringa. In Morogoro, allow a day or two to explore the Ulugurus on a cultural tourism program tour before continuing east to Dar es Salaam or northeast toward Pangani and Tanga. Once on the coast, it s easy to arrange a detour to the Zanzibar Archipelago, with flights from Dar es Salaam, Pangani and Tanga and sea connections from Pangani and Dar es Salaam. After relaxing along the coast, head to the Usambara Mountains for hiking in the hills before continuing on to Moshi, home of the Chagga people and of Mt Kilimanjaro. It s easy to spend several days here exploring the mountain s lower slopes and enjoying Moshi s laid-back vibe. From Moshi, take the bus back to Arusha or to Kilimanjaro airport and your flight home.

10 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 405 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Austin Oakley, Christian Arleth, Claerwen Snell, Edwin & Anne-Marie Schuurman, Hiroki Nishida, Isabel Fofana, Jolien Philipsen, Juergen Schweigler, Julie Syltern, Keisuke Mochida, Lynnae Ruttledge, Mark Peterson, Matthieu Kamerman, Mike Hawkins, Nathan Allinson, Nikitas van Maaren, Ondřej Černík, Robert Martyniecki, Rosy Danby, Rupert Wilkinson, Samantha Caselli, Valentina Schneck, Whitney Haruf, Zuberi Mabie AUTHOR THANKS Mary Fitzpatrick Many people helped during the research and writing of this book. I d especially like to thank Nassor in Newala, Sultan in Dar es Salaam, Abdullah in Somanga and Eustacia in Selous Game Reserve. My gratitude also to Destination Editor Matt Phillips and to my Tanzania co-authors. My biggest thanks goes to Rick, Christopher, Dominic and Gabriel for their entertaining company during research and their patience and good humour during write-up. Ray Bartlett My family. Matt P, editor extraordinaire. Sachi, Maha, Bintee, Dorocella, Zhen, Dawson, Ruge, Sauda, Paschal, Mr Gara, Happiness, Mr Bita, Mariam, Hezron, Placilia, Will I Am, Jullyan, Novart, George, Rachel, Elizabeth, Megan and Evan, Eustocia, Ratna, Dharmesh, Loyce, Jacky, Clara, William, Peter, Paul, Gabriel, Enock, Chesco, Yusuph, Abdullah, Siwema, Khatib, Antonny, Jabiri, Charles, Juma, Francisco, Neema, Nixon, Novart, Nuru, Kalfan, Hussein, Chris and Louise, Miho-san, and the incredible people of Tanzania. Thank you for such a lovely time in your sweet, special country. David Else Many thanks go first to the travellers and Zanzibaris that I met along the way; their insights and stories were invaluable. Big thanks also to my old pal Peter Bennett for local knowledge. And the biggest thanks to Corinne, my wife, for keeping the home fires burning while I m on the road. Anthony Ham Heartfelt thanks to Matt Phillips, my Africa friend and editor of long standing for continuing to entrust me with a corner of the earth I adore. Warmest thanks also to Peter Ndirangu Wamae, another companion of the African road over many years. Carole and Donald Boag were wonderful hosts in the Serengeti, and thanks to Mary Fitzpatrick for her enduring wisdom. Thanks also to Jörg Gabriel, Victor Swanepoel, Tara Walraven and so many others. To my family, Marina, Carlota and Valentina: thank you for sharing my love of Africa and for giving me so many special memories there.

11 406 BEHIND THE SCENES Helena Smith Asante Elidady for a warm welcome and Art for arranging it, Mwisho Msumai for the lowdown on Morogoro, and Joas Kahembe in Babati. In Iringa thanks to Bill Allen, Owen Flagel and Joan Mayer for a great night out, and Rajipa David for a great day out. Jessica Klink, Cori Van Dyke and especially Amy Glasser who shared knowledge of Mbeya and Matema. Thanks too to Amelia in Mbeya, Erica Zelfand for help with Tukuyu, and Moyo Jacob Mwagobele in Matema. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, Cover photograph: Elephants, Tarangire National Park, Licinia Machado/500px THIS BOOK This 7th edition of Lonely Planet s Tanzania guidebook was researched and written by Mary Fitzpatrick, Ray Bartlett, David Else, Anthony Ham and Helena Smith. The previous two editions were written by Mary Fitzpatrick, Tim Bewer, Stuart Butler, Anthony Ham and Paula Hardy. This guidebook was produced by the following: Destination Editor Matt Phillips Product Editor Grace Dobell Senior Product Editor Anne Mason Senior Cartographer Diana Von Holdt Book Designer Wibowo Rusli Assisting Editors Sarah Bailey, Judith Bamber, Michelle Bennett, Nigel Chin, Melanie Dankel, Andrea Dobbin, Alexander Knights, Kristin Odijk, Gabrielle Stefanos, Simon Williamson Cartographer Mick Garrett Cover Researcher Naomi Parker Thanks to William Allen, Hannah Cartmel, Elizabeth Jones, Kirsten Rawlings

12 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 407 Index A Abushiri Revolt 134 accommodation 370-1, see also individual locations language 399 activities 19-21, 37-45, see also individual activities African buffalo (Cape Buffalo), see buffaloes African elephants, see elephants African fish eagles 219, 218 AIDS 355, 393 air travel 380-1, 386 altitude sickness Amani Nature Reserve Amani sunbirds 142 amoebic dysentery 395 amusement parks Bounce 58 Umoja Children s Park 119 animals, see wildlife, individual species antelopes, see also waterbucks Biharamulo 258 Katavi National Park 278 Ruaha National Park 297 archaeological sites Isimila Stone Age Site 295 Katuruka Heritage Site 259 Laetoli 191 Oldupai Gorge architecture 80 area codes 15, 377 art galleries, see museums & galleries arts 357-8, see also dance, music Arusha , accommodation activities 155 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 dangers 164 drinking 163 food garages 164 immigration 164 internet access 164 medical services 164 money 165 nightlife 163 shopping sights 155 tourist information 165 tours 155 travel agencies 165 travel to/from travel within 167 Arusha National Park , 170 ATMs 374 augur buzzards 219 B Babati baboons 335, 334 Jakobsen s (Mwamahunga) Beach 267 Park 176 Mikumi National Park 286 Ol Doinyo Lengai 190 Bagamoyo balloon safaris 196 banded green sunbirds 142 banded mongoose 217, 216 baobab trees 300, 5, 223 Barabaig people 244 bargaining 377 bateleurs 219, 219 bathrooms 377 Bawe 100 beaches 10, 16, 104 Coco Beach 58 Jakobsen s (Mwamahunga) Beach 267 Jambiani 113 Kendwa 104 Kigamboni 73-4 Kilwa Masoko Mafia 317 Makoba Beach 119 Mangapwani 100 Matemwe 105 Matvilla Beach Mbudya 73 Paje 110 Pongwe 108 Sange beach 130 Ushongo Beach 134 Vumawimbi Beach 125 beer 366 bicycle travel, see cycling Biharamulo bilharzia 395 birds, see individual species birds of prey 219 birdwatching 17, 45, 152 Arusha National Park Katavi National Park 279 Park 176 Lake Rukwa 280 Manyara Ranch Conservancy 175 Mbizi Forest Reserve 280 Ngezi Forest Reserve 124 Rubondo Island National park 257 Serengeti National Park 192, 196 Tarangire National Park 172 black-and-white colobus 208, 208 black kites 181 black rhinoceros 215, 214 blue monkeys 167, 176, 186, 208, boat cruises & safaris 45 Dar es Salaam 58 Kigamboni 73, 74 Menai Bay 117 Pangani 133 Saadani National Park 130 Selous Game Reserve 322 boat travel 384-5, 387-8, see also dhows, ferries books 344, 392 border crossings to/from Burundi 381, 384 to/from Democratic Republic of the Congo 384 to/from Kenya 381, 384 to/from Kisii 382 to/from Malawi 382, 384 to/from Mombasa 381 to/from Mozambique 382-3, 384 to/from Nairobi to/from Rwanda 383 to/from Uganda 383, 384 to/from Voi 382 to/from Zambia 383, Brachiosaurus brancai 334 budget 15, 18, 371, 373, 375 buffaloes 50, 211, 210 Arusha National Park Katavi National Park 278 Park 176 Mikumi National Park Mt Kilimanjaro National Park 233 Ngorongoro Crater 181 Ruaha National Park 297 Selous Game Reserve 322 Selous-Niassa Wildlife Corridor 314 Serengeti National Park 192 Tarangire National Park 172 Udzungwa Mountains National Park 289

13 408 INDEX B- E Bujora 253 Bukoba , 260 Bulabo Dance Festival 253 bus travel 381, 388 bushbabies, see greater galagos bushbucks 167, 181, 185 bushwalking, see hiking, walking safaris business hours 15, 376 butterflies 99 Bwejuu C camping 370, 371 canoeing 33 Arusha National Park 171 Kilombero Valley 294 Matema 310 Mbamba Bay 311 Ras Kutani 74 Ukerewe Island 257 Cape Buffaloes, see buffaloes car travel 381, 388-9, 402 caracals 205, 205 cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals caves Amboni Caves 140 Mangapwani Coral Cave 100 cell phones 14, 377 central Tanzania 49, accommodation 237 climate 237 food 237 highlights 238 travel seasons 237 Chagga people 230, 232, 254 Chake Chake , 120 Changuu 99 Chapwani 99 cheetahs 203, 203 Ruaha National Park 297 Serengeti National Park 192-3, 360 Tarangire National Park 172 West Kilimanjaro 236 Chief Kimweri 148 Chief Mkwawa 297 children, travel with 46-7, 61 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 chimpanzees 12, 45, 207, 275, 12, 207 Gombe National Park 273 Rubondo Island National Park 257 Chole 318 cholera 392 Chumbe 100 churches & cathedrals Anglican Cathedral 80-1, 2 Anglican Church 239 Azania Front Lutheran Church 54 Bunena Church 259 Catholic Cathedral (Dodoma) 239 Catholic Cathedral (Tabora) 265 Catholic Cathedral (Zanzibar Town) 80 Lutheran Cathedral 239 St Joseph Cathedral 54 St Paul s Church 335 cichlids 255, 276, 309 climate 14, 19-21, 371, see also individual regions coffee 230, 367 colobus monkeys 360, 361 Arusha 161 Jozani-Chwaka National Park 99 Ngezi Forest Reserve 124 conservation see marine parks & reserves, national parks & reserves consulates costs 15 courses cooking 86, 105 craft 86 language 86, 373 Crater Highlands credit cards 375 crocodiles 257 Grumeti River 193, 197 Katavi National Park 278 Lake Rukwa 307 Lukwika-Lumesule Game Reserve 342 Mikumi National Park 286 Pangani 133 Rubondo Island National Park 257 Ruaha National Park Saadani National Park 130 Selous Game Reserve 322 Udzungwa Mountains National Park 289 cultural tourism programs 18 Arusha Engaruka 187 Irangi 244 Karatu 178 Lake Eyasi 180 Lake Natron 188 Morogoro 284 Mto wa Mbu 175 Pangani 133 Ruaha National Park 298 culture 344-5, currency 14 customs regulations cycling language 402 Zanzibar Town 85 D dalla-dallas 389 dance dangers, see health, safety Dar es Salaam 48, 52-74, 53, 56, 62, 72 accommodation 52, 59-61, 63-4 activities 57-8 children, travel with 61 climate 52 dangers 68 drinking 66 emergencies 67 entertainment 66-7 events 58 food 52, 64-6 highlights 53 history 53-4 immigration 67 internet access 67-8 medical services 68 money 68 nightlife 66 planning 52 postal services 68 shopping 67 sights 54-7 telephone services 68 tourist information 68 tours 58 travel agencies 68-9 travel seasons 52 travel to/from travel within 70-1 walking tours 55 Dar es Salaam Marine Reserve 73 dengue fever 393 dhows 45, see also boat cruises & safaris, boat travel diarrhoea dik-diks 152, 168 dinosaurs 334 diptheria 393 disabilities, travellers with diving 10, 18, 42-5, 17, 43 Chumbe 100 costs 43-4 courses 43-4 environmental concerns 44 Kendwa 104 Kigomasha Peninsula 125 Kizimkazi 116 Lake Tanganyika 276 Mafia 318 Mafia Island Marine Park 319 Matemwe 105 Mikindani 339 Mnemba 106 Nungwi 101 operators 44-5 Paje 111 Pangani 133 Zanzibar Island 103 Zanzibar Town 85-6 Dodoma , 240 dolphins 115 drinks driving, see car travel, motorcycle travel duikers Arusha National Park 168 Jozani Forest 99 Serengeti National Park 192 dysentery 395 E Eastern Arc mountains 360 economy 344 education 345

14 409 Eid al-fitr 89 elands Biharamulo 258 Katavi National Park 278 Lukwika-Lumesule Game Reserve 342 Mkomazi National Park 152 Mt Kilimanjaro National Park 233 Ngorongoro Conservation Area 181, 182 Serengeti National Park 192 Tarangire National Park 172 electricity 372 elephants 28, 212, 213 Arusha National Park 168 Biharamulo 258 Katavi National Park 278 Park 176 Lukwika-Lumesule Game Reserve 342 Manyara Ranch Conservancy 174 Mkomazi National Park 152 Mikumi National Park Mt Kilimanjaro National Park 233 Ngorongoro Crater 181 Ruaha National Park Rubondo Island National Park 257 Saadani National Park 130 Selous Game Reserve 322 Selous-Niassa Wildlife Corridor 314 Serengeti National Park 192 Tarangire National Park 172 Udzungwa Mountains National Park 289 West Kilimanjaro 236 embassies 372 emergencies 15 language 401 environment environmental issues etiquette 371 events, see festivals & events exchange rates 15 F ferries, see also boat travel Busisi Ferry 256 Kamanga Ferry 256 Kigamboni (Magogoni) ferry 74 festivals & events Bulabo Dance Festival 254 Eid al-fitr 89 Festival of the Dhow Countries 21 goat races 58 Mwaka Kogwa 114 Nyama Choma 58 Sauti za Busara 19 Swahilil Fashion Week 58 filariasis 393 films 344 fishing 45 Dar es Salaam 58 Kigamboni 74 Mafia 318 flamingos 189, 221, Arusha National Park 169 Lake Eyasi 180 Park 176, 178 Lake Natron 188 Ngorongoro Crater 181 Saadani National Park 130 flying foxes 124 food 365-8, see also individual locations etiquette 365 language sights 64-6 vegetarian 368 Fumba G Galanos Sulphur Springs 140 galleries, see museums & galleries gardens, see parks & gardens gay travellers 373 gazelles 211, 359 Ngorongoro Crater Oldupai Gorge 190 Ruaha National Park 297 Serengeti National Park 192 geography 359 gerenuk 211, 210 giant tortoises 99 giardiasis giraffes 212, 212 Arusha National Park 167 Biharamulo 258 Manyara Ranch Conservancy 175 Mikumi National Park 286 Rubondo Island National Park 257 Saadani National Park 130 Serengeti National Park 192 Tarangire National Park 172 Gol Mountains 191 golden jackals 217, 216 Gombe National Park Goodall, Jane 271, 272, 275 government Grant s gazelles 181, 192, 297, see also gazelles Great Rift Valley 361 greater galagos 208, greater kudus, see kudus green-headed oriole 142 Grumeti Game Reserve 193 guesthouses guides & porters 39, 169, 235 H habitats 222 Hadzabe people 180 handicrafts 86, 94, 96, 163 hartebeests Mkomazi National Park 152 Ngorongoro Conservation Area 181 Saadani National Park 130 Serengeti National Park 191 Tarangire National Park 172 hawksbill turtles 100, 317 Haya people 262 health environmental hazards infectious diseases insurance 391 traditional medicine 396 vaccinations 391 water 397 websites 392 heat exhaustion 397 Hehe people 297 hepatitis 393 hiking 16-17, 38-42, see also walking safaris altitude sickness books 302 budgeting 42 costs 38 Crater Highlands 186 Crater Lake 308 guides 39 hypothermia 397 Irente Viewpoint 146 Kindoroko Forest Reserve 151 Kitulo National Park 302 Luhombero Peak 289 Lumemo (Rumemo) Trail 289 Lushoto 146 Mlalo 147 Mt Hanang 245 Mt Kilimanjaro Mt Meru Mt Nkungwe 273 Mt Rungwe 308 Mwanihana Peak 289 Ngozi Peak 308 operators 41-2 porters 39 responsible trekking 39 Sanje Falls 289 Shagayu Peak 148 Soni 143 Tukuyu 308 Udzungwa Mountains National Park 289 Uluguru Mountains 286 hippopotamuses 50, 215, 359, 215 Arusha National Park 168 Babati 243 Katavi National Park 278 Kilwa Masoko 327 Park 176 Lukwika-Lumesule Game Reserve 342 Mikumi National Park 287 INDEX E-H

15 410 INDEX H-M hippopotamuses continued Ngorongoro Crater 181 Rubondo Island National Park 257 Ruaha National Park 297 Saadani National Park 130 Selous Game Reserve 322 Udzungwa Mountains National Park 289 history Abushiri Revolt 134 Arusha Declaration colonial era 348 democracy 353 European migration 347 independence Kilwa Kisiwani 329 Lushoto 144 Maji Maji rebellion 312 Mikindani 339 Pangani 133 Selous Game Reserve 322 Swahili culture 347 Tanga 136 Tanganyika African Association (TANU) Ujamaa 350 hitching 389 HIV 393 holidays 376 honey badgers 217 horse riding 45 hyenas 174, 181, 187, 192, see also spotted hyenas hypothermia 397 I Ikorongo Game Reserve 194 immigration 380 impalas 192, 250, 287 infectious diseases insect bites 397 insurance 373 internet access 373 internet resources 15 Iraqw people 346, 354 Iringa 291-7, 292 Isimila Stone Age Site 295 Islamic holidays 376 islands 16 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 itineraries 22-7, 22-7 Itungi 309 J jackals 181, 192, 215, 298, 216 Jambiani Jibondo island Jozani-Chwaka National Park 99 Juani island 318 K Kalambo Falls 277 Kalema 276 Kalenga 297 Karatu Kasanga 277 Kasumulu 309 Katavi National Park Katesh 244 Katonga 267 Katuruka Heritage Site 259 kayaking 45 Kigamboni 73-4 Zanzibar Town 85 Kendwa Kibirizi 267 Kidike Flying Fox Sanctuary 124 Kigamboni 73-4 Kigoma , 269 Kigomasha Peninsula Kilimanjaro area , 227 Kilombero Valley 294 Kilwa Kisiwani , 13 Kilwa Kivinje Kilwa Masoko 326-9, 327 Kipilli KiSambaa language 147 kitesurfing Dar es Salaam 71 Nungwi 101 Paje 111 Kitulo National Park Kiwengwa 107 Kiweni 122 Kizimkazi klipspringers 167, 190, 192 Kondoa rock-art sites Korogwe 141 kudus 152, 172, 211, 236, 297, 211 Kwa Mungu Mountain 143 Kwai Kwembago 146 Kyela L Laetoli 191 Lake Babati 243 Lake Chala 232 Lake Eyasi Park Lake Natron Lake Nyasa Lake Rukwa Lake Singidani 245 Lake Tanganyika 276 Lake Victoria 13, 49, , 13 accommodation 246 climate 246 food 246 highlights 247 travel seasons 246 languages 147, 180, 244, 347, courses 86, 373 Leakey, Mary 190-1, 275 legal matters leopards 203, 202 Arusha National Park 168 Manyara Ranch Conservancy 174 Mikumi National Park 286 Mt Kilimanjaro National Park 233 Ngorongoro Crater 182 Serengeti National Park Tarangire National Park 172 Udzungwa Mountains National Park 289 lesbian travellers 373 lesser flamingos, see flamingos lilac-breasted rollers 221, 220 Lindi 332-3, 333 lions 177, 192, 203, 202, 203, 224 Biharamulo 258 Katavi National Park 278 Park Manyara Ranch Conservancy Mikumi National Park 286 Ngorongoro Crater 181 Ruaha National Park Saadani National Park 130 Selous-Niassa Wildlife Corridor 314 Serengeti National Park 191, 192 Tarangire National Park 172 West Kilimajaro Liuli 312 literature, see books Loliondo Game Controlled Area Luguru people 286 Lukuba Island 248 Lukwila-Lumesule Game Reserve 342 Lupanga Peak 286 Lushoto 144-7, 145 Lutindi Cultural Tourism Project 142 M Maasai people 187, 198, 2, 356 Machame 231 Mafia Mafia Island Marine Park 319, 318 National Park Mahiwa 341 Maji Maji Rebellion 312 Makambako Makonde people 341 Makonde Plateau Makunduchi malaria Mambo 146, 148 Mangapwani 100 Manyara Ranch Conservancy maps 374 Marangu marine parks & reserves Dar es Salaam Marine Reserve System 73 Mafia Island Marine Park 319 Maziwe Marine Reserve 135 Mnazi Bay-Ruvuma Estuary Marine Park Tanga Coelacanth Marine Park 133 markets 11 Central Market (Arusha) 164 Central Market (Mwanza) 249

16 411 Crater Highlands 175 Darajani Market 85 Fish Market (Dar es Salaam) 54-7 Fish Market (Mtwara) 337 Karatu 178 Kariakoo Market 67 Kilombero Market 164 Lake Eyasi 180 Majengo Market 241 Market Area 293 Mt Meru Curios & Crafts Market 164 Mwaloni Market Mwigobero Market 248 Ngaramtoni Market 164 pottery market 310 Tengeru Market 164 Tumbe Fish Market Usambara Mountains 143 Masasi Matema Matemwe Mbaga Mbamba Bay Mbeya 303-7, 304 Mbeya Peak Mbizi Forest Reserve 280 Mbozi meteorite 307 Mbudya 73 measures 372 media 372 medical services 392 Menai Bay meningococcal meningitis 394 Michamvi Peninsula Mikindani Mikumi National Park Mikumi Town 288 Misali Island 119 Mkoani Mkomazi National Park 152 Mlalo Mnazi Bay-Ruvuma Estuary Marine Park Mnemba 106 mobile phones 14, 377 Momella route 168 money 14, 372, monkeys, see blue monkeys, colobus monkeys, vervet monkeys Morogoro 284-6, 285 Moshi , 228 accommodation drinking food 226-7, 229 immigration 230 medical services 230 money 230 shopping tourist information 230 travel agencies 230 travel to/from travel within 231 mosques Aga Khan Mosque 79 Gaddhaffi Mosque 239 Ijumaa Mosque 85 Ismaili Mosque Jamatkhana (Ismaili) Mosque 239 Sunni Mosque 239 motorcycle travel 381, Mpanda 277 Msangamkuu Peninsula 340 Msimbati Peninsula 340 Mt Hanang Mt Kilimanjaro National Park 11, 40, 233-5, 11, 37, Mt Meru Mt Nkungwe 273 Mt Rungwe 308 Mtae 148 Mto wa Mbu Mtwara 333-8, 336 Mufindi 296 Muheza 141 museums & galleries Afri Mak Arts & Crafts Group 334 Arusha Declaration Museum 155 Caravan Serai Museum 129 Catholic Museum 128 Iringa Boma 291 Kagera Museum 259 Livingstone Memorial Museum 271 Maji Maji Museum 313 Mwalimu Julius K Nyerere Museum 249 Nafasi Art Space 54 National Museum & House of Culture 54 Natural History Museum 155 Oldupai Museum Palace Museum 81-5 Pemba Museum 119 Princess Salme Museum 79 Sukuma Museum 253 Urithi Tanga Museum 137 Village Museum 54 music Musoma Mwanga 151 Mwanza , accommodation dangers 254 drinking food internet access 254 medical services money 255 safaris sights tours travel agencies 255 travel to/from travel within 256 N national parks & reserves Amani Nature Reserve Arusha National Park , 170 Gombe National Park Jozani-Chwaka National Park 99 Katavi National Park Kitulo National Park Park Lukwila-Lumesule Game Reserve 342 National Park Manyara Ranch Conservancy Mazumbai Forest Reserve 146 Mbizi Forest Reserve 280 Mikumi National Park Mkomazi National Park 152 Mt Kilimanjaro National Park 233-5, 37 Ngezi Forest Reserve 124 Ngorongoro Conservation Area 9, Ruaha National Park 13, Rubondo Island National Park Saadani National Park Saa Nane National Park 250 Selous Game Reserve 12, 322-6, 323 Selous-Niassa Wildlife Corridor 314 Serengeti National Park 9, , 196, 194-5, 9 Tarangire National Park 172-4, 173 Udzungwa Mountains National Park Ndanda 341 Newala 342 newspapers 372 Ng ambo, see Zanzibar Town Ngezi Forest Reserve 124 Ngoni people 312 Ngorongoro Conservation Area 9, 181-8, 184-5, 8-9 Ngorongoro Crater 181-6, 31 Njombe northeastern Tanzania 49, accommodation 126 climate 126 culture 126 food 126 highlights 127 history 128 travel seasons 126 northern safari circuit northern Tanzania 49, accommodation 153 climate 153 food 153 highlights 154 travel seasons 153 Nungwi 100-4, 10 Nyerere, Julius 249, 344, 348-9, 350, 352, 358 O Oldupai Gorge olive baboons 207, 207 Olpopongi Maasai Cultural Village 236 onchocerciasis (river blindness) 394 opening hours 15, 376 oryx 152, 172 ostriches 221, 297, 221 INDEX M-O

17 412 INDEX P-T P painting 358 Paje Pangani Pare Mountains Pare people 150 parks & gardens Botanical Gardens 57 Forodhani Gardens 79 pelican 180, 245 Pemba , 118 travel to/from 117 travel within Pemba Channel Conservation Area 119 Pemba flying foxes 122, 124 photography 376 planning, see also individual locations budgeting 15 calendar of events children, travel with 46-7 costs 15 internet resources 15 itineraries 22-7 safaris Tanzania basics Tanzania s regions travel seasons plants poliomyelitis 394 politics Pongwe 108 population 345 porters & guides 39, 169, 235 postal services 376 public holidays 376 R rabies radio 372 raptors 168-9, 219 Ras Kutani 74 religion 345, river blindness 394 road rules 389 road safety 389 rock art 13, 18 Fenga Rock-Art Complex 242 Igeleke Rock Art 293 Kolo Rock-Art Site 242 Kondoa Rock-Art Sites Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Pahi Rock-Art Site Thawi Rock-Art Site 242 rock hyrax 215, Rongai Route 234 Ruaha National Park 13, , 13, 223 Rubondo Island National Park ruins 13, 18 Chwaka Ruins 124 Engaruka 187 Kaole Ruins Kilwa Kisiwani 329, 13 Kunduchi Ruins 71 Maruhubi Palace 80 Mikindani 339 Mkame Ndume Ruins 121 Mtoni Palace Ras Mkumbuu Ruins 121 Tongoni ruins 136 Ruvula 340 S Saa Nane National Park 250 Saadani National Park Saadani Village 132 saddle-billed storks 221 safaris 28-36, see also boat cruises & safaris, walking safaris, wildlife drives boat safaris 33 canoe safaris 33 costs 29 destinations 28 do-it-yourself safaris 34 Iringa 293 itineraries 33-4 operators 34-6 tipping 29 vehicle safaris 30-2 walking safaris 32-3 safety sailing 45 Same Sandawe 242, 244, 354 Sauti za Busara 19 schistosomiasis (bilharzia) 395 sculpture 358 sea turtles 359 Jozani-Chwaka National Park 99 Ras Kutani 74 Songo Songo 331 seaweed 107, 112 secretary birds 219, Selous Game Reserve 12, 322-6, 323, 12 Selous-Niassa Wildlife Corridor 314 Serengeti National Park 9, , 196, 194-5, 9 Seronera River 192 servals 205, 205 Shagayu Peak 148 Shira Plateau Route 234 shopping, see bargaining, markets, individual locations language 401 Singida 245 Sitalike 279 slave trade 77 sleeping sickness 395 snake bites 397 snorkelling 18, 42-5 Changuu 99 Chumbe 100 costs 43-4 courses 43-4 Kigamboni 73-4 Kipili 276 Kiweni 122 Mafia 318 Marimbani 317 Matema 310 Matemwe 105 Maziwe Marine Reserve 135 Mbamba Bay 311 Menai Bay 117 Misali 119 Mnazi Bay-Ruvuma Estuary Marine Park 340 Nungwi 101 operators 44-5 Pangani 133 Ras Kutani 74 Songea Songo Mnara 330 Songo Songo Soni southeastern Tanzania 50, accommodation 315 climate 315 food 315 highlights 316 travel seasons 315 southern highlands 50, accommodation 281 climate 281 food 281 highlights spas 85 spotted hyenas 217, Stone Town 10, 77, 79, 80, 10, see also Zanzibar Town Stone Town Sukuma people 253, 254, 354, 357 Sumbawanga 280 superb starlings 221, 220 Swahili language Swahili time 378 T taarab 95 Tabora 265-7, 266 Tanga , Tarangire National Park 172-4, 173 taxes 375 taxis telephone services 14, 377 television 372 Thomson s gazelle 211, see also gazelles time 377, 378, 401 tipping 375 toilets 377 topis 192, 278 topography 359 Tosamaganga 295 tourist information 377, see also individual locations tours 385-6, see also cultural tourism programs, walking tours, individual locations coffee plantations 230, 367 cycling 58, 85, 142, 147, 175 touts 97, 376 traditional medicine 396 train travel 390 travel advice 378 travel to/from Tanzania travel within Tanzania travellers diarrhoea trekking, see hiking tribal groups 354, see also individual groups

18 413 trypanosomiasis (sleeping sickness) 395 tuberculosis 395 Tukuyu Tumbatu 105 Tumbe Tunduru 314 turtles 359, see also hawksbill turtles Misali 119 Mnemba Island 106 Nungwi 101, 103 Ras Kutani 74 Songo Songo 331 TV 372 typhoid 395 U Udzungwa Mountains National Park Ujiji 271 Ukerewe Island Uluguru Mountains 286 Umbwe Route 233 Unesco World Heritage Sites 362 Usambara Mountains Usangi 151 V vacations 376 vaccinations 391 vegetarian food 368 vehicle safaris 30-32, 31 vervet monkeys 207, 207 visas 14, 378 visual arts 358 volcanoes Empakaai Crater 187 Mt Kilimanjaro 233 Mt Rungwe 308 Ol Doinyo Lengai 190 Olmoti Crater 188 volunteering W walking safaris 32-3, 38, 41 Arusha National Park 171 Katavi National Park 278 Park 176 Manyara Ranch Conservancy 175 Mkomazi National Park 152 Ruaha National Park 297 Rubondo Island National Park 257 Selous Game Reserve 322 Serengeti National Park Tarangire National Park walking tours 55, 55 Wami River 130 warthogs 215, 214 water 397 water parks 71 waterbucks 211 waterfalls 50 Kalambo Falls 277 Luhuji Falls 301 Maio Falls 168 Sanje Falls 289 weather 14, 19-21, 371, see also individual locations websites 15 weights 372 West Kilimanjaro western Tanzania 50, accommodation 263 climate 263 food 263 highlights 264 travel seasons 263 Wete 122-3, 123 white-backed vuiltures 219, 218 wild dogs 217, 217 wildcats 152, 205, 286, 297, 322, 205 wildebeest 211, calving 19 Park 176 migration 20, 197 Mikumi National Park 286 Ngorongoro Crater Serengeti National Park 191-2, 196, 197, 199 Tarangire National Park 172 wildlife 16, , , see also individual species arboreal primates 208-9, 208, 209 big cats 202-3, 202, 203 birds of prey , 218, 219 cud-chewing mammals , 210, 211 ground primates 206, habitats 222-3, hoofed mammals , wildlife drives Arusha National Park Park 176 Manyara Ranch Conservancy 175 Ruaha National Park 298 Saadani National Park 130 Selous Game Reserve 322, 325 Serengeti National Park 195 West Kilimanjaro 236 wildlife watching 21, 33, 152 wine 239 women in Tanzania 356 women travellers 379 woodcarving 358 work 379 World s End Viewpoint 308 Y yellow fever 395 yoga 101 Z Zanzibar Archipelago 48, , 76 accommodation 75 climate 75 etiquette 88, 101 food 75 highlights 76 history 76-7 travel seasons 75 Zanzibar Butterfly Centre 99 Zanzibar Island , 78 Zanzibar Town 77-98, 82-3 accommodation activities 85-6 courses 86 dangers 96 drinking 93-4 entertainment 94 food 91-3 internet access 96 medical services 96 money 96 nightlife 93-4 papasi 97 postal services 96 shopping 94-6 sights telephone services 96 tourist information 96-7 tours 86-7, 97 travel agencies 97 travel to/from 97-8 travel within 98 zebras 212, 201, Arusha National Park 167, 169 Biharamulo 258 Katavi National Park 278 Manyara Ranch Conservancy 175 Mikumi National Park Ngorongoro Conservation Area Serengeti National Park 192 Tarangire National Park 172 West Kilimanjaro 236 INDEX T-Z

19 414 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Map Legend Sights Beach Bird Sanctuary Buddhist Castle/Palace Christian Confucian Hindu Islamic Jain Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Ruin Shinto Sikh Taoist Winery/Vineyard Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Other Sight Activities, Courses & Tours Bodysurfing Diving Canoeing/Kayaking Course/Tour Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Skiing Snorkelling Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Activity Sleeping Eating Sleeping Camping Hut/Shelter Eating Drinking & Nightlife Drinking & Nightlife Cafe Entertainment Entertainment Shopping Shopping Information Bank Embassy/Consulate Hospital/Medical Internet Police Post Office Telephone Toilet Tourist Information Other Information Geographic Beach Gate Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall Population Capital (National) Capital (State/Province) City/Large Town Town/Village Transport Airport Border crossing Bus Cable car/funicular Cycling Ferry Metro station Monorail Parking Petrol station Subway station Taxi Train station/railway Tram Underground station Other Transport Routes Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed road Road under construction Plaza/Mall Steps Tunnel Pedestrian overpass Walking Tour Walking Tour detour Path/Walking Trail Boundaries International State/Province Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall Hydrography River, Creek Intermittent River Canal Water Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Reef Areas Airport/Runway Beach/Desert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Glacier Mudflat Park/Forest Sight (Building) Sportsground Swamp/Mangrove Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

20 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Anthony Ham Northern Tanzania Anthony is a freelance writer and photographer who specialises in Spain, East and Southern Africa, the Arctic and the Middle East. In 2001, after years of wandering the world, Anthony finally found his spiritual home when he fell irretrievably in love with Madrid on his first visit to the city. Less than a year later, he arrived there on a one-way ticket, with not a word of Spanish and not knowing a single person in the city. When he finally left Madrid 10 years later, Anthony spoke Spanish with a Madrid accent, was married to a local and Madrid had become his second home. Now back in Australia, Anthony continues to travel the world in search of stories. Helena Smith Central Tanzania, Southern Highlands Helena is an award-winning writer and photographer covering travel, outdoors and food she has written guidebooks on destinations from Fiji to northern Norway. Helena is from Scotland but was partly brought up in Malawi, so Africa always feels like home. She also enjoys global travel in her multicultural home area of Hackney and wrote, photographed and published Inside Hackney, the first guide to the borough. Her 1000-word autobiography won Vogue s annual writing contest and she s a winner of the Independent on Sunday s travel writing competition. As well as working as a guidebook author, Helena is a travel and portrait photographer. She was senior photographer at the Edinburgh Film Festival, where she worked for three consecutive years, and has exhibited her work at Rich Mix and Floradita.

21 OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end broke but inspired they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony s belief that a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse. OUR WRITERS Mary Fitzpatrick Curator, Dar es Salaam, Northeastern Tanzania, Southeastern Tanzania Originally from the USA, Mary spent her early years dreaming of how to get across an ocean or two to more exotic locales. Following graduate studies, she set off for Europe. Her fascination with languages and cultures soon led her further south to Africa, where she has spent the past two decades living and working as a professional travel writer all around the continent. She focuses particularly on East and Southern Africa, including Mozambique and Tanzania. Mary has authored and co-authored many guidebooks for Lonely Planet, including Mozambique; Tanzania; South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland; East Africa; West Africa; and Egypt. Mary also wrote the Plan, Understand and Survival Guide chapters for this book. Ray Bartlett Western Tanzania, Lake Victoria Ray has been travel writing for nearly two decades, bringing Japan, Korea, Mexico, and many parts of the United States to life in rich detail for top-industry publishers, newspapers and magazines. His acclaimed debut novel, Sunsets of Tulum, set in Yucatán, was a Midwest Book Review 2016 Fiction pick. Among other pursuits, he surfs regularly and is an accomplished Argentine tango dancer. Follow him on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, or contact him for questions via his website. Ray currently divides his time between homes in the USA, Japan and Mexico. David Else Zanzibar Archipelago David is a professional freelance writer specialising in travel, trekking, cycling, walking and outdoor adventure activities. Since the 1980s he s been writing guidebooks for Lonely Planet and other publishers, plus a wide range of travel topics for magazines, newspapers and websites. In three decades of covering Africa, David wrote many Lonely Planet guidebooks including West Africa and Southern Africa and detailed guides such as Malawi, Zambia, Gambia & Senegal and Trekking in East Africa. He now lives in the UK, where he s worked on local LP titles including several editions of guides to Great Britain and England. Beyond guidebooks, David writes regular articles for lonelyplanet.com. His words and photos have also appeared in the travel section of The Independent newspaper, Travel Africa magazine, Cycling Weekly magazine and Lonely Planet magazine. David continues to travel widely by train, plane, car, bike or on foot. Recent trips have taken him from France and Spain to Mexico and Morocco, via the ice-cold thrills of Greenland and the epic landscapes of India. OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN th edition Jun 2018 ISBN Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs as indicated Printed in Singapore Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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