Le Clerc Road. Wonderful Pend Oreille east shore on. The first time... Washington s Upper Columbia

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1 Washington s Upper Columbia Wonderful Pend Oreille east shore on Le Clerc Road is characterized by a good, high-friction surface, dozens of well-engineered curves, dense timber lining the road, prolific wildlife, big mountain and water vistas, and relatively light traffic that is heavier on weekends. Seek this one out! Le Clerc Road The first time... The first time you kissed, the first time you heard that song, the first time you rode a motorcycle... All these firsts leave an indelible imprint deep in the synapses of the brain s memory files. The first time you encounter an especially inspiring stretch of motorcycle asphalt is like that, too. I remember well the first time we cruised the Le Clerc Road south along the east shore of the picturesque Pend Oreille River from Ione to Newport. It was Since then we ve ridden it a half dozen times more. It was the mid-point of a hot five-day tour that had us riding out of Montana to Idaho, north into British Columbia, then back across the border into Metaline Falls, Wash. We d left Kelowna, B.C., in the early a.m. and by the time we hit the States, it was broiling. At Ione, which is on the west side of the Pend Oreille on Hwy. 31, just a mile south of town is a left turn to the east which takes a rider to a bridge spanning the river just upstream of the Box Canyon Dam. Cross and hang a right, south, and you re on Le Clerc Road North which will take you a little over 50 miles to Newport. Be warned, the speed limit is set at just 50 mph, no doubt due to the abundance of deer since traffic Top Tours 65

2 Washington s Upper Columbia isn t that heavy and the roadway engineering isn t really technical. Most riders will be tempted to go faster... but beware! The pavement is smooth with a coarse chip seal that provides maximum grip. Turns and there are many of them of various radiuses are well engineered and constant-radius: assess the geometry, pick your line, select your speed, hit the entrance right and rail through with no steering corrections. Joyful! There are a couple of tight esses at creek crossings that warrant some brakes and a downshift. Heavy timber can picket both sides of the road hiding wily and sometimes spooky whitetails prone to stopping when they should keep going, bolting when they shouldn t move, or wheeling and heading back where they came from. This is wild and rugged country. Elk, bears and lions, and probably wolves, also inhabit it. You never know so keep your eyes peeled and brakes We love riders! covered. Let your passenger do the scenery gawking. And the panoramas are splendid. There s nothing like ample water, big trees, bigger mountains, twisting tarmac and light traffic (can be moderately heavy on weekends) to put your spirit in a good place. About 35 miles south of Ione, Le Clerc Road crosses east-west Kings Lake Road, which itself crosses the Pend Oreille and runs into little Usk on the river s west side. Food and fuel are available there. Proceed straight ahead at the stop sign and you re now on Le Clerc Road South. It s just 17 miles or so into Old Town/Newport But it s 17 more excellent miles of good surface, numerous curves, timber, hayfields and river scenery We cut our own meat 66 Top Tours Right along the Highway in Grand Coulee Great breakfasts, lunches & dinners Homemade soups & fresh salad bar Sunday all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet Full-beverage lounge Widely known for our: chicken-fried steaks pork-fried steaks chicken-fried chicken pepperjacks.webs.com 113 Midway Ave., Grand Coulee, WA

3 What s a your perfect definition of... ride Stunning mountain, forest, river and lake scenery? Remote, peaceful riding with few cages? Good asphalt with tons of turns? Roadways designed by engineers who knew what they were doing? Small communities with all the amenities? Businesses with character run by characters? Affordability? Riders rounding a curve on the Flowery Trail between Chewelah and Ione, described by Northern Rockies Rider magazine as perhaps the best motorcycle route in all of Washington. Photo by Susan Swan, Ione, Wash. Ahhhh...the Pend Oreille! We have it all! Northeast Washington s finest motorcycling! Metaline Falls Metaline Ione Tiger Cusick Usk Newport Please be our guests. Come ride the Pend Oreille Country. Bring your friends. You ll come back again and again. It just doesn t get any better! Sponsored by the Pend Oreille River Tourism Alliance whose purpose is to create a responsible tourism economy in the Pend Oreille River Community in ways sensitive to the culture, heritage and environment of the region Top Tours 67

4 Washington s Upper Columbia (and clearly plenty of critters). We ve usually experienced more local traffic here on Le Clerc South compared to Le Clerc North, and there are more residences, but this is still superb cruising. At Hwy. 2, take a right, west, across the bridge over the river, and within two blocks you re back into Washington. The state line forms the division between Newport, Wash., and Oldtown, Idaho. The towns are a little odd to navigate, but they offer everything any rider needs including lodging, meals, saloons and entertainment, and at decent prices. We ve personally experienced it all with complete satisfaction Here a touring rider can head east on Hwy. 2 to Priest River and Sandpoint, Idaho, or select Hwy. 2 southwest, then south into Spokane, just 42 miles distant. Expect substantial traffic on Hwy. 2 east or south. Welcome riders! In the heart of the Grand Coulee business district within walking distance to all the amenities! As low as $65 a night! Okay, back to the Le Clerc 50 mph speed limit: It gets enforced, even at 8 a.m. on a quiet Sunday morning. It was probably about 1999 or There s a stretch of Kalispel Indian Reservation above the Kings Lake Road junction and wife Marilyn and I met a very nice young tribal officer there. I didn t relish the idea of cooling my pipes in a tribal jail until Monday morning to then meet a tribal judge, which I was probably entitled to. But, a warning and no ticket. He didn t even scold me. Maybe the nicest LEO I ve ever crossed. If you re in extreme northeast Washington and want an altogether fine motorcycle experience, make a note: Ride the Le Clerc Road! It has it all! Some parking at your door Outdoor picnic area with grill Heated pool High-speed internet In-room coffee, microwaves, fridges Boating, golf, laser light show minutes away 108 Spokane Way Grand Coulee, WA Toll-free trailwestmotel.com info@trailwestmotel.com 68 Top Tours

5 Wyoming - Big Horns Cruising, playing in the Big Horns at 9,000 feet By Cole Boehler It came home again and again: we are so very fortunate to live where we do with easy access to some of the best motorcycling in the Northern Rockies, the United States and the world. It was back in April of 2012 when we settled on August 3-5 to ride the Beartooth Highway straddling Montana and Wyoming, and the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway and the Big Horn Mountains in Wyoming. We launched from my brother s Livingston home at 8:30 a.m. We used our local knowledge to avoid all but a few miles of I-90 to Columbus, Mont., where we would close our loop about 36 hours later. Incredible route to get where we were going We quickly pounded out the 123 miles from Livingston to Red Lodge, Mont., situated at the foot of the east ascent to 11,000-foot Beartooth Pass. A hearty breakfast there put things right for an epic day. For the first time in about six weeks, forecasts called for cool weather, some clouds, perhaps even some rain. It was probably 45 to 50 degrees at noon at 11,000 feet on Beartooth Pass, but was somewhat warmer at 8,000-foot Dead Indian Pass on the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway, though the wind was howling there, as it always is. A little rain fell, just enough to make the tar snakes on the Chief Joseph descent slick and unnerving. We dropped down to Cody, Wyo. 115 miles beyond Red Lodge then took a brief break before grinding out the last 68 miles to Shell, Wyo., where we had booked cabins for the night. Fighting a vicious crosswind had my shoulders aching when we arrived at our night s lodging 306 miles from our launch. Shell is a hamlet of 83, according to the U.S. Census, and is so named because of the abundance of fossil shells (even dinosaur tracks) found in the area s primitive geology. It lies along Hwy. 14 about 15 miles east of Greybull. While we always seek out rural roads and small towns, typically we favor communities with a few more amenities and choices than Shell. There, eating establishments are two; lodging facilities, two, not counting dude ranches. We stayed at the Shell Campground and RV Park which has three duplex cabins. They are clean and modern. There is no television (so what) but cell service could be had. The beds were good and the owners quite accommodating. Coffee and rolls were available by 6 a.m. Tim and Mary Miller setting up for a turn. Just above their heads can be seen more to come. Top Tours 69

6 Wyoming - Big Horns The price: about $69 including tax for each of the couples, altogether very reasonable. Shaded tent and RV camping sites are available along with showers, picnic tables and so on. Upon check-in we asked about dining options: the Antler Inn, a roadhouse directly across the highway, or Dirty Annie s, about a mile east. We opted for Dirty Annie s, not a very appealing name for an eatery, but we d enjoyed a good breakfast there a couple of years earlier. All diners in our group expressed complete satisfaction with the food and its preparation. Bellies full, we rode the dark mile back to our cabins and mixed some cocktails. Scrubbing away the chicken strips We hit the road by 8:30 a.m. again, greatly anticipating the ride up Shell Canyon which knifes into the western flank of the Big Horns. The geology is magnificent said to be 550 million-yearsold Cambrian sandstone and incredibly rugged. The colors are brilliant, more so in the spring or during a wet summer when emerald greens contrast with amber rock. The serpentine asphalt that sluices through the canyon bottom along Shell Creek is even more stunning. The lower 70 Top Tours five-mile section from the canyon mouth to 120-foot-tall Shell Falls, with its overlook, interpretive center, small store, ample parking and bathrooms, is among our alltime favorites. It s all strung-together curves and Welcome to Lovell, Wyoming! Where horsepower runs free! 287 East Main, Lovell Wyoming Brandin Iron Restaurant Don t miss our steak! Full bar available! 483 Shoshone Ave Shoshone Bar MOST HAUNTED BAR IN WYOMING 159 East Main Street Photo provided by Ben Snyder 4 Corners Bar & Grill #1 for Bikers! 195 West Main Street Local Gourmet Honey Candy 262 East Main Street

7 Shell Canyon gash on the west flank of the Big Horns as seen from a few miles distant. some of them quite tight, posted down to 20 mph. The surface is high-friction and smooth, perfect for inducing aggressive lean angles, grinding foot pegs and beveling the edges of the boot soles. Drivers need to be attentive, but passengers can appreciate the magnificent and colorful rock formations that have been eroding for millions of years. This superb and technical section of twisties would be best run early in the day, mid-week. Saturday traffic is significant as recreationists abound, many pulling horse or ATV trailers, some with smoking, scorched and smelly brakes, some with diesel-belching exhausts. Once past the falls, ever climbing, the turns continue but exhibit more radius which encourages higher corner speeds and yields more opportunity to take in the scenery. The roadbed even widens a little allowing for more margin of error. Another five miles and you attain the open upper plateau of the Big Horns at about 9,000 feet. The temperatures here will easily be 20 or 30 degrees cooler than on the basin floor either east or west of the range. Expect numerous short straights punctuated by the occasional sweeper easily negotiated at the posted 65 mph. It s all just mellow, relaxed alpine cruising to Burgess Wyoming - Big Horns Junction, 25 miles beyond the falls. There are several quality lodges and resorts along Hwy. 14 traversing the Big Horns crest, many catering to the snowmobile and ATV crowds, but there are always clots of bikes parked out front. We ve taken rest and refreshments breaks at several of these including Bear Lodge at the Junction of Hwy. 14 and 14A, where we ve enjoyed good meals and beverages on several occasions. The log Roadway, rocks and Shell Creek. You can do the left/right tango through this section of canyon. Longhorn Liquors Bikers Welcome Bar Hours Sunday Thru Thursday 10am-12am Friday & Saturday 10am-2am Happy Hour Daily From 5pm to 6pm Buy 1 get 1 free Etta s Place - Lunch & Dinner Menu Available 214 East Main Street Sundance, WY Top Tours 71

8 Wyoming - Big Horns Shell Falls as seen from the overlook at the interpretive center. facility with restaurant, saloon, gift shop and rooms has a rustic, yet unpretentious, and comfortable ambiance. We plan to stay there sometime when route timing permits. This has been our plan in the past, and was again this day: At Burgess, turn east and run down the east slope to little Dayton, Wyo., to grab breakfast/lunch, then simply turn around and head back up to Burgess, then pick up Hwy. 14A to descend the west slope past the Medicine Wheel monument to Lovell, Wyo., 5,000 feet lower. The last time we rode from Burgess to Dayton in 2009, construction crews were in the process of tearing up and rebuilding this 35-mile portion of Hwy 14. An especially twisty section was being re-engineered as a long, relatively straight but steep grade. At the time, we feared all the best curves were to be eliminated. The grade here is probably 8 percent: gain eight feet of elevation for every hundred feet forward. Shell Campground A Quiet & A Motorcyclists Haven at the end of a Long Ride Relaxing Spot at the Base of Big Horn Mountains Cabins with Queen Beds & Private Baths Non-Smoking Free Wifi Shaded Tent Sites Full Service RV Sites Shower Facilities Ice COLD BEER!! Terry & Margie invite you to stay at the... Shell Campground 102 1st St. - Shell, Wyoming cabin@shellcampground.com shellcampground.com 72 Top Tours

9 Wyoming - Big Horns handlebars and seat that traction would be tenuous if things were pushed much. The grade on this east descent appeared to be 8 percent, maybe even 9. We relied on gears and engine braking as much as discs and brake pads to keep speeds under control. Traffic was present and would have substantially impeded a serious sporting attack anyway. Burgess Junction to Dayton is 26 miles with perhaps 18 of it dramatic mountain Excellent turns featuring first class engineering, and the chip-seal was brand new. Looking off the east shoulder of the Big Horns with the basin bottom a mile below and a horizon like the ocean. Simply stunning. While some were, we were relieved to find perhaps 80 percent of the original roadbed yet intact, albeit somewhat widened and with a fresh asphalt mat. Unfortunately this day, the blacktop sported a brand new chip seal, laid perhaps just a couple of weeks earlier. The surface still had some loose gravel that clattered in fenders and ting-ed off exhaust headers. In spots, the loose chips formed small patches. So we dialed it back a bit as occasionally tires sent twitchy warnings through the Top Tours 73

10 Wyoming - Big Horns curves before being deposited on the flat basin bottom. And you lose a mile of elevation! We had a quality 11 a.m. lunch at a little restaurant in Dayton that was slammed with tourists and motorcyclists. A hustling staff and cooks kept up and we were again on our way back to Burgess Junction on the crest of the mountain range within the hour. We have also stayed at a quality, affordable motel and enjoyed excellent meals in the little town of Ranchester, just a few miles beyond Dayton. For those who want more big city luxuries, Sheridan, Wyo., population 17,500, is just 16 miles further. As always, it was more fun and confidence-inspiring heading up as opposed to down the steep and gnarly grade. And it felt good to escape the gathering heat below, re-entering the thin and cool atmosphere at 9,000 feet. The cruise from Burgess to the west lip of the alpine plateau along 14A is all gently meandering highway of decent quality with unchallenging sweepers throughout. There is one particularly dramatic scenic overlook where it seems a traveler can see the Beartooth and Absaroka Mountains some 60 miles distant, and where the basin floor lies 5,000 feet below. Traffic along 14A is perhaps one-third the volume on 14. Ahhhh. It is about 30 miles from Burgess to the foot of the mountain range: 20 miles of that is upper plateau and 10 miles is the descent, a 10 percent grade with numerous tight switchbacks. Talk about technical riding! You must be on your toes as any serious mistake will be catastrophic. It is simply delightful riding. Big, heavy cruisers will want to mosey, whereas the sport bike crowd will flog the maximum out their machines. We probably first rode this segment back in the early 1990s, and remembered a several-mile section of the lower descent that was exceptionally rough. Nothing has changed in the intervening years, though it is clear highway crews continue to work to mitigate the effects of what is obviously a constantly shifting subsurface. In a couple of spots, so much asphalt has been added that original guardrail posts are mere stubs. The steep grade gradually subsides as the highway approaches the sagebrush floor of the basin. Rising temperatures keep pace with falling elevations. Once off the mountain, it is a 22-mile sprint into Lovell, Wyo., population 2,400, where bathrooms, snacks, beverages and fuel will likely be desired. Or a rider can continue 17 miles further to Powell. Altogether, the leg from the east edge of the Big Horns at Dayton, to Lovell in the west is 84 miles. By this time it was 2 p.m. and we still had to cover 165 miles to our Saturday night base back at my brother s home in Livingston. No problem. We picked up Hwy. 310 out of Lovell, then rode through tiny Crowley (speed trap!), Deaver and Frannie, Wyo., before crossing into Montana. We stayed on 310 through Warren, Bridger and Fromberg, Mont., then picked up Hwy. 212 at Rockvale to Joliet, then little and pleasant Hwy. 421 back to Columbus at I-90 to close our loop. Burnout Wednesday August 7, 2013 Burnouts Start at 4pm and followed by a Wet t-shirt contest 74 Top Tours Live music starting at 12pm in front of Dime Horseshoe

11 We needed a break and a cool beverage which we enjoyed at Montana s best (or second best, depending upon whom you ask) saloon, the New Atlas Bar in Our group, minus the author, on the west shoulder looking west toward the Absaroka- Beartooth Mountains 60 miles distant. Columbus. One more break at Big Timber 55 miles further west, and we rolled into Brother s at about 7:30 p.m., 309 miles from Shell. The pizza was delivered and devoured Wyoming - Big Horns at 8 p.m. Yes, we live well. My late dad used to say, I wonder what the poor folks are doing today? whenever we were engaged in some particularly pleasurable pursuit. I often wondered what the rich folks were doing, and knew it wasn t anything better. Thank goodness the middle class can still afford bikes and can afford to ride them some distances to wonderful places once in awhile. Yes: Beartooth, Going-To-The-Sun, Lolo Pass... world class routes. Add Hwys. 14 and 14A of the Big Horn Mountains to the list. It s been on mine for more than 20 years and we ve done these a dozen times. Good people, exceptional curves by the hundreds, quality roadway engineering and surface, fabulous scenery, relatively light traffic, highly remote and refreshingly cool during the height of summer... These are the ingredients that make for true world class riding, and it s right in our own backyard. Northern Big Horn Mountains Motorcyclists Welcome! Restaurant Full Service Bar While riding the magnificent Northern Big Horn Event/Family Packages Mountains of WYOMING, experience a stay at Condo Units one of three mountain lodges. Cabins OPEN ALL YEAR! Motel Rooms Tent & RV Sites - Showers Fishing Licenses - ATV Rentals Indoor Pool - Hot Tub Bear Lodge Resort 5600 US Hwy 14A /5444/8444 bearlodgeresort.com Arrowhead Lodge 6002 US Hwy arrowheadlodgewyoming.com Elk View Inn 4622 W US Hwy elkviewinn.com Top Tours 75

12 Wyoming - Chief Joseph Scenic Byway The gorgeous little sister Wyoming s Chief Joseph Scenic Byway From Dead Indian Pass Overlook, travelers can see the switchbacks and turns of the byway below and to the west. Photo by Katie Armstrong of NSBO By Cole Boehler Imagine... You ve had your eye on this fabulous specimen of the opposite sex. She s available if you can exploit a few connections. You make the arrangements and secure a date. And, oh yes, she s everything you imagined and more: great curves, spectacular beauty, stately height; your heart goes pitter patter as you explore her delights. She s the best ride you ve ever had! But, funny thing, during your rendezvous you discover she has a little sister who s almost every bit as alluring; true, a little shorter but graced with the same visual delights and curves of the big sister, only pursued by far fewer suitors. With less competition, she s very accessible and can be more intimately experienced as soon as you leave the company of the big sister. Yes, a two-fer kind of deal. We d be talking about the Big Sister Beartooth Highway of Montana and Wyoming, and the Little Sister Chief Joseph Scenic Byway, Wyoming Hwy Until the early 1990s, the Chief Joseph 76 Top Tours

13 Scenic Byway had a seven- or eightmile stretch of gravel at the 8,060-foot summit. In fact, the first time we rode this magnificent 47 miles probably about 1990 that gravel was being prepped for blacktop. We d guess 90 percent of the motorcyclists who run the Beartooth Highway from Red Lodge, Mont., continue on to Cook City and Silver Gate, Mont., at Yellowstone Park s northeast entrance. Too bad. They may not appreciate what they just passed by. Consider this: Begin your Beartooth run as per usual out of Red Lodge. But instead of following all 70 miles to Silver Gate, at the 52-mile mark peel off toward the southeast on the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway through Wyoming s Sunlight Basin. Even the names of these places are magical. The Chief Joseph will then intersect Wyoming Hwy. 120 just 17 miles from Cody. From there you can head 52 miles straight west to Yellowstone Park s east entrance, a delightful route in itself, or select options to the east that lead to some incredible riding on Wyoming Hwys. 14 and 14A up, into and all through the Big Motorcyclists Welcome! Outpost Restaurant & Lounge Grocery and Convenience Store Package Liquor Great Deck Overlooking the Clark s Fork River Sunlight Bridge spans a creek of the same name. At the east end of the bridge is a rest area favored by riders ready for a break. Photo by Katie Armstrong of NSBO Horn Mountains. From the junction with the Beartooth, the Chief Joseph immediately joins the course of the Clark s Fork of the Yellowstone. Traffic seems to constitute perhaps one-fourth of what you ll find on the Beartooth, and therein lies much of the We re not a museum... But we are one of the oldest and Wyoming - Chief Joseph Scenic Byway attraction. Take note, just five miles from the Beartooth Highway is little Crandall, Wyo., hardly a town and not even on the map, but rather a C-store, campground and cabins, fuel, restaurant and lounge and gift shop the Painter Outpost. Highly authentic! One of the best examples of a turn-of-the-century back bar in the nation! Over 50 animal mounts, some highly unusual! Cabins - RV Park Two Ladies Treasures Gift Shop Fuel Sales Chief Joseph Highway, Route 296, 6 mi. S off RT 212 Cody, Wyoming tap handles, many local micros Wine and spirits Pool Darts ATM Video Gambling Logo provided by Cody Enterprise files. Top Tours 77

14 Wyoming - Chief Joseph Scenic Byway The northwest segment is relatively flat but features dozens of constant-radius and sweeping turns with proper banking that induce significant lean at the speed limit. The surface is usually in good condition and striping and signage is current, ample and helpful. From southeast of Dead Indian Pass riders will witness a panorama of contrasting colors in a prehistoric landscape. Wyoming Office of Tourism photo It s tempting to ogle the rugged canyon and river scenery, but best to, as The Doors Jim Morrison warned, keep your eyes on the road and your hands upon the wheel. If you re in sport mode, there are some opportunities to pass slower traffic in order to continue the corner carving. As always, you ll encounter more recreationist traffic on weekends and during the peak tourism times. You ll soon top a ridge and descend via a series of switchbacks to the Sunlight Creek Bridge which spans the creek and canyon of that name. Across the bridge is a large rest area usually crammed with motorcycles and excited riders. Toilets without running water are available here. The gorge gouged by Sunlight Creek presents awesome scenery and photo opportunities, but shooting a canyon feature this deep requires some effort and ambition to capture its essence. Most riders will take the time to walk out onto the bridge and over the canyon and are rewarded, though some may experience vertigo due to the vastness and depth of the crevasse. Right after the rest area, get your head in the game because things get exciting, technical and about as much fun as you can have on a capable motorcycle as you climb the steep ascent toward Dead Indian Pass. (We wonder why the political correctness crowd hasn t been raising hell over this name.) 78 Top Tours

15 The pathways have changed to pavement but the landscape is still the same... Ride it! Wyoming - Chief Joseph Scenic Byway The Buffalo Bill s Irma Hotel and Cody Motor Lodge invite you to wipe off the trail dust with us in the Wyoming town where history lives on! Irma Hotel - est The Irma Hotel is your gathering place before or after any event in the Cody area. Enjoy good times in the Silver Saddle Saloon, fine dining in the restaurant and a comfortable stay in cozy rooms. Step back in time to the heart and spirit of Cody, Wyoming and see why everyone says, Meet me at The Irma! The famed Cody Gunfighters perform nightly, Monday- Saturday, in front of the Irma Hotel at 6pm from June through September FREE SHOW Clean & comfortable rooms - ground floor rooms with parking available for motorcyclists In room coffee In-house laundry Pet friendly Free Wifi 2 blocks from Irma Hotel Irma Hotel Restaurant and Saloon est Sheridan Avenue - Cody, Wy Buffalo Bill s Cody Motor Lodge 1455 Sheridan Avenue - Cody, Wy CODY Top Tours 79

16 Wyoming - Chief Joseph Scenic Byway We love running this stretch southeast and uphill, modulating corner entry speeds with gearbox and throttle rather than gears and brakes, although the opposite direction will also produce pleasure and thrills aplenty, if not warped rotors, smoking pads and boiling brake fluid. There are almost 20 fine turns and seven of them are true hairpins. Unless you are an expert, back off and enjoy the alpine scenery. Otherwise, adopt full sport mode, get your butt off the seat, your belly on the tank and your knee down to the pavement. Scrub off the chicken strips and blister the edges of the tread... Or just cruise the whole thing in top gear, putt-ing through the landscape, taking in the scenery. Either way, strafing or cruising, this one is superb. Most will wisely take a break at the top of the pass to catch their breath, stretch out the muscular tensions and take in the dramatic landscape, comparable to anything found on the Beartooth. We ve rested here a half dozen times and the wind, as you d expect, is always howling. There is a large pullout, an overlook and restrooms. The descent southeast toward Hwy. 120 also features a series of switchbacks as you navigate down the side of the ridge. In the spring or early summer, bright green grass contrasts brilliantly with the amber rock protrusions that remind one of southern Utah landscapes. The highway meanders its way down to the junction with Hwy. 120, coursing through big, open sagebrush hills. At the junction, head south to Cody to continue your adventures. Cody is a fun town heavy on the tourism factor and is priced accordingly. Get reservations if you plan on staying. Restaurant offerings are numerous and span the quality and price range. Rather than head west to Yellowstone Park, we ll far more often head east toward Greybull, Wyo., and some fabulous riding in the Big Horn Mountains. Check out Hwys. 14 and 14A. Some great loops can be devised. Read elsewhere in this edition about the Big Horns potential. 80 Top Tours It is cold, and we have no blankets; the little children are freezing to death. My people, some of them, have run away to the hills, and have no blankets, no food. No one knows where they are perhaps freezing to death. I want to have time to look for my children, and see how many of them I can find. Maybe I shall find them among the dead. Hear me, my chiefs, I am tired; my heart is sick and sad. From where the sun now stands, I will fight no more forever. Chief Joseph of the Nez Perce, after a 1,170-mile flight, as he surrendered with his people at the Bears Paw Mountains in Montana.

17 Wyoming - Wind River, Cloud Peak Combo Cloud Peak, Wind River Combo makes extraordinary 2 fer 1 route! Our intuition was correct: The landscape and route were gorgeous! River courses always make for splendid scenery and twisting roadways. By Dottie Rankin Traveling north from Shoshoni into Boysen State Park on Hwy. 20, I thought, I hope it gets better because this is really not spectacular scenery, nor are the roads entertaining. However, you sense a hint of anticipation when you see the road disappear into the mountain canyon just ahead, though you really have no idea of the splendor in store. Oh, the fabulous canyon! The Wind River Scenic Byway is Wyoming s newest byway and is 34 miles of roadway that s famous for its fascinating geology and history, and its sheer rock walls, which tower some 2,000 feet above the road. It s a good thing there are plenty of places to safely pull off to gawk at the scenic Saloon Incredible Food Outdoor Patio Package Liquor Drive Up Window marvels because it seemed like we were stopping to take pictures every couple of miles or so. This is no hell-raising hootenanny of a Shorty s Biker Friendly Bar in a Little Western Town Best watering hole in town! Saloon 103 E. Broadway, Thermopolis, WY Just 2 blocks south on the Riverwalk from the Day s Inn Top Tours 81

18 Wyoming - Wind River, Cloud Peak Combo highway, as far as motorcycling roads go, but it is certainly a party to a rider s senses. It does not have hairpins and pigtails but it has sufficient graceful, sweeping curves to keep any experienced rider happy. Dave and author Dottie rummaging in the luggage for cameras prior to heading into the canyon. The striking roadside vistas add to the compensation. Studying the map indicates the Wind River Canyon bisects the southeast end of the Owl Creek Mountain Range, and the southwest tail of the Big Horn Mountains one range to the left, another to the right. For me, the route was just plain fun. It even comes with three tunnels that are always fun to bore through on a bike. It was hard to keep my focus on riding instead of the oldest rock formations in the world. According to the plentiful roadside signs, the primitive formations date back to the Precambrian period, which translates into some 2.9 billion years ago or, in my layman s language, one helluva long time ago! Things mellow near Thermop As you approach Thermopolis the Wind River progressively widens. At times it meanders along Hwy. 20, at times racing directly to its destination. There were plenty of recreationists enjoying the Wind River, which inexplicably later becomes the Big Horn River. This point is called The Wedding of the Waters and would seem to imply that two rivers are joined; however it is the same river with merely a name change. Curious. The byway surface condition was Historic Mansion House Inn and Motel Motorcycle Friendly 209 N Main Buffalo, WY Mention this ad and receive 15% off room rate 82 Top Tours Alive with the Spirit of the Old West Experience: A Ride in the Big Horn Mountains Shop Downtown Historic Buffalo Big Horn Music Festival Butch Cassidy and the Hole-in-the-Wall TA Ranch & the Johnson County Cattle Wars Historic Mansion House Inn 313 North Main St. P.O. Box 845 Buffalo, Wyoming or Web site: mansionhouse@vcn.com

19 generally excellent. If I could find any fault it would be that the segment is only 34 miles long! Hot water and cold drinks The byway ends just north of Thermopolis. This town is home to the world s largest mineral hot springs located in Hot Springs State Park. This was an excellent place to stop and enjoy the hot water, the swinging footbridge across the Big Horn River and to grab a cold beverage. After limited loitering in the town of hot waters, we resumed our journey to find the next scenic byway on our riding itinerary. Cloud Peak Byway is aptly named Next up was the Cloud Peak Scenic Byway (Hwy. 16). We hit Hwy. 20 out of Thermopolis to Worland at which point we turned and headed east on 16 to the quaint burg of Ten Sleep. This 47-mile glory of a road snakes Wyoming - Wind River, Cloud Peak Combo through the southern section of the Big Horn National Forest on Hwy. 16. The ride got really interesting right after we left Ten So you like strings of curves from tight to broad sweepers? You ll love the Cloud Peak Scenic Byway. Pronghorn Lodge Rodeway Inn & Suites OXBOW Restaurant Motorcycle Friendly Facility 150 E. Main Street, Lander Stay With Us By Choice Free Internet Free HBO Free Continental Breakfast Top Tours 83

20 Wyoming - Wind River, Cloud Peak Combo Hot Springs State Park. Nothing like hot mineral water from the bowels of the Earth to soak away riding aches and pains. Running some curves as we close in on Ten Sleep at the west foot of the southern Big Horns. Sleep to the east and entered Ten Sleep Canyon. This canyon runs from about three miles outside of Ten Sleep to Meadowlark Lake near the summit and is part of the justifiably famous Cloud Peak Scenic Byway. The road ascends 3,000 feet in less than 10 miles through a series of switchbacks. The riding is magnificent! The road is quality two-lane tarmac, and because of the steepness of the canyon there are plentiful passing lanes so slower traffic can be overtaken. The scenic byway is defined by one tantalizing bend, twist and turn after another. I found the route challenging but not cheek-clenching. Cloud Peak climbs over the Big Horn Mountains and crests at 9,666- foot Powder River Pass. There is a large parking area at the summit where riders 84 Top Tours

21 take in the magnificent view of the Big Horns. Meadowlark Lake presents another excellent photo op. What goes up must go down It is worth noting, from the summit the road makes a steep descent into Buffalo and Johnson County with a 6 to 7 percent grade in some stretches. So in addition to judging the turns to set your speed and line correctly, you ll be dealing with the steep decline, meaning gear selection, engine revs and application of brakes come into play. Our day of exploring two of the scenic byways of Wyoming turned out to be a grand excursion. We learned a lot about the roads and history of Wyoming, and it was an opportunity to sharpen our inventory of motorcycle riding knowledge and skill. Priceless! Motorcycling Montana Comprehensive 500+ Page Touring Guide Motorcycle friendly format Organized for the road Comprehensive reveiws 512 full-color pages Over 350 photos 120 map excerpts Spiral bound Convenient, compact 8.5 x 5-inch format motorcyclingmontana.com Wyoming - Wind River, Cloud Peak Combo Hot Springs Convention Center - Thermopolis WY Great Couples Getaway Come Enjoy our Hot Water Holiday Two night stay Prime Rib Dinner for Two Complimentary champagne Two passes to Hot Springs County Museum Two discount coupons to the Wyoming Dinosaur Center Host Hotel for the Wyoming State H.O.G. Rally 2013 Safari Club Restaurant & Lounge Great Food - Relaxing Atmosphere Full Bar - Come view our unique big game trophy collection! Year Round Outdoor Mineral Hot Tub - Health Spa Private Hot Tubs and Steam Room Licensed Masseuse on Premise - Free Wi-fi Free Continental Breakfast - Activities for All! Days Inn East Park - Thermopolis, Wy Top Tours 85

22 Wyoming - Wind River, Cloud Peak Combo Another way to skin the cat... Shoshone Backway starting in Lander is another access avenue By Bryk Cook Special to Top Tours Starting in Lander, there is another worthy road less traveled to Shoshoni heading north on Hwy Within a couple of miles you slow down and pass through a wide spot in the road called Milford. There is a yellow flashing light at the crossroads. As you get back up to speed you cross the North Fork of the Popo Agie River and enter Jim & Barbi Hays, Owners 5201 S. Douglas Hwy. Gillette, WY HAPPY HOURS DAILY 4-7pm Sinks Canyon State Park six miles southwest of Lander on Hwy The Middle Fork of the Popo Agie River disappears into a limestone cavern The Sinks only to reappear in a pool called The Rise a quarter-mile down the canyon. Jennie Hutchison photo the Wind River Indian Reservation, home of the Shoshone and Arapaho tribes. Shortly after entering the reservation you pass the Shoshone Rose Casino. About eight miles out of Lander, turn right onto the Blue Sky Highway (Hwy. 132) which winds its way past the Wyoming Indian Elementary and High Schools before coming to the small Indian village of Ethete. Going through the red light, heading north out of Ethete, a rider will cross the Little Wind River and will pass by the Little Wind Casino. You begin to climb quickly in elevation to the top of the bluff, and there get a great view to the west of the Wind River Mountains, home to Gannett Peak, elevation 13,804 feet, the tallest mountain in the state. 86 Top Tours 133 Years Authentic & Beautiful Period Suites Antique Furnishings Large Private Bathrooms Central Heating & Air Conditioning The Famous Virginian Restaurant Steaks Elk/Bison Specials Prime Rib Lamb Pasta Seafood and Wonderful Desserts! Occidental Saloon 1908 Frontier Saloon... Complete With Bullet Holes! Food, Spirits and Music Of Western Hospitality At It s Best! FOUNDED 1880 OCCIDENTAL HOTEL & SALOON Come experience a memory when you stay with us RESERVATIONS: N. Main Street, Buffalo, WY

23 Rafting recreation on the Wind River in the canyon. George Grady Grosman photo large rock outcropping, then cross Poison Creek before you enter town. By the way, make sure you get your speed shut down as you come into Shoshoni: say it with me speed trap! Note: There are two different ways of spelling Shoshone (the tribal name) and Shoshoni (the town name), and Arapaho (the tribal name) and Arapahoe (the town name). Wyoming - Wind River, Cloud Peak Combo Lander, population 7,500, is one of the prettiest little communities in Wyo. If you ride through here in late spring/ early summer you ll see the hills alive with beautiful colors from the different varieties of Indian Paintbrush, Arrow Leaf Balsam Root, blooming cactus, Rabbitbrush, and the ever present Sagebrush. Some nice curves will guide you through the reservation when you cross another river, the Big Wind. A couple of miles later you come to the junction of Hwy. 26. Ride north through the intersection and travel approximately five miles where you ll you turn right onto the Missouri Valley Road (Hwy. 134). Not far down the road you pass the Busted Ass Ranch with its colorful painted barn with, um, a picture of the busted ass on the side. As you cruise along to the east, you ll get a nice view of Ocean Lake to your right, south. The Missouri Valley road is approximately 24 miles of nice two-lane, winding through farming and ranching communities. When you come to the junction of Hwy. 789, also known as Campbell s Corner, you ll turn left onto Hwy Heading northeast toward the town of Shoshoni, you pass through more farming and ranching communities along with the B & K Shoreline Bar/Grille & Campground before crossing Boysen Reservoir s causeway and nearby rest area. Boysen Reservoir is named after Asmus Boysen, a man from Denmark who showed up in the area in the late 1890s. He also has a mountain and a state park named after him. As you near Shoshoni, you ll pass a Top Tours 87

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25 Wyoming - Snowy Range Snowy Range find riding treasure in Southern Wyoming By Dottie Rankin It looks like a scene from the Beartooth Highway... Why not? It s almost as good. The jumping off point for our June 28-July 1 Snowy Range Scenic Byway adventure was Laramie, Wyo. However, reaching Laramie from our Gillette home base required a 250-mile trek. We would traverse the Wyoming prairie surrounding our Gillette home in northeast Wyoming, then edge along the foothills of the Laramie Mountains to the south before topping them and dropping into Laramie, the conclusion of our first leg. The Snowy Range Scenic Byway follows Hwy. 130 for 29 miles through the center of the Medicine Bow National Forest. Snowy Range was the second designated National Forest Scenic Byway in the U.S. Construction began in 1920 and was completed in six years. It was originally called the Great Skyroad. The Byway is located in southeastern Wyoming and can be accessed by exiting I-80 at Laramie or at Walcott Junction approximately 22 miles east of Rawlins. It is interesting to note that the Byway is one of the shortest of Wyoming s scenic byways, both in length and in the number of months during the year it can be driven. It is not plowed during the winters so is closed from approximately November Even the approach to Snowy Range Pass is dramatic. Top Tours 89

26 Wyoming - Snowy Range to April; plan accordingly. This scenic drive is a two-lane and travels over the second highest mountain pass in the state. The byway is one of the most scenic in Wyoming and, indeed, maybe even the nation. Bright and early the next morning, we got the show on the road. West of Laramie, State Hwy. 130 is pretty much a straight shot and the scenery consisted of windswept and starkly barren high plains. Heading for the top That desolation came to an abrupt end about 25 miles from town where we started climbing and winding into the captivating and pristine alpine country of the Snowy Range. Up to this point the road conditions were generally very good with ample shoulders and were pleasant to travel on. The Snowies, as the locals call them, are a part of the Medicine Bow-Routt National Forest. It is easy enough to imagine how the mountain range got its name judging from the snow still clinging to the peaks in July. The quaint, charming, old mining town of Centennial is located 27 miles west of Laramie and was our first stop. This is where the landscape transforms with increasing beauty and the road becomes far more interesting to ride. At 8,000 feet, Centennial could be regarded as the gateway to the Snowy Range Mountains and boasts year-round recreational opportunities. This town was at first lightly populated by settlers seeking timber on Centennial Mountain which rises majestically above the town to the west. Railroad ties, the Homestead Act and gold all added to the growth of this historic town. Where the going gets good We stopped in Centennial long enough to get a look around, absorb some of its history and take note of the interesting buildings. Just past the town, Hwy. 130 started winding and we worked our way up into the range, navigating a few sweeping curves on our way to Snowy Range Pass. The views from the top were breathtaking and picture perfect with 24 Hour Fueling with Clean Fuel Area Groceries, Snacks, Soda, Fresh Brewed Iced Tea, Soft Serve Ice Cream & Old-Fashioned Candy, Hunting & Fishing Licenses, Maps, Clean Restrooms, ATM, Ice 90 Top Tours 303 1st Street - Saratoga WY kamartin_2@yahoo.com

27 Wyoming - Snowy Range Cruising, touring or sport, Snowy Range suits a wide selection of riding styles. 12,031-foot Medicine Bow Peak as a backdrop. It is the highest peak in the Snowy Range. Our next task was locating Libby Flats Observation Site which officially marks the highest point on the byway at 10,847 feet. This spot offers a great view of the Snowy Range mountains including Medicine Bow Peak and Sugarloaf Mountain. There is a set of binoculars mounted in a round stone structure atop the observation deck at Libby Flats. There was astounding scenic landscape in every direction. The beauty was so abundant and stunning that it was hard to know just where to look. I was glad the road was in good condition and the decent shoulders allowed safe passage for the numerous bicyclists. There were also plenty of turnouts and roadside parking areas to accommodate the slow and gawking. Roll on into The Wolf Saratoga s Gathering Place for Good Times Fine Dining, Hotel & Old West Saloon Superb Lunch & Dinner with Fresh Salad Bar Try Kathleen s World Famous Cheesecake Clean, non-smoking guest rooms Reservations or Information East Bridge, Saratoga, WY Top Tours 91

28 Wyoming - Snowy Range Medicine Bow Peak tragedy As beautiful and serene as Medicine Bow Peak is, it leaves a legacy shrouded in tragedy and sadness. In 1955 United Airlines Flight 409 departed Denver and was headed to Salt Lake City when it crashed into the top of Medicine Bow Peak near the town of Centennial. It killed all 66 people on board. There were 63 passengers and three crew members. At the time, this was considered the deadliest plane crash in U.S. history. Victims included five members of the Mormon Tabernacle Choir and military personnel. Convenient pullouts make snapping memory-making great scenics easy. Lakes on top of the world Mirror Lake and Lake Marie, which are considered sister lakes and are right up the road from Libby Flats, were side-destinations. Both these lakes are glacier-fed. During the early summer months there is pink watermelon snow up on the mountains that is due to bacteria that thrive on year-round glacial snow. Open 24 Hours - 7 Days Per Week All Year Long Dressing Rooms and Showers Available Heal Up After a Long Day on the Road Free of Charge with Donation Box Available Picnic & Recreation Area Adjacent to Hot Pool Want something a tad cooler? Try our Not so Hot Hot Pool 92 Top Tours East Walnut St Saratoga WY Where the Trout Leap in Main Street

29 There were scores of campers and day users. The natural beauty that surrounds the lakes is breathtaking. The signs said there was fishing, swimming and paddle boats. Snowy Range has it all As a whole this route is a good mix of sweeping curves, a few sections of tight twisties and straight-aways with the occasional hairpin thrown in for thrills. It is a ball to ride. The surface is in good condition, the grade does not exceed 6.5 percent and has ample shoulders to pull over to the side. The visibility was a bit iffy at times with the blind curves and we had to be careful when passing. We often took advantage of the many pull-offs to let people pass and many others used them to let us by. Touring the Snowy Range Scenic Byway took us a couple of hours but we stopped a lot to take pictures and generally play Wyoming - Snowy Range tourist. The traffic was of medium volume and tended to bunch up around the most scenic spots. In all, it was a fantastic journey and we encountered a huge diversity of landscapes, everything from prairie and barren high plains to alpine splendor and lakes at the feet of glaciers. We headed back to Laramie with plenty of stories, dozens of photos and with our heads full good memories. It was a good place to be. Saratoga, Wyo. The other gateway to Snowy Range Saratoga, situated along Hwy. 230, is the western access to the Snowy Range Scenic Byway. Breathtaking views await and attract artists and photographers. The town is surrounded by Elk Mountain, the Snowy Range mountains and the Sierra Madre mountains. There are hiking trails for those who are beginners or more experienced. Recreational choices abound. When it is time to dismount and relax, don t worry, there are plenty of hospitality choices here. A good assortment of excellent restaurants, lodging, shopping as well as a calendar full of local events to satisfy diverse interests are all available. There are motels, Victorian hotels, B&Bs, resorts, RV and tent camps, dude ranches, cabins... whatever a traveler could desire. Just some of the must do experiences in Saratoga: Free hot springs, aka the Hobo Pool. There is a changing room complete with showers and bathroom facilities. The hot pool averages 106 degrees at its coolest part to 119 degrees in its warmest. The Not So Hot pool is 100 degrees. Adjacent to the Hobo Pool is the Saratoga Municipal Swimming Pool which is one of the few remaining outdoor pools in Wyoming. Just the ticket after a long day in the heat and wind. Both pools are located on Walnut Street. North Platte River. Saratoga has over 100 miles of freestone river flowing throughout the Platte Valley with blue ribbon trout galore. The river is easy to reach in several places at public accesses. Save 10% on lodging by booking online at: saratogaresortandspa.com or call Toll Free: Pic Pike Road (Box 869) Saratoga, WY This country offers some of the most scenic riding you can encounter - from plains to peaks. Teepee Private Hot Pools Healing Waters Spa Snowy Mountain Pub & Brewery Outdoor Pavillion for special events and large groups Olympic Size Swimming Pool and Public 9-Hole Golf Course Silver Saddle Restaurant Clean and Comfortable Rustic-style Lodging It s a destination you don t want to leave off of your bucket list Top Tours 93

30 Wyoming - Snowy Range Battle Hwy. 70 is great Snowy Range sidebar By Dottie Rankin Having just ridden the majestic Snowy Range Scenic Byway, our expectations for Hwy. 70, more commonly known as the Battle Highway, were comparatively low. Well, it compared very favorably! It has a beauty all its own and is stunningly picturesque. Our fuel tanks were complaining but we found a fuel/convenience/general/ feed store and makeshift coffee spot all in tiny Riverside, Wyo., located at the junction of Hwys. 230 and 70. The atmosphere, and the girl behind the counter, were very friendly. She seemed to know everyone. Just down the road from Riverside is Encampment, or Grand Encampment as it used to be known. This town has a long and interesting history but we had tracks to make. We were finding the roadway was not quite as quality as Snowy Range. The Battle Highway had a somewhat rougher surface, quite a few tar snakes and the shoulders were not very wide; however, not in bad condition. There weren t as many turnouts but there was not as much traffic, either. If you are looking for a solitary route you can do at your own pace, yet a ride with plenty of curves, a hairpin or two and loads of fun to navigate, look no further. We were 15 or so miles west of Encampment when we started seeing signs warning us of road damage. I 94 Top Tours was thinking slight surface breakage or rough spots. I didn t anticipate the road was gone! We were detoured around or right beside yards of asphalt and roadbed which had apparently detached and slid down the mountain in not one but two places. I was hoping the detour didn t end up sliding down the mountain with me on it! We trust it has been repaired for the 2013 season. Aspen Alley As much fun as we were having riding the gently curving and twisting road, we were anxious to find a local segue known as Aspen Alley. We had heard how beautiful it was, but we didn t know where it was nor how well it was marked. As we were riding west from Encampment we saw the first groves of aspen just about five miles west of town. The further west we progressed the more aspen trees we saw intermingled with ponderosa pine and spruce. Quite a view! The Battle Highway has variety and some well radiused and tight turns. When I saw the lead rider s tail light illuminate and stay lit, I knew we had struck aspen gold. We were approximately 23 miles west of Encampment and I gave a silent high-five when I saw Forest Service Road 801 on a big sign. The road is also known as Deep Creek Road. It was very well marked and there was no doubt we had found the right route. Deep Creek Road/Forest Aspen Alley forms a tunnel of vegetation. Service Road 801 runs north from Hwy. 70 through the national forest. After about a mile we reached what is known as Aspen Alley, and oh what a mile it is. It was gravel and usually packed gravel poses little problem, but this area was being logged and the road surface was covered with loose material, big chunks of wood with a ridge in the middle. The sides of the road were strewn with all kinds of logging debris. Slow and steady was the pace and we made it unscathed. I was surprised by the aspens here. Aspens usually appear ghostly with white bark and black knots, often stubby with twisted branches and trunks. Here they stand proud and tall, often over 50 feet! It was an awe inspiring sight to see the sunlight sparkling through the treetops that formed a canopy of sorts over the road. Aspen Alley was a highlight of our Battle Highway explorations and is a must-see. I would do it again in a heartbeat. On an otherwise hot summer day, there is nothing like cool alpine air, majestic scenery and great roads.

31 Wyoming - Snowy Range Little Snake River Valley After we returned to Hwy. 70, we started descending the mountain into the pretty Little Snake River Valley through the towns of Savery, Dixon and our destination, Baggs. We even dipped briefly into Colorado but didn t know it until we saw the sign saying Welcome to Wyoming. As we continued the descent the road Earl Rankin taking a break at Mirror Lake. flattened and mostly straightened out. We had an uneventful but blisteringly hot ride into Baggs, which was the end of the line for us. We stopped at a little Mexican restaurant called El Rio for some lunch (it was delicious) and a cold soda and found a friendly, family atmosphere that was most welcoming in the heat of the day. I am always on the lookout for the historical significance of the places we visit. Butch Cassidy, the Sundance Kid and their Wild Bunch supposedly made Baggs their home. The Gaddis/Mathews cabin on Hwy. 789 in Baggs was reportedly the outlaws Colorado hideout. This day included everything from glorious scenic displays of very different natures, treacherous parking lots, disappearing roads and a lot of history. It included some fantastic motorcycle riding, some great roads, good food and beautiful weather. It was a day with diverse Campground & RV Park Riverside, WY Leroy and Lee Ann Stephenson, Owners website: lazyacreswyo.com and distinct pleasures. It was a complete, joyful and rewarding success. Without a doubt the scenery between Riverside and Baggs along Hwy. 70 in southeast Wyoming is one of Mother Nature s most impressive displays. I just added it to my list of favorite roads. Motorcycle Friendly 18 miles south of Saratoga on the Encampment River PO Box 625, Riverside, WY Arrive on Two Wheels $ tax per night per person for camping Top Tours 95

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