ESK VALLEY WALK V A LLEY W ALK. A REGIONAL ROUTE including Ordnance Survey Maps. North York Moors National Park

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1 North York Moors National Park A REGIONAL ROUTE including Ordnance Survey Maps ESK ESK VALLEY WALK V A LLEY W ALK ESK VALLEY WALK More than a stroll but less than a trek, Regional Routes are an easy and enjoyable way to explore the countryside. They are designed for a short walking holiday and are ideal for a long weekend. The Esk Valley Walk follows the River Esk from its source high on the North York Moors to the coast at Whitby. The 35 mile route takes you through a variety of countryside from open moorland to riverside pastures. Ordnance Survey Explorer Maps OL 26 and OL 27 cover the North York Moors National Park. The maps in this guide are reproduced from the Ordnance Survey Explorer Map Series with the permission of the Controller of Her Majesty s Stationery Office. Crown Copyright First published by the North York Moors National Park Authority 1992 Revised 1997 and 2008 North York Moors National Park Authority ISBN

2 ROADS AND PATHS not necessarily rights of way HEIGHTS AND NATURAL FEATURES KEY TO THE MAP Danby The Moors Centre, Danby Whitby Abbey A171 Ruswarp Whitby Esk Valley Walk River Esk RAILWAYS VEGETATION Bell Heather Castleton River Esk GLAISDALE MOOR Lealholm Glaisdale Egton Bridge Grosmont Sleights A169 A171 Railway A Road PUBLIC RIGHTS OF WAY OTHER PUBLIC ACCESS ACCESS LAND Scrub Access land boundary and tint Access land in wooded area Access information point Feet 1200 Castleton WESTERDALE MOOR DANBY HIGH MOOR High Blakely Salmon Esklets EGTON HIGH MOOR Dibble Bridge Danby The North Yorkshire Moors Railway Danby Beacon Lealholm Arncliffe Woods FYLINGDALES MOOR Egton Bridge YOUR ROUTE Grosmont Farm Sleights Whitby Metres 366 GENERAL FEATURES TOURIST AND LEISURE INFORMATION Portrayal of access land on this map is intended as a guide to land which is normally available for access on foot, for example access land created under the Countryside and Rights of Way Act 2000, and land managed by the National Trust, Forestry Commission and Woodland Trust. Access for other activities may also exist. Some restrictions will apply; some land will be excluded from open access rights. The depiction of rights of access does not imply or express any warranty as to its accuracy or completeness. Observe local signs and follow the Countryside Code. BOUNDARIES National Park miles 10 miles 15 miles 20 miles 25 miles 30 miles 35 miles 0 National Park Information Point

3 INTRODUCTION The River Esk starts high up on the Moors at the head of Westerdale. Its source is not a clear bubbling spring but a series of trickling becks, Esklets, which meet as they flow down to the valley. The river then wends its way east for 25 miles to join the sea at Whitby. For walkers, the Esk Valley offers an attractive variety of scenery and landscape. In some parts the valley is wide and open with the Moors rising clearly on either side, in others it narrows into a steep wooded gorge. On the walk you can enjoy woods, farmland and riverside pastures. The name, Esk, stems from a Celtic word Isca meaning water or stream and the valley is rich in historical remains from prehistoric earthworks to medieval packhorse bridges. Yorkshire s only salmon river, the Esk has been a popular fisherman s haunt for centuries. Fishing near Lealholm Look carefully and you may see trout and grayling as well as salmon. If you are tempted to fish, however, remember that you need a permit and a licence - these are usually available locally or you can contact a local angling club or the Environment Agency. ABOUT THE WALK The whole route is about 35 miles long, starting at Castleton and ending in Whitby. For details of the distances and heights see the inside cover. From Castleton you walk on to the Moors and to the source of the River Esk at Esklets. You then follow the river on its journey to Whitby where it flows into the North Sea. The route is marked by a special waymark with a leaping salmon; yellow arrows mean a footpath and blue denote a bridleway. GETTING TO THE START The walk starts at Castleton which can be reached by train on the Esk Valley Line which runs between Middlesbrough and Whitby. As the train stops at eight villages along the Esk Valley Walk, it may also be a welcome relief if you change your plans or overstretch yourself. A service bus and Moorsbus, the National Park s own bus network, also run through Castleton and timetables are available. WHAT YOU NEED Wear strong shoes or boots as some of the paths may be muddy. Take an extra layer and a waterproof - however sunny it is when you start out, the weather changes quickly and on the Moors it is often cooler. FURTHER INFORMATION The Moors National Park Centre Tel: It is important to be dressed for all weathers

4 KEY TO MAPS ON INSIDE BACK COVER CASTLETON From the station turn right along the road. Cross the Esk and turn right. After the right-hand bend turn left up the footpath at the corner of the drystone wall. At the top of the hill turn right up the road. Turn left before the junction at the first footpath sign (the entrance to Didderhowe). Walk straight down the track to the farm. At the farmhouse carry on down left of the house and go through the gate. Walk straight across the field to the gate opposite. Carry straight on down by the hedge for two fields. Go through the gate by the beck and bear right parallel to the beck. Follow the waymarked route through a series of fields and gates eventually to arrive at the road. Go through the gate and straight on along the road leading to West Green Farm and Plum Tree Farm. Sheep farming is the main type of farming in the National Park

5 DANBY DALE Honey Bee Nest Farm is part of Botton Village, a special community for adults with special needs. Run according to the principles of the Camphill Movement, the community is largely selfsufficient and products ranging from wholemeal bread to toys are sold in Botton and nearby villages. Danby Dale At Plum Tree Farm carry straight on passing West Cliff Farm and Blackmires along the public footpath. At the road go straight on through the farmyard of Stormy Hall. Pass through a series of gates then around the field-edge and over the wall-stile. Go through the next series of fields towards Nook House Farm. Just before the farmhouse the path leaves the fields to join a road. Walk along the road in front of the farmhouse and through the gate. Follow it to the next farm (Honey Bee Nest Farm). Go through the farmyard and turn right through the gate. Head straight up the daleside. At the top of the field turn left to join the path across the moorland. Follow it to the road and turn left. Take the first left following the public bridleway.

6 ROSEDALE HEAD The North York Moors have a remarkable number of moorland crosses and standing stones. Most date from the Middle Ages when they marked boundaries or routes across the Moors. Over 30 are named and at the road you pass White Cross, also known as Fat Betty. Last century Rosedale had a flourishing ironstone industry. White Cross Over to the left the line on the hillside marks the route of the railway which was built in 1861 to transport the iron ore from Rosedale to Durham. It was dismantled in Further along the daleside is a row of arched kilns where the ironstone was roasted to remove impurities and make it lighter for transportation. Looking at this peaceful valley today it is hard to imagine that it was such a hive of industry and had a population of nearly 3,000 people. Standing Stone above Rosedale Follow the bridleway across the moorland. At White Cross go straight over the road and stay on the bridleway. It bears right to join the Castleton to Hutton-le-Hole road. Turn left at the road and walk past the Lion Inn to the turning for Farndale. Rosedale Kilns Chris Ceaser

7 BLAKEY RIDGE Farndale from High Blakey With high moorland on all sides you experience the open space and remoteness typical of the Moors on this stretch. These Moors are part of the largest expanse of continuous heather moorland in England - the very reason this area became a National Park. Heather moorland is home to a variety of wildlife. Ling is the most common heather but you will also see bell heather and cross-leaved heath. Up until the 1930s ling was used for thatching. It is still used now for making besoms or brooms in some places. Today the Moors generate a different source of income - grouse shooting. The season begins on the glorious 12th of August and continues until December. The heather is burned regularly to encourage new growth as the young shoots are essential food for young grouse. Other moorland birds to look out for are golden plover, curlew, merlin and meadow pipit. Turn right down the road to Farndale. Turn right along the wide track signposted bridleway. This is the track bed of the old Rosedale railway. Red Grouse

8 ESKLETS The sound of trickling water accompanies you for the next few miles. Several small becks flow down from the Moors here becoming the River Esk at Westerdale. The path passes through the remains of Esklets. In the 12th century it was a monastic grange (or sheep farm) owned by the monks at Rievaulx Abbey near Meadow Pipit Helmsley. Although the buildings were used until the mid 1940s they were finally abandoned because of their isolated position. On the hillside to the left are the waste tips from the jet mines which were worked until the end of the 19th century. Westerdale Moor Chris Ceaser Esklets is the most remote part of the walk Where the track is crossed by a path turn right following the Esk Valley Walk signpost. Walk down to the beck. Cross the fields and go through the gate. Bear right down towards the beck. Cross the footbridge and continue along the hillside. The beck is now on your left. Cross the ford and turn right along the path with the beck on the right. Cross the footbridge and carry straight on to the stone stile. Walk behind the farm buildings on the right to the gate. Go through it and left across the fields.

9 WESTERDALE Westerdale Chris Ceaser Carry on across the fields with the beck on the right. One field after the footbridge the track forks. Bear left and go through the gate in the drystone wall. Turn right along the track. At the right-hand turn keep straight, on the path beside the wall. Before the farm bear left up the track and go through the gate. Cross the field to Hawthorn Farm. Go straight on keeping the farm on the right. After the stream the path forks. Keep left and walk up to the metal gate. Go through it and carry on to the junction. Turn right up Drystone walls are built using local stone without cement and mortar the road. Bear left at the first public footpath sign to cross the moorland. Keep the grouse butts on your left and Westerdale village in view on your right. The path through the heather is not always visible, eventually running close to a drystone wall. As the wall bends away to the right take the waymarked path on the left across the heather. Where the path meets a drystone wall, continue beside the wall with the wall on your right. Continue down the valley side to the River Esk. Cross the bridge and go up the slope. At the corner of the field bear left - not by the fence but across the rough ground. Continue beside the river. At the road turn right.

10 ESK DALE Commondale Beck joins the River Esk here adding to its size and strength. The first of several mills along the river is on the left as you head down the road. Now extensively converted, Esk Mill was used for spinning and weaving flax in the late 18th century. It was later adapted for grinding corn and continued to operate until the 1930s. Danby Park is the remnant of a medieval deer park. In the Middle Ages, deer hunting was an exclusively royal pastime anyone else who wanted to hunt had to apply to the king for permission. To get around this, landowners enclosed their own deer parks for private hunting. Green Woodpecker This deer park belonged to the de Brus family who lived in the Norman Castle in Castleton before it was dismantled in the 13th Century. Walk up the hill and turn left at the cross roads following the sign to the station. Go left over the bridge. Go under the railway bridge past the station and up the hill. Turn right off the road following the bridleway signposted Danby. Walk past the houses beside the stone wall and the fence. Carry on straight through the wood and along the track until the bridleway meets the road. Looking south from Danby Park

11 DANBY Danby Lodge now The Moors National Park Centre, is an old hunting lodge but since 1976 it has been a National Park Visitor Centre, it has a tea room, a shop, attractive grounds, exhibitions and the Inspired by. gallery showing local art and crafts. Danby Dale and Little Fryup Dale Gillian kent Go left along the road. Go over the wall-stile on your right and through the gate on your left. Follow the path and cross the wall-stile near the houses and turn right down the road. Bear left over the beck and immediately right. Turn right at the road. After two bridges, turn left up the bridle path by the converted chapel. At the top turn left, following the road. Turn left through the wooden gate signposted Danby. Cross the railway carefully. Keeping the hedge on your left, cross the Esk and continue to the road. Turn right. Take the footpath on the left. Cross the field following the direction of the signpost to the far side. At the far side turn right and go straight on parallel to the wall. Cross the stile keeping the farm on your right and carry on straight up the track to the next farm. Walk through the farmyard past the house and continue straight along the road. Turn first left up the track. At the road go straight ahead and then right to Danby Beacon, the highest point in the area. A pause to explore The Moors National Park Centre is well worth while Mike Kipling

12 Mist in the valley: looking south from Oakley Walls OAKLEY WALLS The remoteness of the Moors has meant that evidence of early man can still be found in many places. Burial mounds, known locally as howes, boundary dykes and the remains of ancient fields are typical of the archaeological landscapes in the National Park. Many of these features are over 3,000 years old. On the open moorland they often stand out as the only visible landscape features although in some cases they are so camouflaged by vegetation that it takes an expert to spot them. The Moors around Danby were surveyed in 1988 and over 400 sites of archaeological interest were found. They range from early prehistoric tool production sites which may be over 6,000 years old to 19th century boundary stones. Along Oakley Walls two prehistoric cist burials were discovered by the farmer in These consisted of crudely constructed stone chambers which contained cremated bones and may be 3,500 years old. At Danby Beacon, bear right along the unmade road towards Lealholm. At the junction turn right and continue to the road. Follow the road ahead to the next junction. Lapwing

13 LEALHOLM Sandstone is a popular building stone locally. Underpark Farm is built of sandstone which has been dressed or decorated. Mill Wood has a variety of traditional native woodland trees including alder, downy birch, hazel, oak and holly. This together with the range of plants, (wood sorrel, bluebell, broad buckler fern, greater woodrush among others) suggests it is an ancient woodland i.e. it has been tree-covered for over 400 years. Stepping stones Chris Ceaser Turn right at the road and head down to the village. After the car park go left along the bridleway. Follow the track to Underpark Farm. Go right, keeping the buildings on your left, through the farmyard. Go through the gate into the field. Carry on beside the River Esk. Climb up to the handgate and cross the wooden bridge next to the railway. At the end of the path turn right down the track. Cross the river and follow the track up the slope. At the road go straight on. Take the footpath on the left between the houses. Walk over the lawn to the field gate. Carry on down to the stile and the gate. Follow the path round the hill to the next stile. Carry on into the woods. River Esk at Lealholm Chris Ceaser

14 Beggar s Bridge Chris Ceaser GLAISDALE Terraces of slate-roofed cottages are the first sign that you are coming to a mining area. Both Glaisdale and Grosmont were ironstone mining villages last century. Beggar s Bridge was built in 1619 by Thomas Ferries, the son of a moorland farmer. When he was courting he had to swim across the Esk to meet his sweetheart, Agnes. Her father, a wealthy landowner, thought that Thomas was far too poor for Agnes so Thomas decided to go to sea to seek his fortune. The night before he was due to leave he couldn t get across the river to say goodbye to Agnes and swore that one day he would build a bridge at the spot. He returned from the sea a rich man, married Agnes and built Beggar s Bridge! The stone trods through Arncliffe Woods are part of an ancient pannierway, used in the past by monks, packhorses and travellers. As this oak woodland is fed by several springs, moisture loving plants such as large bittercress and soft rush can be seen as well as greater stitchwort and wild strawberry. The ancient pannierway through Arncliffe Woods Cross the stile in the wall. Go down past Mill Wood Cottage and up the drive to the road. Turn left. Follow the road to the junction at the Arncliffe Arms. Turn left. The route goes right at the signpost before the railway bridge but it is worth carrying on under the railway bridge to see Beggar s Bridge first. Back on the route climb up the step and follow the path left through the wood and carry on to the road. Turn left down the road to Egton Bridge.

15 EGTON BRIDGE Until the 1940s anyone using the Egton Estate toll road had to pay a charge look out for the noticeboard on the toll house towards the end of the road. Today it is used by permission of the landowner. The church on the left after the toll road turn-off is St. Hedda s, a Roman Catholic Church. Egton Bridge was the home of the martyr Father Nicholas Postgate who was executed in 1679 because he refused to conform to the established religion. River Esk Chris Ceaser Go past the Horseshoe Hotel. Immediately before the junction go left down the steps. Walk along the path to the stepping stones across the River Esk*. Cross the river and follow the path behind the gardens to the road. Turn right, continue to the junction and turn left. Join the private toll road on your right opposite St. Hedda s Church. *If the Esk is in full spate go straight on at the junction to the road bridge. Follow the road up towards the church. The toll road is on the right. Wellingtonia tree

16 GROSMONT Listen out for the puffing steam train of the North Yorkshire Moors Railway here in the summer. Engineered by George Stephenson in the 1830s, the line used to link Whitby to Pickering. Today only the Grosmont to Pickering section is open, passing through the stunning and dramatic Newtondale Gorge. At the end of the toll road turn left and first right. Continue round behind the houses. Carry straight along the bridleway to Grosmont Farm. Go through the farmyard and follow the bridleway up North Yorkshire Moors steam train towards Fotherley s Farm. Go through the bridlegate left of Fotherley s Farm. Follow the stone trod up through the woods, turning right at the signpost. Go through the gate at the top. Go straight ahead following the edge of the field to the next gate on the right. Keep straight along the track past Newbiggin Hall and go through the farm gates into the field. Carry straight on and go through the gate into the wood. Follow the path through and out of the wood. Continue along the path and bear left along the field edge to the gate. Pass through the gate and follow the trod with the hedge on your left. Ramsons Chris Ceaser

17 RUSWARP Boating at Ruswarp Mike Kipling Kingfisher The land bordering the river is known as the Carrs which means flat wet land likely to flood. One of the first stone bridges over the Esk was built here in Since then several bridges have been washed away in high floods - the last time one was destroyed was in 1930 when some areas were under 8ft (2.5m) of water and villages upstream as far as Castleton were cut off by the floods. Go through the gate and continue straight on and down through the scrubland. Turn right at the road, then left on the bridleway, down to the stream. Cross the bridge and go through the gate. Walk across the middle of the field. Go through the gate and straight on. At the road turn right. At the farm turn right over the stile. Follow the path along the edge of the field and up the hill. At the road turn right. Walk down past The Woodlands. Cross the main road and take the road to Ruswarp. After 150m turn right onto the bridge over the river. Cross the railway and bear left up Lowdale Lane and continue past the houses and turn left over the bridge into the cricket field. Pass the pavilion, go through the gate on the right, turn left following the track ahead which turns right past the houses into Echo Hill. Go through the gate and up the hill. Pass through the next gate and along the field edge to the signpost. Turn left and follow the waymoors.

18 RUSWARP - WHITBY The final stretch of the walk brings you to the ancient port of Whitby. Fishing and shipbuilding have played an important part in Whitby s development and in the 18th century two of Captain Cook s ships, the Endeavour and the Resolution were built here. Turn left just before the farm buildings at Hagg House. Go past the cowshed and down the slope into the field. Walk down the field to the railway. Cross the railway and turn right. Cross back again at the next level crossing and follow the lane to the road. Turn left. Cross the river and railway into Ruswarp. Walk up the main street and on the right hand side before the hill, turn right along the footpath signposted to Whitby. Follow the stone trods and go up the steps. Rejoin the trods and at the fork bear right. Go up the steps and along the path. Cross the old railway cutting. Follow the path over the school playing fields. Walk past the school entrance. Before the main road take the path by the fence on the right. Follow it parallel to the road. Go under the road via the underpass and turn right down the tarmac path to the road. Turn right at the road, then bear right onto the unmade track. Go through the white gate and cross the railway with care. Pass through the car park (with care) and into Whitby. To see the River Esk complete its journey from moors to sea, carry on into Whitby and make your way to the pier where the walk ends. Whitby Harbour