To the President and Directors of the Overland Mail Company:

Transcription

1 To the President and Directors of the Overland Mail Company: Gentlemen: In obedience to the instructions of John Butterfield Esqr. I herewith transmit to you a report of the information obtained by the Exploring Party sent out under your auspices to examine the route for the carriage of the mail from the valley of the Mississippi to El Paso on the Rio Grande del Norte. I have deemed it more advisable to make this Report in a series of general remarks arranged under appropriate head rather than to furnish a transcribe of my journal from day to day believing that by so doing it would be far more intelligible to you. Topography of the Country The remarks which I shall make relative to the topographical appearance of the country will be brief and necessarily imperfect from the fact that my scientific knowledge will not enable me to go into any details upon that subject. The country lying between the valley of the Rio Grande and Rio Pecos a distance of one hundred and eight-five miles is comprised principally of elevated table lands being destitute of wood and water except at particular points. This region is intersected by ranges of mountains which are nearly parallel to each other with a general direction north and south. The route through these mountains is very rough in some places for the want of work although they possess every facility requisite to make them easy of passage. The valley of the Rio Pecos along the route which we traveled is a level plain of about two miles in width bordered on each side by table lands about fifty feet high descending into it by very gentle inclinations. After crossing the Rio Pecos a few miles below the mouth of Delaware Creek we found ourselves upon the Llano Estacado or Staked Plain which consists of elevated table lands entirely destitute of wood and water and extends from the 30 th to the 35 th parallel of latitude, is about one hundred and seventy-five miles across at its points of greatest width and divides the Rio Grande and its tributaries... To the north its eastern side is faced by an abrupt precipice and on the south it is intersected by a range of hills of white drift-sand which are known as the Sand Hills. From the Sand Hills across the Staked Plain to the Mustangs Springs is a distance of sixty seven miles entirely destitute of both wood and water so far as our discoveries went. The entire distance from the crossing of the Rio Pecos to the Mustang Springs is one hundred and seventy miles sixty seven of which is without water. After leaving the Llano Estacado we come to that section of the country in northern Texas which is drained by the tributaries of the Colorado the Brazos, the Trinity and the Red Rivers. The country begins here to assume a more rolling appearance, is well-timbered and well-watered, with a soil having every appearance of presenting undercurrents to the agriculturalist of a superior order by far the most beautiful portion of the whole route from the Rio Grande to the western frontier of Arkansas is that situated between the Clear Fork of the Brazos and the Brazos River. It is interspersed with equal quantities of prairie and timber with numerous clear fresh running streams and countless springs presenting the most charming view as of a country in the very highest state of cultivation. The immediate valley of Red River is well supplied with timber and water and is possessed of a soil presenting as high claims for agricultural purposes as any in the Union.

2 From the valley of the Red River to the Arkansas the route runs through the Indian Territory traversing a gently undulating district sustaining a heavy growth of excellent timber occasionally interspersed with prairie lands and... numerous small streams which flow over a highly productive soil capable of sustaining a dense population. Many of the statements which I have made in the foregoing have been derived from conversations had with Capt John Popes, Dr. George G. Shermand, and Lieut Bryon all of whom have traveled over the route. Table of Distances Place to Place From El Paso Waco Tanks 29 9/ /10 Alamos 27 2/ /10 Comuelas Tanks 9 1/ /10 Crow Springs 29 1/ /10 Gaudalope Springs 23 6/ Pinery 4 1/ /10 Independence Springs 6 3/ /10 Head of Delaware Creek 16 9/ /10 Deleware Crossing 22 1/ /10 Pecos River Emigrant Crossing (a) West Sand Hill East Sand Hill 5 3/ /10 Mustang Springs 66 9/ /10 Big Springs of Colorado 24 8/ Camp Cooper (b) Fort Belknap Buchanans (c) Gainesville Preston Boggy Depot Agency Fort Smith (a) the road touches the river at various points from the crossing of the Pecos to the Emigrant Crossing. (b) An abundance of water can be found at convenient distances for stations from the Big Springs to the Colorado to Camp Cooper. (c) There is an abundance of water form Fort Belknap to Buchanans; and also along the whole route from there to Fort Smith... The distances which I have given embrace all that region of country along the route where there is a scarcity of water. Condition of the Roads The subject of the condition of the roads is perhaps of greater importance to the Company now than any other and I will endeavor to be as correct in this particular as possible. The opinions which I shall

3 advance are formed after having heard the opinions of George W. Wood who accompanied the expedition and Lieut Bryan who traveled on portions of the route during the rainy season. From Franklin to the Waco Tanks a distance of twenty nine miles the roads are of very heavy sand rendering it impossible for a team to proceed faster than a walk. From the Waco Tanks there are two roads proceeding west one striking the Rio Grande opposite El Paso in twenty-nine miles and the other at Dona Ana in sixty four miles... I have the opinion of Lieut Bryan that the road to Dona Ana is by far the most practicable. He says that during the rainy season the road along the valley of the Rio Grande is almost impossible frequently being entirely under water. He also says that from the Tanks to Dona Ana there will not be a greater amount of sand to encounter than by way of El Paso. Water can be found on the Dona Ana road at a distance of thirty six miles from the Tanks and also at two other points the precise distance of which I did not learn. From the Waco Tanks the roads runs for about three miles through a deep ravine and is very good; after which has to be encountered a steep rocky hill of some two miles in length. At this point there will have to be some grading done. From the summit of this hill to the Commades Tanks the road runs over a gently undulating prairie with a hard gravelly soil making one of the very best of roads for staging purposes. From the Commades Tanks to the Crow Spring the roads are very similar to those from the Waco to the Comadas. From Cross Spring the roads are good for four miles when the soil abruptly changes to heavy sand making very bad roads for a distance of five miles. After leaving the sand the road extends for a distance of twenty four miles over a very rolling country to the Guadalope Mountains. The passage through the canyon of the Gaudalope (sic) Mountains is along the dry bed of a stream and is very difficult to pass. Considerable work will have to be done to make the road through this canyon a good one. It runs in a very tortuous course for a distance of some eight or ten miles when the actual distance (in a direct line) is not more than four miles. From the Gaudalope Mountains to the Head of Delaware Creek is an excellent road over a rolling country. There are two or three bad hills which will want some work done on them from the Head of Deleware Creek (sic) to the Crossing of the Rio Pecos the road continuous good running along the valley of the creek over a rolling country. The crossing of the Pecos at this point a few miles below the mouth of Deleware Creek is a good ford of about sixty yards in width and some three feet in depth, the bottom rather stony. Capt Pope says these will be no difficulty in crossing at this ford at all seasons of the year. After crossing the Rio Pecos the road continues down the river to the Emigrant Crossing a distance of seventy miles. It is yet in a primitive state having never been traveled only by Capt Pope and his party in their explorations of After being traveled for a short time it will make a most excellent road for staging purposes. This route is different from the one traveled by the party under Dr. Southwick in the trip going out. The route which he passed over on the west side of the river from the Horsehead crossing to the Deleware Creek was a very good road at that time. In conversation with Lieut Bryan at St. Louis a few days since he informed me that where he passed over this same road during the rainy season in 1849 it was almost impassible, so much so that he was compelled to go over with his wagons loaded very light and had to double teams to do that. This is avoided by taking the road on the east side of the river form the new crossing of Capt Pope to the Emigrant Crossing. The only bad part of this road is a stretch of about three miles over a salt lake which will be boggy during the rainy season. At the Emigrant Crossing Capt Popes trail strikes the Old Emigrant Road leading to the Sand Hills. The road is very bad being impossible to get the teams along faster than a walk. In the immediate vicinity of the Sand Hills it is so bad that mules or

4 horses will sink in nearly up to their knees. After leaving the Sand Hills the same heavy sand road has to be encountered for a distance of fifteen miles when the route strikes the elevated plateau of the Llano Estacado. The road thru to the Mustang Springs a distance of fifty miles running over a gentle undulating plain is one of the very best that can be found for staging purposes fully equal to the finest Macadamized roads in the Union. It is the opinion of Lieut Bryan that by crossing the Llano Estacado from the Mustang Springs to the mouth of Deleware Creek further north this kind of road can be had the entire distance, thus avoiding all the sand and at the same time finding a much shorter route. In the event of boring artesian wells or the building of tanks across the Llano Estacado this would undoubtedly be the most practicable route. The present route has been adapted by emigrants in consequence of the country further north being entirely destitute of water. From the Mustang Springs to the Big Springs of the Colorado the roads although yet in a very primitive state are good, running over a gently undulating surface of country. From the Big Springs to the Main or Salt Fork of the Colorado River the roads continue good over a rolling country with the exception of some two or three bad ravines which have to be crossed upon which some work will have to be done. From the Main or South Fork of the Colorado the road for the first three miles is over very heavy sand after which it is good for a distance of some forty miles over a rolling country with a soil about equally mixed with red sand, clay and gravel. These are however some bad places/ravines and gullies which will want grading. After this the road runs over about three miles of heavy sand again and from thence to the Clear Fork of the Brazos the roads are comparatively good with the exception of a few bad hills which are formed a few miles west of the clear Fork. The worst impediment to the road over these hills will be the stones but they are easily removed and it will not require a great amount of labor to put the roads in excellent condition. There is very material at hand requisite for making repairs. From the Clear Fork of the Brazos to Fort Belknap the roads are good over a rolling country seven miles before reaching Fort Belknap. The route leaves Capt Marcy s trail and takes the road leading from Fort Belknap to Fort Chadbourne. About one mile before reaching Fort Belknap the road crosses the Brazos River by ford. My impressions are that during the rainy season a ferry will be required to cross the stream although the settlers around the Fort say that there is no difficulty whatever in fording the river at all seasons. From Fort Belknap to the upper Cross Timbers a distance of about eighty miles the roads will be bead during the rainy season. The soil alternates every few miles between what is called the mulatto soil )(a mixture of sand and loam) and black loan which when saturated with rain water becomes very boggy. The roads were much more difficult to travel on our return than when we went over them in February. There can be little doubt however but that when the roads become packed by constant travel with a drain upon each side to carry off the water they will be practicable for staging purposes. Just before getting to the upper Cross Timbers we took a new road leading through there to Buchanans. We were told that it was a much better road and several miles nearer. The road will make a much better one than the old military road through the Cross Timbers (the one traveled by Dr. Southwick s party) but do not think it any nearer. There are three or four ravines and streams through the Cross Timbers that will require bridging. The settlers in the vicinity say that they will put the road in good condition providing the route runs that way. The road through the Upper Cross timbers is fifteen miles.

5 From Buchanans to Gainesville a distance of twenty five miles the road runs over an undulating prairie with a black loam soil. There are several places along the route that will become boggy after a heavy rain unless drains are dug to carry the water off. The roads will be excellent in dry weather. From Gainesville to Preston on the Red River the roads are equal to any we have seen on the route with the exception of one bad place the crossing of Big Mineral Creek fourteen miles from Preston. The banks of this stream are steep and miry and immediately after a heavy rain must be utterly impassable. This stream can be easily bridged however as there is an abundance of timber of the largest size in the immediate vicinity. The bottom of this stream for a distance of about a quarter of a mile will also be bad after a heavy rain. The Red River at the point where the line crosses it at Preston is about half a mile in width the banks very steep and difficult to get up and down. From the Red River the road runs for a distance of five miles through very heavy sand and from there to near Boggy Depot the roads are comparatively good with occasionally small strips of sand. About twenty-five miles from the Red River is a large stream the Big Blue with a toll bridge across it. There are three or four small ravines which will require bridging or grading down. About four miles before reaching Boggy Depot the roads are rough. There are several streams after leaving Boggy Depot. One of them called the Big Sandy which is impassible after the rainy season. The Big Bobby is the most difficult of any of the streams to ford. There were men engaged in building a bridge across this stream. One of the Boggy streams already has a toll bridge across it. There is a strip of the road for some five miles both east and west of Boggy Depot that will require considerable work to be done. Some of the inhabitants think that a new road can be opened which will be much shorter and a much better road. Sixty miles from the Red River and fifteen miles from Boggy Depot the road forks one going to Fort Smith and the other to Fort Gibson. From this point to Sculleyville, the agency of the Choctaw nation) the roads are rough. The country is very rolling with some bad hills and stony. There is however an abundance of all kinds of material necessary for repairing the road. But it is now just as nature and accident has made it. The natives along the route gave assurances that they would fix the roads, as also did Governor Walker, but whether they will or not remains to be seen. If they do it will have to be done before the route is established or not at all. From Sculleyville to Fort Smith the road runs through bottom lands the greater portion of the way which cannot be made good except in very dry season. Eight miles from Sculleyville and nine miles from Fort Smith the road crosses the...river by ferry. There is an abundance of timber and other materials along the route which are necessary to repair the road. Facilities for water and Places for Stations Perhaps the next subject of importance is that of the facilities for getting water and the most desireable places for stations. The first water after leaving El Paso is found at the Waco Mountains a distance of twenty nine miles. The water is contained in natural tanks. They are not large enough to furnish water constantly for a station and will have to be enlarged to make them suitable for that purpose. Twenty-seven miles from the Waco Tanks are... wells. These wells are situated about half a mile off from the road on the north face of the mountain and very difficult to reach. An abundant supply of water can be had the year round. Nine miles from the Alamos are the Conmudas(?) tanks which are similar to those at the Waco Mountains. These will have to be enlarged in order to supply a station.

6 Twenty nine miles from the Conmudas is... Crow Spring consisting of small ponds or lakes the water of which is very sulpherous. By digging a well two or three feet deep near these ponds much better water is obtained than that contained in the tanks. Twenty three miles is the Gandolope (sic) Spring situated near the center of the canon of the Gandoloupe Mountains the water is nearly half a mile from the road at the head of a ravine and directly under the high peak. Four and a half miles is the Pinery (?) at the east base of the high peak. The water is situated about five hundred yards from the road up a rocky ravine. We were unable to find the water but all the authorities speak of it as being a fine spring of durable water. There is a large quantity of pine timber here which is the only timber between the Rio Grande and the Big Springs of the Colorado. Six miles further is the Independence Spring a fine spring of pure water. Seventeen miles further is the Head of Deleware Creek which consists of eight springs in a space of about three hundred yards. One of them is a large bold stream of pure water. The remainder are strongly impregnated with sulphur. These streams form the Deleware Creek. Twenty three miles farther is the crossing of the Deleware Creek where the water is a very little brackish. Water can be had at several points along the Deleware Creek by going a short distance from the road. Twelve miles further is the crossing of the Rio Pecos. Seventy miles further is the Emigrant Crossing of the Pecos where the road strikes out from the river and water can be obtained along the river at several convenient points where it makes its elbows. The water of the Pecos is brackish and very muddy. By taking the leaves of the cactus which is found in great abundance in this region and after roasting them put them into the water they will settle it in a very short time. Twenty nine miles further on the route is water in the west Sand Hills which is situated about half a mile from the road among the hills. The water is found in ponds and is the rain water which is washed from the hills. There is said to be an abundance of water here the year round. Five miles further is the water in the East Sand Hills situated similar to that in the west Sand Hills. Sixty seven miles farther we found the Mustang Springs. Capt Marcy says (in his report) that water can be found about midway between the Sand Hills and the Mustang Springs in a laguna situated some half a mile from this trail. In this long stretch the company will have to construct a series of artificial water tanks. And here I will again refer to the route crossing the Llano Estacado at a point further north. Should this be done the water will have to be furnished by means of artesian wells or artificial tanks the whole distance form the crossing of Pecos to the Mustang Springs. The Mustang Springs consist of a series of sulphurous lakes or ponds. By digging wells near these ponds much better water can be obtained than is found in the bottoms. The springs are said by some to be usable while others contend that they go dry in extreme dry seasons. Thirteen miles further is a fine spring of water in a ravine about a quarter of a mile from the road which is laid down by Capt Marcy as a tributary of Concho and as bring durable water. *(pasted in order of this and the previous paragraph unclear ) *Twenty four miles further is the Big Springs of the Colorado. They are situated in a ravine some quarter of a mile from the road. They furnish an abundant supply of water the year round. Twenty eight miles is the main or south fork of the Colorado. The water is very brackish and unpalatable... From the main or salt fork of the Colorado water is found at the following distances; six (6) miles; two and a half (2 ½) miles; two and a half (2 ½); seventeen and a half (17 ½) seven (7) miles;

7 nine (9) miles; twenty one (21) miles; eight and a half (8 ½) mile; nine and a half (9 ½) miles; three (3) miles; eight (8) miles; three (3) miles; and from thence water can be found at distances of form one half to a mile and a half until you reach the clear fork of the Brazos. These streams are tributaries of the Colorado and Brazos. From the clear fork of the Brazos the Fort Belknap water can be found at distances from one to three miles with every other facility necessary to establish stations. Twelve miles from Fort Belknap is the cottonwood springs. Twelve miles further is a fine stream of water known as the south fork of the Trinity. Eight miles further is Rock Spring. Twenty nine miles further is Buffalo Springs. From Buffalo Springs to Buchanans water can be found at almost any distance where the company may fell disposed to locate a station. From Buchanans to the Red River the same remarks may apply; as also from the Red River to Fort Smith. Materials for Building From the Rio Grande until near the clear fork of the Brazos a distance of five hundred and forty miles with the exception of a small amount of pine at Guadaloupe Mountains there is no timber suitable for building. The station houses through this region will have to be adobe work. But for present necessities the company may use tents made from heavy duck canvas. In this there will be no loss as the tents will serve as roofing for the adobe houses when constructed. From the clear fork of the Brazos the whole distance to Fort Smith there is an abundance of fine timber suitable for building and other purposes. An abundance of stone can be obtained at almost any point on the whole route. Special Advantages of the Route After leaving the valley of the Rio Grande the country for a distance of one hundred and forty miles to the head of Deleware Creek presents no inducements whatever to the agriculturalist. This arises from the absence of rain at the proper season of the year and at convenient interludes and from the fact that there is no means of irrigating the soil. On reaching the head of Deleware Creek we find several hundred acres of land which has every appearance of being good for agricultural purposes. The opinions of Capt Pope and Lieut Byran are that there is some three hundred acres of land at this point which can be cultivated without artificial irrigation. The soil along the valley of the Deleware Creek and the valley of the Rio Pecos which is about two miles in width is said to be of great fertility while the peculiar character of the stream and the great inclinations of its bed afford ample facilities for artificial irrigation. From the valley of the Rio Pecos across the Llano Estacado and until you reach the head waters of the Colorado, a distance of one hundred and twenty fives miles the country cannot be made available for agricultural purposes. From the head waters of the Colorado to the clear fork of the Brazos is a fine agricultural country for the smaller grains such as wheat, rye, oats, barley & e(tc). The soil is not calculated for the raising of corn, while the almost entire absence of rain during the summer months render it impracticable... The country lying between the clear fork of the Brazos and Fort Belknap has the appearance of being the finest both in point of beauty and agricultural advantages of any over the whole route. It is composed of about equal quantities of prairie and timber and well watered presenting the most charming views as of a country in the highest state of cultivation and they eye in same wonders over the far stretching prairie in reach of the smiling farm and the next cottage to complete the picture. This region is well adapted to the raising of all the cereal grains.

8 From Fort Belknap to the Red River the country possesses all the agricultural advantages that can be found anywhere in the Union. As I have before remarked the bottom lands of the Red River possess great agricultural wealth and are susceptible of being cultivated with great profit. The same remarks may apply to the country from the Red River to Fort Smith through the Indian Territory. The Subject of Fuel Although the country is entirely destitute of all kinds of timber from the Rio Grande to the headwaters of the Colorado yet an abundance of fuel can be obtained. The whole country is covered with the mesquite bush and there is a perfect underground forest of mesquite root found attached to this bush which furnishes the best kind of fuel and can be obtained with little trouble. As on evidence of the extent to which this root grows Capt Pope had dug up over two thousand wagon loads for the purpose of running a steam engine and had not gone over a space of more than half a mile in extent. From the head waters of the Colorado an abundance of fuel can be found the entire distance to Fort Smith. Forage for Animals Although a large portion of the country along the route is unfit for agricultural purposes yet there is an abundance of the most luxuriant and nutritious grass along the entire route with the exception of... the immediate vicinity of the Sand Hills where a stripe of country of some twenty miles in extent is nearly destitute of vegetation....[g]rass abounds in great abundance from the Rio Grande to the head waters of the Colorado. From this point there is excellent mesquite (of several varieties) and prairie grasses and the prices paid for corn & e(tc) through the settlements will be appraised by the reports which will be submitted to you by Messrs Wood and De Ryther. Settlements Along the Route From the Rio Grande to the clear fork of the Brazos a distance of five hunderd and forty miles - there are not permanent settlers along the route. Capt Pope has a temporary military encampment on the Rio Pecos where he is engaged in boring an artesian well. When ever he abandons this camp there are several adobe houses which will be useful to the Company, as also a fine corral for stock. Between the Clear Fork of the Brazos and Fort Belknap there are three or four settlements and several improvements. At Fort Belknap there are several settlements and the town which is the capital of Young Co assumes quite a village like appearance. From Belknap the first settlements are found at a distance of about eighty miles where some three or four families have just settled. There are several other families expected there the present season. Between this point and Buchanans there are two settlements close together in a spur of the Cross Timbers. Between Buchanans and Gainesville there are a number of settlements the farms all under a high state of cultivation. Two families have settled there the present season. From Gainesville to the Red River there are settlements as often as every five miles with five farms. From Red River to Fort Smith through the Indian Territory there are settlements from five to ten miles apart. Many of the farms are in excellent condition and large crops are produced upon them... Military Forts on the Route

9 There are two military forts in the Rio Grande valley Fort Fillmore situated fourteen miles below Dona Ana and Fort Bliss directly opposite El Paso. The next military post is Camp Cooper a distance of five hundred and forty miles from the Rio Grande. This post has formerly been situated on the Clear Fork of the Brazos but on the day we passed near that post it was to be removed to Point Creek immediately on the road (Capt Marcy s Trail) and some four miles from where the road crosses te Clear Fork of the Brazos. The next military post is Fort Belknap on the Brazos river forty miles from Camp Cooper. Conclusion The above I believe embraces all the points of information which I have been able to gather. They have been prepared in great haste and are necessarily imperfect to some extent but I am inclined to believe that they embrace all the information called for by the instructions issued to the party by Mr. Butterfield. I cannot close this hasty report without making my acknowledgements to Messrs George W. Wood and Frank DeRyther the latter of whom cheerfully furnished me all the information in his power during the trip giving the various distances as measured by the odometer and readily answering all questions which could assist me in perfecting my minutes. The former done all in his power to facilitate the expedition and had his counsel prevailed and the same go ahead disposition been evinced in the party going out the company would have been in possession of a report of the route as early as the first of April. All of which is respectively submitted Syracuse May 10, 1858 Chas P. Cole.