Contents. Laos Highlights 5. Destination Laos 11. Getting Started 13. Itineraries 18. History 23. The Culture 43. Food & Drink 61.

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1 Contents O n t h e R o a d 4 Laos Highlights 5 Destination Laos 11 Getting Started Itineraries 18 History 23 The Culture 43 Food & Drink 61 Environent 72 Vientiane & Around 83 VIENTIANE 84 History 84 Orientation 84 Inforation 85 Dangers & Annoyances 89 Sights 89 Activities 97 Monuent to Mekong Cycling Tour 98 Courses 99 Festivals & Events 1 Sleeping 1 Eating 14 Drinking 19 Entertainent 11 Shopping 112 Getting There & Away 1 Getting Around 116 AROUND VIENTIANE 118 Phu Khao Khuay NPA 118 Vientiane to Vang Vieng 12 Land of a Million Elephants 121 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 9 Vang Vieng Vang Vieng Towards Luang Prabang 9 Northern Laos 141 LUANG PRABANG & AROUND 143 Luang Prabang 143 Around Luang Prabang 169 THE MIDDLE MEKONG 171 Huay Xai (Hoksay) 172 Around Huay Xai 177 Beng 179 Tha Suang 181 Hongsa 181 Ngeun 182 Luang Prabang to Sainyabuli 183 Sainyabuli (Xaignabouri) 183 South of Sainyabuli 186 XIENG KHUANG & HUA PHAN PROVINCES 187 Phu Khoun to Phonsavan 189 Phonsavan 189 Around Phonsavan 193 Sa Neua (Xa Neua) 196 Around Sa Neua 199 Sa Neua to Vietna 21 Sa Neua to Nong Khiaw 21 MUANG NGOI DISTRICT 24 Nong Khiaw 24 Ngoi Neua (Ban Ngoi Kao) 27 Around Ngoi 28 NORTHWESTERN LAOS 29 Udoxai (Oudosay, Xai) 29 Around Udoxai 2 Boten 215 Luang tha (tha) 216 Around Luang tha 221 Luang tha to Sing 223 Sing 223 West of Sing 226 PHONGSALI PROVINCE 227 Noi 227 Khua 227 Noi to Phongsali 23 Phongsali 231 Around Phongsali 233 North of Boun Neua 235

2 1 CONTENTS Central Laos 237 BOLIKHAMSAI & KHAMMUAN PROVINCES 239 san 239 san to Lak Sao 24 Lak Sao 243 Tha Khaek 244 Around Tha Khaek 249 SAVANNAKHET PROVINCE 254 Savannakhet 254 Around Savannakhet 259 Dong Phu Vieng NPA 262 Phu Xang Hae NPA 262 Sepon (Xepon) & the Ho Chi Minh Trail 263 Southern Laos 265 CHAMPASAK PROVINCE 267 se 267 Around se 275 Chapasak 276 Wat Phu Chapasak 278 Don Daeng 281 Uo Moung (Too Teple) 282 Kiet Ngong & Ban Phapho 283 Se Pian NPA 285 Si Phan Don (Four Thousand Islands) 285 Bolaven Plateau 298 SALAVAN PROVINCE 31 Tat Lo 31 Salavan 33 Around Salavan 34 SEKONG PROVINCE 34 Sekong ( Laa) 36 Around Sekong 36 ATTAPEU PROVINCE 37 Attapeu (Saakhi Xai) 38 Around Attapeu 31 Dong Aphan NPA 311 Directory 312 Transport 332 Health 345 Language 355 Glossary 362 The Authors 364 Behind the Scenes 366 Index 369 GreenDex 375 Map Legend 376 Regional Map Contents Northern Laos p144 Vientiane & Around p86 Central Laos p238 Southern Laos p266

3 CHINA Ou Tai ( Nyot Ou) Hat Sa Phongsali Boun Neua Mengla MYANMAR (BURMA) 17A 17B g kon Me Vieng Phukha (Vieng Phoukha) BOKEO LUANG NAMTHA (NAMTHA) 3 Na a Th Huay Xai (Hoksay) Pha Udo To Chiang Rai Chiang Tha 2W UDOMXAI (OUDOMXAY) Beng Houn er 2W Beng Udoxai (Oudosay, Xai) ng eko Huay Kon Vieng 6A Xai ng Seua Phou Louey Na Na Meo HUA PHAN 2ºN Sa 6 XIENG KHUANG 7 SAINYABULI (XAIGNABOURI) Nan 1/398 Sainyabuli (Xaignabouri) Kasi Ngu Phu Bia (282) Huay Kha Saisobun 1 BOLIKHAMSAI Bolikha san Beung Kan Kading Mu an Ban Ilai Phu Khao Khuay Sa n a Phon Hong VIENTIANE PREFECTURE PHONSAVAN (p189) Mysterious Plain of Jars and shocking reinders of the Indochina wars Accessible in dry season only 1 Gulf of Tonkin Can N Ang Ngu Khan Khoun (Old Xieng Khuang) Xan Lai 7 Nong Haet PHU KHAO KHUAY NPA (p118) Forested natural reserve with waterfalls, wild elephants and hoestay accoodation Vang Vieng Phoun Kha Phonsavan Phu Khoun VIENTIANE VANG VIENG (p) Travellers' haven with stunning karst scenery and plenty of adventure activities Xieng Ngeun 4 Phiang THAILAND 6 Neun 1 Vieng Thong ( Hia) n Luang Prabang Kha M Sa Neua (Xa Neua) Huauang Na To Nan Ou Haiphong VIENG XAI (p2) Karst cliffs dotted with the caverns that sheltered the Pathet Lao 'governent' during the Second Indochina War Sop Hao Et 1C Xeng 21ºN Hanoi LUANG PRABANG (p143) Unesco-listed forer royal capital packed with dazzling teples and French colonial char Vieng Kha Riv Hongsa Ngeun Son La Sop Hun Tay Trang Sop Hun/Tay Trang Khua LUANG 2E PRABANG Ngoi Neua (Ban Ngoi Kao) Nong Mong Khiaw 1C Na Maw Luang tha Ha (tha) Mo Tonpheung Boten Dien Bien Phu N Ou a Noi 1B (Sin Xai) B Xieng Kok er Riv PHONGSALI Boun Tai Mohan 19ºN Vinh Ny uang Sing CHINA Phu Den Din 1A Cau Treo Kading Phao Ban Phon Kha Ban Tha Nape 8 Vieng Kha Falang Lak Sao (Thang Beng) Ban Khoun Kha (Xao) (Na Hin) 18ºN

4 Utaradit Phitsanulok Gulf of Thailand BANGKOK 11ºE Kaen Thao Sanakhan ELEVATION Chiang Khan Tha Li 1 k 6 iles Nakhon Ratchasia Vientiane Tha Na Leng Nong Khai Udon Thani Khon Kaen VIENTIANE (p84) Sleepy riverside capital with a handful of teples and an arful of good restaurants, cafes and bars THAM KONG LO (p242) Draatic karst scenery surrounding a 7k-long cave Sisophon Mekong THAILAND Tha Kong Lo Nakai- Phu Hin Bun Da Nakai Cha Lo KHAMMUAN 8B Gnoalath Na Phao Hin Tha Falang 12 no Mahaxai Mai Tha Lot Se Nakhon Tha Khaek Bang Fai Phano 23B Bualapha Sai Bua Thong Nong Bok River Mukdahan BOLAVEN PLATEAU (p298) Tribal villages, draatic waterfalls, cool weather and great coffee Hin Bun Saibuli WAT PHU CHAMPASAK (p278) World Heritage listed ancient teple in a peaceful hillside setting Se Bang Fai Seno (Xeno) Savannakhet Ban Lak 35 Chaphone Se Noi Lakhon Pheng Se Bang Sedon Lao Nga Don Dong Hoi Tha Taeng SEKONG S O U T H C H I N A S E A Phu Xang He 23B Sepon Dong Ha Atsaphangthong 23 (Xepon) Ban Dong 9 9 Dansavanh Lao Bao Xonbuli Phin SAVANNAKHET Songkhon 23 Se Ban Nuan Ban Tahoy SALAVAN Tulan Lakhonpeng Salavan Vapi 15 phon Se Ja Phu Xieng Thong Fai Sanasobun Sekong Ban Saphai ( Laa) Vang Tao song Bolaven Ubon se Dong Plateau Ban bong Ratchathani Chong Phonthong Hua Sao Tok Dong Mek CHAMPASAK Katatok Apha Chapasak Pa-a ATTAPEU Wat Phu Chapasak Saisettha Kiet Ngong Sanasay Attapeu 18 (Saakhi Xai) 18B Sukhua Ta Ong Phou Se Pian Keua CAMBODIA SI PHAN DON (p285) Sleepy river archipelago with rare dolphins and ighty Mekong rapids Ban Munla Paok Si Phan Don Se Pon Se Don Nong Khiang Trapaeng Kriel Stung Treng Siepang Se Kong Se Kong Se 17ºN Kaan Bo Y

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MARK ELLIOTT & NICK RAY

Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 4 On the Road AUSTIN BUSH Coordinating Author, MARK ELLIOTT & NICK RAY It s a rare thing indeed when all the authors of a particular Lonely Planet guide are able to meet