Route 12. From Sax to Elda and Petrer. Salt-lands stolen from the sea on the banks of the Vinalopó

Transcription

1 RUTA12_124a131_da OK ingles.qxp:rutas 12/07/10 12:51 Página 124 Salt-lands stolen from the sea on the banks of the Vinalopó Route 12 From Sax to Elda and Petrer Castle: Castillo de Sax Mount: Sierra Cabreras Lagoon: Laguna de Salinas Hermitage: Ermita de San Isidro Mount: Sierra de Salinas Pico la Capilla del Fraile Canyades d en Cirus Cabeçó de la Sal Mount: Serra del Reclot Centre: Aula Naturaleza Monte Coto Encebras Refuge: Tres Fuentes 13 Hamlet: Aldea de Algayat 14 Mount: Sierra de La Horna 15 Settlement: Ruinas íberas del Castillo del Río 16 Castle: Castillo de la Mola 17 Sanctuary: Santuario de Santa María Magdalena 18 Hermitage: Ermita de Santa Bárbara 19 Mount: Sierra del Cid 20 Mount: Maigmó

2 From Sax to a world of salt Sax castle 38º 32' 33'' N 0º 49' 21'' W We start a circular route through one of the least known territories of the Region of Valencia: the regions of L Alt Vinalopó and Vinalopó Mitjà. We will travel through areas marked by the production of salt, lands that were once below the sea, forming part of former lagoons, or where the outcropping of salt deposits formed in extinct seas from over two hundred million years ago. So, we find ourselves in a land with names marked by sal indicating the presence of this white substance so important throughout human history: Sierra de Salinas, Pueblo de Salinas, Laguna de Salinas, Saladares de Villena and the Cabeçó de la Sal de Pinoso. We will journey through these regions that owe their name to the river Vinalopó, where we will find fields of vineyards belonging to a Denominación de Origen [D.O. - denomination of origin, equivalent to the French appellation d origene] and some mountains and isolated sierras that guard, practically in secret, marvellous places and natural treasures unknown for most people. We will discover peaceful, beautiful towns. A land, too, of castles, this having been, throughout history, an area between the borders of the kingdoms of Murcia, Castille, Aragon and Valencia. In addition, we will be discovering a rich architectural heritage in the most populous towns, fruit of the wealth generated by the powerful footwear industry. Our journey will end at the Sierra del Cid, where we will get to know the green lungs of these regions and some marvellous views taking in our entire route. Our route starts at Sax. As we have mentioned, this whole area was, in its day, a territory disputed by the kingdoms of Castille, Aragon and Murcia, so in the different towns we find Christian castles built, in most cases, over remains of Arab fortresses. The case of Sax is a paradigm for, in the profile of the town, the powerful castle presiding over the hill stands out in a singular manner. So we should visit the castle not only for its marvellous defensive architecture, but also to see the panoramic views that open up at our feet. The streets leading up to the castle are of Arab origin and are adapted to the differences of height on the hillside; at its centre we find the San Blas hermitage. It will also be interesting to approach the north side of the crag that sustains Sax castle, where we will find a circular pit with a depth of between 10 to 15 metres deep for storing snow. We now head for Salinas making use of the quiet rural roads parallel to the route taken by the main road CV-830. No sooner have we come out of Sax but we pass some former gypsum kilns which deserve a visit and, next thing, we find ourselves on the Cabreras sierra. The first thing we notice on reaching Salinas is its famous lagoon; the second is the impressive sierra of the same name that closes the way to the west. Until 1950 vast quantities of salt were extracted from the lagoon. From that year it started drying up and was converted into agricultural land, which, along with the overexploitation of the aquifers by drilling in the surroundings, made the levels of underground water go down considerably. This has meant the area covered by the original lagoon is gradually reducing. Nevertheless, in periods of heavy rains, nobody can deny the lagoon reclaiming its space and it giving rise to agreeable aesthetic surprise when the sheet of water returns. The original lagoon had a surface area of 425 hectares, filling the landscape with reed-beds, canes, yellow lily, and esparto or needle grass, along with an abundant

3 Route 12 From Sax to Elda and Petrer Pinoso 38º 24' 27'' N 1º 2' 46'' E presence of migratory birds. The Salinas lagoon is a marvellous lonely wetland open to the traveller who loves secluded spaces. A trip across the lagoon or around its shores is highly gratifying, although the lagoon is not without its dark history. From the end of the 19th century various projects were put forward to dry out the Salina as it was a focal point of infection and aggravated the risk of flooding in the town. In fact, in 1751, the town of Salinas succumbed to a great deluge of water. The technical experts of the day attributed the destruction of the town to insufficient drying up of the lagoon. The town s position was moved to the higher ground where it is found today. Walking through its streets leads us to the baroque style church of San Antonio Abad and the nearby hermitage of San Isidro, already on the slopes of the Salinas sierra. On the outskirts of the town we find the Paraje Casa Calpena, another spot recommended for visiting. Casa Calpena is a former palatial home destroyed during the Spanish Civil War and rebuilt by the local council in In the interior of the house the original construction has been reproduced and there is currently a hostel which has eight rooms sleeping six in each, with bathroom and toilets, meeting room, dining room and kitchen. There is also a recreational area and restaurant. From this point we can undertake an incursion through the Salinas sierra. Its highest standing peak, at 1,237 metres above sea level, is named Capilla del Fraile, although to reach it we have to start our walk from the farm tracks that set out from the south of the sierra. This mountainous formation extends for nearly seven thousand hectares. The presence of abundant mist creates moist microclimates in enclosed gullies with the consequent influence on the vegetation. Regarding wildlife, the presence of rabbits, wild boar, dormice, foxes, badgers are notable, and birds of prey such as the golden eagle and Bonelli s eagle. Being one of the least known mountains of the Region of Valencia, nature remains in a wilderness state to the surprise of visitors. From the sierra, on days with good visibility, one can see as far as the Mediterranean. We continue our route in a southerly direction in search of the town of Pinoso. The way leads us through a mosaic of fields with vineyards, almond and carob trees. We will come across two hamlets, Canyades d en Cirus and Ubeda, models of peaceful secluded spots. In the urban centre of Penoso we should stop at the Clock Tower. Its story goes back to 1887, when the project for its construction began. Its great peculiarity is that it is a hand wound clock. A crank handle is used to raise the weights that hang from two cables, as if it were a cuckoo clock but of extraordinary proportions. This whole area of Pinoso is unknown territory for many Valencians, although much valued by the Europeans who have bought up and rehabilitated rustic properties, abandoned for some decades, within the boundary of this town, seeking the quietness, friendliness and light-qualities of these wineproducing plains. Not far away from the town of Pinoso we find the Cabeçó de la Sal. This is a mountain full of magic and energy which has some 500 million tons of salt reserves. About 200 million years ago (during the Triassic period), all the vineyards of Pinoso were covered by marine coastal lagoons, so the water was salty. It is easy to imagine how the evaporation of these lagoons led to the formation of the salt. The salt was covered by layers of sediment, being left in the part below them all

4 Salinas lagoon 38º 30' 36'' N 0º 52' 98'' W until differing pressures from the earth s crust made it come out due to its greater plasticity, thus creating the salt dome diapir formation which the Cabeçó de la Sal de Pinoso shows today. Here, the salt was exploited in the past by means of underground mining, based on digging out galleries until the rock salt was reached. This conventional mining has nowadays been substituted by the practice of dissolving the salt by means of deep boreholes. This is a method that is used for massive halite (rock salt) deposits. The system is based on forcing the salt to dissolve by the injection of water from the surface through tubing, directly onto the rock salt. The brine (salt water) is sent through a series of pipes to the Torrevieja salting factories where it functions as a big crystallisation pool. The work dates from 1972, motivated by the increased demand for salt from the domestic market. A visit to the Cabeçó de la Sal will enable us to discover the extraction holes, the different streams with high concentrations of salt and the Cueva del Gigante [giant s cave], a mine dug to extract an inaccessible concentration of rock salt. There are also different micro-reserves of flora. And at the summit, the most spectacular spots can be seen, with potholes and dolines resulting from the salt extraction processes. We leave the Cabeçó de la Sal and, but still within the municipal boundary of Pinoso, we visit Monte Coto, on the Reclot sierra, where there is a nature classroom teaching and information centre, from where various different footpaths set out that enable us to get to know these natural spots that have escaped the hand of humans, omnipresent in area. One of these footpaths is known as the Senda dels Gal lers. The route bears the common name in the local dialect for the Valencian oak, a botanical gem that still survives in these Mediterranean woods, as vestiges from the more humid atmospheres of the past. Along the way we can observe various examples of this oak inherited from former climatic conditions. In the vicinity of Monte Coto is the town of Encebras and the municipal refuge of Las Tres Fuentes [three waterspouts], which offers modern facilities for those keen to immerse themselves in nature. From Pinoso to the banks of the Vinalopó Our route continues in the direction of Algueña. Without any doubt what most attracts our attention as we approach this town is the enormous opencast marble quarry on the neighbouring Reclot sierra. It makes a disquieting impression, but at the same time hypnotic, the profile of the Sierra with its straight lines silhouetted on the mountainous horizon. Algueña was part of Pinoso until 1934 when, due to the population numbers in the town, it was granted municipal independence. Within the urban centre we will visit the 19th century parish church of San José, with its twin towers, one housing the bells the other a clock, spotted from practically any point within the municipal boundary. From Algueña we head for La Romana. Along the way, in search of peace and quiet, we can visit the simple and pretty village of Algayat. On the right hand side lies the Algayat sierra, which also deserves a look around to discover the delightful spots of Peña de la Mina, where we will find la Cova Negra [black cove], of large proportions. We arrive at the municipality of La Romana, which was dependent on Novelda until Up until 1930 it was owned by the Marquis of La Romana, who finally sold off the lands to the inhabitants and the tenant farmers who cultivated them. La Romana has an environment characterised by wide streets with gardens and is flanked by two large stands of pine, which contributes to increasing its beauty. It will also be interesting to pass by La Carrasca, a Holm oak of large dimensions situated in a beautiful

5 Route 12 From Sax to Elda and Petrer Santa María Magdalena sancturary. Novelda 38º 24' 41'' N 0º 47' 57'' W natural environment and which is over a thousand years old. We can reach our next destination, Aspe, through relatively unspoilt traditional rural scenery, at the foot of the Horna sierra. As we get closer to this town we see the characteristic vineyards growing uva embolsada [dessert grapes that are prepackaged], which we will also come across in the surrounding towns, a very high quality product and with the Denomination of Origin Uva Embolsada del Vinalopó. Aspe has an interesting artistic-historic heritage reflected in its old quarter, which retains the flavour of its Arab roots. With winding streets that come out onto tiny plazas, Aspe s old quarter can be divided into two parts: the early part, which had to be walled and is centred around the Plaza Mayor, and the expansion, which is found centred around the Plaza de San Juan. Around the Plaza Mayor we can enjoy two great architectural gems: the Town Hall, with a Renaissance style façade, and the baroque style Basilica de Nuestra Señora del Socorro. In the vicinity of Aspe we must visit the Iberian Age ruins of Castillo del Río, incredibly well preserved and in an abandoned rural environment of great beauty. Through the places that inspired Azorín, with liqueurs, footwear and nature parks From Aspe we approach Monforte del Cid along the CV-825, crossing the now exhausted river Vinalopó. We reach this town and allow ourselves to wander round its streets, also with clearly Arabic reminiscences, and narrow streets in the Moorish neighbourhood. We find, build over the remains of an Arab fortress, the church of Nuestra Señora de los Nieves [Our Lady of the Snows], a baroque style church from the 15th to 18th centuries which proudly shows off its thirty-metre-tall bell tower, the former minaret of the mosque. At Monforte del Cid we must try the Anís Paloma [an aniseed liqueur], included in the Specific Denomination of Traditional Spirit Beverages of Allicante, a similar official denomination to that of wine. We leave the town of Monforte del Cid and now head for the neighbouring Novelda. The architecture of Novelda is notable for the modernist buildings. So, we can find three of the best examples of this style in Valencian territory, the Modernist Museum-House, the Gómez-Tortosa Cultural Centre and Mira House. These works were sponsored by the powerful Novelda bourgeoisie of the early 20th century, who had become wealthy from the benefits obtained by the development of agriculture, commerce and financial activities. Now in the direction of Monòver, just three kilometres outside Novelda, a relevant artistic-historic group is located on a slope of La Mola hill. We refer to La Mola castle, declared a Place of Cultural Interest. La Mola castle is of Almohad origin, built in the 12th century over a former Roman fortification and was the the town of Novelda s first building. It is an irregularly shaped site enclosed by thick defensive walls. The most outstanding element of the fortress is its triangular tower, situated at the end of the courtyard and a much later construction than the castle, given that it dates from the 14th century. This tower is one of the first examples of Catalan-style civic-military building in Valencian territory. It is known by the name of the Torre de los Tres Picos [tower of the three peaks] and is the only one of its kind in the whole of Europe. At the

6 foot of the castle is the sanctuary of Santa María Magdalena, with a daring building in the modernist style built in 1918 entirely of marble, with similarities to the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona. Once we have passed La Mola hill, we reach Monòver, the city which saw the birth of the great writer of the so-called 98 generation, José Augusto Trinidad Martínez Ruiz, better known by his nom de plume, Azorín. So, one of the first things we should do on reaching Monòver is visit the Azorín museum-house. It is a characteristic dwelling of the 19th century which recreates the home in which the Alicante prose writer lived. The three-storey building houses an exhibition of objects and belongings of Azorín, as well as the writer s library, made up of a bibliographic collection of 14,000 volumes, some of them from the 16th century, and his correspondence. Two buildings declared Places of Cultural Interest will attract our attention in the environs of the village: the Santa Bárbara hermitage, with a bold Valencian and Italian baroque style, and the ruins of the castle. We leave the beautiful town of Monòver and head for the footwear capital: Elda. So, on arriving at this place, we visit the footwear museum. Officially opened in 1999, the museum has four permanent exhibitions and one travelling. The permanent collections show us items related to the mechanisation of footwear manufacture corresponding to the 19th and 20th centuries, with an interesting collection of sewing machines and window displays. We can also enjoy other collections like one that makes a review of footwear used by humans throughout history, or one showing footwear belonging to the famous in culture, art or sports. There is also a collection of local footwear, another showing the footwear of the great designers or miniatures. Two awards are promoted from the museum, and despite their scant tradition, they have already acquired social relevance: the prize for the Best Shod Woman in Spain and the Luis García Berlanga journalism prize for best article on women s footwear. From Elda to Petrer we hardly have to cross the street, since the great expansion these two towns have experienced since the mid-20th century, has meant that they are right next to each other forming the Elda- Petrer conurbation. An interesting fact about Petrer is that it was the last bastion of the Republican government under Negrín, who set up his residence and the seat of government in the municipality. In Petrer we shall visit the monumental mediaeval castle built between the 12th and 14th centuries, declared a Place of Cultural Interest and where Roman and Arab remains have also been found. Their excellent state of conservation is due to the works for their reconstruction being finished in Also within the municipal boundary we find the Arenal del Amorxó municipal nature area. This is a dune formation proper to coastal areas, which is situated inland, with the presence of solids, flora and fauna characteristic of the coastal dune ecosystems: a natural extravagance worthy of being known. To end our route we will make a tour around the neighbouring Sierra del Cid, which forms a crescent-shaped massif, at either end of which we find the two peaks of the sierra. There are various different footpaths that lead us to get to know the sierra. We propose going round it on the PR.V-36. The first thing that will catch our attention on this stretch is the abundant vegetation there is on this sierra: a leafy woodland of Aleppo pine, accompanied Santa María Magdalena sanctuary. Novelda 38º 24' 47'' N 0º 47' 52'' W

7 Route 12 From Sax to Elda and Petrer has allowed us to get to know a special and surprising area, marked by winegrowing and salt extraction. Practical information Sierra Salinas 38º 30' 58'' N 0º 53' 97'' W by Holm oak and the typical low scrubland of the Mediterranean. Without doubt we are in the midst of the great green lungs of the area, which presents fertile lands to a large extent but with an arid appearance. Although modest, the animal presence is active, with the peregrine falcon, golden eagle, Eurasian sparrow hawk and goshawk, or else the wild boar, green snake, foxes and mouflons [wild mountain sheep]. As we approach the summit, the edge of the footpath drops down the hillside towards the bottom of the gully. People who cannot stand heights should stay hard by the other side of the path well away from the precipice. The summit is reached after the way has been steep and difficult, but the recompense of the views that the summit offers makes the obstacles seem few. Practically the entire group of sierras of southern Valencia is in sight, although our attention will be particularly caught to the east by the impressive Maigmó at 1,296 metres which, together with the line of the coast silhouetted against a shimmering sea, will leave the viewer in ecstasy before such visual beauty. In the immediate vicinity of the Sierra del Cid we can enjoy surprising and thrilling spots of nature if we head for the Rambla de la Rabosa, the Racó Xolí, or the Catí-Foradà Bronze Age (15th century B.C.) site. We end the route barely six kilometres from Sax, where we set out on this route that Fiestas, food and crafts The cuisine of these inland regions of L Alt Vinalopó and Vinalopó Mitjà combine traditional country produce. Among the most representative dishes found are: gazpacho [a chunky tomato soup served chilled], rice with rabbit and snails, gachamiga [flour and garlic puree], fassegures [dumplings], giraboix [cod, tomato and potato] or ajotonto [cod, garlic and potato], which may be accompanied with the famous wines of the area, amongst those that stand out the aromatic Fondillón. The dessert grape, Uva Embolsada, with its Denominación de Origen, is an unusual product of the area where dry aniseed liqueurs are also produced - the Anís Paloma of Monforte del Cid being particularly noteworthy. Saffron is also produced and sold locally. To finish, we have cakes and sweet pastries, the Mistela wine [produced from a must of mixed grape varieties and fortified with wine alcohol] and the excellent white and red wines of the area. With regard to fiestas, in the lands of Vinalapó the splendour of the Fiestas de Moros y Cristianos [Moors and Christians] is a reference not to miss on the area s festive calendar. But there are also the festivities of San Antón, the countless romerías [religious processions and local pilgrimages] to the sanctuaries and hermitages in the area, the carnivals in February [marking the beginning of Lent], with Novelda s forty-hour carnival procession standing out, and the festivals of the patron saints of every town and city. In handcrafts we find leather goods; woven chair seats and other furniture in cane, rush and fibre; festive embroidery; esparto or needle-grass craftwork, pottery, bobbin lace, and marble work.

8 Petrer castle 38º 29' 34'' N 0º 45' 75'' W Recommended time of year Any time of year is good, although preferably spring and autumn. In summer it is important to avoid the hours around midday when the sun is hottest. Lovely landscapes are made by the fields of vineyards with the autumn colours, as well as the almond tree blossom between January and February. The Laguna of La Salinas shows its sheet of rainwater before the start of winter. better or, as a minimum, one of the hybrid types. We do not come across waterspouts for quenching thirst and refreshing ourselves away from the urban centres, so we should fill up whenever we get the chance. The best times of the day to travel are very early morning and in the evening as the temperature is agreeable and the light is especially good. If anyone wants to use a car on the tracks where it is permitted to drive, the main track must never be left, since it is much better and more respectful to the environment. To get to know in more detail each area of nature that we propose, leave the vehicle parked at a suitable safe spot and make shorter trips on foot. Public transport Regional trains stop at Sax for the start of the route. For the return, the regional trains also stop at Elda-Petrer. Bicycles are transported free of charge on the railways. Recommendations In case you want to do the route just as it is proposed, by bike or on foot, a word of advice: a mountain bike is RECOMMENDED MAPS TO FOLLOW THE ROUTE CORRECTLY: National Geographic Institute: Scale 1:25,000, sheet numbers: 845-II and IV; 846-III; 870-II, III and IV; and 871-I and III. Further information: Information on regional and local trains: Renfe TOURIST INFO OFFICES FOR THE ROUTE: Tourist Info Elda C/ Nueva, Elda Tel elda@touristinfo.net Tourist Info Elda-Museo Av. Chapí, Elda elda@touristinfo.net Tourist Info Elda-Sagasta Pl. Sagasta, s/n Elda elda@touristinfo.net Tourist Info Monforte del Cid Pl. del Parador, Monforte Del Cid Tel monforte@touristinfo.net Tourist Info Novelda C/ Mayor, Novelda Tel novelda@touristinfo.net Tourist Info Petrer C/ Cura Bartolomé Muñoz, Petrer Tel Tourist Info Villena PI. de Santiago, Villena Tel villena@touristinfo.net