Mexico Boating Guide. Isla Isabela. Isla Isabela. to Punta Mita

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1 Mexico Boating Guide Between Mazatlán and Punta Mita (Banderas Bay), we ve found 6 stops on this 180-mile voyage: Isla Isabela (frigate and booby preserve), the sheltered port of San Blas, its sidekick Matanchén Bay (summer Isla Isabela to Punta Mita surf city), coco-palm clad Chacala Bay, and in flat weather Guayabitos Cove (Jaltemba). Of these, Isla Isabela and Chacala are more interesting. NOTE: If you plan to visit Isla Isabela, we suggest you try to pay the $2 fee at SEMARNAT in Mazatlán or PV before you go to Isabela, or promise to pay it as soon as you get back to the mainland, due to reports of snafus at San Blas. ROUTE PLANNING: Mazatlán to Punta Mita Between Mazatlán and San Blas we found nada for yatistas. In fair weather, we angle SSE offshore to visit Isla Isabela (86 miles), then ESE to close with the coast at San Blas (39 miles) for fuel and provisions; total 125 miles. Isabela has 2 small marginally sheltered anchorages (S and SE sides), so it s OK for light prevailing N winds of winter and spring, but not sheltered enough in a Norther, and it s wide open to S wind. San Blas straight to Punta Mita is about 47 miles SSW. If you stay coastal, this leg is about 55 miles. The Nayarit coast is fragrant jungle, hillier as you move S. Chacala is an interesting overnight anchorage; Guayabitos Cove (Jaltemba) is marginal. Pacific SW swell unsheltered by the Baja peninsula is possible in shore. Crossing: To cross the Sea of Cortez to San Blas from Las Frailes on East Cape (200 miles), a stop at Isla Isabela (at mile 160) may allow a daylight entrance at San Blas, and you ll need to avoid coming within 20 miles of all the prison colony islands, Las Islas Marias. In hurricane season, this stretch gets tropical storms from the S and evening chubascos rolling down from the Sierra Madres. Avoid it in late summer or transit quickly nonstop. Isla Isabela Isla Isabela lured Jacques Cousteau here 30 years ago to film the rare frigate nests and a pristine underwater habitat. Today, tiny Isabela (281 volcanic peak, not a mile long) is a National Wildlife Preserve managed by the University of Guadalajara. Volunteers built an unmanned observation shelter SW of the panguero village on the S end. Grad students spend their vacations studying and protecting 500 frigate and booby nests all over the island. Children of all ages are moved by this rare interaction. BookMBG2.indb 1 11/21/ :26:28 PM

2 Visitors are welcome ashore, but don t touch the nesting trees (10 to 15 tall) nor any birds or nests. Don t approach birds mating, nesting or feeding their fuzzy nestlings. Male frigates puff their huge red neck sacks. Blue-footed boobies have amazingly blue legs and feet. Brown boobies have lime green patos. Dogs and cats aren t allowed ashore, but if Fido needs to go, visit the E beach with a poop bag to remove hard evidence. Approach: Coming from Mazatlán s Isla Creston, angle SSE (about 149 M) for 86 miles to approach Isla Isabela s SE side. We avoid the NW, N, NE and E sides, due to dangerous submerged reefs and buoys among and just outside the offlying Isla Pelón (bald) (GPS N, W) close NW of the island and Las Moñas (mannequins) off the E side. A breaking rock field spreads a third of a mile square just S of Isla Pelón. The mild current generally sets you W; spring tides are 4 or less. Our GPS approach waypoint N, W is.75 of mile SE of the nav light, just S of the cove on the island s S side. Isla Isabela Light tops a hill on the island s SW corner. Caleta Isabela (South Cove) The cove on Isabela s S side is less than a quarter mile wide. Its E interior reveals the collapsed S flank of the island s primary caldera, and a lava-flow reef shields a tiny W lobe. Impinged by rocks on both sides, South Cove s main lobe for anchoring is only 240 yards wide. For one or 2 boats, it s open to swell from any S quarter, 15 Isla Isabela to Punta Mita but heavy N or NW wind makes it too rolly. A steep cliff at the head of the cove shows distinct red and black folded bands and provides the shelter, but avoid rock-fall at the cliff base. We anchor just outside the middle of the cove in 20 to 25 over sand between rock patches. NOTE: Avoid a dangerous submerged (depth 5 ) rock pinnacle a few hundred yards SSE of the rocky arm that separates the 2 lobes. Several boats report hitting it. Village Beach: South Cove s tiny W lobe is Frigate chicks are fed by both parents. Nests are just above head high. 189 BookMBG2.indb 2 11/21/ :26:32 PM

3 Mexico Boating Guide Las Moñas at Isla Isabela is the preferred spot. framed by a lava flow (great tide pools) that limits the entrance to all but pangas and dinghies. The coral and lava beach fronts seasonal Isabela Village and gives access to the frigate observatory and Crater Lake. Isabela Village gets propane and medical care monthly from San Blas. Navy patrol boats stop frequently. Observatory: Land on the SW end of Village Beach. A path zigs up through the main frigate rookery (dozens of low trees bearing frigate nests at head level) then up to the shelter roof and observatory hill. Iguanas sunbathe on the steps, hoping to be fed. Each frigate and booby nest is numbered, so volunteers with binoculars can record how many eggs, when they were laid and hatched, how many times a day the fuzzy white nestlings are fed, when they become fledglings, first flight, etc. If student volunteers are here, they welcome food and water donations. Crater Lake: The path N from the village leads past the open latrine to Crater Lake (not potable). Las Moñas (East Side) NOTE: When moving around the island s SW tip, give a wide berth due to an off-lying rock that breaks only occasionally. Las Moñas: Isabel s E side is dominated by 2 twisting rock spires (150 tall) called Las Moñas (the Mannequins, meaning women s dress-making forms) that lie 200 yards E of a sandy beach ( dog beach ). Seasonal aquaculture buoys float within a mile E of the Moñas, and a research shack is on a cliff W of the Moñas. The statuesque Moñas are fairly deep close to; we sounded 22 on the N side, 10 on the W side, 9 on the S side, 40 on the E side, and 6 in the pass between. We usually anchor S of the Moñas in 20 to 30 over shallow sand, coral rubble and then rock. If you re well set, this is good shelter in N and NW wind, usually less rolly and constricting than Caleta Isabela. However, a yate was lost recently when it dragged into Las Moñas. In calm weather, boats anchor a bit farther SE in 40 and deeper sand. Some anchor on the 10 sand shelf between the Moñas and dog beach for quick access to the middle of the island. All around the Moñas is good snorkeling, colorful corals and reef critters. A rocky shoal immediately S of the beach juts 50 offshore for more snorkeling, but the S end of this shoal breaks. By dinghy, it s half a mile between Isla Isabela s 2 anchoring spots. Each time we ve been here, the reported anchorage on the island s W side has been a mass of 190 Panga village on S side of Isla Isabela below frigate nests. BookMBG2.indb 3 11/21/ :26:35 PM

4 15 Isla Isabela to Punta Mita anchorage newer fuel dock for yachts Piedra Blanca del Tierra harbor entrance call for pilot VHF-22 SAN BLAS landlocked estuary San Cristobal Punta San Cristobal Punta Camarones Matanchén Bay breakers breakers surge and backwash. We love this remote island, but if the WX is not right for a stop, it s safer to push on. San Blas & Matanchén San Blas, Nayarit (pop. 8,500) is a small shrimp port a mile up the Rio Pozo estuary, rebuilt since hurricanes of 2003 and Offshore catches are marlin, sailfish, dorado and corbina. Snook fishing in the estuaries is picking up, but most yatistas enjoy the nice Pemex pier and good local produce. However, San Blas estuary, San Cristobal estuary and Matanchén Bay have bighting jejenes for 2 hours around sunset if the wind quits. Locals taught us to burn dried coconut husks like incense as a natural insect repellant. Huichol women sell fantastic beadwork in the plaza; it s very collectable. Just outside town, ruins of Iglesia de Nuestra Senora del Rosario and its bell tower atop Cerro San Basilio are immortalized by H. W. Longfellow s final poem, The Bells of San Blas. La Tovara is a fresh-water spring to have lunch. Matanchén Bay is 4.8 miles around 2 corners E from San Blas harbor, NE of breaker fringed Punta Camarónes. Radar paints 3.3 miles across shallow Matanchén Bay, which runs a straight line NW to SE with a small curve in the NW end. Only the middle is anchorable and only in winter and spring; it closes out June to October. Ramada cantinas line the beach for the summer surf crowd. Lay of the Land Piedra Blanca del Tierra (52 ) is less than a mile WNW of the entrance to San Blas harbor. Punta San Cristobal (GPS N, W) guards the harbor s SE approach. A striped light tower stands on the NW side of the jetty entrance, and two lighted riprap jetties and lighted buoys lead you up the channel, N then NW. Seasonal shoals inside are buoyed. Follow a shrimper or ask the Port Captain for a panga guide. In the channel, to starboard you pass the Navy dock, panga & dinghy landing, Aduana building and the old shrimper basin (rectangular) with the new 191 BookMBG2.indb 4 11/21/ :26:36 PM

5 Mexico Boating Guide Big new fuel pier in San Blas harbor is N of shrimper basin. Capitanía on its W seawall, then the new Pemex fuel pier. Another man-made basin to starboard up the channel is in flux, then around a channel bend is a newly dredged lobe of the estuary. Anchorage San Blas harbor: Anywhere W of the channel and N of the dinghy landing is good holding mud in 10 to 15, but plan for max 3-knot tidal current. The lobe 100 yards NE of the town has been dredged for anchoring and may have fewer bugs. Set screens before sunset. Matanchén Bay: When moving between the harbor and the bay, don t mistake Punta San Cristobal (estuary behind it) for Punta Camarónes (GPS N, W), which lies a mile farther east. Both points have breakers. See satellite photo. Anchor (15 soft mud) about 1.5 miles E of Punta Camarónes. Dinghy to Matanchén village in 192 the NW corner and bus to town. Dinghy vandals have been reported. Santa Cruz village in the E end is usually too rolly. Local Services San Blas is a port of entry, and its jurisdiction covers Matanchén Bay. The Capitanía is in the shrimper darsena; Aduana is a block N of the dinghy landing; Migración is 2 blocks farther N, or 2 blocks S of the plaza. If you want a ship s agent, call Irma on VHF 22. Sportfishing skipper Norm Goldie on VHF 16 and 22 helps yatistas, but some call him the Enforcer. Fuel: San Blas s new easy in, easy out Pemex pier is a stationary c o n c r e t e platform, 200 long on the channel side, 100 on both ends. Storm Bells of San Blas are silent at relief gave San Longfellow s church in ruins. Blas Mexico s cheapest diesel in 2005, but we can t tell how long it will last. Provisions: Several grocery stores and mercados uptown have excellent local fruits & veggies in winter and spring. Off the plaza is Botica, a good pharmacy. The ice house behind the shrimper darsena uses purified water, has block & cube. Misc.: We found a few hardware stores, outboard motor parts & repair shops, and commercial fisheries gear for shrimpers. As San Blas sportfishing tournament grows, we expect to see more boat supplies. Huichol women sell their beadwork at the plaze in downtown San BLas. BookMBG2.indb 5 11/21/ :26:42 PM

6 Culture & History The pretty plaza on Calle Mercado is the center of town life. May 13 starts a 2-week Virgin of Fatima festivities with special foods, dancing and arts. Nayarit s natives are the Huichol people, and their bead-covered animals and geometric objects are trendy in US and European art galleries (like molas from Panama), so if you like it, think of it as an investment and souvenir in one. Huichol women come from distant villages to San Blas zocalo or plaza. Founded in 1535, San Blas wasn t developed as a port until Father Junipero Serra and Padre Kino landed at San Blas to begin their missionary work in N Mexico. The pirate John Clipperton was captured in Matanchén Bay and hanged, thankfully after he d discovered Clipperton Island 700 miles off Acapulco. COASTWISE San Blas to Punta Mita Punta Custodias is at GPS N, W, 6 miles SSW of Punta Santa Cruz. From San Blas, lay a course 11 miles S to stay a mile off this low rocky point and to pass inside the 30 high pinnacle reported to lie 3 miles W of the point. Nine Mile Beach: The next 9-mile beach (Playa Chila) ends at a hilly 5-mile long protrusion containing Volcan Cerobuco and its smaller twin. In the middle of this green protrusion is Chacala Bay. Chacala Bay Chacala Bay lies 21 miles S of San Blas, 30 miles NE of Punta Mita, immediately SE of Punta Chacala. Its nav light is buried in palms, but our GPS position close off the S side of Punta Chacala is 15 Isla Isabela to Punta Mita N, W. Isla Tecolote (Owl) at the SW end of Chacala Bay is at GPS N, W. The tiny cove N of Chacala is rocky and not anchorable. Chacala indents only half a mile, runs.75 of a mile NE-SW. The N end s pretty beach is less than half a mile long, full of mature coco palms (former plantation) with a dozen palapa cantinas below, and Palms surround Chacala Bay. 193 BookMBG2.indb 6 11/21/ :26:46 PM

7 Mexico Boating Guide Big pier is handy landing at Chacala. Local Services The Capitanía overlooks the landing, but it s often closed. For excellent breakfast and lunch, climb the street beside the Capitanía; just over the crest there s a B & B; ask for service 30 minutes ahead. At the S end of Chacala, a holistic retreat and women s clinic is open by appointment. Take a taxi 6 miles to Las Varas (nice drive) for 2 good grocery stores, coin laundry, huge fruteria, bus to Puerto Vallarta. 2 hotels dot the S end. Semana Santa (Easter week) brings thousands of inlanders to Chacala beach with tents, RVs and jet skis. It s almost deserted unless yatistas stop in winter and spring. No fuel and few supplies are had in the village behind the N end of the bay, as provisions come from Las Varas 6 miles inland. Locals say the English pirate Thomas Cavendish was here in Chacala has some very pricey homes. Anchorage In moderate N wind, we tuck up into the NE corner (25 to 36 sand, mud) just S of the big panga landing. There s good holding anywhere NE of the Navy mooring buoy. In flat periods, you can anchor off the beach, outside the shore break. The dinghy & panga landing is inside a tiny separate bight NW of the beach. The bay s SW end is rocky. COASTWISE continued Caleta el Naranjo: 1.7 miles SSW of Punta Chacala, we haven t sounded this tiny, jungle-clad but seemingly sheltered cove with private homes. A smaller N lobe has a private pier. Punta Guayabitos: 2.5 miles S of Punta Chacala, this forested bluff is the N end of the 6-mile long beach that ends at Guayabitos Cove. Guayabitos Cove This cove with indifferent anchorage is 23 miles NE of Punta Mita, 28 miles S of San Blas. Three resort villages, Jaltemba (pronounced hahl-taymbah), Rincon de Guayabitos (guavas corner) and Los Ayala, crowded the S end of this 6-mile long beach that starts at Punta Guayabitos (GPS N, W) and curves SW along Playa Jaltemba to end at Guayabitos Cove, which lies 1.2 miles SE of the prominent Punta Raza headland (GPS N, W). Playa Jaltemba is N of Guayabitos Cove; Los Ayala is private homes that climb the hillside in the Navy base cove between La Puntilla and Punta Raza. Isla la Peña (GPS N, W) is rounded, palm-and-guano clad, and has 2 docks and a restaurant. It lies a mile NE of Punta Raza and 5 miles SW of 194 Provisioning at Las Varas yields tropical fruits galore. BookMBG2.indb 7 11/21/ :26:50 PM

8 Guayabitos Cove is pretty, best in flat calms or S wind. 15 Isla Isabela to Punta Mita Punta Guayabitos, so it somewhat shelters Guayabitos Cove from N wind. Peña is the nautical term for the top of a mizzen mast. A smaller islet half a mile SSW of Isla la Peña is wreathed in rocky shoals where crabs pots are set. In light S wind, we ve anchored off Los Ayala in 14 to 23 over sand; it s tight beside the Navy mooring, and Ayala an get refraction around Punta Raza. In moderate S wind, anchor among the panga buoys in Guayabitos Cove, 12 to 17 over sand. Weekend nights can be disco noisy, but the hotels beach cantinas have early morning espresso. In N weather, the only shelter is S of Isla la Peña. Anchor in about 30 outside the coral heads, but it s not very sheltered. The delicate corals are protected by law. Guayabitos Cove is a fair-weather stop, and even then we don t leave a boat unattended. Fonatur has plans to build a marina off the island. North Head (GPS N, W) is the bold N tip of the Punta Mita headland, which runs almost 2.5 miles NE to SW. North Head has 545 cone-shaped hills and radio antennas. Punta Mita: Round all sides of Punta Mita at least a mile off to avoid dangerous pinnacles. We use the name Punta Mita, because that s what the locals call it. See next chapter. COASTWISE to Punta Mita Half a mile SW of Punta Raza, a shallow boat channel leads E to homes on three S channels. The next 23 miles SW to the Punta Mita headland are sculpted by small beaches backed by Highway 200. We stay 2 or 3 miles off. Punta Sayulita: Ten miles NE of Punta Mita s N flank, this forested point juts NE forming a 2-mile wide bay, crescent beach and artsy town of Sayulita. Waves wrap the corner in any amount of wind and the bottom is rocky. Ensenada Litibu, the 5-mile wide bay SE of North Head, is backed by low land only half a mile wide, so development spills over from Punta Mita. 195 BookMBG2.indb 8 11/21/ :26:52 PM