JAPAN CHRIS ROWTHORN ANDREW BENDER, MATTHEW D FIRESTONE, TIMOTHY N HORNYAK, BENEDICT WALKER, PAUL WARHAM, WENDY YANAGIHARA
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1 discover JAPAN CHRIS ROWTHORN ANDREW BENDER, MATTHEW D FIRESTONE, TIMOTHY N HORNYAK, BENEDICT WALKER, PAUL WARHAM, WENDY YANAGIHARA
2 2 NORTHERN HONSH & HOKKAID± p205 CENTRAL HONSH p163 TOKYO AREA p51 WESTERN HONSH, SHIKOKU & KY SH p245 KYOTO & KANSAI p97 OKINAWA & THE SOUTHWEST ISLANDS p285
3 3 DISCOVER JAPAN Tokyo Area (p51) Japan s frenetic capital is surrounded by attractions including Mt Fuji, Nikkō, Kamakura and the Ogasawarashotō island group. Kyoto & Kansai (p97) Japan s cultural capital, Kyoto, is a must-see attraction; the Kansai region contains many first-rate sights such as Nara and Kōya-san. Central Honshū (p163) Central Honshū is home to the Japan Alps and several historic cities including Kanazawa, Takayama and Matsumoto. Northern Honshū & Hokkaidō (p205) Honshū s seldom-visited north offers good hiking and historic towns; Hokkaidō features incredible skiing, driving and outdoor adventures. Western Honshū, Shikoku & Kyūshū (p245) Western Honshū and the adjoining islands of Shikoku and Kyūshū boast history, coastal scenery and outdoor attractions. Okinawa & the Southwest Islands (p285) Japan s Southwest Islands offer excellent beaches, hiking, snorkelling, diving and a unique culture that s not quite Japanese.
4 4 CONTENTS THIS IS JAPAN 10 JAPAN S TOP 25 EXPERIENCES 13 JAPAN S TOP ITINERARIES 31 PLANNING YOUR TRIP 39 TOKYO AREA 51 HIGHLIGHTS 54 THE BEST 60 THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW 61 DISCOVER THE TOKYO AREA 62 TOKYO 62 Orientation 62 Information 62 Sights 63 Kagurazaka Walking Tour 73 Sleeping 74 Eating 76 Drinking 79 Entertainment 80 Shopping 80 Getting There & Away 80 Getting Around 80 NORTH OF TOKYO 82 Nikkō 82 Minakami & Takaragawa Onsen 87 WEST OF TOKYO 88 Mt Fuji Area 88 SOUTH OF TOKYO 92 Kamakura 92 OGASAWARA-SHOTŌ 95 Chichi-jima 95 Haha-jima 96 KYOTO & KANSAI 97 HIGHLIGHTS 100 THE BEST 108 THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW 109
5 5 DISCOVER KYOTO & KANSAI 110 KYOTO 110 History 110 Orientation 111 Information 114 Sights & Activities 114 Southern Higashiyama Walking Tour 130 Festivals & Events 131 Sleeping 132 Eating 136 Entertainment 140 Shopping 141 Getting There & Away 142 Getting Around 143 NORTHERN KANSAI 145 Kinosaki 145 OSAKA 146 Information 146 Sights & Activities 146 Festivals & Events 148 Sleeping 148 Getting There & Away 149 HIMEJI 149 Orientation & Information 149 Sights 149 Eating 150 Getting There & Away 151 NARA 151 History 151 Orientation 153 Information 153 Sights 153 Sleeping 155 Eating 156 Getting There & Away 156 KII-HANTŌ 157 Kōya-san 157 ISE-SHIMA 160 Ise 160 CENTRAL HONSHŪ 163 HIGHLIGHTS 166 THE BEST 172 THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW 173 CENTRAL HONSHŪ ITINERARIES 174 DISCOVER CENTRAL HONSHŪ 176 HIDA DISTRICT 176 Takayama 176 Shirakawa-gō & Gokayama 180 JAPAN ALPS NATIONAL PARK 183 Kamikōchi 183 Shin-Hotaka Onsen 185 NAGANO-KEN 186 Nagano 186 Shiga Kōgen 188 Nozawa Onsen 188 Hakuba 189 Matsumoto 190 Kiso Valley Region 191 TOYAMA-KEN 193 Tateyama Kurobe Alpen Route 193 ISHIKAWA-KEN 194 Kanazawa 194 Noto-hantō 200 FUKUI-KEN 204 Eihei-ji 204 NORTHERN HONSHŪ & HOKKAIDŌ 205 HIGHLIGHTS 208 THE BEST 212 THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW 213 NORTHERN HONSHŪ & HOKKAIDŌ ITINERARIES 214 DISCOVER NORTHERN HONSHŪ & HOKKAIDŌ 216 NORTHERN HONSHŪ 216 Matsushima & Oku-Matsushima 216 Hiraizumi 218 Hakkōda-san 219 Tazawa-ko 220
6 6 Kakunodate 222 Dewa Sanzan 222 Sado-ga-shima 225 HOKKAIDŌ 227 Sapporo 227 Niseko 236 Daisetsuzan National Park 239 WESTERN HONSHŪ, SHIKOKU & KYŪSHŪ 245 HIGHLIGHTS 248 THE BEST 252 THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW 253 WESTERN HONSHŪ, SHIKOKU & KYŪSHŪ ITINERARIES 254 DISCOVER WESTERN HONSHŪ, SHIKOKU & KYŪSHŪ 256 WESTERN HONSHŪ 256 Hiroshima 256 Miyajima 262 Naoshima 264 Izumo 266 SHIKOKU 267 Kōchi 267 Matsuyama 269 KYŪSHŪ 273 Nagasaki 273 Aso-san Area 279 Kurokawa Onsen 282 Kirishima-Yaku National Park 283 OKINAWA & THE SOUTHWEST ISLANDS 285 HIGHLIGHTS 288 THE BEST 292 THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW 293 OKINAWA & THE SOUTHWEST ISLANDS ITINERARIES 294 DISCOVER OKINAWA & THE SOUTHWEST ISLANDS 296 KAGOSHIMA-KEN 297 Yakushima 297 OKINAWA-KEN 303 Okinawa-hontō 303 Japanese bonsai RICHARD CUMMINS
7 7 Islands Near Okinawa-hontō 310 Yaeyama-shotō 311 JAPAN IN FOCUS 323 FAMILY TRAVEL 324 FOOD 326 HISTORY 335 KYOTO S GEISHA 346 ONSEN 348 RYOKAN 350 SAKE 352 SKIING & SNOWBOARDING 354 DIRECTORY & TRANSPORT 357 DIRECTORY 358 Accommodation 358 Activities 359 Climate 360 Customs 361 Dangers & Annoyances 361 Embassies & Consulates 362 Festivals & Events 363 Gay & Lesbian Travellers 363 Health 363 Holidays 365 Insurance 365 Internet Access 366 Left Luggage 366 Legal Matters 366 Maps 367 Money 367 Telephone 369 Time 370 Toilets 370 Tourist Information 371 Travellers with Disabilities 371 Visas 372 Women Travellers 372 TRANSPORT 373 GETTING THERE & AWAY 373 GETTING AROUND 374 GLOSSARY 381 BEHIND THE SCENES 383 INDEX 390 MAP LEGEND 400 NORTHERN HONSH & HOKKAID± p205 CENTRAL WESTERN HONSH HONSH, SHIKOKU p163 & KY SH p245 KYOTO & KANSAI p97 OKINAWA & THE SOUTHWEST ISLANDS p285 TOKYO AREA p51
8 CHINA Inset KAGOSHIMA KY SH 123ºE RUSSIA See Main Map Tanegashima YAKUSHIMA 30ºN p297 Yakushima TokarashotŸ Head into moss-covered forests to find the 3000-year-old tree, JŸmon-sugi Amami-shotŸ EAST CHINA IRIOMOTE-JIMA Naze SEA p316 Dive with mantas, snorkel on pristine reefs and kayak up jungle rivers NanseishotŸ Okinawa-hontŸ Nago Okinawa City NAHA SEA OF JAPAN 26ºN 129ºE Miyako-shotŸ Hirara IriomoteIshigaki jima Yaeyama-shotŸ km 120 miles Pyongyang TAKAYAMA NORTH KOREA p176 This town is both a gateway to the Japan Alps and a fascinating historical destination KYOTO SOUTH KOREA HIROSHIMA p110 Noto-hantŸ Find the Japan of your imagination in the nation s culture capital p256 TOYAMA KANAZAWA OkishotŸ Learn the tragic history of this city and marvel at its recovery FUKUI MATSUE TOTTORI Shimonoseki FUKUOKA (HAKATA) GotŸ-rettŸ Nagasaki KUMAMOTO AmakusashotŸ Kagoshima See Inset KANSAI KYOTO NAGOYA K±BE Nara Usuki Aso-san Yatsushiro KY SH MIYAZAKI 132ºE Airport NARA p151 Check out Japan s first permanent capital which boasts eight World Heritage sites PACIFIC OCEAN S TSU OSAKA HIROSHIMA TAKAMATSU WAKAYAMA TOKUSHIMA Kitaky sh MATSUYAMA Kansai Shing Beppu International Oita SHIKOKU K±CHI KAGOSHIMA 129ºE 00-prelims.indd 8 San-yŸ OKAYAMA Himeji Hagi Tsu-shima HONSH Takayama Biwa-ko GIFU Izumo Hamada S Nort hern J SEOUL 135ºE 1/12/ :17:31 AM S
9 r t o NISEKO Ski or snowboard some of the world s most reliable lift-served powder Shakotan-hantŸ Sakhalin-tŸ Wakkanai Rebun-tŸ Rishiri-tŸ p236 Takikawa Otaru Niseko SAPPORO S E A O F O K H O T S K Shiretoko-hantŸ Shiretoko Daisetsuzan National Park Kunashiri-tŸ National Park Abashiri Biei Akan Shikotan-tŸ National HOKKAID± Park Habomaisho Obihiro Kushiro Nemuro-hantŸ Iturup (Etorofu)-tŸ HoppŸryŸdo (Kuril Islands) R U S S I A Urup-tŸ 44ºN Okushiri-tŸ 42ºN Hakodate Seikan Tunnel Osore-zan AOMORI Hachinohe DAISETSUZAN NATIONAL PARK p239 Hike across the roof of HokkaidŸ in one of Japan s most stunning national parks 40ºN Tazawa-ko AKITA MORIOKA Akita Kakunodate Sakata Mizusawa Hiraizumi Tsuruoka Sado-ga- ShinjŸ TŸhoku shima Kinkasan YAMAGATA SENDAI NIIGATA JŸetsu Yamagata FUKUSHIMA JAPAN ALPS p183 Hike from hut to hut amid towering mountain peaks 38ºN P A C I F I C O C E A N a p a n J r e h N n s p l A Southern Japan Alps HONSH NAGANO NikkŸ Matsumoto UTSUNOMIYA MITO MAEBASHI Tokyo Narita Hokuriku URAWA International Airport TOKYO K±FU CHIBA YOKOHAMA Mt Fuji SHIZUOKA (3776m) IzuhantŸ ±-shima Izu-shotŸ Shikine-jima TŸkaidŸ Miyake-jima MT FUJI TOKYO Visit Japan s thriving cosmopolitan capital it s Asia s city of the future Climb the perfect cone of Fuji and watch a new day dawn over Japan p88 p62 34ºN 36ºN ELEVATION 3000m 2000m 1000m 200m 0 CHICHI-JIMA 138ºE HachijŸ-jima Take the 25-hour ferry to Japan s dolphin- and whale-watching mecca To Ogasawara-shotŸ (500km) p95 141ºE Ogasawara-shotŸ Inset Chichi-jima Hahajima Not to scale 144ºE 32ºN 0 0 LEGEND Freeway Primary Road Secondary Road Railway 147ºE 200 km 120 miles
10 10 THIS IS JAPAN Japan is a world apart a wonderful little planet floating off the coast of China. It is a kind of cultural Galapagos, a place where a unique civilisation was allowed to grow and unfold on its own, unmolested by invading powers. Even today, the world struggles to categorise Japan: is it the world s most advanced technological civilisation, or a bastion of traditional Asian culture? Has the country become just another outpost of the West, or is there something decidedly Eastern lurking under the veneer of its familiar modernity? There are no easy answers, but there is plenty of pleasure to be had in looking for them. First and foremost, Japan is a place of delicious contrasts: ancient temples and futuristic cities; mist-shrouded hills and lightning-fast bullet trains; kimono-clad geisha and suit-clad businesspeople; quaint thatch-roofed villages and pulsating neon urban
11 11 jungles. This peculiar synthesis of the modern and the traditional is one of the things that makes travel in Japan such a fascinating experience. Japan is arguably the easiest country in Asia in which to travel; while English may not be as widely spoken as in places such as Singapore, the country s brilliant infrastructure, first-class public transport system and friendly people make travelling here a breeze. Despite having all the developed-world conveniences (and then some), Japan offers regular doses of exoticism and wonder. Best of all, Japan is one of the cheapest countries ancient temples and futuristic cities; mist-shrouded hills and lightning-fast bullet trains in the developed world and no country on earth offers as much bang for the buck. All told, Japan is an eminently rewarding travel destination.
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