COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL. Contents at a Glance

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1 Contents at a Glance Introduction...1 Part I: Introducing Germany...7 Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Germany...9 Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany...15 Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go...24 Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options...38 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany...47 Chapter 5: Managing Your Money...49 Chapter 6: Getting to Germany...60 Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany...67 Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations...79 Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests...86 Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details...94 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin Chapter 13: Hamburg, Bremen, and Lübeck: Hanseatic Cities of the North Chapter 14: Dresden, Leipzig, and Weimar: Jewels of the East Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit Chapter 16: Going Beyond Munich: The Romantic Road and Day Trips in Bavaria Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest: Scenic Southwest Delights Chapter 18: Heidelberg, Stuttgart, and Nuremberg: Castles and Kaisers Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine Chapter 20: Frankfurt am Main: Apple Wine and Euros Part V: The Part of Tens Chapter 21: Ten German Lessons Chapter 22: Ten of the Best German Hotels Chapter 23: Ten (Or So) Things to Know About German Wine Appendix: Quick Concierge Index COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL

3 Maps at a Glance The Regions in Brief...25 Berlin Neighborhoods Western Berlin Accommodations and Dining Berlin-Mitte Accommodations and Dining Tiergarten-Area Attractions Charlottenburg Attractions Berlin-Mitte Attractions Potsdam Hamburg Hamburg U-Bahn and S-Bahn Bremen Lübeck Saxony and Thuringia Dresden: Florence on the Elbe The Zwinger Leipzig Leipzig S-Bahn and Trams Weimar Munich Neighborhoods Munich U-Bahn and S-Bahn Central Munich Accommodations and Dining Central Munich Attractions Deutsches Museum The Residenz The Romantic Road Würzburg Rothenburg ob der Tauber Augsburg Füssen Garmisch-Partenkirchen The Bodensee (Lake Constance) Lindau The Schwarzwald (Black Forest) Baden-Baden Freiburg Heidelberg Stuttgart Stuttgart U-Bahn and S-Bahn Nuremberg The Rhineland Cologne Cologne U-Bahn and S-Bahn The Mosel Valley Frankfurt am Main Frankfurt U-Bahn and S-Bahn...391

5 Table of Contents Introduction...1 About This Book...2 Conventions Used in This Book...2 Foolish Assumptions...3 How This Book Is Organized...4 Part I: Introducing Germany...4 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany...4 Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany...4 Part IV: Southern and Western Germany...5 Part V: The Part of Tens...5 Icons Used in This Book...6 Where to Go from Here...6 Part I: Introducing Germany...7 Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Germany...9 Discovering the Best Big German Cities...10 Roaming the Most Romantic Landscapes...11 Marveling over the Best Castles and Palaces...11 Exploring the Best Small Towns and Cities...12 Enjoying the Best in Music, Opera, and Ballet...13 Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Germany...15 The Main Events: Tracking Germany s History...15 Building Blocks: Looking at Local Architecture...18 Essen und Trinken: Eating and Drinking in Germany...19 Background Check: Finding Germany in Books and Movies...21 Books...21 Movies...22 Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go...24 Going Where You Want to Be...24 Discovering northern Germany...24 Exploring eastern Germany...26 Savoring southern Germany...26 Wending through western Germany...27 Scheduling Your Time...28 Revealing the Secret of the Seasons...29 Traveling during high and low seasons...29 Watching those unpredictable skies...30

6 xii Germany For Dummies, 4th Edition Blossoming in spring...31 Shining (and raining) in summer...32 Glowing in autumn...32 Welcoming winter...33 Perusing a Calendar of Events...34 January...34 February...34 May...34 June...35 July...35 August...36 September...36 October...36 November...37 December...37 Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options...38 Just the Highlights: Germany in One Week...38 East Side, West Side: Germany in Two Weeks...40 Discovering Germany with Kids...44 Prosit! Germany for Wine Lovers...46 Part II: Planning Your Trip to Germany...47 Chapter 5: Managing Your Money...49 Planning Your Budget...49 Transportation costs...49 Lodging expenses...51 Dining expenses...51 Sightseeing expenses...52 Shopping and nightlife costs...53 Handling Money...55 Using ATMs and carrying cash...56 Charging ahead with credit cards...56 Toting traveler s checks...57 Dealing with a lost or stolen wallet...57 Taking Taxes into Account...58 A Tip about Tipping...58 Chapter 6: Getting to Germany...60 Finding Out Which Airlines Fly Where...60 Flying into Frankfurt...60 Flying into other German airports...61 Getting the best deal on your airfare...62

7 Table of Contents xiii Arriving by Other Means...63 Traveling by train...63 Arriving by boat...64 Joining an Escorted Tour...64 Choosing a Package Tour...65 Chapter 7: Getting Around Germany...67 Weighing the Options: Train or Car?...67 Taking the Train: The Easy Way to Go...68 Heading to the Hauptbahnhof...68 Beginning basic training...68 Buying your ticket...70 Reserving your seat...70 Getting off on the right track...71 Saving time and money with rail passes...71 German Rail passes: For Deutschland only...72 Eurail Global Pass: For travel throughout Europe.73 Touring by Car: Autobahns, Tankstellen, and Benzin...73 Renting a car in Germany...73 Taking the roads less traveled...75 Following the rules of the road...76 Handling a roadside emergency...76 Fill er up, bitte (please)...77 Sailing through Germany: River Cruises...77 Flying Around Germany: A Good Idea?...78 Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations...79 Finding the Place That s Right for You...80 Luxury hotels...81 Boutique hotels...81 Chain hotels...81 Smaller independent hotels...82 Guesthouses...82 Pensions...83 Finding the Best Room at the Best Rate...83 Surfing the Web for Hotel Deals...84 Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests...86 Traveling with the Brood: Advice for Families...86 Locating family-friendly businesses...87 Hiring a baby sitter in Germany...88 Making Age Work for You: Tips for Seniors...88 Accessing Germany: Advice for People with Disabilities...89 Locating resources...89 Touring in a Rollstuhl (wheelchair)...90

8 xiv Germany For Dummies, 4th Edition Following the Rainbow: Resources for Gays and Lesbians...91 Celebrating gay pride in Germany...92 Finding gay-friendly travel agents and tour operators...93 Researching German lesbigay life on the Web...93 Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details...94 Getting a Passport...94 Applying for a U.S. passport...94 Applying for other passports...95 Playing It Safe with Travel and Medical Insurance...96 Staying Healthy When You Travel...97 Staying Connected by Cellphone or Using a cellphone outside the U.S Voice-over Internet Protocol (VOIP)...99 Accessing the Internet away from home Keeping Up with Airline Security Part III: Northern and Eastern Germany Chapter 11: Settling Into Berlin Getting There By plane By train Arriving at Berlin s Hauptbahnhof By car Finding Information after You Arrive Orienting Yourself in Berlin Introducing western Berlin Introducing Berlin-Mitte (Berlin Center) Getting Around Berlin Going public: U-Bahn, S-Bahn, bus, and Strassenbahn Taking a taxi Driving a car Staying in Style The top hotels Runner-up hotels Dining Out The top restaurants The best cafes...132

9 Table of Contents xv Chapter 12: Exploring Berlin Sightseeing in Berlin Saving money with a museum pass Discovering the top attractions from A to Z Finding more cool things to see and do Seeing Berlin by Guided Tour Bus tours Walking tours Boat tours Following an Itinerary If you have one day in Berlin If you have two days in Berlin If you have three days in Berlin Shopping for Local Treasures Shopping in western Berlin Shopping in eastern Berlin Discovering Nightlife in Berlin Finding out what s happening Getting tickets Raising the curtain on performing arts and music Checking out the dance clubs and bars Day-Tripping to Potsdam and the Palace of Sanssouci Getting there Finding tourist information Discovering the top attractions Dining at Sanssouci Fast Facts: Berlin Chapter 13: Hamburg, Bremen, and Lübeck: Hanseatic Cities of the North Hamburg: Germany s Gateway to the World Getting there Finding information Taking a bus tour Orienting yourself Getting around Hamburg Staying in Hamburg Dining in Hamburg Exploring Hamburg Shopping in Hamburg Living it up after dark in Hamburg...189

10 xvi Germany For Dummies, 4th Edition A Side Trip: Bremen Getting to Bremen Finding information and taking a tour Dining in Bremen Exploring Bremen Lübeck: In a (Hanseatic) League of Its Own Getting there Finding information and taking a walking tour Orienting yourself Getting around Lübeck Staying in Lübeck Dining in Lübeck Walking through Lübeck Chapter 14: Dresden, Leipzig, and Weimar: Jewels of the East Dresden: Florence on the Elbe Getting there Finding information Orienting yourself Getting around Dresden Seeing Dresden by guided tour Staying in Dresden Dining in Dresden Exploring Dresden Shopping in Dresden Discovering nightlife in Dresden Leipzig: City of Heroes Getting there Finding information and taking a tour Getting around Leipzig Staying in Leipzig Dining in Leipzig Exploring Leipzig Shopping in Leipzig Discovering nightlife in Leipzig Weimar: Capital of the Enlightenment Getting there Finding information and taking a tour Staying in Weimar Dining in Weimar Exploring Weimar Exploring the Thüringer Wald (Thuringian Forest) Shopping in Weimar Discovering nightlife in Weimar...241

11 Table of Contents xvii Part IV: Southern and Western Germany Chapter 15: Munich: Capital of Gemütlichkeit Getting There By plane By train By car Finding Information after You Arrive Orienting Yourself in Munich Getting Around Munich Using public transportation Catching a cab Staying in Style The top hotels Runner-up hotels Dining Out The top restaurants The best beer gardens Sightseeing in Munich Discovering the top attractions from A to Z Finding more cool things to see and do Seeing Munich by Guided Tour Shopping for Local Treasures Discovering Nightlife in Munich Raising the curtain on performing arts and music Checking out bars and clubs Fast Facts: Munich Chapter 16: Going Beyond Munich: The Romantic Road and Day Trips in Bavaria The Romantic Road: Seeing the Best of Bavaria Würzburg: Franconian Fortress Getting there Finding information Staying in Würzburg Dining in Würzburg Exploring Würzburg Driving from Würzburg to Rothenburg Rothenburg ob der Tauber: Medieval Memories Getting there Finding information Staying in Rothenburg Dining in Rothenburg ob der Tauber...292

12 xviii Germany For Dummies, 4th Edition Exploring Rothenburg ob der Tauber Shopping in Rothenburg Driving from Rothenburg to Augsburg Augsburg: Reminders of the Renaissance Getting there Finding information and taking a tour Staying in Augsburg Dining in Augsburg Exploring Augsburg Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau: Castles in the Air Getting there Finding information and buying tickets Exploring Hohenschwangau Exploring Neuschwanstein Dining near the castles Füssen: End of the (Romantic) Road Getting there Finding information Staying in Füssen Dining in Füssen Exploring Füssen Garmisch-Partenkirchen: Doing the Zugspitze Getting there Finding information Getting around Garmisch-Partenkirchen Staying in Garmisch-Partenkirchen Dining in Garmisch-Partenkirchen Exploring Garmisch-Partenkirchen Ascending the Zugspitze Discovering the local nightlife A side trip to Schloss Linderhof: Ludwig s little Versailles Chapter 17: The Bodensee and the Black Forest: Scenic Southwest Delights The Bodensee (Lake Constance) Lindau: Sunny island charmer Mainau: A day trip from Lindau The Schwarzwald (Black Forest) Baden-Baden: Germany s premier spa town Freiburg: Little brooks and lots of books...329

13 Table of Contents xix Chapter 18: Heidelberg, Stuttgart, and Nuremberg: Castles and Kaisers Heidelberg: Romance on the River Getting there Finding information Taking a guided tour Orienting yourself Getting around Heidelberg Staying in Heidelberg Dining in Heidelberg Exploring Heidelberg Shopping in Heidelberg Living it up after dark in Heidelberg A Side Trip to Stuttgart Getting to Stuttgart Finding information and taking a tour Dining in Stuttgart Exploring Stuttgart Stuttgart performing arts Shopping in Stuttgart Nuremberg: Renaissance and Rebirth Getting there Finding information and taking a tour Orienting yourself Getting around Nuremberg Staying in Nuremberg Dining in Nuremberg Exploring Nuremberg Shopping in Nuremberg Living it up after dark in Nuremberg Chapter 19: Cologne and the Romance of the Rhine Cologne: Pleasures beside the Rhine Getting there Finding information Getting oriented Getting around Staying in Cologne Dining in Cologne Exploring Cologne Shopping in Cologne Discovering nightlife in Cologne The Mosel Valley: Great Wines, Beautiful Scenery Touring the valley by boat or car Stopping in Cochem...382

14 xx Germany For Dummies, 4th Edition Chapter 20: Frankfurt am Main: Apple Wine and Euros Getting There By plane By train By car Finding Information after You Arrive Orienting Yourself in Frankfurt Getting Around Frankfurt Using public transportation Taking a taxi Staying in Style Dining Out Sightseeing in Frankfurt Walking through the city Discovering the top attractions from A to Z Seeing Frankfurt by Guided Tour Shopping for Local Treasures Department stores Porcelain Discovering Nightlife in Frankfurt Raising the curtain on the performing arts Having fun at a cabaret Checking out bars and clubs Fast Facts: Frankfurt Part V: The Part of Tens Chapter 21: Ten German Lessons Basic Words and Phrases Accommodations Colors Days of the Week Directions Entertainment and Attractions Numbers Time Transportation Warning Signs Chapter 22: Ten of the Best German Hotels Der Europäische Hof-Hotel Europa, Heidelberg Der Kleine Prinz, Baden-Baden Excelsior Hotel Ernst, Cologne Grand Hyatt Berlin...416

15 Table of Contents xxi Hotel Adlon Kempinski, Berlin Hotel am Josephsplatz, Nuremberg Hotel Eisenhut, Rothenburg Kempinski Hotel Atlantic Hamburg Mandarin Oriental, Munich Steigenberger Hotel De Saxe, Dresden Chapter 23: Ten (Or So) Things to Know About German Wine Tafelwein Deutscher Tafelwein Deutscher Landwein Qualitätswein Prädikatswein Kabinett Spätlese Auslese Beerenauslese Eiswein Trockenbeerenauslese Appendix: Quick Concierge Fast Facts Toll-Free Numbers and Web Sites Major airlines serving Germany Major car-rental agencies operating in Germany Major hotel chains in Germany Where to Get More Information Contacting regional tourist boards Surfing the Net Index...431

Introduction...1 Part I: Introducing Boston...7. Part II: Planning Your Trip to Boston Part III: Settling Into Boston...73

Contents at a Glance Introduction...1 Part I: Introducing Boston...7 Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Boston...9 Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Boston...16 Chapter 3: Deciding When to Go...26 Chapter