Route 2. From Culla to Benicarló. Alt and Baix Maestrat, farmsteads and roads bound up with the landscape and the use of stone

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1 RUTA2y3_22a41 OK ingles:rutas 02/07/10 13:25 Página 22 Alt and Baix Maestrat, farmsteads and roads bound up with the landscape and the use of stone Route 2 From Culla to Benicarló Hermitage: Ermita de la Esperança Hermitage: Ermita de Sant Pere Màrtir Hermitage: Ermita de Sant Pau Tree monument: Árbol monumental. Farmhouse: Masía de la Bassa. Waterspout: Font de la Carrasca Castle: Castell de Culla Hermitage: Ermita de Sant Cristòfol Spa and Waterspout: Balneario y Font d En Segures Waterspout: Font dels Horts Tree Monument: Roure pare (oak tree) Farmhouse: Mas de la Montalbana Cave: Cueva Remigia Waterspout: Fuente Regatxol Waterspout: Fuente de Les Guitarres Farmstead: Mas de Les Casetes Farmstead: Mas de Magres Farmstead: Mas de Blai Waterspout: Font de La Pinella Hermitage: Ermita de La Llàcua Farmhouse: Masía de La Salvassoria Spa and Waterspout: Balneario y Fuente de L Avellà 21 Hermitage: Ermita de Santa Ana 22 Hermitage: Ermita de Sant Vicent Ferrer 23 Hermitage: Ermita de Santa Bárbara 24 Rock Paintings: Pinturas rupestres de la Valltorta 25 Sanctuary: Santuario Mare de Déu dels Ángels 26 Hermitage: Ermita de San Cristòfol 27 Castle Ruins: Ruinas Castillo Cervera 28 Farmstead: Mas d Aragó 29 Hermitage: Ermita del Carmen 30 Hermitage: Ermita de la Mare de Déu del Socors 31 Hermitage: Ermita de Sant Gregori 32 Hotel: Parador de Turismo de Benicarló 33 Iberian Age Settlement: Poblado íbero del Puig

22-23 This route will take us, on the one hand, to inland mountain territories dotted with farmsteads, and on the other hand to a coastal area of secluded beaches in the environs of Benicarló.

2 22-23 This route will take us, on the one hand, to inland mountain territories dotted with farmsteads, and on the other hand to a coastal area of secluded beaches in the environs of Benicarló. Inland, at the Alt Maestrat we will be impressed by its mountains, where waters gush forth giving life to agreeable and peaceful spas and natural bathing resorts [known in Spanish as balnearios ]. The hermitages and sanctuaries in the area invite all to participate every year in the traditional romerías [local pilgrimages or religious processions]. A quiet stroll through the different points along the route will show us the traditional use of stone, a resource bound up with the inhabitants of this land, who used it for their daily life and work. They used the stone for building houses, corrals and pens, stables, warehouses... In the Alt and Baix Maestrat regions we can find imposing farmsteads that give the landscape cultural value. Just as these farmsteads have today become an integral part of the landscape, so too the roads, livestock tracks and footpaths which facilitated the movement of people and animals have remained an integral part of the landscape. Today these traditional rights of way are the means of access for cultural and environmental tourism. From Albocàsser to Benasal, travelling through an impressive mountain landscape We start our excursion along roads between almond and olive trees, in a beautiful valley in which Albocàsser is situated. The village has an interesting mediaeval centre and we can begin the visit with its main plaza, where the town hall is found and the parish church stands, a severe baroque building which houses in its interior some delightful Gothic altarpieces like those of Els Sant Joans and that of L Esperança. We can pause at its stone portal, where the sculpture of two bodies with embedded pilasters is notable and a figure of the Virgen de la Asunción. Also of note, the hermitages of La Esperança from the 15th century, Sant Miquel, from the 15th to 18th centuries, Sant Pere Màrtir, from the 15th century, and the 15th to 18th century hermitage-lodgings of Sant Pau, declared a Place of Cultural Interest and one of the most harmonious, welcoming and well-loved religious sites in these lands of the interior. We leave Albocàsser, and on a quiet road where we find the Sant Joan hermitage, head for Torre d En Besora, one of the most peculiar and charming places in Castellón. Once we have reached Torre d En Besora, we must visit its parish church and we also stop at the remains of the mediaeval defensive wall. Its peaceful streets will invite us to take a stroll through the town. We set out from Torre d En Besora to head for Culla and, on the way, we will be able to see the largest Holm oak in Valencian territory, declared a tree monument by the Region of Valencia for its 25 metres height and a girth of around seven metres. It is at the farmhouse, Masía de la Bassa, and in its vicinity we can enjoy a privileged setting at the Fuente de la Carrasca [waterspout of the Holm oak, carrasca being another common name for this variety in Spanish]. Arriving at Culla its location will impress us. Its mountainous geography is characterised by great differences in level, deep ravines, and numerous caves and precipices, which make the area a place of special natural and scenic attraction. Culla is set around some ruins of what was originally an Iberian castle, then Arab and Christian successively. The town retains the mediaeval layout of its urban centre. Its old quarter has been declared a Historic-Artistic monument. From among its monuments, we will be able to visit the remains of Culla castle, which was destroyed and razed to the ground in the Carlist wars and it is still possible to see the Frare Pere tower and the entrance to the castle s Barbican, with its coats of arms of the Order of Montesa. We will pay special attention to the Presó, a former granary which was used as a prison during the Carlist wars. Also of interest is the 18th century parish church of El Salvador and the Sant

Route 2 From Culla to Benicarló Through the barranc dels Horts on the way to Ares del Maestre Albocàsser 40º 21' 56'' N 0º 1' 15'' E Cristòfol hermitage, on a hill on the outskirts.

five hundred metres free fall. Continuing the route through the Alt and Baix Maestrat we move on to Benasal well known for its water and its beneficial effects.

the nature park of the same name. Along this route we will also pass at the foot of the San Cristòfol hermitage, teetering at the top of a hill which offers stunning vantage points.

3 Route 2 From Culla to Benicarló Through the barranc dels Horts on the way to Ares del Maestre Albocàsser 40º 21' 56'' N 0º 1' 15'' E Cristòfol hermitage, on a hill on the outskirts. Very recommendable is to go along the old path to Vistabella, which leads to the bed of the river Montlleó, with its impressive spots of Penya Calva and the Cingle Vert, with rock faces of more than five hundred metres free fall. Continuing the route through the Alt and Baix Maestrat we move on to Benasal well known for its water and its beneficial effects. On the way we will be able to admire the landscapes that open up to the west, along the course of the river Montlleó, discovering on its opposite part the impressive mass of the Penyagolosa, inside the nature park of the same name. Along this route we will also pass at the foot of the San Cristòfol hermitage, teetering at the top of a hill which offers stunning vantage points. At the foot of the hill is the waterspout and spa of the Font d En Segures, whose waters were used historically as medicinal and which gush out under a small stone chapel making a very agreeable setting. If we decide on a pleasant and peaceful stroll through Benasal, we must go to the defensive walls, where various tall towers with battlements are conserved, some of which are still used to this day as dwellings. In addition, we will enjoy a visit to its archaeological museum, the parish church dedicated to the Asunción de la Virgen and the house of the Sánchez de Cutanda family, built in 1722, with two severe baroque gates. The route now leads down a steep path to the bed of the Carbonera gully. in the direction of Catí is the ravine, Barranc dels Horts, which is at present owned by the Bancaixa foundation and its interior may be accessed with prior permission. If we get access we will be able to take a walk among Spanish oaks and Holm oaks, some of them hundreds of years old, with some magnificent examples of trees. There is no room for doubt that we find ourselves in a botanical gem of incalculable value and which experts classify as a remnant of ancient mixed woodland. Reaching the waterspout Font dels Horts, a small path starts out leading to a tree known popularly as Roure Pare, an impressive Holm oak that needs up to five people to embrace its huge trunk. Taking the CV-15 we start the climb up to Ares del Maestre. But before we start on the bends and stiffer climbs, it is worth making a stop at the Masía Montalbana. From that farmstead it is possible to access - better with a guide - Gasulla ravine, where the Remigia cave is situated and other overhangs that still have rock paintings. The prehistoric paintings of the Ares del Maestre were declared Albocàsser 40º 20' 63'' N 0º 0' 38'' W

24-25 Benasal 40º 22' 83'' N 0º 8' 56'' W a world heritage site by UNESCO, along with the rest of the rock art of the Levant [Regions of Murcia and Valencia, collectively known as the Levant].

metres. Its houses are stepped on the slopes under the rocky mass, forming a semicircle between the Mola del Castell and the Mola d Ares. Its snow covered image in winter is a wonder.

Opposite the church is the Town Hall, on which its Gothic arches stand out.

4 24-25 Benasal 40º 22' 83'' N 0º 8' 56'' W a world heritage site by UNESCO, along with the rest of the rock art of the Levant [Regions of Murcia and Valencia, collectively known as the Levant]. We resume our route to Ares del Maestre, which at first sight surprises for its particular location, since it is at 1,195 metres above sea level, at the foot of the Mola D Ares, a peak of 1,318 metres. Its houses are stepped on the slopes under the rocky mass, forming a semicircle between the Mola del Castell and the Mola d Ares. Its snow covered image in winter is a wonder. Rising above its houses the church of the Virgen de la Asunción literally stands out, 18th century, with a baroque stone façade. Opposite the church is the Town Hall, on which its Gothic arches stand out. At Ares we will be able to enjoy its cuisine, with the rich cheeses, cecina [cured meats, beef, horse etc], garbanzos con ajoaceite [chick peas with a garlic mayonnaise like aioli], partridge and olla de Ares [the Ares version of the typical hearty stew]. families are left, and the former schools have been turned into rural hostels. The church of Llàcua only opens its doors on a few very specific days like the day of the Catí romería [local pilgrimage] to Sant Pere de Castellfort. We leave the plains of Llàcua on the way to Catí, among Holm oaks and Spanish oaks, we pass the Masía Salvassoria farmhouse, where we discover the last remaining primordial woodlands of these mountains, where wild goats, wild boar, partridges and foxes roam free. It is a stretch which is only reached on foot, so in order to continue our route to Catí, part of the way will have to be made on the CV-15. For those who have continued on foot or by bike, the village of Catí opens up onto the landscape of the valley among forage, almond trees and olive trees. The peaceful village is known amongst other things for its beneficial waters, from the Avellà spring and for its spa. On a walk around we can look at mediaeval buildings, amongst which the Casa de la Vila and the Casa Miralles, are two that stand out, both in gothic style from the 15th century. We complete our visit to Catí by going to the parish church, from the 16th century. As well as this religious monument, within the boundary of Catí with pleasant rural surroundings, the Santa Ana and Sant Vicent Ferrer hermitages are found. Towards Catí, through the last primordial woodlands in these mountains We leave Ares to make our route through the most isolated places of the Alt Maestrat. As far as Catí we will let ourselves be led through the territories that make up cultural and natural landscapes regarded as the best conserved of the entire itinerary. A mountain track will lead us past waterspouts bound up with and an integral part of the rural way of life: Regatxol, de les Guitarres, de la Pinella and, among farmsteads and corrals like Mas de les Casetes, Magres, Planet or Blai, we reach Llàcua, with three streets and a harsh climate, at over a thousand metres above sea level. It once had as many as sixty worn out inhabitants, but at the present time only two

Route 2 From Culla to Benicarló Ares del Maestre 40º 27' 13'' N 0º 8' 26'' W Towards Sant Mateu finding historic art on the Via Agusta Having negotiated the mountain pass that separates the small

The urban layout of Tírig is of narrow streets and houses, with the traditional architecture of the area, all splendidly preserved.

The Valltorta rock paintings, declared a World Heritage site, are some of the most famous and prestigious.

5 Route 2 From Culla to Benicarló Ares del Maestre 40º 27' 13'' N 0º 8' 26'' W Towards Sant Mateu finding historic art on the Via Agusta Having negotiated the mountain pass that separates the small Catí valley from the Tírig valley, the village of the same name appears before us. The urban layout of Tírig is of narrow streets and houses, with the traditional architecture of the area, all splendidly preserved. On a walk around the town we will discover the parish church of Mare de Déu del Pilar and the hermitage of Santa Bàrbara, both from the 17th century. The Valltorta rock paintings, declared a World Heritage site, are some of the most famous and prestigious. Alongside the paintings, the Valltorta museum was built some years ago, where the items found in the caves are on display and a life-size reproduction of the Cova dels Cavalls [cave of the horses], in which scenes from daily life 7,000 years ago are clearly seen represented. In addition, guided tours from the museum to the caves are organized. Another pleasant walk is the one that leads from Tírig to Sant Mateu along rural roads; on it we find examples that are hundreds, and even some that are thousands, of years old. The final stretch of our route, towards Sant Mateu, makes use of the recently marked Via Agusta, a cultural itinerary which follows long stretches of what was the original course of this historic Roman road. Arriving at Sant Mateu, the historical capital of Maestrat, we find ourselves in a pretty town of mediaeval origin, where legend and history go hand in hand. The origin of the town is prior to its conquest by King Jaime I, although there is a legend that links its origin to the figure of the conqueror king. A walk around its urban centre will uncover for us the historical importance of this friendly town, with its public waterspouts, houses, well-cared-for religious buildings and its splendid architecture. In this way we will be able to relive the history of the Order of Montesa, of Pope Luna, the visits and miracles of San Vicente Ferrer and endless other historical events. Not to be missed are the main plaza or Plaza del Angel, with its porticoes, and the waterspout Font de l Angel of 1867, or the 15th century Town Hall, which now houses the municipal historical and ethnological museum, with a prehistoric collection classed as one of the best in the Region of Valencia. The gem of Sant Mateu is its Archpriest church, from between the 13th and 15th centuries, a splendid Gothic edifice with some remains of the Romanesque style and which was in its time declared a National Monument, being at present a Place of Cultural Interest. Within the municipal boundary we should not leave out the still venerated sanctuary of la Mare de Déu dels Angels, from the 16th century, with a hackberry tree declared a Tree Monument. From the sanctuary you can make out the 16th century fortified farmhouse Masía del Palomar, and the 14th century hermitage of Sant Cristòfol.

26-27 Sant Mateu 40º 27' 95'' N 0º 10' 9'' E En route to Benicarló, passing from olives to oranges in search of the sea A quiet rural road, that leaves aside the CV-10 and CV- 135, allows us to get

The urban centre of Cervera del Maestre exudes serenity and its traditional architecture conveys an aesthetic harmony that invites us to stroll around the setting in which the ruins of the 11th

We will also be surprised by the chapel of Sant Sebastià, which was originally built as a hospital and is one of the most unusual in the Region of Valencia.

6 26-27 Sant Mateu 40º 27' 95'' N 0º 10' 9'' E En route to Benicarló, passing from olives to oranges in search of the sea A quiet rural road, that leaves aside the CV-10 and CV- 135, allows us to get to Cervera del Maestre, along the river Sant Mateu among almond, olive and carob trees. The urban centre of Cervera del Maestre exudes serenity and its traditional architecture conveys an aesthetic harmony that invites us to stroll around the setting in which the ruins of the 11th century Cervera castle stand out, the Mas d Aragó a Roman agricultural village, founded by the Phoenician Greeks in 331BC, and the museum of l Oli housed in a perfectly preserved 16th century mill. We will also be surprised by the chapel of Sant Sebastià, which was originally built as a hospital and is one of the most unusual in the Region of Valencia. In addition we will be able to visit the parish church, dedicated to the Virgen de la Asunción, and the nearby Ermita del Carmen. A little further on we will discover the village of Càlig on the edge of the spectacular watercourse of the Cervera, surrounded by fields of olive and almond trees. Càlig is set on a hill over the sea and, despite houses being altered or demolished in recent years, it still retains its street layout unaltered and some formal gateways in ashlar work, above all in the centre of the town. The 17th century tower of Càlig, in ashlar work, has suffered some modifications over time and its use has been very diverse: prison, warehouse, and even town hall. Among the town s religious monuments of note: the parish church, put up in the 14th century although finally finished in During the Civil War the interior of the church was emptied of altarpieces and ornaments and, when the conflict was over new altarpieces were built, amongst which stands out the high altar dedicated to the town s patron saint, San Lorenzo. It is worth walking a kilometre out of town to visit the hermitage of the Mare de Déu del Socors, beside an agreeable setting that invites strolling around the area in summer. From olives we pass into lands where oranges are the crop par excellence. We reach Benicarló, the final point on our route, which is both a modern city and a seafaring town jealous of its traditions. Benicarló is a perfect place to enjoy the sun and the sea. Its coast is divided into three beach areas: Mar Xica, Morrongo and La Caracola or Gurugú, this last being little-visited so perfect for doing watersports. Benicarló harbour is very busy, and its beaches of fine sand are a claim of tourism. A walk around the town centre will take us past the 18th century church of Sant Bartolomé, the 16th century convent of San Francisco, and the chapel of Cristo del Mar, in the vicinity of the harbour. According to legend, the figure of Christ Benicarló 40º 25' 11'' N 0º 25' 42'' E

Route 2 From Culla to Benicarló Benicarló 40º 24' 73'' N 0º 25' 81'' E reached the Benicarló beaches in 1650 aboard a felucca [the traditional Mediterranean simple lateen-rigged fishing boat], which

Two kilometres away we can visit the hermitage of Sant Gregori, its date of construction unknown, but where the popular romería [local pilgrimage] is held with a procession every 9th May.

can be seen at the municipal historical and archaeological museum.

7 Route 2 From Culla to Benicarló Benicarló 40º 24' 73'' N 0º 25' 81'' E reached the Benicarló beaches in 1650 aboard a felucca [the traditional Mediterranean simple lateen-rigged fishing boat], which occurrence was officially classed as prodigious. Two kilometres away we can visit the hermitage of Sant Gregori, its date of construction unknown, but where the popular romería [local pilgrimage] is held with a procession every 9th May. In addition, outside the town, also of special interest is the Iberian era settlement of El Puig, one of the most important Iberian sites in the Region of Valencia and whose most valuable artefacts can be seen at the municipal historical and archaeological museum. Practical information Sant Mateu 40º 27' 92'' N 0º 11' 18'' E The festival of San Antonio is effusively celebrated by many places in the area, in various towns accompanied by the traditional torrà [charcoal roast]. On the coast, and despite belonging to the province of Castellón, many places celebrate the Fallas [most famous in the city of Valencia and its outlying area]. Moreover, many towns welcome romerías [local pilgrimages] and religious processions to their hermitages, some even processing round other municipalities like the famous one from Catí to Sant Pere de Castellfort passing through La Llàcua. Fiestas, Food and Crafts Livestock and game are the raw ingredients par excellence of the area s rich cuisine. The most outstanding dishes of the area are: tombet, a dish made with snails and rabbit, ternasco [suckling lamb, slaughtered unweaned at 30 to 40 days old], arròs amb fesols [rice and white beans], ollas [stews] and garbanzos con ajoaceite [chick peas with a dressing of garlic and oil, like aioli]. The almonds of the region are used to make turrón [nougat, a typical Christmas sweet], and almond pastries baked in the traditional ovens and at home. Then on the coast, the produce from the sea: different kinds of lobsters and sea bass give succulent fisherman s stews. All kinds of rice dishes may be tasted too. Recommended time of year The climate is not especially harsh at any time, so practically any time of year is good, trying to avoid the coldest days with storms in the part of the Alto Maestrazgo. An interesting time of year for visiting the area and enjoying the landscapes is from the end of January to mid-march when the almond and cherry trees blossom. During autumn the changing colours of the deciduous trees, and the snow covered hills in winter, invite an interesting escape. Public transport To get to the various places on the route, the train is a good option. Both regional and national trains serve

Recommendations For those intending to cycle the route, the condition of the roads must be taken into account, so a mountain bike is recommended.

8 28-29 Benicarló. Moreover, if you intend to take a bike to cycle the route, they are transported free of charge on the trains. Buses are another option as a means of transport, with a public service from Castellón de la Plana to Albocàsser, where the route starts. Recommendations For those intending to cycle the route, the condition of the roads must be taken into account, so a mountain bike is recommended. Along the way we do not come across too many waterspouts to quench thirst and refresh oneself, so we must replenish supplies whenever there is a chance. The most agreeable times of day to do the route are the early hours of the morning and at dusk as the temperature is agreeable and the light is especially good. If you are driving, it is recommended not to leave the roads and tracks and, if you wish to get to know the area in detail, then the best option is to leave the vehicle parked safely and walk around the area. Benicarló 40º 25' 09'' N 0º 25' 41'' E RECOMMENDED MAPS TO FOLLOW THE ROUTE CORRECTLY: National Geographic Institute Scale 1:25,000, sheet numbers: 570-III, 570-I, 570-II, 545-IV, 570-IV, 571-I, 571-II. Further information: Information on regional and local trains: Renfe TOURIST INFO OFFICES FOR THE ROUTE: Tourist Info Albocàsser Ctra. CV-15, La Pobla Tornesa-Vilafranca, km Albocàsser Tel Fax albocasser@touristinfo.net Tourist Info Benasal C/ La Mola, Benassal Tel Fax benassal@touristinfo.net Tourist Info Benassal Font d en Segures (Temporary) Av. Doctor Puigvert, s/n Benasal Tourist Info Benicarló Pl. de la Constitución, s/n Benicarló Tel./Fax benicarlo@touristinfo.net Tourist Info Benicarló - Morrongo (Temporary) Av. Marqués de Benicarló, s/n Benicarló Tourist Info Catí C/ Llarguer, Catí Tel Fax cati@touristinfo.net Tourist Info Sant Mateu C/ Historiador Betí, Sant Mateu Tel Fax santmateu@touristinfo.net

Routes and Excursions All I ask, the heaven above and the road below me. from The Vagabond by Robert L. Stevenson.

Routes and Excursions All I ask, the heaven above and the road below me. from The Vagabond by Robert L. Stevenson www.comunitatvalenciana.com www.comunitatvalenciana.com Escape to the magic of Valencia