Introduction. 1. King Shaka s Way

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1 1 Introduction The Battlefields Route in KwaZulu Natal hosts the largest concentration of battlefields in Southern Africa. The following poem captures the essence of this region and diversity it has to offer. Where brave soldiers fell and widows once wept A land where Shaka s mighty Zulu warriors once reigned supreme Until they clashed swords with soldiers of the Queen. Legends they were, some stood out from the rest Churchill, Gandhi and Dingaan are the ones we know best Come, relive the past and if you want to explore Rest assured it s not just the battle sites, blood and gore. On horseback or foot, traverse scenic, historic mountains Shake off your worries at game reserves and warm mineral fountains Visit living museums and all sorts of craft making ventures. In luxury lodges or quaint country places\at log fires, farm stalls and cozy pubs you ll meet many new faces Amidst the now tranquil hills where Zulu, Boer and Brit once fought The Battlefields Route is nearer than you thought ( The Battlefields Route 2003/04) 1. King Shaka s Way 2. Remembrance Route This route is centered mainly around the life and times of the legendary Zulu king, Shaka. This includes the towns of KwaDukuza (Stanger); Eshowe, Melmoth, Ulundi, King Cetshwayo s rand Babanago. Follows the R33 from Greytown to the Itala Game Reserve (near Louwsburg). It focuses on the Anglo Zulu War of 1879 and includes the famous battlefields of Isandlwana, Rorke s Drift, Fugitive s Drift and Ulundi. Apart from the rich Zulu Culture, the area also offers insight in German and Afrikaner heritage. 3. Rifleman s Road Remember Majuba (where the British forces where given a humiliating blow during the first Anglo Boer War) was the rallying call for the British to engage in a second war with the Boers. The route follows the initial Boer successes, taking Newcastle without a shot and forcing the British troops further south resulting besieging Ladysmith. 4. Warrior s Trek Relate the conflict between the Voortrekker and Dingane, Zulu King at the time. The memorial to Louis Napoleon Prince Imperial of France, who was killed in combat, can also be visited in this region. 5. Siege Salute Anglo Boer War and several Voortrekker Zulu Skirmishes sites including Ladysmith, Colenso, Escourt and Winterton and Dundee. The battle of Spioenkop is one of the best known battles in South Africa and three men Gandhi, Churchill and Louis Botha were present that day. They all become key players in world affairs. The N3 and N11 are the main access routes. 6. Red Soldier s March Dundee and the battle of Talana are the most famous attraction in the area.

2 2 Towns along the N11 Population: Altitude: 1673m / Battlefields Region CHARLESTOWN 5489ft Rainfall: On route N11, approximately 32km south from Volksrust and 52km north of Newcastle. Origin A wagon transport system was operating between the goldfields and Durban at the time of the discovery of gold in The British, aspiring to build a railway line from Durban to replace the slow and unreliable transport, sought the approval of President Paul Kruger to extend it across the Transvaal (ZAR) to Johannesburg. However, Kruger s first priority was to complete his railway line from Pretoria to Lourenzo Marques (today s Maputo in Mozambique) to ensure access for the Boer Republics to a harbour free from British rule. It was completed in In 1889, the town was established as a railway terminus for the Natal railway line that reached the border between Transvaal and Natal in The rail terminus initially served as customs and immigration post for railway passengers and freight. People had to change their mode of transport here, from the train (coming from Durban) to coaches and ox-wagons to Johannesburg. The railway line finally reached Johannesburg in 1895 through Laing s Nek. The once busy trading village now only serves as a as a small trading centre between Newcastle and Volksrust. Name Named for Sir Charles Mitchell, governor of Natal. Claims to Fame The most important battles of the First Anglo Boer war between the British and Transvaal army took place in this area during Laing's Nek (28 January 1881) - Ingogo Heights also known as Schuinshoogte (8 February 1881) - Majuba (26 February 1881)

3 3 NEWCASTLE Population: Altitude: 1191m / 3907ft Rainfall: more than 900 mm p.a. Battlefields Region On route N11, approximately 51km south from Volksrust and 79km north of Ladysmith. On route R34, approximately 50km east of Memel There are two large black townships east of Newcastle - Madadeni and osizweni. Origin Established in Used as a favourite stopover for wagons /travelers between Port Natal (Durban) and the Zuid Afrikaansche Republiek (ZAR). It was the fourth town to be founded in Natal (after Durban, Weenen and Pietermaritzburg). In 1881, coal was discovered that set the platform for the town s industrial development (see Mining and Industry, history below). In 1890, the railway from Durban to Johannesburg reached the town. Twenty years later, the branch line to Utrecht was completed. Today, it is the largest town in Northern KwaZulu-Natal. Name Originally known as Post Halt Two as it was located on the main railway line from Durban to Johannesburg (ZAR). Also briefly named as Viljoensdorp during the Boer Occupation in It was renamed in honour for the Duke of Newcastle, British Colonial Secretary at the time, after the town was occupied by the British in May, It shares its name with many other cities around the world. Claims to Fame Featured prominently in the First Anglo-Boer War ( ) Second Anglo-Boer War ( ) Dome of the Hindu Temple In February 1881, Sir George Pomeroy Colley and his men marched north from Newcastle They were defeated by the Boers at Majuba and Colley was among those who lost their lives. A few weeks after the start of the war, the Boers occupied Newcastle and renamed it Viljoensdorp. The town served as headquarters, first for the Boers who occupied it soon after the outbreak of the war, and then by the British who reoccupied it in Located in Kirkland Road It is said to be the largest in the southern hemisphere.

4 4 NEWCASTLE continue Battlefields Region Agriculture Cattle and sheep ranching. Tributaries of the Buffalo River are filled with trout. Mining and industries The town is the major commercial and industrial centre of northern KwaZulu- Natal and boasts a wide range of coal and steel related, as well as other industries: Portland Cement Chrome Industrial Mittal Steel (previously, ISCOR) Carbochem Rubber Plants Cheese factories Beer Brewing Factories Industrial History The first factory was a wool-washing plant that was opened in Coal was already discovered in the early 1880s. In 1920, South Africa's first commercial iron was produced in Newcastle. On the north-eastern side of the town, the blast furnaces of Mittal Steel are clearly visible when approaching Newcastle. Historical Sites and Monuments The Armoury Located in Scott Street. Built by the Newcastle Mounted Rifles in the 1870s Features an unusual architectural design that includes a gable. Currently used by the MOTHS

5 5 Anglo-Boer War I battlefields in the region Laing s Nek (January 28,1981) The site is located about 25km north of Newcastle (just of the N11). General Colley and about a 1000 men, set out on that day, in an attempt to pass the Boer forces that was positioned at Laing s Nek. The Boers, under the leadership of General Piet Joubert, decided to take action before the British reinforcements arrived from Durban. Colley s men were attacked from the rear and suffered heavy losses, leaving 65 dead. The Boers only lost eight men. Ingogo Heights/Skuinshoogte ('sloping hill') - Located about 16km northwest of Newcastle - Follows the turn-off on to a gravel road from the R34 to the battlefield. - This battle took place about one week before Majuba, and again it did not have a positive outcome for the British. Majuba (March 23, 1881) This was the decisive battle of the Anglo-Boer, with the Transvaal regaining its independence. (see Module 3, Historical Overview (2), Anglo Boer War I The town hall Fort Amiel Fort Terror Located in Scott Street. Built in 1897, to commemorate Queen Victoria's diamond jubilee. It was built from sandstone, with stained-glass windows and clock tower, It is still in used as a concert venue and the Tourism Information offices are located in the front. Located on the R34 to Memel, just at the outskirts of the town. It was built by Major CF Amiel, in 1878, as part of a "series of British forts in these parts, as a precautionary against probable Zulu attacks. Later, it also served as transit camp and hospital during the Anglo-Boer War. There are also documents and exhibits of the life of well known author, Rider Haggard. Located 5 km from Newcastle on the Ladysmith road at the Blue Ridge Guest Farm. Originally used as a signaling post. The remains are recently proclaimed as a cultural history museum.

6 6 Buller s Headquarters Hilldrop House Carnegie Art Gallery St Dominic's Academy for Girls Located in 43 Ayliff Street. A Victorian styled house, built in Used as headquarters by both the Boers and General Sir Redvers Buller during the Anglo-Boer War. On 23 March 1881 the peace treaty to bring the Transvaal's first war against Britain to an end was signed here as confirmation for the previously signed document at O'Neil's Cottage on the slopes of Majuba. Sir Rider Haggard, a famous African adventure story writer once lived in the house. His novel Jess was based on his experiences during the period he stayed in Hilldrop House. He is best known for his novel King Solomon s Mines. Built in 1915 on the site of the town's old gallows.(place where the death penalty was executed). Specializes in landscapes by South African artists A national monument Founded in 1896, as a Catholic Convent. The pavilion, a 30-m wooden structure was built in 1916 and was used as a skating rink. A national monument. Attractions and Activities Drakensberg Range (more than 2000m above sea level) Chelmsford Nature Reserve and Ntshingwayo Dam 1 000ha Koningsberg ('king's mountain') Kranskop Located on the Ngagane River about 25km north of Newcastle. It is the access gate/road to three minor passes over the Drakensberg into the Free State - Botha's, Normandien and Muller's take the turn off from the N11 near Newcastle Originally, named after Lord Chelmsford, the commander of the British forces in the Anglo Zulu War of The Reserve was renamed after the Zulu Commander who defeated the British at Isandlwana on the 22 February It claims the largest oribi (a graceful slender-legged, longnecked small antelope found in grassland) population in the world. Home to several common species of antelope as well as rhino Varied bird life includes Egyptian and spur-winged goose, spoonbill, yellow-billed duck, bald ibis. Offers angling( known for carp and bass), sailing, powerboating, waterskiing activities and various hiking trials

7 7 NEWCASTLE continue Ncandu Falls Hiking Trials Holkrans Mountain Ndanyaan Horse Trial Township Tours Amajuba Birding Meander Battlefields Region Located on the Ncandu River about 16 km west of Newcastle on the road to Muller's Pass. Offers various hiking trials through the beautiful scenery of the Drakensberg Range One of several Bike trials in the region Information can be obtained at the Tourism Information Centre, located at the Town Hall Offers one or two day horse trials all along the banks of the Ncandu River Offers various guided township tours that shows traditional urban Africa life Newcastle is the center of this route. Attractions and Activities continue Annually Events / Festivals Vodacom Winter Festival - Largest Festival in KwaZulu Natal - Lasts 4 days - Attracks about people annually African Swimming Challenge Classic Horse Derby

8 8 FORT MISTAKE Population: Altitude: Rainfall: Battlefields Region On route N11 approximately 40km south from Newcastle and 60km north of Ladysmith Situated on a hill just south of Khupe's pass through the Biggarsberg. Origin Originated as one of several British built strongholds in the time between the armistice and formal peace treaty after the battle of Majuba. The battle of Majuba effectively ended the Transvaal Republic's first war against Britain ( ). Name Originally called Fort One Tree Hill. One Tree Hill appeared on maps in the 20th century, but eventually disappeared. The name Mistake was given by the residents who were confused by what they thought was as another example of the bumbling ways of the British Army. Historical sites and monuments Fort Mistake Erected in 1881 Resembles an Indian Fort. It is one of a series of British signaling posts erected in the area and played an important role in the Anglo-Boer War.

9 9 LADYSMITH Population: Altitude: 1048m/3438ft Rainfall: Battlefields Region On route N11 approximately 104km south of Newcastle and 20km east of the N3 between Harrismith and Estcourt and about 25 km from Van Reenen's Pass, at the start of the N3 toll road to Durban, the old road (R103) swings away east to Ladysmith Situated on the banks of the Klip ('stone') River, a tributary of the Thukela. Known as the Emnambithi-Ladysmith Local Municipality (The name Emnambithi is derived from mnambitheka -meaning tasty, a name bestowed by King Shaka after tasting the sweet water of the Klip River. Origin Originated from the late 1830s when a number of Voortrekker parties who crossed the Drakensberg into Natal, settled in the well-watered valley of the Klip River. The Republic of Klip River These settlers founded the Republic of Klip River after the fall of the Voortrekker republic in This was one of the many short-lived pocket republics established by the Voortrekkers in the 19th century. Klip River lasted only a few months before Britain extended its authority over all of Natal. A new settlement was proclaimed in December Many transport riders from Port Natal (Durban) passed the settlement on route to the Transvaal and Free State and the village was proclaimed on 20 June In 1886 the railway from Durban to the goldfields of the Witwatersrand reached Ladysmith. In 1892, the line to the Free State via Van Reenen's Pass was completed and reached Johannesburg in The town celebrated its one hundred and fiftieth anniversary of its founding year in Name First called Windsor, for George Windsor, a local trader Renamed to Ladysmith in honour of Juana Maria de los Dolores de Leon, Spanish-born wife of Sir Harry Smith, governor of the Cape after the proclamation of the village.

10 10 Claims to fame Siege of Ladysmith One of the most important events in the history of the town was the 118-day siege by Boer forces during the Anglo-Boer War that made world headlines. The siege ended on 28 February 1900 when a relief column under General Buller entered the town. (see Module 3, Historical overview ). It is said that on Christmas Day (during the Siege), the Boers fired a shell containing a Christmas pudding into the town! Ladysmith Black Mambazo - The black axe of Ladysmith An internationally acclaimed music group who have sold more records in South Africa than the Beatles and Michael Jackson. Joseph Shabalala, the leader of the group, had humble beginnings as a simple herd-boy in the vicinity of Ladysmith in Twenty years later, he founded the group and their first concert was held in Soweto where they became an instant hit. Their international fame took of when Paul Simon discovered them on a visit to Johannesburg and the album Graceland that followed put them in the international limelight. Joseph nicknamed Paul Simon Vulindlela he who has opened the gate. Mahatma Gandhi It was largely Gandhi s doing that an Indian Army Corps of men was raised for ambulance service during the war. He acted as a stretcher-bearer with Buller s relief column during the relief of Ladysmith. A statue was erected in his honour in the Lord Vishnu temple gardens. It was imported from Bombay and unveiled in October The Soofi (Sufi) Mosque Located on the banks of the Klip River and reputedly one of the most beautiful in the country. Jamaloodeen was the master builder and is said to have designed the building in his head. Apparently, he sketched the plans for the day on a smoothed area of sand and no other plans existed. The style incorporates traditional Muslim designs and the ornamental plaster work displays exceptional craftsmanship. The mosque was built sometime between 1895 and 1910 but expanded in the 1960s. Sufism: Mystical movement within Islam that seeks to find divine love and knowledge through direct personal experience of God. It consists of a variety of mystical paths that are designed to ascertain the nature of mankind and God and to facilitate the experience of divine love and wisdom in the world (Britannica Concise Encyclopedia).

11 11. Agriculture Well-watered area. Mixed farming: cattle and sheep ranching, dairy, horse breeding, pork, poultry, maize, sorghum, Soyabeans, fruit and vegetables. Mining and industries Boasts a variety of industries and is the commercial hub of the surrounding communities. Historical sites and monuments All Saints Anglican Church Ladysmith Siege Museum Long Tom Replica Town Hall Castor and Pollux Cannons Built in 1902 of flagstones quarried in the area. Lists the names of more than British soldiers who died during the siege of the town by the Boers in the Anglo-Boer War. A shell from a Boer 'Long Tom' field gun, which destroyed the porch of the church, has been grouted into the repaired wall. Located next to the Town Hall. It was used as a rations post for civilians. A three-dimensional model depicting Ladysmith at the time of the siege and documents, uniforms, firearms and artifacts from this period are also on display. This is a replica of one of the four cannons that were imported from France and used by the Boer forces during the Anglo-Boer War. Host it own museum and info centre. Designed by H.S. Walker. Built in Served as hospital during the siege. The clock tower partially destroyed by a direct hit from one of the Long Tom guns. Located in front of the town hall building. Used by the besieged British. The cannons were able to cause significant damage to one of the Boers Long Tom guns. Memorials close to the Town Hall Commemorates the brave defenders and events during the siege: o The battles of Nicholson's Nek. o Caesar's Camp o Observation Hill.

12 12 LADYSMITH continue Battlefields Region Historical sites and monuments Famous battlefield in the area (See Module 3, Historical Overview (2)- Anglo-Boer War 1 Spioenkop Vaalkrans Colenso The Loop Thukela Heights Surprise Hill Elandslaagte Cemetery Hill Two Gardens of Remembrance Colonel Dick Cunyngham VC Cairn Cannon The Tollhouse Old Fort Communal crypt of Manchester Fort Most of the British soldiers were buried here. Many other victims of the siege were interred in the local cemetery. Still visited by the descendants from Britain. Marks the spot where the commander of the Second Battalion of the Gordon Highlanders died during the Anglo- Boer War after he was hit by a stray bullet. Collected a fee on all wagons, carts and carriages entering the town. Ceased operating when the bridge over the Klip River was commissioned in Built in 1879 to protect the town against a possible Zulu attacks. The loophole wall of the old fort is incorporated into the police station. A theatre of the Anglo-Boer War. The remains of 310 Boers were laid to rest here. Lists the names of 781 Boers who died in battles.

13 13 LADYSMITH continue Battlefields Region Historical sites and monuments Keerweder House General Sir George White's headquarters Umbulwane Mountain Fine example of Victorian architecture. Was presented to the Reverend Schoon when he retired after many years' service as Dutch Reformed minister. Located at 16 Poort Road until 22 December 1899, when the building was hit by a Long Tom shell. The staff of General White lived in tents pitched around the building. Was once inhabited by San people. Played an important part in the Anglo-Boer War. A series of self-guided hiking trails traverse the historical mountain of Umbulwane. The Royal Hotel Received a number of rather distinguished guests during the war: - Melton Prior, the war artist who sketched scenes for the Illustrated London News. - Dr Leander Starr Jameson, leader of the Jameson Raid into the Transvaal in During the siege Dr Stark, the town's medical officer, was fatally wounded by a Long Tom shell while talking to a journalist in the doorway of the hotel. - The base of the shell has been grouted into the pavement. Attractions and Activities Ladysmith/Emnambithi Cultural Centre: 25 Keate Street Exhibits a lively display on the history of the wellknown a cappella group Ladysmith Black Mambazo. Offers a Sunday Township Concerts. Experience the rich, vibrant atmosphere of a township through dance, narration and choir performances by local artists. Black Rock Lies on the banks of the Klip River. An ideal nature spot for picnics and barbecues. Malendeni Bird Sanctuary Located on the banks of a lake. Home to some 236 species of birds.

14 14 DANSKRAAL Population: Altitude: Rainfall: On route N11, approximately 5km north of Ladysmith Battlefields Region Origin The Voortrekker commando of Andries Pretorius camped on a farm nearby with the same name, around 7 December They were on their way to retaliate the murder of Piet Retief and his men by the hand of King Dingane. Historians believe, that this was the actual site where the Vow was made for the first time. The Voortrekkers took an oath, that if God granted them the victory over the Zulu, they and their descendants, would always observe the day as a Sabbath and built a church in honour of His name. Name It is believed, that the name Danskraal ( kraal of dancing') was derived from the ceremonial dances offered by the Zulu chief, Nodotta, to entertain the commando.

15 15 Towns along the R68 DANNHAUSER Population: Altitude: 1347m / 4419ft Rainfall: Battlefields Region (On route N11 / R621 approximately 40km south from Newcastle and 25km north west of Dundee.) Situated next to the railway line between Durban and Gauteng. Origin Laid out on the farm Palmietfontein in The town was proclaimed in Name Two possible explanations Named after the former owner of the farm in the 1870s. Otherwise, in honour of Thomas Dannhauser, a member of the Voortrekker Volksraad (magistrate) of Weenen. Mining and industries Economic activities used to rely on the Durnacol Coal Mine but it was abandoned in the late 1900 s. Agriculture Cattle and sheep

16 16 Towns along the N1 VAN REENEN S PASS Altitude: Population Battlefields Region (On route N3 from Gauteng approximately 30km south east from Harrismith and the N5 from the Free State down the Drakensberg escarpment to the KwaZulu- Natal midlands and Durban) The road ascends about 580 m from the bottom of the pass to the village of Van Reenen at the summit. Origin One of the busiest, important roads and railway routes in the country. In the middle of the 19th century, as trade increased between the Free State and Natal, an easier road across the escarpment was required. For centuries, herds of antelope used a pass to move between the Free State to the warmer weather in Natal and then returned to the Free State in the summer when grazing was readily available after the rains. Frans van Reenen, a farmer at the foot of the pass, was familiar with this ancient path, as he had used it many times to cross the mountains with his cattle to sell them in the Free State, and he convinced the engineers that it would be the most suitable road. The pass was completed in In 1891, the railway followed. Recently used as an important refreshment and fuel stop for travellers. Name Named after Frans Van Reenen who suggested the route to the engineers. Claims to Fame Llandaff Oratory The little Catholic Church is one of the smallest in the world, privately owned and is dedicated to a brave man. Llandaff Mathew lost his life when trying to save the lives of other miners in the Burnsfield Colliery in He was only 28 years. When the Roman Catholic Church in Ladysmith refused to have a plaque placed there in memory of his son, his father then built the church. It only has eight seats, allegedly the number of people that was saved by Llandaff.

17 17 Resources and further reading Berg, Bush, Battlefields in the Zulu Kingdom. Official Tourism Guide of the Amajuba, uthukela and Umzinyathi District Municipalities th Edition. Britannica Concise Encyclopedia, published by Encyclopædia Britannica, Inc. Cloete, PG. The Anglo-Boer War A chronology. JP van der Walt. Pretoria Derwent, S. KwaZulu-Natal Heritage Sites : A Guide to some great places. David Philip Publishers Erasmus, BPJ. On route in South Africa. Jonathan Ball Publishers Game Parks and Nature Reserve of Southern Africa: Readers Digest, 1991 Game Parks and Nature Reserve of Southern Africa: Readers Digest, 1997 Historical Newcastle South Africa booklet Moore, N. KZN TOURISM NEWSLETTER NO 54 - JULY Bulletin no.54. ( Raper, PE. Dictionary of Southern Africa Place Names. Jonathan Ball Publishers Johannesburg, Second Edition The Zulu Kingdom : Travel & Tourism Guide 2003/2004. Tourism KwaZulu Natal Van Dyk, P. Explore Kwazulu-Natal. March 2004 Visit and Explore South Africa CD version 2.3 KwaZulu-Natal Tourist Map 2006/2007. Brabys. Brochures The Battlefields Route : Explore the Battlefiedls. caltex The Battlefields Route : KwaZulu Natal. 2003/2004 Websites

18 18 Visits and photography Exploration-research trip. Makiti Guides & Tours (Pty) Ltd. 2005/2007 Oral resources Graham Acheson. Battlefields guide. Compiled by Maria Louise Kruger

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