City Of Air, Light And Space

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Dominick Dalton
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1 VIEW FROM THE TOP City Of Air, Light And Space Crown Of THE CONTINENT Art Outside OF THE BOX A Flamboyant ANACHRONISM

2 CITY OF AIR, LIGHT AND SPACE Rotterdam is refreshing, it s contemporary architecture takes creativity to the next level, yet maintains its old world charm in some quarters. A must visit city of the Netherlands. Words: Aruna Rathod

t s about an hour and a half from Amsterdam to the port city of Rotterdam by train.

30 am, I observed that most of the commuters were office goers and some travellers leaving for the airport.

As I disembarked at Rotterdam station, I proceeded to collect my map at the tourist centre on the ground level itself.

3 t s about an hour and a half from Amsterdam to the port city of Rotterdam by train. The city of Rotterdam is quite new compared to Amsterdam, since it was bombed in the World War II and rebuilt in most parts. Boarding the dark blue and bright yellow train at about 8.30 am, I observed that most of the commuters were office goers and some travellers leaving for the airport. Most of them got off at the station Schiphol Airport, the main international airport of the Netherlands, Rotterdam is about half an hour away from this station. As I disembarked at Rotterdam station, I proceeded to collect my map at the tourist centre on the ground level itself. I was told the subway would be the best way to reach my hotel called the Nhow Hotel. Without stepping out of the station, I ventured below the ground level of the station and found my train, all new, clean and colourful. I disembarked at Wilhelminaplein which was just three stations from the main station. I walked out in the day light, and it was a cold grey day. Walking to the Nhow Hotel, I felt like a dwarf next to the tall buildings in the office quarter. Nhow hotel towers into the sky, a grey contemporary structure, it resembles a model made out of Lego Blocks, visible from any part of Rotterdam, easy to spot. After checking into my contemporary corner room with huge windows that overlooked the Maas river, I decided to indulge in the view later. Excited I stepped out to explore the city of Rotterdam, appropriately called the city of air, light and space. During World War II, Rotterdam s city centre and more than one-third of the port s facilities were destroyed by the Germans. pier that thousands of emigrants left for North America. The hotel was the former head office of the Holland America Line and is now converted into a classic hotel, a nostalgic reminder of the past. Unlike the city of Amsterdam that is full of canals and boats, Rotterdam has plenty of rivers everywhere. Each land mass is bordered with a river, so it s inevitable that one uses water transport in Rotterdam, besides bicycles, the tram, buses and subway. Black and yellow water taxis, that run privately, are popular with the rich and have their own piers; while the more affordable way to travel over water for the others is The Waterbus which is well-connected to each part of the city and the suburbs. I decide to explore the old part of the city and I had to cross the modern Erasmus Bridge (little knowing that it s an opening bridge) to get there. As I walked for about 100 metres, I heard a ringing bell and wondered. Suddenly, all the vehicles ground to a halt and I watched in wonder as the road-bridge slowly rose up, hoisting itself up, to allow a mediumsized ship to pass by. The entire process took about 20 minutes. Then the road slowly went down and it was life as usual. After I crossed the bridge, a few metres away I came to the old town with residences and shopping quarters. It is a good idea to walk to the city hall (1918), the main post office (1923), and the stock exchange were among the few public buildings that escaped destruction. The 15th-century Grote Kerk (Great Church), or St. Laurenskerk (St. Lawrence s Church), was burnt in 1940 but was later restored. THE MAJESTIC MARKTHAL THE MARKET HALL Juriaan and me, walked upto the most modern introduction in the city called the Markthal. It s a huge, amazing building with a semi-circular shape, with an interesting concept. While the food court, restaurants, fresh food stalls are housed on the ground level, there are apartments over this part in an interesting horseshoe shape. There is a four level underground car park below. I look up with awe at the art work, bright flowers, fruits and leaves sprawled in wild abandon across the curved ceiling. Done by Artists Arno Coenen and Iris Roskam, it is called the Horn of Plenty absolutely unusual art! I couldn t help notice the windows of the apartments housed above and Juriaan mentioned to me that it is a premium housing complex. To add local flavour it seems there is an exhibition on the premises, of archaeological finds from medieval Rotterdam found while the building was being constructed. I browsed and found the concept fascinating. A food market with local and international ingredients, stalls where you can eat on the go, fine dine restaurants and what a choice to shop for ingredients right from Indonesian sambols, Japanese Sushi, Chinese, Korean noodles to Mediterranean specialities, fresh and dried mushrooms, olives, a variety of cheese, fresh and dried fish, smoked meats and fresh cuts. For those who want EXPLORING ROTTERDAM The best way to explore the city is to buy the Rotterdam Welcome Card which allows for free travel on the bus, tram and metro and gives details on what to see in the city. My first walk in the city was in the new district which housed the port a few years ago and now has some swanky new buildings. At the end of the road, we encountered the iconic New York Hotel. My guide, Juriaan, a young student at the University who helps tourists during his free time, told me that it was from this 74 JUNE 2017 CEO INDIA 75

to indulge, choose from Greek, Italian to simple fish and chips or French fries. A must have are the local stroopwafels - a waffle made from two thin layers of baked dough with a caramel-like syrup.

and served in a square paper plate. THE CUBE HOUSES Opposite the MarketHalle are the famous Cube Houses designed by Architect Piet Blom as part of the development of the waterfront area.

Next to the cube houses, is a towering building shaped like a pencil. Rotterdam is indeed full of surprises.

the city and it s scale. As we left the city, we were told about the Euromast, an observation tower, great to have a birds eye view of the city. We reached the port and it was just magnificent.

4 to indulge, choose from Greek, Italian to simple fish and chips or French fries. A must have are the local stroopwafels - a waffle made from two thin layers of baked dough with a caramel-like syrup. I decide to indulge in a Dutch cheese sandwich and a dessert of poffertjes small, fluffy pancakes that are light an spongy sprinkled with sugar powder prepared by a charming young lady on the spot and served in a square paper plate. THE CUBE HOUSES Opposite the MarketHalle are the famous Cube Houses designed by Architect Piet Blom as part of the development of the waterfront area. The cube houses are tipped to one side, three sides facing the ground, three facing the sky, an interesting concept by the architect to design a village within a city. Next to the cube houses, is a towering building shaped like a pencil. Rotterdam is indeed full of surprises. a 75 minute ride in the river that enables tourists to experience the city from the water and see the magnitude of the Port of Rotterdam, a commentary in English is extremely helpful to understand the city and it s scale. As we left the city, we were told about the Euromast, an observation tower, great to have a birds eye view of the city. We reached the port and it was just magnificent. Ships, ships and more ships on all sides - the port operations were of a huge magnitude and we saw ships being loaded with cargo. After about half an hour, we came close to a majestic ship called the SS Rotterdam, out of service and now converted into a Fivestar hotel. As the sun set, we reached the end of our boat tour. As I walked back to Nhow Hotel, Rotterdam looked beautiful in the pink hues of the setting sun. Once in my room, I enjoyed the views from the 22nd floor of twinkling lights, the sky turning a dark blue, the ships, the river and the modern city. BREAKFST AT NHOW Next morning, after the sumptuous breakfast at the hotel, I decided to explore a bit of the old part of the city. I decided to TRAM TO SPIDO BOAT HARBOUR Post the quick sandwich lunch it s was time for a boat cruise of the Port of Rotterdam. After taking a tram to the Erasmus bridge again, I walked to the spot where Spido is housed, I waited for the huge boat with a deck. Spido is a great attraction for tourists as they have visit the Fenix Food Factory, which was a mini-version of the Markthal. Fenix food factory was set up in an old warehouse and now it s popular on weekends when locals like to go here for a brunch or beer. The food market sells fresh and good food from entrepreneurs from Rotterdam, so a local bakery, cheese, brewery or just a beer. It was a more rustic yet charming version and a great place to just chill, as I saw a few people just meeting up for breakfast and a coffee. As I walked back on a small bridge, I was alert. There was a red light alert and I wondered why, right enough since this was a small bridge I checked for joints in the road and walked back to the flat level. Right enough I was on yet opening bridge, that opened to allow a small boat to pass by. Feeling adventurous and loving the feel of the city, I decided to go a bit far into the Maas River to visit Kinderdijk, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A helpful lady advised me: The water taxi is the fastest way to reach Kinderdijk... It was, for sure, but only if you can afford it. I resorted to the Waterbus number 20, for which I had to cross the Erasmus bridge again and reach the same spot where I boarded the Spido boat on the CEO INDIA 77

previous day. I boarded the bus at 12 noon sharp. A few tourists, a couple from Hong Kong and others from The Netherlands itself, some locals with their bicycles and off we went.

I tried to spot the windmills. I couldn t see any of them. I crossed the road and entered a souvenir store that had a pleasant lady at the counter.

I couldn t help but notice some amazing souvenirs the famous clogs, miniature windmills, ceramic ware and tulips carved beautifully from wood.

5 previous day. I boarded the bus at 12 noon sharp. A few tourists, a couple from Hong Kong and others from The Netherlands itself, some locals with their bicycles and off we went. The boat takes you to Kinderdijk, but I had to change to a small boat at Ridderkerk, which was a few steps away. Within five to seven minutes we reached famous windmills. I tried to spot the windmills. I couldn t see any of them. I crossed the road and entered a souvenir store that had a pleasant lady at the counter. When I asked, she indicated that the windmills were on the right, a short walk away. I couldn t help but notice some amazing souvenirs the famous clogs, miniature windmills, ceramic ware and tulips carved beautifully from wood. A SILENT TESTIMONY TO TAMING NATURE I began walking towards the Windmills and in about five minutes, I spotted them against the horizon, many of them. I stopped in front of a building called J U Smitgemaal, a pumping station with giant turbines. This set up took over what the windmills used to do centuries ago. A small ticket window sells tickets for a tour of the windmills, you can do it on foot by walking close to the windmills, or by a boat tour for about half an hour. You can also attend a short documentary on the history of the windmills. You could also buy a ticket for 13 Euros, this includes a snack and soup and entry to the windmills. The entire excursion could take from two to three hours (excluding travel time) I decided to have a look at the documentary of the windmills. The auditorium is across the canal, and there were three gentlemen who are volunteers for the visitor centre that looks after the site. An in-house store sells interesting souvenirs and also has a coffee vending machine. Since I am the only English speaking tourist, I am ushered into a very unusual room that is one of the old pumping stations and now converted into a centre for information. The auditorium has two big screens opposite each other and four small screens. Stools are placed for seating groups, but I am the only one! The gentleman tells me to sit facing the small screens, as the presentation is on all six screens, and I am more than curious. The show begins with the small four screens with four characters who are arguing about the name Kinderdijk... extremely well presented with humour and anecdotes, the show goes on to the big screens and at the end of it I am educated and have huge respect for the hardworking Dutch who managed to tame water. After picking up a couple souvenirs, colourful clogs and tulips, I began my tour of the windmills. Two paths have been made, one for walking and one for cycling and of course, for those who choose the canal tour the boat is a good bet. The windmills, 19 in all, are huge built at a distance from each other and stand silently. Their blades (also called sails) stand out against the blue sky. The mills were built between 1500 and 1740 and they are so well-preserved that in 1997, the windmills were put on the UNESCO World Heritage List. During early times, if the water was not kept under control, there would be flooding hence the windmills were life savers, and have helped mankind to survive. Not many of us know that a little over half of the Netherlands is reclaimed land which lies under sea level, making it vulnerable to flooding. Though many windmills across the Netherlands withered away, Kinderdijk is one of places where they have been preserved. Happy with my visit, my souvenirs tucked away in my bag, the Dutch, the windmills with their history and efficiency left me fascinated. OF ALL THINGS DUTCH Suitably tired, I decided to have a light dinner. The menu card helped as it had an explanation in English and I zeroed in on a Dutch speciality called Dutch bitterballen (potato and beef croquettes with crispy crust and served with a bowl of spicy mustard) at the bar called On the Rocks of the Mainport Hotel. A great location and ambience, you can watch the busy street outside through the full length glass and relax with a drink. The bitterballen were extremely filling and delicious and it was a good way to end my Dutch trip. The next morning, I took a taxi to the Central Station, seeing it for the first time from the outside. An impressive structure, an ultramodern building with an eye-catching canopy shaped liked a wing, it is an example of the city s bold ambitions for urban development and renewal. The main hall is made of glass and wood. A spectacular entrance to the city and a magnificent exit, in my case, from the city! 78 JUNE 2017 CEO INDIA 79

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