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1 Hiroshima We traveled from Matsuyama to Hiroshima by tram, train, and hydrofoil. The hour-long passage through narrow straits between small islands of the Japan s Seto Inland Sea was very scenic and would have been spectacular had it not been for the thin lowhanging haze that has been more or less ubiquitous in Japan, whether due to air pollution or mist we can t tell. Hiroshima, with a population of 1.2 million, is flat and great for walking, so after checking into our hotel, we set out on foot in the direction of the city s famous Peace Park. Hiroshima is also famous, at least well-known, for its cuisine, and we were keen to try the distinctive local version of okonomiyaki, the dish we first discovered in Osaka earlier in the trip. Japanese sixth-graders traditionally take a traveling field trip at about this time of year, and we saw large groups of them around town; most kids were neatly dressed in the uniform of their school: girls in short skirts, boys in short pants. We had searched out a recommended restaurant known for its okonomiyaki. The upstairs space was divided into several small dining areas, each with a room-size griddle surrounded by a dozen or so low stools. We found free stools and watched fascinated as the cook rapidly and methodically simultaneously prepared ten identical servings. First, she made a small crepe, then piled on successive layers of chopped cabbage, bean sprouts, bacon-like meat, and noodles, then sprinkled on various spices, and finally inverted each pile and over a fried egg and slathered on a thick brown savory sauce. Each serving was plated and placed on the counter in front of an empty stool. A few minutes later the kids arrived and tucked in. We sat next to one of their teachers, who explained that the group comprised 60 kids; they filled several of the other dining areas and were very well-behaved. We were given the typically incompressible menu, but were not overly concerned, as only one basic dish was on offer, with a few optional additions. The okonomiyaki was delicious!

2 We enjoyed watching and eating okonomiyaki with a large group of school kids and their teacher. Because of the Atomic Bomb, Hiroshima is the first Japanese city whose name was recognized by many of our generation in the West. The city was leveled shortly before the end of World War II by the first of two atomic bombs ever used. Not far from our restaurant, on a small nondescript street in the center of town, a simple monument marks ground zero. The better-known Hiroshima Peace Park, with other monuments, shrines, and memorials is nearby.

3 The Atomic Bomb Dome is in Hiroshima s Peace Park, a UN World Heritage site. Most of the next day was spent on an excursion by train and ferry boat to Itsukushima Island, which is famous for its UN World Heritage shrine, and the floating Torii. The present form of the shrine dates from We were accompanied by our guide, Keiko Yoshioka, a native of the area who lived for five years in New York when her husband was assigned there by his Japanese company. Itsukushima, popularly known as Miyajima, means Shrine Island, and as a shrine, births and deaths are not allowed to take place there. This restriction may not apply to the local population of Sitka Deer, which numbers over one thousand. The deer are completely tame and seemed to welcome or at least to tolerate the attentions of tourists, especially if food was involved. The surrounding waters of the Sea of Japan are known for farmed fish, including oysters, eel, and more recently, yellow tail amberjack. Oysters were in season, and many food shops along the island s main street featured the bivalve served barbecued, fried on a stick, or fresh on the half shell. Momiji manju, small cakes in the shape of maple leaves with different sweet fillings, are another local specialty. Several shops featured complicated machines that automated the entire process of forming and baking the cakes. They were delicious, and Jim also enjoyed the oysters and eel.

4 High tide at Floating Tori of Itsukushima Island Except for the small tourist-oriented town of Miyajimacho, Itsukushima is a sparsely populated, mountainous place with some beautiful parks and gardens on the lower levels near the sea and substantial peaks farther inland. A two-leg cable car system ascends to the 1400-foot top of Mount Misen. The 360 panorama would have been worth the climb, but was equally spectacular to us lazy tourists who rode up to the top. Several of the many islands in the Sea of Japan are visible from atop Mount Misen. November is a popular time to be married in Japan, and we were fortunate to see two bridal parties taking advantage of the spectacular fall foliage, especially that of the brilliant red Japanese maple tree. Up close the trees were dazzling, threatening to outshine the brides; seen from the heights, the crimson spots of Japanese Maple and Japanese Rowan stood out prominently against the green mountainsides.

5 Shichi-Go-San ("Seven-Five-Three") is a traditional rite of passage for three- and seven-year-old girls and three- and five-year-old boys, held annually in mid-november to celebrate the growth and well-being of young children. We saw several of these celebrants dressed in their finest with hair-dos to match. To see pictures of this foliage, the brides, the kids, and some of the other interesting and beautiful things that we found on Itsukushima Island, go back to start and click on the Picture Gallery link. We re now off to Fukuoka, where we have tickets for a Sumo tournament, which has been dominating local news. Should be fun.