Charming Catholic churches, lofty Orthodox

Transcription

1 MAŁOPOLSKA Wooden Architecture Route Table of contents Chapter I. Kraków and its surroundings Chapter II. Tarnów and its surroundings Chapter III. Surroundings of Nowy Sącz and Gorlice.. 17 Chapter IV. Orawa, Podhale, Spisz and Pieniny Altar servers in front of the church in Paczółtowice, photo by M. Zaręba Charming Catholic churches, lofty Orthodox churches, magnificent manor houses, elegant villas and simple, yet beautiful cottages all made of wood. Such unique buildings can be admired on the Wooden Architecture Route. In the Małopolska Province, the route covers over 1500 km and includes 250 various buildings and building complexes. The most famous among them are naturally those inscribed on the UNESCO List of World Heritage Sites: the churches in Binarowa, Dębno Podhalańskie, Lipnica Murowana and Sękowa. These are however just a few examples from a plethora of incredibly valuable buildings located on the Małopolska route. It must be remembered that historic wooden architecture, an inherent element of the Polish landscape, is in fact best preserved in Małopolska. It merges beautifully with the local landscape green valleys, picturesque hills and soaring mountain peaks. All buildings on the Wooden Architecture Route have information boards, as well as road signs that will lead you to them. From May to September, as part of the Open Wooden Architecture Route project, some churches (including the Orthodox ones) are open to visitors. It is a unique opportunity to see what is normally inaccessible.

2 Nadwiślański Ethnographic Park in Wygiełzów, photo by M. Zaręba Wooden architecture in Małopolska Wood, being easy to process and widely available, was the primary material used for construction in old Poland. Lower quality wood was used for constructing cottages and outbuildings, and country carpenters didn t always apply themselves to their work, thus shortening the lifespan of such buildings. The situation was different in case of churches: healthy trees of impressive sizes were chosen as material. After falling, they were diligently debarked, dried and processed. Sacred buildings were erected mainly by professional city carpenters, who were members of specialized carpentry workshops. The old churches in Małopolska to a large degree owe their glory to the work of their hands. Architecture in Małopolska was dominated by log construction beams were placed one on top of another, creating so-called framework, which was then joined together at the corners using various carpentry techniques. Even in later centuries, nails were still not used for joining wooden elements. Adjacent pieces were carefully matched together. Wooden pegs were sometimes used to reinforce the construction. The buildings were frequently decorated, for instance with solar motifs and various carved and painted plant ornaments. Churches The most spectacular wooden buildings are old Catholic churches and Orthodox churches. The first wooden temples in Poland did not survive until today. It is assumed that the first such constructions were small, clear span buildings. Together with the shift in liturgical needs, they later developed into medieval village churches. They were oriented and consisted of a square-shaped nave and a narrower, also square-shaped chancel, covered with separate roofs. There were no towers or annexes. The typical Gothic model of a wooden temple developed on the territory of Małopolska in the 15 th century. This model was later repeated in dozens of buildings, up until the 17 th century. On the territory we are focusing on, only a few 15 th century sacred buildings survive, e.g. in Kraków-Mogiła and Dębno Podhalańskie; many more (a few dozen) churches date back to the 16 th century. What was a Gothic wooden church in Małopolska characterised by? In contrast with older buildings, both segments the nave and the chancel were covered with a common, homogeneous roof. It stabilized the construction and increased its durability. The silhouette of the roof was steep and the building slender. A carpentry detail (visible in the form of door and window frames, as well as moulded and bevelled beams) and quite a wide range of decorative forms appeared. The perfection of the construction workers continues to amaze. Larch or fir logs were carefully matched, creating solid walls. Initially, they were not covered with any protective material. Shingle insulation came later, and was followed by boarding. Small windows were only cut out in south-facing walls, while the church could always be entered through two entrances: the main one, in the western wall of the nave, and the side one, in the middle of the nave s southern wall. The churches still had no towers (at least no such buildings survived), while the sacred function of the building was announced by a little bell tower on the roof. The bells were placed in free-standing belfries. The first known towers adjoining to the main body of the church appeared as late as at the turn of the 16 th and 17 th centuries. They were characteristically shaped, with sloping walls, overhanging bell housing and pyramid-shaped domes. The churches were surrounded with so-called soboty, i.e. special arcades. This characteristic element, which increased the appeal of the main body of the church and made it look more settled, developed from roofs and was to protect the underpinning from humidity. Around the 17 th century these arcades took on another role: they became temporary shelters for people, particularly pilgrims coming to churches located in secluded areas. The church was surrounded by a fence, while the area around it was used for burials. Wooden fences were quickly replaced by more durable walls made from square stone, covered with shingled roofs. There were always trees growing around the church. They protected the building from winds and thunders, while today they are also a characteristic element of sacral architecture. The outside appearance of Gothic churches, mainly the main body proportions, didn t change in the following centuries. New artistic trends were reflected almost exclusively in the interior decor. Two visible external manifestations of new styles were the bulbous, baroque-style tower domes and added chapels of a baroque or classical character. Lemko Orthodox churches The southern parts of the Nowy Sącz and Gorlice Counties are characterised by Lemko Orthodox churches that merge beautifully with the local landscape. Just like Catholic churches, they were erected in carefully selected places, mainly on small hills, and surrounded with a circle of trees. Until the end of the 18 th century, Orthodox churches were built only with wood, using the log construction technique. Coniferous trees were used for this purpose. However, it is worth noting that no Orthodox church was The domes of an Orthodox church in Kwiatoń, photo by P. Mierniczak entirely constructed of the most durable and noble kind of wood, i.e. larch wood. It was only used for the elements that had to be resistant to humidity. Originally, the buildings only had one, western entrance, while window openings, just like in case of Catholic churches, were located only on south-facing walls. The construction of a typical, most characteristic Lemko Orthodox church was based on a three-part structure. It consisted of rooms similar in shape to a square: the chancel, the wider nave and the narthex. The latter, where only women convened during the service, was most often hidden under the tower. The nave and the chancel were covered by characteristic, tent-shaped, often tiered, hipped roofs (there were one, two or three vertical tiers on the surface of the roof ). They were covered with shingle, later replaced with cheaper, yet more durable metal roofing. The domes of the roofs were crowned with bulbous helmets with lantern imitations (the top floor extension in the form of a tower, which, in contrast to an actual lantern, did not provide additional lighting). The last element was topped with a small sphere and a cross always made of wrought iron. The element that characterised Lemko Orthodox churches was a white bell tower dominating over the entire structure. The finial of the tower usually imitated the finial of the roofs. The walls of the temple and the tower were initially lined with shingle, which was later replaced by boarding. Orthodox churches also used to be richly and colourfully painted. Apart from its aesthetic appeal, covering the external walls with paint also had a practical function: it protected from quick deterioration. Today there is almost nothing left to remind us that Lemko Orthodox churches used to be truly colourful. 2 3

3 Glossary of architectural terms Kraków and its surroundings arcade bay window bell housing boarding chancel hip roof log construction mansard roof nave podcień arcade rood beam shingle soboty three-part Orthodox church tiered roof an arch supported by two columns a part of a building covered with a separate roof, protruding from the surface of the wall on a certain level above the ground the highest, overhanging storey of a tower with a bell inside a surface of planks that constitutes the cover of a building wall the part of a Christian church reserved for the clergy and housing the main altar a roof consisting of a number of triangle-shaped surfaces that meet at the highest point the construction of walls built from wooden beams placed one on top of another and joined at the corners using various carpentry techniques a kind of a broken roof, whose lower slopes are steeper than its upper slopes the part of a church between the chancel and the vestibule (or narthex in case of Orthodox churches) used by the congregation open space at the bottom of a building situated along its elevation, limited by posts, pillars or columns a horizontal, decorative beam with a crucifix and statues of the saints on its top, placed between the main nave and the chancel flat, rectangular wooden planks used for covering roofs ground floor arcades an oblong Orthodox church consisting of three parts: narthex (vestibule), nave and chancel; in case of West Lemko Orthodox churches, the narthex is usually partially or fully under the tower. a roof, whose surface is divided into two or more parts, separated with a break, offset, wall or cornice Log construction, UMWM photo archive In the area around Kraków, the Wooden Architecture Route includes over 50 historic buildings. They are mainly charming, small-town wooden churches. From May to September, some of these normally closed buildings are open to visitors (usually: Fri 12pm 4pm, Sat 10am 2pm, Sun 12pm 4pm). The local area is home to churches in Barwałd Dolny, Kraków-Mogiła, Łopanów, Mętków, Osiek, Paczółtowice, Polanka Wielka, Racławice, Więcławice Stare, Wola Radziszowska and Woźniki. While exploring the region, you can also visit two interesting heritage parks: the Nadwiślański Ethnographic Park in Wygiełzów and the Folk Architecture Heritage Park (Skansen Budownictwa Ludowego) in Dob czyce. A few towns are famous for well-preserved wooden building complexes. The real gem is obviously Lanckorona with its 19 th century small-town architecture. Remains of wooden buildings can also be seen in Alwernia, while Ojców is home to some charming spa buildings. You can see some beautiful wooden manor houses in the towns of Miechów, Goszyce and Wola Zręczycka. Kraków itself also boasts some fascinating buildings. 4

4 Churches Church in Kraków-Mogiła, photo by P. Droździk Kraków-Mogiła, Church of St. Bartholomew The church in Kraków-Mogiła dates back to 1466, which makes it one of the oldest surviving churches in Małopolska. Even the name of its creator survives. He was the royal carpenter by the name of Maciej Mączka (as announced by the inscription carved on the southern portal of the church). The slender building has no towers, while the 18 th century wooden belfry standing right next to it has a dome-shaped helmet. The church premises are entered through the belfry. In the 18 th century, side chapels and a multi-storey sacristy were added to the church, which altered somewhat the simple medieval form of the building. The interior of the church is interesting. It features three naves, which was very rare among the known Gothic wooden churches in Małopolska. Although the furnishings and the polychrome come from the 18 th century, the ogival arcades between the naves and the carved portal are from the time when the church was originally built. Church of St. Bartholomew, ul. Klasztorna 11, Kraków, \ , ; May Sep, Fri 12pm 4pm, Sat 10am 2pm, Sun 12pm 4pm. Cistercian Abbey in Kraków-Mogiła one of Kraków s oldest sacred complexes from Renaissance lamus (storehouse) next to the manor in Branice, with an exhibition of the Archaeological Museum in Kraków devoted to prehistoric pottery. Church of the Visitation of the Virgin Mary in Paczółtowice, photo by M. Zaręba Paczółtowice, Church of the Visitation of the Virgin Mary This charming, fir church in Paczółtowice was built in Its characteristic, massive tower was added later, probably in the 18 th century, which is indicated by its sphere-shaped Baroque dome. The interior is decorated with polychromes, mainly from the 19 th century. Fragments of 17 th century wall paintings survived only the northern wall of the chancel and nave. The precious main altar (1604) features the locally venerated Gothic painting of the Virgin Mary of Paczółtowice. The historic furnishings include a bronze crucifix and baptismal font, as well as a large paschal candle holder, which was made of black Dębnik marble, along with a few epitaphs set in the church wall. Church of the Visitation of the Virgin Mary, Paczółtowice 14, \ ; May Sept, Fri 12pm 4pm, Sat 10am 2pm, Sun 12pm 4pm. Kraków Valleys are an ideal place for walks. Carmelite Monastery in Czerna, erected in the 17 th century, with the ruins of the so-called Devil s Bridge. Church in Racławice from the 16 th century, located on the Wooden Architecture Route. Chapel on the Water in Ojców, photo by M. Zaręba Ojców, Chapel on the Water Chapel of St. Joseph the Craftsman, which is the official name of the Chapel on the Water created in 1901 from converted spa baths (at the turn of the 19 th and 20 th centuries Ojców used to be a famous health and holiday resort). Although tsar Nicholas II issued an order forbidding the construction of sacred buildings in the Ojców area, it was cleverly circumvented by placing the building on water. This is how tradition explains the unusual location of the chapel. The well-shaped building, constructed on a cross-shaped plan and boarded with bright planks, is supported by stilts rooted in the bed of a stream. The chapel s roof is decorated with a lofty, openwork tower crowned with a cross. Particularly charming in the modest, bright interior of the chapel are the altars, whose shape resembles the roofs of mountain cottages. Chapel on the Water, Ojców, \ ; admission during services (Fri 5pm, Sun 8am, 10.30am and 6pm) and ceremonies. King Łokietek Cave, which you can reach by following the black trail from Ojców, and the nearby Dark Cave (both open to visitors). Mace of Hercules is the famous, uniquely shaped calcareous monadnock. Ojców, with its historic spa architecture and the ruins of the medieval stronghold. Castle in Pieskowa Skała, a Renaissance castle palace residence from the 16 th century, also known as the Pearl of Jura. Church of St. Andrew, photo by M. Zaręba Osiek, Church of St. Andrew The slender, harmonious body of the cemetery church in Osiek, surrounded by 500-year-old oak trees (natural monuments) will leave you positively impressed. The church dates back to the 16 th century and was built probably in the years The tower was added later (in the 17 th century), while the ground floor arcades ( podcienia ) were constructed in the 18 th century. It is worth having a peek inside the church to see the preserved fragments of paintings on the ceiling and walls dating back to the 16 th, 17 th and 18 th century. The Rococo pulpit shaped as Peter s boat stands out among the opulent furnishings. Church of St. Andrew, Osiek, \ , ; May Sept, Fri 12pm 4pm, Sat 10am 12pm, Sun 12pm 4pm. Churches on the Wooden Architecture Route, e.g. in Polanka Wielka, Jawiszowice, Głębowice and Nidek. Lanckorona with its wooden buildings and a unique, atmospheric market square (see p. 9). Heritage Park, Nadwiślański Etnographic Park in Wygiełzów, where you can admire historic wooden buildings, e.g. smalltown buildings, village architecture and sacred buildings. 6 7

5 Heritage Park in Dobczyce, UMWM photo archive Wygiełzów, Nadwiślański Ethnographic Park, UMWM photo archive Heritage parks Dobczyce, Folk Architecture Heritage Park The heritage park in Dobczyce, although not very large, is extremely interesting. A number of historic 19 th century wooden buildings are home to interesting exhibitions presenting local customs and tradition. Inside the funeral home, you can see various objects connected with old funeral rituals. The tavern houses an exhibition devoted to the region s ethnography (customs, clothes, appliances), while the guild room presents local crafts (including furriery, shoemaking and pottery). Visit the poultry house to see a collection of farming tools. The coach house is particularly interesting, as it features not only various types of coaches, but also different sleighs and farming tools. After exploring the heritage park, which is situated on the green Castle Hill, you can go to the ruins of the Dobczyce castle. It is open to visitors and included in the same ticket. Folk Architecture Heritage Park, Stare Miasto, Dobczyce, \ ; Apr and Oct, Tue Sun 10am 4pm; May Jun and Sept, Tue Fri 10am 4pm, Sat and Sun 10am 6pm; Jul Aug, Tue Fri 10am 6pm, Sat and Sun 10am 8pm; 6 PLN, concessions 4 PLN. Wooden manor in Wola Zręczycka (see p. 9), located on the Wooden Architecture Route. Wooden churches located on the Wooden Architecture Route in Gruszów, Łapanów, Krzesławice and Raciechowice. Wygiełzów, Nadwiślański Ethnographic Park The buildings that make up the heritage park present the tradition and culture of Western Cracovians who once lived here. Apart from interesting, beautifully restored examples of rural and small-town architecture, you can also admire the wonderful 17 th century church from Ryczów (still used for services), as well as the magnificent 18 th century manor from Droginia. The heritage park features a total of 25 precious buildings and outbuildings located in green surroundings (not taking into account landscape architecture). The originally furnished peasant homesteads are located within orchards and flower gardens, while the smalltown complex creates an enclave, whose character refers to old market squares. An excellent tavern situated in one of the historic buildings invites you to savour regional dishes. The heritage park hosts different events aimed at promoting local tradition. Another advantage is the park s location at the foot of the Lipowiec hill, where you can visit the beautiful ruins of a medieval castle. Nadwiślański Ethnographic Park, ul. Podzamcze 1, Wygiełzów, \ ; Apr Sept, daily 8am 6pm, Oct Mar, daily 8am 3pm; 8 PLN, concessions 5 PLN, family 21 PLN. Alwernia with the 18 th century monastery complex and a beautiful market square. Church in Mętków, located on the Wooden Architecture Route, with beautiful late Baroque furnishings. Market square in Lanckorona, photo by P. Dębski Wooden buildings Lanckorona, market square Lanckorona, with its preserved 19 th century small-town buildings, is an unforgettable place. Wooden one-storey houses surround the vast, sloping market square the centre of the town since it received town privileges (14 th century) and the adjacent streets. Most of the buildings were erected after the fire in 1869, which consumed almost the entire town. Housetops face the market square or the streets, while their characteristic sloping roofs have wide, protruding eaves that, looking from the front, combine beautifully to create something of an arcade. The eaves also cover narrow passages between the buildings called miedzuchy. One of the market square houses, which by a strange twist of fate survived the fire, houses the Regional Chamber presenting exhibits connected with everyday lives of the region s old inhabitants. Regional Chamber, Rynek 133, Lanckorona, \ ; May Sept, Wed 10am 4pm, Sat 10am 6pm, Sun 12pm 6pm; 5 PLN, concessions 3 PLN. Manor house in Stryszów housing a museum with an exhibition of the interior décor of a 19 th century gentry house. Ruins of a Gothic castle on the Lanckorońska Mountain, together with a number of tourist routes that surround it. Sanctuary in Kalwaria Zebrzydowska, inscribed on the UNESCO list. Bella Vita manor house, photo by J. Gorlach Wola Zręczycka, Bella Vita manor house The Bella Vita manor house, situated among forests and meadows of the Wieliczka Foothills, has a unique atmosphere. Erected in the 19 th century and partially converted in the 1930s, it has maintained the charm of old residences. Red mansard roof, larch log walls and the stone foundation bring to mind the archetypal landed estate. It is one of the few well preserved historic wooden manor houses. It is worth entering the building to see an art gallery with interesting exhibitions. You can also see a beautifully arranged drawing room with historic furniture. The house, whose name can be translated as Beautiful Life, also houses a hotel and a restaurant. From spring to autumn, you can relax in a summer garden and enjoy coffee and snacks in the shadow of the trees. Bella Vita manor house, Wola Zręczycka, \ , ; restaurant daily 1pm 8pm, gallery daily 10am 8pm. Church in Gdów from the 14 th century, with its beautiful Rococo furnishings. Church in Łapanów from 1529, located on the Wooden Architecture Route, decorated inside with a polychrome from 1843 and a Gothic stone baptismal font from the 16 th century. 8 9

6 Tarnów and its surroundings The interior of St. Leonard s Church, photo by S. Gacek Church of the Holy Trinity on Terlikówka, Tarnów, photo by D. Zaród In the Tarnów area, there are almost 40 interesting historic buildings that belong to the Wooden Architecture Route. The UNESCO listed St. Leonard s Church in Lipnica Murowana is undoubtedly one of the most interesting and famous ones. Many more charming churches have survived between the Raba and Wisłoka rivers. Some are especially worth recommending, as they are open to visitors on particular days between May and September (usually: Thu 12pm 4pm, Fri 12pm 4pm, Sat 10pm 2pm). You can see these churches in Chronów, Gosprzydowa, Iwkowa, Rajbrot, Skrzyszów, Sobolów, Tymowa and Zawada. In Tarnów, the region s capital, you can admire two beautiful sacred buildings. The area also boasts historic manor houses converted into museums, for instance that in Dołęga, as well as wooden building complexes. An excellent example of the latter is the so-called Painted Village in Zalipie. 10

7 Church of the Assumption of Holy Mary on Burek, photo by K. Bańkowski Churches Tarnów, Church of the Assumption of Holy Mary One of the oldest wooden churches in Małopolska, built in However, the massive, square-shaped tower was added much later (the beginning of the 20 th century). The interior of this shapely, Gothic building is decorated with a delightful polychrome. The ceiling is covered with paintings from the interwar period, but the northern wall of the chancel still has fragments of earlier, 16 th and 17 th century flower themed polychromes. The main altar holds, famous for its miraculous powers, a 16 th century image of the Virgin Mary with Infant Jesus. Church of the Assumption of Holy Mary, ul. Najświętszej Panny Marii 1, Tarnów, \ ; May Sept, Thu 12pm 4pm, Fri 12pm 4pm, Sat 10am 2pm. Tarnów, also known as the pearl of Renaissance, with a particularly beautiful Old Town boasting a Gothic-Renaissance town hall, Renaissance tenement buildings and a 15 th century cathedral with an extremely precious group of gravestones. Church in Skrzyszów from 1517, located on the Wooden Architecture Route, built using log construction technique and featuring rich furnishings from the period between the 15 th and 19 th centuries. Dębno Castle Museum, a fortified residence from the 15 th century. 12 Town hall in the market square in Tarnów, photo by Ł. Olszewski Tarnów, Church of the Holy Trinity on Terlikówka The exact date of construction of the church on Terlikówka is unknown, but we know it happened in the second half of the 16 th century. In the 19 th century, the church came close to being torn down, as it was in danger of collapsing. Luckily, it was saved, which is announced by the inscription on the rood beam: Król cum plebe pia labentes corrogit aedes ( Król [the then provost of the Tarnów cathedral] and the people of God lift the collapsing church ). Today, the shingle covered and boarded church looks stunning. Its charm is increased by the Baroque tower, crowned with a bulbous dome. Also beautiful is the modest, whitewashed interior with a flat ceiling decorated with a 20 th century blue polychrome. Church on Terlikówka, ul. Tuchowska 5, Tarnów, \ ; May Sept, Thu 12pm 4pm, Fri 12pm 4pm, Sat 10am 2pm. Lipnica palms, photo D. Zaród Lipnica Murowana, St. Leonard s Church The church in Lipnica is one of the most famous historic buildings in Małopolska. Being one of the oldest and best preserved wooden sacred buildings in the province, it was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in The church was erected towards the end of the 15 th century, although local tradition connects it with the year 1141, when a wooden church was to be built where a pagan temple once stood. Today, the small, compact edifice merges with the beautiful landscape. It is guarded by mighty trees surrounded with old cemetery graves. The church has survived in an almost unchanged form. The only two changes were the addition of soboty arcades in the 17 th century, and a western portal added in the 19 th century. The interior is breathtaking, on account of an ornament and figural polychrome from different periods that occupies the entire wall. The oldest decoration (that of the chancel ceiling St. Leonard Church, photo J. Gawron from the end of the 15 th century, and the nave ceiling from the 16 th century) was performed with the use of special stencils known as patrons. Chancel wall paintings date back to the 17 th century, while those in the nave come from the 18 th century. Until recently, the interior was graced with three extremely precious Gothic altars (from the 15 th and 16 th centuries), which were unfortunately stolen. When they were retrieved, they were moved to the Diocesan Museum in Tarnów, while the church received their copies. One curiosity is the 17 th century instrument positive organ (a chest organ instrument), which is used during summer concerts. 13 St. Leonard s Church, Lipnica Murowana 39, \ , ; admission only with a guide: May Jun and Sept Oct, Mon Sat 9am 5pm, Sun and holidays 1pm 5pm, Jul Aug, Mon Sat 9am 6pm, Sun and holidays 1pm 5pm; 3 PLN, concessions: 2 PLN. Lipnica palms Each year on the Palm Sunday the market square in Lipnica hosts a competition for the tallest and most beautiful palm. Local women adorn fir wood poles wrapped in wicker with colourful ribbons, crêpe paper flowers and catkins. Blessed palm trees, which sometimes as tall as 30 metres, are believed to protect sickness and guarantee good harvest. After the competition, the elaborate palm compositions are placed on the market square and continue to grace it for another couple of weeks.

8 St. Ursula s Church, UMWM photo archive Church of Visitation of the Virgin Mary, UMWM photo archive Gosprzydowa, St. Ursula s Church It s hard to deny the charm of the larch log church in Gosprzydowa. Dating from the end of the 17 th century, it is one of the few examples of wooden Baroque churches. It is covered by a high, shingle-covered roof. Take some time to visit to step inside and see the 19 th century polychrome (and a 20 th century one in the chapel). The mainly Baroque furnishings include a Gothic, stone baptismal font (15 th century), while the main altar features a marvellous image of the Virgin Mary with Infant Jesus, locally known as the Comforter of the Dying. St. Ursula s Church, Gosprzydowa, \ ; May Sept, Thu 12pm 4pm, Fri 12pm 4pm, Sat 10am 2pm. Church in Chronów from 1685, located on the Wooden Architecture Route; interior decorated with a polychrome from Biesiadki a church from 1661, located on the Wooden Architecture Route, and wooden buildings in the village from the interwar period. Nowy Wiśnicz a castle of the Kmita and Lubomirski magnate families, built as a pallazzo in fortezza, and the Koryznówka manor house with Jan Matejko s biographical museum. Iwkowa, Church of Visitation of the Virgin Mary The simple, small cemetery church in Iwkowa is one of the oldest wooden buildings in Małopolska. It was built at the end of the 15 th century (the exact date is unknown) and looks very enchanting, surrounded with gravestones and immersed in deep shadows of trees. The small edifice hides a delightful interior: the walls are decorated with a late Renaissance figural polychrome (1619), the chancel has a stained-glass window (a copy, as the 15 th century original was transferred to the Diocesan Museum in Tarnów), while the nave still features two uniquely beautiful 15 th century portals crowned with arches adorned with threeleaf motifs. On the rood beam, you can see sculptures of the Crucifixion group from the 14 th and 15 th centuries. Church of Visitation of the Virgin Mary, Iwkowa, \ ; May Sep, Thu 12pm 4pm, Fri 12pm 4pm, Sat 10am 2pm. When visiting Iwkowa, it is worth tasting local dishes prepared with the use of prunes the region is famous for growing and drying this fruit. You can also walk along the local Prune Route. Czchów, with a Gothic church, the remains of a 13 th century castle and historic architecture in the market square. Church in Tymowa from 1764, located on the Wooden Architecture Route, and featuring 18 th century, late Baroque furnishings. Tropsztyn Castle in Wytrzyszczka a knight s stronghold from the 14 th century, situated on a beautiful hill by the Czchowskie lake. Manor house in Dołęga, photo by D. Zaród Wooden buildings Dołęga, manor house The manor house in Dołęga will take you back to the 19 th century life of landed gentry. On the outside, whitewashed walls contrast beautifully with brown shingle, while the furniture and equipment inside remind about the historic occupants of the residence and their times (items inside include mementoes connected with the January Uprising). The larch wood manor house was erected in At the turn of the 19 th and 20 th centuries, it was visited by, among others, Stanisław Wyspiański and Adam Asnyk. Some paintings by the former are displayed inside the manor house. Manor house in Dołęga, Dołęga 10, \ ; May Sept, Tue Fri 9am 3pm, Sat and Sun 10am 4pm, Oct Apr, Tue Fri 9am 3pm, Sat and Sun 10am 2pm, 4 PLN, concessions: 2 PLN. Koryznówka, Nowy Wiśnicz, photo by M. Zaręba Nowy Wiśnicz, Koryznówka A small manor house know as Koryznówka was erected in the middle of the 19 th century. It houses the biographical museum of Jan Matejko. Leonard Serafiński, the former owner of the house, was a close friend and brother-in-law of the painter. Many of Matejko s drawings were created in Wiśnicz and they can be seen in the museum. The manor house itself managed to survive in an almost unchanged condition. Jan Matejko Museum, Stary Wiśnicz 148, \ ; Tue Sat 10am 2pm, Sun 11am 3pm; 5 PLN, group ticket: 3 PLN. Castle in Nowy Wiśnicz a castle of the Kmita and Lubomirski magnate families, built as a pallazzo in fortezza, restored and open to visitors

9 Surroundings of Nowy Sącz and Gorlice Zalipie, photo by D. Zaród Zalipie design, photo by D. Zaród Zalipie, painted cottages Zalipie, also known as the Painted Village, is famous for its unusual decoration of wooden houses. The walls of the houses and outbuildings, wells, fences and even dog kennels were painted by local housewives-artists in fabulous, colourful flower motifs and ornaments. The custom of cottage decoration has been cultivated in Zalipie since the end of the 19 th century. There are between ten and twenty painted cottages in the village, each painted in a different style, which guarantees to leave you impressed. The most famous local artist was Felicja Curyłowa, whose cottage remains an extraordinary, wonderful example of Zalipie decoration style. Today her house is something of a museum and can be visited. Each year during the first weekend following Corpus Christi, Zalipie holds the Painted Cottage competition, during which, among other things, the most beautifully decorated cottage is chosen. Cottage of Felicja Curyłowa, Zalipie 135, \ ; Tue Sun 10am 4pm; 3 PLN, concessions: 2 PLN. In Dąbrowa Tarnowska, a church from 1771, located on the Wooden Architecture Route, with beautiful furnishings from the end of the 17 th century, and a synagogue housing the Judaic Museum. Wierzchosławice, Wincenty Witos Museum The museum comprises two elements: the house, where Witos was born and spent his childhood, and the farmhouse that he built for himself at the beginning of the 20 th century. The family house, known as the old house, was built in It has a thatched roof, while its walls are covered with clay. Inside you will find old items and farming tools. Inside the socalled new homestead, you can see, among other things, the original study of the leader of the peasant movement, a photography exhibition presenting his life and work, as well as an exhibition of historic Peasant Movement banners. Wincenty Witos Museum, Wierzchosławice 698, \ ; Apr Oct, Tue Fri 8am 3.30pm, Sat and Sun 10am 3pm, Nov Mar, Tue Fri 8am 3.30pm, Sun 10am 3pm; 4 PLN, concessions: 2 PLN. In Wojnicz, the Dębski family palace from the 19 th century and the church from the 16 th century located on the Wooden Architecture Route. The main altar features a fragment of a triptych from around Detail in the church in Sękowa, photo by J. Mysiński The surroundings of Nowy Sącz and Gorlice are a truly picturesque area that will delight you with its historic-cultural monuments. Over 100 buildings in the area are part of the Wooden Architecture Route. Of all the old churches, the ones in Binarowa and Sękowa are world-famous and inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. However, the characteristic feature of the region are the Lemko Orthodox churches (today often used by the Roman Catholic Church). Their unique silhouettes (see p. 3) merge beautifully with the landscape and delight visitors. Some of these usually closed buildings are open to visitors from May to September (usually: Fri 12pm 4pm, Sat 10am 2pm, Sun 12pm 4pm). When exploring the area, you can see the Orthodox churches in the following towns and villages: Bartne, Bielanka, Binczarowa, Brunary, Czarna, Kwiatoń, Łosie, Nowica, Owczary, Powroźnik, Skwirtne, Szczawne, Uście Gorlickie, Wojkowa, Wysowa-Zdrój and Złockie. Another attraction in the region are heritage parks, particularly the magnificent Sądecki Ethnographic Park, but other interesting parks include those in Stróże and Szymbark. If you are looking for a unique atmosphere, visit Krynica-Zdrój, where you can find beautiful, 19 th century spa villas. 16

10 Churches Pulpit in St. Michael Archangel Church, photo by P. Witosławski Binarowa, St. Michael Archangel Church The walls and roofs of the church in Binarowa (1500), were covered with shingle. Its massive tower, was added a hundred years later, as were the soboty arcades. The interior of the church, all covered with paintings, is guaranteed to leave you impressed. The polychrome on the ceiling dates back to the beginning of the 16 th century, while that on the walls from the 17 th. The most precious furnishings are the Gothic sculptures and low reliefs in the altars, as well as the stone baptismal font. Also stunning are the door fittings that remember the times when the building was constructed. In 2003, UNESCO appreciated the unique nature of the building and added it to its World Heritage List. St. Michael Archangel Church, Binarowa 409, \ ; May Sept, Fri 12pm 4pm, Sat 10am 2pm, Sun 12pm 4pm. Biecz, known as Small Kraków, with a medieval defence wall complex, a town hall with a beautiful Renaissance tower, and a monumental parish church of Corpus Christi from the late Gothic period. Ciężkowice with wooden architecture in the market square and an extraordinary Stone City nature reserve. Church of Sts. Philip and Jacob the Apostles, photo by J. Mysiński Sękowa, Church of Sts. Philip and Jacob the Apostles It is impossible not to be delighted by the church in Sękowa. The extremely tall, shingle-covered roof and wide soboty arcades, together with the square-shaped tower with a domed helmet, create a picture-postcard view. It is one of the most beautiful churches in Małopolska, whose basic body was created around 1520, and although the building was extensively damaged during World War I, it was rescued, and eventually (2003) inscribed on the UNESCO list. The characteristically simple interior is very peaceful. The only element with rich ornamentation is the late Renaissance main altar. On the southern wall of the chancel, you can still see fragments of a 19 th century polychrome. Church of Sts. Philip and Jacob the Apostles, Sękowa, \ ; May Sept, Fri 12pm 4pm, Sat 10am 2pm, Sun 12pm 4pm. Orthodox churches located on the Wooden Architecture Route in the nearby villages of Ropica Górna and Owczary. World War I cemeteries in Gorlice and in Łużna on the Pustki hill. Andrzejówka, photo by J. Gorlach Ropica Górna, photo by P. Mierniczak Lemko Orthodox churches Andrzejówka, Orthodox church of the Dormition of Theotokos The exact date of construction of the Andrzejówka Orthodox church (presently a Roman Catholic church) is unknown, but it is assumed to be around The three-part structure complements the landscape. It has shingle-covered walls and squat roofs with bulbous tops, while its romantic character is intensified by the low stone wall that surrounds it. The interior of the church is decorated with a polychrome from the turn of the 19 th and 20 th centuries, and you can still admire a 19 th century iconostasis. Orthodox Church of the Dormition of Theotokos, Andrzejówka, \ ; if you would like to visit the church, please ask the verger (the house by the brook). Orthodox churches located on the Wooden Architecture Route in Szczawnik and Wojkowa. Orthodox church in Bartne, photo by J. Mysiński Bartne, Greek Catholic and Orthodox churches of Sts. Cosmas and Damian It is worth visiting Bartne, as it is a village still inhabited mostly by Lemkos. There are two Orthdox churches here, both dedicated to the same saints. The Greek Catholic church, built in 1842, with shingled roofs and walls, houses a museum of Lemko church and folk art. The church merges with the landscape and looks very impressive. Inside, you will find an 18 th century iconostasis. The newer, still active Orthodox church was built in the years and represents a different style. It has no towers, its walls are boarded and it is metal-roofed. The furnishings include a modern iconostasis with a tsar doorway that dates back to the times when the church was erected. Greek Catholic church, Bartne, \ ; Tue Sun after notifying Mr. Józef Madzik (Bartne 25); 4 PLN, concessions: 2 PLN, admission free on Thursdays. Orthodox church, Bartne, \ ; May Sept, Fri 12pm 4pm, Sat 10am 2pm, Sun 12pm 4pm. Bartne, where you can still see old Lemko cottages, and a 19 th century stone granary with a stonework exhibition. Orthodox church in Ropica Górna with its delightful architecture

11 Orthodox church in Hańczowa, photo by J. Mysiński Hańczowa, Orthodox Church of Protection of the Virgin Mary The magnificent Orthodox church in Hańczowa has classical shapes and shingled walls. It was built in the first half of the 19 th century. In 1956 it was saved from demolition and later renovated. Also restored was the interior that features a magnificent iconostasis from the end of the 19 th century, as well as an ornament and figural polychrome. The church premises are surrounded by a wooden fence with integrated characteristic gates (from 1811 and 1871). The tower is decorated with painted clock faces. The presently Orthodox church is used by the Hańczowa parish. Orthodox Church of Protection of the Virgin Mary, Hańczowa 56, \ ; phone arrangement. Orthodox church in Kwiatoń, UMWM photo archive Kwiatoń, Orthodox Church of St. Paraskewia It is one of the most beautiful Orthodox churches in Poland (presently a Roman Catholic church) and a quintessential example of the Lemko style (see p. 3). It was built probably in the second half of the 17 th century, while the tower is a little younger (18 th century). The body consists of 3 distinctive elements and rises up gradually: from the lowest chancel, through the higher nave up to the dominating, lofty tower. Each element is covered by a roof with a characteristic onion dome. The roofs and walls are shingled. The interior still holds rich furnishings from the 18 th and 19 th centuries. The polychrome and wall paintings imitating marble columns and cornices add charm to the interior. Orthodox Church of St. Paraskewia, Uście Gorlickie 88, \ ; May Sep, Fri 12pm 4pm, Sat 10am 2pm, Sun 12pm 4pm. Orthodox church of the Protection of the Virgin Mary, UMWM photo archive Owczary, Orthodox church of the Protection of the Virgin Mary The Orthodox church in Owczary (presently used by the Roman Catholic and Greek Catholic parishes) is one of the oldest of Lemko churches. It was erected in 1653, which is noted by the date carved in the western portal of the nave. Although only the nave and portal remain from the original construction (the chancel and the sacristy were added in 1701, while the tower was built in 1783), the body of the building is profoundly beautiful. Already from a distance, one can see the polygonal roofs crowned with bulbous helmets with false lanterns. The church also has precious furnishings, particularly the 17 th century iconostasis. Orthodox Church of the Protection of the Virgin Mary, Owczary, Sękowa parish, \ ; May Sept, Fri 12pm 4pm, Sat 10am 2pm, Sun 12pm 4pm. Wysowa-Zdrój, Orthodox church of St. Michael Archangel The local Orthodox church, erected in 1779, differs a little from the previously described Lemko churches. Instead of being shingled, its walls are boarded with brown-painted horizontal planks, while the roofs and their bulbous domes are covered with sheet metal. The upper part of the tower is graced with painted clock faces. The interior, partially altered at the beginning of the 20 th century, is decorated with a figural, ornament and architectural polychrome. The iconostasis and the side altar with an icon of the Mother of God are Baroque and come from the 18 th century. The church is presently used by the Orthodox parish in Hańczowa. Orthodox church of St. Michael Archangel, Wysowa- -Zdrój, Hańczowa parish, \ ; May Sept, Fri 12pm 4pm, Sat 10am 2pm, Sun 12pm 4pm. Main Beskid Trail, passing through Hańczowa (among other places) is ideal for walks of various length. Wysowa-Zdrój, a health resort with a beautiful Orthodox church (see p. 21). Orthodox church on Skwirtne from 1837, located on the Wooden Architecture Route, and one of the most beautiful west Lemko Orthodox churches. Orthodox church in Bielanka from around 1773 located on the Wooden Architecture Route and featuring a very beautiful iconostasis (1783). Shelter on Magura Małastowska, which can be reached by taking a walk from Owczary. Wysowa-Zdrój is a health resort with valuable springs of mineral water, which you can taste at the local pump room. Wooden chapel on the slope of the Jawor mountain built at the spot of the revelations of Virgin Mary

12 Heritage parks Szymbark, Folk Architecture Heritage Park It presents the little-known folk culture of the Gorlice Pogorzans. The collected structures include cottages, cowsheds, a barn, a smithy, grain mills, an oil mill, a hand weaver s cottage and a pottery furnace. Most of the structures date back to the 19 th century and contain original fittings. The park also holds presentations of the work of craftsmen cultivating old traditions. The heritage park is part of the Folk Architecture Centre, where you can also find a brick, 16 th century Gładyszów fortified manor, as well as a bourgeois manor house transferred from Gorlice. Prof. Roman Reinfuss Folk Architecture Heritage Park, Szymbark, \ ; May Sept, Tue Fri 9am 5pm, Sat and Sun 9am 6pm, Oct Apr, Mon Fri 9am 3pm; from 2 to 7 PLN Bee-keeping museum in Stróże, UMWM photo archive Sądecki Ethnographic Park, photo by I. Grzybek-Dulak Stróże, Bee-keeping museum This small heritage park is a wonderful source of knowledge about bees and honey. Apart from the interesting, extensive collection of hives (over 100) of various types (log, figural, frame, straw, including even hives from Africa). You can also see bee-keeping tools and accessories, while the museum guide will keep you interested with the history of bee-keeping and the application of individual items. Children can use the Bee village playground and a mini zoo (wit, among other animals, ostriches and Carpathian horses). There is also the Bartna Chata tavern and a shop selling local products. Bee-keeping museum, Stróże 235, \ ; daily 9am 4pm; 8 PLN, concessions: 7 PLN, children under 4: admission free. Witoldówka villa in Krynica-Zdrój, photo by A. Klimkowski Nowy Sącz, Sądecki Ethnographic Park The park in Nowy Sącz is one of the most beautiful heritage parks in Poland. This is to a large extent due to its thematic variety: more than 70 structures presents the architecture and culture of all ethnic groups that use to live in the region (the Lendians, the Pogorzans, the Highlanders, the Lemkos). The area showcases both sacred buildings (a magnificent 17 th century Lemko Orthodox church or the 16 th century Catholic church from Łososina Dolna), and examples of diverse rural architecture (including a 17 th century gentry manor house, cottages, outbuildings). There are also buildings connected with the other peoples from the multi-cultral Nowy Sącz region: Germans, Jews and Carpathian Gypsies. The restored settlement of the latter group is one of the park s largest attractions, similarly to the small-town buildings in the part known as the Galician Small Town. Sądecki Ethnographic Park, entrances: ul. Wieniawy Długoszowskiego 83b, ul. Lwowska 226, Nowy Sącz, \ , ; May Sept, Tue Sun 10am 6pm; Oct Apr, Mon Fri 10am 2pm; PLN 12, concessions: PLN 7, Sat admission free. Wooden buildings Krynica-Zdrój, wooden buildings Known as the Pearl of Polish health resorts, Krynica lies in the eastern part of Beskid Sądecki, in the Kryniczanka stream valley. It is one of Poland s most famous health resorts, which, apart from its location, owes its unique character to its delightful wooden architecture and mineral waters. 23 mineral water intakes with the most popular Kryniczanka are the local natural treasure, available in many stylish pump rooms. The resort developed rapidly after 1856, which was connected with the activity of Józef Dietl a professor of the Jagiellonian University, known as the father of Polish balneology. This period saw the construction of facilities such as the Old Mineral Baths, the Spa House and the beautiful, wooden Main Pump Room with a promenade. Krynica s most beautiful wooden houses, featuring elaborate wood carving, were built in the second half of the 19 th century, as a result of a large influx of patients. Magnificent villas with references to the architecture of Alpine health resorts usually had spacious front porches supported by pillars and one or two levels of balconies. The elevations were enriched with various bay windows, turrets and verandas. Many interesting buildings still stand by the Bulwary Dietla, i.e. Biała Róża (after 1855), Biały Orzeł (around 1857, designer: Bronisław Babel), Kosynier (1880), Romanówka (around the middle of the 19 th century), Węgierska Korona (around 1880), Wisła (the second half of the 19 th century), Witoldówka (1888). The beautiful Romanówka villa houses the Nikifor Museum, where you can admire the works of the ingenious primitivist painter, Epifaniusz Drowniak ( ), known as Nikifor Krynicki. In the Słotwiński Park, you can also see the oldest spa facility of the resort the wooden Słotwinka Pump Room. Krynica is an extraordinary place that, apart from its wonderful microclimate, mineral waters, and beautiful wooden architecture, also offers some unforgettable cultural events, including the annual August Jan Kiepura Festival, attended by guests from all over the world. The town is also an ideal starting point for walking tours, for instance along the Jaworzyna Krynicka Range, as well as a wonderful winter ski resort. The town boasts Poland s longest gondola lift that will take you to the Jaworzyna Krynicka mountain, where you can take advantage of numerous ski slopes in Krynica and its surroundings. Wooden Orthodox churches located on the Wooden Architecture Route in Tylicz and Muszynka. Muszyna is a health resort with delightful, wooden smalltown architecture located on the Wooden Architecture Route, as well as a fragment of medieval castle walls that constitute an excellent vantage point

13 Orawa, Podhale, Spisz and Pieniny Koliba villa, photo by J. Gorlach Jaszczurówka, photo by J. Gorlach The picturesque landscape of Orawa, Podhale, Spisz and Pieniny hide numerous pearls of architecture, while the Wooden Architecture Route allows you to see almost 50 such buildings. Local sacred cultural heritage looks particularly impressive, as the silhouettes of shingled churches beautifully harmonise with the mountain landscape. The bestknown wooden church in the region is the one in Dębno Podhalańske, which is inscribed on the UNE- SCO heritage list. Nevertheless, other churches are not far behind in terms of craftsmanship. It is definitely worth having a look inside these churches, especially that some of them are open to visitors between May and September (usually: Thu 2pm 6pm, Fri 2pm 6pm, Sat 10am 2pm). This concerns the churches in the following towns and villages: Bukowina Tatrzańska, Grywałd, Jurgów, Lachowice, Łopuszna, Nowy Targ. The mountain region also boasts some interesting, locally diverse examples of rural architecture. Some beautiful Podhale region cottages can be seen in the village of Chochołów, while the heritage park in Zubrzyca Górna has some characteristic Orava style buildings. One uniquely charming town is Szczawnica, famous for its elegant spa villas, while in Zakopane, visitors can admire houses built in the style created by Stanisław Witkiewicz. 24

14 Churches Dębno Podhalańskie, St. Michael Archangel Church The wooden church in Dębno, known as the Pearl of Podhale, is surrounded by a circle of old trees and dates back to the 15 th century. The exact date of construction is unknown, but it is assumed to be The tower, crowned with a pyramidshaped dome, was added in The stylish, harmonious body of the church hides magnificent, unique polychromes from the turn of the 15 th and 16 th centuries. Colourful decorative paintings featuring different motifs cover all ceilings and walls (except for the whitewashed fragments of nave walls), and even the choir platform, the pulpit and the benches. The polychrome was created with the use of stencils, while the width of the strip corresponds with the wall logs and ceiling planks. The church has very precious furnishings. Particular attention shoud be paid to Gothic main altar a painted triptych from the turn of the 15 th and 16 th centuries, and the 14 th century crucifix on the rood beam. In 2003, UNESCO appreciated the unique nature of the church and inscribed it on its World Heritage List. St. Michael Archangel Church, photo by P. Witosławski Grywałd, Church of St. Martin The small church in Grywałd is yet another precious building in the Podhale region. It dates back to the second half of the 15 th century, and it has maintained its Gothic form and character despite a number of conversions. A massive tower with a wide base that adds the building some military character was added to the modestly sized main body of the church. The shingled church blends beautifully with the landscape it occupies a small hill, standing at a certain distance from the village buildings. Its charm is intensified by the surrounding fieldstone wall. The interior is decorated with wall paintings dating to the beginning of the 17 th century, while the most precious item inside is the late Gothic triptych from the beginning of the 16 th century. Church of St. Martin, Grywałd, \ ; May Sept, Thu 2pm 6pm, Fri 2pm 6pm, Sat 10am 2pm. St. Anna s cemetery church, photo by J. Gorlach Nowy Targ, St. Anna s cemetery church The beginnings of the innovative St. Anna s church are quite mysterious and unknown. Folk legends claim it was built at the beginning of the 13 th century (the inscription above the chancel says 1219, but there is no evidence that this is the year of the construction), but the second half of the 15 th century is a much more realistic option. The church, rising from a small, yet steep hill, has undergone a few alterations, but managed to maintain the harmony of its body. It looks very enchanting, on account of its tall, shingled roof and a younger, most probably 18 th century tower crowned with a bulbous dome. The interior is decorated with paintings from 1880, while furnishings include items from different periods. The late Baroque main altar contains precious paintings from the turn of the 15 th and 16 th centuries. St. Anna s church, ul. św. Anny (cemetery premises), Niwa district, Nowy Targ, Parish \ ; May Sep, Thu 2pm 6pm, Fri 2pm 6pm, Sat 10am 2pm. Chalets in Jurgów, UMWM photo archive Bukowina Tatrzańska, Sacred Heart of Jesus church The church in Bukowina might not date back to the middle ages (it was erected in the years ) but it is still worth visiting. The style of the building draws on traditional wooden church architecture: it has a single nave and a tower crowned with a pyramid-shaped dome. Its body is firmly set on the ground and built partially from bricks, while the white plastered nave and chancel contrast beautifully with the remaining, boarded elements of the building and the shingled roof. The interior features a 20 th century figural polychrome, while noteworthy items inside include wooden altars from Sacred Heart of Jesus church, ul. Kościuszki 1, Bukowina Tatrzańska, \ ; May Sept, Thu 2pm 6pm, Fri 2pm 6pm, Sat 10am 2pm. St. Michael Archangel Church, ul. Kościelna 42, Dębno Podhalańskie, \ ; group visits only: Mon Fri 9am 12pm and 2pm 4.30pm, Sat 9am 12pm; admission free donations welcome. Białka Gorge nature reserve offering a wonderful hiking area of great natural interest. Pieniny National Park offers numerous hiking and cycling routes, as well as its main attraction rafting trips down the Dunajec river. Castle in Czorsztyn and the castle in Niedzica, situated on the opposite side of the Czorsztyn lake, which you can reach during the season by using the Biała Dama ship. Nowy Targ, St. Catherine s church the oldest existing church in Podhale, built in 1346, market square surrounded by historic tenement buildings, a 19 th century town hall, and a good starting point for hiking, cycling, skiing and canoeing. Sanctuary of Our Lady Queen of Podhale in Ludźmierz, with a wonderful figurine of the Virgin Mary of Ludźmierz from the 15 th century and a beautiful rosary garden. Churches located on the Wooden Architecture Route in Białka Tatrzańska and Jurgów (see p. 28). Korkosz Croft in Czarna Góra, housing a museum, which presents the reality of an old and rich farm from the Spis region

15 Jurgów, church of St. Sebastian and Our Lady of the Rosary This small church was erected in the second half of the 17 th century, most probably in The brick sacristy and chapel are the result of the 20 th century extension. The oblong building is covered with a shingled roof. Shingle aso covers all the walls of the church, including the brick ones. As opposed to the previously described buildings, the church has no tower, while the free-standing belfry from the end of the 19 th century is different in its character from the main church building. Another distinctive feature of the church in Jurgów is the opulent Rococo interior, which is quite surprising considering the modest silhouette of the church. The walls and ceilings are covered with colourful paintings from 1813, while the lavishly gilded altars and sculptures lend the entire interior its unmistakable character. Church of St. Sebastian and Our Lady of the Rosary, Jurgów; \ ; May Sept, Thu 2pm 6pm, Fri 2pm 6pm, Sat 10am 2pm. Sołtys Croft in Jurgów is an example of a farm from the Spis region from the turn of the 19 th and 20 th centuries. Historic shepherds shelter complex on the Podkólne Clearing, 2 km above Jurgowa in the direction of the border. Church of St. Sebastianand Our Lady of the Rosary, photo by J. Gorlach Museum of Zakopane Style Koliba villa, photo by J. Gorlach Zakopane style detail, UMWM photo archive Rabka-Zdrój, Church of St. Mary Magdalene museum The most conspicuous element of this church (built in 1606) is its mighty tower. Added in the middle of the 18 th century, it has an exceptionally large, bulbous dome, which is characteristic for this period. Despite numerous conversions, the church has maintained its original silhouette and remains one of the most precious churches in the Podhale region. Even before World War II, it hosted a museum exposition. The interior is decorated with a beautiful Rococo-Classical polychrome from 1802 and still features furnishings from the 18 th and 19 th centuries. The museum part showcases interesting regional ethnographic collections. Particularly interesting are the items connected with pottery and smithery, which have a long-lasting tradition in Rabka, as well as a huge collection of religious items created by folk artists. Władysław Orkan Museum, ul. Orkana 2, Rabka-Zdrój, \ ; May Aug, daily 9am 5pm, Sept Apr, Mon and Wed-Sun 9am 4pm; 6 PLN, concessions: 4 PLN. Gorce and Beskid Wyspowy, which you can reach by taking a hiking trip from Rabka; recommended climbs: Luboń Wielki and Turbacz. Rolling-Stock Heritage Park in Chabówka with historic locomotives and carriages. Wooden buildings Zakopane, Zakopane style villas Wooden Tatra villas built in the Zakopane style are pearls of architecture. They owe their form to Stanisław Witkiewicz, a painter, a writer and an architect, who, fascinated by highland art, creatively transformed the elements of traditional architecture and adornment, bringing to life the style that today is admired by many. Houses erected in accordance with the aesthetic qualities devised by Witkiewicz are set on high, square stone underpinning and have steep, shingled roofs. Their distinctive features include huge verandas, attics covered with separate roofs and beautiful, opulent wood carving decoration. The first villa erected in accordance with the Zakopane style, the Koliba villa from 1892, presently houses the Museum of Zakopane Style. Other beautiful examples of this style include the Pod Jedlami villa (on Koziniec) and Witkiewiczówka villa (the road towards Antałówka 6). Museum of Zakopane Style in the Koliba villa, ul. Kościeliska 18, Zakopane, \ ; Wed Sat 9am 5pm, Sun 9am 3pm; 7 PLN, concessions 5.5 PLN. Another example of Zakopane style is the beautiful chapel on Jaszczurówka dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus. Erected in the years following Witkiewicz s design, it is marked by a high, granite underpinning and a soaring silhouette. The shingled gable roof with a characteristic, lofty tower features rising sun decorative motifs on the top. The unusually simple interior delights with its rich wood carving decoration. The stained-glass windows of the chancel were made in accordance with Witkiewicz s design, while the wood-carved main altar is stylised to resemble the fronts of highland cottages, also in accordance with Witkiewicz s will. Chapel of the Sacred Heart of Jesus on Jaszczurówka, \ , Zakopane; daily 10am until dusk, except for mass time (5pm). The basement features a gallery of paintings on glass; Jul Sept. Gubałówka mountain, which you can reach by funicular rail, is an ideal vantage point for views of Zakopane with a breathtaking panorama of the Tatras. Morskie Oko the most beautiful mountain lake, which you can easily reach by following an asphalt road. You will also find the oldest Stanisław Staszic Polish Tourist and Sightseeing Society (PTTK) refuge here. Rusinowa Polana located near Jaszczurówka, where you will find a charming wooden chapel of Our Lady of Jaworzyna, the Queen of the Tatras

16 Chochołów, photo by P. Fabijański Chochołów, folk architecture complex One of the most picturesque towns of the Podhale region Chochołów is famous, apart from its location, for its well preserved wooden architecture from the turn of the 18 th and 19 th centuries. The houses, built of flat logs in Podhale style, are arranged closely side by side, with their tops facing the road. Each Easter, local farmers wives scrub the houses using soapy water, which gives the logs their characteristic, bright colour. One of the most beautiful cottages in Chochołów is no. 24. Its front wall was made of a single, huge fir trunk, hence its name the single fir cottage. It is also worth visiting the Regional Chamber, which presents highland folklore. Church in Witów from the 20 th century, located on the Wooden Architecture Route. Wooden houses in Czarny Dunajec, dating back to the 19 th century. Wooden spa buildings in Szczawnica, photo by J. Gorlach Szczawnica, spa buildings This beautifully situated health resort is known not only for its therapeutic waters, but also for its historic wooden architecture. The 19 th century villas and guesthouses preserved in the spa district of the health resort bear resemblance to Swiss style. They usually have two or three storeys, numerous verandas, porches and towers, as well as rich wood carving decoration. The area around Dietl square, by which you can admire the most beautiful spa buildings, is particularly atmospheric. Jaworki and Szlachtowa, villages situated in the Grajcarek river valley, that once belonged to Shlakhtov Ruthenia, whose inhabitants left behind beautiful brick Orthodox churches. The gorges of Biała Woda and Homole (nature reserves) are excellent places for walks. Heritage Park in Zubrzyca Górna, photo by J. Feiglewicz Sucha Beskidzka, Rome tavern (Karczma Rzym) The tavern in Sucha Beskidzka dates back to the 18 th century. According to local tradition, this is where Master Twardowski was abducted by the Devil and taken to the Moon, which was described by Adam Mickiewicz in his ballad Mrs. Twardowska. The magnificent, wooden building is very picturesque. Based on stone underpinning, it has a shingled hip roof with characteristic arcades on the front side. As befits a proper tavern, Rome has its own square, while in the traditionally decorated interior you can taste delicious regional dishes. Rome tavern, Rynek 1, Sucha Beskidzka, \ ; Jul Aug, daily 10am 10pm, Sept Nov, daily 9am 9pm. Renaissance castle in Sucha Beskidzka from the 16 th century, known as the Small Wawel. Small church in Lachowice from 1789, located on the Wooden Architecture Route. Rome tavern, photo by P. Dębski Heritage parks Zubrzyca Górna, Orawa Ethnographic Park The heritage park in Zubrzyca is a place with a soul. Throughout the wide area, which resembles a picturesque landscape park, you can explore a diverse collection of examples of local architecture. The most characteristic buildings are cottages with an extra storey featuring an attic chamber, usually used as a granary. The upper storey is surrounded with a gallery called przedwysce, which can be reached by stairs located outside the building. Other interesting buildings include a smithy, a lumber mill, a fulling mill and an oil mill. There is also a beautiful apiary with interesting types of hives. Most residential buildings house theme exhibitions presenting the daily life in the Orawa region. The magnificent Moniak manor from the turn of the 17 th and 18 th centuries houses an exhibition of 19 th century appliances, furniture and kitchenware. Orawa Ethnographic Park, Zubrzyca Górna, \ ; May Sept, daily 8.30am 5pm, Oct Apr, daily 8.30am 2.30pm; 18 PLN, concessions: 12 PLN, last admission one hour before closing time. Babia Góra is the highest peak of the West Beskids, which you can climb from the Krowiarki Pass. Wooden church in Orawka from the 17 th century located on the Wooden Architecture Route, famous for the beautiful polychrome in its interior