HEBRIDEAN TIMES. Cycling over The Minch. 30th Anniversary Season. Land of Waterways and Windmills ISSUE TWENTY SEVEN WINTER 2017

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1 The ISSUE TWENTY SEVEN WINTER 2017 HEBRIDEAN TIMES Cycling over The Minch Land of Waterways and Windmills 30th Anniversary Season

2 THE HEBRIDEAN TIMES CONTENTS Hebridean Princess News in Brief Meet the Team... 5 Fiona Spriggs, Head Housekeeper View from the Bridge Captain Richard Heaton Celebrating 30 Seasons Scotlands Magical West Coast Richard Baines Cycling over The Minch with Chris Boardman Land of Waterways and Windmills The West Coast of Scotland Jeremy Hawkings Luxury Scotland Monopoly Competition Reflections on Norway Captain Frank Bondø WeLCoMe To The WinTer 2017 edition of The hebridean TiMeS As we complete the last few cruises of what has been another very successful season, we are busy making plans for Hebridean Princess annual refurbishment. We will be replacing the soft furnishings and carpets in a further 12 guest cabins, making a total of 24 cabins renewed in the last 2 years with the remaining 6 to be redecorated in the winter of Our plans also include a complete renovation of a number of bathrooms, where possible we will be fitting separate walk-in shower cubicles in addition to the bathtubs. Many of our crew will soon be returning home for a well-earned rest, whilst our engineers will be hard at work over the winter servicing and undertaking essential maintenance to ensure that everything is shipshape for our first cruise in On behalf of the Captains, Senior Officers, Ship s Company and all our shore-side staff, I should like to wish you a very Merry Christmas and a Happy Hogmanay. Louise Pratt Hebridean Times Editor 2 Cover image: Eilean Donan Castle

3 WINTER 2017 NEWS IN BRIEF boutique CruiSe Line of The year On Monday 18th September 2017, Food and Travel Magazine held its annual Reader Awards ceremony in the elegant surroundings of the Royal Automobile Club, Pall Mall, London. It was a great night for Hebridean Island Cruises as we scooped the accolade of Boutique Cruise Line of the Year. We were up against strong competition, but every vote from the Food and Travel Magazine readers counted and we would like to thank every one of them for casting their vote, helping us to secure this prestigious award. Lisa White (Reservations Manager), Jonathan Moffatt (Sales & Marketing Manager) and Louise Pratt (Sales & Marketing Consultant) ChAriTy Ship ViSiT M A G A Z I N E 2017 READER AWARDS WINNER We are delighted to win this fantastic award at such a respected event - this really does illustrate our commitment to providing the best cruise holidays in a truly unique and elegant way and is testament to our officers, crew and staff both on board and ashore. Ken Charleson, Managing director for hebridean island Cruises Regular guest, John Noorani, may be known to many of you as a very keen photographer, often opting for a quick lunch on deck while the ship is sailing so as not to miss a single shot. John is always happy to share his photographs, many of which have appeared in Hebridean Princess brochures over the years, with other guests. In return, he asks that they give a donation to the International Otter Survival Fund, a charity John has supported from its very beginning in Paul Yokon, John Noorani and Grace Yokon With the charity based on Skye, John arranged for the founders of IOSF, Paul and Grace Yokon, to visit the vessel and have a tour round while she was in Dunvegan in June. Paul is now Head of Operations and Grace a Director of the charity. During the visit Paul and Grace met a number of crew including Captain Richard Heaton and kindly donated a copy of IOSF s Otters of the World book for the ship s library. Eurasian Otter John has managed to raise over 1,000 in this way and we would like to congratulate him on his fund-raising efforts and encourage his fellow guests to purchase some of his wonderful images to support a worthwhile cause. 3

4 THE HEBRIDEAN TIMES NEWS IN BRIEF 25 year SerViCe LiSA WhiTe, reservations MAnAger 2nd October 1992 is firmly etched in my brain my first day at Hebridean Island Cruises. After training as a Chef, gaining my degree in Tourism and working in various hotels, the opportunity arose for a new challenge, although this was a complete change in my career, it was still in the hospitality industry - I jumped at the chance and 25 years later I can honestly say that I have never looked back. In the first few years I worked for Susan and Tony Binns, founders of the Company, whose dreams of a luxury cruise ship sailing the Western Isles came to fruition. I have seen many changes over the years, but one thing that remains the same is the loyalty of our guests. Not one day at Hebridean is the same which makes this a very special company to work for, there will not be many companies like this. Originally from Newcastle upon Tyne with Geordie blood running through my veins, I can now honestly say that I also have Hebridean blood which I cannot get out of my system. best dressed SCAreCroW? We would like to thank Mrs Pamela King for sending in this photograph of her husband s old Hebridean fleece which was purchased on Hebridean Spirit in 2003, on a fabulous journey to St Petersburg, and has been worn constantly ever since. Sadly, the zip on the jacket has recently broken so the old fleece now has a new home, relegated to the scarecrow on their allotment! Mrs King wonders if this is a first for Hebridean? if you have any news you would like to share in The hebridean Times please let us know. We would love to hear from you

5 WINTER 2017 MEET THE TEAM - fiona SpriggS, head housekeeper It is hard to compose an article about oneself. I am just from a normal working class family, born in Chesterfield in Derbyshire. However, I have very strong women in my family, but my inspiration and passion for my housekeeping career has been driven by one man - my father, who has always been a Hotel General Manager leading from the front line. My Mother and Nan always had a family motto hard work never kills you and be passionate about what you do. Well I am. So in short, it was always obvious to me at some stage I would do something in hotels, although I fell into it accidentally. When my then husband was in the Armed Forces and I had my daughter Rebecca (my joy), I needed to work. Working in private housekeeping for senior officers, this quickly developed into working in messes, running the camp areas and the organisation of VIP and Royal visits in liaison with the Military Commanding Officer. When we left the army my hotel life started, working my way quickly from deputy to head housekeeper and, in 2004, having the joy of working alongside my father as his head housekeeper. My career highlights have included gaining a degree level qualification in housekeeping, winning a White Rose Award whilst working at the Leopold Hotel in Sheffield, opening Casa Hotel in my home town of Chesterfield and of course working at the wonderful 5-star Isle of Eriska Hotel outside Oban with Beppo and Seona Buchanan-Smith, who I can t thank enough for making me the head housekeeper I am today. After Eriska I never thought I would find a new work home, nothing seemed to fit until the day the I received a telephone call advising me that Hebridean Island Cruises was seeking a new head housekeeper on board Hebridean Princess. Could I follow such a hard act as (previous housekeeper) Lynn Garth after 17 years? My typical day begins very early polishing the brass, which I love, but after that no two days are the same. One minute I can be looking at the refit list for next year or making beds, whatever it is there is never a dull minute and I work with the best team I have ever worked with. Everyone has been so helpful to a total seagoing novice who thinks portholes are windows and still thinks the galley is a kitchen! It all takes time, says the ever patient Captain Richard Heaton. The job is all about giving our guests the best holiday experience and making things as seamless as possible. What are your favourite ports of call or islands visited by Hebridean Princess? My most favourite port of call this season has to be St Kilda where I stood on the Bridge at 5.30am and was moved to tears of joy at such a mystical place with the mist clearing over the head land, although I didn t feel that way during the crossing (I need to develop my sea legs more next season!). Also the Isle of Harris, what girl doesn t want and need a new Harris Tweed bag or two? What are your most memorable moments on Hebridean Princess? My most memorable moments are easy, meeting all of you, our lovely guests. Of course, our guests on board Hebridean Princess are the best in the world, you are what have made me so very happy and I can t thank you all enough for all the laughter and for making me feel so welcome this season. Thank you. Village Bay, St Kilda

6 THE HEBRIDEAN TIMES VIEW FROM THE BRIDGE by Captain Richard Heaton Captain Richard Heaton, Richard Wilson & Chief Purser David Indge Lysefjord, Norway View from Dun Caan, Raasay Where has the cruising season gone? Setting sail on the Clyde in March seems like only yesterday, yet whilst the time has flown swiftly by, we have certainly covered some nautical miles, and in doing so, met some interesting people on a journey which has taken us to some new and unique places. So, without further ado, I d like to take this opportunity to reflect and share with you my highlights of this year Now, it has to be said that I am no lecturer. Hosting a bridge visit is second nature, but as we prepared to sail out to St Kilda in mid-june something new was on the cards. I spend the best part of my working day looking at weather forecasts, from my first cup of tea in the morning until I turn in at night. I hold the weather in such high regard that I am constantly checking. St Kilda requires special consideration, the archipelago sits exposed in the Atlantic affording little shelter and the passage is susceptible to Atlantic swell. There are a lot of considerations and decision making that goes into such a passage and this time I thought I should try my hand at a short lecture to guests in the Tiree Lounge. Delivering a visual presentation on the big screen in the form of synoptic charts, weather and swell charts, I took time to explain how we interpret these, how we look for a weather window, how we decide on the route and more importantly what sea conditions we can expect. Suffice to say, as we poked the bow of Hebridean Princess into the Atlantic from the Sound of Harris, all was as anticipated and our shorter than normal journey meant that guests awoke at anchor in Village Bay, Hirta. Despite my loving the West Coast of Scotland, this summer we went further afield, taking in some amazing cruising and visits in Norway. For me, it is the first time I have ventured into Lysefjord, but during the final cruise of our Norwegian trilogy, we experienced some of the most idyllic little villages I have ever seen and cruised along some of the most awe-inspiring fjords, sailing close to sheer rock faces as they plummet into the dark depths, hundreds of metres below. It is always enjoyable to berth Hebridean Princess at the numerous small piers and it always brings a smile to my face when we see the local villagers turn out. Initially, their expressions are of wonderment - this majestic ship nestling amongst the picture postcard wooden houses. What then follows is the same everywhere we have cruised in Norway, such a warm and welcoming atmosphere as we set foot ashore into their municipality. Returning to the West Coast on a Footloose walking cruise, I was able to join guests on a fabulous walk on the beautiful Isle of Raasay, climbing to the top of Dun Caan and enjoying panoramic views out over the Isle of Skye. Needless to say, on this occasion, I did not recreate the antics of Boswell by dancing a jig on the top! I had the good fortune to meet and talk with actor Richard Wilson during filming of a documentary programme, then shortly afterwards we enjoyed the company of Nicholas Crane from the television series Coast on our special cruise to celebrate Scotland s Year of History, Heritage and Archaeology

7 WINTER 2017 Sea Stac, St Kilda Hebridean Princess, Lysebotn, Norway Marine life is always a treat as we make our way around the islands and we enjoyed a magnificent spectacle at the end of August. Never before have I seen such a large pod of adult and juvenile bottlenose dolphins. As we heaved anchor in the Sound of Iona, clearly visible beneath the surface, they darted all around us like sleek arrows, breaking the watery silence as they leapt. As we gathered speed, away from our anchorage en-route to Ulva, they remained with us for over half an hour enjoying the rejuvenating effect of the bow wake. Having just completed my Autumn Surprise cruise, I don t think we could have had a finer week. Enjoying such incredibly vibrant colours of the landscape and with favourable weather on our side, we certainly made the most of it - enjoying a well balanced mix of cruising and visits as we made our final sail to the Outer Hebrides this season. Not only was I keen for guests to take in the wonderful scenery, but I also wanted them to enjoy the history and archaeology, to sample spirit made with infusions from the sea, to learn about the Tweed with dyes harvested from the land to see the people, who bring these island communities to life. Alas, all too soon the season is drawing to a close. We will be heading south once more to the Clyde and our home for the winter. We have had a truly exceptional season and I should like to finish on a personal note - amongst our family on board Hebridean Princess we have seen some changes throughout the season. As fellow colleagues move on to pastures new, I am sure you will all join me in wishing them the very best in their future endeavours. As all of us onboard gear up for a busy winter refit in Greenock, I should like to wish you all the best for the Festive Season and we look forward to seeing you in Tarbert, Harris 7

8 THE HEBRIDEAN TIMES CELEBRATING 30 SEASONS OF CRUISING WITH THE ISLANDS OF THE INNER & OUTER HEBRIDES Tuesday 22nd to Tuesday 29th May 2018 Prices from 3,675 per person based on 2 people sharing an inside double/twin cabin HARRIS Tarbert CANNA RUM Kinloch Castle Loch Dunvegan Dunvegan Castle Portree SKYE Tobermory Armadale Clan Donald Centre EIGG Sound of Mull MULL Gairloch Inverewe Garden Plockton Kyle of Lochalsh Eilean Donan Castle OBAN Hebridean Princess is no sleek, modern cruise liner, instead she is a stately lady with traditional lines well in keeping with the rugged environment in which she has operated for over half a century. Until October 1988 she served as one of the life lines to the islands, operating on almost all the services in the Inner and Outer Hebrides as the Caledonia MacBrayne ferry MV Columba. The conversion for her new cruising role, which commenced in 1989, had been very carefully considered. A harmonious blend between preserving a part of the islands transport history and providing the on board creature comforts her new role required had to be achieved. Escape was the original ethos behind a Hebridean Princess holiday and this continues to be the very essence of our cruises today. An escape from the stresses and strains of modern life to the more remote parts of the British Isles where the pace of life is so much more relaxed. An escape from crowds of people and holidays where you are just a number; individuality is a keyword to your Hebridean Princess cruise where, as one of only 50 guests, your fellow passengers will soon be friends and the crew will soon know your name. Superb views, wildlife in its natural habitat, courteous, friendly yet unobtrusive service, chefs preparing a choice of fresh Scottish produce, fascinating shore visits including castles and gardens, private fishing trips and speedboat rides have been at the core of every Hebridean Princess cruise for the last 29 seasons. She remains the most elegant way to experience the dramatic natural beauty of the Highlands and Islands of Scotland. In celebration of our 30th anniversary season, we are replicating this delightful cruise which was first operated in our maiden season of With visits to six different islands, a passage to the Outer Hebrides and a visit to the world famous tropical garden at Inverewe this is a voyage which offers a truly memorable Escape. Hebridean Princess prepares to leave oban on her maiden voyage Hebridean Princess at Kyle of Lochalsh, May 29th Hebridean Princess brochure from 1989

9 WINTER 2017 HEBRIDEAN PRINCESS ThirTy years CheerS A nice glass of whisky with one cube of ice And a portion of haggis would also be nice Such pleasures enhance this marvellous trip On this our most excellent wee Scottish ship So here s to our Captain and his noble Crew Our wonderful chefs just cooking for you Preparers of dishes and bakers of breads Cleaners of cabins and makers of beds Here s to our Purser and Chief Engineer And blokes on the bridge who know how to steer And men on the deck we call seamen able And those lovely people who wait at our table Ensuring our comfort as we sit to dine And ever attentive at pouring the wine This ship s been cruising for thirty great years A Princess deserving of three hearty cheers So one for our Captain one for his Crew And might I suggest the third one for you! Graham Clarke 2017 graham Clarke will accompany the isles of Scilly and Celtic Coasts cruise commencing 10th July 2018 as guest speaker and kindly penned this verse in celebration of our 30th anniversary season 9

10 THE HEBRIDEAN TIMES SCOTLAND S MAGICAL WEST COAST by Richard A. Baines of Logan Botanic Garden richard baines with gardener s World presenter Carol Klein There are few horticultural spectacles that can compete with the beauty and splendour of gardens along the West Coast of Scotland in early Summer. gardens along the western seaboard are famous for their impressive displays of himalayan plants such as rhododendrons, Magnolias, blue poppies and Camellias and May will be the ideal period for viewing them at their very best. Most of the gardens are located very close to the coast and have idyllic views across the western seaboard. This has the advantage of not being hit by late frosts and also having an earlier growing season than gardens inland. inverewe in Wester ross has a wonderful collection of tender rhododendrons such as rhododendron edgeworthii and some magnificent Asiatic Magnolias such as Magnolia rhododendron wilsonii with its pure white petals and clusters of red stamens. The view from the walled garden across Loch ewe is to die for! Spring fragrance is an integral part of visiting Attadale gardens which have numerous specimens of the yellow Azalea, rhododendron luteum. it also has an oriental garden from Japan plus a sunken fern garden. dundonnell estate garden hosts a fine collection of Camellias, Magnolias and rhododendrons and has an impressive laburnum walk in this ancient walled garden. exciting planting in new borders provides all year colour centred around one of the oldest yew trees in Scotland. durnamuck garden situated on the edge of Loch broom with stunning views is a real plantsman s garden. With a rich mix of herbaceous borders, trees and shrubs, Mediterranean plants and plants originating from South African one will observe plants that are seldom seen in the u.k. dunvegan Castle and gardens has over five acres of formal gardens which will be at their prime in mid - May. included in the garden is a water garden with its ornate bridges and islands complemented by its rich plant collection. The castle s former vegetable garden is now elegantly landscaped and houses a diverse range of plants and features such as a glasshouse, garden museum, pond and larch pergola. A lot of restoration work has been carried out in the last thirty years to restore the garden. Lip na Cloiche garden is beautifully situated close to the shoreline on the isle of Mull, and has stunning views of Loch Tuath and the isle of ulva. for the avant collector you will be delighted to hear that the garden has an unusual range of plants for sale! one of Scotland s national treasures are its castles. glengorm Castle is an impressive 19th century country house commanding fine views across the surrounding landscapes. Many of the gardens that we will visit have developed as a result of personal passion for plants and hard work and Ard daraich garden is no exception. here a rock garden has been created on a granite hillside creating small pockets in the thin peat layer for planting. Scottish gardens host some of the finest displays of himalayan blue poppies on the planet and this will be the ideal time of year to view them at Ardtornish estate gardens. Why not take this opportunity to view some of Scotland s finest gardens in the comfort and homeliness of this fabulous cruise ship. himalayan blue poppy SECRET GARDENS OF THE WESTERN SEABOARD Tuesday 15th to Tuesday 22nd May 2018 Prices from 3,540 per person based on 2 people sharing an inside double/twin cabin Richard Baines will accompany this cruise as guest speaker

11 WINTER 2017 CYCLING OVER THE MINCH WITH CHRIS BOARDMAN Island hopping through the Hebrides by bike is a magical and varied experience. From the white shell sands of Tiree, Eriskay and Harris, to the majestic mountains of the Cuillins and the awe-inspiring scenery of the Trotternish Peninsula on Skye, the islands each have a unique atmosphere. The thrill of travelling by bicycle under your own steam heightens the physical senses and the spirit of adventure. The remoteness of these islands, sparsely populated and some traffic-free, means that cycling in the hebrides offers tranquillity in the fresh air of unspoilt landscapes. on Coll we use the island s limited roads for a circular route which starts and finishes in the main village of Arinagour, whilst its relatively flat and fertile neighbour of Tiree makes an idyllic island for cycling as you gently roll along the roads which run behind the many sandy bays and take in distant views of other islands in every direction. A linear ride on barra allows us to observe the white shell sands and rugged inland scenery en route to eriskay and the beach where bonnie princes Charlie first stepped onto british soil. on our full day tour of The uists we discover these islands of contrasts; the soft, undulating landscapes of South uist are a world apart from the low-lying birdhaven of north uist, scattered with green-blue lochans. CYCLING OVER THE MINCH Tuesday 9th to Tuesday 16th October 2018 Prices from 3,240 per person based on 2 people sharing an inside double/twin cabin Chris boardman took britain's opening gold medal at the 1992 barcelona olympics, britain's first cycling gold in 72 years. he then went on to lead the r&d team for gb Cycling in the run up to beijing, where they became the most successful british sporting team of all time. between barcelona and beijing, Chris won three stages of the Tour de france, set numerous world records (several of which still stand) and became arguably britain's most successful cyclist to date. our final ride in the outer isles takes us from harris, through traditional crofting and weaving communities, to its flatter and more fertile neighbour of Lewis. After sailing back across The Minch, we arrive at the isle of Skye where we enjoy an invigorating pedal through the stunning yet bizarre rock formations of The quiraing on the Trotternish peninsula, before re-joining the ship in the island s capital, portree. A linear ride on raasay affords fine views in each direction, including a magnificent panorama of the Cuillins on Skye. before a relaxing sail of the Small isles, we set out from Armadale to explore the Sleat peninsula, often referred to as the garden of Skye where heather-clad mountains drop dramatically to the rocky shorelines and glittering blue sea, punctuated with lush gardens and dense forests. We are delighted that this cruise will not only be accompanied by an experienced cycling guide, but also by olympic cyclist Chris boardman. you do not need to be an expert to enjoy the thrill of cycling through these stunning islands. The rides are on roads and the majority are gently undulating, with the exception of one steep incline for approximately a mile. distances will vary from approximately 11 miles up to a maximum of 42 miles for the full day route on The uists. bicycles are provided on board or you are more than welcome to bring your own. each day you have the option to join the rides or to enjoy a less energetic visit, the choice is yours. 11

12 THE HEBRIDEAN TIMES LAND OF WATERWAYS AND WINDMILLS on board Royal Crown dutch Clogs Zaanse Schans open Air Museum Amsterdam This captivating cruise explores the history, heritage and art of The Netherlands with a variety of intriguing visits along the scenic Dutch waterways. After uncovering a hidden gem right in the heart of the capital Amsterdam, the Hortus Botanicus, we sail through some of the smaller and lesser visited canals and rivers to discover more secrets of this fascinating landscape. The magnificent Royal Palace is located on the Dam Square in Amsterdam. It is one of the three palaces still used by the Royal Family. The 350 year old building was originally the City Hall of Amsterdam. In 1808 it was transformed into a palace by King Louis Napoleon Bonaparte and it has remained so ever since. Our guided tour will allow us to discover the rich history of the palace, which was once the largest secular building in Europe, and to admire the marble floors, magnificent paintings, delicate sculptures and gigantic chandeliers of its opulent interior*. Amsterdam has one of the oldest botanical gardens in the world, the Hortus Botanicus. It was established in 1638 by the city municipality as Hortus Medicus, a herb garden with medical plants for Amsterdam doctors and pharmacists. In the second half of the 17th century, the Amsterdam Hortus Botanicus garden had a rich collection of plants completely unknown in Europe. They were brought here from all over the world by the traders of the Dutch East India Company. Today, Hortus Botanicus is an attractive oasis, with more than 6,000 different plants with some unique species. The new hothouse creates conditions for three different tropical climates. We take a glass-topped canal boat to the gardens for a peaceful and relaxing visit and enjoy an exclusive afternoon tea in the recently renovated Orangery. After sailing through what Royal Crown Captain Hans de Gelder describes as a very beautiful area of his beloved home nation, we arrive at the fortified town of Naarden. An example of a Spanish Star Fort, it is one of the best preserved fortified towns in Europe, complete with fortified walls and a moat. Naarden was one of the most important defence works of the New Dutch Waterline and is breathtaking. At the Fortress Museum we can observe the underground casemates and learn more about the fortressed garrison town. A stroll through the town will allow you to observe many historical buildings and monuments, such as the St. Vitus Church, a large gothic basilica from the 14th and 15th centuries. Holland and water are inextricably linked. Behind its coast lies an intricate network of ditches, waterways, canals, lakes and rivers. The nations windmills, pumping stations, polders and dykes are world-famous and almost a third of the land lies below sea level. Without the large water engineering works of the past centuries, culminating in the Delta Works, half of Holland would be submerged. The Woudagemaal in Lemmer is the largest steampowered pumping station ever constructed and the only steam-powered pumping station in the world that is still in use. In a beautiful building, inspired by the Amsterdam School style, The Woudagemaal was built in 1920 to pump away the excess water in Friesland. Until that time, large parts of the region were submerged during the winter. The pumping station, which can pump away over 4000 cubic meters of water per minute, or 6 million cubic meters per day, changed that. Weerribben-Wieden is a cultural landscape that was created in the 14th century through peat cutting. This peat was highly valuable as a fuel when dried, and was cut from the areas known as weren. The peat was then laid out to dry on long strips of lands, known as ribben, thus creating these unique wetlands. The best way to explore the Weerribben-Wieden National Park is on the water. We take a boat tour through this gorgeous area, known as the Venice of Holland, where we hope to see many kinds of waterfowl and insects, and maybe even spot an otter among the vegetation in the water and on the banks. In the 17th century, Enkhuizen was one of the wealthiest cities of Holland. It gained power and influence as a member of the Dutch East India Company. Enkhuizen s rich history is still noticeable today as you walk through the old inner city with its numerous state mansions, canals, churches, city walls and harbours

13 haarlem fortified Town of naarden Cheese Market, Alkmaar Following our walking tour of Enkhuisen we travel back in time to see how people lived centuries ago at the open-air Zuiderzee Museum which depicts a typical Dutch town and everyday life from the period between 1700 and People dressed in traditional Dutch clothing help bring the past in this little town to life. The museum is housed in more than a hundred and thirty authentic houses, shops and workshops, illustrating the history and culture of this unique region. Alkmaar is known as the city of cheese in Holland, but has many other attractions including a beautiful old centre with many historic monuments and a range of interesting museums. Like many old cities in Holland, Alkmaar is a real canal town. In the past these canals were used as waterways, as a sewer system and to defend the city, but today they are mainly decorative. The Alkmaar Cheese Market is a fascinating spectacle. This colourful, folkloric spectacle takes place at the picturesque Waagplein and here you can discover how cheese is traded according to a tradition that began in The 'kaasdragers' (cheese porters), 'zetters' (loaders), 'ingooiers' (cheese tossers) and 'waagmeesters' (weighers) all play defining roles at the market and belong to a guild with many traditions. The area around IJsselmeer lake is dotted with beautiful old Dutch villages and towns. Together, they form one of the most gorgeous and authentic parts of Holland. Hoorn s heyday was in the 17th century, when it was one of the main cities of the Dutch East India Company. Like Amsterdam and Enkhuizen, Hoorn became a very wealthy city. A walking tour of the old quarter and harbour will uncover dozens of monuments and churches which will allow you to experience the atmosphere of those historic times. With its many historic buildings and beautiful old squares, Haarlem lies near the beach on the banks of the Spaarne river. Narrow streets are lined with monumental buildings built by the master Lieven de Key. The Frans Hals Museum in Haarlem has many artworks of masters from the 16th and 17th century and is home to the world s biggest Frans Hals collection. Counted among the greatest of the Dutch masters, Frans Hals became known as the best portrait painter in the country. Great masters of impressionism, like Monet, Corbet and Manet, visited the Frans Hals Museum to admire his art. During the 17th century, more than 600 windmills were constructed in the area around the Zaanse Schans, creating the first industrial zone. The windmills were used, among others, to grind spices, produce paint, saw wood, and make oil. A number of these windmills still exist and can be visited to discover how these wind-powered machines work, inside and out. There are various museums you can visit at the Zaanse Schans to get an accurate impression of life in Holland in the 17th and 18th centuries including authentic wooden houses, a bakery museum, a chocolate factory, a cheese and dairy factory and a warehouse where clogs are still made today. We hope you can join the Hebridean River Cruises team, including host David Indge, on this enchanting voyage which will reveal many of Holland s hidden treasures. LAND OF WATERWAYS AND WINDMILLS 20th May to 27th May 2018 Prices from 2,835 per person based on 2 people sharing a deluxe twin cabin * The Royal Palace Amsterdam is placed at the King's disposal and in active use by the Dutch Royal House. Should the palace not be closed for a royal event, our guided tour will allow us to discover the rich history and interior of this magnificent building. 13

14 THE HEBRIDEAN TIMES THE WEST COAST OF SCOTLAND by Jeremy Hawkings Chief Executive of Luxury Scotland Ever since my first visit to Scotland, many years ago, the west coast has been a firm favourite, so much so, that for a while I made it my home. In the south, the Mull of Kintyre provides excellent sailing for small yachts in and around Tarbert and Crinan. I have also sailed, as a guest, on a Dutch submarine, fully submerged in Loch Fyne, Scotland s second biggest sea loch, while they fired test torpedoes. Just north of Crinan you will find Loch Awe, one of the prettiest lochs in Scotland, with excellent trout fishing. The waters of the loch are sprinkled with several picturesque islands complete with their own ruined castle. For those interested in history, this part of Scotland known as Dalriada was a Gaelic kingdom founded in the 5th century, of which the hill fort of Dunadd was believed to be its capital. Near to the little village of Kilmartin, there are 350 examples of cairns, standing stones, stone circles, forts and castles. Kilmartin Glen has many examples of Neolithic and Bronze Age remnants. It is also where the rhododendron was introduced to the western hemisphere by Joseph Dalton Hooker in To the west you will find the Island of Seil and the little bridge which links Seil to the mainland is affectionately known as The Bridge over the Atlantic. From North Cuan, on the southerly tip of Seil island you can take a three-minute ferry ride to the pretty island of Luing with its traditional whitewashed cottages and abundant wildlife. Further north, The Ardnamurchan Peninsula is the most westerly point of the Scottish mainland. It is wild and remote with some impressive private houses. Knoydart is even more remote and without roads, so access is on foot or by boat. The spectacular and rugged landscape never fails to impress those who are prepared to make the journey. Luxury Scotland, the marketing group of 31 of the finest, luxury hotels in Scotland which celebrated its 25th anniversary this year, has ten of its members on the west coast of Scotland. Knockinaam Lodge in the south has strong literary connections. Crinan Hotel is in the little fishing village at the end of the Crinan Canal which was often visited by the puffer Para Handy. Hebridean Princess is based in the port of Oban and very nearby Airds Hotel and Restaurant and Glencoe House offer luxurious accommodation. Inverlochy Castle at Fort William was recently voted to be the finest hotel in Europe. On the island of Skye, you will find Kinloch Lodge and on the Isle of Lewis is Lews Castle which offers indulgent selfcatering accommodation. The Torridon, near the little village of Shieldaig, one of the visiting places of Hebridean Princess, offers a myriad of outdoor activities and an hour away you will find out most northerly outpost, Inver Lodge Hotel. Near Inver Lodge is Handa Island, a bird reserve maintained by The Scottish Wildlife Trust where each summer some 100,000 guillemots, razorbills and great skuas come to breed. Access to the island is by a rib and once you have convened with the wildlife you can have a good seafood lunch in the pier-side restaurant. So, wherever you are on the west coast of Scotland, afloat in the sublime luxury of Hebridean Princess, or on land, you will find plenty to see and do. Enjoy this winter and dream of where you will travel in the New Year

15 LUXURY SCOTLAND MONOPOLY COMPETITION To celebrate their 25th Anniversary, Luxury Scotland has released a new limited-edition version of Monopoly featuring all of the consortium s 31 member properties including Donald Trump s Turnberry golf course, Andy Murray s Cromlix Hotel and, of course, Hebridean Princess. The Luxury Scotland edition of Monopoly will give players the chance to tour Scotland for the hottest hotel properties, buy them, develop them and watch their investments shoot up in value. The game will not be going on general sale to the public but around 1,000 copies will be distributed to the featured properties and is available to purchase on board Hebridean Princess. for your chance to win one of 3 copies of this exclusive game, please answer the following questions: 1. Which Luxury Scotland property was the setting for John Buchan s book, The 39 Steps? 2. Which Queen stayed at Inverlochy Castle in 1873 and wrote in her diary I never saw a lovelier or more romantic spot? please send your answers, together with your name and address by to louise.pratt@hebridean.co.uk by Wednesday 31st January Three lucky winners will be randomly selected from all the correct entries. CROSSWORD COMPETITION in ISSUE 26 We had an overwhelming response to the crossword competition in the last issue and congratulations to everyone who correctly deduced that the Scottish soup was Cock-a-Leekie. The lucky winner of a luxury Scottish hamper was Professor Angela Noble of Montrose. Please note addresses may be used for marketing purposes. If you prefer not to receive communications from Hebridean Island Cruises please state this in your entry. 15

16 REFLECTIONS ON NORWAY frank bondø was born and raised in norway on the small island of rørvik, just south of the arctic circle. As the son of a fisherman he got to train his sealegs at an early age. from the age of 3, he went to sea with his father whenever possible and became determined to make a career at sea. frank joined the navy and trained for 4 years at the norwegian naval Academy in bergen, subsequently serving on fast patrol boats as Chief officer, Captain and finally as a Squadron Commander. being the Captain of one ship, and in tactical control of 6 capable military ships was the ultimate challenge for a navy officer at the age of 36. frank was invited to apply for the position as the Captain of the norwegian royal yacht norge at the age of 39. from 1996, he served as the Kings Captain for 19 years until his retirement SAILING THE NORWEGIAN FJORDS ON BOARD HEBRIDEAN PRINCESS by Captain Frank Bondø doreen Thomson, f&b Manager and Captain frank bondø I joined Hebridean Princess in Invergordon on 19th July, as a Pilot, feeling excited but with a few butterflies running around! However, I was welcomed by Captain Trevor Bailey and his crew, and soon felt at home. A few guests joined the ship for the crossing to Norway and the main party of guests joined in Sandnes. Hebridean Princess completed 3 cruises in Norwegian waters; the first taking us from Sandnes/Stavanger and up to Bergen, via the Hardangerfjord area; the second up to Ålesund and Geiranger fjord before returning to Bergen; the final itinerary via Hardangerfjord and Ryfylkefjord to Stavanger/Sandnes. Although I have sailed for more than 40 years on the Norwegian coast, I was delighted to visit some places I have never been on board Hebridean Princess, I did not think that could be possible! I soon learned the philosophy of Hebridean Island Cruises - focusing on giving the guests a unique experience. We very rarely saw the big cruise ships and we did not visit touristified places where our guests had to queue with hundreds of other tourists. No, we came to places where our guests were given the flexibility to choose their activities, and if they wanted to do so, go for a stroll on their own, being on their own, just surrounded by amazing fjords and mountains. Some of the fjords we visited, like the Lysefjord (east of Stavanger) and the Fyksesund (in Hardangerfjord) are very narrow and the mountains are diving into the deep fjords. Sometimes we were sailing just 10 meters away from the mountain and still having nearly a 100 meters under our keel. I can assure you, this makes the heart beat faster for the Captain and the navigator, but also for the passengers. Some were thinking we were going blueberry picking, and it was quite close to being possible! Hebridean Island Cruises have established a tradition where the Captains join the gala dinners at the beginning and at the end of each cruise. I had the pleasure of taking part in these gala dinners several times, and I must admit I enjoyed them very much. The food was delicious, served by a professional crew. The atmosphere around the table, the conversation and all the interesting guests, I loved it! During my career, I have only sailed on ships with a military crew. A cruise ship was a totally new experience for me. I was impressed by both Captains, Trevor and Richard,- how they handled their ship and their crew, always focusing on the guests and their wellbeing. I enjoyed the friendly atmosphere within the crew, amongst the guests and between the crew and our guests. The guests seemed to feel at home, many knew each other and I realised quite a few are regulars, coming back year after year, and some doing several cruises every year. After only 4 weeks on the ship, I do understand why. I want to thank Hebridean Island Cruises for giving me this unique experience, sailing with you in Norwegian waters. Sailing close to cliffs in Lysefjord Hebridean Island Cruises Ltd, Kintail House Carleton New Road, Skipton, BD23 2DE reservations@hebridean.co.uk web: tel: Find us on: