History Festival 6 May 2014

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1 Treasures of the Torrens Popeye Tour History Festival 6 May 2014 North Terrace and River Coloured Lithograph by J Hitchin from an original painting by E A Opie (B7070) State Library of South Australia Welcome from the Adelaide City Council Park Lands Strategy team 1

2 Contents 1. Introduction 2. The Popeye 3. Adelaide Festival Centre 4. Talking Our Way Home 5. Stockyards (formerly near the Newmarket Hotel) 6. WYE Signal Station 7. Torrens Weir 8. Pirltawardli Kaurna site 10. Angas Gardens 11. PAC Boatshed 12. Albert Bridge 13. Zoo 14. Grundy Gardens 15. University Footbridge 16. Water Police Station 17. Adelaide Bridge 18. Elder Park Rotunda 9. Pinky Flat 2

3 Introduction Adelaide's Park Lands are the City's defining feature and greatest asset. The encircling sea of Park Lands creates a sense of grace and spaciousness sought by the City's 1800s architect Colonel William Light. His plan for a series of parks to accommodate the "healthful recreation" of the City's aspiring citizens is as relevant today as ever. The 760ha of green open space provides a rich social, environmental and recreational resource with opportunities for everyone - walking trails, cycle tracks, picnic areas, bird watching or secluded spots to watch the world go by. One of the most important features of the Park Lands is the River Torrens and it is here that we start our tour today. The Aboriginal name for this river is Karrawirra Pari, meaning red gum forest river. With European settlement it was renamed after Robert Torrens, a member of British Parliament at the time of settlement and the Chairman of the South Australian Colonisation Commission. 3 Sketch of the Old ford through the River Torrens at Adelaide (c. 1858) by Eugène von GUÉRARD. Viewed from the present position of King William Road with the Adelaide Gaol in the background and depicting a landscape devoid of mature vegetation, courtesy of the National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne, Felton Bequest, 1960

4 The Popeye The pleasure-vessel business of Jolleys and its Popeye boats was originally established by George Jolley and his family soon after the opening of the lake. When George died in 1896, his wife Suzanne and their sons, Ernest and Frank, continued the business. Suzanne passed away in 1913, and the business was left to their sons. In 1914, fire destroyed the boat premises within a half an hour. Four months after the blaze the premises were rebuilt and by 1933 they had 41 boats for hire on the lake. In 1910 Ernest was awarded the Royal Humane Society certificate for his rescue of five drowning people. He had rescued dozens of people over the years. Apparently not all those saved were grateful. On one occasion Ernest rescued a woman from drowning and looked after her dog while she was rushed to hospital. Her husband came to pick up the dog later that day and promised to send via post a reward of 2 for his care of the dog. The reward never came and there was never any mention of saving the life of his wife After Frank died in 1937 and Ernest in 1947, it was Ernest s son who kept the family business going until 1971 when it was sold to Keith Altmann. The business again changed hands recently to Tony Shuman. Despite the changes of ownership the Jolleys name has been retained and also the name of the river cruisers Popeye. 4

5 The Lounders boatshed where Popeye was based, is a simple corrugated iron structure with its distinctive gable and finial. Constructed in the 1910s, the building has social significance associated with its use for the Popeye

6 Adelaide Festival Centre State Heritage Place King William Road Designed by John Morphett of Hassell & Partners and opened in 1973, the Festival Centre was the first multipurpose arts centre in Australia and set the tone for Adelaide as a dominant centre for the arts in Australia. It was opened 3 months before the Sydney Opera House, but the similarities are obvious. The Festival Centre comprises 3 white geometric domes and a plaza, originally designed to conceal the air conditioning vents. The main building, being the Festival Theatre, was built within budget of $10M in contrast to the Sydney Opera House, with a cost of $102M. The Liberal Premier Steele Hall first recognised the need for improved arts facilities in the State and identified the slopes of the Torrens as an ideal position. The Lord Mayor of Adelaide, Robert Porter, supported by the Labor Premier Don Dunstan, launched a public appeal to raise funds for construction. The public must have also recognised the need for an arts centre as the appeal met its target within a week. 6

7 The Adelaide Festival was first held in 1960 and it promoted Adelaide as a great centre for the arts. The Festival Centre was a key to the ongoing success of the Festival which is centered around this site. The Festival continues as a biennial event for which Adelaide is renowned internationally. The Festival Theatre is renowned for its high quality acoustics and the Centre continues to host many high profile events which visit Adelaide. 7

8 Talking Our Way Home Torrens River / Karrawirra Pari The artwork is by one of Adelaide's most critically acclaimed artists and Samstag Scholar, Shaun Kirby. Mr Kirby immigrated with his family to Adelaide by ship from the UK in the mid-1960s and spent a short time at the then Elder Park Migrant Hostel in the vicinity of where the glass boats are placed. The artworks quite literally 'float on the margin between the intimate and secret dimension of private experience, and its expression in the public realm'. The work engages with significant social and cultural issues in a poetic and playful way, without being an overbearing or pedantic presence in the landscape. 8

9 Stockyards (formerly opposite the Newmarket Hotel) From the 1880s, a sheep and cattle market grew on the site opposite the Newmarket Hotel, in conjunction with a similar facility which operated alongside the slaughterhouse in what is now Bonython Park. The sheep and cattle were often driven along the western edge of the western Park Lands into the yards. By 1912, with the opening of the Gepps Cross Yards, the markets opposite the Newmarket Hotel were closed and the land given over to rail yards. 9

10 WYE Signal Station State Heritage Place A wye or triangular junction, in rail terminology, is a triangular-shaped arrangement of rail tracks with a switch or set of points at each corner. In mainline railroads, this can be used at a rail junction, where two rail lines join, in order to allow trains to pass from one line to the other line. At the time of opening in 1915, the signal box was the first and in its time the largest power installation in South Australia, with previous signal boxes being mechanically controlled. The all-electric power frame was supplied by the General Railway Signal Co. of Rochester, New York. This controlled the American-style three position semaphore speed signaling levers. 10

11 Torrens Weir State Heritage Place War Memorial Drive Damming the River Torrens to create a lake was an obvious solution to ensure that it remained full of water for aquatic and recreational purposes. The first attempt was in 1867 when the Sherriff of the Adelaide Goal used prison labour to build a wooden damn. It was destroyed by floods in Mayor Edwin Smith is credited with the vision that eventually became reality. Construction of a simple concrete weir began in 1880, and the Torrens Weir was officially opened on 21 July 1881 almost the entire population of the City was present. This was one of the first uses of concrete in a civil engineering project in Australia: the cement was imported from England and the aggregate came from Aldgate. In 1889, a serious flood overwhelmed the new weir and jammed its gates. In 1917, the City Engineer, Joseph Richardson, prepared plans to replace the centre section of the weir with two flood gates which could regulate an overflow of two metres and be fully raised to allow the river to run unimpeded. The weir was reopened in 1929 and still operates today. 11

12 Pirltawardli Kaurna site War Memorial Drive Between 1838 and 1845, on what is now the Par-3 Golf Course (opposite the restaurant adjacent the weir), there existed what was referred to as the Native Location or Aborigines Location. The location was called Pirltawardli in the Kaurna language, which loosely translates as possum place. The Native Location was intended by the colonial government to concentrate local aborigines in one place and provide them with an education. This location has strong cultural values to today s Kaurna community. Over time, the location grew to include a school, stores and various housing sheds. The first Colonial Store was erected on the upper reaches of the present Golf Course where European food and manufactured goods were sold and where Kaurna and European offenders were executed by hanging in the 1840s. Extract from the Kingston Map, 1842, showing the Aborigines Location in relation to the Iron Store and Gaol. The Native Location was operated by Lutheran Missionaries, Teichelmann and Schurmann, who did a commendable job of recording the Kaurna language. During the development of the 12

13 Par-3 Golf Course evidence of bones and building materials were uncovered. Renovations to the ground surface of the golf course have disguised the site of the Store. As part of the Adelaide City Council s commitment to reconciliation with Aboriginal communities, places within the City have been given Kaurna names. Park 1, The Golf Course, is known as Pirltawardli. The school room of the Aborigines at the Native Location, Watercolour by W. A. Cawthorne (Mitchell Library). 13

14 Pinky Flat War Memorial Drive The area now known as Pinky Flat was an important camping site for Kaurna people. You can see an image of an Aboriginal camp along the river on one of the bronze plaques on the Adelaide Bridge. Pinky Flat was also used as a camping place for homeless people during the Great Depression of the 1930s. The name Pinky Flat is possibly derived from Pingko which means a small animal which we know as a bilby. This image from Alexander Scramm s 1850 painting entitled Adelaide, a tribe of natives on the bank of the river Torrens - courtesy National Gallery of Australia. 14

15 Pinky Flat was renovated in 1953 by Adelaide City Council to beautify the area for picnics but also to enable it to be used for parking of up to 660 cars during sporting events. This practice has now been reduced. Angas Gardens War Memorial Drive State Heritage Place The centerpiece of Angas Gardens is the Angas Memorial, built in memory of pioneers and pastoralists George Fife and John Harris Angas. Overseen by George Soward, the sculptor William Robert Colton designed the canopy and bronzes. Erected originally in 1915 on North Terrace, it was relocated to Angas Gardens in These Gardens are now also complemented by the statue of Simpson and his Donkey which commemorates John Simpson Kirkpatrick, an unlikely figure who became a national hero. Having deserted from the merchant navy in 1910, he tramped around Australia and worked in a variety of jobs. He enlisted in the AIF, expecting this would give him the chance to get 15

16 back to England; instead, Private Simpson found himself at ANZAC Cove on 25 April 1915, and was killed less than four weeks later. Famously, he used a small donkey to carry men down from the front line, often exposing himself to fire. The bravery of this "man with the donkey" soon became the most prominent symbol of Australian courage and tenacity on Gallipoli. Today his statue takes pride of place in Angas Gardens near the popular intersection of King William Rd and Sir Edwin Smith Avenue. 16

17 PAC Boatshed War Memorial Drive Erected for the Prince Alfred College and the Old Collegians Association of the University of Adelaide, the boatshed was erected using funds donated by rower HWA Miller. It was opened by the Headmaster W R Bayley in December Due to extensive white ant damage, the building had to be substantially rebuilt a few years ago and is now shared by Seymour College. 17

18 Albert Bridge Frome Road State Heritage Place The original bridge on this site was destroyed by flood and in 1871 a new crossing was planned upstream. The construction of this substantial structure greatly improved communication and transportation of goods between northern and southern Adelaide. Before the opening of this bridge, most traffic used the City Bridge in King William Road but this was identified as being inadequate by the 1870s. The Albert Bridge was designed by Henry Worsley together with John Grainger who was the father of the great composer Percy Grainger. Grainger was born in London but lived in Adelaide where he practised as an architect and civil engineer. He later moved to Melbourne where he designed the Princes Bridge as well as notable buildings in Western Australia such as the Perth law Court, Houses of Parliament and the 18

19 Coolgardie Town Hall. He also designed the Ambassadors Hotel in King William Street. Opened in 1879, the bridge was constructed from iron brought over from the UK but constructed here under supervision of the City Surveyor J H Langdon. The foundation stone was laid by Mayor Henry Scott. The bridge has a span of 120 feet broken into two spans of 30 feet and a central span of 60 feet. In 1933 the timber decking was replaced with reinforced concrete which was again replaced in the 1980s. In 2000 guard rails and improved lighting were added to improve safety while retaining its gracious features. 19

20 Adelaide Zoo State Heritage Places within A zoo was first started in the Botanic Gardens in 1858 by the director G W Francis. It was not promoted at that time and did not open formally until 1883 at a time when there was a great resurgence of interest in natural history. Zoos at the time tended to be modelled on Regents Park Zoo in London. The first zoo director R E Minchin and his son A C Minchin established the first proper zoo and many of the important buildings date to its early days. Run by the Royal Zoological Society of SA, the government granted 16 acres of land to the Zoo on land obtained from the Botanic Gardens. The second oldest zoo in the country, Adelaide Zoo is unique in having retained so much of its early history and many of its significant early structures still survive. While not visible from the River, the significant structures include: 20

21 the entrance gates and walling (now no longer the main entrance), and head zookeepers residence, both erected in 1882 the central rotunda on the main lawn constructed in 1884 as a result of a donation from Sir Thomas Elder who was then the president of the Zoological Society the director s residence dating from 1887 the monkey house erected in 1891 now used as the kiosk and the Elephant House built in 1900 and now used as an interpretative centre about the elephants formerly housed here. Reflecting a Victorian approach to housing zoo animals, that is in a building reflecting the animals; country of origin, the Indian style temple is unique in South Australia. The back of the Zoo visible here is the storage and feeding areas. 21

22 Grundy Gardens War Memorial Drive Grundy Gardens is the distinctively landscaped banks of the Torrens between Albert Bridge and Adelaide Bridge. The Gardens main feature is the dry stone walling which provides paths and takes advantage of the topography of the site along the edge of the River Torrens. Designed by Stanley Orchard, the Council s Curator of Parks and Gardens from 1933, the Gardens are based upon existing trees and pathway systems already established by Pelzer, City Gardener. The 1930s style garden took advantage of the construction of the Adelaide Bridge and the University Footbridge at the same time. Grundy Gardens was named after Councillor and Alderman Ton Hadfield in recognition of 34 years of service to the Council.?? Grundy Gardens c

23 Also part of Grundy Gardens was the McEwin Arboretum on the northern banks near the University Footbridge. In 1921, Councillor George McEwin submitted a proposal for the development of an arboretum along the river, to be planted with trees of economic value and the trees should be catalogued and labelled. Council adopted the proposal but it wasn t commenced until

24 University Footbridge War Memorial Drive State Heritage Place Described as a 'brave' design this bridge is reputed to be the first welded steel bridge in South Australia. A bridge east of the Adelaide Bridge was built in 1842, close to the site of this footbridge called the Frome Bridge. It was destroyed by flood in February 1855 and this bridge was later replaced by a ford and then a footbridge. The University footbridge was designed by the South Australian railways department for the University of Adelaide. Designed in 1928, construction of the bridge was delayed by the depression until The Adelaide City Council expressed concerns about the need for a bridge in this location because of the sensitive location. The bridge was part-funded by the Misses Waite the prominent South Australian family whose philanthropy led to the establishment of the Waite Agricultural Research Institute. Adelaide City Council funded the remainder of the bridge as part of its contribution to the centenary of South Australia. The bridge features balanced cantilever construction and 24

25 consists of two identical halves which pivot on two twin bearings with concrete counterweights which meet at the centre. Constructed by L Grove & Sons of Highgate, the internal arch span is 152 feet. Its design features delicate cast iron balustrading with integrated lamp standards Prosh Day Prank 25

26 Water Police Station War Memorial Drive State Heritage Place Built in 1928, the Former Water Police Station is a prime example of the Spanish Mission style which was popular between 1915 and Other prominent buildings in the style include the Hartley Building on Kintore Avenue. Built by the South Australian Public Buildings Department, the former water police station housed two water police officers who monitored activities on the River and in the vicinity. The building contains a small room used by officers, an exercise yard and a single cell. Used until 1956 by the police, it now houses Adelaide City Council horticultural staff. 26

27 Adelaide Bridge King William Street, Adelaide State Heritage Place This bridge was opened on 5 March It was the third bridge on this site and the fifth built to provide access to and from the City and North Adelaide across the Torrens. By 1920 the old City Bridge (erected in 1877) had become overloaded causing congestion, particularly when trams were crossing the bridge. The City Council decided to do away with the bottleneck by providing a bridge 132 feet wide with footpaths and carriage way of the same dimensions as King William Street. The design was by the city engineer. Architectural drawing of the City Bridge, King William Street, Adelaide, circa State Library of South Australia, B

28 City Bridge, King William Road, on the day of its official opening, 5th March State Library of South Australia, B

29 Elder Park Rotunda King William Road State Heritage Place Elder Park was originally part of the Governors garden; it was never intended that King William Street extend through to North Adelaide. In 1881 at a celebration of the damming of the Torrens River, wealthy land owner and industrialist, Sir Thomas Elder offered to donate a bandstand to the city. This site was selected and the Government kindly handed over the land. The bandstand, chosen from a Scottish catalogue, was shipped out from McFarlane s Saracen Foundry in Glasgow and erected in Measuring more than 7 meters in diameter the octagonal bandstand can be admired from King William Road due to the land being built up some five and a half meters with tons and tons of soil. 29

30 The official opening, by Mayor Edwin Smith was attended by 2,000 people. A special Rotunda March was composed for the occasion and played by the Military Band. For some years, the rotunda was the venue for regular performances and open air concerts. The rotunda c soon after construction, showing the large scale earthworks to create Elder Park. Captain W Sweet photo, courtesy State Library of SA (ref B3124) 30

31 Adelaide Gaol Gaol Road State Heritage Place In 1836, when Adelaide was first established as a free colony, it was decided that a Gaol was unnecessary. However within a year if settlement, it was apparent that there was some urgency to build a secure place to hold prisoners of the Colony. The first prisoners were held on the HMS Buffalo which was moored at Glenelg. When the Buffalo was recalled to the eastern states in June 1837, prisoners were held in tents along the River Torrens and chained to logs to prevent them from escaping. Later, in 1838, a temporary Gaol, called the Stone Jug, was set up in a wooden hut surrounded by a wooden fence. This enclosure was overcrowded, filthy and escape was easy. In 1840, Governor Gawler called for tenders to build a more substantial Gaol. The successful design was by George Strickland Kingston, Colonial Architect, with guard towers, hanging tower and substantial surrounding walls. A two storey administration building was located at the entrance. It is based on the English design pf Pentonville Gaol in London. 31

32 By early 1841, construction costs had well exceeded the estimate and the situation almost bankrupted the state. Governor Gawler was recalled to England to explain. Prisoners were moved into the new but incomplete gaol in To this day, some of the original embellishments that were originally planned were not constructed (e.g. one of the towers is still without its castellations). Over the course of its life, the Adelaide Gaol housed more than 300,000 inmates including Elizabeth Woolcott, the first woman to be hanged in the Adelaide Gaol for the murder of her husband and Squizzy Taylor, a Melbourne gangster killed in a shoot-out in 1927 and the subject of a 1984 movie of the same name. The Adelaide Gaol is the only radially designed gaol still remaining in Australia today, one of the oldest remaining buildings in South Australia and the longest continually operated prison in Australia. Modelled on Pentonville Prison in London, this was one of many prisons throughout the UK and the British Empire based on the 5 radiating wings. 32

33 Text by Meagan Cox, Katherine Russell, Martin Cook References: Adelaide Park Lands & Squares Cultural Landscape Assessment Study by Dr D Jones October

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