ROUTE 66 Road Trip. By Steve Davidson

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1 ROUTE 66 Road Trip By Steve Davidson (From the top): A steep, winding road leads to Memorial Park in Red Wing, Minn., a good place to enjoy the views and have a picnic lunch. Along the Mississippi and Root rivers, you ll find charming old towns with downtown districts renovated and welcoming of visitors, such as Red Wing, Minn., pictured here. The Root River Trail system presents more than 40 miles of excellent paved trails with farmland, bluffs, woods and the Root River providing the scenery. Artsy sculptures made of bicycle parts contrast with wild natural vegetation outside the Houston Nature Center in Houston, Minn. 26

2 Minnesota Bluff Country In the land of 10,000 lakes, we explore two special rivers. Grab your bike, your canoe, your binoculars, your fishing gear, your horse, your ATV... stow it all in, on or behind your RV and head to southeastern Minnesota. There, the mighty Mississippi River and the meandering Root River set the tone for a very special vacation experience. Maybe you ll spend as much time in or on the water as possible. Or maybe you ll get no closer than the shoreline. Doesn t matter. These two rivers drive the character of the area that reflects the rivers relaxing pace. Let s start with the Root River. Paralleled much of the way by Minnesota State Route 16, the Root River and its surrounding land is called Historic Bluff Country. State Route 16 is designated as a National Scenic Byway. The region was untouched by glaciers that flattened much of Minnesota in the period from 25,000 to 12,000 years ago, leaving rolling hills and limestone bluffs that contrast to the flatter prairie land to the north and west. A rich mixture of upper Midwest hardwood trees including oak, walnut, birch and cherry plus pines covers the land, much of which lies within the Richard J. Dorer Memorial Hardwood State Forest. Thanks to this designation as state land, recreational opportunities abound. We took an upstream tour of Historic Bluff Country, having dropped off Interstate 90 just after it crossed the Mississippi River at LaCrosse, Wisc.. A few miles south of LaCrescent, Minn., catch State Highway 16 and head west. Houston, Minn., sets the tone for what s to come. It s small, clean, and welcoming of tourists. Go north a couple of blocks to the Houston Nature Center to see displays of the region s wildlife and natural history. Sited among the Center s natural landscapes are artistic sculptures formed from bicycles. That s your cue that bicycles are embraced by this region. The paved 42-mile Root River State Trail is ideal for bicyclists, hikers and in-line skaters and in the winter, cross- This view of the Mississippi River is your reward for hiking to the top of Red Wing Barn Bluff. You ll find plenty of scenic bluff top views along the way. 27

3 Good Eats, Great Sites: Try most any café or restaurant in the Root River area for good hearty fare. Notables: The Creamery in Rushford for ice cream and pizza, plus a full menu; the Pie Shop in Whalen for lunch; the Branding Iron Supper Club in Preston for great views. Float the Root River in a canoe, kayak or tube. Learn about the Root River area s natural history at the Nature Center in Houston. Stroll downtown Lanesboro and take in a play at the Commonweal Theatre. See the fascinating underground world with a tour of privately owned Niagra Cave near Harmony or the Mystery Cave at Forestville/Mystery Cave State Park. Watch potters throw salt-glazed stoneware at the Red Wing Pottery store in Red Wing. Give your legs and lungs a workout by climbing to the top of Barn Bluff in Red Wing. Or sit on a bench in Levee Park or Colvill Park and watch the Mississippi River flow by. Swing through Old Frontenac to view civil war-era mansions which earned it the title of Newport of the Northwest during the late 1880s. Enjoy views of Lake Pepin from several scenic turnouts along Highway 61. country skiers, which is the only trail activity that requires a permit. The Root River Trail runs from Houston to Fountain. A southern leg, the Harmony-Preston Valley State Trail, connects to it north of Preston and runs south to the Red Wing attractions include Levee Park with its Visitors Center, and the Red Wing Pottery Store. A few miles southwest of Harmony, Minn., you ll find the Niagara Cave nestled into the fields. Take the hour-long guided tour for sights including a 60- foot waterfall. town of Harmony. While bikers watch the river as they peddle by it, canoeists, kayakers and tubers see the river up close and personal. Bring your own or take advantage of several outfitters in the area who will rent floatables plus provide shuttle services to bring you back to where you started. There are plenty of bicycle rental sources, too. Settling in The Historic Bluff Country offers RV parks that make the most of the area s special attractions. Eagle Cliff Campground and Lodging is one of the larger ones, with 222 sites along the Root River west of Lanesboro on Highway 16. People come to this area for the bike trails, the river and the tourist towns, explains Joyce Knutson, an employee at Eagle Cliff, who says she sees campers staying longer simply to enjoy the area. It s a great place for families. In fact, she says family reunions are becoming popular at the campground. No matter where you plan to stay, make reservations, she says. The Old Barn Resort is another RV park. True to its name, the big old white barn listed on the National Register of Historic Places presides over the 18-hole Rivers Bend golf course that lies on either side of the Root River, and a campground with 172 sites for RV and tent camping. The barn includes a restaurant, bar and game room, and the feeling that a lot of people have enjoyed the resort s laid-back charms since its renovation in With your rig settled into one of the area s campgrounds, you can get on your bikes and ride to your heart s content, exploring every one of the trail system s asphalt-covered miles. Or drive. Or float. In every town on the trail, you ll find a downtown district that welcomes visitors, offers good food and drink, and presents ample diversions for simply walking around and exploring. Lanesboro is the epicenter of Root River country. Nicely restored century-old buildings house a variety of shops and restaurants. On summer Wednesdays and Saturdays you can gather fresh local delicacies at the Lanesboro Farmers Market in Sylvan Park. The nationally known Commonweal Theatre Company produces plays yearround in its newly opened $3.5 million 185-seat theater. The town of Harmony sits at the southern edge of Root River Country. Five miles southwest of Harmony, nestled among the fields, is Niagara Cave, one of the largest caves in the Midwest. In Wabasha, Minn., the National Eagle Center is scheduled for grand opening at the end of September. It includes a viewing area for frequent eagle sightings. 28

4 Take comfort. A Honda portable generator is the ideal travel companion. It s super quiet, extremely reliable and won t run down your RV battery. So you can enjoy all the comforts of home without being anywhere near it. For a free brochure or the nearest dealer, call or shop online at gen.honda.com. Please read the owner s manual before operating your Honda Power Equipment. Connection of a generator to house power requires a transfer device to avoid possible injury to power company personnel. Consult a qualified electrician American Honda Motor Co., Inc. 29 Vol. 2 / No. 6

5 Ready-to-rent kayaks in Lanesboro, speak to the easy-floating fun that awaits on the nearby Root River. Sailboats dock at Lake City. Located on the Mississippi River s Lake Pepin, it s one of the largest marinas on the Mississippi. These stairs provide one small breather on the way up the mostly unpaved path to the top of Red Wing Barn Bluff. View its underground scenery, including a 60-foot waterfall, on a one-hour guided tour. Back in Harmony, don t be surprised if you share the roadway with a horse and buggy in this Amish area. As you explore the Root River area, you ll find a refreshing absence of chain stores and restaurants. It s one more way that helps you feel like you re in a special place that s enjoying life on its own terms. It would be easy to let the Root River region consume your whole vacation as you get caught up in its easy charms. But we also wanted to get a flavor of Don t forget Bicycles, for riding the nice blacktop trails (although it s not hard to find rentals) Canoes, tubes or kayaks, for cruising the Root River (also easily rented) Binoculars for birdwatching Mosquito repellant Hiking shoes Fishing gear, for Mississippi River backwaters and for trout and bass in the North and South Forks of the Root River A sweater or sweatshirt for cool nights To not bring firewood. To help control the spread of forest diseases and pests such as the emerald ash borer, Minnesota restricts firewood being brought to or used on Department of Natural Resources land. Only approved firewood such as kiln-dried unpainted lumber free of metal or firewood purchased from designated local vendors is allowed. another river... one that s just a little bit bigger. The mighty Mississippi starts its 2,300-mile journey to the Gulf of Mexico at Lake Itasca in north central Minnesota s Lake Country. It s not until the first set of 26 locks and dam in Minneapolis that the Mississippi takes on the working character that defines it and the river towns that line it. By the time it reaches the town of Red Wing, Minn., the Mississippi River is in its full working strength, with towboats and barges moving grain, fuel, 30

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7 coal and fertilizer while recreational boaters ply the inlets for fish or enjoy the majestic bluff scenery. Thanks to those bluffs, there are two ways to enjoy a great view of this old river city. The easy way is to drive up to Memorial Park. The no trucks sign and a few steep tight turns makes this a drive better suited for a solo vehicle or a Class A motorhome. At the top, you ll be rewarded with a panoramic view plus a nice park for picnicking. The more challenging way is to hike to the top of Barn Bluff. ROUTE 66 Regional ROUTE 66 RV Network Dealers Northwest Campers Highway 14 Byron, MN (888) Horses? ATVs? Whatever your choice of horsepower, southeastern Minnesota offers several opportunities. Forestville/Mystery Cave State Park near Preston has the highest horseback use of any state park in Minnesota. The hilly terrain and winding streams provide interesting and scenic riding. Fifty-five camping sites are available for horse campers. The Richard J. Dorer Memorial Hardwood State Forest offers several daily use areas and campgrounds with horse trails. Among them are Hay Creek, Reno horse campground, Zumbro Bottoms horse campgrounds, Wet Bark horse campgrounds, and Vinegar Ridge campsites. ATV riders will find 13.5 miles of trails available to them at the Snake Creek Trailhead daily use area, near Kellogg and also in the Richard J. Dorer State Forest. Do this only if you consider yourself to be in good shape and have good hiking shoes. There are no facilities of any kind at the top, only another beautiful view. For many, the word Red Wing is synonymous with pottery. Today, the Red Wing Pottery company is one of Minnesota s oldest businesses and ranks in the top 10 of Minnesota s shopping destinations. You ll also find the Historic Pottery District, and Pottery Place Mall, and a lovely downtown shopping district. As you re walking through downtown, be sure to step down to Levee Park to enjoy the riverfront and check out the Red Wing Visitors Center in the historic old train depot. Red Wing s Colvill Park offers another opportunity to relax, picnic and enjoy Mississippi River views. The park includes a marina with boat launch and a public aquatic center. There s ample room to maneuver the biggest RVs, but overnight camping is prohibited. Take U.S. Highway 61 south to embrace river views to the east and bluff views to the west. Stop and explore at any community you come to; each will give you a true sense of life in a river town. Unique among them is Old Frontenac. The entire community, which lacks any commercial establishments, is on the National Register of Historic Places, the first Minnesota community to be so named. Beautiful Civil War era mansions still stand. You ll pass Frontenac State Park on your way to Old Frontenac. It s emphasized as a Red Wing Levee Park is a good place to relax and watch the river flow by. It s just a block away from downtown shops and restaurants. 32 U.S. Highway 61, designated as a Great River Road, has numerous turnouts where you can take in the scenery. This one s north of Lake City.

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9 prime birder s park and includes 58 drive-in campsites, 19 with electricity. There s a reason the Mississippi River looks unusually wide along here. It s a naturally formed section of the river called Lake Pepin that s up to two miles wide and 22 miles long. It s a year-round recreation destination, popular with sailors in the summer and ice fishermen in the winter. Several towns along the way, including Lake City and Wabasha, have RV parks very close to downtown and the river although overnight camping may be very limited. Lake City, birthplace of waterskiing, has a river walk that covers more than two miles of the town s river front. On it, you ll walk past one of the largest marinas on the Mississippi. The city of Wabasha, in Where to Stay: Root River area Beaver Creek Valley State Park, County 1, Caledonia, (507) Forestville/Mystery Cave State Park, County 118, Preston, (507) DunRomin Park, DunRomin Drive, Caledonia, (507) Eagle Cliff Campground, State Highway 16, Lanesboro, (507) Highway 250 Campground, Highway 250, Lanesboro, (507) The Old Barn Resort and Rivers Bend Golf, Preston, (507) Fillmore County Fair Campground, 413 East Fillmore Street, Preston, (507) Maple Springs Campground and Country Store, County 118, (507) Valley View Campground, U.S. 52, Preston, (507) Mississippi River area Frontenac State Park, County 28 Blvd., Frontenac, (651) Bass Camp Resort, Rolbiecki Road, Minnesota City, (507) Hay Creek Valley Campground, Highway 58 Blvd. South, Red Wing, (888) Wabash Motel and RV 1110 Hiawatha Drive East, Wabasha, (651) addition to having a delightful downtown district, lays claim to being Minnesota s oldest community and the site where the movie, Grumpy Old Men, was filmed. In recognition of having one of the country s largest concentrations of bald eagles during the winter months, the town is home to the National Eagle Center which is scheduled for grand opening the end of September. Already open to the public, the center promises to offer great insight into America s national symbol. It s only a short walk from the downtown area, which might be your best option as parking immediately by the center appears limited. Much of the bluff side of the river is part of the sprawling Richard J. Dorer Memorial Hardwood State Forest that also encompasses the Root River region. As a state forest, it offers a wide range of multiuse opportunities. We checked out the Kruger State Forest campground which is about five miles west of Highway 61. It s lightly used, with 19 rustic campsites and a nearby canoe launch into the Zumbro River. Further south, off-road vehi- The Bass Camp resort lies immediately south of Lock and Dam Number 5. 34

10 There are plenty of private and public campgrounds in the region. Private ones include Eagle Cliff Campground in Lanesboro and the Old Barn Resort and Rivers Bend Golf in Preston. Reservations are strongly encouraged for all parks and campgrounds. cle enthusiasts will find 13.5 miles of trails designated for their use at the Snake Creek Forest Management Unit near Kellogg. Nearby Carley State Park has 20 drive-in sites; Whitewater State Park has 106 drive-in sites. Also near Kellogg is the LARK toy store which bills itself as the nation s largest independent toy store. Inside, you ll find lots of unique and nostalgic tin, wooden and stuffed toys plus an indoor carousel, a restaurant, and outdoor miniature golf. As you meander south on Highway 61, avoid pulling into tiny John Latsch State Park in search of a campsite (there are only seven walk-in tent sites). But you can stretch your legs there and gain another great river view by hiking the half-mile trail to the top of Charity Bluff. Lock and Dam Number 5 has a parking area and a viewing spot to watch boats being raised or lowered through the locks. Immediately south of the dam is the Bass Camp Resort with 74 RV sites and a true Mississippi River fishing camp feel. A few miles further south, we rolled into Winona. The chain stores reappeared, we no longer could see the river just beyond our door, and that one-stepfrom-reality feeling that the river imparts began to fade. We drove a few more miles south, hit the entrance ramp to Interstate 90, set the cruise control and said farewell to a wonderful slice of upper Midwestern river city experience. [ Towboats push barges filled with grain, fuel, coal and other bulk products up and down the Mississippi River. For more information Parsons & Greater Labette County Catch it! World-Class Fishing Class A Campsites Specialty & Niche Shopping tourism@parsonsks.com 35