TRIP 14: MADEIRA. Photo 8917: postcard with the numbers of my trails superimposed;

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Theodora Jordan
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TRIP 14: MADEIRA I knew nothing about Madeira prior to this trip apart from three facts: it is part of Portugal; it is in the Atlantic Ocean somewhere to the north of the Canaries; and it produces a

1 TRIP 14: MADEIRA I knew nothing about Madeira prior to this trip apart from three facts: it is part of Portugal; it is in the Atlantic Ocean somewhere to the north of the Canaries; and it produces a sweet wine which used to be popular in Britain: Have some Madeira, m dear. Now I know it s the birthplace of Cristiano Ronaldo (they ve even renamed the airport after him); it is quite small (about 60k from east to west and 24k from north to south); it is all hills and valleys with no coastal plain and some quite big mountains in the middle (the highest is 1862m, almost twice as high as Scafell Pike); and it is irrigated by a system of levadas, relatively level concrete channels descending from the hills, where most of the springs and rains are, to the cultivated areas lower down the slopes. Many of the guidebook-recommended walks are along these levadas which wind into, round and out of valleys along a very winding trajectory. I chose to avoid these levada trails, predicting that they would be boring for two reasons: they wind in and out of the same terrain over long distances and they are often enclosed by dense forest which restricts the views. Since two of my main reasons for walking are varied terrain and spectacular views, I went for two coastal trails, two mountain trails and one, short, levada trail to a spectacular view. Here s a map showing the location of my trails I hope you enjoy (or can forgive) the images of what the Madeirans consider most attractive about their island: Photo 8917: postcard with the numbers of my trails superimposed;

Travel around Madeira can be rapid if you have your own transport (thanks to a recently upgraded road system that relies on tunnels to prevent having to go round each valley) or slow if you are using

2 Travel around Madeira can be rapid if you have your own transport (thanks to a recently upgraded road system that relies on tunnels to prevent having to go round each valley) or slow if you are using the local buses (which go more or less everywhere but serve the locals and therefore stop frequently and visit each village along a winding route that avoids most of the tunnels). Accommodation is relatively cheap unless you are staying in one of the swanky hotels to the west of the capital, Funchal. I used Paddy Dillon s excellent Walking in Madeira (Cicerone, 2013) to choose my trails and provide some tips. Route-finding was not a problem as all these trails are well signposted and easy to follow. I shall refer to his guide-book as Dillon. I also found The Unofficial Madeira Bus Guide extremely useful, available online for 3.77 at My visit was in May 2017 and the guide was up-to-date to 27 th March 2017 and provided correct bus information every time. 169: Ponta de Sao Lourenco Ponta de Sao Lourenco is a thin, straggly peninsular, shaped like a crooked finger at the eastern extremity of Madeira and has one of the best and most popular trails on the island (Photos 8901, 8590). It is Walk 6 in Dillon. Photo 8901: Ponta de Sao Lourenco from the airport as I was leaving

Photo 8590: from Freytag & Berndt, Madeira WKP 1; www.freytagberndt.

3 Photo 8590: from Freytag & Berndt, Madeira WKP 1; The trail kicks off from the car-park at Baia d Abra where the bus terminates and appears to be a mountainous prospect (Photo 8605). Photo 8605: view from the start of the trail

However, you don t have to climb all these

and some palm trees around Casa do Sardinha

formations (Photos 8611, 8631, 8637, 8665).

first point of interest is Pedra Furado, a

4 However, you don t have to climb all these hills as the trail winds its way across their flanks. There is little shrubbery, just a few flowers and some palm trees around Casa do Sardinha (see later), but there is a variety of rock formations (Photos 8611, 8631, 8637, 8665). Photo 8611 Photo 8631 Photos 8637 and 8665 The first point of interest is Pedra Furado, a striking bay with a balcony view-point, reached after about 1k (Photos 8614, 8615 & 8616). Photo 8614 Photo 8616

Photo 8615: view along the coast from Pedra Furado Then you go round a bend to reach a second bay surrounding Ilheu do Guincho, a sea-stack at the entrance to the bay (Photo 8627).

5 Photo 8615: view along the coast from Pedra Furado Then you go round a bend to reach a second bay surrounding Ilheu do Guincho, a sea-stack at the entrance to the bay (Photo 8627). Photo 8627: Ilheu do Guincho and its bay Just before the path descends a flight of steps to reach a view-point above the bay, notice a pile of stones to your left and an orange/brown stripe in the rocks above it (Photo 8669).

Photo 8669: the pile of stones and the stripe Follow the stripe uphill if you want to find my first spot, which is at the top of the ridge where the stripe ends.

As I was writing my notes, a local guide came up to warn me that they have had several deaths from rock-falls up here.

6 Photo 8669: the pile of stones and the stripe Follow the stripe uphill if you want to find my first spot, which is at the top of the ridge where the stripe ends. But be warned, if you venture too near the edge or further down the ridge, as I did, things become dangerous. As I was writing my notes, a local guide came up to warn me that they have had several deaths from rock-falls up here. Ridge above Ilheu do Guincho Bay From my spot, you get the best view of the bay and its cliffs. You can also see the path ahead (Photo 8628), back to the start of the trail and two of the Ilhas Desertas out at sea to the south-east. You are surrounded by the black laval tufa which is liable to crumble near the cliff edge. Photo 8628: view-point and path ahead at Ilheu do Guincho Bay Time for some light relief after all that excitement. Here is a selection of flowers I came across (Photos 8625, 8642, 8651 & 8652).

7 Photo 8625 Photo 8642 Photo 8651: this one was taken to catch the indigenous local butterfly Photo 8652: poppies near my second spot a couple of pages ahead

Photo 8643: Estreito Another short traverse brings you to a parting of the ways from where there is a good view of the rest of the trail (Photo 8647).

8 Round the next corner, you come to Estreito, a narrow ridge connecting the trail to the furthest part of the peninsula (Photo 8643). As usual, this is much easier than it looks there is no danger with guard-rails on both sides. Photo 8643: Estreito Another short traverse brings you to a parting of the ways from where there is a good view of the rest of the trail (Photo 8647). Like most people I went left along a fairly flat path towards Casa do Sardinha in the distance. Photo 8647: my next spot is above the gap on the left; the hill is Pico do Furado; Casa do Sardinha is below it When you reach a view-point by another bay, I recommend you keep going uphill, rather than turning right towards the Casa. Head for a boulder with a pile of stones on top near the edge of a small cliff again don t go too near the edge as this ground looks as crumbly as at the previous spot.

Boulder to the East of Casa Do Sardinha I had spied out this spot from the parting of the ways, predicting that it would afford a good view of the islands separated from the end of the peninsula by a

9 Boulder to the East of Casa Do Sardinha I had spied out this spot from the parting of the ways, predicting that it would afford a good view of the islands separated from the end of the peninsula by a strait called Boqueirao, thus saving me the exertion of climbing (and descending, which is even worse) the hill of Pico do Furado for the view from on high. I was right: the views are terrific (Photo 8655) and include all three Ilhas Desertas way beyond Punta de Sao Lourenco (Photo 8662). Photo 8655: islands off the end of Punta de Sao Lourenco Photo 8662: the Ilhas Desertas an uninhabited nature reserve You also have the schadenfreude of seeing your fellow hikers slogging up and down Pico do Furado (Photo 8664). Below you, the oasis of Casa do Sardinha beckons with a distant view of Madeira s mountains behind the Baia d Abra (Photo 8657). Out at sea to the north-east, you can just make out the ancillary island of Porto Santo. You are surrounded by gravel and long grass but this detracts nothing from the magnificence of the views and there are handy

Photo 8664: you can just make out the people on the slope of Pico do Furado Photo 8657: Casa do Sardinha, Baia d Abra and the mountains of Madeira You can find your way to

10 boulders to rest upon. I make no apologies for including so many photos from this spot (see my Introduction where I promise not to) since these are among the best photos I took in Madeira. Photo 8664: you can just make out the people on the slope of Pico do Furado Photo 8657: Casa do Sardinha, Baia d Abra and the mountains of Madeira You can find your way to the Casa do Sardinha by continuing along the cliff-top and turning right on a brown path. Casa do Sardinha must mean House of Sardines, thus betraying its original use, but it s now a nature centre for a Parque Natural which includes ground covered by this trail. Someone should negotiate a concession to sell drinks, ice-creams and snacks

they would make a fortune. As it is, there are tables underneath the palm trees where you can vie for the little shade there is with other sweaty hikers and eat your packed lunch.

11 they would make a fortune. As it is, there are tables underneath the palm trees where you can vie for the little shade there is with other sweaty hikers and eat your packed lunch. The convention is to return by the lower route to the left which descends gradually to the sea where there are a few more picnic tables and the opportunity for a dip before climbing back up to the parting of the ways. If you are tired, the higher route is easier. From here, you have to return the way you came but there are more good views, perhaps not noticed on the way out (Photos 8667 & 8670). Photo 8667: looking back from the top of Estreito to the start of the trail and Madeira Photo 8670: from the early part of the trail towards Pico do Furado and the Ilhas Desertas

When you reach the car-park at Baia d Abra, there is usually a van there selling the drinks, ice-creams and snacks that would have been so welcome at the House of Sardines.

Photo 8675: first part of the trail, including stone piles made by tourists Photo 8676: second part of the trail The trail is only 7k officially but with all the twists & turns and ups & downs it is

12 When you reach the car-park at Baia d Abra, there is usually a van there selling the drinks, ice-creams and snacks that would have been so welcome at the House of Sardines. You can also go up a short rise to gain a retrospect of the ground you have covered (Photos 8675 & 8676). Photo 8675: first part of the trail, including stone piles made by tourists Photo 8676: second part of the trail The trail is only 7k officially but with all the twists & turns and ups & downs it is more like 9k and tiring walking at that with lots of steps, so allow more than the suggested 2½ hours. I took 4½ hours with an additional 2 hours rest! My first day in Madeira was a resounding success and my second favourite of my five trails. Make sure you do it if you visit Madeira, even if you don t like lots of other tourists on the path.

13 170: Ribeira Seca to Porto da Cruz via Boca do Risco This is Walk 10 in Dillon but I did it in the opposite direction. You can catch a bus to Ribeira Seca (get off at the Bar Boca do Risco) from where you ascend a valley to Boca do Risco ( Boca means col, gap or saddle ) before walking a half-way-up-the-cliff path to Lorano, a village perched above Porto do Cruz; from here you descend steeply on- and off-road to the town centre. Photo 8593: from Freytag & Berndt, Madeira WKP 1; I twisted my ankle as I got off the bus by making way for an old lady getting on the bus and stumbling into the gutter that runs beside many Madeiran roads. So don t be too polite! Then there is the problem of finding the start of the trail. I knew it was called Vereda da Boca do Risco but couldn t find an alley-way with that name. In fact the Vereda runs above the road and you have to climb steps to reach it. Another old lady directed me to the first flight of steps after the bus stop to the right of a cream-coloured house. At a fork, take the right-hand path which goes back a bit but soon reaches the Vereda: at first a track, then a path once it crosses the Levada do Canical after about 700m. It s a pleasant path, not too steep, with views up and down the Ribeira Seca ( Dry River ) Valley (Photo 8678). Once you arrive at Boca do Risco, the views improve: green hill-sides are replaced by majestic cliffs, open sea and the rather frightening prospect of the path ahead below Pico da Coroa (Photo 8680).

trees, sometimes in the open (Photos 8681 & 8683).

14 Photo 8678: view from the trail back down to Ribeira Seca Photo 8680: view from Boca do Risco along the north coast the path goes across the steep grey cliff in the middle distance The path is carved out of the cliff, sometimes narrow, sometimes wide, sometimes shaded by trees, sometimes in the open (Photos 8681 & 8683). After a couple of kilometres going in and out of valleys, the path narrows (Photo 8684) and starts to cross the steep cliff shown in Photo 8680 (Photo 8686). Although it looks hairy, it is nowhere dangerous with some safety fencing.

15 Photo 8681 Photo 8683 Photo 8684 Photo 8686 After the crossing, there is a good view-point at Ponta da Espigao Amarelo with a particularly fine view back past Boca do Risco to the islands at the end of Ponta de Sao Lourenco see Trail 169 (Photo 8689). Photo 8689: back along the trail

Photo 8690: along the coast to Porto da Cruz Photo 8692: grape vines just below the path Soon the track becomes a road at a cable-car ( teleferico ) which gives access to the lower cultivated slopes.

16 A bit further on, round the next headland, a wonderful view along the coast to Porta da Cruz appears through the trees (Photo 8690). Another k. brings you to a track which services cultivated terraces on the steep slopes below. Some of the slopes are so steep that I wondered how on earth they harvest the crop (Photo 8692). Photo 8690: along the coast to Porto da Cruz Photo 8692: grape vines just below the path Soon the track becomes a road at a cable-car ( teleferico ) which gives access to the lower cultivated slopes. Here the trail goes inland, overlooking the Seixo Valley with a distant view of Pico Ruivo and the other highest mountains of Madeira (Photo 8693). Lower down the road offers a view of Penha de Agua, the distinctive steep hill on the far side of Porto da Cruz (Photo 8694). We shall see this hill again at the end of Trail 173 from high up the second valley seen in Photo 8693.

Photo 8693: Seixo Valley and the highest mountains of Madeira Photo 8694: Penha de Agua from Lorano, 1k from the end of the trail At this point I was very tired, having lugged a full rucsack 9k

Only trouble is not many buses serve the centre of Porto da Cruz. Most of them stop at the end of the tunnel 1k up the road so check the bus schedules if you don t want to get stranded.

17 Photo 8693: Seixo Valley and the highest mountains of Madeira Photo 8694: Penha de Agua from Lorano, 1k from the end of the trail At this point I was very tired, having lugged a full rucsack 9k from Ribeira Seca. Not fancying the steep descent to Porto da Cruz via a plethora of steps which two guide-books had warned me about, I stuck out my thumb and scored a lift to the central bus stop. Only trouble is not many buses serve the centre of Porto da Cruz. Most of them stop at the end of the tunnel 1k up the road so check the bus schedules if you don t want to get stranded. There is no particular spot on this trail that I want to highlight, just the three view-points mentioned above and marked on the map. The highlight for me was the traverse of the steep cliff below Pico da Coroa.

171: Pico Ruivo from Achada do Teixeira There are four ways to climb the highest peak in Madeira: 1) Climb up a long trail from Ilha to the north alongside a levada and then up a hilly path (Dillon,

18 171: Pico Ruivo from Achada do Teixeira There are four ways to climb the highest peak in Madeira: 1) Climb up a long trail from Ilha to the north alongside a levada and then up a hilly path (Dillon, Walk 24, in reverse). 2) Follow the high ridge from the west, starting at the pass of Boca da Encumeada (Dillon, Walk 20). This ridge can also be accessed at Boca das Torrinhas from Faja dos Cardos. 3) Take the most popular mountain walk on Madeira (Dillon) from the car-park at Pico do Arieiro to the south (Dillon, Walk 23). This is a strenuous 12k there and back, involving lots of steep steps and is probably the most spectacular route. 4) Follow the ridge from the car-park at Achada do Teixeira to the east. This is a mere 6k there and back and is by far the easiest route. Naturally, after my exertions on the two previous trails, I chose the fourth option. You can only get to Achada do Teixeira (and Pico do Arieiro, for that matter) by your own transport or by taxi. I took a taxi from Santana, the nearest large town, at a cost of 20 Euros. I could see the tops of the mountains in a clear sky. Photo 8604: from Freytag & Berndt, Madeira WKP 1; The car-park is a plateau at the end of a rounded ridge that leads towards Pico Ruivo Achada means plateau (Photo 8703). Make your way up the paved path with views to both sides but the better and more extensive views are down towards the north coast (Photo 8707). Then the path passes a shelter, goes round a hill (Photo 8708), passes a second shelter and goes downhill to a sharper ridge (Photo 8712). On the ridge, you come to a third shelter:

19 Photo 8703: before the rush-hour at Achada do Teixeira Photo 8707: down to the north coast Photos 8708 & 8712: in both photos you can just see the white refuge just below the clouds

Third Shelter from Achada do Teixeira This shelter sits at a narrow point on the ridge, affording dramatic views by moving a few metres both down a deep valley to the coast at Sao Jorge (Photo 8715)

20 Third Shelter from Achada do Teixeira This shelter sits at a narrow point on the ridge, affording dramatic views by moving a few metres both down a deep valley to the coast at Sao Jorge (Photo 8715) and down into another deep valley on the other side (Photo 8717). The area sports a lot of yellow-flowering broom amidst a scattering of rocks. I advise taking a break here for energetic as well as aesthetic reasons. You now have much steep climbing to do. Photo 8715: the deep valley carries the Caldeirao Verde Trail, often recommended (Dillon Walk 26) Photo 8717: this valley goes down towards Miradouro Balcoes (see Trail 173) A lengthy flight of steps now takes you up to the refuge, glimpsed in Photos 8708 & 8712 (Photo 8723). As you can see from my photos, the cloud cover came down to this level and it started to drizzle. I waited an hour at the refuge for it to clear, with no luck, entertaining myself by feeding the birds (Photo 8731).

Photo 8723: the refuge Photo 8731: grey wagtail, I believe So eventually I trudged the short distance to the top (0.8k, the sign said) just in case it might clear.

Photo 8718: top of Pico Ruivo Photo 8712: coming down from the top The return journey to Achada do Teixeira was slow going for me as I had tired my legs out getting to the top.

21 Photo 8723: the refuge Photo 8731: grey wagtail, I believe So eventually I trudged the short distance to the top (0.8k, the sign said) just in case it might clear. The steps were very high and steep and it took me an hour there and back, with no views from the top quite a common occurrence, apparently (Photos 8718 & 8721). Photo 8718: top of Pico Ruivo Photo 8712: coming down from the top The return journey to Achada do Teixeira was slow going for me as I had tired my legs out getting to the top. I was going so slowly that a woman said, Do you need help? No, I replied. Thinking that was rather brusque, I added, These steps are too high for me. You are my hero, she said. Well, you have to keep going you can reach the top, even if it s slowly, I explained. That is the real power, she concluded. An unexpected compliment, just when I was feeling my age and decrepitude. The guide-books suggest 3 hours for the return trip I took 4 hours plus 2 hours of rests. I enjoyed the views from lower down the ridge but I really wanted to see the views from the top looking south towards Pico das Torres and Pico do Arieiro and looking west along the ridge towards Boca da Encumeada. Heigh-ho, you can t have everything and it was worth it for the first part of the trail. So remember, even when it is clear on top when you set out, the cloud can come down at any time. Fortunately, I was able to share a taxi when I got back to Achada do Teixeira.

172: Boca da Corrida to Faja Escura Now we come to the highlight of my trip: a 10k trail from a road end above Funchal across three cols and round two mountains before descending steeply into a

22 172: Boca da Corrida to Faja Escura Now we come to the highlight of my trip: a 10k trail from a road end above Funchal across three cols and round two mountains before descending steeply into a remote valley below Pico Ruivo (Dillon, Walk 34). After my hard time on Pico Ruivo, I decided against another long up & down ridge trail from Boca da Encumeada in favour of this somewhat shorter and more level one. Photo 8585: from Freytag & Berndt, Madeira WKP 1; Unfortunately, the bus stops over 1k short of the road end at Boca da Corrida so you have to walk up a steep slope. It took me 37 minutes but you will do it quicker. The car-park at Boca overlooks the deep hole in the mountains that contains Curral das Freiras, a village featured on many post-cards for being almost completely enclosed by very steep mountain-sides (Photo 8814). The trail goes up a ridge for a bit then round the side of a few hills with more views down into the Curral Valley, over to Pico Ruivo, ahead to Pico Grande (Photo 8815) and even down to the coast at Funchal (Photo 8816). In May, the hill-sides were resplendent in a speckled cloak of yellow broom (later it would be gorse which was still in bud). Other flowers were scarce after the purple and pink ones at Boca da Corrida but I did notice a solitary harebell (Photo 8818).

23 Photo 8814: Curral das Freiras with Pico do Arieiro behind Photo 8815: the initial ridge with Pico Grande behind from Boca da Corrida Photo 8816: looking down to Boca da Corrida with Funchal barely visible in the distance

Photo 8818: solitary harebell by the path RANT ALERT. The initial climb up the ridge brought some feelings to the boil. Why do most older people stop walking in high places?

Not so, as shown by the tracks made at the side of steps by the many people who find steps difficult. The solution?

24 Photo 8818: solitary harebell by the path RANT ALERT. The initial climb up the ridge brought some feelings to the boil. Why do most older people stop walking in high places? STEPS: steps made by macho younger people who assume that all walkers have to be strong in thigh, knee and calf. Not so, as shown by the tracks made at the side of steps by the many people who find steps difficult. The solution? Twofold: 1) make paths sloping, whether of stone slabs or tarmac, or 2) where this is not possible, e.g. because the slope is too steep or potentially slippery, make the steps shallower. The climb from the Boca starts off with steps, then converts to a sloping path at the same gradient. You tell me which is the easier whatever your age. This is a problem for me in every country I have visited. After the initial paved section, the path becomes knobbly and you have to be careful not to stumble. About half an hour into the trail, you arrive at Boca dos Corgos, the first col. You actually cross it below the crest of the ridge shown in Photo 8821, which also shows Pico do Cavalo, what I consider the best view of Pico Grande and Pico do Serradinho on the right. Photo 8821: the path is to the right of Pico do Cavalo and to the left of Pico do Serradinho

Photo 8822: chestnut trees and broom on Boca dos Corgos This brings you to Passo de Ares I m not sure of the distinction between a passo and a

25 On Boca dos Corgos you pass some unexpected chestnut trees just coming in to leaf when I was there in May (Photo 8822) before rounding Pico do Cavalo. Photo 8822: chestnut trees and broom on Boca dos Corgos This brings you to Passo de Ares I m not sure of the distinction between a passo and a boca which connects Pico do Cavalo and Pico do Serradinho (Photo 8825). The views from the slope just before you begin the descent to the Passo are so vast and exhilarating that this is my first spot: Photo 8825: Passo de Ares from the path round Pico do Cavalo, Pico Grande to the left

Slope before Passo de Ares Firstly, you have the path across the narrow col immediately below you. On the far side, the path curves through the broom on Pico do Serradinho (Photo 8828).

To your right, you can still see down to Curral das Freiras and most of the way to the coast.

26 Slope before Passo de Ares Firstly, you have the path across the narrow col immediately below you. On the far side, the path curves through the broom on Pico do Serradinho (Photo 8828). To your left, the sheer face of Pico Grande rises above a valley while further to the left you can see across the valley to Boca da Encumeada (Photo 8831). To your right, you can still see down to Curral das Freiras and most of the way to the coast. Photo 8828: Pico do Serradhino from my spot Photo 8831: Boca da Encumeada lies in the V between the mountains On the descent, I took an arty photo of Pico Grande peeking over some very large and bright broom flowers (Photo 8830). The path across Passo de Ares is accompanied by some rather unnecessary cable fences, presumably for the benefit of the vertiginous because there is no danger on the path. On the far side, the views are now to your left. Soon you reach the corner seen at the far left of Photo 8828 where my next spot lies:

Photo 8830: broom sweeping Pico Grande First Corner on Rounding Pico do Serradinho Here the views are again spectacular: behind you can be seen most of the trail

Pico Grande with the next col, Boca do Cerro, to its right; over the gap of Boca do Cerro, you get a glimpse of Pico Ruivo (Photo 8834); while to your right, the path

27 Photo 8830: broom sweeping Pico Grande First Corner on Rounding Pico do Serradinho Here the views are again spectacular: behind you can be seen most of the trail already walked; to your left, you look down a long, deep valley to the northern houses of Serra de Agua; in front of you, across the valley head, is the sheer face of Pico Grande with the next col, Boca do Cerro, to its right; over the gap of Boca do Cerro, you get a glimpse of Pico Ruivo (Photo 8834); while to your right, the path leads round the valley head towards the summit of Pico do Serradinho, its slopes blooming with yellow broom flowers. Photo 8834: Pico Grande, Pico do Coelho and Pico Ruivo

As you approach Pico do Serradinho, there is a dark and surprising copse of eucalyptus trees what are they doing here, I thought they belonged in Australia? (Photo 8835).

Now you have a full view of Pico Ruivo and the rest of Madeira s highest mountains (Photo 8836).

28 As you approach Pico do Serradinho, there is a dark and surprising copse of eucalyptus trees what are they doing here, I thought they belonged in Australia? (Photo 8835). Photo 8835: eucalyptus trees below the summit of Pico do Serradinho Round a couple more bends you arrive at the final corner before the descent to Boca do Cerro. Now you have a full view of Pico Ruivo and the rest of Madeira s highest mountains (Photo 8836). Photo 8836: Pico do Coelho, Pico Ruivo and Pico das Torres from above Boca do Cerro This view will accompany you for a long while on your descent to Faja Escura. In fact, you can see a village in the bottom of the valley beneath Pico Ruivo but it is Faja dos Cardos, not Faja Escura which you don t see until you arrive there (Photo 8838).

Photo 8838: all the highest mountains: from the left, Pico do Coelho, Pico Ruivo, Pico das Torres, Pico do Gato, Pico do Cidrao and Pico do Arieiro; part of Faja dos Cardos below Another rant coming

Both of them were going fast, on a route march, and clearly resented my presence. What is it with such people? Why are they out there if they are so grumpy? Are they trying to prove something?

29 Photo 8838: all the highest mountains: from the left, Pico do Coelho, Pico Ruivo, Pico das Torres, Pico do Gato, Pico do Cidrao and Pico do Arieiro; part of Faja dos Cardos below Another rant coming up: I passed two lone hikers coming the other way on Pico do Serradinho, both of whom responded to my cheery Hallo with a reluctant grunt. Both of them were going fast, on a route march, and clearly resented my presence. What is it with such people? Why are they out there if they are so grumpy? Are they trying to prove something? What is the joy in what they are doing? On the way across Boca do Cerro, watch for a right turn sign-posted for Faja Escura and Curral das Freiras. This takes you over the crest of the col to another parting of the ways: the left path leads up Pico Grande while the right one leads down to Curral das Freiras. Now begins the long descent to Faja Escura. It s about 2½ k but it took me just over 4 hours, what with me being tired and the path being steep with many steps towards the end. Again the path is knobbly in places with steep drops on one side so again you have to be careful not to stumble - and no, I didn t stumble on these knobbly sections. However, the whole descent required fierce concentration in my state of increasing exhaustion. I distracted myself with a few more photos (Photos 8840, 8842 & 8844). Photo 8840: a nice corner Photo 8842: pinnacle & Pico do Serradinho

Photo 8844: waterfall and broom and hiker At Eirado, the path negotiates a steep spur with a series of hairy hairpins squeaky bum time for me (Photo 8845) before the path

Photo 8845: the path goes down the left side of the spur; Curral top right, Faja Escura is behind the spur About here, it started to rain and I had to take extra care on

30 Photo 8844: waterfall and broom and hiker At Eirado, the path negotiates a steep spur with a series of hairy hairpins squeaky bum time for me (Photo 8845) before the path becomes wider and enters woodland. Photo 8845: the path goes down the left side of the spur; Curral top right, Faja Escura is behind the spur About here, it started to rain and I had to take extra care on slippery stones. Hardly anywhere does the path become easy all the way into Faja Escura. It is worth noting that the last bus comes to Faja Escura at about 7.15 but there are later buses from Faja dos Cardos which pass the road end for Faja Escura on their way to Curral and Lombo Chao. The return buses from

Lombo Chao to Funchal after 6.15 do not come this way but leave from the lower bus stop at Curral. All this should make sense if you study the complicated timetable of the No. 81 bus.

31 Lombo Chao to Funchal after 6.15 do not come this way but leave from the lower bus stop at Curral. All this should make sense if you study the complicated timetable of the No. 81 bus. All the effort was definitely worth it: I shall remember the early part of the trail as far as Boca do Cerro, not the excruciating descent. This hike had everything I like: a high route, not too strenuous (until the end), ever-changing views, flowers blooming and weather just right cloud higher than the mountain-tops but not continuous sun, otherwise I cannot carry all the water I need. As it was, I needed a top-up of my 2 litres at the waterfall. So it is the only Madeira hike that goes into my pantheon of heavenly hikes (see Odds & Sods section). 173: Miradouro Balcoes This is an easily accessible, popular tourist stop-off so it should not really qualify as a trailless-trodden (see my Introduction to this website) but, as I also say in my Introduction, I do like to break my own rules from time to time. I include this short trail because it is a representative levada walk and because the view-point ( miradouro ) at the end is so exceptional. Photo 8600: combine this with Photo 8604 (p18) to map the views to Pico Ruivo etc.; from Freytag & Berndt, Madeira WKP 1; A bus drops you off at Ribeiro Frio and you have 2 hours or more to toddle along the level 3k trail there & back, if you are catching the return bus to Funchal. The start of the trail is just below the bus stop. It follows the twists and turns of the levada along the contour line around a few valleys (Photos 8848 & 8852). On the way, it passes a bar and goes through a gap between two large rocks.

Photo 8848: start of the levada walk Photo 8852 Miradouro Balcoes itself is, as the name suggests, a balcony perched high on the side of the Metade valley

It offers views of all five highest mountains, strung out in a chain (Photos 8856 & 8857).

32 Photo 8848: start of the levada walk Photo 8852 Miradouro Balcoes itself is, as the name suggests, a balcony perched high on the side of the Metade valley which runs down from below Pico do Gato and Pico das Torres (two of Madeira s five highest mountains) to Faial in the north-east. It offers views of all five highest mountains, strung out in a chain (Photos 8856 & 8857). Photos 8856 & 8857: taken together these two cover the view to the top of the valley Although the clouds were coming down, the tops of all the mountains were in fact visible as you can see from this post-card taken in fine weather (Photo 8913).

Photo 8913: www.paradiso-design.net & www.marina-wilhelm.de Pico Ruivo appears to be lower than Pico do Arieiro because the former is furthest away of the five peaks and the latter is the nearest.

33 Photo 8913: & Pico Ruivo appears to be lower than Pico do Arieiro because the former is furthest away of the five peaks and the latter is the nearest. Looking down the valley, you can see the distinctive lump of Penha de Agua, seen at the end of Trail 170 in Photo 8694 (Photo 8867). Photo 8867: down the Metade valley to Penha de Agua You are surrounded by the typical green-forested hills and valleys of northern Madeira with vast distances (up to 7k anyway) between you and them. A few impossibly perched houses adorn the valley heads and scavenging birds twitter and fuss all around the balcony. It is a remarkable spot, for once justifying the tourist hype.

On the return to Ribeiro Frio, I took a few more levada photos to

beer and a very tasty cream custard tart at John s Poncha Bar

34 On the return to Ribeiro Frio, I took a few more levada photos to show you what levada paths are like many of them are much narrower, though (Photos 8869 & 8871). Typically, there were only two views into the valleys on the whole 1½ k trail from Balcoes. Photo 8869 Photo 8871 At Ribeiro Frio, I rewarded myself with a beer and a very tasty cream custard tart at John s Poncha Bar while waiting for the bus. The local birds found it tasty, too (Photo 8883), especially when I crumbled up the pastry (Photo 8886). Photos 8883 & 8886

35 In conclusion, I would say there are about six or seven good trails on Madeira that are not levada trails, four of which are on this website. The levada trails in the south of the island are not all forested some of them go through cultivated areas so they will have some views. So basically, you have a choice between level and somewhat boring levada trails and steep but more varied mountain or coast trails. I know which I prefer but then I m not big on the trees and birds that surround the levadas. One last point: many of the levada trails go through tunnels, some quite long (up to 2k) so bear that in mind if you are claustrophobic. Thus ends my Madeira trip. At times, I thought this would have to be my last trip but I soon forget the rigours of the trail for my 72-year-old legs and look forward to the next trip the mountains around Italy s Valle d Aosta.

Explore Madeira Island COASTAL NATURE SUMMER WINTER

Explore Madeira Island COASTAL NATURE SUMMER WINTER 2018 www.portugalnaturetrails.com info@portugalnaturetrails.com Explore Madeira Island COASTAL NATURE SUMMER WINTER DESCRIPTION Walk into the wild paradise