Historical Cyling Tour of Lake Hopatcong

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Hilary McDowell
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1 Historical Cyling Tour of Lake Hopatcong It s no secret that Lake Hopatcong has a vibrant and rich history, and that much of it can be taken in by bike. Here we provide a route for you to take, along with a bit of information about each landmark, taken from books written by Lake Hopatcong historian Marty Kane. For much longer descriptions, the Lake Hopatcong Historical Museum offers an array of such books that go into much more detail than we have the space for here. 1. Lake Hopatcong State Park and Dam: The lake was linked to the Morris Canal by a fully navigable feeder canal that ran from the present site of the Hopatcong State Park to the main body of the canal (which is located where Pathmark stands today, on Lakeside Boulevard). Boats entering the lake needed to pass through a lock to be raised to the lake s level. It was replaced by a concrete dam in 1924, which continues to stand today. 2. Point Pleasant: The Point Pleasant Club was organized by members of a Newark church in 1888, and after a short period of camping on the site, the club built seven cottages on the point. In 1910, the Justamere Lodge was built, and operated until the 1960s. The lodge was converted into a private residence, and modern homes replaced the cottages. 3. Garden State Yacht Club: In 1890, a large cottage was built up on the hill, called Bella Vista (and later renamed Hillcrest ). It was converted back to a private residence and in 1951 was purchased as a clubhouse for the Garden State Yacht Club. It was destroyed by a fire in 1984 and replaced by the clubhouse that stands today. 4. Site of Former Residence of Hudson Maxim: Hudson Maxim was an inventor, scientist, author, and explosives expert, who built his main house on Lake Hopatcong in Two years later, he built his famous Venetian style boat house, which would dominate the west shore of the lake for the next half century. He died in 1927, and the main house and boat house were torn down in the 1950s. Two of Maxim s guest houses remain as private residences, and vestiges of Maxim s residence remain in the stone work on the site. 5. Former Site of Castle Edward: The southern shore of River Styx is now lined with private residences, but as you cruise by, picture one of the grandest hotels sitting along the shore. Castle Edward was originally constructed in 1905 to look like a 17 th century castle. By 1913, it had three levels and included a ballroom, bowling alleys, an orchestra, and a beach. It closed during the Great Depression and burned down in 1931, and few remnants remain visible from the lake. 6. The Pagoda: Today it is Pavinci s, but in the early 20 th century, the rightmost part of the building (as seen from the lake) was known as The Pagoda, which featured a lunch counter and a soda fountain, as well as bungalows, boats, and canoes for rent. It eventually was connected with the old West Side United Church building and houses Pavinci s restaurant and a recording studio. 7. River Styx Bridge: The first River Styx Bridge was constructed entirely of wood in the 1880s at private expense. The one you see today was first built with steel in 1909, and has been renovated several times since. 8. Bon Air Lodge: Today, the building just north of the River Styx Bridge houses efficiency apartments, but before it was built in the 1970s, an impressive cottage called the Westerly, built in 1914, stood in its place. It was eventually converted into the Hotel Bon Air and Cottages, and expanded in 1925 to become the Bon Air Lodge which remained popular through the 1950s and burned down in Sleepless Hollow: Majestically standing atop a hill at the southern shore of Davis Cove, the home of Lake Hopatcong s most famous resident still looks much the way it did during Joe Cook s heyday though his golf course and tennis courts have since been subdivided into adjacent lots. Sleepless Hollow was Cook s summer escape, and the vaudeville star lived there from 1924 to 1941, bringing along scores of famous friends to enjoy the lake. 10. Eagle s Nest: Constructed high up on the mountain in north Davis Cove, Eagle s Nest was built in 1903 by Dr. Lewis S. Pilcher, a prominent early surgeon from Brooklyn, N.Y., who pioneered many advances

2 in surgery. Pilcher first came to the lake in 1878 and spent the next 56 summers here. His beloved Eagle s Nest still overlooks Lake Hopatcong from high above. 11. Sperry Springs: Sperry Springs, named after an actual spring where the locals would fill up on water, was a residential area along the southern shore of Byram Cove. In the late 1940s, the Martinique was a popular spot that included a soda fountain and luncheonette, and its waterfront location attracted a summer crowd. The building would continue as a cocktail lounge until the 1980s, when it became a private residence. 12. Byram Bay Community Club: As Lake Hopatcong developed, community beaches were a common amenity as many did not own lakefront property. For many kids who grew up at the lake, these beaches and community clubs are a treasured memory of summer life at the lake. A few survive, including the Byram Bay Community Club, which was founded in Sister Islands: In 1905, two of the three Sister Islands in Byram Cove were used for a cottage, boat house (with kitchen and dining room), and ice house. By 1912, the site became the Sister Islands Hotel, operating as a small rooming house for a short while before reverting back to use as a private summer residence. 14. Maxim Park Yacht Club: In 1914, the Maxim Park Yacht Club on Cow Tongue Point was organized by some of the lake s best known residents. Its first officers included Hudson Maxim and Rex Beach, one of America s most successful authors of the 1910s and 1920s. The clubhouse closed in the 1920s and was converted to a private home, staying in the same family ever since. 15. Northwood Boat Works: For decades, Northwood Boat Works has been a popular spot for boat sales, repairs, and restorations. Though ownership changed hands through the years most will remember Wayne Mocksfield and the Kadimiks most recently the Northwood name remained a part of the business until recently, when it became Katz s Marina. The business continues to focus on antique and classic boats, which have a special following on Lake Hopatcong. 16. Northwood Inn: In 1921, William Glasser established a general store, pavilion, and ice house in the Northwood section of Lake Hopatcong. His Northwood Pavilion was frequently used for dances and other community activities. After Glasser sold the store in 1958 it became known as the Northwood Inn, which operated until the mid-1990s. In 2005, it reopened as Kabob s at the Northwood Inn, a popular restaurant and bar destination, as well as a general store. 17. Raccoon Island Ferry: Raccoon Island was originally developed in the late 1880s, and in 1891, the Chincopee Bridge was opened, which connected the island to the mainland. The bridge collapsed 1899, and a new bridge was approved (after much discussion) in 1928, but was never built because of the Great Depression. Ferry service began in 1932 and has continued ever since. The residences on the island itself have grown from 12 cottages and a hotel in the late 1800s to about 65 homes today. 18. Hollywood: That hotel, known as the Hollywood, had a general store along the shoreline. Despite the hotel burning down, the store survived and was turned into a residence, which stands today and can be recognized by its broad deck and white columns. 19. Halsey Island: At the start of the 20 th Century, Halsey Island was home to only two cottages, one of which was converted to the Ardsley Hotel in The Ardsley had about 15 rooms and a sandy beach. It was destroyed by fire in 1927, but its foundation is still visible, and about 20 homes are located on the island today. 20. Prospect Point: The Shadow Lawn Boathouse, later known as the Prospect Point Boathouse, was built around 1905 and served as a store, snack bar, and boat-rental facility with a bathing beach. In the 1930s, the boat house became the center for the Prospect Point Boat Yard, and in 2006 it was transformed into the Main Lake Market, which serves as a lakeside general store and café. 21. Smitty s: As you pass Oh! Sullivan s Pub, picture the land around you far emptier of homes and businesses than it is today. That s what the Woodport landscape looked like when Agustice Smith opened a small general store in the 1920s. Later known as Smitty s Lakeview Tavern, it featured

3 dancing every Saturday, fishing, boating, and bathing. In 1965, the property was damaged by a fire and needed to be rebuilt. Today, it s a popular marina, restaurant, and bar. 22. Lake Forest: The area we now know as Woodport and Lake Forest was once part of a separate body of water, known as Little Pond, which connected to the lake by stream. Damming and dredging led to its connection to the main body of Lake Hopatcong. Hurdtown Ice House one of five commercial ice houses on the lake once stood where Lake Forest Yacht Club is located today. 23. The Canals: Originally known as Hurd Creek, the canals are off to the left just before you pass back under Brady s Bridge on your way to the main lake. Today, they are popular spot for kayakers to explore. 24. The Windlass: In 1882, the Central Railroad of New Jersey extended rail service to Lake Hopatcong at Nolan s Point. Two pavilions were built there to provide activities for arriving passengers. The first was the Lake Pavilion (later known as Allen s Pavilion), which was originally constructed in the 1880s and featured a dance hall, restaurant, picnic grounds, amusements, and hotel rooms. It was destroyed by fire and rebuilt twice, and the third building suffered a partial collapse due to a blizzard in The remains were renovated into the Windlass Restaurant, which stands today. 25. The Jefferson House: Lee s Pavilion was the second destination built at Nolan s Point. Built by John Lee in 1899, the building would be greatly enlarged and expanded by John and his sons over the next 20 years, featuring stores, services, a dance hall, and hotel rooms, earning a nickname as a mini-coney Island. The complex was destroyed by fire in October 1924, and the new building became Kay s Hotel, and then the Colony Club. Since 1941, it has been the home of the Jefferson House. 26. Great Cove Beach: Opened in 1922 by the former proprietor of the bathing beach at Bertrand Island, Great Cove Park featured a sandy beach, refreshment stand, swimming dock, water slide, and water wheel. The beach closed in the 1960s and the site evolved into a marina, as it is today. 27. Chestnut Point: This space was once a park with eight or nine little cottages, picnic tables, a sawmill (which led to the demise of the chestnut trees!), and a hot dog stand. In the 1970s, it was purchased and a private residence was built among the trees, and the originally owners continue to live there today. 28. Lee s Pavilion and Beach: Brothers Clarence and Edwin Lee bought land in Van Every Cove in 1919 and founded Lee and Brothers Park as a beach and recreation area. Over the years, Clarence bought out his brother s share, and the name was changed to Lee s Park. Business passed to Clarence s son, Robert, and evolved from a bathing beach to a marina with a boat ramp and dock slips. In 1995, the Lee family donated the over-ten-acre property to Morris County so that it might be permanently preserved as a park. 29. Attol Tryst: High up on the south shore of Van Every Cove, a stunning home was once among an exclusive millionaire s summer community, near the Breslin Hotel. The most famous resident of this area was Lotta Crabtree, who owned the grand home that still stands today, which was designed by architect Frank Furness and served as a summer retreat for the famous stage actress. Its current owners restored the home to its original grandeur. 30. Site of the Former Breslin Hotel: The single most important factor in Lake Hopatcong s growth as a resort was the construction of the Hotel Breslin in 1887, which was backed by a group of wealthy individuals and gave the lake credibility as a resort. It was also designed by Frank Furness, and built on 18 acres overlooking Chestnut Point, on the southern shore of Van Every Cove. It was the first structure to have electricity at the lake, and had about 250 guest rooms in addition to a range of other facilities. It was mid-renovation in 1948 when it burned down in a fire, and the land was then subdivided. A wooden structure associated with the hotel s beach survives, its decorative staircases still exist, and its boat house still stands, but is a private residence today. 31. Himpler House: The castle-like building on the point was meant to look just like that a castle on the Rhine. Built of imported stone and designed by and for architect Francis Himpler, the cottage was

4 called Mira Lacum ( view of the lake ). It was one of the last remaining lots in Breslin Park when he built his castle in Today, the grounds of been subdivided, but the building remains. 32. Crescent Lodge/Bella Vista: Built in 1889, this grand home that stands high on the east shore of Lake Hopatcong was first owned by Howard Frothingham, a New York City investment banker and Mt. Arlington s first mayor. The home was known for its curved wooden designs, and the original cottage was expanded shortly after its construction. The lodge was purchased by the Felician Order in 1926 as a retreat for its sisters, and now is part of the St. Francis of Assisi convent. Under the Felicians care, the lodge has retained its woodwork and charm. Next door, Bella Vista ( beautiful view ) was built by Albert Tilt, the owner of a Paterson silk mill, in It was also purchased by the Felicians, and the interior has changed little over the years, featuring stunning woodwork and a beautiful ballroom. 33. Bertrand Island Park: For about 70 years, Bertrand Island Park was a landmark on the Lake Hopatcong shoreline. Its location on the state s largest lake set it aside from other regional amusement parks that offered pools or salt-water beaches. The park featured some 20 rides and a boardwalk full of games. Its roller coaster debuted in The park eventually fell victim to the lake s coming-of-age as a yearround community, closing on Labor Day in 1983 and being demolished in In 2003, condominiums were built on the old grounds. 34. Lake Hopatcong Yacht Club: The merger of two clubs resulted in the formation of the Lake Hopatcong Yacht Club in 1905, and for the next five years, events were held at the cottage of the club s first commodore. In July 1910, the members opened a clubhouse on Bertrand Island, and the building has remained mostly the same for the last century. This summer, the club will celebrate the centennial of the clubhouse, which retains its original Adirondack camp style and rough-hewn timbers inside. It is listed on the National and State Historic Registers. 35. Bed Bug Island: Once known as Romeo Island, Bed Bug Island which sits just off Bertrand Island was an attractive camp site with a collection of trees, stones, and a small beach. Over the years, the island has been battered by waves and was even hit by a motorboat, and now is just a shadow of its former self. 36. Site of Mountain Ice House: From the mid-1800s to the 1930s, ice harvesting was a huge industry on Lake Hopatcong. The largest ice house was Mountain Ice House, which towered some 56 feet over the lake. The advent of refrigeration made the ice industry obsolete, and Mountain Ice House harvested its last ice in It was torn down in 1939, with the land remaining mostly undeveloped, with the exception of Nixon School, until the 1980s. The area now hosts some of the lake s most impressive homes. 37. Silver Spring Park: Henry Scheer built Silver Spring Park in Landing in the early 1900s, with a hotel, shooting range, ball field, steam carousel, and boat rentals. The park closed with the Depression in the 1930s, and today it is a quiet community of private homes. 38. Shore Hills Beach: American Forcite Powder Company operated a major manufacturing facility along the southern part of the lake from 1883 to 1932, producing explosives and acids, constructing more than 100 buildings on its 400-acre site. Because of the nearby train in Landing, this factory was a large supplier during the first World War. It was acquired by Atlas Powder Company in 1913, but because it was bordering on a growing summer community, it faced higher taxes and eventually dismantled the plant and moved operations to Pennsylvania in The property was vacant until 1947, when Shore Hills was developed on the site. The beach club remains a popular summer spot today.

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