Languedoc. 87 la baume, sanilhac A lovey walk to dramatic, remote gorges with limpid blue waters and ledges to dive from.

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1 Lnguedoc For millenni, the Hérult nd Grd rivers hve chnnelled wter from the green mountins of the Mssif Centrl down to the hot, dry lowlnds. The Lnguedoc offers wonderful cverns, gorges nd springs s well s stunning rchitecture, from the mssive Romn Pont du Grd to the medievl beuty of Guilhem-le-Désert L Bume, Lnguedoc Grd 135

2 d-6610 Cmrès Cmrès MILLAU km d-996 d-996 d-7 d-7 St-Guilhem-le-Désert Lodève Lodève c b c b le Vign le Vign Cirque de Cirque Nvcelles de Nvcelles d-25 d-999 d-25 d-48 d d d-14 Gnges Gnges 97 d-25 d-14 d-32 d Anine Anine d-9 d-9 d d St-Mrtin-de-Londres d-32 d-986 d-986 d-907 d-907 d d n-106 d-50 d Lslle d-907 d 89 d b c Anduze ALÈS n-106 Lnguedoc -9 d-999 NÎMES 91 Russn d-22 d-6 d-982 d-981 d-901 d-979 Montclus 93 b Uzès d d-980 Bgnoles-sur-Cèze ORANGE Avignon 87 l bume, snilhc ARLES A lovey wlk to drmtic, remote gorges with limpid blue wters nd ledges to dive from. n-86 n pont du grd Romn queduct spns the river gorge. Best pproched t dusk by following the route of the ncient cnl, through olive groves. 90 cscde du sutdet The river tumbles into bubbling tubs nd pools nd there re plces for high dives. d-6-9 b 103 b 103 d-908 d-908 d-908 d-908 d-750 d-750 MONTPELLIER 92 bord de cèze A secluded fmily bech t the bottom of fields with cler wter nd ledges for lerning to dive. d-14 d-14 d d c c Roquebrun Roquebrun b b Murviel-lès-Béziers d-909 d gorges de l cèze Wonderful gorges nd gret, lid-bck cmpsite with hmmocks for relxing. 94 pont du dible Amzing gorges for dventure swims nd jumps. Close to exquisite St-Guilhem-le- Désert nd its fmous cves.

3 86 Plge de l Drille 84 Pont du Grd 86 I first sw the Pont du Grd from bove s I wlked through olive groves on wrm June evening, trcing the route of the originl queduct from Uzès. A continuous line of elegnt rches, stcked in three tiers, spnned the width of the Grdin in perfect combintion of form nd function. Built over 2,000 yers go to crry wter from Uzès to Nîmes distnce of 50 kilometres but with fll of just 17 metres the queduct ws one of the gret engineering chievements of the Romn er 84. The rches still ber the inscriptions nd symbols crved by the stone msons. Now mssive tourist ttrction, with prking for thousnds of crs nd huge visitor centre, the Pont du Grd is best pproched more indirectly nd on foot 86. Evening is gret time to pprecite the grndeur of the structure, followed by dip in the deep, indigo wter to wsh wy the het of the dy. Lower Grd 84 pont du grd lt long: , wlk in: 5 mins, esy One of the most fmous swimming spots in Frnce. A mgnificent multilevel Romn queduct spns the river. Low gorges provide rocks for sunbthing nd diving. From the A9 (J23), tke D981, then signed turn-off to huge nd very busy cr prk. Hed upstrem on pths through woods to lose some of the crowds. Or wlk from from upstrem (see Swim 86) nd descend through olive groves nd Romn ruins. 85 pont de collis lt long: , wlk in: 5 mins, esy Populr pools under bridge, set ginst red cliffs. From Pont du Grd continue W (D981, dir Uzès) nd fter 1.1km, turn L to Collis (D112). A good plce to hire cnoes ( Tourbillon E ). 86 plge de l drille lt long: , wlk in: 5 mins, esy Lrge river-bech with islnds nd deep section under cliff. From Pont du Grd turn L 100m before the D112 turning to Collis. After 1.2km turn second L on to Chemin de l Drille (signed Centre Equestre nd Bse de Plein Air). Follow this 800m, pst the riding centre, until rod bends hrd R by metl brrier. Prk nd continue down trck to bech. Pont du Grd lterntive 200m before the brrier, turn L insted nd follow rod 3km, pst lrge! Les Gorges du Grdon, hrd R, then R gin by big house before min rod (note no entry from min rod here), then pst L Begude St-Pierre, following yellow signs, to rech rod brrier on Chemin de Vlive ( , ). From here, mgicl wlk leds to Pont du Grd through olive groves, following the course of the ncient queduct. Prk t the brrier nd continue on rod, turn right into olive groves, following yellow footpth sign to Pont du Grd (1km). 87 l bume, snilhc lt long: , wlk in: 30 mins, moderte Wonderful cliffs, flt rocks nd clerwter swimming. Continue beyond Collis on D112 to Snilhc-Sgriès nd turn R opposite boulngerie. Prk nd continue up the trck (Site Clssé du Grdon signbord). Turn R t T-junction fter 500m nd follow yellow signs to L Bume 2.2km. The pth eventully descends into the Gorges du Grdon, with ruined buildings t L Bume. Plteu de St-Nichols upstrem, is surprisingly wild nd remote prt of the Grd. There re deep gorges nd menders but the river is often dry in summer. Try the remote nd wonderful mender beneth Le Cstéls. 2.9km S of Russn (D418) turn L t Le Mzet nd fter 1.2km tke trck L 500m down to the river, just before Ms des Chrlots ( , ). 138 Lnguedoc 139

4 89c Downstrem 88 89d Upstrem from here, towrds Collis 85, there re more river beches, then n re of militry lnd gives wy to series of further gorges tht re remrkbly wild nd untouched, given their proximity to the cities of Avignon nd Nîmes. If you wlk down through open countryside nd steep scrublnd into the gorges t L Bume 87, you ll come cross the crumbling remins of n bndoned hotel opposite the ruins of n ncient lime furnce. The crved rock ledges re temptingly positioned bove the clerest of wter, in plce so still you cn her your voice echo. Further upstrem the river cuts mgnificent menders through the wilderness of the Plteu de St-Nichols 87. Here, the flow of the Grd is trnsient, first running underground to leve the river bed dry nd strewn with boulders, then reppering in wonderful lgoons. From its source on the south-estern slopes of the Mssif Centrl, the Grd is known s the Grdon. Its two riverlets, Grdon de St-Jen 88 nd Grdon de Milet 89, gush through silvery gorges nd lp round gret flt boulders in n idyllic re for wild swimmers, with mix of smll beches nd deep stretches of wter, such s the nrrow Gorges de Soucy 88c. The river Cèze, in the northern prt of the region, nerer to the Ardèche, is well worth visit, with its picturesque villges, Hut Grdon 88 st-jen-du-grd lt long: , wlk in: 1 min, moderte Smooth rocks, little beches nd deep sections t Sutdou, populr rodside stretch long the Grdon de St-Jen. Sutdou is 2.3km W of St-Jendu-Grd on D907, t the junction of D260 (signed Le Pompidou, Corniche). Scrmble down to bnks. Excellent riverside! Ms de l Cm (E ) just upstrem. L Ecolette 2.7km further W on D907, 350m fter rod tunnel, there is little bech beneth fun mini-gorge with steep cliffs for jumping ( , ). By sign for! Chteu de l Hom. b Busss After further 3.7km, turn L (dir Busss) to find pool bove little bridge ( , ). Explore upstrem 300m (by rod if necessry) to find old suspension bridge nd more beches t bottom of gorge. c Gorges de Soucy re upstrem. Swim nd scrmble further 500m into their hert. Deep pools nd cliffs where kids jump ( , ). Also ccessible by very steep rough pth from smll lyby on D907 bove, S of picnic tbles. Or from GR61A on opposite bnk. d Mssiès 4km downstrem of St-Jendu-Grd, find smll bridge nd pools, on D284A turning ( , ) 89 pont des brines lt long: , wlk in: 10 mins, moderte The Grdon de Milet runs prllel nd N of the Grdon de St-Jen. Beutiful open gorges with pools nd beches. This elegnt bridge is 4km N of St-Jen-du- Grd on the D50. Continue 750m beyond bridge, up hill, to find rough prking nd lyby on R. Tke pth down on R by ruined stone hut. 89b Pont de l Rouquette L Affendou Continue 1.3km nd turn R to find good swimming t smll bridge ( , ) ner riverside! of sme nme (E ). b Pont de l Roquette 2km S of Milet (D50) hs deep pools, diving ledges nd djcent prking ( , ). Good for fmilies. Simple municipl riverside! L Roquette (E ) is 300m downstrem. Beutiful old Pont des Cmisrds is upstrem but the wter is shllow. c Le Ms du Pont bech nd gorge is further 3.5km long the rod. 100m fter Le Prdins nd 600m before the R Auberge les Trois Grbus, footpth on R leds down (500m) to shded picnic nd bech re, opp! Cévennes Provence. Busy but beutiful with deeper wter bove weir nd gorges below ( , ). d Slendrinque is tributry of the Grdon 10km to SW.! of sme nme, ner Lslle (D57), hs good bech nd wterflls ( , ). 140 Lnguedoc 141

5 94 pont du dible Lrge river pool below bridge nd long gorges bove 142 Lnguedoc 143

6 Cscde du Sutdet including Montclus 93 nd L Roque 90. At the Cscde de Sutdet 90 there re drmtic flls with deep pots of bubbling wter, chutes to slide down, cliffs for high-diving nd bech with deep wter for longer swim downstrem. Upstrem re clmer stretches of river with the crystlcler wter tht is typicl of the re. Les Concluses 91 is beutifully eroded rvine tht sometimes runs dry, but offers refreshing shde fter the prched scrublnd to the west. The Hérult, drining the southern Mssif Centrl, follows similr pttern to the Grd. Rising mong ok- nd sweetchestnut forests nd tumbling over boulders, its cler wters rush down through deep gorges to irrigte the Mediterrnen vineyrds of the Lnguedoc. Mke time to visit one of the most ttrctive villges in Frnce, St-Guilhem-le-Désert 94, which hs stunning Romnesque bbey church. It is n ustere but tmospheric building, only slightly diminished by the sle of its cloisters to New York in the 19th century. The beutifully preserved, terrcott-tiled dwellings nd flowerfilled grdens of St-Guilhem nestle close the Verdus strem which tumbles into the Hérult below. The long stretches of deep wter in this re, when not in flood, mke for superb dventure swimming. Explore nrrow gorges tht twist The Cèze 90 cscde du sutdet lt long: , wlk in: 3 mins, esy Populr nd drmtic set of flls with bubbling, jcuzzi-like plunge pools. Youths high-dive from limestone ledges while others chill out on the lrge bech downstrem. D980 from Bgnols, then L to pretty L Roque-sur-Cèze (D166). Turn L before bridge nd prk fter 600m. There is clmer wter, for longer swim, bove flls nd weir. 91 les concluses lt long: , wlk in: 15 mins, moderte 10km W on D166/D143 wter does not lwys flow in this beutiful eroded rvine, but it s worth exploring nywy. Between Lussn nd Verfeuil (D143/ D643). 10km upstrem on the Aiguillon, between Bouquet nd Nvcelles, the Gouffre des Aiguières ( , ) nd Les Petites Aiguières ( , ) 400m further hs smll deep pools with flls, fed by springs. 92 bord de cèze lt long: , wlk in: 3 mins, esy A gret little bech t the bottom of field with crystl-cler wter nd rock ledges opposite for jumping. Continue nother 7km on D980 from Cscde du Sutdet nd, 1.5km fter the first min turning (R) for St-Andréde-Roquepertuis, turn L between two white bollrds down ded-end rod, through fields 500m to river. The turning is 100m before minor rod to Soulouge which climbs up to the R, nd 1.5km before the second min turning to St- André-de-Roquepertuis. Pont de St-André, is 1.5km further on the D980. There is n old mill nd good bech with cnoe hire. Above is weir nd deep swimming beneth the drmtic white cliff spires of Roc de l Aiguille. ( , ). 93 gorges de l cèze lt long: , wlk in: 3 mins, esy Just downstrem of chrming hilltop villge of Montclus, the Cèze enters smll gorge with jde-green wters. Turn L off D980, on hill, 200m before turning for Montclus. Continue down 400m nd t R turn, before cmpsite, tke pth through trees under cliff, 200m to rock ledges. Also ccessible upstrem of Montclus bridge. The tiny riverside! Cmping Gorges des Cèze is very lid-bck with hmmocks under cci trees nd friendly old hippies (E ). Mréou plge is on wild section of the Cèze, populr with wild cmpers ( , ). It is often dry. 2km beyond Montclus (D901), turn L fter bridge nd junction for Monteils (R). b St Michelet is scred hillock on river bend with bech t Gourdgues (D371). Follow Chemin St-Michelet then Chemin de Brquet ( , ). 144 Lnguedoc 145

7 Chpel Notre-Dmes des Clns 94 Twin hilltops nd turn mong beutiful rock spires nd sculptures, or hire cnoes nd hed for the gret Pont du Dible 94, few kilometers downstrem its vst nturl pool nd bech ttrcts most of Montpellier t weekends. Cve enthusists might be tempted by the stlctities of the Grotte de Clmouse, reched by subterrnen river. Fortuntely, few tourist coches venture upstrem, on the sections of the Hérult towrds Gnges, so escpe the crowds nd mke for the bridge, gorges nd wild beches t tiny, peceful St-Étienne d Issensc 95. Here you cn swim downstrem in the gret lgoons of the dmmed Hérult, or explore the rpids nd wterflls bove. There re two idyllic, low-key cmpsites long this stretch 95, 95. One of the tributries of the Hérult, the Lmlou, flows down the remote Rvine des Arcs 96, with pools for erly summer swimming under the Grnd Arc. A further 10 kilometres to the est, up long the wonderful yet tiny tributry, the Buèges 100, is the pretty villge of St-Jen-de-Buèges, set round rocky spur with cstle nd nrrow lleys. Here, the strem emerges from springs deep in the mountins nd its iridescent, blue wters flow down to the Hérult through pretty cscdes nd woodlnd pools. The Hérult 94 pont du dible lt long: , wlk in: 5 mins, esy Huge pool nd bech with old nd new bridges. Impressive gorges upstrem for long swims nd high dives. St-Guilhemle-Désert, one of the best-preserved medievl villges in Frnce, is just upstrem. Also severl show cves. 4km from Anine on D27 (leve A750 from Montpelier t Gignc). Further populr swimming spots on D4, 5.5km N of St-Guilhem where rod leves river ( , ). Lc du Slgou is purple-tinged lke with red-erth beches, cliffs nd inlets, 20km to the SW on A750/A75. 6km NW of Clermont l Hérult, follow the D156 through Liusson nd, 2.1km beyond, turn R to the twin hilltop peninsuls ( , ). Or continue 1.4km to L Roque ( , ). Ruined villge of Celles ( , ) is worth exploring. Also, good pth long N shore, beneth chpel ( , 3.372). 95 st-étienne d issensc lt long: , wlk in: 2 mins, esy An ncient bridge spns the river by the chpel of St-Étienne. Some jump from cliffs nd others swim from the bech. 4.5km S of Brissc on D4. To find relly remote spot tke the forest trck R opp the church nd continue for up to 2km ( , ; , ). Or continue S on D4 up to 2km to find severl trcks off rod to L for quiet re with deep wter. Lovely riverside! Le Vl d Hérult ( E ). See lso L Buèges (Swim 100). Moulin Neuf is remote bech 2km S of Brissc on D4. Prk t Le Moulin Neuf gllery by bridge then ber L on signed pth up through woods nd 1km down to lrge bech opposite cliffs nd rock ledges ( , ). Excellent low-key riverside! Domine d Anglis (E ) is 1.8km N on D108, dir St-Buzille-de-Putois ( , ). 96 lroque lt long: , wlk in: 10 mins, esy Crved flt rocks for sunbthing, cler wters for snorkelling nd towering cliffs. Set by min rod with difficult prking. Often busy. 1.5km S of Lroque on D986. River is immeditely to R but limited prking. Continue 1km to Le Moulin cnoe centre, opposite turning to Les Grottes, nd prk or swim here ( , ). Fmous Grotte des Demoiselles, with its vst cverns nd eerie pools, is worth visit (turn L fter nother 1km) Also weir with swimming in Lroque itself, beneth br. Rvine des Arcs is 13km S on D986. Remote rvine which flows in erly summer with pools beneth Le Grnd Arc ( , ). Prk in remote cr prk t Pont de Msclc (over the Lmlou). Follow GR60 1.5km up hill to L, then ber R to descend 1km into rvine. 146 Lnguedoc 147

8 97 the vis Upstrem of the flls 95 le vl d hérult Riverside cmping t its best 148 Lnguedoc 149

9 Upstrem of wterfll 97 The Vis, nother tributry joins the Hérult from the west, further up t Gnges. Most people hed to the fun wterflls nd pools t nerby St-Lurent-le-Minier 97 but trip to the river s source, bove Cirque de Nvcelles t the Moulin de l Foux 98 is well worth the journey. In scene stright out of drk firy tle, the river erupts from ruined ncient mill, built inside cve tht is deep in cleft of the mountinside. The wter hs distinctive minerl-blue colour nd bthes the pools nd gorge in n etherel light. The Cirque itself, in the Prc Nturel Régionl du Hut Lnguedoc, is mightily impressive, especilly when viewed from the pproch rod, some 600 metres bove. Here the river gorges hve crved out wide, perfect ox-bow within the limestone cusse (plteu) of the mountin, leving n islnd hillock, on which the historic hmlet of Nvcelles sits 98. A spectculr wterfll with deep pool tumbles on downstrem. Heding west from the Hérult, the wrm, shllow wter of Lc de Slgou 94, with its Mrtin lndscpe of red dunes formed out of iron-rich erth, is stunning loction. There re mny plces long its wild shore to tke dip nd the ghostvillge of Celles bndoned when the lke ws creted, but never ctully submerged mkes n interesting diversion. The Vis 97 st-lurent-le-minier lt long: , wlk in: 2 mins, esy Superb nd populr swimming hole on the beutiful Vis. River flows over high weir/wterfll with deep pools nd rock ledges below. Cfé R nd cr prk djcent. Quieter, shdier spots off the rod immeditely upstrem. From Gnges tke D25 for 3.3km. Turn R on to D110 (dir St-Lurent) to find prking nd cscde on L. Continuing on D25, there is nother weir by the rodside fter 6km (Le Plnteyrol , ). Another 6km brings you to riverside picnic re t Le Grenouillet ( , ). Gorges de l Vis River is wilder from this point nd D25 climbs high bove. 3km fter the bridge t Mdières, just below the first turn nd L-hnd hirpin, find brred route privée trck. Follow it 300m nd tke steep footpth down through forest to R. At bottom ber R then L to rech remote pool in river, nd explore upstrem ( , ). 98 cirque de nvcelles lt long: , wlk in: 10 mins, moderte The tiny villge of Nvcelles occupies n enchnting position in the mountins. Huge wterfll nd culdron pool re gret for jumps, with mini-rock pools for bthing. Upstrem, the river bnks re populr for picnics nd pddling. Well-signed vi on the D130 from St- Murice-Nvcelles. After descending into the Cirque turn R into the villge nd prk by the church. Ber L for the bridge nd pddling, R for the wterfll. Moulin de l Foux is mgicl mill built t the resurgence of the Vis ( , ). It spouts freezing, but lmost luminous, blue wter from n underground cve into gorges below. Continue up vlley on D713 nd 2.5km beyond the Pont Submersible, on R-hnd hirpin, find pth off to the L. Follow for 1km. Big jumps re possible into the pool below. A beutiful spot but lso firly shdy, so best to visit during the morning. 99 le bvezon lt long: , wlk in: 10 mins, difficult 20km N there is delightful pool beneth smll cscde high in remote forest. Follow D158 from Blnds, L on to D999 then D232 R to Aumesss. From here follow D299, turn L fter 1.6km nd fter bout 2.5km find footpth R, fter Le Trvers. Follow this pth down to strem, 300m. 100 l buèges lt long: , wlk in: 10 mins, moderte Aqumrine spring wter wells up into limpid, shllow pool, 3.5km beyond St-Jen-de-Buèges. 5km S of the Vis, but ccessed from the Hérult. Downstrem of the villge shllow turquoise pools cscde through dppled woodlnd before wter disppers bck underground gin. 10km from Brissc (10km). See lso Swim 95 St-Étienne d Issenc, nerby Lnguedoc 151

10 98 cirque de nvcelles Wterfll below the villge 98 moulin de l foux The source of the river Vis 152 Lnguedoc

11 102 Roquebrun 103 Gouffre du Cerisier 101 At the end of long trck 102b Rock islnd The Orb is the lesser-known cousin of the Hérult, nd the the second lrgest river of the deprtment, drining its western qurters. The old town of Roquebrun hs populr riverbech 102, but hed downstrem to Cessenon 101, 101 for mixture of rock pools nd quieter beches. The climte here is mild nd the vineyrds re justly celebrted, so don t forget to try the wrd-winning red, St-Chinin, which you cn smple t the vrious domins in the surrounding countryside. The exotic Jrdin Méditerrnéen public prk is bove the river. Upstrem the river forms menders nd the pce is quicker, mking this n excellent stretch for cnoeing, especilly from the mill nd bridge t Trssc. Here, in the south of the Prc Regionl du Hut Lnguedoc, two nerby rvines nd their tributries Gorges d Héric 103 nd Gorges de l Colombière 103 offer good choice of mountin plunge-pools, sprkling between gret boulders nd overlooked by the shrp peks of the Monts d Espinouse tht seem to pierce the white clouds. My fvourite is the enticingly nmed Gouffre du Cerisier (Cherry Tree Pool), which conjures up visions of plunging into sweet, cler mountin wter. The Orb 101 réls lt long: , wlk in: 1 min, esy An exciting combintion of lesser-known beches, rock formtions nd deep pools, just off the rod. Turn R off D14, 2.7km S of Cessenonsur-Orb, dir Murviel-lès-Béziers. After 1.8km, nd 200m fter electricity sttion, find lyby on L nd pths to rocks for dventurous swimming. Continue pst R Auberge de Réls (simple, well-cooked food E ) to the bridge for gentle bech with shllows nd longer deep sections. Populr with fmilies. Lugné Upstrem of Cessenon. Turn R on to trck, Chemin de l Rivière, 200m S of Lugné (opp bus stop), then to T-junction t river. Turn R nd 50m on L leds down to river; swim cross to wild river bech ( , ). Turn L nd fter 1km, when trck reches end of fields, find pth in corner down to secret bech re ( , ). Or explore on trcks from Col de l Vernède (2.2km), Borie de Berln. 102 chpel notire lt long: , wlk in: 1 min, esy An idyllic length of bech under trees by pretty chpel set in the fields. Turn L t cross rods 1km S of Roquebrun, before hill strts to rise, opp 6km bends sign. Continue 350m. Roquebrun is fun nd very busy bech with gentle weir. Esy prking, good for children ( , ). b Mynrd 4.5km S of Roquebrun on opposite bnk (D19). Turn R t old hydro sttion/weir. Continue 500m to find smll beches nd rock islnd on R ( , ). Or ccess vi Col de l Vernède (see Swim 101, Lugné). c Ceps Picnic re by bridge with long bech 5km upstrem of Roquebrun ( , ). d Vieussn Follow trck opposite chpel 200m to bech beneth cliffs ( , ) or wlk 1km further upstrem ( , ).! Le Clps (E ) is 4km upstrem ( , ) 103 gorges d héric lt long: , wlk in: 30 mins, moderte Gouffre du Cerisier hs jde-green plunge pool nd wterfll, set mong the towering spires of the Croux. Mny other pools en route. Continue upstrem from Vieussn, cross the bridge t Moulin de Trssc (cnoe hire ), turn L (D908) then R to Mons. Follow signs for Verdier Hut. Prking 3. Follow brred rod up the vlley for 2km. There is lso deep pool just downstrem of the cr prk (climb down through woods 100m to , ). Gorges de Colombières is 6.5km to E on the D908. Pools nd wterfll in gorges. Prk beyond the school nd follow the pth 300m to find the first min pool ( , ) b Pont du Dible in Olrgues 6.5km to W on the Jur, with bech below the bridge. Deeper swimming 50m upstrem bove weir (ccess from R bnk). 154 Lnguedoc 155