Gabriele Prenzlau-Enander

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Gabriele Prenzlau-Enander KING VALDEMAR S SAILING ROUTE THE OLDEST SAILING ROUTE IN THE BALTIC SEA REGION THE DANISH ITINERARY The medieval book King Valdemar s jordabok can be found in the Danish

1 Gabriele Prenzlau-Enander KING VALDEMAR S SAILING ROUTE THE OLDEST SAILING ROUTE IN THE BALTIC SEA REGION THE DANISH ITINERARY The medieval book King Valdemar s jordabok can be found in the Danish National Library in Copenhagen. It consists of various texts from the Middle Ages. One text mentions the names of more than one hundred places along the Baltic coastline of Sweden, Finland and Estonia. This two and a half page text in Latin, written on parchment with carefully designed letters, is called the Danish Itinerary. It contains the information that led to the discovery of the oldest sailing route in the Baltic Sea, today known as King Valdemar s sailing route. The Itinerary could be called a reading map since it is basically a list of names from the south coast of Sweden to Tallinn in Estonia. The earliest graphic maps in Scandinavia were not drawn until the 17th century. Itinerary is Latin and means nautical description. This Itinerary, covering the route from Utlängan in the south of Sweden to Tallinn in Estonia, is called the Danish Itinerary. The characteristic design of the Itinerary shows that it was most likely written around the year However, according to the contents, it was probably copied from a text dating back to the beginning of 13th century when King Valdemar II ruled. Valdemar II contributed to the establishment of Denmark as a great power during his reign (probably ). His Danish empire was made up of Denmark, the Swedish counties Skåne, Blekinge, Halland as well as the northern part of present Germany and Poland. The Volmer battle that took place in Tallinn in 1219 resulted in the conquest of Estonia, and Estonia remained Danish for more than a hundred years. Valdemar II got the surname Sejr the Winner due to his grand conquests. KING VALDEMAR II OF DENMARK King Valdemar II began ruling during the transition from heathen beliefs to Christianity. Denmark had already officially adopted Christianity and willingly assisted in promoting Christianity to the unfaithful neighbouring people. The Christian Church encouraged all crusades against heathen people. He therefore established an unusually large naval fleet. The previously mentioned conquest of Estonia in the Volmer The Itinerary of King Valdemar II of Denmark. 177

battle was a way for King Valdemar II to receive the blessing of the Church and also to secure the important trade routes eastward.

Later this sign also became the red and white design of the Danish flag. WHY WAS THE ITINERARY WRITTEN? Tallinn It is difficult to say why this Itinerary was written and how it was used.

The descriptions in Latin were intended to be read by educated people and not by sailors.

2 battle was a way for King Valdemar II to receive the blessing of the Church and also to secure the important trade routes eastward. The Medieval Chronicle implies that the heavenly powers practically helped King Valdemar II to victory. It says that he received a sign called the Dannebrogen which led him to victory. Later this sign also became the red and white design of the Danish flag. WHY WAS THE ITINERARY WRITTEN? Tallinn It is difficult to say why this Itinerary was written and how it was used. However, the structure of the text and the brief nautical descriptions suggests that it is a typical product of a monastery. The descriptions in Latin were intended to be read by educated people and not by sailors. The sailors in medieval times probably trusted the local population s advice more than the nautical descriptions in a document. These descriptions are most likely composed from many different sources as they sometimes overlap and change character. For example, distance is sometimes stated as a week sea, whereas in other parts only the names of the places are stated. The route through Åland, Åboland and Finland is more comprehensively described than other parts. Recent research has focused on trying to find any similarities between the places that are mentioned in the Itinerary. Could they have been places with sheltered harbours, or places where help with navigation could be received? Maybe they were places for reloading goods? Some researchers propose that the places mentioned only represent seamarks that were passed along the sailing route. Another relevant question is who actually used the sailing route? Was it Danish merchant ships, war ships or courier ships? Maybe the sailing descriptions are a documentation or composition of a well known sailing route that was of importance for the people in power or the Church. The distance between Utlängan and Tallinn is about 525 nautical miles, and most likely it took around three weeks to sail the complete route. Perhaps it was even quicker during spring and summer when the nights where light enough for traditional navigation. Without modern navigation equipment it is very dangerous, if not impossible, to sail the route during the dark months of the year. 100 NAMES ALONG THE COAST FROM THE 13TH CENTURY Kalmar The nautical descriptions start at Utlängan (Utlengi in Latin) in the southern county of Blekinge in Sweden. During the Middle Ages, the border between Denmark and Sweden went through Blekinge. The last place mentioned is Tallinn (Räulburg in Latin) in Estonia. The text is a brief description of the sailing route between the named places. The distance is sometimes measured in week seas (this will be explained further down). 178

Here follows a short translation of the beginning of the text: From Utlängan to Kalmar 10 week seas. From there to Skäggenäs 2 week seas. From there to Vållö 4.

3 Here follows a short translation of the beginning of the text: From Utlängan to Kalmar 10 week seas. From there to Skäggenäs 2 week seas. From there to Vållö 4. If you want to follow the coast you can go from Vållö to Runnö, which is 1 week seas from Vållö. From there to The names of 79 places along the Swedish coast, all the way up to Arholma, are listed in a similar manner. From Arholma, which is in the northern part of Stockholm s archipelago, there follows 18 names of places in Åland and Finland. The route then turns south across the Gulf of Finland, lists four places in Estonia and finishes in Tallinn. The last listed place, Tallinn, is the current capital of Estonia, and Tallinn means The Danish castle in Estonian. King Valdemar II of Denmark built a Danish castle for defence on the highest hill. Only three towns are mentioned in the text: Kalmar, Stockholm and Tallinn. The remaining names are mainly islands, straits, bays or mainland. The majority of the places have been identified and can be pointed out on a map. Many places still have the same name today. It is fascinating to imagine that all these named places were familiar to the coastal population as early as during the Middle Ages. These medieval names are often the oldest historical evidence of an island s name. The coastal districts were probably of greater importance then than they are today. The Itinerary mentions alternate routes through the Stockholm archipelago; one inner route and one outer route. The inner route closely follows the mainland and passes close to Stockholm. The outer route leads onto more open water and passes islands all the way to 179

Arholma. Additional information can be found next to certain names.

Arholma to Hangö. MEASURING DISTANCES IN WEEK SEAS Aluett, a full size replica of a trading ship from the 13th century, copied from archaeological remains found at Kalmar.

Island Vinterklasen Recent research has attempted to identify how many metres a week sea represented by measuring the distance between mentioned places. However, the results vary.

The word week sea is an old Nordic word and is believed to be derived from the expression vika sig, which means to rest in English.

4 Arholma. Additional information can be found next to certain names. For example, next to Arholma it is written: the route from Utlängan to Arholma leads more to the north than to the east, and further more: one can, in a steady westerly breeze, sail straight from Arholma to Hangö. MEASURING DISTANCES IN WEEK SEAS Aluett, a full size replica of a trading ship from the 13th century, copied from archaeological remains found at Kalmar. In the summer of 1996 Aluett sailed from Utlängan to Tallin. Island Vinterklasen Recent research has attempted to identify how many metres a week sea represented by measuring the distance between mentioned places. However, the results vary. Today we would never accept a varying length measurement, but our view of distance has changed considerably since the Middle Ages. The word week sea is an old Nordic word and is believed to be derived from the expression vika sig, which means to rest in English. According to that thought a week sea ought to be the distance a team of rowers could cover before they had to rest or change rowing teams. Researchers have calculated that the average length of a week sea is 4.2 nautical miles which is approximately 8 kilometres (1 nautical mile = metres). The measuring of nautical distances in week sea was accepted in the Baltic Sea and inland waters during the Middle Ages. The term week sea was not only used by the Nordic people; the Hansa ships have also been found using the term. THE MEANING OF THE NAMES Many of the names that researchers have analysed consist of simple natural terms that describe the distinctive character of each island. For example, Runmarö in the Stockholm Archipelago is called Rudmi, which means the red island. Väggön Waeggi, south of the Stockholm Archipelago, has been given the name The wall island due to the noticeable steep slope on the island. The island which we today call Husarö (house island), in the outer parts of Stockholm Archipelago, was mentioned as Husarn, most likely due to the fact that there were houses on the island. Stendor sund (stonedoor straight) is a very shallow and stony straight, which today we call Stendörren. There are also names that are difficult to analyse and places that cannot be identified. For example, we still do not know why the island Vinterklasen, Winterclasae in the Itinerary, was called just that. KING VALDEMAR S SAILING ROUTE THE PROJECT The aim of the project is to make the coastal cultural heritage more visible, the heritage that fishermen, farmers and seamen from near and far have left in the coastal regions of the Baltic. Through demonstrating the values of the cultural heritage in our coastal districts, the project hopes to be able to support the local communities. Island Landsort 180

Along the route there are many different types of monuments to be found, including lighthouses, medieval labyrinths and other buildings or seamarks used for navigation.

Here you will find writing several hundred years old, carved on the rocks by sailors waiting for better weather.

5 Along the route there are many different types of monuments to be found, including lighthouses, medieval labyrinths and other buildings or seamarks used for navigation. The visible cultural monuments in the coastal areas are very different from the monuments found inland. The coastal monuments are very closely connected to shipping, fishing and barren nature. Here you will find writing several hundred years old, carved on the rocks by sailors waiting for better weather. You will find medieval labyrinths, you will find various kinds of navigation marks, and you will find lighthouses and old defence foundations, to name just a few. The project King Valdemar s Sailing Route was initiated by the Swedish National Heritage Board in From that time, every county, from Blekinge in the south to Stockholm in the north, has produced information materials such as maps and brochures as well as large information boards that are positioned close to sailing harbours and places of cultural interest. The information boards have texts and pictures illustrating the specific cultural history of the island or headland, as well as general information regarding the complete King Valdemar s sailing route. The cross-border contacts between Åland, Finland and Estonia developed and generated co-operation in other projects as well. THE ACTIVE YEARS, The official openings for the project were held in each of the participating counties in June The media coverage was notable and each of the different counties had individual opening activities. Nynäshamn, just south of Stockholm, organised a medieval day with medieval markets, dances and even a parade of reconstructed medieval boats in the harbour. In Kalmar, ships were sailing north to visit the harbours listed in the Itinerary. The Maritime Museum in Karlskrona had a life-size copy of a trading ship from the 13th century built. The design was copied from archaeological remains from Kalmar. The ship was called Aluett and is 11 metres long and weighs 15 tons with ballast; the type is the predecessor of the Cog. The boat sailed from Utlängan to Tallinn in the summer of The journey took two months as she was very heavy and difficult to row. In the summer of 1996, a cultural historical group sailing along the Itinerary route was organised for pleasure boats. It started in Oxelösund and finished in Hangö in Finland. Each morning the crews were invited to a guided walk to see the local cultural and historic places of interest. A small exhibit about the route was also shown in Stockholm, Mariehamn, Åbo and St. Petersburg. Co-operation between the museums in Åland and Finland in 1996 led to the production of a folder with a tar coated string. The folder illustrates the sailing route through the archipelagoes of Stockholm, Åland and Åboland. This brochure inspired the southern counties Blekinge, Kalmar and Östergotland to jointly produce a similar product in The project King Valdemar s Sailing Route has attracted much attention in radio shows, other mass media and boat shows. The project has led to the repainting of valuable rock carvings and inspired further research. For example, recent archaeological excavations on Landsort discovered that the island probably has been inhabited since 500 AD. Approximately 75 information boards have been put up along the Baltic coast. They contain information about cultural monuments like churches, chapels, windmills, cottages, villages, old house foundations, stone labyrinths, rock carvings, ancient graves and old mines, to name just a few. The specific location of the boards was often chosen in close co-operation with the respective local government, local associations or property owner who would be responsible for the continuous maintenance of the site. The project is being referred to in different home pages on the Internet. And it is frequently mentioned in new literature about the archipelago. So after 10 years, the Valdemar sailing route has become established and quite well known. 181

Seventy-five information boards have been set up along the Baltic coast. These contain information about the cultural monuments found along the route.

These were tied together with a tar coated string. A NEW TOURIST ROUTE? The project King Valdemar s Sailing Route has been inactive since 2000.

It would be beneficial to the local population if it was implemented on a small-scale. Tourists could visit the islands by foot or bike and be introduced to the local produce.

On the other hand, even a bus tour would sometimes be too large for the small and often delicate islands.

6 Seventy-five information boards have been set up along the Baltic coast. These contain information about the cultural monuments found along the route. The launch of the project involved various activities including a medieval market (seen here), medieval dancing and a parade of medieval boats. Brochures illustrating the sailing route were produced. These were tied together with a tar coated string. A NEW TOURIST ROUTE? The project King Valdemar s Sailing Route has been inactive since The information boards are being maintained but the exhibition is in storage. The local population knows about the sailing route, but the question is whether it can be made into a tourist route. It would be beneficial to the local population if it was implemented on a small-scale. Tourists could visit the islands by foot or bike and be introduced to the local produce. There have been proposals for tourist s cruisers that would travel along the King Valdemar route, but the disadvantage is that they would only visit the larger harbours. On the other hand, even a bus tour would sometimes be too large for the small and often delicate islands. My view is that visits by families or small groups would be ideal for the local communities as they could benefit from offering guided tours, food and accommodation. One way to attract visitors to the islands would be to open a dedicated home page on the internet. The site would have maps over the whole route as well as more detailed regional maps. The visitors would be able to select areas of interest and access specific information about nature, culture, accommodation and food in several languages and illustrated with pictures. The implementation of this project would require a project manager as well as funding for the development of the multimedia home page. 182

Day 1 : WELCOME TO THE CAPITAL OF FINLAND. Day 2 : FROM CITY TO SEA MAGIC. HIGHLIGHTS: Helsinki.

A TALE OF FOUR CITIES ITINERARY Day 1 : WELCOME TO THE CAPITAL OF FINLAND On arrival at Helsinki airport, you will be met and transferred to your comfortable hotel in the heart of the city. If you arrive