Khaii Luk Tshik (Travaillant Creek)

Transcription

1 G Gwich'in Social & Cultural Institute Fort McPherson, NWT Nomination Form for Territorial Historic Sites Khaii Luk Tshik (Travaillant Creek) George Cummings, William Clark, Beth Clark, Dale Clark (rabbit skin snowsuit), Winnie Clark. Photo credit: Dale and Rose Clark. Khaii Luk Tshik. Photo credit: K Benson, GSCI

2 MANDATORY INFORMATION What is the name of the site you are nominating? Khaii Luk Tshik is the traditional Gwich'in name for the area around the outlet of Travaillant Creek 1 where it enters the Mackenzie River. When people say Travaillant River or Travaillant Creek, they are generally referring to this location rather than the whole creek. It was a small traders camp and community known for its large gardens and strategic location to numerous important old-time trails connecting hunting, fishing, and trapping areas to the Mackenzie River. Does the site have a story? If so, what is it? Khaii Luk Tshik is centered in the cultural and physical landscape of the Gwichya Gwich in (now residing largely in Tsiigehtchic, NWT). Located along Nagwichoonjik the Mackenzie River the site has seen mythical giants and medicine men moving by its shores, been passed by countless generations of Gwich in heading out hunting, fishing, and gathering berries, watched the earliest trappers and traders travel by foot and dog sled, been visited by early explorers, housed a small trading community complete with large sub-arctic gardens, seen the influx of Europeans to the area and acted as a trail-head for Gwich in travelling towards Khaii Luk Travaillant Lake, an important fishing area. The trading post in the area was occupied from around 1927 to the mid-1950s. Originally, only the east shore was occupied, although there were trading posts on both sides of the mouth of Travaillant River during the later years. During the years it was a trading post, it was the main commercial centre for the area, being an important fall stop-over place. Today this location is an important stop for river travelers in the summer. In the late 1990s Peter Clark and Maureen Clark of Tsiigehtchic put up a structure that can be used as an emergency shelter. Geographic Setting Khaii Luk Tshik is located on the right shore of the Mackenzie River, about 120 km (75 miles) up the Mackenzie from Tsiigehtchic. It is at the mouth of the creek draining Khaii Luk (Travaillant Lake) and its watershed. The river comes from Khaii Luk, a large lake also known as Travaillant Lake. The creek exits Khaii Luk at a place called Teedhaa (meaning air hole indicating the outlet does not freeze all winter and there is Khaii Luk Tshik from the Mackenzie River in the fall. Photo credit: GRRB 1 Travaillant is locally pronounced TRA vee er 1

3 Gwich in Place Names around Khaii Luk Tshik Khaii Luk Travaillant Lake. Name translates as winter fish and refers to an important food resource used by the Gwich in: fish available in the fall and winter in the thousands. See map, page five. Khaii Luk Tshik Mouth of Travaillant River where it meets the Mackenzie River. Translates as The mouth of winter fish [lake] creek Nagwichoonjik The Mackenzie River. Translates as Big Country River. Gwich in Words used in this document Gwichya Gwich in refers to the Gwich in now residing largely in the community of Tsiigehtchic. Khaii Luk Gwich in refers to a historic group of Gwich in who overwintered in the area around Khaii Luk. Ts ii dęįį refers to a time far in the past when people and animals had special powers, were equal and could communicate freely. Legendary travelers and adventurers lived during these times. open water). Teedhaa, and other areas along Travaillant River that are open all winter, are fishing locations. The river empties into Andrew Lake, a fish lake, and flows by, passing another fish lake called Gugwijaanaii (meaning it broke through ). The river flows to the east and back west again along a U-shaped trajectory and joins with a small creek draining Big Lake and Sucker Lake both known for muskrats and suckers before exiting into the Mackenzie River at Khaii Luk Tshik. Cultural Setting Ts ii deįį time the earliest days of the land Several great leaders and travellers from Gwich in legends and stories travelled up and down the Mackenzie River in pursuit of battle or adventure. For example, Atachuukaįį was a great Gwich in leader during Ts ii deįį times He s a big man. Maybe 15 feet high. 2 There are numerous accounts of his travel and ability as a warrior. At one time, a giant named Ch ii Choo was chasing Atachuukaįį from Fort Yukon in what is now the Yukon Territory all the way up the Mackenzie River past the Ramparts near Fort Good Hope. The landscape still bears the evidence of his journey giant footsteps filled as lakes, a large island is an overturned canoe left by Atachuukaįį. Prehistoric time Khaii Luk Tshik was used by the Gwich in for thousands of years before it became a trading post. The site has always been an important trail head and fall stop-over place. Before the Fur Trade, the Khaii Luk Gwich in (refers to people who wintered at Travaillant Lake) travelled to the bountiful lakes in the Khaii Luk watershed to overwinter. When travelling to Khaii Luk and other areas to the north of the Mackenzie River, some travellers would leave the Mackenzie River here and travel inland along well-established trails (see Figure 3). They travelled from various summer camps to the area on foot as many people did not have dogs for packing or pulling until the fur trade days. The families living at the many lakes in the Khaii Luk region relied mainly on fish for their survival. This fact influenced the way of life of the Khaii Luk Gwich'in: Families who were able to catch enough fish in the same area over an extended period of time, did not need to travel on the land as much. Even the kinds of winter shelters used by many ts'ii deii families living here, show that this was so. Unlike the skin tents used in the 2 Gabe Andre, Tape 1, July 29, 2008, Khaii Luk Tshik Nomination Project 2

4 mountains up the Arctic Red [River], the houses used around the Khaii Luk area were not intended to be taken along at all. The families who built them meant to stay in one and the same place for some time (Heine et al 2007: 130 1). Boats that were tracked (pulled) up the Mackenzie River with long ropes would be left at Khaii Luk Tshik as travellers left the Mackenzie River and headed to their winter camps. Pack dogs, when available, were loaded with supplies and equipment. Gabe Andre remembers hearing stories of his grandmother, named Shinaghan Shoh (Old Bear Woman) tracking a boat up the Mackenzie River from Tsiigehtchic to Fort Good Hope barefoot. 3 During winter, the Gwich in pulled sleds by hand when travelling with a load. Among other types, they probably used moose leg skin or caribou leg skin sleds in the winters these sleds were very slippery and easy to pull across the snow (see box, this page). For more information on the trails used by the Gwich in, see the section on trails, below. Six recorded archaeological sites are within the immediate area around the mouth of the river. These sites include the actual trading post area itself, Big Hyacinthe s grave, the cabins where George Hurst lived, and several other sites. The sites are generally historic but some prehistoric features have been identified. The sites are characterized by depressions in the ground, caches, animal bones, tools, religious items, hearths, tent clearings, foundations, cabins, and other artefacts and features. Caribou or moose leg skin sleds Caribou or moose leg skin sleds were traditionally used by Gwich in to pack belongings during winter travel. Not as big as toboggans, they were often pulled by people rather than dogs. These sleds were generally about six to eight feet in length. The leg skin sleds were constructed with the hair side out, which was extremely slippery on the ice and snow. The main body was made of leg skins sewn together. The rim of the sled was made of tanned moose skin. The lacing at the rim of the sled and the bag strap were made of raw cleaned caribou skin. The rope on the sled wrapper was made of braided babiche. People packed belongings in these sleds, and sometimes people rode in them. Kids enjoyed taking them sliding when empty, though parents discouraged this because it hastened the hair wearing off! Photo: Miniature replica of caribou leg skin sled made by Robert Francis. Text: adapted from Lyons, Gabe Andre Tape 1, July 29, 2008, Khaii Luk Tshik Nomination Project 3

5 Figure 1. Select names places around Khaii Luk Tshik 4

6 Historical time Alexander Mackenzie arrived into Gwichya Gwich in territory in July 1789, preceding the advent of the fur trade by several years. The fur trade marked a shift in the lifestyle of the Gwichya Gwich in. Although they still relied upon the land and their knowledge of it for their livelihood, they now participated in a barter economy. The use of dog teams for travel assumed a great importance and the use of sugar, flour, tea, tobacco, copper pots, and other non-traditional goods became integrated into the Gwichya Gwich in lifestyle (Heine et al 2007). The earliest direct fur trade in Gwichya Gwich in territory was at Khaii Luk Tshik. Although the Gwichya Gwich in had been trading indirectly through the people further up the Mackenzie River and along the Arctic coast, in 1806 an early trader travelled to Trading River to trade directly a very successful endeavour (Heine et al 2007). The entry for Travaillant River in Petitot s Toponymic Inventory indicates that inhabitants at Fort Good Hope would travel to Trading River, which was in fact what we now know as Travaillant River, At that time [Fort Good Hope] was the most remote trading post in North America, and was intended solely for the Loucheux or Dindjié Indians. The Canadians serving the fort never ventured beyond the rivière de la Traite (Trading River), which since then has had the name Canadien Travaillant (Working Canadian); it is the Loucheux s Rallougou-tschig. (Savoie 2001) The spelling Rallougoutschig may be an alternate spelling of Khaii Luk Tshik. After the fur trade became a permanent feature in Gwichya Gwich in territory, several traders found Khaii Luk Tshik to be an ideal location for their stores. These traders and their camps are explored more fully below. Traders: George Hurst, William Clark, Bill McNeely, Others Agatha Clark, Emma Clark, Daria McNeely. Photo credit Dale and Rose Clark. The following traders worked from Khaii Luk Tshik during its active commercial years (Usher 1971). They were all trappers who also had trading establishments: 5

7 Unoccupied West Side East Side William (Billy) Clark, an independent trader originally from Scotland, set up a trading post at this location. Clark sold the post around 1939 and moved to Tsiigehtchic where he had another commercial enterprise. Clark lived at Travaillant River with his Gwichya Gwich in wife Vileh or Agatha Bluecoat and their children, Emma, Winnie, Beth, Dale, Allie, Irma, William, James (Harold), and Rita. Dale and William were born here. Dale remembers living at Khaii Luk Tshik for thirteen years before leaving in 1939 to move to Tsiigehtchic. 4 Jack K. Shurer, also an independent trader, may have lived at Khaii Luk Tshik during this period. 5 Jack married Emma Clark, daughter of Agatha and Billy Clark. George Hurst had a trading post on the west side at some point during this period. He had a family that lived with him as well, including George Hurst Jr., and Bobby Hurst. Cliff Hagen bought the post on the west side from Hurst in the 1950s. then later on, Cliff Hagen, he bought that establishment out from Hurst and they lived there for a number of years. 6 Other residents of the post are described below, and many people would stop in and stay for short periods of time Unknown William (Bill) McNeely purchased the trading post from Billy Clark and moved his family to the place. When they left the post, they moved to Fort Good Hope where members of the family still remain. The children of Daria and Bill McNeely include John, Winston, Wilfred, Wanda, and Nowella Jewel. McNeely had a Gwich in wife, Daria, 7 and a family that lived with him at least part-time at the post. Other residents are also discussed below. Bill McNeely came north with well-known Mackenzie Delta resident Roy Wright, Tommy Wright s father. Bill McNeely and my Dad, they came to this country together. 8 4 Dale Clark, Tape 21, November 5, 2004, Gwich'in Traditional Knowledge of the MGP Area 5 Jim Pierrot, Tape 79, December 6, 2004, Gwich'in Traditional Knowledge of the MGP Area 6 Winston McNeely, Tape 85, December 7, 2004, Gwich'in Traditional Knowledge of the MGP Area 6

8 There was no other commercial enterprise at Khaii Luk Tshik after the McNeely family left and moved to Fort Good Hope. Personalities and Community The Clarks were known as being very generous. Hyacinthe Andre remembered, Early in the fall we moved up to Khaii Luk. We stayed right across from Old Clark at the mouth of Khaii Luk. His wife s name Vileh ; she s the daughter of Ach ah. She knows my wife. They used to look after my wife when she was single. Before that my wife told me, We ll go and stay with these people, so we stayed with them all winter around Khaii Luk and they looked after us well. When I go down to visit them, they always give me something to take back home with me. They do this for my wife. We stayed there all winter and spring. 9 Tsiigehtchic Elder Dale Clark remembers when he was growing up at the trading post, Hyacinthe lived there for several years, Yeah, remember Travaillant, and my dad had a trading post there. Your dad [Hyacinthe Andre] lived two years with us there, at Travaillant, Hyacinthe. Mostly my dad used to trap, up as far as Thunder River and down below Smith's Cabin. And we d trap in there when I first start trapping. And your dad was the first one who showed me how to set rat traps. So that s where I started trapping. 10 Sarah Peters also told of Clark s generosity when she was travelling, newly widowed, up the Mackenzie River with Hyacinthe Andre, We finally reached Billy Clark's camp where he had a store, garden, and a house. He was also a trapper with a big family. We once again camped overnight. Hyacinthe's wife told me, "We are going to move to the east side by land with dog packs soon. If you go with us. You'll have a tough time so it s best you stay here with these people. After freeze up, my husband will come back for you by dog team and that way it will be easier for you." So I stayed at Billy Clark's camp with him and his family. Many times he gave my children and I a meal and gave us all kinds of food and fish. 11 Later in the same story Sarah Peters recalled returning to the Clark s to trade in furs and getting the same hospitality, I had enough furs to sell so I took my youngest girl with me to sell furs to Billy Clark. It took me two days to reach his camp. His daughters helped me with my child and told me to come into the house where it was nice and warm. They gave me a good meal and a 7 Daria was a Gwichya Gwich in woman, the sister of Edward Nazon and Simon Modeste. Gabe Andre, Tape 11, July 15, 1992, Gwichya Gwich in Places Names Project Tommy Wright, April 13, 2007, Aklavik Heritage Sites Project. 9 Hyacinthe Andre, Tape 1, July 31 st 1989, Arctic Red River Oral History Project. Translated from Gwich in. 10 Dale Clark, Tape 21, November 5, 2004, Gwich'in Traditional Knowledge of the MGP Area 11 Sarah Peters, COPE Story, Travaillant Lake and Travaillant River 7

9 place to sleep. I sold my furs and got what I needed from the store. 12 The generosity of the Clark s also made an impression on Sarah Peter s daughter Eunice Mitchell, There was lots of fish after freeze-up. They caught lots of big fish. The Mackenzie fish are really big. They had big whitefish eggs and we picked stone berries. That was plentiful too. We were really living well. Lots of rabbits. Life was just so wonderful. 13 Several Elders mentioned travelling to stay with the Clarks over Christmas. 14 Tsiigehtchic Elder Antoine Andre remembered that the Clarks did well commercially. Further up river was old man Clark very wealthy. He had a big garden and also a store. Ah, he had everything, was wealthy. He even had steamboat land at his place. 15 The steamboats carried supplies up the Mackenzie River. They used vast amounts of cordwood as fuel and some residents of Khaii Luk Tshik would cut cordwood for the steamboats to earn money. Gabe Andre remembers hearing about Khaii Luk Tshik residents and other hunters going to an island on the Mackenzie to hunt spring geese. Billy Clark, at 82 years of age, decided to run his dogs to Tsiigehtchic to get more shells for the hunters a very long trip! Before they go ahead they had no shells so he hooked up his four dogs, he went to Arctic Red. One night round-trip. Four dogs. Bring big loads of shells back. Sell it to all them guys. 16 Before the traders at Khaii Luk Tshik were open for business, and before repeating rifles were available, the Gwich in used muzzle-loader firearms for hunting. The muzzle-loaders replaced the bow and arrow even though it took time and skill to re-load properly. Billy Clark was known as a very hard-working and tough man. His children were all hard workers as well it is said that he wouldn t let his sons wear gloves, You got to have tough hands. You got to work all day, work without gloves. 17 Clark would cut enough wood for the winter for his family with a Swede saw. George Hurst was also a trapper and had a trading post on the west side of the mouth of Travaillant Creek. John McNeely remembered trader George Hurst, I know old George used to be over on this side Yeah we stayed like that for a long time. Them on one side of the creek, and lots on the other side. 18 Hurst s children include Bobby, Florence and George Jr. He stayed at the camp from the 1940s to the 1950s. 12 Sarah Peters, COPE Story, Travaillant Lake and Travaillant River 13 Eunice Mitchell, Transcript 38.1, April 6, 1983, Preparing Foods and Travelling up the Mackenzie 14 Sarah Peters, COPE Story, Travaillant Lake and Travaillant River ; Eunice Mitchell, Long Story, GSCI Elder s Biography Project 15 Antoine Andre, Tape 8, March 1999, Googwandak Transcripts 16 Gabe Andre Tape 1, July 29, 2008, Khaii Luk Tshik Nomination Project 17 Gabe Andre Tape 1, July 29, 2008, Khaii Luk Tshik Nomination Project 18 John McNeely, Tape 81, December 6, 2004, Gwich'in Traditional Knowledge of the MGP Area 8

10 The community at Khaii Luk Tshik was variable but welcoming. James Simon remembered that his sister Sarah McLeod-Firth stayed at Khaii Luk Tshik when they were younger and he lived with his family further up the Mackenzie at a camp at Thunder River. Well, when I grew up that time there was six of us, when my sister was there too, Sarah, but her, she stayed with our cousins William McNeely and Wanda. Most of the time she stayed there. Just once in a while she come up to Thunder River, spend a week or two with us and then she goes back out and stay at Travaillant. 20 Other people stayed at Khaii Luk Tshik as well. While reminiscing about the trading post during a recent boat visit there, Elder Gabe Andre remembered one family that would overwinter at Khaii Luk, and spend the summers at Khaii Luk Tshik. Old Pascal Baptiste, his dad [Ramatiste Pascal] used to live at Travaillant Lake. He lived out there all winter and he come here in the summer and he go down to do summer fishing, you know. But they lived here in the winter time, out there at the lake. Eunice Mitchell, Sarah Peters all passed through and stayed for short periods of time. 21 Gabe also remembered that Moses Coyen and Fabien Coyen lived here Oh, lots of them Coyens. 22 As depicted in Figure 2, there were permanent structures belonging to numerous people in this community. Cache still standing in the 1960s at Khaii Luk Tshik. Photo taken in the mid-60s. 19 In the 1970s, Julius Norbert and his wife Agnes and William Petersen lived at Khaii Luk Tshik for a few years hunting, trapping and fishing. Tsiigehtchic Historic Sites Nomination Steering Committee members John Norbert and Peter Ross said that there were other people living at Khaii Luk Tshik before Julius and Agnes, including Blazes and his wife Aanah. The families of Moses Coyen, Hyacinthe Andre, Gabe Andre, Hyacinthe Choo (Big Hyacinthe), Jim Moses, Fabien Coyen, and many other stayed there. Also Simon Modeste, Julius Norbert, John Gitsay, and Otto Natsie lived at Khaii Luk Tshik. Cliff Hagen and his wife, Margaret, raised their family there. Additionally, they mentioned that Eli Norbert trapped with Moses Coyen and Edward Moses. Chester Hagen also trapped in the area. Before Julius settled at Khaii Luk Tshik the Simon boys 19 NWT Archives G : 1269, Photo Credit: D. Ranson. 20 James Simon, Tape 53, July 23, 1992, Gwichya Gwich'in Place Names Project Sarah Peters, COPE Story, Travaillant Lake and Travaillant River ; Eunice Mitchell, Long Story, GSCI Elder s Biography Project 22 Gabe Andre, Tape 1, July 29, 2008, Khaii Luk Tshik Nomination Project 9

11 (Victor, James, Willie), Joseph Norbert and Eli Norbert trapped from here. Bella Norman was also there with them. They flew to the site by plane and used dogteams to trap. Later Julius moved down to Travaillant Creek from Dean s Creek which was located below Little Chicago. Julius and Agnes Norbert with William Peterson at their camp at Khaii Luk Tshik in the 1970s. Photo Credit: Dale and Rose Clark Around the turn of the 21st century Peter Clark, husband of Maureen Clark of Tsiigehtchic, began to build a cabin for his family at Khaii Luk Tshik. The structure, barn-shape in design, is incomplete but has been used as an overnight shelter by river travelers. Buildings and Gardens at the Trading Posts As seen in the early 1990s by archaeologist Jean-Luc Pilon, George Hurst s camp included a group of log buildings includ[ing] not only a principle residence, but also various special purpose buildings such as a fish house, a smoke house, a power house, an ice house, etc. Mr. Hurst apparently sold his cabins to Mr. Cliff Hagen in the 1950's. (Pilon 1992: 53). Hurst, like the Clarks and McNeelys, had a garden. A path from the buildings to the beach was visible in the early 1990s (Pilon 1992) from the time Julius and Agnes Norbert lived here. On the east side, foundations visible in 1991 included various McNeely s buildings: a principal residence, a smoke house, a store, a fish house, a power plant house, and a greenhouse. Other foundations may have belonged to Old Moses (Pilon 1992:54). 10

12 Figure 2. Sketch map of site: Khaii Luk Tshik. Original sketch from Peter Clark, Tsiigehtchic. 11

13 The gardens were an important aspect of life for the trading post owner. The Clarks worked the garden by hand, Yeah, [Bill Clark] made big garden with shovel. No machine them days. Big garden too. Grow potatoes, cabbage, turnips, beets. Everything. Work hard you know that old man. 23 In the McNeely s times the gardens were worked with a garden tractor, considered a necessary machine, my dad had one garden tractor and no snowmobiles, no. 24 Tommy Wright remembered seeing McNeely in the Delta selling his garden produce, in the fall, once in a while, you d see old Billy come down with his little boat. Full of cabbage and all that stuff, you know? In the morning we wake up and see a boat down there, there s old Bill! And he d sell all his stuff, you know, and go back up. 25 Tsiigehtchic Historic Sites Nomination Steering Committee members remembered McNeely traveling to the delta by boat to sell fresh cabbage from his gardens for $1.00 a head. Some of the garden produce was sold and traded as far away as the Mackenzie Delta, Alestine Andre (GSCI), Gwichya Gwich in Elder Gabe some supplied the missions of the lower Andre, and archaeologist Brian Kooyman on the beach Mackenzie (Pilon 1992), but much of it telling stories Khaii Luk Tshik July 2008 was set aside for feeding the traders families. The gardens were very productive for the climate; [Clark] got rhubarbs, cabbage, turnips, lettuce, everything in his garden. He live good you know. Fresh vegetables every day. Got big place for chicken too. Eat eggs every morning. 26 It s still possible to see where some of the gardens were located. The McNeely house had a cellar in it; but they also had a root cellar for storage of vegetables. It had a woodstove in the front part to prevent the vegetables from freezing all winter. In the hot summers it was a cool place to store drinking water there s no fridges those days. 27 The buildings were often of log construction, it was hard to get building logs. They would have had to bring them from the island [on the Mackenzie River] so, they used mostly drift logs, that was, there was lots of drift trees used to come down the river and they were good, you know. And I don t see very much of that anymore Most of the buildings were built from drift logs. 28 There was even a greenhouse (see Figure 2, number 11). 23 Gabe Andre Tape 1, July 29, 2008, Khaii Luk Tshik Nomination Project 24 Winston McNeely, Tape 85, December 7, 2004, Gwich'in Traditional Knowledge of the MGP Area 25 Tommy Wright, April 13, 2007, Aklavik Heritage Sites Project. 26 Gabe Andre Tape 1, July 29, 2008, Khaii Luk Tshik Nomination Project 27 Winston McNeely, Tape 85, December 7, 2004, Gwich'in Traditional Knowledge of the MGP Area 28 Winston McNeely, Tape 85, December 7, 2004, Gwich'in Traditional Knowledge of the MGP Area 12

14 Stories and Activities Khaii Luk Tshik inhabitants stayed year-round and subsisted on a variety of domestic and wild resources. In the summer they drank water from Travaillant Creek, in the winter, Mackenzie ice water. Besides the garden, there were cranberries, nakal (cloudberries), blackberries, black currants, and blueberries growing nearby, which were picked by the inhabitants. Although there wasn t a good fishery at Travaillant Creek, the traders would fish at Travaillant Lake and bring it back to their community. John McNeely recalled, We used to... eat mostly geese or them small ducks like Used to be lots of other ducks, used to call them fish ducks [as they tasted bad]. Oh yeah we eat swans too, in the spring. 29 They also ate duck eggs. They used to snare rabbits and hunt ptarmigan and occasionally spruce chicken. John continued, I used set rabbit snares and crows would be there early in the morning,...cleaning them out! Also, trappers would bring them meat for trade, Used to be lots at Travaillant. Trappers there in the fall sometimes. Yeah, never did run out of meat; like around here some have to run out of meat. Down there always somebody, comes in and brings some meat or something. 30 Also, the McNeely boys would hunt moose around the community. John McNeely remembered a summertime activity, Right in the creek in the mouth of Travaillant Creek we used to go swimming. The water gets very warm sometimes. 31 The Mackenzie River was always too cold for swimming. Temperatures at Khaii Luk Tshik could also swing in the other direction John and Winston McNeely both remembered that the winter temperatures could be bitterly cold near the Mackenzie. I remember one time when I was young there, when we re down there -went down to -72. Didn't last that long but it did go down that cold. 32 Spring break-up of the Mackenzie River ice could cause flooding of the area, Some years, use to be lots of flooding. I remember my dad had gardens and one of the gardens was little bit lower than the others ones and it use to flood into the garden. 33 Willie Simon also remembers flooding, it was that one time in 1961 there was a big flood in Travaillant River; that s where I was passing spring. And the water came up really high, like it came right into the house, where Bill McNeely used to have a house. That was unusual; it was so high it wasn t even funny. 34 Many Gwich in lived and trapped in the bountiful area around Khaii Luk and traded with Hurst, Clark, and McNeely. Andre Jerome remembered when he was young and still learning about life in the bush. We passed spring by Andrew Lake. That lake is close to Khaii Luk. That part of the country is so beautiful; we had a lot fun there, besides we were still young like kids. There was no place to hunt and kill beavers. I had few marten skins which I depended on. I sold them to Billy Clark who had a store at the Khaii Luk Tshik. He paid me well for the 29 John McNeely, Tape 81, December 6, 2004, Gwich'in Traditional Knowledge of the MGP Area 30 John McNeely, Tape 81, December 6, 2004, Gwich'in Traditional Knowledge of the MGP Area 31 John McNeely, Tape 81, December 6, 2004, Gwich'in Traditional Knowledge of the MGP Area 32 John McNeely, Tape 81, December 6, 2004, Gwich'in Traditional Knowledge of the MGP Area 33 Winston McNeely, Tape 85, December 7, 2004, Gwich'in Traditional Knowledge of the MGP Area 34 Willie Simon, Tape 61, November 23, 2004, Gwich'in Traditional Knowledge of the MGP Area 13

15 martens. I did like an elderly person, I bought tent, stove and groceries with it. Who s going to buy whisky at that time? That time it was a lot of martens around there. Around the mouth of that creek [Teedhaa] it gets to be ice free quickly. We set net right at the mouth and we get big fish. The fish on that lake is very rich and tasty. We stayed around that area for a year. I came back this way after a year. 35 Even the traders would travel to get the fish they needed; apparently Travaillant Creek itself was not good for fish, Travaillant River, they say the water is flowing too strong, and it is no good, and no fish go through there, no fish, nothing. Only up at the open creek [Teedhaa], only there fish don t come down that creek, nothing. There were only suckers in the immediate area at Travaillant Creek, only suckers come down, but they come down from Sucker Lake. 36 When the ice is gone in the spring and the water is going down, people used to be somewhat sick of eating meat and eager to set a net for fish. Suckers were only eaten early in the spring. 37 Trails Khaii Luk Tshik has been a trail head since ts ii deįį times. Travellers from further down the Mackenzie River to Khaii Luk would often pass through the mouth of Travaillant Creek before heading north along a portage trail towards Andrew Lake. Noel Andre said "that trail has been used so darn long now, it s cut about two feet into the ground." 38 James Simon said that a winter trail started at Khaii Luk Tshik and it went straight up through the lakes to Teeddhaa. He said from there the trail went along the shore of Khaii Luk. James said he did not cross the middle of the lake because a sudden wind storm might blow in. 39 The trails around Travaillant River used to be marked and everyone would chip in when they went by to maintain these trail markers this way, the trails were better for travelling with a dog team since the dogs could follow the markers. 40 An important trail in the area is the Sucker Lake Portage Trail. This trail leaves the Mackenzie River about three miles down from Khaii Luk Tshik and heads by Sucker Lake to meet with the main trail heading north to Teedhaa. Gabe Andre recounted how old timers would travel this route, Trail clean around every lake dog trail. They start with dog-team all the way, they go around the lakes, follow the old trail. They get to Travaillant Lake; they get all their fish. 41 Trails also led further up the Mackenzie River. During 1991, archaeologist Pilon noted, a sled trail which apparently leads from the trading post to the Thunder River area following the top of the Mackenzie River bluff, was still visible (Pilon 1992:70). 35 Andre Jerome, Tape 6, March 10, 1990, Arctic Red River Oral History Project. Translated from Gwich in. 36 Hyacinthe Andre, May , Fish Trap Project. Translated from Gwich in. 37 Agnes Mitchell, Tape 30, July 31, 1992, Gwichya Gwich'in Place Names Project Noel Andre, Tape 22, July 14, 1992, Gwichya Gwich'in Place Names Project James Simon, Tape #52, July 23, 1992, Gwichya Gwich in Place Names Project Dale Clark, February , Day 3 GSCI TK Study of the MGP Area Map workshop 41 Gabe Andre Tape 1, July 29, 2008, Khaii Luk Tshik Nomination Project 14

16 Figure 3. Major trail routes from Khaii Luk Tshik north and west. Nagwichoonjik is also a highway for the Gwichya Gwich in and other groups as well. There is an important stone (flint) quarry at Thunder River up the Mackenzie River from Khaii Luk Tshik and Gwich in, Slavey and Inuit from further north would travel there to gather material to make tools (Heine 1997). Before the establishment of a trading post in the delta area, Gwich in travelling from downriver would pass Khaii Luk Tshik on their way to Fort Good Hope to trade. In more recent times, the river also connects relatives from different communities along the river 15

17 who share family ties. On a smaller scale, the river has always acted as a summer travel route for visiting between the numerous fish camps located at many of the eddies along its length. Khaii Luk Tshik was also a trail head for travel in a different direction before the days of mechanized travel, people would track canoes up the Mackenzie River to Khaii Luk Tshik and spend freeze-up there. Once they could travel again, some would head south across the Mackenzie River towards the fish lake Siveezhòo or towards the mountains at the headwaters of the Arctic Red River (Heine 1997). John Norbert said the old trail to Tatthał Nii ee Choo (a line of [caribou] fence), that started at the big draw across the Mackenzie River from Khaii Luk Tshik was still visible in 1976, the year Julius Norbert died. 42 Graves From the earliest days on the land to quite recently, the final resting place of people who died away from town was at or near where they had died. There are several grave sites at Khaii Luk Tshik. There are possibly two behind George Hurst s cabin but Hurst may have removed more crosses when he was building his camp and there might be more graves around the west side. Big Hyacinthe s grave is also in the area. It is known that Andre Jerome s daughter died there in the early 1930s, although her gravesite is not currently recorded. 43 Two grave markers were identified by archaeologist Jean-Luc Pilon in 1991, just downstream from Khaii Luk Tshik. Skeletal remains of one grave were visible on the surface and were of a small child, possibly around three years old. The bones were left in the grave (Pilon 1992). Recent Times During recent times, a shelter has been built by Peter Clark, as mentioned above. During an archaeological survey in 1973, it was noted that there was an occupied tent camp on the downstream side of Travaillant River i.e. George Hurst s side (Millar et al 1973:v.4 p 83). Also, the McNeely s may still use the area as there was evidence of a tent camp there in October 1999 which Gabe Andre indicated might be from them. 44 John Norbert said Julius and Agnes Norbert lived in a caboose on the side of the river where the Hurst family used to live. Today, summer river travellers stop at Travaillant Creek for a stop-over or for a shore break on their long travel up or down the river. 42 Tsiigehtchic Historic Sites Nomination Steering Committee. 43 Andre Jerome, Tape 5, July 28, 1989, Arctic Red River Oral History Project 44 Ingrid Kritsch s notes from boat trip October 14 15th,

18 Bibliography Gwich'in Land Use Planning Board 2003 Nanh' Geenjit Gwit'rit Tigwaa'in / Working For The Land. Gwich'in Land Use Plan. Gwich'in Land Use Planning Board, Inuvik, NWT. Gwich in Renewable Resource Board and Gwich in Elders 1997 Nành Kak Geenjit Gwich in Ginjik (Gwich in words about the land). Gwich in Renewable Resource Board, Inuvik, NWT. GSCI and Parks Canada 2004 Nagwichoonjik National Historic Site of Canada Commemorative Integrity Statement. GSCI Review Draft. April Heine, Michael 1997 "That river, it's like a highway for us. " The Mackenzie River through Gwichya Gwich' in history and culture. Historic Sites and Monuments Board of Canada Agenda Paper. GSCI. Heine, Michael, Alestine Andre, Ingrid Kritsch, Alma Cardinal and the Elders of Tsiigehtshik 2007 Gwichya Gwich'in Googwandak: The History and Stories of the Gwichya Gwich'in. Gwich'in Social and Cultural Institute, Tsiigehtchic, NT. 2 nd revised and expanded edition. Originally published Kritsch, Ingrid and Alestine Andre 1993 Gwichya Gwich'in Place Names up the Arctic Red River and south of the Mackenzie River, Gwich'in Settlement Area, N.W.T. Gwich'in Social and Cultural Institute, Tsiigehtchic, N.W.T Gwich'in Traditional Knowledge and Heritage Studies in the Gwich'in Settlement Area. At a Crossroads: Archaeology and First Peoples in Canada, pp Edited by George Nicholas and Thomas Andrews. Archaeology Press, Simon Fraser University. Lyons, Natasha 2007 Repatriating Traditional Gwich in Skills and Knowledge : Report on a Pilot Project with Gwich in Elders from Fort McPherson. Gwich in Social and Cultural Institute, Fort McPherson, NT. Millar, J. F. V., G. C. Short, and L. Konotopetz 1973 Report of Investigations 1973 Program Mackenzie River Archaeological Project. Report produced for the Historic Advisory Board, Government of the Northwest Territories. Pilon, Jean luc 1992 Report of the 1991 NOGAP Archaeological Field Activities in the Southwest Anderson Plain and in the Mackenzie Valley, District of Mackenzie, Northwest Territories. Archaeological Survey of Canada, Canadian Museum of Civilization. Permit report on file at the Prince of Wales Northern Heritage Centre. Savoie, Donat (editor) 2001 Land Occupancy by the Amerindians of the Canadian Northwest in the 19th Century as reported by Émile Petitot. Occasional Publication no. 49, Canadian Circumpolar Institute, University of Alberta, reissued Usher, Peter 17

19 1971 Fur Trade Posts of the Northwest Territories Northern Science Research Group, Department of Indian Affairs and Northern Development, Ottawa, Canada. Winbourne, Janet 2004 Local Knowledge of Fish Movements and Habitat Use in the Travaillant Lake System. Gwich in Renewable Resource Board Report Primary sources from the following projects COPE (Committee on Original People s Entitlement) 1970s Dene Mapping Project 1970s and 80s National Indian Brotherhood/Dene Nation Various Gwich in Language Centre recordings 1980s 1990s Gwich in Language Centre Tsiigehtchic Oral History Project 1989, Alestine Andre. Fish Trap Project 1991 Alestine Andre Gwichya Gwich in Place Names Project 1992 Alestine Andre and Ingrid Kritsch 1999 Googwandak Recordings Gwich in Social & Cultural Institute Elders Biography Project Leslie McCartney, Gwich in Social & Cultural Institute Gwich in Traditional Knowledge of the MGP Area 2005, Gwich in Social and Cultural Institute Aklavik Heritage Sites Project 2007 Gwich in Social and Cultural Institute (K. Benson) Khaii Luk Tshik Nomination Project 2008 Gwich in Social and Cultural Institute (K. Benson) 18

20 A Name of the Site Type of Name Name Information on use of name Present name(s) Khaii Luk Tshik Travaillant Creek; Travaillant River Traditional name(s) Khaii Luk Tshik Original name Khaii Luk Tshik Other historic names(s) Trading River, rivière de la Traite, Canadien Travaillant Official name Other names Ghat a Luwe Shee (Slavey name) Please include any information about the name i.e. what language it is in, the period when it was used Khaii Luk Tshik is a traditional Gwich in place name, in the Gwichya Gwich in dialect. The name refers to the mouth of Travaillant Creek where it flows into the Mackenzie River. B Geographical Location of the Site. Street address N/A Legal address N/A Latitude / Longitude N W Other method UTM North American datum 1983 Add any other information that would help us to find the site The site is located on the north (right) shore of the Mackenzie River at the mouth of the Travaillant River on the east bank. The proposed boundary is approximately 1.9 kilometers east west and 1.4 kilometers north south. The proposed boundary encompasses the two camps, and the archaeological sites including Old Hyacinthe s grave. See map, below. 19

21 20 Figure 4. Proposed boundary of Khaii Luk Tshik Territorial Historic Site as approved by the steering committee.

22 C Description of the Site Please clearly describe what the site looks like. The site surrounds the outlet of a creek that flows into the Mackenzie River. On either side of the site large bluffs grade up to the rolling flatlands high above the Mackenzie River. Although overgrown with scrub and willows, the site has numerous visible historic features. A driftwood covered beach of cobbles and silt is along the Mackenzie River. There are several terrace like features where buildings were originally located between the height of land and Travaillant Creek. Add further information to describe parts of the site (if appropriate). What parts of the site must be preserved for it to keep its heritage value? For example, particular features of a building, views and vistas, space configurations, how the site is used, materials the site is made of, stories that go with the site The three aspects of the site that must be preserved and studied further are: 1. The archaeological remains, including surface features and buried remains, relating to the use of the area before the fur trade and from the post s life during the fur trade 2. The trail heads that leave from this area. 3. The stories and information about the intensive horticulture at the trading posts that was a key part of this community. Many families had gardens along the Mackenzie River and these gardens commemorate this phenomena. Also important are the stories and photos of the traders and their families and other members of the community. Please estimate (roughly) the size of the site 425m N S; 935m E W Please attach photos of the site if you can. How many photos have you included? When were they taken? (rough date) Who took them? Known photographs are included in this table. Photo # and description Photographer Date Collection G : 1265 to Photos of abandoned trappers cabin at Travaillant River. Denny Ranson 1964 NWT Archives Dale Clark has numerous photos of the area in his personal collection. GSCI collection: July 2008 Khaii Luk Tshik boat trip. The GSCI has 13 photographs of the site from a trip for this nomination form GSCI collection: The GSCI has various photographs of the site. 21 Various 1900s Dale Clark Kristi Benson and Alestine Andre Various 2008 GSCI GSCI

23 Parks Canada collection: Parks has photographs from a September 1999 boat trip to the site in preparation for drafting the Commemorative Integrity Statement for Nagwichoonjik National Historic Site. The GRRB has several pictures taken from the air and possibly other pictures of the site as well. Jean Luc Pilon, an archaeologist at the Canadian Museum of Civilization, has photos of the area from archaeological survey work. David Neufeld 1999 Parks Canada, GSCI Various, GRRB GRRB Jean Luc Pilon Personal/CMC Which of the following best describes the type of historic place you are nominating? (Choose one or more) a a ruin (archaeological remnant) X b a sacred site c a burial or grave site X d a trail, river route, road route or pathway X e a site traditionally used for a specific purpose or activity X f a cultural landscape g a special place the natural landscape (intangible) h a special feature in the natural landscape (tangible) X i a man made feature in the natural landscape j k l m n o p a landscape that is part natural, part man made a building a building and its property a structure (that is not a building) a complex of buildings & structures (one property) a streetscape a historic district (streets and properties with buildings or structures) q a man made landscape that includes many features X r a place where early land occupation patterns can still be seen s another type of place (describe) D Use and Condition of the Site How is this site used today? The site is used as a seasonal camp. The site is also used as a navigational aid when travelling the Mackenzie River. 22

24 Is this site currently under threat? If so, please describe the threat. The site may be threatened by activities relating to the proposed Mackenzie Gas Pipeline. How would you describe the present condition of this place? Condition Yes/No Comments healthy Yes whole No good Yes okay Yes poor No Overgrown Yes falling apart Yes being destroyed No Who currently owns the site? The site is in two parcels, divided by Travaillant Creek. The east portion is Schedule I, Gwich'in Lands, Excluding Minerals owned by the Gwich in Tribal Council. The west portion is crown land. Are they aware and supportive of this nomination? Letters of support to come. Thank you for completing this nomination form. Please tell us who you are, and where we can reach you. name GSCI Executive Director organization (if any) mailing address Gwich in Social & Cultural Institute Box 30, Fort McPherson, NT X0E 0J0 telephone e mail fax other gsciexecutivedirector@learnnet.nt.ca This nomination form can be submitted by mail Cultural Places Officer Prince of Wales Northern Heritage Centre Box 1320 Yellowknife, NT XIA 2L9 by fax Cultural Places Officer Prince of Wales Northern Heritage Centre by e mail culturalplaces@gov.nt.ca 23

25 on line It is also available to be downloaded on line at Prince of Wales Northern Heritage Centre staff will be in touch with you to confirm they have received it. A file number for further correspondence about the historic place will be attached to the reply. ADDITIONAL INFORMATION Answers to the following questions are not required to nominate a Territorial historic site. However, it will help us to process your nomination more quickly if you can provide any of the following information. 1) Do you have a personal attachment to this site? If so, please tell us about it. The Gwichya Gwich in of Tsiigehtchic have a strong attachment to this site. They have a bond to the history of the site from its use as a trail head and camp site during tsii dęįį days through its importance as a fur trade post, and to modern times. They have an attachment as well to the Mackenzie River, which is an important travel route for accessing harvesting areas and visiting. Family members of the traders who originally occupied this site now reside in Tsiigehtchic, Inuvik, Fort Good Hope, Vancouver (British Columbia), and Whitecourt (Alberta) and have first hand memories of life at this post. Additionally, trails through and by this site connect different harvesting and use areas, named places, and special sites. 2) Can you provide information to precisely identify the boundaries of the site? See map (Figure 4) above; a GIS file with the proposed boundary is also attached to the nomination form. 3) Has this site already been recognized as a historic place by another government or agency? If so, by whom and as what type of site? I. In the Rakekée Gok é Godi: Places we take care of (Report of the Sahtu Heritage Places and Sites Joint Working Group) the area is identified as important and requiring further study. The entry is summarized below. Ghat a Luwe Shee / Mouth of the Travaillant River The location of a historic trading post and meeting place, the mouth of the Travaillant River is of particular importance to the Métis of Fort Good Hope. The trading post, operated in the early 1950s by Bill McNeely, was an important trading location for Gwich'in and Slavey people in the region. Local stories describe large potato fields located on an island at the mouth of the river. The McNeely family is currently a prominent Métis family in Fort Good Hope. Recommendations For Protection Undertake oral history and archaeological research to document and protect heritage resources. Surface of documented sites should be protected. Will require consent and cooperation of the Gwich'in Tribal Council to proceed with any research. II. The area is within the Mackenzie River Special Management Zone in Nành Geenjit Gwitr it T igwaa in (Gwich in Words About the Land Gwich in Land Use Plan. Development in the area must comply with conditions for traditional fish harvesting, fish, raptors, and waterfowl. There are also several conditions for heritage resources in place to protect the significant heritage resources known to exist in the area (p78). 24

26 III. The site is within the boundary of Nagwichoonjik National Historic Site. This site follows the Mackenzie River from where it enters the Gwich in Settlement Area to Point Separation. It was commemorated for the following reasons (GSCI and Parks Canada 2004: 11): it is prominent as a cultural landscape within the Gwichya Gwich in traditional territory; it is culturally, socially and spiritually significant to the people; and, the history of life on the land and along the river is remembered through names that are given to a great number of places on the land and along the river. Additionally, the archaeological remains include[ing] the surface and buried resources related to the trading post and settlement at Travaillant River confluence at Khaii Luk Tshik are considered important heritage features in the Nagwichoonjik National Historic Site (GSCI and Parks Canada 2004: 20). III. Research is currently being conducted to nominate the Mackenzie River as a Canadian Heritage River. 4) Is this site presently occupied by someone who is not the owner? Please name (if known). The site is occasionally used as a seasonal camp by Maureen and Peter Clark and their family. River travelers often stop at the site in winter and summer as it marks the half way point between Tsiigehtchic and Fort Good Hope. Does the present occupant know the site has been nominated as a Territorial historic site? N/A 5) Has this site been maintained over the years by someone (who is not the owner or occupant)? Please name person and contact information (if known). The McNeely family of Fort Good Hope and Peter and Maureen Clark of Tsiigehtchic make occasional visits to the site. Does this caretaker know the site has been nominated as a Territorial historic site? Letter to come. 6) Do you know of a person, group or organization that has stories, papers or historic photographs of the site? If so, please tell us who they are, and how we can contact them. See table, above. 7) Do you know where we can obtain additional information about the site? The McNeely family in Fort Good Hope. 8) Have parts of this historic place been removed and relocated elsewhere. If so, what parts are they and how can we find them? N/A 9) Is this historic place a building or structure that has been moved to its present location from an earlier site? If so, please tell us what you know about when it was moved and where it came from. N/A 10) Does your community support designation of this site? The members of the Tsiigehtchic Historic Sites Nomination Committee support this designation. Letters from the Charter Community of Tsiigehtchic, the Gwichya Gwich in Council, and Gwich in Tribal Council are forthcoming. 25