Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. Behind the Scenes

Transcription

1 560 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Many thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Benjamin Blaise, Doreen Coppens, Richard Crighton, Judy Larquier, John Malone, Joyce Tocher, Gary Turnquist, John-Richard Winn AUTHOR THANKS Amy C Balfour Thank you, Karen Underhill and Jayne Powell for the inside scoop on Flagstaff, and Doug Campbell for Grand Canyon area updates. In Tucson, thank you, Chris and Cheryl Ray family, and Deb Corcoran. Thank you, Nelson Echevarria for great tips about food and brews in Phoenix. Nick Bleser and Birdie Stabel, I enjoyed our lunch in Tubac. Julie Campbell, Deb Armstrong, Sarah Bunn and Sheila Romana thank you for the leads. Cheers to Carolyn McCarthy and Greg Ward for top-notch text, Chris Pitts for spot-on editing and Alex Howard for skillfully keeping us on track. Carolyn McCarthy With a nod to Ed Abbey, Everett Ruess and Daniel Suelo, whose desert roamings still inspire. Thanks to Sandra B for helping me explore more of this magical corner of the planet. For providing needed breaks, my full gratitude goes out to Lance, Drew, Anne Bliss and the Kudos. Thanks also to Chris Rose and Angela Donini for their tips. Virtual craft beers go out to Amy Balfour for steering the ship. Greg Ward Thanks to everyone who helped me on the road in New Mexico, especially Steve Horak, Bill Tefft, Heather Arnold, Kelly Ryan and Steve Lewis. Back home, thanks as ever to my wife Samantha Cook. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, Cover photograph: Canyonlands National Park, Utah, Michele Falzone/AWL.

2 561 THIS BOOK This 7th edition of Southwest USA was researched and written by Amy C Balfour, Carolyn McCarthy and Greg Ward. The previous edition was written by Amy C Balfour, Michael Benanav, Sarah Chandler, Lisa Dunford, and Carolyn McCarthy. The 5th edition was researched and written by Becca Blond, Sara Sam Benson, Lisa Dunford and Andrea Schulte- Peevers. The Native American Southwest USA chapter was written by Jeff Campbell. The Geology chapter was written by David Lukas. The Travel with Children chapter was based on text by Jennifer Denniston. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet s London office, and produced by the following: Destination Editor Alexander Howard Product Editor Kate Kiely Senior Cartographer Alison Lyall Cartographer Gabe Lindquist Book Designer Wendy Wright Assisting Editors Justin Flynn, Kellie Langdon, Ali Lemer, Christopher Pitts, Erin Richards Assisting Cartographer Hunor Csutoros Cover Researcher Naomi Parker Thanks to Martine Power, Dianne Schallmeiner, Angela Tinson, Samantha Tyson, Cliff Wilkinson BEHIND THE SCENES

3 562 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Index 4WD travel Hours 401 A Abbey, Edward 429, 539 Abiquiú accommodations 52, 544-6, see also individual locations Acoma Pueblo 20, 324, 20 activities, see individual activities air travel to/from Southwest USA 553 within Southwest USA 555 Ajax Peak 371 Alameda Park & Zoo 338 Alamogordo Albuquerque , 242 accommodations activities Albuquerque Bio Park downtown 243 drinking entertainment 251 festivals & events 246 food information 252 metropolitan Albuquerque Nob Hill & UNM Area 243 Old Town 240-2, 244 shopping sights tours 246 transportation Albuquerque International Sunport 553 Alkali Flat 338 Alta Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 altitude sickness Anasazi Heritage Center 370 Angel Fire Angel Lake 101 Angels Landing 14, 448, 14 angling, see fishing animals 24, Antelope Canyon 186 Antelope Island State Park Apache people , 520 archaeology 510 Arches National Park , 414, 19 architecture area codes 551 Arizona 55, , accommodations 109 highlights 112 scenic drives 111 travel seasons 109 Arizona Cardinals Arizona Diamondbacks 130 Arizona State University 120 Arizona Strip Arroyo Seco art 21, 24-5, 268, art galleries, see museums & galleries ATMs 549 atomic bomb 339, 515 Audrey Headframe Park 140 Austin 96-7 Aztec 252, Aztec Ruins National Monument 316 B Balcony House 366 Bandelier National Monument 284 baseball 130, see also individual teams basketball 475, see also individual teams Batavi 196 Bear River Migratory Bird Refuge 478 Bearizona 177 Beatty 94-5 Beaver Falls 169 beer 27, 537, see also microbreweries festivals 31, 360 Utah laws 397 bees 551 Benson bicycle travel, see cycling, mountain biking Big Room 349 Bill Williams National Wildlife Refuge 204 Billy the Kid 342, 352 Billy the Kid Scenic Byway 39-40, 237 Biosphere Bird Cage Theater 226 birds 532 bird-watching 532 Bear River Migratory Bird Refuge 478 Brigham City 478 Cottonwood 143 Dead Horse Ranch State Park 143 Matheson Wetlands Preserve 407 Moab 407 Ouray 377 Patagonia Lake State Park 223 Solitude 484 southern Arizona 224 Sundance Resort 498 Bisbee 12, , 228, 13 Bisti Badlands 317 Bitter Lake National Wildlife Refuge 346 Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park 44, Black Rock Desert 106 Black Rock Hot Springs 295 Blanding 395 Blue Hole 350 Bluff boating 49-50, see also kayaking Caliente 96 Eagle Nest 307 Elephant Butte Lake State Park 327 Park 169 Lake Havasu City 202 Lake Mead 92 Lake Powell 187, 417 Lake Tahoe 107 Navajo Lake (NM) 315 Navajo Lake (UT) 458 Patagonia Lake State Park 223 Rye Patch State Recreation Area 98 Tempe 121 Unionville 98 Watson Lake 137 Bonneville Salt Flats 497 Book of Mormon 471 books 506, 539 border control 558 border crossings 553-4, 558 Bosque Del Apache National Wildlife Refuge 326 Bosque Redondo Memorial at Fort Sumner Historic Site 352 Boulder Boulder Mountain 423 Box-Death Hollow Wilderness Area Brazos Canyon 314 Breaking Bad 248, 540 Brian Head Bridal Veil Falls Brigham City 478 Bright Angel Trail Brighton 484-5

4 563 Bryce Canyon National Park 432-7, 433 Buckaroo Hall of Fame 99 Buckhorn Wash 504 Buckskin Mountain State Park 204 budgeting 23 buffets 81 Bullhead City Bundy, Cliven 506 Burning Man 31, 107 Burr Trail Rd 426 bus travel to/from Southwest USA within Southwest USA bushwalking, see hiking business hours 23, Butler Wash Ruins 395 C Caineville Wash Rd 424 Caliente 96 Camelback Mountain 122 Cameron 160 camping 545 canoeing, see kayaking Canyon de Chelly 16, 193-4, 16 Canyon Rd 278 Canyon Rims Recreation Area 401 canyoneering 48-9 Arches National Park 413 Escalante 428 Kanab 442 Moab 405, 407 Springdale 452 St George 461 Zion National Park 449 Canyonlands National Park 19, , 398 Cape Royal 183 Capitol Reef National Park , 420 Capulin Volcano 309 car travel 430, 554, 555, 557-9, see also scenic drives Arizona 110 Colorado 354 Mexico 554 Nevada 59, 62 New Mexico 236 Utah 386 Carlsbad 347-9, 348 Carlsbad Caverns National Park 17, 349, 17, 125 Carrizozo Carson City Carson National Forest 44 Casa Grande Ruins 219 Casa Grande Trading Post & Petting Zoo 257 Cascade Falls 458 casinos, see also Las Vegas (NV) Crystal Bay 108 Isleta Pueblo 253 Mesquite 94 Reno 102 San Felipe Pueblo 255 Sandia Pueblo 253 Santa Ana Pueblo 254 Sky City 324 Tesuque Pueblo 281 West Wendover 101 Cassidy, Butch 438 Cataract Canyon 404 Cathedral Gorge State Park 97 caves Austin 97 Carlsbad Caverns National Park 17, 349, 17, 25 Ceremonial Cave 284 Grand Canyon Caverns Great Basin National Park 98 Indian Cave 432 Kartchner Caverns State Park 231 Lehman Caves 98 Timpanogos Cave 499 Toquima Cave 97 caving 48-9 Cedar Breaks National Monument 458 Cedar City Cedar Crest Cedar Mesa 394 cell phones 22, 552 Ceremonial Cave 284 Cerrillos 257 Chaco Canyon 318 Chaco Culture National Historical Park 318 Chama Chapel of the Holy Cross 145 Chapin Mesa Chasm View 382 children, travel with aquariums 69, 242 Grand Canyon National Park 170 Las Vegas 69, 73 museums 73 Phoenix 124 railways 97, 143, 177, , 359, 380, 496 Salt Lake City 473 Santa Fe 262 theme parks 70, 74-5, 121-2, 176 Tucson 209 water parks 121 wildlife parks & zoos 177, 242-3, 257, 326, 338, 347 Childs, Craig 429 Chimayó Chimney Rock 286 Chimney Rock Archaeological Area 358 Chiricahua National Monument Chloride 252, 329 Cimarron 310 Cimarron Canyon State Park 307 cinema Circleville 438 Citadel Pueblo 160 Clayton Clayton Lake State Park 309 Cliff Palace 366 climate 22, 507, see also individual locations climate change 553 climbing, see rock climbing Cloudcroft Cochiti Lake 255 Cochiti Pueblo 255 coffee 538 Cold Springs 96 Colorado 56, , accommodations 353 food 353 highlights travel seasons 353 Colorado City 464 Colorado River Byway 424 Comb Wash Rd 424 Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park 444 Coronado Historic Site Cortez , 391 costs 23 Cottonwood courses cooking 267 photography pole dancing 75 credit cards 549 Crested Butte Crow Canyon Archaeology Center 369 cryptobiotic crusts 528 Cuba 315 culture Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railway currency 22 currency exchange 549 cyanobacteria 528 cycling 44-6, 555-6, see also mountain biking Albuquerque 246 Bryce Canyon National Park 435 Cortez 369 Durango 360 festivals 330, 408 Flagstaff 153 Grand Canyon National Park 167 greater Phoenix 123 Mesa Verde National Park 367 Red Rock Canyon 90 Snow Canyon State Park 463 Taos 295 Zion National Park 449 D dance 542 dangers 220, 237, 554 Dead Horse Point State Park 401 Dead Horse Ranch State Park 143 Deer Valley 488 dehydration 547 Delicate Arch 413 Deming Denver International Airport 553 Depression, the 62, 514 desert flowers 533 Dinosaur Diamond 501 dinosaur fossils 395, 467, 500, 501, 503 Dinosaur National Monument Dinosaur Quarry 501, 27 INDEX B-D

5 564 INDEX D-G disabilities, travelers with 552 Dixie National Forest 423 Dixon Dolores Dominguez Pueblo 370 Donner Memorial State Park 108 drinks 537-8, see also individual drinks driver s licenses 557 driving, see car travel, scenic drives drought 507, Dulce 315 Durango Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad 359 dust storms 527 Dutch John 503 E Eagle Nest 307 Earp, Wyatt 514 Earthships 541 East Zion 445 economy 507 El Camino Real de Tierra Adentro 326 El Malpais National Monument 323 El Morro National Monument 322 electricity 546 Elena Gallegos Open Space 246 Elephant Butte Lake State Park 327 Elko Ely 97-8 Embudo 290 Emerald Bay State Park 107 emergencies 23, 552 Enchanted Circle environmental issues 507, Escalante Escalante Petrified Forest State Park 428 Escalante Pueblo 370 Española 284 Eureka 97 events exchange rates 23 Extraterrestrial Hwy 95 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 F Fairbank Historic Site 226 Fallon 96 Farmington festivals art 268 beer 31, 360 Burning Man 31, 107 Christmas 269 cycling 330, 408 film 29, 148, 372, 423, 489, 498 food 269, 334 gay & lesbian 75, 268, 470 ice climbing 378 mountain biking 367, 408 music 30, 75, 214, 297, 330, 372, 408 Native American 30, 191, 196, 246, 303, 320 rodeos 75, 132, 137, 213, 246, 268, 269, 314, 320, 334 UFOs 346 wine 246, 269 film 440, 506, festivals 29, 148, 372, 423, 489, 498 fishing Dead Horse Ranch State Park 143 Dinosaur National Monument 502 Durango 360 Dutch John 503 Eagle Nest 307 Elephant Butte Lake State Park 327 Lake Mead 92 Lees Ferry 185 Lynx Lake 137 McPhee Lake 370 Navajo Lake 315 Patagonia Lake State Park 223 Ridgway 376 Rye Patch State Recreation Area 98 San Juan Mountains 371 Santa Fe 267 Taos 297 Telluride 372 Torrey 423 Walker Lake State Recreation Area 95 Fishlake National Forest 423 Flagstaff 15, 154, 156, 15 accommodations activities 153 drinking 158 food sights transportation 159 Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area Flaming Gorge-Uintas Scenic Byway 502 Flintstones Bedrock City 176 floods 48, 507 flora fly fishing, see fishing folk art 542 Folsom Man 309 food 25-6, 52, 535-8, 546 buffets 81 festivals 269, 334 Fort Bowie National Historic Site 231 Fort Sumner 352 Fort Verde State Historic Park 133 four-wheel driving Fremont Indian State Park 456 Fruita Historic District 421 G galleries, see museums & galleries Gallup gambling 68, see also casinos Ganado & Hubbell Trading Post 194 gay marriage 506 gay travelers 546 festivals 75, 268, 470 Genoa 106 geology 24, 412, Ghost Ranch 286 Gila Cliff Dwellings Gila Hot Springs 333 Gila National Forest Glen Canyon Dam 187 Glen Canyon National Recreation Area (AZ) Glen Canyon National Recreation Area (UT) Glendale Goblin Valley State Park 417 Golden Shores 198 Golden Spike National Historic Site 479 Goldfield 95 golf Cloudcroft 340 greater Phoenix 114, 124, 125 Sedona 149 St George 460 Wickenburg 135 Goosenecks State Park Gorgoza Park 488 Grafton ghost town 455 Grand Canyon Caverns Park 11, , 161, 10-11, 45 accommodations 170-2, 183 activities children, travel with 170 food 172-3, 184 information 173-4, 184 North Rim sights South Rim , 162 tours 170 transportation 174-5, 184 village 163, 172-3, Grand Canyon region , 161 climate Grand Canyon West Havasupai Reservation Hualapai Reservation Kaibab National Forest 47, North Rim Skywalk South Rim , 162 Tusayan Valle 176 Williams Grand Canyon Skywalk Grand Canyon Village 163, 172-3, Grand Canyon West Grand Gulch Primitive Area 394 Grand Staircase-Escalante Granite Mountain Wilderness 137 Grants 323-4

6 565 Great Basin Great Basin National Park 98 Great Depression 62, 514 Great Salt Lake 477 Great Sand Dunes National Park 383 Green River 404, Green River State Park 416 Grimes Point Archaeological Area 96 H Hackberry 200 Hanksville 417 Hano 195 Hassayampa River Preserve 134 Hatch 336, 440 Havasu Falls 179 Havasu National Wildlife Refuge 198 Havasupai people 520 Havasupai Reservation Hawthorne 95 health heat exhaustion 547 Heber City Heber Valley Historic Railroad 496 Hell s Backbone Rd 424 Henry Mountains 416 Heritage & Science Park Hermit Peak 312 Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area 97 High Road to Taos 42, 237 High Uintas Wilderness Area 503 hiking 24, 43-4 Albuquerque 246 Arches National Park Aztec 316 Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park 382 Bryce Canyon National Park 434 Canyon de Chelly 194 Capitol Reef National Park 421 Cloudcroft 340 East Zion 445 Farmington 317 Flagstaff 153 Gila National Forest 332 Glen Canyon National Recreation Area (AZ) 187 Park 165-7, 181-2, 45 Grand Staircase- Escalante National Monument Island in the Sky Kaibab National Forest 176 Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument 255 Lake Mead 92-3 Mesa Verde National Park Moab Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park 192 Mt Charleston 94 Navajo Dam 315 Navajo National Monument Needles District 399 Organ Pipe Cactus 220 Park City 488 Phoenix Prescott 137 Red Canyon 438 Red River 306 Río Grande del Norte 289 Ruidoso 341 Saguaro National Park 211 Sandia Crest 247 Santa Fe Sedona 146 Snow Canyon State Park 463 Solitude 484 Sunset Crater Volcano 159 Taos Taos Ski Valley 304 Zion National Park Hildale 464 Hillerman, Tony 429, 539 Hillsboro 330 history Apache conflicts 511 atomic bomb 515 Depression, the 513 first Americans 508 Hohokam, Mogollon & Ancestral Puebloans 508 Long Walk 511 Spaniards 509 Wild West 513 Hohokam people 508 Holbrook holidays 550 Holliday, Doc 514 Homolovi State Park 233 Hoover Dam 90, 91-2 Hopi people Hopi Reservation horseback riding 49 Bryce Canyon National Park 435 Cerrillos 257 Crested Butte 383 Dead Horse Ranch State Park 143 Durango 359 Ghost Ranch 286 Park 167-9, 182 Kaibab National Forest 177 Moab 407 Park City 489 Phoenix 123 Red Rock Canyon 90 Santa Fe Sedona 147 Taos 297 Taos Pueblo 20, 303 Telluride 372 Zion National Park 449 Horseshoe Canyon 400 hot springs, see spas & hot springs Hotevila 196 Houston, Pam 539 Hovenweep National Monument 391 Hualapai Mountain Park 199 Hualapai people 522 Hualapai Reservation Humboldt-Toiyabe National Forest 99 Humphreys Peak 153 Hurricane 455 Hwy Hwy 12 40, 423 Hwy , 458 Hwy 50 21, 40-1, 96-8, 21 Hwy , 188, Hwy 89A 37-9 Hwy Hwy I ice climbing 378 ice skating 483 Independence Day 30 Indian Cave 432 Inscription Rock 322 insurance car 554, 557 health 547 travel 547 internet access 548 internet resources 23, 59, 110, 236, 354, 386 Island in the Sky Isleta Pueblo 253 itineraries 32-5, 32, 33, 34, 35 J Jacob Lake Jemez Mountain Trail 283 Jemez Springs 283 Jerome 12, 140-3, 141 Jerome State Historic Park 140 jewelry Jicarilla Apache Indian Reservation 314 Jicarita Peak 290 K Kachina Point 234 Kaibab National Forest 47, Kanab Kartchner Caverns State Park 231 Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks 255 kayaking Dutch John 503 Lake Mead 92 Lake Tahoe 108 Moab 405 Reno 102 Sedona 148 Topock Gorge 198 Kayenta 191 Kewa Pueblo 255 Kingman Kingsolver, Barbara 539 Kingston 330 Kitt Peak National Observatory Kodachrome Basin State Park 432 Kuaua Pueblo Kykotsmovi 196 INDEX G-K

7 566 INDEX L- M L La Cieneguilla Petroglyph Site 267 La Luz 338 La Sal Mountain Loop Rd 424 La Ventana Natural Arch 323 Laguna Pueblo 324 Lake Carlsbad Beach Park 347 Lake Havasu City 201-3, 202 Lake Mead 91-3 Lake Powell 186-9, Lake Tahoe Lake Tahoe-Nevada State Park 108 language 22 Las Cruces Las Trampas Las Vegas (NM) Las Vegas (NV) 12, 55, 62-90, 64-5, 72, 12 accommodations 75-8 activities 74-5 children, travel with 69 climate 58 courses 75 downtown 71-3 drinking 82-5 entertainment 85-7 festivals & events 75 food information 88-9 shopping 87-8 sights the Strip tours 75 transportation Laughlin Lava Falls 169, 323 Lawrence, DH 539 Lees Ferry 185 legal matters Lehman Caves 98 lesbian travelers 546 festivals 75, 268, 470 Lincoln 344 literature 539 Little Dragoon Mountains 232 Living Desert Zoo 347 Logan 479 Lomaki Pueblo 160 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 London Bridge 202 Long House 366 Loop-the-Fold 424 Los Alamos 282-4, 515 Los Angeles Airport 553 Lynx Lake 137 M Madrid Manby Hot Springs 295 Mancos Manti-La Sal National Forest 395 Marble Canyon 185 margaritas 538 marijuana 358 Matheson Wetlands Preserve 407 Maze, the McCarran International Airport 553 McConkie Ranch Petroglyphs 500 McKnight Mountain 332 McPhee Lake 370 Mesa Verde National Park 15, 364-8, 365, 15, 53 Mesilla 334 Mesquite 94 meteor craters 232 Mexican border 554 Mexican Hat 392 microbreweries 19, 537 Arizona 158, 217 New Mexico 301, 319 Southwest Colorado 361, 384 Utah 411, Midway Million Dollar Highway 41-2, 377, 37 Mishongnovi 195 Mission San Xavier del Bac 221 Moab 14, 47, 402, 15 accommodations 408 activities drinking 412 entertainment 412 festivals 408 food shopping 412 sights 403 transportation 413 mobile phones 22, 552 Moenkopi Mogollon 332 Mogollon people 509 Mogollon Rim 132 Moki Dugway 394 Monastery of Christ in the Desert 286 money 22, 549 discount cards 546 Montezuma Montezuma Castle 133 Montezuma Well 133 Monticello Monument Valley 16, 392 Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park 192 Mooney Falls 169 Mora Valley 311 Mormon people 518 Mormon Station State Historic Park 106 Morphy Lake State Park 311 motorcycle travel Arizona 110 Colorado 354 Mexico 554 Nevada 59 New Mexico 236 to/from Southwest USA 555 Utah 386 within Southwest USA motor-home travel 559 mountain biking 14, 44-6, 15, see also cycling Cloudcroft 340 Cortez 370 Crested Butte 383 festivals 367, 408 Flagstaff 153 Gallup 320 Glen Canyon National Recreation Area (AZ) 187 Kaibab National Forest 176 Lake Tahoe 108 Moab 404, 406 Needles District 400 Park City Santa Fe 263 Sedona 146 Silver City 330 Springdale 452 Taos 295 Mountain Meadows Massacre Monument 463 Mountain Peak 101 Mt Carmel 441 Mt Charleston 94 Mt Elden 153 Mt Timpanogos 499 Mule Canyon Ruins 395 murals 320, 351 museums & galleries Albuquerque Museum of Art & History 241 American International Rattlesnake Museum 241 Arizona History Museum Arizona Museum of Natural History 121 Arizona State Museum 208 Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum 209 ASU Art Museum Desert Caballeros Western Museum 134 Discovery Children s Museum 73 Explora! 242 Explore Navajo Interactive Museum 190 Georgia O Keeffe Museum Heard Museum Indian Pueblo Cultural Center 244 International UFO Museum & Research Center 345 John Wesley Powell Museum 186 Millicent Rogers Museum 293 Mine Museum 140 Mob Museum 71 Mohave Museum of History & Arts 199 Museum of Indian Arts & Culture 261 Museum of International Folk Art 261 Museum of Northern Arizona 152 Musical Instrument Museum National Atomic Testing Museum 73 National Automobile Museum 101 National Museum of Nuclear Science & History 244 Natural History Museum of Utah 467 Nevada Museum of Art 101 New Mexico Museum of Art 259, 13

8 567 New Mexico Museum of Natural History & Science 241 New Mexico Museum of Space History 338 Phippen Museum 137 Phoenix Art Museum 118 Route 66 Museum 199 Sharlot Hall Museum Smoki Museum 137 Way It Was Museum 105 Yavapai Geology Museum 164 music 540 festivals 30, 75, 214, 297, 330, 372, 408 N Nambé Falls 287 Nambé Pueblo 287 Nampeyo 542 national monuments 46 Aztec Ruins National Monument 316 Bandelier National Monument 284 Canyon de Chelly 16, 193, 16 Capulin Volcano National Monument 309 Casa Grande Ruins 219 Cedar Breaks National Monument 458 Chiricahua National Monument Dinosaur National Monument El Malpais National Monument 323 El Morro National Monument 322 Gila Cliff Dwellings Grand Staircase- Escalante National Monument Hovenweep National Monument 391 Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument 255 Montezuma Castle 133 Natural Bridges Navajo National Monument Organ Mountains- Desert Peaks National Monument 335 Organ Pipe Cactus 220 Rainbow Bridge National Monument 187 Río Grande del Norte 289 Salinas Pueblo Missions 254 Sunset Crater Volcano 159 Timpanogos Cave 499 Tuzigoot National Monument 143 Walnut Canyon National Monument 159 White Sands National Monument 18, 337-8, 18 Wupatki National Monument 160 national parks 46, 549, see also state parks Arches National Park , 414, 19 Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park 44, Bryce Canyon National Park 432-7, 433 Canyonlands National Park 19, , 398 Capitol Reef National Park , 420 Carlsbad Caverns National Park 17, 349, 17, 25 Park 11, , 162, 10-11, 45 Great Basin National Park 98 Great Sand Dunes National Park 383 Mesa Verde National Park 15, 364, 365, 15, 53 Pecos National Historic Park Petrified Forest National Park 234 Saguaro National Park Tumacácori National Historic Park 221 Zion National Park , 446 Native American people art 21, 524-5, 21 conflicts 511 festivals 30, 191, 196, 246, 303, 320 food 536 museums 244, 261 Natural Bridges National Monument Navajo Dam Navajo Lake (NM) 315 Navajo Lake (UT) 458 Navajo National Monument Navajo people 522 Navajo Reservation Needles District Nevada 55, , 60-1 accommodations 58 food 58 highlights 60-1 scenic routes 62 travel seasons 58 New Mexico 56, , accommodations 235 food 235 highlights 238 transportation 237 travel seasons 235 Newspaper Rock Recreation Area 396 Nichols, John 539 Nine Mile Canyon National Backcountry Byway 504 nuclear power 534 O Oak Creek Canyon Oak Creek Vista 151 Oatman 198 Ogden Ohkay Owingeh Pueblo 285 Ojo Caliente OK Corral 225-6, 514 O Keeffe, Georgia 285 Old Oraibi 196 opening hours 23, Organ Mountains-Desert Peaks National Monument 335 Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument 220 organized tours, see tours Ouray P Pagosa Springs Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge 95-6 Pahranagat Valley 95-6 Pahreah ghost town 442 Painted Desert 234 painting 541 Paiute people Pajarito Mountain 282 Palatki Heritage Site 145 Panguitch Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness Area Park City 20, 486 accommodations activities drinking 493 entertainment 493 festivals 489 food shopping 493 sights transportation Park Point 365 Parker Parker Dam 204 Parowan Gap 457 passports 548 Patagonia Patagonia Lake State Park 223 Pawn Stars 540 Payson 132 Peach Springs 181 Peavine National Recreation Trail 137 Pecos National Historic Park Pecos Pueblo Peñasco 290 Petrified Forest National Park 234 Petroglyph National Monument petroglyphs 510 Bluff 390 Capitol Reef National Park 421 Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area 97 Homolovi State Park 233 Inscription Rock 322 La Cieneguilla Petroglyph Site 267 McConkie Ranch Petroglyphs 500 Newspaper Rock Recreation Area 396 INDEX M-P

9 568 INDEX P-R petroglyphs continued Nine Mile Canyon National Backcountry Byway 504 Palatki Heritage Site 145 Parowan Gap 457 Petrified Forest National Park 234 Petroglyph National Monument Sand Island Petroglyphs 390 Three Rivers Petroglyph National Recreation Area 337 V-Bar-V Heritage Site 133 Phoenix 18, , 114, , 120 accommodations activities children, travel with 124 climate 109 drinking entertainment festivals & events 123 food information 131 Scottsdale , 122 shopping sights Tempe transportation Phoenix Mercury 130 Phoenix Suns 130 phonecards 552 photography 550 Picacho Peak State Park Picuris Pueblo 289 Pie Town 325 Piestewa Peak/Dreamy Draw Recreation Area 122 Pilar 291 Pilares Canyon 316 Pine Valley Mountain Wilderness planning budgeting 23 calendar of events children, travel with 51-4 internet resources 23, 59, 110, 236, 354, 386 itineraries 32-5, 32, 33, 34, 35 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 scenic drives 36-42, 38-9 Southwest USA basics 22-3 Southwest USA s regions 55-6 travel seasons 22, 29-31, 58 plants Point Imperial 183 Point Sublime 183 Pojoaque Pueblo 281 politics 506 polygamy 518 population 507, 520 Arizona 110 Colorado 353 Nevada 59 New Mexico 236 Utah 386 postal services 550 Potrillo Mountains 335 Potter Canyon 316 Powder Mountain 494 Prescott Price prostitution 77 Provo 499 public holidays 550 Pueblo Bonito 318 Pueblo Grande Museum & Archaeological Park 118 Pueblos 20, 523, 521 Acoma Pueblo 20, 324, 20 Chapin Mesa Citadel Pueblo 160 Cliff Palace 366 Cochiti Pueblo 255 Dominguez Pueblo 370 Escalante Pueblo 370 Isleta Pueblo 253 Kewa Pueblo 255 Kuaua Pueblo Laguna Pueblo 324 Lomaki Pueblo 160 museums 118, 244 Nambé Pueblo 287 New Mexico 240 Ohkay Owingeh Pueblo 285 Pecos Pueblo Picuris Pueblo 289 Pojoaque Pueblo 281 Pueblo Bonito 318 Salinas Pueblo Missions 254 San Felipe Pueblo 255 San Ildefonso Pueblo 281 Sandia Pueblo 253 Santa Ana Pueblo 254 Santa Clara Pueblo Taos Pueblo 20, 303 Tesuque Pueblo 281 Wetherill Mesa 366 Wukoki Pueblo 160 Wupatki Pueblo 160 Zuni Pueblo 20, Puerto de Luna 350 Puyé Cliff Dwellings 252, 282 Pyramid Lake 101 Pyramid Rock 319 Q Queen Mine 228 Questa 305 R racial stereotypes 517 rafting 17, 50, 17 Bluff 390 Colorado River 92, 45 Durango Park Green River 416 Moab Pagosa Springs 355 Reno 102 Santa Fe Taos 297 Vernal 500 railways Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railway Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad 359 Grand Canyon Railway 177 Heber Valley Historic Railroad 496 Nevada Northern Railway 97 Silverton Railroad Depot 380 Verde Canyon Railroad 143 Rainbow Bridge National Monument 187 Rainbow Canyon 96 Ralston, Aron 401 Ramah 322 Ramsey Canyon Preserve 224 Raton Raven s Ridge 267 Rawhide Western Town Real Salt Lake 475 Red Canyon 438 Red Cloud Scenic Backway 500 Red River Red Rock Canyon 90-1 Red Rock Park 319 Red Rock State Park 145 religion 507 Reno Rhyolite 95 Ridgway Rinconada 291 Rio Chama 263 Rio Grande 263 Río Grande del Norte 289 Riordan Mansion State Historic Park Riverbend Hot Springs 327 road rules rock art, see petroglyphs rock climbing 48 Albuquerque 246 Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park 382 Gallup 320 Granite Mountain Wilderness 137 Moab 407 Ridgway 376 Snow Canyon State Park 463 Zion National Park 449 rock formations 412 Rockhound State Park 333 Rockville 455 rodeos Albuquerque 246 Chama 314 Gallup 320 Las Cruces 334 Las Vegas 75 Payson 132 Prescott 137 Santa Fe 268, 269 Tucson 213 Roswell 344-7, 345 Route Route Route 66 13, 36-7, 40, , 350, 38-9, 13 Route Ruess, Everett 429 Ruidoso 341-3

10 569 RV travel 559 Rye Patch State Recreation Area 98 S Sabino Canyon 212 safety 220, 237, 554 Saguaro National Park Salinas Pueblo Missions 254 Salt Lake City 18, , 465, 466, activities children, travel with 473 climate 385 downtown 467 drinking 474 entertainment festivals & events 470 food information 476 shopping sights Temple Square 465-7, 18 tours transportation University-Foothills District Salt Lake City International Airport 553 same-sex marriage 506 San Felipe Pueblo 255 San Ildefonso Pueblo 281 San Juan Mountains 21, 371, 21 San Juan Skyway 371 San Miguel 312 San Pedro Riparian National Conservation Area 224 San Rafael Swell 504 Sand Island Petroglyphs 390 Sand Mountain Recreation Area 96 Sandia Crest 247 Sandia Peak Tramway 245 Sandia Pueblo 253 Santa Ana Pueblo 254 Santa Catalina Mountains Santa Clara Pueblo Santa Fe 13, , 258, 260, 264-5, 270, 13 accommodations activities children, travel with 262 climate 235 courses downtown drinking entertainment festivals & events food information 280 Museum Hill shopping sights tours 268 transportation 280 Santa Fe National Forest 312 Santa Rita Chino Open Pit Copper Mine 330 Santa Rosa scenic drives 36-42, 38-9 Arches National Park 415 Arizona 111 Billy the Kid Highway 39-40, 237 Bryce Canyon National Park 434 Burr Trail Rd 426 Caineville Wash Rd 424 Canyon de Chelly 16, 193-4, 16 Capitol Reef National Park 421, 420 Capulin Volcano & Folsom Man Territory 309 Chama to Taos 314 Chiricahua National Monument 230 Colorado 355 Colorado River Byway 424 Comb Wash Rd 424 Flaming Gorge-Uintas Scenic Byway 502 Park 183 Grand Staircase- Escalante National Monument 431 Hell s Backbone Rd 424 High Road to Taos 42, 237 Hwy 12 40, 423 Hwy , 458 Hwy 50 21, 40-1, 96-8, 21 Hwy , 188, Island in the Sky 398 Jemez Mountain Trail 283 La Sal Mountain Loop Rd 424 Loop-the-Fold 424 Mesa Verde National Park 368 Million Dollar Highway 41-2, 377, 37 Needles District 400 Nevada 62 New Mexico 237 Nine Mile Canyon National Backcountry Byway 504 Organ Pipe Cactus 220 Petrified Forest National Park 234 Red Cloud Scenic Backway 500 Red Rock Canyon 90 Route Route Route 66 13, 36-7, 40, , 350, 13 Route San Juan Skyway 371 Sandia Crest 247 Sedona Utah 387 Valle Vidal Loop 305 Valley of Fire State Park 91 Zion National Park 447 Scottsdale , 122 sculpture 541 Sedona 11, 146-7, 11 accommodations activities drinking 150 festivals 148 food 149 sights shopping 150 tours transportation 151 Sego Canyon 415 Seligman 201 senior travelers 546 Shakespeare 332 shopping 28, see also individual locations Shungopavi 195 Sichomovi 195 Sierra Blanca Peak 341 Silver City Silver Lake 484 Silver Reef Ghost Town 464 Silverton 353, Silverton Railroad Depot 380 Simon Canyon Recreation Area 315 Sipaulovi 195 Sitgreaves Pass 199 skiing & snowboarding 47-8 Angel Fire 307 Brian Head 459 Chama 314 Cloudcroft 340 Colorado s hut systems 376 Crested Butte Durango 359 Flagstaff 153 Park Lake Tahoe 107 Los Alamos 282 Mesa Verde National Park 367 Moab 407 Mt Charleston 94 Ogden 494 Pagosa Springs 358 Park City Red River 306 Ruidoso 341 Salt Lake City resorts Santa Fe 263 Silverton 380 Sipapu 290 Sundance Resort 498 Taos Ski Valley 304 Telluride 372 Truckee 108 Sky City 324 Sky Harbor International Airport 131, 553 Slide Rock State Park 151 Smith, Joseph 518 Smokey Bear Historical Park 351 Snow Canyon State Park 463 Snowbasin 494 Snowbird 482 snowboarding, see skiing & snowboarding Socorro Solitude Sonoita South Mountain Park Spaceport America 328 spas & hot springs 28, 18 Beatty 95 Black Rock Hot Springs 295 Brigham City 478 Durango 359 Genoa 106 INDEX R-S

11 570 INDEX S-T spas & hot springs continued Gila Hot Springs 333 Jemez Springs 283 Las Vegas 75 Manby Hot Springs 295 Montezuma Ojo Caliente 286 Ouray 378 Pagosa Springs 355 Park City 489 Spence Hot Springs 283 Taos 295 Truth or Consequences Spence Hot Springs 283 Spider Rock Overlook 193, 7 Spiral Jetty 479 Spring Mountain Ranch State Park 91 Springdale Springs Preserve 74 Spruce Tree House 366 St George Starvation State Park 503 state parks 550, see also national parks Antelope Island State Park Buckskin Mountain State Park 204 Cathedral Gorge State Park 97 Cimarron Canyon State Park 307 Clayton Lake State Park 309 Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park 444 Dead Horse Point State Park 401 Dead Horse Ranch State Park 143 Donner Memorial State Park 108 Elephant Butte Lake State Park 327 Emerald Bay State Park 107 Escalante Petrified Forest State Park 428 Fort Verde State Historic Park 133 Fremont Indian State Park 456 Goblin Valley State Park 417 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Goosenecks State Park Green River State Park 416 Homolovi State Park 233 Jerome State Historic Park 140 Kartchner Caverns State Park 231 Kodachrome Basin State Park 432 Lake Tahoe-Nevada State Park 108 Mormon Station State Historic Park 106 Morphy Lake State Park 311 Patagonia Lake State Park 223 Picacho Peak State Park Red Rock State Park 145 Riordan Mansion State Historic Park Rockhound State Park 333 Slide Rock State Park 151 Snow Canyon State Park 463 Spring Mountain Ranch State Park 91 Starvation State Park 503 Tombstone Courthouse State Historic Park 226 Tonto Natural Bridge State Park 132 Valley of Fire State Park 91 Villanueva State Park 312 Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Park 97 Yuma Quartermaster Depot State Park 205 Stegner, Wallace 429 Step House 366 Stillwater National Wildlife Refuge 96 Sundance Film Festival 29, 498 Sundance Resort 498 Sundeen, Mark 429 Sunset Crater Volcano 159 T Tahoe City Tallac Historic Site 107 Taos 16, , 292, 296, 16 accommodations activities drinking 301 entertainment festivals & events 297 food information 302 sights tours 297 transportation Taos Pueblo 20, 303 Taos Ski Valley 304 Taos Society of Artists 298 Tavasci Marsh 143 telephone services Telluride Tempe Tempest Williams, Terry 429 Tent Rocks 267 Tesuque Pueblo 281 The Hangover 540 theater 542 Thompson, Hunter S 539 Three Rivers Petroglyph National Recreation Area 337 time 22 Arizona 110 Colorado 354 Nevada 59 New Mexico 236 Utah 386 Timpanogos Cave National Monument 499 tipping 549 Toadlena 317 Tohono O odham people 524 Tombstone 12, 225-7, 514 Tombstone Courthouse State Historic Park 226 Tonopah 95 Tonto Natural Bridge State Park 132 Topock Gorge 198 Toquima Cave 97 Torrey tours Albuquerque 246 Boulder 427 Bryce Canyon National Park 435 Canyon de Chelly Escalante 428 Park 170 Hoover Dam 90 Hopi Reservation 196 Kanab 442 Las Vegas 75 Mesa Verde National Park 367 Salt Lake City Santa Fe 268 Sedona Springdale 452 St George Taos 297 Torrey 423 Zion National Park train travel to/from Southwest USA 555 within Southwest USA 559 travel to/from Southwest USA travel within Southwest USA trekking, see hiking Trinity Site 339 Truchas 288 Truchas Peak 290 Truckee 108 Truth or Consequences Tsaile 193 Tsankawi 284 Tuba City Tubac 221 Tucson 17, , 208, 210, 212, 17 accommodations children, travel with 209 drinking entertainment 217 festivals & events food information 218 shopping sights transportation 218 Tucson International Airport 553 Tucumcari Tularosa 338 Tumacácori National Historic Park 221 Turquoise Trail Tusayan Tuzigoot National Monument 143 TV Two Grey Hills 317

12 571 U UFOs 95, 346 Unionville 98 University of Arizona University of Nevada, Reno University of New Mexico 243 Upper Calf Creek Falls 431 Utah 56, , 388-9, 393, 419 accommodations 385 drinking 394 food 385 highlights travel seasons 385 Utah Grizzlies 475 Utah Jazz 475 Utah Olympic Park Ute Mountain Tribal Park 367 Ute people 524 V vacations 550 Valle 176 Valle Vidal Loop 305 Valles Caldera National Preserve 283 Valley of Fire State Park 91 Valley of Fires Recreation Area 344 Valley of the Gods 392 V-Bar-V Heritage Site 133 vegan travelers 538 vegetarian travelers 538 Verde Canyon Railroad 143 Verde Valley 133, 135 Vernal Very Large Array Radio Telescope 252, 325 Veyo 463 Villanueva 312 Villanueva State Park 312 Virgin 455 Virginia City Visa Waiver Program 548 visas Vulture Mine 134 W Walker Lake State Recreation Area 95 walking, see hiking Walnut Canyon National Monument 159 Walpi 195 Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Park 97 Wasatch Mountains , 480, 20 waterfalls Beaver Falls 169 Bridal Veil Falls Cascade Falls 458 Havasu Falls 179 Lava Falls 169, 323 Mooney Falls 169 Nambé Falls 287 Upper Calf Creek Falls 431 Watson Lake 137 weather 22, 507, see also individual locations websites, see internet resources Wedge Overlook 504 Wells West Wendover 101 Westwater Canyon 404 Wetherill Mesa 366 Wheeler Peak 304 White Mountains Wilderness 341 White Sands National Monument 18, 337-8, 18 white-water rafting, see rafting Wickenburg wildflowers 29 wildlife 24, Williams Window Rock 191 wine 27, 537 Albuquerque 245 Deming 333 Dixon 291 festivals 246, 269 Sonoita 223 Verde Valley 133, 135 Winslow Wolf Mountain 494 wolves 532 Wukoki Pueblo 160 Wupatki National Monument 160 Wupatki Pueblo 160 WWII 62, 514 Y Yuma Yuma Quartermaster Depot State Park 205 Yuma Territorial Prison State Historic Park 205 Z Zion National Park , 446 ziplining 177 Zuni Pueblo 20, INDEX U-Z

13 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 575 Map Legend Sights Beach Bird Sanctuary Buddhist Castle/Palace Christian Confucian Hindu Islamic Jain Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Ruin Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Shinto Sikh Taoist Winery/Vineyard Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Other Sight Activities, Courses & Tours Bodysurfing Diving Canoeing/Kayaking Course/Tour Skiing Snorkeling Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Activity Sleeping Eating Sleeping Camping Eating Drinking & Nightlife Drinking & Nightlife Cafe Entertainment Entertainment Shopping Shopping Information Bank Embassy/Consulate Hospital/Medical Internet Police Post Office Telephone Toilet Tourist Information Other Information Geographic Beach Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall Population Capital (National) Capital (State/Province) City/Large Town Town/Village Transport Airport BART station Border crossing Boston T station Bus Cable car/funicular Cycling Ferry Metro/Muni station Monorail Parking Petrol station Subway/SkyTrain station Taxi Train station/railway Tram Underground station Other Transport Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book Routes Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed road Road under construction Plaza/Mall Steps Tunnel Pedestrian overpass Walking Tour Walking Tour detour Path/Walking Trail Boundaries International State/Province Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall Hydrography River, Creek Intermittent River Canal Water Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Reef Areas Airport/Runway Beach/Desert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Glacier Mudflat Park/Forest Sight (Building) Sportsground Swamp/Mangrove

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