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2 São Paulo In 2 Days A Travel Itinerary and Guide Edition 2.1 E-Book by Christopher Van Buren Available from 2

3 São Paulo In 2 Days: A Travel Itinerary and Guide Copyright 2008 by Christopher Van Buren. All rights reserved. Photos Copyright 2006 by Christopher Van Buren. All rights reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced, sold or distributed without permission. This includes text, photos, or graphics copied from this book for use in print, electronic or any other media. This is a FREE DOWNLOAD and may be copied and distributed freely, provided the entire book remains unchanged and intact. No portions of this book may be excerpted or copied or reproduced in any way or form without the permission of the author. This includes photos, text and other elements. São Paulo In 2 Days is a publication of The Brazil Travel Site. For more information, see the publisher's site Suggestions & Contributions We welcome your comments and suggestions for this or any of our travel guides. If you know of a "Best of" that we missed, or have other tips or suggestions, please send them our way at backfrombrazil2004@yahoo.com or use the form at our site: thebraziltravelsite.com 3

4 Independent & Interactive Not a web site. Travel web sites are great and offer lots of information for free. But that means that they survive on advertising and sometimes listing fees. You either get too many choices with no guidance on what to choose...or you get paid listings without the trust you can put in an independent source. Not a book. Travel handbooks are essential for taking with you on the road. There's just no replacing the old, standard ink on paper guide when you're out in the field. But for planning your trip, and filling in the details, there's nothing like an interactive guide, full of online resources, links, and special tools. This is an interactive e- book. It is filled with live links that take you to special information inside and outside of the book. If you are connected to the Internet while reading this book, you will be able to jump to related sites and online resources using the links within. You can find special information and notes about any highlighted text in the footnoes on page 38. This guide also works independently. You can take it with you on CD or other media and read it at your leisure on any computer, with or without an Internet connection. In addition to the many links provided herein, we encourage you to visit our site at to see our additional travel informaiton and resources. Also, please send us your comments and suggestions using our form. A word about size This e-book is designed to be exactly the same size and dimensions as its printed counterpart, in order to demonstrate a consistent value between the two. Whether you prefer the electronic or printed version, you will get the same information at a comparable price. This e-book also includes a printable version using a standard paper size for at-home printing. 4

5 About the Author Christopher Van Buren studied art and English in San Diego, California and spent the majority of his career in various facets of the publishing business, as an editor, writer, and even publisher. He wrote over 15 books in the area of computers and technology, including Using Excel for the Macintosh (Que), The MacWorld Excel 5 Companion (IDG) and Poor Richard s Creating E-Books. He recently finished traveling throughout Brazil, doing research for his new book, Moon Handbooks Brazil, published in January, 2007 by Avalon Travel Publishing ( He also writes magazine articles on Brazilian business. You can contact Christopher at backfrombrazil2004@yahoo.com Moon Handbooks Brazil The Complete Guide 760 pages edition $21.95 Available wherever travel books are sold Acknowledgments Thanks to all my Brazilian friends who helped me get this book into reality. Special thanks go to Marcelo Thalenberg for so much support and advice and to Marco Roza for help with promotion. 5

6 Other Travel E-Books by The Brazil Travel Site Belo Horizonte In 24 Hours A Travel Itinerary 26 pages plus 14 page printable version FREE DOWNLOAD Rio de Janeiro In 3 Days A Travel Itinerary 28 pages plus 16 page printable version FREE DOWNLOAD Also Brazil Photo Book FREE DOWNLOAD 6

7 Contents A Food and Nightlife Mecca...8 Day One...10 Day Two...15 Best of São Paulo...19 Links and Resources...21 Printable Version

8 A Food and Nightlife Mecca Brazil is a big place and its great cities are vast and congested. São Paulo, the third largest city in the world by population (and the largest in South America) can take a lifetime to conquer. It's made up of a number of colorful neighborhoods, called bairros, of which many were established by immigrant populations--greek, Italian, Japanese, Arabic, and Portuguese. In terms of culture, São Paulo is one of South America's richest cities, hosting the continent's best modern art museum and most important symphonic group. São Paulo is also a portal back in time to Brazil's great coffee boom of the early 19th century and its many opulent public buildings reveal this magical time in Brazil's history. With this fascinating mixture of people and history, São Paulo also offers Brazil's most eclectic dining and nightlife options with many of the best restaurants in the country. Come see and taste for yourself. 8

9 São Paulo in 2 Days São Paulo is so big and spread out that it intimidates a lot of travelers, but two days are really about all you need to take in all the main points. You'll be taking the metro a lot, but that's pretty much what everybody does in Sampa (as the locals call it). In this quick tour, you'll see the historical center and all of the fabulous monuments and buildings from the coffee boom days of the late 1800s. Plus, you'll go shopping in the Jardins neighborhood and visit the city's two best art museums. In your two nights out, you'll see a few of the main nightlife centers and taste some of the local cuisine. Of course, there's a lot more to the world s third largest city, so you might want to come back another time to take-in some of the finer points. 9

10 Day One 8:30 a.m. Start out by taking the metro 1 to the República station (on the red line). If you are staying downtown, you may be close enough to walk there. Walk north along Av. Ipiranga until you reach Av. Itapetininga. Turn right and explore the area s outdoor pedestrian shopping market. As you walk around and look in the shops, slowly continue moving to the east (farther down Av. Ipiranga) until you reach the Viaduto do Chá. There you'll find the historic Theatro Municipal. Be sure to go in for a look and ask about guided tours. You may also ask about the evening s presentations. The building is best seen from the inside, but the sculptures at the main entrance as you walk into the building should not be missed. You might also enjoy checking out the sculpted fountain in the lower garden area. Where to Stay For non-business travelers, the most popular places to stay in São Paulo are in the old downtown area and in the Avenida Paulista area. There are advantages and disadvantages to both. The downtown area is older and a bit run down, but it is slowly being rennovated and turning into a charming, if slightly dirty, place to stay. Naturally, the hotels here are among the most economical. Try Hotel Sao Francisco for cozy, economical rooms. There is an excellent youth hostel in this area, called the Albergue São Paulo. Another advantage to this area is that it's located near most of the city's museums, historical monuments and important architectural works. The Avenida Paulista area is the city's upscale district (the part near the Consolação and MASP metro stations, anyway). Here you'll find all types of hotels and nice, clean 10:00 a.m. Continue walking east until you reach the northwest corner of the Praça da Sé (the praça will be to your right), the city's central reference point and principal 10

11 metro hub. If you're up for a snack, try some of the fresh pasteis 2 in the small food stands around the praça. Otherwise, go ahead and make your way inside the Catedral da Sé for a look around and maybe a guided tour. 11:00 a.m. Walk straight out of the Catedral, across the praça and down Rua João Bricola. A block or two down the road, you'll pass the Patio do Colégio, which has a cozy outdoor café and a museum of the city 3. Be sure to see the catacombs in the lower portion of the building. conditions. Try the Mercure Paulista or the Tulip Inn for a couple of mid-range options. Of course, everything is just a bit more here, but there are a few economical options too. For example, there's the Ibis Consolação. This is one of the city's great nightlife areas, so you'll be close to many eating and drinking options here. During the day, it's mostly an upscale shopping and business district. At the far southern end of Avenida Paulista is the Paraíso metro station. Here you'll find a number of good hotels at decent prices and you'll be very close to the Paraíso metro station, which is an important hub for metro connections. Try the Formule 1 Paraíso, which is right outside the metro station at Paraíso. 11

12 Noon Continue down Rua João Bricola until you reach the Banespa building on the left. From the top of this historical building, the city of São Paulo seems to spread out forever a never-ending sea of concrete and cars. The tour is free 4 and the view is interesting even on a smoggy day. Afterward, walk over to Kilu s Grill (Rua XV de Novembro 250) for a typical São Paulo selfservice buffet 5 and barbecue. 2:00 p.m. Continue walking north until you get to the São Bento metro station, where you'll take the metro one stop to the Luz station. The station itself has been renovated and is an excellent example of the architecture of the coffee boom era in Brazil. Outside the station, catch a cab just a few blocks to the Pinacoteca museum, where you'll see some of the finest art and sculpture works in the city. 5:00 p.m. Ready for a snack and a beer? Catch a cab directly from the Pinacoteca to the nearby Mercado Municipal and seek out the incredible eateries there. Be sure to take a minute to look at the building itself, especially the rare and beautiful stained glass windows. When you're ready, take a taxi back to the São Bento metro station and then head back to your hotel for a nap and a shower. 12

13 Where What it's like Where to go Avenida Paulista & Jardins Vila Madalena Bela Vista (Bexiga) Moema Rua Augusta A variety of bars, cafés and upscale establishments. You'll also find dance clubs and gay clubs nearby. Great to walk the Jardins area and people watch. Bohemian crowd, rock and roll clubs and a variety of restaurants, pizza joints, and cafés. Great to walk around. The city's Italian district. Offers a street lined with music and dance clubs, Italian restaurants and cafés. Good people watching in the main area. South of Paulista, this area offers some excellent beer gardens and restaurants for a more mellow and mature crowd. A lively street on the Jardins side and the city's red light district on the Downtown side. Full of strip clubs and food joints. Walk along the streets just west of Av. Paulista around the Consolação and Trianon/MASP metro stations to get a feel for the options. It goes on and on for about three square kilometers with most of the options around Rua Augusta and Rua Haddock Lobo. The area comprises about four square city blocks and you can easily walk around it to check out the options. Try Empanadas (Rua Wisard 489) and Bar do Sacha (Rua Original 89). Everything takes place on Rua Treze de Maio, so just get there and walk the long block to choose your eating and drinking establishments for the evening. Try the area around the Largo de Moema for food and drinks. A good choice is the Companhia Cervejaria Imperial (Largo de Moema 76). Walk along the street from Av. Paulista toward downtown a few blocks to get a feel. Don't bring any valuables with you on this journey and don't walk too far away from the crowd. 13

14 9:00 p.m. Your night out in São Paulo is going to require that you make some choices. The city is so big and it's nightlife hubs so spread apart, you really have to choose one main area for the evening s activities. The table above offers a few hints. 14

15 Day Two 8:30 a.m. Today starts with some shopping madness in the city's upscale shopping district, known as Jardins. Even if you don't plan to do any shopping, this area is the city's most bustling daytime business district 6 and you'll find many of the city's best restaurants, finest boutiques, and coziest cafés. The people watching along Avenida Paulista is excellent. Take the green line metro to the Consolação station. From this station, you can wonder the streets heading south and west as far as Al. Lorena to the west and as far as the MASP metro station to the south. 15

16 Early Riser? If you're up early and want to get a refreshing start on the day, head over to the Parque Ibirapuera for a walk or jog around the park. There are many paths that take you around the lake and past the Niemeyer architectural complex for the Museum of Modern Art (MAM). Have the taxi let you off at the fountain, where you can begin your walk around the lake and through the park. Jardins Walking Tour A possible trajectory for your walking tour of the Jardins area is to head straight down Rua Haddock Lobo from the metro station (going west or downhill). Turn left on Al. Lorena until Rua Augusta where you turn left again and head back up the hill to Av. Paulista. From there, you can walk south to the MASP station or cross back down and along some of the other streets. 10:30 a.m. Duck into the MASP Museum of Art São Paulo to see South America's most important art museum. You'll find works by Renoir, Van Gogh, Monet, and many other European greats, plus many important Brazilian artists. There are several floors of exhibits and the great works are in the basement. 1:00 p.m. You have a huge selection of lunch options within easy access of the MASP building. A couple of possibilities include Koi (Al. Tietê 360) for sushi and Dona Lucinha (Rua Bela Cintra 2325) for savory Brazilian food. A good healthy buffet is available at Saude & Sabor (Rua Luis Coelho 214). All of these are a quick, five-minute taxi ride from the MASP. 2:30 p.m. You have two options for the rest of the afternoon. You can wander around the Jardins area some more and sample some of the tasty sweets and coffees that abound in the area. Or look into the many art galleries 16

17 and home decoration stores. Just continue where you left off before lunch. Another option is a walk around the city's central park, known as Parque Ibirapuera, which is just south of the Jardins area 7 (about 15 minutes by taxi). In the park, you'll get to walk the various footpaths, view the flora and fauna of the area, gaze at two important Brazilian monuments (the Obelisk and the Bandeirantes), plus enter the popular Museum of Modern Art complex, built by Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer 8. Monuments The Bandeirantes monument at the north end of the park honors the bandeirantes, the explorers from São Paulo who traveled throughout Brazil in search of gold and other treasures in the 17th century. They are responsible for the discovery of gold and jewels that brought the gold rush of The Obelisc monument honors the proponents of Brazil's newest constitution. 5:00 p.m. Head back to your hotel for a little freshening up before your second night out on the town. You have plenty of time for a sauna or swim at the hotel, but if you are not in the mood for relaxing, then take this opportunity to explore one of the city's interesting neighborhoods. Try the Liberdade area to see the Japanese culture in São Paulo or the Bela Vista area to see the Italian culture. You can also go as far as the Vila Madelena neighborhood (last metro stop on the west end of the green line) to see the city's artistic and bohemian side. Dinner is not until 8 p.m., so you have plenty of time to check out one of these areas. 8:00 p.m. Dinner options are practically infinite in São Paulo, so here are a few suggestions that will get you started. For the city's best sushi, head over to Sushiguen (Av. Brigadeiro Luis Antônio 2367) in the Jardins area. One of my favorite Italian restaurants in the city is 17

18 Rosamarino (Rua Henrique Monteiro 44) in the Pinheiros neighborhood. One of the best seafood options is Salmon & Co. (Al. Jaú 1199) in the Jardins area and you'll get a great pizza at Margherita (Al Tietê 255) in Jardins. For more food and nightlife choices, see the table on page

19 Best of São Paulo Best Pizza São Paulo is famous for its many pizzerias and it's said that seven pizzas are consumed every minute in this vast city. You have some excellent options in the Bela Vista area and in the Jardins neighborhood too. One of the best is Margherita (Al Tietê 255) in Jardins. Best Pub The city's most traditional pub is located in the old downtown area, called Bar Brahma (Av. São João 677). Head over for happy hour and stay as long as you like. Best Beer Selection If you want variety in your beer selection, try Frangó (Largo da Matriz 168) in the Zona Norte area. You can take the metro to the last northern stop on the blue line (Tucuruvi station) and take a cab from there. Remember, the last metro is at midnight. Best Brazilian Barbecues The city's most upscale and impressive barbecue options is the famous Figueira Rubaiyat (Rua Haddock Lobo 1738) in the Jardins area. Best Bakery You'll find some great breads and sweets at St. Etienne (Al. Joaquim Eugênio De Lima 1417) in the south end of the Jardins area. They have plenty of outdoor seating. Best Shopping Mall One of the biggest shopping malls in the Americas is in the Guarulhos area on the way to the airport. It's called Shopping America and you can spend hours there looking around. The most quaint and charming mall is Higienópolis Shopping in the Higienópolis neighborhood near downtown. Best Coffee Shop Suplicy (Al. Lorena 1430) in the Jardins area offers the best coffee drinks and a super-clean and modern atmosphere. A cozy-style café is Santo Grão (Rua Oscar Freire 413), also in the Jardins area. Best View of the City The best view of the city is from the top of the Edificio Itália near Praça da República downtown. For best results, go at night and have a drink in the bar and look out on the city lights. Drink minimum is R$25 per person. 19

20 Best Discount Shopping The Brás neighborhood (Brás metro station on the red line) is the city's official garment district and you'll find the best prices on clothing, luggage, and all kinds of other things. Best Things to Buy You can find all kinds of great buys in São Paulo and some of the best items are clothing (Brás neighborhood) and shoes (Brás and all around the city). Got More Bests? Do you have additions for this list of the city's "best of" options? Send them my way and I may add them to the next edition. I look forward to hearing what you think is best about São Paulo. 20

21 Links & Resources The Brazil Travel Site the author's official site ( First, a plug for my own site, where you'll find information about Brazil, plus other travel e-books, ready for download, including Rio de Janeiro in 3 Days. You'll also find updates, news, and extras for the Brazil traveler. About Brazil & Brazil Travel These are the top sites for getting an overview of Brazil--what's there, how to travel, what you need, etc. Most of these are hosted by government or major organizations. Brazil Consulate in London ( This is the best and friendliest of the consulate sites with information about Brazil as well as details about how to prepare yourself to get there. Remember, however, that if you are not British, you should take a look at one of the sites in your country for information on visas and other preparations.. Brazil Consulate in San Francisco ( One of the best sites for information on Brazil travel preparations, rules, and other info (for Americans). Brazilian Ministry of Tourism ( The Brazilian Ministry of Tourism keeps a very informative site in English and Portuguese with information about travel destinations, travel tips, links, and news. Embratur ( Another site by the Brazilian government--this one sponsored by the office of international tourism. Their site has plenty of information for international travelers and is presented in several languages. Particularly useful is information about guides and official agents. You can contact them to check the credentials of any guide. Anhembi ( A site run by the business tourism organization, Anhembi, in São Paulo. It covers a lot about São Paulo, but also gives information about Brazil travel in general--especially for business travel. 21

22 Brazil News These are sites offering news from Brazil or about Brazil. There are many sources for news stories about Brazil, but these are the best for getting a Brazil focus. Remember that I provide a summary of current news that I think would be of interest to anyone thinking of traveling to Brazil (including travel agents). I often summarize press releases from important travel organizations in Brazil as well as general news stories that affect tourists. Brazillink ( This site is the first place to go for news concerning Brazil. It summarizes all the major stories from all over the web and provides links to the full stories. Naturally, it uses a few main sources, but it is by far the most eclectic and complete. Brazil Travel Magazines Online Here is a list of top online magazines about Brazil. These will get you inspired and help you decide what you want to see when you get here. Most of these have great stories and travel information, along with tips on where to stay and where to eat. Brazzil ( This site is rich in articles about Brazil and travel destinations. Most articles are travel oriented, but some are just interesting commentaries on Brazil or from Brazilians. BrazilMax ( A great site with plenty of articles on Brazil's many vacation spots. This is probably the best quality site for articles, since all contributors are professionals. There is also a blog, photo galleries, and reader forums. It is run by Bill Hinchberger, an American journalist living in São Paulo. Gringoes ( Another site for gringos traveling to Brazil with articles and tips. Booking and Reservations Here are a few sites to help you get started with hotels and bookings. However, I suggest you use the listings and contact information provided in Moon Handbooks Brazil. It can be very difficult to know which hotels are best and my selections and comments in the book are probably going to be most helpful. ondehospidar.com ( A listing and booking service for hotels across the country--written for Brazilians, but if you can translate the page, you may find it useful for comparing prices. They also present special deals that you may want to check out. 22

23 Roteiro de Charme ( This will get you to the official site of the Roteiro de Charme, which is a group of hotels that share a set of rules and standards of style and operation. These are often some of the most charming and well-run hotels in the country. Not always the cheapest, of course. Accor Hotels ( Access to all of the hotels in the Accor chains, which includes Ibis, Formule 1, Parthenon, and others. This is one of the largest hotel organizations in Brazil with hotels all over the country and many of the best hotels in São Paulo. Atlantica Hoteis ( Another of Brazil's large companies with many hotel chains. This is their official site in English. City Sites & Destination Guides Just about every city and tourist destination in Brazil has a site dedicated to it and the popular destinations have many. Some sites are official and others are run by enthusiasts or tourism professionals. There are literally thousands of sites that could be listed here, so I've limited this list to just the most robust and well-run sites. You'll find a mixture of languages offered, so keep an eye on the columns to the right for language indicators. Locations listed in parentheses indicate the name of the chapter in Moon Handbooks Brazil where you'll find this destination listed. Feirias Brasil (all locations) ( This site, in Portuguese only, has a great quick-view of many tourist destinations. Each destination has links for hotels, privately run sites, things to do, places to eat and more. If you can translate the page, it will give you some great supplemental information, but use Moon Handbooks Brazil for advice on where to go, what to see and where to stay. Terra City Guide (all locations) ( Another general site in Portuguese with searchable listings of all tourist destinations in Brazil. You may find some helpful information here to supplement your other sources, but there is just too much to be useful and much of it is paid advertising. Better to trust the book, which is totally objective and independent. Brazil4you (all locations) ( Another general site in Portuguese and English with information on Brazil's most popular attractions and a few of the lesser known ones. Another good overview site that may help you plan your trip. 23

24 Amazonas (The Amazon) ( Good information about the Central Amaon Region and ways to visit. This is run by a travel agency, so the information is obviously tailored to emphasize their offerings. Still, it's worth a look for basic Amazon info. Bahia.com (Salvador & Southern Bahia) ( An excellent and very complete site about Bahia, including everything in the state. The state is divided into various sub-regions, such as the Discovery Coast, but just poke around and you'll find everything there. Remember that most of these general guide sites have paid listings, so they are not always the most reliable source for hotel and restaurant referrals. Abrolhos Islands (Southern Bahia) ( Santa Catarina (Santa Catarina) ( Riotur (Rio de Janeiro) ( Estradareal (Central Minas Gerais) ( Ouro Preto (Central Minas Gerais) ( Angra dos Reis (Rio de Janeiro) ( Bahia Online (Salvador) ( Buzios Explorer (Rio State) ( Emtursa (Salvador) ( Fernando de Noronha (Natal & Fortaleza) ( Foz de Iguaçú (Curitiba) ( Foz de Iguaçú (Curitiba) ( Pipa (Natal & Fortaleza) ( 24

25 Praias Online (São Paulo Coast to Rio) ( Ubatuba (São Paulo Coast to Rio) ( 25

26 Organizations (Government and NGOs) Here is a list of government and non-government organizations in Brazil and around the world that are related to Brazil, the environment, South America, and related topics. IBAMA ( Brazil's government-sponsored environmental organization. Projeto Arara Azul ( The Hyacinth Macaw Project site, based in the Pantanal. TAMAR ( The Marine Turtle site, based in Bahia. Projeto Peixe Boi ( The Manatee Preservation Project site, based in Recife. Volunteer Adventures ( An organization to help people set up and join volunteer projects all over the world. Brazil Tour Guides ( A listing of tour guides that you can contact before your trip. Search based on location and area of expertise. FUNAI ( Brazil's government-sponsored organization to assist aboriginal groups. Conservation International do Brasil ( An independent organization to help with environmental issues in Brazil. FB-CVB ( The national office of Brazil's Convention and Visitors Bureaus. All CVBs are listed here. Amazon Watch ( Environmental activist group focusing on the Amazon. GORP A site for hiking and camping adventures with some info on Brazil. Planeta ( A news site with information about eco-tourism and environmental issues. 26

27 São Paulo In 2 Days Printable Version The following pages (25-37) provide a printable version of this e-book, optimized for black & white copies and reduced to a minimum amount of pages. It is also designed to allow two-sided copies and it fits inside most day planner systems, with plenty of room to punch holes.

28 São Paulo In 2 Days Christopher Van Buren Author of "Moon Handbooks Brazil" Edition 28

29 São Paulo In 2 Days A Travel itinerary and Guide Copyright 2008 by Christopher Van Buren. All rights reserved. Photos Copyright 2006 by Christopher Van Buren. All rights reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced, sold or distributed without permission. This includes text, photos, or graphics copied from this book for use in print, electronic or any other media. If you have any doubts, contact the publisher to be sure you are not breaking the law. This is a FREE DOWNLOAD and may be copied and distributed freely, provided the entire book remains unchanged and intact. No portions of this book may be excerpted or copied or reproduced in any way or form without the permission of the author. This includes photos, text and other elements. São Paulo In 2 Days is a publication of The Brazil Travel Site. For more information, see the publisher's site 29

30 São Paulo In 2 Days A Travel Itinerary and Guide E-Book by Christopher Van Buren author of "Moon Handbooks Brazil" Edition Available from 30

31 Contents A Food and Nightlife Mecca Day One Day Two Footnotes Best of São Paulo

32 Intro A Food and Nightlife Mecca Brazil is a big place and its great cities are vast and congested. São Paulo, the third largest city in the world by population (and the largest in South America), can take a lifetime to conquer. It's made up of a number of colorful neighborhoods, called bairros, of which many were established by immigrant populations Greek, Italian, Japanese, Arabic, and Portuguese. In terms of culture, São Paulo is one of South Americas richest cities, hosting the continent's best modern art museum and most important symphonic group. São Paulo is also a portal back in time to Brazil's great coffee boom of the early 19th century and its many opulent public buildings reveal this magical time in Brazil's history. With this fascinating mixture of people and history, São Paulo also offers Brazil's most eclectic dining and nightlife options with many of the best restaurants in the country. Come see and taste for yourself. Rio de Janeiro In 3 Days Downloadable e-book FREE DOWNLOAD Belo Horizonte In 24 Hours Downloadable e-book FREE DOWNLOAD 32

33 São Paulo in 2 Days São Paulo is so big and spread out that it intimidates a lot of travelers, but two days is really about all you need to take in all the main points. You'll be taking the metro a lot, but that's pretty much what everybody does in Sampa (as the locals call it). In this quick tour, you'll see the historical center and all of the fabulous monuments and buildings from the coffee boom days of the late 1800s. Plus, you'll go shopping in the Brás neighborhood and visit the city's two best art museums. In your two nights out, you'll see a few of the main nightlife centers and taste some of the local cuisine. Of course, there's a lot more to the world s third largest city, so you might want to come back another time to take-in some of the finer points. Day 1 Day One 8:30 a.m. Start out by taking the metro 1 to the República station (on the red line). If you are staying downtown, you may be close enough to walk there. Walk north along Av. Ipiranga until you reach Av. Itapetininga. Turn right and explore the area s outdoor pedestrian shopping market. As you walk around and look in the shops, slowly continue moving to the east (farther down Av. Ipiranga) until you reach the Viaduto do Chá. There you'll find the historic Theatro Municipal. Be sure to go in for a look and ask about guided tours. You may also ask about the evening s presentations. The building is best seen from the inside, but the sculptures at the main entrance as you walk into the building should not be missed. You might also enjoy checking out the sculpted fountain in the lower garden area. Where to Stay For non-business travelers, the most popular places to stay in São Paulo are in the old downtown area and in the Avenida Paulista area. There are advantages and disadvantages to both. The downtown area is older and a bit run down, but it is slowly being rennovated and turning into a charming, if slightly dirty, place to stay. Naturally, the hotels here are among the most economical. Try Hotel Sao Francisco for cozy, economical rooms. There is an excellent youth hostel in this area, called the Albergue São Paulo. 33

34 10:00 a.m. Continue walking east until you reach the northwest corner of the Praça da Sé (the praça will be to your right), the city's central reference point and principal metro hub. If you're up for a snack, try some of the fresh pasteis 2 in the small food stands around the praça. Otherwise, go ahead and make your way inside the Catedral da Sé for a look around and maybe a guided tour. 11:00 a.m. Walk straight out of the Catedral, across the praça and down Rua João Bricola. A block or two down the road, you'll pass the Patio do Colégio, which has a cozy outdoor café and a museum of the city 3. Be sure to see the catacombs in the lower portion of the building. Noon Continue down Rua João Bricola until you reach the Banespa building on the left. From the top of this historical building, the city of São Paulo seems to spread out forever a never-ending sea of concrete and cars. The tour is free 4 and the view is interesting even on a smoggy day. Afterward, walk over to Kilu s Grill (Rua XV de Novembro 250) for a typical São Paulo self-service buffet 5 and barbecue. 2:00 p.m. Continue walking north until you get to the São Bento metro station, where you'll take the metro one stop to the Luz station. The station itself has been renovated and is an excellent example of the architecture of the coffee boom era in Brazil. Outside the station, catch a cab just a few blocks to the Pinacoteca museum, where you'll see some of the finest art and sculpture works in the city. continued Another advantage to this area is that it s located near most of the city s museums, historical monuments and important architectural works. The Avenida Paulista area is the city's upscale district (the part near the Consolação and MASP metro stations, anyway). Here you'll find all types of hotels and nice, clean conditions. Try the Mercure Paulista or the Tulip Inn for a couple of mid-range options. Of course, everything is just a bit more here, but there are a few economical options too. For example, there's the Ibis Consolação. This is one of the city's great nightlife areas, so you ll be close to many eating and drinking options here. During the day, it's mostly an upscale shopping and business district. At the far southern end of Avenida Paulista is the Paraíso metro station. Here you'll find a number of good hotels at decent prices and you'll be very close to the Paraíso metro station, which is an important hub for metro connections. Try the Formule 1 Paraíso, which is right outside the metro station at Paraíso. 34

35 5:00 p.m. Ready for a snack and a beer? Catch a cab directly from the Pinacoteca to the nearby Mercado Municipal and seek out the incredible eateries there. Be sure to take a minute to look at the building itself, especially the rare and beautiful stained glass windows. When you're ready, take a taxi back to the São Bento metro station and then head back to your hotel for a nap and a shower. 9:00 p.m. Your night out in São Paulo is going to require that you make some choices. The city is so big and it's nightlife hubs so spread apart, you really have to choose one main area for the evening s activities. The table below offers a few hints. Where What it's like Where to go Avenida Paulista & Jardins Vila Madalena Bela Vista (Bexiga) Moema Rua Augusta A variety of bars, cafés and upscale establishments. You'll also find dance clubs and gay clubs nearby. Great to walk the Jardins area and people watch. Bohemian crowd, rock and roll clubs and a variety of restaurants, pizza joints, and cafés. Great to walk around. The city's Italian district. Offers a street lined with music and dance clubs, Italian restaurants and cafés. Good people watching in the main area. South of Paulista, this area offers some excellent beer gardens and restaurants for a more mellow and mature crowd. A lively street on the Jardins side and the city's red light district on the Downtown side. Full of strip clubs and food joints. Walk along the streets just west of Av. Paulista around the Consolação and Trianon/MASP metro stations to get a feel for the options. It goes on and on for about three square kilometers with most of the options around Rua Augusta and Rua Haddock Lobo. The area comprises about four square city blocks and you can easily walk around it to check out the options. Try Empanadas (Rua Wisard 489) and Bar do Sacha (Rua Original 89). Everything takes place on Rua Treze de Maio, so just get there and walk the long block to choose your eating and drinking establishments for the evening. Try the area around the Largo de Moema for food and drinks. A good choice is the Companhia Cervejaria Imperial (Largo de Moema 76). Walk along the street from Av. Paulista toward downtown a few blocks to get a feel. Don't bring any valuables with you on this journey and don't walk too far away from the crowd. 35

36 Day Two 8:30 a.m. Today starts with some shopping madness in the city's upscale shopping district, known as Jardins. Even if you don't plan to do any shopping, this area is the city's most bustling daytime business district and you'll find many of the city's best restaurants, finest boutiques, and coziest cafés. The people watching along Avenida Paulista 6 is excellent. Take the green line metro to the Consolação station. From this station, you can wonder the streets heading south and west as far as Al. Lorena to the west and as far as the MASP metro station to the south. Day 2 Jardins Walking Tour A possible trajectory for your walking tour of the Jardins area is to head straight down Rua Haddock Lobo from the metro station (going west or downhill). Turn left on Al. Lorena until Rua Augusta where you turn left again and head back up the hill to Av. Paulista. From there, you can walk south to the MASP station or cross back down and along some of the other streets. 10:30 a.m. Duck into the MASP Museum of Art São Paulo to see South America's most important art museum. You'll find works by Renoir, Van Gogh, Monet, and many other European greats, plus many important Brazilian artists. There are several floors of exhibits and the great works are in the basement. 1:00 p.m. You have a huge selection of lunch options within easy access of the MASP building. A couple of possibilities include Koi (Al. Tietê 360) for sushi and Dona Lucinha (Rua Bela Cintra Early Riser? If you're up early and want to get a refreshing start on the day, head over to the Parque Ibirapuera for a walk or jog around the park. There are many paths that take you around the lake and past the Niemeyer architectural complex for the Museum of Modern Art (MAM). Have the taxi let you off at the fountain, where you can begin your walk around the lake and through the park. 36

37 2325) for savory Brazilian food. A good healthy buffet is available at Saude & Sabor (Rua Luis Coelho 214). All of these are a quick, five-minute taxi ride from the MASP. 2:30 p.m. You have two options for the rest of the afternoon. You can wander around the Jardins area some more and sample some of the tasty sweets and coffees that abound in the area. Or look into the many art galleries and home decoration stores. Just continue where you left off before lunch. Another option is a walk around the city's central park, known as Parque Ibirapuera, which is just south 7 of the Jardins area (about 15 minutes by taxi). In the park, you'll get to walk the various footpaths, view the flora and fauna of the area, gaze at two important Brazilian monuments (the Obelisk and the Bandeirantes), plus enter the popular Museum of Modern Art complex, built by Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer 8. 5:00 p.m. Head back to your hotel for a little freshening up before your second night out on the town. You have plenty of time for a sauna or swim at the hotel, but if you are not in the mood for relaxing, then take this opportunity to explore one of the city's interesting neighborhoods. Try the Liberdade area to see the Japanese culture in São Paulo or the Bela Vista area to see the Italian culture. You can also go as far as the Vila Madelena neighborhood (last metro stop on the west end of the green line) to see the city's artistic and bohemian side. Dinner is not until 8 p.m., so you have plenty of time to check out one of these areas. 8:00 p.m. Dinner options are practically infinite in São Paulo, so here are a few suggestions that will get you started. For the city's best sushi, head over to Sushiguen (Av. Brigadeiro Luis Antônio 2367) in the Jardins area. One of my favorite Italian restaurants in the city is Rosamarino (Rua Henrique Monteiro 44) in the Pinheiros neighborhood. One of the best seafood options is Salmon & Co. (Al. Jaú 1199) in the Jardins area and you'll get a great pizza at Margherita (Al Tietê 255) in Jardins. For more food and nightlife choices, see the table on page

38 Foot Notes Footnotes [1] São Paulo's metro system is fast, safe and clean. It takes you in the four directions, with the center point hitting at Praça da Sé downtown. The blue metro line goes north and south. The red line goes east and west. The green line goes west down Avenida Paulista from the Paraíso station. [2] A pastel is a kind of fried spring roll, introduced into Brazil by the Chinese. This popular fried pastry has been adapted to the local culture and ingredients and can now be found just about anywhere in Brazil. These little pockets are generally stuffed with cheese, ground beef and chicken. [3] The Patio do Colégio is the exact place where the city of São Paulo was originally founded and built. One of the original walls of the first Jesuit mission still stands in the museum. [4] Open business hours, from 9a.m. to 5p.m. weekdays. [5] The self-service buffet in Brazil is a national passion. Generally, you load up your plate from the abundant options in the buffet and then weigh your food and pay according to the weight. Economical buffets offer a single price option for one pass at the buffet. [6] Avenida Paulista at the top of Jardins is the city's financial district and is full of activity during business hours (and up until happy hour) on weekdays. The best money changers, banks, and business centers are here. [7] It's possible to walk to the park from the Jardins area. Just take Av. Brigadeiro Luis Antônio to the south for about ten long blocks. It's about a 45- minute walk from the top at Av. Paulista all the way to the park. [8] Oscar Niemeyer was born in Rio de Janeiro in 1907 and attended the Escola Nacional de Belas Artes. In 1939 he designed the Brazil pavilion for the New York World s Fair. His friendship with Joscelino Kubitschek-- first as mayor of Belo Horizonte and later as president of Brazil--led to involvement in two of Kubitschek s visionary projects: the Pampulha Architectural Complex in Belo Horizonte and later the city of Brasilia. A member of Brazil s communist party, Niemeyer s projects were often disrupted and frustrated when Brazil s military dictatorship government took over in 1964 and the architect eventually left the country to setup office in Paris. Among his other professional accomplishments include work on the rebuilding of Berlin in 1954 and contributions to the Louvre in Paris. 38

39 Best of Best of São Paulo Best Pizza São Paulo is famous for its many pizzerias and it's said that seven pizzas are consumed every minute in this vast city. You have some excellent options in the Bela Vista area and in the Jardins neighborhood too. One of the best is Margherita (Al Tietê 255) in Jardins. Best Pub The city's most traditional pub is located in the old downtown area, called Bar Brahma (Av. São João 677). Head over for happy hour and stay as long as you like. Best Beer Selection If you want variety in your beer selection, try Frangó (Largo da Matriz 168) in the Zona Norte area. You can take the metro to the last northern stop on the blue line (Tucuruvi station) and take a cab from there. Remember, the last metro is at midnight. Best Brazilian Barbecues The city's most upscale and impressive barbecue options is the famous Figueira Rubaiyat (Rua Haddock Lobo 1738) in the Jardins area. Best Bakery You'll find some great breads and sweets at St. Etienne (Al. Joaquim Eugênio De Lima 1417) in the south end of the Jardins area. They have plenty of outdoor seating. Best Shopping Mall One of the biggest shopping malls in the Americas is in the Guarulhos area on the way to the airport. It's called Shopping America and you can spend hours there looking around. The most quaint and charming mall is Higienópolis Shopping in the Higienópolis neighborhood near downtown. Best Coffee Shop Suplicy (Al. Lorena 1430) in the Jardins area offers the best coffee drinks and a super-clean and modern atmosphere. A cozy-style café is Santo Grão (Rua Oscar Freire 413), also in the Jardins area. 39

40 Best View of the City The best view of the city is from the top of the Edificio Itália near Praça da epública downtown. For best results, go at night and have a drink in the bar and look out on the city lights. Drink minimum is R$25 per person. Best Discount Shopping The Brás neighborhood (Brás metro station on the red line) is the city's official garment district and you'll find the best prices on clothing, luggage, and all kinds of other things. Best Things to Buy You can find all kinds of great buys in São Paulo and some of the best items are clothing (Brás neighborhood) and shoes (Brás and all around the city). Got More Bests? Do you have additions for this list of the city's "best of" options? Send them my way and I may add them to the next edition. I look forward to hearing what you think is best about São Paulo. 40

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