4 The Harborside Sales Counter Bardolino The fishing village and its sister city 16

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1 Ill Places 1 Cantina Zcni Bardolino Learning and tasting in the museum of iwine [ 10 2 La Conchiglia Bardolino A slue ofheaven thanks to Pino 12 3 Fcsta dell'uva c del Vino Bardolino Afestival of wine tasting 14 4 The Harborside Sales Counter Bardolino The fishing village and its sister city 16 5 San Zeno Bardolino The church in the courtyard 18 6 Hie Centomiglia Bogliaco The legendary regatta 20 7 Hie Aril Cassone di Malcesinc One of the shortest rivers in the world 22 8 Museo dcll'olio d'oliva Cisano di Bardolino A lesson in "liquidgold" 24 9 Villa dei Cedri Cola di Lazisc The spa in the park The German War Cemetery Costermano A seemingly endless graveyard The Studio of Pino Castagna Costermano Huge sculptures you just can't miss Villa Romana Desenzano del Garda Afloorfull of fishing cherubs Baia dellc Sirene Garda A picture-postcard beach Benacus, or Lake Garda Garda How Garda got its name The Friday Mercato Garda From underwear to grilled chicken Palazzo del Capitano Garda A vestige of the town's historic past Punta San Vigilio Garda Refreshments at the prettiest spot on the lake \ Rocca di Garda ] Garda A hike with spectacular views \ 44

2 1 9 The Heller Garden Gardonc Riviera A poetic interplay ofplants and sculpture Torre San Marco Gardone Riviera A tower above the rest Villa Alba Gardonc Riviera A Greek-inspired mansion Vittorialc degli Italiani Gardone Riviera The shrine of Italian victories (and d'annunzio) Balls in the Walls Gargnano Recalling the high price of freedom Cloister of St. Francis Gargnano Columns that tell a tale Limonaia Malora Gargnano Remembering the way things used to be LaTortuga Gargnano A highly acclaimed family-run restaurant Villa Feltrinelli Gargnano A grand hotel in a family of entrepreneurs summer home The Lemons of Limone Limonc sul Garda Nomen est omen Pietra di Castelletto Magugnano di Brenzone Mysterious messages from the Bronze Age Funivia Monte Baldo Malccsine A panoramic ride up to great heights _ Goethe's Bust Malcesine An homage to Germany's poet prince Palazzo dei Capitani Malcesine A lakeside sanctuary The Scaligcrian Fort Malcesine Extreme sports in an extremely beautiful setting The Mincio Peschiera del Garda 1he loveliest way out of Lake Garda Porta Verona Peschiera del Garda Instillingfear in the hearts of the enemy Riva Boats Peschiera del Garda An up-close look at luxury Santuario del Frassino Peschiera del Garda The miraculous help of a small statuette Gardcsana Occidcntalc Riva del Garda A road worth taking \ 84

3 3 9 Santa Maria Inviolata Riva del Garda A devotional image in the Baroque church Torre Apponale Riva del Garda The angelic weathervane symbolizing the city Gasparo da Said Said A famous violin maker on the "waterfrontpromenade Republic of Said Said Mussolini's government in exile Isola del Garda San Felice del Benaco A dream in the middle of the lake Fonte Boiola Sirmione Soaking your way to wellness Gelateria Da Gino Sirmione Where the locals go for tradition and quality Grotte di Catullo Sirmione Ruins of an ancient Roman villa Rocca Scaligera Sirmione A bird's-eye view from the battlements Shaka Surf Center Torbole Putting the wind in your sails Calderini Memorial Torri del Benaco Homage to a son of the city The Scaligeri Castle Torri del Benaco Picturesque scenery with a limonaia Hie Tower of Berengar 11 Torri del Benaco Sanctuary of the first king of Italy Car Ferries Toscolano-Maderno A crossingfrom Torn del Benaco Museo della Carta Toscolano-Maderno A walk through the history of paper-making Nodi d'amore Valeggio sul Mincio A pasta specialty that celebrates a legend Parco Giardino Sigurta Valeggio sul Mincio Exploring the park and gardens by golfcart \ _ Antica Bottega del Vino Verona A wine selection that's tough to beat Arche Scaligere Verona A tomb under the watchful eye of a dog Arco dei Gavi Verona Thefate of the ancient triumphal arch 124

4 5 9 Arco della Costa Verona The -weather forecast, according to a -whalebone Hie Arena I Verona Opera beneath the moonlight The Baptistery Verona San Giovanni in Fonte and its artistic treasure Casa di Romeo Verona Thefabled residence of the Montague Family Case Mazzanti Verorfa Self-promotingfrescoes with a moral Castel San Pietro Verona A breathtaking view over Verona Castelvecchio Verona Celebrating the architecture of Carlo Scarpa Choir Stalls I Verona Optical illusions in Santa Maria in Organo The Christmas Market Verona The tradition of Santa Lucia Colonna di San Marco Verona Catching up with friends and La Serenissima Corte Sgarzarie Verona Outdoor dining at the old cloth guildhall Dante Alighieri Verona The Italian poet on the Piazza del Signori _ Denunciation Mailboxes Verona Telling secrets in the Piazza dei Signori Giardino Giusti Verona A garden paradise with a menacing mask The Ginkgo Trees Verona Fine specimens on the Piazza Indipendenza Girolamo Fracastoro Verona Quite an auspicious statue The Holy Water Fonts Verona Sights to behold in the church ofsant'anastasia Istituto Don Calabria Verona Headquarters of the worldwide religious order The Juliet Statue Verona A stand-in for the star-crossed lover Juliet's Tomb Verona Recreating a memorable Hollywood moment 164

5 7 9 Lion Figures Verona How the Porta dei Leant got its name Liston 12 Verona The place to be seen on the Piazza Bra _ Lo Spino del Filo Spinato Verona The sculpture on the Piazza Isolo Madonna and Child Verona A devotional image on the Via Sottoriva Madonna Verona Verona The quirky symbol of the city Michele Sanmicheli Verona The tomb of the celebrated Renaissance architect Mille Miglia Verona A sight to behold, notjustfor racing fans Museo Maffeiano Verona One of thefirst public museums in Europe Palazzo Pompei Verona Bitten by the natural history bug Pandoro Verona The birthplace of the traditional Italian dessert Pasticceria De Rossi ] Verona Tasty tarts and the kisses of Romeo andjuliet Pescheria Verona The most historic supermarket in the city Piazza delle Erbe Verona Stones drowning in color The Picture Gallery Verona The wooden ceiling in San Fermo Maggiore The Pigna Verona Directional help for a complicated street plan Ponte Pietra Verona The Roman bridge over the Adige Porta Borsari Verona Magnificent sceneryfrom the time of the Ramans Porta dei Bombardicri Verona The military gateway on the Palazzo del Capitano Porta Nuova & Porta Palio Verona An impressivefirst impression of the city Portoni della Bra Verona On the trail of Romeo andjuliet 204

6 99 Portrait of a Child with a Drawing Verona The picture within a picture Putti Friezes Verona Historic advertising on the city's buildings A Saintly Stone Verona The legend of San Zeno in Oratorio Santa Rita da Cascia Verona A saint for all seasons Scaligeri Fortifications Verona A stroll through the hills j The Statue of San Zeno Verona The laughing bishop Teatro Romano Verona An outdoor stage with wide views over the city Torre del Gardello Verona The first public clock in Verona Torre dei Lamberti Verona The viewfrom the top Trattoria A1 Pompiere Verona Veronese specialties in the heart of the city Valerio Catullo Airport Villafranca di Verona A walk over the tarmac Verona Bike Verona Exploring the city on two wheels Via Seghe San Tomaso Verona Street names reminiscent of the old cityscape 230