Join writer and Editor Jeremy Lewis aboard the Variety Voyager as we celebrate the life of Patrick Leigh Fermor, one of our greatest travel writers,

Transcription

1 S ail i ng to M a n i a nd Beyo nd Join writer and Editor Jeremy Lewis aboard the Variety Voyager as we celebrate the life of Patrick Leigh Fermor, one of our greatest travel writers, in his beloved Greece 14th to 23rd April 2015 in association with the Oldie Magazine

2 Blue Mosque, Istanbul Patrick Leigh Fermor, who died in 2011 at the age of 96, is probably best known to the world at large for dreaming up and then perpetrating one of the most dashing and unconventional adventures of the Second World War: the kidnapping in Crete of a German General, who was bundled across the mountainous spine of the island before being spirited away to Cairo and captivity. Rather improbably, Dirk Bogarde starred as Leigh Fermor in the film of the book, Ill Met by Moonlight. As proud as he was of his exploits as a guerrilla fighter in Crete, Leigh Fermor was also the finest travel writer of the twentieth century, and one of the great masters of English prose. A Time of Gifts, Between the Woods and the Water and the posthumously published The Broken Road, the trilogy in which he described how, as an eighteen-year-old, he walked across Europe from Rotterdam to Istanbul, combined commercial success with literary acclaim; but he also wrote two classic books about Greece, the country he loved above all others and where he lived for much of his life. Roumeli was devoted to Greece north of the Gulf of Corinth, Mani to the bleak but beautiful country at the southernmost tip of the central prong of the Peloponnese. Both books are vivid, carefully crafted evocations of Greek life and culture, combining travel writing with brilliant insights into the history, art, culture, religion and people of his adopted country not forgetting the food and drink, both of which loomed large in his travels. There are few places in Greece that Leigh Fermor failed to visit or write about, but our voyage aboard the Variety Voyager will concentrate on two parts of the country with which he is particularly associated: the Mani, where we plan to visit the magical house he built near Kardamyli; and Crete, the scene of his wartime adventures. Leigh Fermor wrote with particular insight about the Byzantine element in Greek culture, and the cruise will end in Istanbul which, as Constantinople, was the epicentre of Greek life and culture for over a thousand years, and the city in which Leigh Fermor concluded his pre-war Great Trudge across Europe. For this unique voyage we have worked closely with Jeremy Lewis who will accompany the cruise and writes: I got to know Patrick Leigh Fermor after he had chosen my first book of memoirs, Playing for Time, as his book of the year in one of the Sunday papers, and he gave me invaluable help with my biography of his friend Cyril Connolly. I wish I d seen more of him, since he is one of my literary heroes: we met from time to time in London, and I hugely enjoyed a long and very bibulous lunch with him and his wife Joan in their house in Kardamyli. GREECE Gythion Kardamyli Vatheia AEGEAN SEA Athens Rethmynon CRETE Canakkale Troy Patmos Guest Speaker TURKEY Istanbul Jeremy Lewis worked in publishing for twenty-plus years before becoming a freelance writer in He has published three volumes of memoirs, and biographies of Cyril Connolly, Tobias Smollett and Allen Lane. Shades of Greene, an account of Graham Greene s siblings and cousins, was published by Jonathan Cape in 2010; he is currently writing a biography of David Astor, the editor-cum-proprietor of the Observer, also for Cape. He has been the commissioning editor of the Oldie since 1997.

3 Ancient pithoi Knossos palace Iraklion Vatheia Monastery, Patmos The Itinerary Day 1 London to Athens, Greece. Fly by scheduled flight. On arrival transfer to the Variety Voyager in Piraeus and embark. Sail this evening. Day 2 Gythion. During the night we sail along the eastern shores of the Peloponnese, reaching Gythion in the morning. Our first call on the Mani Peninsula is to its north east corner. Mentioned often and favourably by Patrick Leigh Fermor, the crowded houses on their climbing terraces present a pretty picture in the glow of the morning sun. The history of the place goes back to the classical period, when it was the main port of Sparta. During our morning ashore we will explore the town much as Patrick Leigh Fermor did, including the remains of a Greek theatre and a Roman temple. Keep an eye out for the romantic island of Marathonisi Gythion harbour where, as Leigh Fermor discovered on the very last page of Mani, Paris and Helen spent their first night together after he had stolen her away from the King of Sparta. Alternatively there will be the option of a visit to the extraordinary site of Mystras, the last Byzantine stronghold. During lunch onboard we sail south along the Mani s eastern shore, looking out for the famous towers, Mani s most distinctive feature. At the southern tip of the peninsula we will sail close to the cave which was said to mark the entrance to Hades, into which the intrepid Leigh Fermor swam. Moor overnight in Gerolimin. Day 3 Vatheia & Kardamyli. Close to the southern tip of Mani, Vatheia is an astonishing village of crumbling tower houses standing atop a barren hill overlooking the sea. The towers were home to feuding clans of brave Maniots who refused to succumb to Ottoman rule and they built the fortressed tower houses to defend themselves against attacks from marauding invaders, pirates and their own neighbours. After exploring the village and visiting the fascinating Diros Cave we will return to the Variety Voyager for a leisurely lunch as we sail north to Kardamyli, an enchanting village where Patrick Leigh Fermor and his wife Joan built a magical house by the sea, now owned by the Benaki Museum in Athens, who hope to restore the house for use as a writer s retreat. We set sail late this afternoon for Crete where Leigh Fermor spent three years as a wartime guerrilla fighter, and remained particularly devoted to the island. Day 4 Rethmynon, Crete. After breakfast arrive in Rethmynon for a morning visit of the Fortezza Castle, built by the Venetians for protection, followed by a walking tour of the town. After lunch explore the Rethmynon Military Museum of War which houses mementoes of Patrick Leigh Fermor s most famous exploit, the kidnapping of General Kreipe* and then enjoy a scenic drive to Gaios Kambos on the western edge of the Psiloritis Mountains which is a renowned area for native Cretan plants - and early spring is the perfect time to see them. Our vessel will remain in the port until midnight, providing an opportunity for an after-dinner stroll in the town. * Next year John Murray will publish, for the first time in book form, Abducting the General, Patrick Leigh Fermor s own account of the kidnapping of General Kreipe in April 1944, and we plan to have copies on board. Day 5 Iraklion, Crete. During the night sail along the north coast of Crete to Iraklion. From our berth it is a short distance to the Palace of Knossos, legendary home of the Minotaur. Wander round the site impressively excavated by Sir Arthur Evans, examining some of the 1300 rooms adorned with lively frescoes where King Minos held court. Afternoon at leisure to explore independently before we set sail in the late afternoon and head for the Dodecanese. Day 6 Patmos, Greece. Patmos has been called the Jerusalem of the Aegean and its religious significance dates from the arrival of St John on

4 Patmos Kardamyli Troy, Turkey the island in 95 AD. Visit the small cave where St John received his revelation, the Medieval village of Chora and the Monastery of St John the Theologian a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and an exceptional example of a Greek Orthodox pilgrimage centre. Sail during lunch past the island of Fourmoi and Samos, heading north along the Anatolian coastline. Day 7 Troy, Turkey. Today we call at Canakkale, our gateway for Troy, where ongoing archaeological excavations have revealed nine different layers of cities superimposed in rings on a massive mound rising above the Plain of Ilium. It was to one of these cities, legend has it, that the Greeks fought the Trojans as recounted by Homer in the Iliad: one of these layers was found to have burnt objects in it, suggesting that the city was violently ransacked at some stage. The tour follows the excavations made by Heinrich Schliemann, the archaeologist who discovered Troy and Priam s Treasure, the jewels that, Schliemann claimed, were worn by Helen of Troy. Today, Troy sits in a remote, idyllic, rural landscape, with the stone city dominating the plain for miles around, as if three millennia have passed in the blink of an eye. We will walk along the walls that held Helen of Troy and look down at the plain where Achilles dragged the dead body of Hector. Day 8 Istanbul. Be up on deck before breakfast as we enter the Bosphorus, a marvellous sight as Istanbul opens in all its magnificence. Disembark after breakfast and transfer to your hotel for a two- night stay. In this bustling city, straddling Europe and Asia, you will find some of the greatest buildings and works of art in the world. This morning s guided excursion includes visits to the Byzantine six-century cathedral of Hagia Sophia and the Sultan Ahmet Camii (Blue Mosque). The afternoon offers the chance for a cruise on the Bosphorus or a visit to the underground world of the Basilica Cistern. Day 9 Istanbul. This morning your sightseeing continues with a visit to the Topkapi Palace residence of the early sultans and the Kahrie Djami, a church-cum-mosque out by the Theodosian Walls. Here we will see some of the finest of all Byzantine mosaics and wall paintings, referred to in glowing terms in Patrick Leigh Fermor s Mani. Enjoy an afternoon at leisure before meeting this evening for our farewell dinner. Day 10 Istanbul to London. Return to London by scheduled flight. Prices per person Based on double occupancy Cat C B A P Owner s Suite C B Deck Marina Marina/Riviera Riviera Horizons Horizons Marina for sole use Marina/Riviera for sole use Prices Price Includes: Economy class scheduled air travel, seven nights aboard the Variety Voyager on a full board basis with house wine with lunch and dinner onboard, two nights hotel accommodation in Istanbul on breakfast only basis, farewell dinner in Istanbul, shore excursions, services of a cruise director and tour manager, guest speaker, transfers, port taxes, airport taxes.. Not Included: Travel insurance, visa. NB. Ports and itinerary subject to change.

5 Variety Voyager The Variety Voyager is a newly built, private yacht which accommodates up to 72 passengers in 36 cabins. Built under the latest International SOLAS regulations and classified by the American Bureau of Shipping, the Variety Voyager guarantees guests safety with considerable comfort and elegance. If you find large resort-style vessels accommodating many thousands of passengers attractive then of course this isn t the vessel for you. However, if you prefer a more peaceful life at sea and an atmosphere more akin to a private yacht then you need look no further. Your Cabin/Suite The 68 metre Variety Voyager accommodates up to 72 guests in 36 cabins, 28 of the cabins are located on the Marina and Riviera decks and the eight staterooms are located on the Horizons deck. Cabins and staterooms are spacious and sizes range from 16m 2 to 28m 2. Cabins on the Marina deck feature two oversized portholes and cabins on the Riviera and Horizons decks feature large windows. All cabins have en-suite marble bathrooms, individually controlled air conditioning, a mini fridge, safety deposit box, flat screen television and DVD player. Bathrobes and toiletries are also provided. Your Space Public areas are spacious and finely decorated. The Main lounge is located on the Riviera deck, adjacent to the reception area and is tastefully designed and furnished. It offers ample comfortable seating and is fully equipped with an AV system for onboard lectures and presentations. On the Marina deck is the internet area and a small library offering a variety of books and magazines as well as computer stations for internet access. The contemporary Dining room seats all passengers in one sitting and has floor to ceiling windows. It extends to the adjacent open deck where meals can be taken al fresco. The Sun deck is a large area of outdoor space with Balinese beds and sun loungers. Here you will also find the Horizon Bar & Lounge, an open-air area on the Upper deck offering stylish shaded seating and music in the evening. There is a spa and fitness suite located on the Marina deck offering massages, sauna and fitness equipment. The Balinese Spa Supervisor also provides hair, face and nail treatments. Your Dining The glass enclosed dining room seats 75 passengers and allows for spectacular views around you, while dining in an elegant environment. It extends to the adjacent open deck, also seating 50 passengers and allowing for breakfast, lunch or dinner to be taken al fresco. Food is served at the table or a hot and cold buffet is offered which also includes an a la minute cooking section. Owner s Suite

6 Twin Cabin Category P Restaurant Twin Cabin Category B DECK PLAN Sun Deck Dining Sun Deck Bar Spa Life Onboard Part of the joy of a cruise aboard the Variety Voyager is its capability to dock in small ports or drop anchor in any suitable spot, unlike the large ships which can only dock in the larger ports with all the supporting infrastructure necessary to service the vessels. With a maximum of only 72 guests, our trips ashore will be a pleasure as we explore with local guides. Onboard the atmosphere is informal with ample public space to relax with a book or to join new found friends to discuss the day s events. Throughout the vessel you will find unobstructed views and the professional crew of 28 will ensure impeccable service. Deck Plan Lounge 2 Chester Close, Belgravia, London, SW1X 7BE +44 (0) info@noble-caledonia.co.uk All special offers are subject to availability. Our current booking conditions apply to all reservations and are available on request. Cover image: Mani peninsula. NC _S