THE VILLAGE SQUARE: KOUKLIA

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1 VILLAGES & WINERIES There are so many pretty villages to explore and wineries to sample especially if you head off towards Polis and Latchi and the Troodos Foothills. Here are just a few ideas. Take a look on-line for the local Wineries and Wine routes. The nearest and easiest to get to is in Kathikas on the road past Tsada to Polis. THE VILLAGE SQUARE: KOUKLIA A place that had gone under our radar is the village of Kouklia (head towards the airport and follow the signs). We enjoy going to Mandria but just about 4 kms further along the B6 is this delightful village. In summer (June-September) the centre is pedestrian free and there are several restaurants all facing into the small square. For culture / history lovers Kouklia is famous for its archaeological site the Sanctuary of Aphrodite but if you are also in quaint but lively villages Kouklia has other attractions Thursday night is Cypriot night with music and dancing in the square. Saturdays it s live 60's, 70's and 80's music so there is plenty of atmosphere and lots of choice of places to eat and drink. EFRAIM TAVERN on the left of the square hosts both of the events OMODOS A charming and easy drive away Omodos is one of the most beautiful villages in Cyprus. it nestles in the southern foothills of the Troodos Mountains. At an altitude of 900 meters, Omodos is in the centre of the famous wine making region of the country and is only a 40 minute drive from Paphos. The picturesque village is built around the Monastery of the Holy Cross which, according to records, the village dates back to the arrival of Saint Helena in Cyprus (A.D.337). The Monastery is home to a piece of the Holy Rope with which Christ s hands were tied to the Cross. In the centre of the Monastery an imposing Church stands having a gilded icon stand inside, dating back to Within the Church valuable relics are kept such as fragments of saintly bones and the skull of Saint Philip. In front of the Monastery there is a colourful, cobblestoned square covering an area of 3000m², surrounded by coffee houses, tavernas and shops. The square is the only one of its kind in Cyprus. The medieval Linos (wine-press) is one of the oldest in Cyprus and a representative example of traditional craftsmanship and wine making techniques. We were particularly attracted by the village s narrow alleys and wood crafted verandas overlooking the streets which are filled with coloured flowerpots in every corner and yard. There are many gift shops selling sweets, nuts, wine, olive oil and other local products. Refurbished traditional homes and Guest houses, offer a unique living experience of village life.

2 HEAVEN ON EARTH HERB GARDEN, PANO AKOURDAELIA A charming drive or a side trip on the way to Polis, Heaven on Earth Herbals is a herbal health company, which includes training, plant products, herbal gardening and a healthy coffee and tea shop located in this traditional Cypriot village, Pano Akourdaelia in Paphos. The company was established to teach the benefits of herbs and plants for one s health, activities where people can come and learn about Cyprus herbs and how they can affect your health. They only produce sustainable herbs of the highest quality for health. They collect; harvest and hand pick the plants for ingredients in health formulas, and preserves old Cypriot tradition. You can relax in the beautiful herb garden, enjoy a cup of herbal tea or home-made lemonade and wheat-free, gluten-free cakes, and visit health pharmacy and learn about the healing effects on health of herbs and essential oils. (See the opening hours and map below) First Sunday of each month, from 10:00 to 14:00, they even have a farmers market with only ingredients grown on a small scale using natural resources, and that have not travelled halfway around the world. The company was started by Caroline Evans ND MH, herbalist, naturopath and consultant in nutrition, to produce potent herbs to help their patients achieve a healthier state of awareness, both physically and mentally. Caroline s work with clients has shown her how unique we are and how important it is to work with people individually to achieve optimal health. Hours of Operation: Summer (April to November) open daily 11:00 to 17:00 Winter (December to March) is open Wednesday to Sunday 11:00 to 16:00 Getting there: Chryseleousa Herb Garden, Pano Akourdhalia, Paphos. Follow Poils Rd to Stombi, turn left to Kathikas and then right to Pano Akourdaelia. All clearly signposted from the road. Two wineries are close by and you can also visit Aphrodite Brewery on the way home (on the main road outside Tsada) PISSOURI BEACH Between Limassol and Paphos the idyllic village of Pissouri has one of the most terrific beaches in the area. Extremely popular with locals who flock to the excellent beach side tavernas, the lovely pebble and sand beach has a relaxed yet upmarket atmosphere. Beautiful mountain views on the drive from the old village to the coast resort POLIS & LATCHI Polis which in Greek means town, is one of the most beautiful towns of Cyprus, just a 30 minutes drive from Paphos. It is said to be close to where Aphrodite, goddess of love and beauty, used to meet her beloved Adonis.Polis Chrysochous is a short drive/walk to the picturesque fishing port of Latchi reputed for its fish taverns, its sea-sport facilities and boatrides up to the Akamas -a must for all Polis visitors. In the past Latchi served as a small port for shipping carobs. The old stone carob warehouses have been converted into restaurants, fish taverns and shopping places. A short trip to the Baths of Aphrodite makes a pretty drive along the north western tip of the island.

3 AKAMAS PENINSULA This is a protected national park renowned for its vegetation and natural beauty. A popular way to see the area is by hiking on well-marked trails or by jeep safari. Otherwise a four wheel drive is recommended to cope with the tricky terrain. Unfortunately our car is not suitable for this rough terrain. You can however follow directions to Smigies Nature Trail or The White River entrance elsewhere in this leaflet. TROODOS MOUNTAINS The Troodos are a big tourist attraction and every day hundreds of coaches and cars head towards Mount Olympus. It is a long journey from Paphos with hair pin bends, steep drops and scary driving to contend with. Go if you must but if it is your first visit to Cyprus we suggest you stay more local for just as good scenery without the stress of the long drive and busy traffic. For example the road trip to Polis (via Droushia is better than the main road) and the B6 Coast Rd to Pissouri is spectacular and much nearer. Troodos is the biggest mountain range of Cyprus, located in the center of the island. The highest peak is Mount Olympus at 1,952 meters. Troodos mountain range stretches across most of the western side of Cyprus. There are many famous mountain resorts, Byzantine monasteries and churches on mountain peaks, and nestling in its valleys and picturesque mountain villages clinging to terraced hill slopes. There are nine churches and one monastery in Troodos that are counted among UNESCO's World Heritage Sites and several other monasteries, of which the Kykkos monastery is the richest and most famous. The nine Byzantine churches are: Stavros tou Ayiasmati Panayia tou Araka Timiou Stavrou at Pelendri Ayios Nikolaos tis Stegis Panayia Podithou Assinou Ayios loannis Lampadistis Panayia tou Moutoula Archangel Michael at Pedhoulas The area has been known since ancient times for its copper mines, and in the Byzantine period it became a great centre of Byzantine art, as churches and monasteries were built in the mountains, away from the threatened coastline. NEW BOOKLET: NORTH PAFOS AND AKAMAS, A SELF- DRIVE TOUR TO CREATE YOUR OWN ADVENTURE. You should find our new booklet in this manual. It contains lots of ideas on our doorstep to enjoy the real Cyprus taking a trip from the coast to the heart of the island. Catch a glimpse of traditional Cypriot life via 6 village routes and lots of clearly explained sights along the way. It has given us lots of ideas for some interesting days out. CROSSING THE GREEN LINE Nicosia is a long way to drive about 2.5 hours on the motorway and it does feel longer, especially coming back. It is a quiet motorway drive which sounds idyllic but is in fact monotonous. Save for when you have more time as you face a whole day in the car. Moreover our car is not insured for driving into North Cyprus and the Insurance sold on the border is only third party so please DO NOT be tempted to take our car. An alternative way of going to Kyrenia is with an organised trip. Ann and David have written up their adventure in our guest book (2 nd Feb- 14 Mar 2014) booked through Ricky s TravelTel.: , , URL:

4 Eating Out: Some Places to Try There are countless places to eat and drink in Paphos. To get you started here are a few of our tried and tested favourites. GUSTOSO S Opposite KFC on the Tomb of the Kings A fantastic new restaurant opened Summer 2011 by the chef who previously made Tsada Golf Club popular. Go here for an air of sophistication, great service, and a chef who knows how to add those extra touches to make an evening special, all at good prices. Portions are huge so you can share or ask for a take-home box. At weekends or busy times ring for a reservation. Card on notice-board. We don t think you will be disappointed THE FOUNTAIN RESTAURANT AT TSADA Opened two years ago this restaurant has great views from the top of the mountain at Tsada and a roaring log fire in winter. We enjoyed a meal there. I had a most excellent stifado, Dom had chicken kebabs, also delicious. It is new build but in Cypriot style with friendly service from the young owner and team at good prices. Highly recommended. Take the Polis Rd up the hill and turn off after about 3 miles to the right signposted clearly to Tsada. Carry on along the main road, only about 1 mile. Ignore the left turn into the village. Keep on the road for only a few more metres and the Fountain is in your right. MUSE KITCHEN BAR For seasoned Paphos visitors who know their way around the Old Town here is a new place to visit. If you drive 'up the hill' from the Harbour/Kings Avenue Mall towards the old town in the dark you may notice some strange purple lights high above you on the right. It is hard to provide directions but park the car nearby and follow the steps up to the old town and ask for MUSE BAR if you get lost. A stylish cafe atmosphere, good food and huge portions but the chilled out ambiance and the views across the sea make this place well worth a visit. Highly recommended. Restaurants. Hotels and Bars advertise locally in the monthly PAPHOS POST. It is free and available in the main supermarkets

5 Along the Coast There are many walks discovered & enjoyed when visiting Leda Heights ourselves. WALK FROM THE ELYSIUM HOTEL TO VENUS BEACH. Drive along the Tomb of the Kings Rd in the Coral Bay direction. Look out for the MacDonald s & KFC just before the Tomb of the Kings Archaeological site (you can t miss this on the left hand side scrub and vegetation area stretching for about half a mile, but if you go past it you have gone too far). There is a road to the beach just before the KFC on the left, with Martelli s on the corner. You might be able to spot the signpost to the Elysium Hotel. Drive down and park. Walk along the track to the coast path. If you go left it s about 1 mile along the paved path around the headland to Paphos Lighthouse & Harbour. If you go to the right you will go in front of the Elysium Spa Hotel (lovely beach which you can use even though it says its for Hotel Guests only) and onto the Venus Beach Hotel. The walk is flat but on rough track. It follows the rugged coastline and runs in front of the Tomb of the Kings site. The Venus Beach is quite rough and ideal if you like paddling in the waves, although not for serious swimming as you need to watch out for the very strong & dangerous Rip Current. The path continues past the Venus Beach if you want to walk further. Elysium to Venus Beach is about 1km. WALK FROM ELYSIUM TO THE HARBOUR A walk from the Elysium to the Harbour is a 30 minute walk along the coast in front of the Paphos Mosaics site & the Lighthouse. It is an easy walk along the rugged coastline and can be breezy. The Municipal beach is about half- way with a beach café, with sun beds and umbrellas (and free wifi if you can t bear to be parted from your s). OFF THE BEATEN TRACK RICO S BEACH, GERISKIPOU Rumour has it the whole Geriskipou beach area is being upgraded from 2017 onwards but currently if you want something more rustic head to Kato Paphos, turn left at the teejunction with the Olympic Lagoon Hotel and keep driving past the big hotels, the Go Cart Rink and the Sports Stadium. You will come across a sign for Geriskipou Beach. In summer beach cafes give it a laid back caribbean feel. It is a great place to walk as it is long and flat with no frills. THE SHIPWRECK AT SEA CAVES. A new attraction is the most spectacular piece of bad driving you can ever imagine. During the storms at the beginning of January a coastal freighter the Edro III found itself washed up on the rocks at Sea Caves. Luckily the cliffs stopped it going further inland but we don t think the owners of the million pound houses just behind the cliffs will appreciate having their sea view blocked by this rusting tanker. Nonetheless it is an interesting spot for a visit and helpfully the ship beached itself just in front of the Orinos beach bar so you can even have a drink and admire the terrific views in all directions. If you are feeling energetic there are coastal paths to the left and the right and plenty of spots for some serious sunbathing if you don t.sea Caves is not well signposted -but it is to the left on the road from Coral Bay to Agios Geogious. Like us you may have to have a few attempts to get it right but you can see the ship from the main road in places. We suggest you follow the directions to the Coral Beach Hotel and Corellia Beach at Coral Bay (elsewhere in this manual). Take the road past Irish Pub/Coral Beach Hotel/Corellia Beach Hotel and the big swimming pool and follow the road for about 1.5/2miles. The small blue sign on the left to Orinos Beach bar is the best road but there are several other left turns through the banana plantations you can try if you don t mind a little adventure.

6 BONA MARE BEACH BAR You may have already been to Oniros by the Sea (the Shipwreck) for lunch and enjoyed the stunning sea views. Places to eat on the shoreline away from the harbour are few and far between but the Bona Mare Beach Bar near the airport is worth a visit. It is not pretentious but the setting on Temi Beach is gorgeous. Food is snack bar fayre, plentiful and good value and during our visits the staff have been very friendly. It has a beach area in front of the bar with sunbeds and parasols. Open till sunset most days. Directions Take the A6 Motorway to Paphos Airport. Follow Airport signs from the Motorway. When you are on the long Airport Road Bona Mare is signposted on the left about ½ mile before you get to the airport. The sign is a little hard to spot and it looks as though you are going onto an industrial estate. Don t be put off just keep driving until you reach the Bona Mare Car Park. Sample menu (2015) Pork/chicken kebab and chips 7.50 E, pint of Becks 2.00E, large glass of wine 2.50E. BOAT TRIPS FROM LATCHI You will have seen the rave reviews of trips to the Blue Lagoon in our guest book. Here s what to do:- Latchi is about a 45 minute drive from Leda Heights. All the boat trips start at or 1.30 so best idea to is get to Latchi Harbour by 10am (or for lunch) and stroll along the front where all the boats have their sales stand. You will be offered todays best deal so go with which one sounds the best. For example we were offered 15e each on the Blue Dream with 15% of meals at the Latchi Plaza Restaurant on our return. Be prepared to negotiate. The boats are much of a muchness and go to the same place for the same time so go with the best price ST GEORGES LAGOON Mentioned elsewhere is this book but worth another look is St Georges Lagoon, an extensive safe swimming and snorkelling area with beach and facilities. We were at Leda Heights in mid-september and experienced temperatures unusually only reserved for August. It was way too hot to stay on the terrace in the afternoon so we headed off to St Georges Lagoon. Initially we took our fold up sun beds but we discovered a grassy area shaded by palms with plenty of spare sunbeds belonging to the St George Gardens (to the left of the St George Hotel if you are looking out to sea). We took our own towels and no one seemed to mind but obviously it s best to be a little discrete. We went on several days and there were always lots of sunbeds and umbrellas free. There is a snack bar by the lagoon but we took the big cool bag (look in wardrobe in small bedroom by the golf clubs) with our drinks. Park in the St George Hotel Car Park and there is a path down the side of the hotel. However it is a steep climb back so we use the St George hotel lifts. (Enter reception and the lifts are to your right. Take the lift to floor minus -2. You are welcome to use the beach towels in the wardrobe and cushions from the storage box but please wash them and put them back where you found them as a courtesy to the next guests. Thank you. Directions Take the Tomb of the Kings Road towards Coral Bay using the Green or Pink Routes. Landmarks on your left include the King Elvethon, Aliceland and the New British School. You can also see the shipwreck out to sea. Once you have left Paphos there is only one set of traffic lights and this is the St George junction. Turn left and the hotel is ahead of you.

7 Shopping Most tourist shops, kiosks and supermarkets remain open all day. Lidls is open from 7-10pm on weekdays and until 7pm on a Sunday. Some take half days on Saturday and Wednesday NEAREST BAKERY There are many supermarkets and kiosks in Paphos that you will see as you travel around the area. Your nearest one is the Sunfresh - turn right out of Leda Heights and go down the hill. Join the main road going left. Just below this at the turning to the General Hospital is the popular Papantonious bakery SUPERMARKETS Lidl and Carrefours are almost opposite each other down the hill on the Polis Rd. See The Pink Route map for directions. Lidl is the best value for everyday basics but Carrefours has more choice. GARDEN OF EDEN: FRUIT & VEG MARKET We always make the trip to the Garden of Eden/ Russian fruit and veg market to find good value, local produce. It is opened just below Carrefour s on the right hand side opposite Costas Tyres. As well as fruit and veg you will find fresh meat, fish, nuts honey, olives etc all at competitive prices. It doesn't beat Lidl s prices for everyday groceries but for high quality fruit, veg and meat is does. While you are in the area - if you travel down the hill about ½ mile- again on the right is Kolios - you can get your local wine from here so you will be set up for the whole of your stay in just a few short metres. KINGS AVENUE MALL To great excitement on 20th November 2013 the brand spanking new Kings Avenue Mall opened for the first time. At last Paphos has some serious shopping and somewhere to go if you get bored of the sun or to fill the odd rainy day. It is not in the same league as Bluewater, Meadowhall or the Trafford Centre of course but we enjoy pottering around. There is a cinema and various well known chain eateries eg Wagamamas and Costa Coffee. Directions Use either the Yellow Route of the Pink Route. It is on the Tomb of the Kings Rd as you turn off towards the Harbour. Follow the signs for the Harbour and if you stay on the main road you will not miss it. JUMBO MEGA STORE: KINGS MALL, PAPHOS Kings Avenue Shopping Mall is mentioned elsewhere in this Manual and is worth a visit to escape from the summer heat or to pass the time on a dull, rainy day. It is a mad and fascinating place. We find it impossible to leave without having bought something. PHARMACY The nearest one is down the hill on the right more or less opposite the Grain Silos. FUEL STATIONS You will pass Fuel stations on the dual carriageway to the Harbour and on the Polis Rd. They are attended during normal hours. Most Fuel Stations are closed on Sundays although there may be an automated pump available for card sales. BANKS The nearest banks are on the Polis Rd just down from Carrefours (Alpha Bank). The Bank of Cyprus and Hellenic Bank are also on the Polis Rd (on the right) and at the Harbour. The best Money Exchanges can be found at the Harbour

8 IN AND AROUND THE OLD TOWN PAPHOS OLD TOWN: GUIDED WALK AROUND KTIMA The starting point is the CTO Information Office at 8, Agora Street. For more information call: The walk takes place throughout the year on Thursdays and it lasts approximately two and a half hours with a twenty minute break. Some of the main features of the walk include walks around Paphos town centre (Ktima) and the study of the development of the city centre from the late Byzantine era to modern times. Visitors explore various historical monuments of different periods like Medieval, Ottoman, British and modern. THE HAMAN CAFÉ, KITMA- THE OLD TOWN OF PAPHOS We have been slow to recommend a visit to Kitma the Old Town of Paphos mainly due to its confusing one way system, lack of road signs and very busy traffic. However one new café bar opened in March 2013 that makes finding your way to the old market area worthwhile. The Haman Café bar has opened at the recently refurbished and renovated building which used to house the Turkish baths (Haman) and the setting is a very pleasant spot to grab a coffee, snack, beer or a glass of wine. It is easier to direct you coming up the hill from the Harbour so here goes. Leave the harbour area and go over the lights at the Begonia Garden Centre/ Kings Avenue Mall. Pass Suntower DIY on your right. Keep going up the hill and straight on at the next set of lights. The road then goes more steeply up hill. You should then spot the signs for the Old Municipal Market signposted to the left. (Try not to miss it other wise you will get caught in the one way system which makes turning round difficult.). Follow the road to the left and pass M&S. You will come to a scenic area where there is a cliff top view across the new town to the sea. On your right are a number of cafes where you can stop to take in the view. Haman is actually tucked under the cliff by the elevator. CITY OF CULTURE: RENOVATIONS AND RECONSTRUCTION OF THE OLD TOWN 2016 was the year of major reconstructions in Paphos in preparation for the 2017 when it takes over as European City of Culture. Quite what the outcome will be is unclear (December 2016) but Kennedy Square in the centre and the traffic routes through it will have significantly changed. We will update when details are clearer. Search Papfos2017 or for more information. VIEW FROM THE OLD TOWN TO KATO PAPHOS Above the Hannan on the Old Town promontory you get a fantastic view of Kato Paphos. The old market and several bars and cafes occupy the area. MUSE CAFÉ BAR This café with great food, stylish atmosphere and one of the best views is near to the Museum just behind Kennedy Square. It is best to locate on maps.me ** or ask for directions as it is not easy to spot from the main road. ** MAPS.ME can be downloaded onto Android or ios free of charge and is a GPS system (i.e. doesn t need internet to access)

9 ANY OTHER BUSINESS? Here are a couple of ideas not mentioned elsewhere. We will add to it as we discover new places. APHRODITES ROCK BREWERY We encourage you to make a visit and support to this Brewery which opened in autumn 2013 after a protracted fight by a determined Yorkshire family against all the bureaucracy and obstacles Cyprus and the KEO brewery in particular could throw at them. A triumph for the underdog if ever there was one. The shop is open year round and the bar in the warmer months. To reach our brewery drive north out of Paphos on the Polis-Mesogi Road, leaving the Tsada turn off on your right, (the road will now start to curve to the right and descend) and keep going for another kilometre. You will find us on the right set back about 100m off the road. From their website Aphrodite s Rock Brewing Company is a small craft brewery nestled amongst the beautiful hills of Tsada on the west coast of Cyprus. Cyprus is a deeply historic island where modern travellers can retrace the footsteps of figures as diverse and interesting as Saint Paul, Alexander the Great and even Leonardo da Vinci. Cyprus is a place of great historical importance in brewing. Less than 10km from our brewery are the 3,500 year old bronze-age remains of an ancient traditional brewery which would have been tended by the wives of the Cypriot nomadic hunter-gatherers of the time. We now continue that same noble tradition here in Cyprus and are committed to brewing our handcrafted beers in small personally-tended batches using mineral-rich spring water from our own well. We deliver these to you fresh and in the peak of condition for an uncompromising taste experience. We hope you enjoy drinking these beers as much as we enjoy brewing them for you TALA AMPHITHEATRE If you're looking for a truly unique venue to while away a warm summer's night, look no further than Tala Amphitheatre. It is about a 10 mins drive away. Head to Tala (easy to find on the map) & then ask for directions as it is a little hidden. It is set high up above Paphos looking towards the sea with terrific sunset views. The brand new (2011) amphitheatre is the setting for musical evenings, rock concerts and plays. We went to the Status Quo Tribute Night which was great fun and got everyone up and boogie-ing whilst Rocking All Over the World! As it's an outdoor venue, events in Paphos take place here in the warmer months usually starting from June through to end October. Previous Tribute Acts have included tribute acts for Fleetwood Mac, Il Divo, Abba, Status Quo, Freddie Mercury, Rod Stewart, the Bee Gees and Simon & Garfunkel. Google Tala Amphitheatre for up to date listings. Take a cushion for bottom and back as the seats are concrete. Also take something warm. Even on a hot day it can be breezy on the top of the hill. Drinks are not allowed but no one checked our bags so just be discrete. There is a bar with toilet facilities. DISCLAIMER: ALL DIRECTIONS, PRICES, SUGGESTIONS WERE CORRECT AT THE TIME OF WRITING. TAKE MAPS & WHERE POSSIBLE DOUBLE CHECK OPENING TIMES BEFORE TRAVEL Julie Sanders January 2017

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