Iran: The Majesty of Persia

Transcription

1 Iran: The Majesty of Persia 24 October 15 November 2009 Whether hewn out of the rock walls of mountains, or constructed with mud-brick, stone or stucco, kings from across the ages have left their trace in the ancient land of Iran. Elamites, Achaemenians, Parthians, Sassanians, Seljuks and Safavids have all bequeathed us with tangible reminders of their culture and society. From the Mesopotamian lowlands to the Iranian Plateau, this tour will explore these sites and endeavour to show how they link together as this impressive and colourful history is bought to life.

2 OVERVIEW OF THE ITINERARY Commencing in Tehran this 23-day tour travels along the spectacular Albruz Mountains to Zanjan before heading to the Kurdish city of Takab, the roof of Iran, in the Zagros Mountains. Everywhere we go, whether it is Hamadan or the ancient cities of Kermanshah and Susa, the archaeology will be sure to amaze. Travelling south to the Mesopotamian plain we visit Ahwaz, Shiraz and the magnificent site of Persepolis. From Shiraz we travel to the desert city of Yazd where the Zoroastrian faith is practised, and finally to the Islamic jewel of Isfahan. Along the way we make sure this long and important history will be thoroughly explained in a meaningful and relaxed manner with plenty of time for selfexploration at archaeological sites and in local towns and cities. TOUR HIGHLIGHTS Walk in the footsteps of Xerxes, Alexander the Great and Zoroaster Explore Isfahan, the exquisite jewel of Iran s Islamic art Stand on the burning Mesopotamian plain beneath a ziggurat Discover the remote Throne of Solomon, once one of Iran s most holy sites Hold your own royal audience at evocative Persepolis YOUR TOUR LEADER Ben Churcher first visited the Near East in 1983 when he participated with the University of Sydney s archaeological excavations at Pella in Jordan. Since then he has travelled to the region almost every year. These many trips were either to carry on the work at Pella, that continues to this day, or to explore the highways and byways of the region. Ben took his first tour to Iran for the Centre for Continuing Education in Ben has also led tours to Greece, Turkey, Syria, Jordan, Egypt, Morocco and China. With his knowledge of the region, Ben is confident that this tour will give people a great insight into the cultures and archaeology of Western Asia. Bargain for a genuine Persian carpet in colourful and bustling bazaars Enjoy the warmth and traditional hospitality of the Iranian people

3 HOW MUCH DOES THE TOUR COST? Land only: (ex Tehran) $7,800 per person (based on twin-share accommodation) $1,420 single supplement for single room Getting there and back The following flights and routing with Emirates best fit the tour s schedule at time of going to print. Friday 23 October, EK413, depart Sydney 2145, arrive Dubai 0530 (24 October) Saturday 24 October, EK971, depart Dubai 0745, arrive Tehran 0925 Sunday 15 November, EK976, depart Tehran 0410, arrive Dubai 0640 Sunday 15 November, EK412, depart Dubai 1015, arrive Sydney 0705 (16 November) If you require assistance with flights and additional arrangements not included in the land cost, please contact the Travel Coordinator, Lissa Sharp, (02) , l.sharp@usyd.edu.au Subject to exchange rate fluctuations and the number of people on the tour, the price may vary. You will be notified immediately of any changes. The land costs are based on a minimum of 10 tour participants. A deposit of $500 per person is required to reserve a place on the tour. The deposit is fully refundable for cancellations made more than 120 days before departure. The full balance is due 60 days before departure. What is included in the land tour cost? All breakfasts, 11 lunches, 20 dinners 2- to 5- star accommodation in selected hotels with private facilities Economy flight from Isfahan to Tehran While on tour, ground transportation by airconditioned coach Excursions including admission to all sites and museums mentioned in the itinerary Services of tour leader, Ben Churcher, from Tehran (24 October) to Tehran (15 November) Services of local guides on tour Group tips to drivers and guides Porterage (one piece of luggage per person) for group arrivals at and group departures from hotels Tour notes, pre-departure meeting and buffet dinner in Sydney One year s subscription to NEAF What is not included in the land cost? Travel insurance (this is a requirement) Visa costs (if required) Meals and activities not mentioned in the itinerary, or listed as optional Tips for individual services Personal expenses, such as laundry, phone and fax bills and other incidentals

4 DETAILED ITINERARY Meals included in itinerary Breakfast (B) Lunch (L) Dinner (D) Saturday 24 October: Tehran We arrive in Tehran. In the afternoon there is a relaxing visit to Tehran s Carpet Museum - just a short walk from our hotel - so that we can start to see the woven masterpieces for which Iran is rightly famous. Overnight: Tehran. (D) Sunday 25 October: Tehran Although not rising to prominence until relatively late in Iran s history, Tehran has now been the capital of Iran for several hundred years. As the former royal seat, the city is graced with fine palaces and equally fine museums. On this first full day in Tehran, we visit Iran s National Museum which is, in fact, two museums in one. In the building to the left are displayed Iran s archaeological treasures including Luristan bronzes, Achaemenian reliefs, Parthian statues and a range of artefacts from the Sassanian Period. The building to the right houses Iran s Islamic Museum which contains a rich collection of pottery vessels, calligraphy, scientific instruments and miniatures. Together this stunning collection of artefacts spans the history of Iran from the dawn of civilisation through to the 20th century. We also visit the small but impressive Reza Abbasi Museum that contains artefacts from across the millennia of Iran s history, as well as the superblypresented Abguineh Glass and Ceramics Museum. In the afternoon we descend into the vault of the Bank of Iran to view the jaw-dropping array of jewelled masterpieces that constitute Iran s Royal Jewels. From emeralds the size of golf balls to the fabled peacock throne, this collection of wealth is unsurpassed. This is a full day exploring museums, but none are overly large and the pace is relaxed, with enough time to absorb all that you see. Overnight: Tehran. (B, D) Monday 26 October: Tehran Another full day in Tehran, we begin with an orientation tour that includes the Golestan Palace, the seat of power for the Qajar Dynasty which ruled Iran from the late 18th century. Here we have our first taste of Qajar mirror tile work and we see the rather magnificent alabaster throne from where the Shah sat in audience. Afterwards we travel to the northern suburbs of Tehran to visit the former residence of the Pahlavi family, the final royal family of Iran. Set in extensive gardens, the Sa ad-abad Palace is a complex of buildings including the White and Green Palaces. Overnight: Tehran. (B, D) Tuesday 27 October: Tehran-Zanjan Today we leave Tehran and travel along the southern flank of the spectacular Albruz Mountains that separate Tehran from the Caspian Sea. Our first stop for lunch and sightseeing is the historically important town of Qazvin. This city was founded by the Sassanians, became an important Seljuk centre and was briefly the capital of Iran under the early Safavid kings. Due to its strategic importance straddling one of the main east-west caravan routes, Qazvin has many impressive monuments that we visit in the afternoon, including the Safavid Period Chehel Sotun, mosques and tomb towers. Afterwards, we continue on to Zanjan. Overnight: Zanjan. (B, L, D) Wednesday 28 October: Zanjan Takab This morning we backtrack slightly to visit the great 14th-century Mausoleum of Oljeitu who was a descendant of Genghis Khan. This mausoleum in the town of Sultaniyeh, stands proud on the plain with very little else around it. After our visit we travel west to the roof of Iran and the small town of Takab that is located at one of the highest points of the Zagros Mountains. Our hotel at Takab is a modest family run affair and there is no mistaking the fact that we are now far from the tourist track. However the landscape of high mountain plains and valleys is rewarding as we get our first impression of the mighty Zagros range that stretches down the entire western flank of Iran. Once in Takab we also notice that we have entered Iranian Kurdistan and the baggy black trousers and head scarves of the men herald that we have arrived in a very different area of Iran. Overnight: Takab. (B, L, D)

5 Thursday 29 October: Takab-Hamadan Departing Takab we drive to the magnificent and secluded site of Takht-e- Solaiman (the Throne of Solomon). This site sits within a broad valley and is centred on a deep lake of natural mineral water. Around this lake, Iranians, at least from the Parthian period (129 BC-AD 224) but probably from the Achaemenian Period ( BC), have built ceremonial structures, including a fire-temple that housed the sacred fire Azar Gushnasp. The site today is surrounded by Sassanian (AD ) fortifications and good portions, including the southern gate, remain intact. From Ctesiphon (near Baghdad) all Sassanian kings walked to Takht-e-Solaiman following their coronation, testament to the religious awe with which this site was held. Takht-e- Solaiman has remained for all who see it, a sacred and enigmatic place. Following our visit we drive to Hamadan via Bijar. Overnight: Hamadan. (B, L, D) Friday 30 October: Hamadan Today we explore the attractive city of Hamadan, ancient Ecbatana. This was the royal city of the Medes ( BC), precursors to the Achaemenid Persians. The site of the city, high in the Zagros Mountains, made it a favourite summer retreat for monarchs who followed the Medes, and its strategic location means the city has been occupied throughout Iranian history. In the morning we visit Ganjnameh where inscriptions by Darius I ( BC), and his son, Xerxes ( BC), are carved into the rocks of the mountain adjacent to tumbling waters and at the head of an extremely attractive valley of fruit trees and villas. Later we drive to the centre of town to visit the Tomb of Esther and Mordecai, a small shrine that honours the Jewish consort to Xerxes (Esther) and her uncle Mordecai. We also visit the 12th-century Alavyan tomb-tower that is now somewhat sadly stranded in a schoolyard. Although some scholars would rather date it to the Mongol Il-Khanide Period ( ), others see similarities to Seljuk ( ) tomb towers, especially the finely carved stucco work of the interior. In the afternoon we visit the archaeological precinct of Tepe Ecbatana, an important and extensive archaeological site dating back to BC. Although major structures dating to the Median and Achaemenid Periods have so far eluded the archaeologists, there are some extensive exposures of domestic housing probably dating to the Median Period and portions of the city walls that would have once surrounded the site. There is a small museum on site which we visit. Finally we see the Stone Lion of Hamadan. This much-worn statue of a lion is almost certainly from the Hellenistic period ( BC) but its original purpose is debatable. Romantics will say that Alexander ordered its construction as a monument to his companion Hephaestion who died in Hamadan, but there is no actual evidence of this. Overnight: Hamadan.(B, D) Saturday 31 October: Nush-i Jan As a day trip from Hamadan we travel south towards the town of Malayer to visit the archaeological site of Nush-i Jan. This site dates to the Median Period and is a superb example of a Median fort, palace and fire-temple. In the palace we see the precursor of the much larger Apadana at Persepolis and it is clear that the later Achaemenid kings sought their architectural inspiration from their Median cousins. The most impressive find by the British archaeologists who excavated the site in the late 1960s was undoubtedly the fire-temple as it is very well-preserved, a consequence of it being deliberately filled to a depth of 6 metres with shale chips to protect its sanctity once the site was abandoned. As a result, this monument is one of the earliest and best-preserved Zoroastrian fire-temples in the whole of western Iran. Returning to Hamadan we have an afternoon at leisure to wander and explore this bustling but attractive provincial town. Overnight: Hamadan. (B, D) Sunday 1 November: Hamadan-Kermanshah Our destination today is Kermanshah, another important and ancient city that lies on the Mesopotamian side of the pass that is guarded by Hamadan to the east. As we descend through this pass towards the Mesopotamian plain we visit Kangavar, a small town that dates back to at least 200 BC. At Kangavar is preserved a temple to Anahita, the Iranian goddess of water and fertility. Although Anahita, and her counterbalance, Mithras, were not recognised as gods by Zoroaster (born 628 BC), they both continued to be venerated right up until the Islamic conquest of Iran (AD 642). Our next stop is at Bisitun to see the famous, and impressive, relief inscription of Darius the Great. The Bisitun trilingual inscriptions provided the key to unlock the ancient languages of Babylon and Elam, as well as ancient Persian itself. The

6 reliefs are carved high on a monumental bluff that rises from the surrounding plain. They show Darius taking submission from the nine rebel kings who opposed Darius coming to the Achaemenid throne. Overnight: Kermanshah. (B, L, D) Monday 2 November: Kermanshah-Andimeshk Today we begin by visiting several important Sassanian reliefs at Taq-i Bustan. This site was used by the Sassanians on the eve of the Islamic conquest as a pleasure garden. Their predecessors, the Parthians, had also used the area for similar purposes and their artificial lake where the king would have been entertained by music is still extant. The Sassanians added a rock cut iwan (a vaulted hall or space opening on one side) with some fine relief sculptures depicting royal hunting scenes and the investiture of the Sassanian kings. The centre piece is the gigantic equestrian statue of Khosrow II (AD ) mounted on his favourite charger Shabdiz. Afterwards we drive into the world of Elam, a pre-persian people who occupied south-western Iran. The height of their power was in the late Bronze Age around 1250 BC but their major city, Susa, was to be used long after the demise of the Elamites. As we drive to Andimeshk we visit the remains of a Sassanian Bridge at Pol-e-Dokhtar. Overnight: Andimeshk. (B, L, D) Tuesday 3 November: Andimeshk-Ahwaz This morning we walk in the footsteps of the Elamites and enter the world of Mesopotamia that is so ubiquitous in nearby, but off-limits, Iraq. Our first visit is to Chogha- Zanbil to see the world s best preserved ziggurat that was built around 1250 BC by the Elamite king Untash-Gal. Although the ziggurat at Chogha-Zanbil has been partly restored and is late in comparison to the ziggurat at Ur (2100 BC), it is a very good example of a Mesopotamian style religious sanctuary with temenos walls (a wall around a shrine or sanctuary that demarcates the sacred area), open courtyards, altars and, of course, the towering ziggurat. Following our visit we continue on to Shush and the ancient site of Susa. As Susa was on the eastern fringe of the Mesopotamian plain, it had more in common with cities such as Ur and Babylon than the cities of the Iranian plateau. It is an ancient city with occupation dating back to 5000 BC and it remained important right up until the Achaemenid period when it was their administrative capital. At the site we visit the remains of Darius palace, although it is only a ruined echo of his contemporary construction at Persepolis. The archaeological remains on the site were unfortunately not spared during the Iran-Iraq War of the 1980s, tragically demonstrating the modern, and ancient, strategic value of the site. While the remains at the site (apart from Darius palace) are barely discernable, the site does have a small museum with some very interesting artefacts including some superb Elamite funerary busts. In the late afternoon we travel to Shushtar, a small town perched on limestone cliffs above the Karun River. Here Sassanian ingenuity can be traced through a remarkable series of interconnecting channels, dams, mills and bridges, some of which are still functioning. Overnight: Ahwaz. (B, L, D) Wednesday 4 November: Ahwaz-Shiraz Today s drive to Shiraz, our base for the next four nights, is long but rewarding. We first leave the Mesopotamian plain and head back up into the Zagros Mountains. In the afternoon we visit Bishapur, the remains of the city built by Shapur I (AD ), the second Sassanian king. The site is spectacularly located as it is overshadowed by fantastic rock formations. The central building complex includes a palace with a vast, once domed, audience hall. Mosaics from the site show strong Byzantine influences albeit with oriental sensibilities, such as veils, being added to the motifs. These could well have been made by the many Roman prisoners who were housed at Bishapur to build the city (although we will have already seen these mosaics in the Tehran Archaeological Museum). Architecturally attached to the palace are the remains of a temple dedicated to the ancient Persian goddess, Anahita, the goddess of water and fertility. Interestingly the site is also home to a very early mosque that displays the Middle Eastern architectural style, rather than the later Turkoman styles. Nearby to Bishapur, on either side of a narrow gorge, we see six Sassanian rock-reliefs commemorating Shapur s victories over the Romans and other adversaries. Here, carved in the style of their Achaemenid predecessors, the Sassanians evoked the memory of the past to show the

7 heights Iran had reached at this point in time, a period when even Roman Emperors became Sassanian prisoners. Leaving Bishapur we pass through the spectacular Persian Gates, a narrow chasm that had to be crossed by Alexander the Great before he could advance on the Achaemenid royal cities. Overnight: Shiraz. (B, L, D) Thursday 5 November: Shiraz Shiraz lies at the heart of the ancient Achaemenid realm and although the nearby sites of Persepolis and Pasargadae are well known, very little of Achaemenidperiod Shiraz has come to light. This is strange as the city, 2,500 metres high in the Zagros, occupies a strategic position with narrow gorges protecting the main access points. However, from the Islamic period the city rises in prominence to become a seat of learning by the 12th century. This achievement is witnessed in the fact that the city produced two of Iran s most loved poets, Sa di and Hafez. For a time during the 18th century, Shiraz was the capital of Iran under the Zand dynasty. Although damaged by earthquakes in the past and eclipsed by Isfahan, the city has much to see. Shiraz s nickname is the city of roses and nightingales, and for a region that bequeathed us the Shiraz grape, it is no wonder that gardens thrive in Shiraz and they have always been a focal point of life in the city. Much of what we see today dates to the 19th century and we will get a good appreciation of the homes, gardens and mosques that survive from these times. The Eram Garden with its avenue of large trees and rose gardens is a good example of Shiraz s gardens, along with the Qajarperiod Narenjestan house with its wonderful courtyard and main porch. We also visit the tombs of Iran s great lyric poets, Hafez and Sa di, and the beautiful pink-tiled 19th-century Nasir-ol-Molk Mosque. (cover image) In the afternoon we explore the beautiful Vakil Bazaar and view the exterior of the 19th century holy shrine of Shah-e-Cheragh (a Shi ite saint). Overnight: Shiraz. (B, D) Friday 6 November: Shiraz Excursion - Persepolis Today is a full day excursion to Persepolis, one of the most evocative sites of the ancient world. Persepolis was the ceremonial capital of the Achaemenid kings, used primarily during celebrations of the New Year. This important festival included envoys coming from all over the empire to bring tribute to the Persian king. While Susa was the administrative capital, Persepolis was clearly dear to the Persians hearts as this was their ancestral homeland. Remains at the site include the Apadana or audience hall along with the remains of the palaces of Darius I, Xerxes and Artaxerxes. The highlight of the site is the famous relief carved around the palace s podium. These beautifully carved figures depict kings, courtiers and gift-bearing representatives from all corners of the Persian Empire. After visiting the palace and its museum, we also visit the nearby site of Naqsh-i Rustam, the burial site of the greatest of the Achaemenid kings. High up on the cliff face, the Achaemenid monarchs, beginning with Darius I, had tomb facades carved, along with inscriptions recording their reigns and depictions of Ahura Mazda, the Wise Lord of Zoroastrian belief. In front of these tombs, stands the Ka be- Zardosht, (Zoroaster s Cube), an Achaemenidperiod fire-temple. Cut into the same cliff-face as the royal Achaemenid tombs are also seven magnificent Sassanian rock-reliefs, including Shapur the First s famous victory over Roman Emperor Valerian. Overnight: Shiraz. (B, L, D) Saturday 7 November: Firouzabad As another day-trip from Shiraz we drive south past striking scenery to visit the Sassanian remains at the city of Firouzabad. This city was built by the first Sassanian king, Ardashir, on a circular plan, and its walls, towers, buildings, wells and water channels are still discernable among the undergrowth. The highlight of the site is the

8 huge palace (105 x 55 metres) built by Ardashir to commemorate his victory over the Parthians. The architecture here shows Sassanian ingenuity at its best. Soaring iwans, huge domes, early examples of squinches, (an architectural device used as a transition from a square to a polygonal or circular base for a dome) Pharaonicinspired cornices and large audience halls are still impressive, even if they have lost their decorative layer of stucco. Returning to Shiraz there is time at leisure in the afternoon to rest or visit the bazaar. Overnight: Shiraz (B, L, D) Sunday 8 November: Shiraz-Yazd Our first stop this morning is Pasargadae, the site of Cyrus the Great s capital after his victory over the Medes in 550 BC. Because of its direct association with Cyrus, this site is important indeed. It was from here that Cyrus extended the traditional homeland of the Persians to include not only the territory of the Medes, but also of the Babylonians, the Scythians, the Lydians and the Syrians. The empire this formed set a precedent for all western empires that followed. Cyrus and his predecessors ran a bureaucratic machine with standard weights and measures, common coinage, well-maintained communications and regions divided into satraps with governors answerable directly to the king. Pasargadae, where all this began, contains Cyrus simple, but impressive tomb and the remains of his palace. Within the palace at Pasargadae the rarefied world of ancient Aryan customs, eunuchs, harems and divine kingship were enacted. The site was probably located in an area that was sacred to the early Persians and today its location on a broad plain with mountains as a backdrop is highly evocative. On the way to Yazd we stop at Abarkuh, a typical desert town, and have tea under the shade of a 4,000-year old cypress tree. Overnight: Yazd. (B, L, D) Monday 9 November: Yazd Today we have a morning tour of the desert city of Yazd, the centre for Iran s small Zoroastrian community. This community has survived over 1,350 years of Islamic domination, a domination that induced most of their brethren to flee to India. While the community s numbers have dwindled, at Yazd you get a taste of the Zoroastrian faith which is, with Judaism, one of the world s oldest monotheistic religions. During our visit we see a Zoroastrian dakhma (tower of silence), which dates back to the 17th century but was still in use until some years ago. A dakhma was an open and exposed area where birds would pick clean the bones of the dead. According to Zoroastrian belief, this practice prevented the holy earth from being contaminated by the decomposing body. While the dakhma is no longer used, there is an active Zoroastrian fire-temple in Yazd that we shall visit. Inside, they say, the fire has been burning for about 1500 years. The afternoon is at leisure to relax or explore the town at your own pace. Overnight: Yazd. (B, D) Tuesday 10 November: Yazd Yazd is famous for its Timurid Period ( ) monuments and this morning we have the opportunity to visit several stunning examples of their architecture which is characterised by soaring, slender minarets and beautiful tile work. Although Yazd s Friday Mosque was built in 1324, a soaring iwan was added during the Timurid period (1442), along with two slender minarets that are the highest in Iran. The decorative tile work that covers this portal is one of the finest examples we will see. Other notable Islamic monuments in Yazd are the Seljuk shrine dedicated to the Twelve Shi ite Imams and the Ziaieyeh Theological School, known as Zendan-e-Eskander or Alexander s Prison. There are also many beautiful old houses in Yazd, among them, at the Dowlat- Abad Garden, a beautiful 18th century house built in the shape of a hexagon. Wandering the Old Town of Yazd is a real pleasure and it is recommended that you take the opportunity to explore further in the afternoon which is free of organised activities. Overnight: Yazd. (B, D) Wednesday 11 November: Yazd-Isfahan On our way to Isfahan, we first stop at Na in which is famous for its beautiful (and expensive!) carpets. In the city we visit one of Iran s oldest mosques, the Masjid-e Jami or Friday Mosque. This mosque, when it was first

9 built, was constructed in the Middle Eastern style. However the builders here faced hurdles, such as the lack of timber and the lack of Classical columns, both of which were readily available to architects in Syria. The mosque at Na in is therefore an early response to the environmental conditions the Islamic invaders found themselves in when they first settled within Iran. This is easily seen in the Friday Mosque in the use of brickwork throughout the mosque, as well as piers and arches to carry the roof. While in Na in we also visit a beautiful example of a Safavid-period private house, the Pirnia House which is decorated with delicate monochrome painted plaster decoration. Pirnia House also contains a small ethnographic museum. Our three night stay in Isfahan is at the famous Abbasi Hotel, formerly a caravanserai, but now an extremely comfortable hotel with stunning gardens. Overnight: Isfahan. (B, L, D) Thursday 12 November: Isfahan Isfahan is an ancient city that embodies the history of Iran. To the Achaemenians it was Gabal, to the Sassanians, Jay. Some of the earliest surviving monuments are Seljuk, and while it survived the Mongol invasion, Timur severely punished the city for rebelling against his rule. The Timurids however added some fine monuments to the city that was again substantially rebuilt during the Safavid period when the capital was moved from Tabriz to Isfahan. To the Safavids the city represented their crowning glory and it was referred to as Nesf-e-Jahan (Half of the World). In this full day tour we visit the famous bridges of Shahrestan, Khajou and Sio-se-pol that were designed to be bridges, weirs and places of recreation all at the same time. We also walk through the Armenian Julfa Quarter that contains several churches, including the important Cathedral of Vank. In the afternoon we visit one of the world s grandest squares the Maidan-e-Naghsh-e- Jahan. This was the centrepiece of the Safavid city. Today it is a broad arena of gardens and lawns, but in its day it was a jostling, rowdy camping ground where merchants from across Iran would stay while trading in town. Surrounding this space is a continuous avenue of shops, along with grand portals to the royal palace and the Friday Mosque. We leave our visit of the mosque until tomorrow and today concentrate on Ali-Qapu Palace with its enchanting music rooms and balcony overlooking the Maidan. From this balcony the Safavid kings watched polo games and military parades, along with the general tumult below. Also adjoining the Maidan are two important mosques, the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, the private oratory of Shah Abbas I, and the Masjid-e Imam that represents the apogee of Persian mosque design with its magnificent architecture and tile work. We finish with a visit to the Qeisarieh Bazaar with hundreds of shops displaying the arts and handicrafts for which Isfahan is world-famous. Overnight: Isfahan. (B) Friday 13 November: Isfahan We begin with a visit to the magnificent Friday Mosque that incorporates much of Iran s Islamic history within its various stages of construction. Its lofty iwan, extensive tile work and sumptuously decorated mihrab (a niche in a mosque facing Mecca) all make a visit to this mosque one of the highlights of our visit. Afterwards we visit the nearby royal palace precinct with its tranquil pavilions, gardens and ponds. Of particular note is Hasht Behesht (Eight Paradise) and Chehel Sotun (Forty Columns); a graceful porch built out of slender wooden columns in a style more at home in Central Asia. The afternoon is free for leisure or bargaining. Overnight: Isfahan. (B) Saturday 14 November: Tehran This morning we take a flight back to Tehran. After checking into our hotel which, for your comfort and convenience, has been booked for the night, we spend some time in the bazaar of Tehran. The rest of the day is at leisure before our final dinner together. Overnight: Tehran. (B, D) Sunday 15 November: Departure A very early morning transfer to Tehran Airport has been arranged for your journey home.

10 Everywhere in Iran, visitors are welcomed with a genuine warmth that is sometimes overwhelming! Copyright for all images is held by Ben Churcher.

11 ADDITIONAL INFORMATION Accommodation Star rating classification varies from country to country. All hotels on this tour have been rated 2 to 5- star and have been carefully selected for their comfort and/or location. Porterage (one piece of luggage per person) is included for group arrivals at and group departures from each hotel. Proposed Hotels: Tehran: Laleh Hotel Zanjan: Grand Zanjan Takab: Ranji Hamandan: Bu-Ali Kermanshah: Azadegan Andimeshk: Grand Andimeshk Ahwaz: Fajr Shiraz: Homa Hotel Yazd: Safaiyeh Isfahan: Abbasi Background Talks To get the most out of a visit to a town, site or building, two things are usually required: historical and practical information about the place you are visiting and time to see it properly. An important component of the tour is a series of historical and cultural background talks given by your tour leader and complemented by local guides. Pre-Departure Meeting Approximately 4 weeks before your departure there will be an evening meeting and buffet dinner. This allows you to meet your tour leader and fellow travelling companions and gain valuable information regarding climate, currency and practical travel information. Weather Spring and autumn are quite short seasons in Iran between the heat of summer and the more changeable and often cold weather of winter. These seasons are the best time to visit Iran even if the weather may, on occasions, be a little uncertain with short lapses into either the cold of winter or the heat of summer. In general, Iran has an arid climate in which most of the relatively scant annual precipitation falls from October through April. In most of the country, yearly precipitation averages 25 centimetres or less. The major exceptions are the higher mountain valleys of the Zagros where precipitation averages at least 50 centimetres annually. In Tehran the temperature ranges between 7 and 24 degrees Celsius during October and 6 and 17 degrees Celsius in November with similar temperatures throughout the country at this time of year. Fitness Overseas travel takes us beyond our usual physical and mental comfort zone. Therefore, please consider the following carefully. In order to enjoy the natural beauty of the countryside and the archaeological sites, it is often necessary to walk reasonable distances as motor access may be difficult. You should be fit enough to walk for periods of up to 90 minutes with only short breaks. A pair of comfortable walking shoes with a firm grip is recommended. If after carefully reading this daily tour program, you have any concerns about your fitness or ability to participate in this tour, particularly anything which may cause delay or inconvenience to others, please contact the Travel Coordinator ( ) to discuss further the physical demands of the tour. Islamic Modesty and Dress On this topic we have received the following very useful information from Ms. Parvaneh Sattari of Pasargad Tours, our ground operator in Iran: Ladies should observe the Islamic dress code here, currently much relaxed, which consists of wearing a headscarf (no restriction on colour or pattern, but cool cotton is recommended), and modest clothes that cover the body. This can be knee-length shirts/tunics worn over long, loose, pants or skirts. A Pakistani-style Shalvar- Kameez is a good substitute. Alternatively, ladies can buy the regular Islamic Manteau, which is easily available here, at the cost of $US Men should refrain from wearing shorts. T-shirts and short-sleeve shirts for men are fine. In general female visitors to Iran tend to over-imagine what is required in terms of dress and often dress far more conservatively than the Iranians themselves! A general rule of thumb is to wear a headscarf and loose clothing that covers the arms and legs. Even an oversize cotton shirt worn over pants would be fine. Bear in mind that you will be hot in many parts of Iran, so cool headscarves are a must. It is also fun to shop for suitable

12 clothing items while in Iran, so only bring enough to get you through the first week or so. IMPORTANT INFORMATION REGARDING TRAVEL TO IRAN 1. The import, possession or consumption of alcoholic drinks is illegal in Iran. There are no restrictions on medicines containing alcohol however. 2. People s privacy, especially women, should be respected when taking photographs. No photography is permitted around military headquarters, depots and police stations or within airport transit halls. What kind of people travel with us? The age of participants varies from 18 to 80, but most are over 50 and independent travellers wanting the assurance that most of the technical things on tour are taken care of. With all our tours we ask participants to give feedback. Over the years they have told us that the main reasons they continue to travel with Continuing Education include: Well-delivered and carefully-planned itineraries that combine intellectual engagement with enjoyment and relaxation Informed, enthusiastic and caring tour leaders, many of whom present regular courses at CCE on themes relevant to tours they are leading Being with like-minded travellers who want to be part of a lively and informed group. Safety and Security Your safety and security are our priority. If the Australian Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade issues an official do not travel warning for places visited on a tour, we cancel the tour and give you a full refund. The Near Eastern Archaeology Foundation This tour is run in conjunction with the Near Eastern Archaeology Foundation. A portion of the tour price is donated to NEAF to help fund its activities, and in return, each participant of this tour will receive a year s free membership of the Foundation. The aims of the Near Eastern Archaeology Foundation are to further research in the archaeology of the Near East, Egypt and Cyprus and to bring the world of Near Eastern Archaeology to the general public. Our first aim is achieved by giving grants to postgraduate research students working in those fields that are the major concern of the Foundation. The second aim of the Foundation, to make Near Eastern Archaeology more accessible to the general public, is achieved in a variety of ways. During the year, the Foundation offers several lectures on Near Eastern, Cypriot and Egyptian archaeology to its members, and as opportunities arise, the Foundation endeavours to arrange private viewings of touring archaeological exhibitions. Since 1992 NEAF has managed a volunteer system that enables lay people to participate in an overseas archaeological excavation, and by their financial and physical contribution, enable excavation and research to take place. The Near Eastern Archaeology Foundation allows people who would have little or no contact with this fascinating study of their past, other than through the written word, to achieve not only first hand experience of excavation and study, but also to further the careers and the research of the graduate students who are so often their teachers and friends. For further information please contact: The Near Eastern Archaeology Foundation c/- Archaeology A14 The University of Sydney NSW 2006 AUSTRALIA (+ 61) fax: (+61) neaf@arts.usyd.edu.au