PARIS METROPOLIS OF FASHION & FLAIR

Transcription

1 PRIS METROPOLIS OF FSHION & FLIR

2 This book, cross Europe with valon, is divided into 14 chapters. Its aim is to provide you with a general introduction to the history, arts, culture and music of those countries that you might visit during a trip on one of the cruise-ships of the valon-waterways fleet. The book covers such fascinating and impressive European waterways as the Rhine, the Moselle, the Saone and Rhone, the Seine, the Main, the Main-anube Canal and the anube, as well as presenting the most important and interesting sights of the classic metropolises, Paris, Pragues, Munich, Bucharest and Istanbul. This book makes no claim to being a standard travel guide offering the usual 'nuts and bolts' practical information about precisely how, when and where to do this, that and the other. Instead, it is meant to be a useful companion on your travels, helping you to focus on those things that will make your trip to Europe so special and memorable. Conceived as a supplement to the information material you will receive on board, it is designed to answer many of those questions that might arise and to serve as an attractive souvenir of your trip. Copyright, istribution, Concept, Production Management: photography, film and texts General Organization: rmin Rausch (projekt ard) The uthor: Pia Rosbach (eg-media) Translation: ndrew Cowin Layout: Tim Reichenthaler Maps: Huber Medien The company projekt ard specializes in the production of texts, images and maps for tourists. For details about all of the company s products, see our homepage: The company eg-media specializes in the production of photography, films and texts relating to all aspects of tourism and travel; its clients include major international tour operators. ll of the photographs in this book were taken by eg-media (Einhard Giehrl) except the following: p. 17 below (Håkan Svensson); p. 70/71 top and center (Koblenz-Tourismus); p. 82/83 (üsseldorf Marketing & Tourismus GmbH); p. 138 below (ndrew Cowin); p. 264 top (Stadt Bamberg); p. 271 top (Würzburg-Tourismus); p. 297 (udi G, Ingolstadt); p. 323 (Matthias Köhne) p. 390 below (Serbisches Tourismusamt); p. 418 below; p. 420 below-left and right (rumaenien-tourismus.de) istockphoto.com: Thomas Bredenfeld p. 6, TommL p. 8-9, Gmalandra p. 8 9, amir Spanic p. 12, Terry Lawrence p , Gregory Olsen p , ndreastes p. 15, ndrey Kiselev p. 16, rusm p , Josef Muellek p. 18, Tatsiana liakseyeva p , Sergey Korotkih p , avor Ratkovic p , pop_jop p , Mervana p. 25, pialhovik p. 103, CGinspiration p , Yuriy Kirsanov p , Björn Kindler p. 336, xyno p. 343, aprott p. 349, Brian Raisbeck p , lexander unkel p. 355, photo75 p. 362, visual7 p , Johan Ramberg p The information contained in this guide has been researched as carefully as possible. The publisher cannot accept responsibility for any consequences resulting from changes in information, errors or omissions. ll rights reserved. No part of the texts or photographs of this publication may be reproduced in any form without prior consent of the publisher. (October 2012) The following symbols will be found in this book: offers tours carefully tailored to the individual wishes and interests of their passengers. Thus, you yourself have decided whether, for example, starting from Basel, you would prefer to cruise the Rhine as far as msterdam or, rather, to join the Main by Mainz in order to travel along the anube. These arrows indicate where you can find more information about the next section of your cruise program. continue e valon-waterways iii For many of the destinations that you will visit, you will receive on board not only a city map but also handouts containing a great deal of useful information. These cities are marked with an H. The present book makes only brief reference to the main sights in these destinations, but numerous photographs should help to whet your appetite to find out more. You would like to know more about specific subjects ranging from Vincent van Gogh to French gardens to Moselle wines...? Then keep an eye open for the sidebars with red headlines containing such detailed information. While your valon ship will drop you right on the doorstep of the most exciting cities and sites located on Europe's rivers, there are also a number of very interesting destinations well worth a detour by bus. Those excursions offered on your river cruise are indicated by the green bus icon. Possible Enhancement In many cities, English-speaking tour guides will ensure that you see and enjoy all of the most famous and interesting sights. However, as you might like to do a little exploring on your own initiative, this book offers some tips and suggestions about how you can further enhance your experience.

3 PRIS METROPOLIS OF FSHION N FLIR Moveable Feast : this was the title Ernest Hemingway gave to his book recalling his stay in the city of Paris, which was his home for almost 5 years. nd this great writer is just one of the many authors, artists, musicians and visitors who have felt the urge to declare their love for the French capital in the most glowing terms. Thanks to its many fascinating sights, countless museums and galleries, and its unique flair and atmosphere, one could spend weeks in Paris and still be finding lots of new things to do every day. s the Seine did much to shape the growth and development of the city, many of Paris most worthwhile sights are located close to the banks of its river, However, it is important to remember that the French capital is a major metropolis whose points of interest are spread over a large area. For this reason, taking a guided round tour is a convenient way of taking a first look at the city s main points of interest. It enables one to find one s bearings and gain a first impression of the city of love, as well as revealing something of the finer points that distinguish the various quarters and the cosmopolitan diversity that makes Paris most definitely a moveable feast in every possible sense! H Main Sights of Paris. Montmartre Former rtists Quarter Versailles Palace of the Sun King Possible Enhancement: Paris by Boat No doubt about it the most relaxing way to enjoy Paris is from the deck of a boat. s the low bridges here mean that the Seine in Paris is not navigable for rivercruise ships, those wishing to see the city from the water have to choose between a Batobus, i.e., literally a bus boat, or one of the so-called Bateaux-Mouches or Vedettes. There are plenty of easy-to-find embarkation points between the Île de la Cité and the Eiffel Tower (e.g., Pont d Iéna, Pont de l lma, Notre-ame). If one embarks on the left bank of the Seine close to the Cathedral of Notre-ame, the boat trip first takes one past the Île de la Cité and the Île Saint-Louis. On reaching the Botanical Gardens, the boat turns and passes the Hôtel de Ville, Conciergerie and Pont-Neuf. Soon after, the right bank is dominated by the Louvre, once the biggest of all royal palaces, while the left bank is notable for the d Orsay containing a superlative collection of Impressionist art. Further along the river, the Place de la Concorde appears on the right, followed by the Petit Palais and Grand Palais when one reaches the Pont lexandre III. On the opposite bank, the ôme des Invalides is an impressive edifice. Close to the Eiffel Tower and the Palais de Chaillot, most riverboats turn around and sail back to their point of departure.

4 0 500 m feet Bd Péreire v. des Ternes v. de la Gr. rmée venue Foch venue Victor Hugo venue Kléber Place du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre Pont de Bir Hakeim Saint Charles Place Charles de Gaulle 8 rc de Triomphe Centre de Conf. Intern. Palais Galliera de Lübeck de venue de New v. Niel v. Mac-Mahon Palais de Tokyo 9 v. Niel Seine Quai Branly Eiffel Tower de la Fédération v. du o 4 Parc du Champ de Mars venue Hoche Pl. de la Résistance v. Rapp v. George V Bd du Faubourg Saint-Honoré venue Marceau Bassano Président Wilson York venue de Suffren 1 Bd Berthier v. de Wagram 1 venue de Chambre de Commerce Parc Monceau venue Montaigne Pereire de Prony v.de la Bourdonnais v. de Wagram v. de Friedland de Berri F. 1er venue Bosquet Bd Villiers Boulevard de Courcelles de Grenelle École Militaire Statione Pont-Cardinet J. ndré Palais de la ècouverte Quai d Orsay R. Jouffroy bbans Monceau de Ponthieu F. 1er venue de La Motte Picquet Bd Malesherbes Saint Cardinet Bd Haussmann venue des Champs Élysées v. Franklin elano Roosevelt Bd de la Tour Maubourg Grand Palais Place des Invalides Hôtel des 10 Invalides Legendre v. de Messine La Boétie v. Matign on Cardinet de Saussure Monceau Palais de l Élysée Cours lbert-1er Cours la Reine Île de la Cité with the Cathedral of Notre-ame Hôtel de Ville Louvre d Orsay v. de Tourville v. du Mal Gallieni v. de Breteuil Pl. St- ugustin Mairie Min. de l Intérieur Petit Palais ssemblée Nationale ominique Boulevard des Invalides de Míromesnil Bd I.G.N. Rodin R. Legendre des ames de de Constantinople du Rocher Place de la Concorde Min. Min. Rome Min. de Varenne Vaneau 7 Obélisque Orangerie Hôtel Matignon de Babylone Mairie Bd des Batignolles de Vienne Gare St-Lazare Pl. de la Madeleine Pl. de Clichy de la Pépinière Malesherbes du Faubourg Saint-Honoré de Saint-Pétersbourg Tronchet 5 d Orsay 4 Min. y Cimetière y y de y y Montmartre 12 Moulin Rouge 6 Opéra de Paris Garnier Pl. de l Opéra La Madeleine Place Vendôme Saint-Honoré Jardin des Tuileries Q. des Tuileries Quai natole France Bd Saint Germain Caulaincourt Blanche de de l Université Bd Raspail de msterdam de Clichy venue de l Opéra Jean- Baptiste Pigalle Saint-Honoré Pyramide des Saints Pères R. Garreau Louvre 3 Pl. Pigalle Notre ame de Lorette de Châteaudin Bonaparte St-Pierre des Petits Champs Bourse Bibliothèque Nationale Banque de France Bonrse du Commerce Palais Royal Pal. de Justice R. de Pont Neuf Maubeuge du Louvre Rodier Île de la Cité Basilica of Sacré-Cœur 11 v. Trudaine de Montmartre Berger Ste Chapelle de Clignancourt de Rochechouart Provence Richer du Quatre Septembre de Rivoli Q. Voltaire 6 Cistern of 1001 Columns 5 La Madeleine 9 7 Great Bazaar 6 Opéra de Paris Garnier 10 8 Spice Bazaar Place de la Concorde Roxelane Bath 8 rc de Triomphe 12 Bd de Clichy R. Lepic Bd Haussmann de Richelieu de Richelieu Bd Saint Germain Bd de La Fayette Bd d. Italiens Quai du Louvre Q. Malaquais Rochechouart Eiffel Tower Hôtel des Invalides Basilica of Sacré-Cœur Moulin Rouge Bd Montmartre Bergère R. Réaumur Forum Saint Vincent de Paul des Hôtel ieu x x ensity: 20,980 Inhabitants Metropolis of per km 2 (54,300 pe mi 2 1 R. Leon de la Goutte Or Petites Ecuries d Hauteville d boukir d boukir Q. de la Mégisserie E. Marcel Quai de Montebello du Cristal Saint enis Centre Pompidou Boulevard de Sébastopol R. du Renard Hôtel de Ville Notre ame Île Saint-Louis Boulevard de la Chapelle Maubeuge du Fbg. Gare du Nord St-enis Gare de l Est La Fayette Bd de Bonne Nouvelle R. de la Cité Boulevard Barbès Boulevard de Magenta de Bd de Strasbourg du Fbg. St-Martin Conservatoire de Turbigo des rchives Q. de l Hôtel de Ville Marx ormoy rchives Nationales R. du épartement L. Blanc Bd de Magenta Bd St-Martin Réaumur Rivoli Paris: Land area: km 2 (40,7 mi 2 ) Population: 2,211,297 R. du Faubourg St-Martin Place de la République R. des Francs Bourgeois Bd Henri IV Bd Morland Q. Henri IV Seine Quai Saint Bernard

5 The Main Sights of Paris The Main Sights of Paris The germ cell of the Seine metropolis was the Île de la Cité. No more than a fishing village at first, later a center of ecclesiastical authority and then the power base of the national government during the French Revolution the history of the Île de la Cité is the history of the city itself. The island s most impressive monument inside and out is the Cathedral of Notre-ame, whose fame spread throughout the world after the publication of Victor Hugo s novel, The Hunchback of Notre ame. mong all the French Gothic church interiors with tribunes, it is the largest, and particularly its west façade with its three portals, the gallery of kings and many grotesque gargoyles (chimières) is ornately decorated. t its east end, the flying buttresses are both attractive and functionally important: by transferring the downward thrust of the interior vaulting away from the walls, they allowed the architect to insert unusually large window openings. Hidden away behind the walls of the Palace of Justice, the Île de la Cité has another outstanding jewel of Gothic architecture, the two-story Sainte-Chapelle, which was completed in 1248 during the Cathedral of Notre-ame The east end reign of Louis IX as a magnificent repository for relics such as Christ s crown of thorns. The rather squat Lower Chapel was for the use of servants and commoners, while the Upper Chapel was reserved for the king and the royal family. The part of the Palace of Justice called the Conciergerie Notre ame Figures on the main portal was once the notorious anteroom of death for those about to be guillotined. mong those who spent their last minutes here before execution were Marie ntoinette, Georges anton and Maximilien de Robespierre. Paris and the Symbol of New York No, this particular Statue of Liberty is not located in New York! Rather, it is to be found quite close to your point of embarkation on the Île aux Cygnes right in the center of Paris. The New York statue was designed by the French sculptor, F.. Bartholdi, as a gift commemorating the eclaration of Independence of the United States. This is why Paris is not only the home of the original model of the statue but also of several copies, including the one you see on the Seine island, the Île aux Cygnes.

6 The Main Sights of Paris irectly on the right bank of the Seine and overlooking a spacious square, one can hardly help noticing a striking building with numerous gables, statues and turrets: the City Hall (Hôtel de Ville). This is situated on the fringes of a quarter called the Marais, which was the residential part of the city most favored by its noble inhabitants until the 18 th century. Nowadays, some of their former palaces house interesting museums, for example, the Carnavalet covering the history of Paris up to 1789, and the Picasso in the Hôtel Salé. The Place des Vosges is surrounded on all sides by a uniform and harmonious ensemble of three-story mansions with fine arcading. t its center, there is an equestrian stat- ue of Louis XIII, who commissioned the construction of this square in Important per- sonalities like Cardinal Richelieu and Victor Hugo lived here at one time and another. Where old and new rub shoulders The Place des Vosges one of the oldest squares in Paris... The French RevoLUTIon The BIRTh of LIBERTy in Europe Liberté, egalité, fraternité this rallying call of the French Revolution ( ) was the first affirmation in the Old World of those fundamental principles of the eclaration of Independence upon which the identity of the United States of merica was established. Liberty, equality, fraternity however, the overthrow of the existing absolutist monarchy was effected by an uprising of the people against a system of repression and injustice during which bloodshed, violence and shocking brutality often held sway: the storming of the Bastille, a prison mainly containing enemies of the king (July 14, 1789), and the execution of Louis XVI (1792) and of his wife, Marie-ntoinette (1793), are among the best-known events during the turbulent years of the Revolution. fter 1795, Napoleon Bonaparte was able to curb such revolutionary excesses and, having become the commander-in-chief of the army, declared the end of the Revolution in and the Opéra Bastille (1989) Sainte- Chapelle Called the gateway to heaven in medieval times The Hôtel de Ville In neo-renaissance style

7 The Main Sights of Paris The du Louvre is simply beyond compare. Before the Sun King, Louis XIV, moved his seat of government to Versailles in 1682, the Louvre was the center of power of the French monarchy. It is now the home of one of the world s largest and most important The Collections of the MUSée du Louvre art collections. Not only works like the Mona Lisa by Leonardo da Vinci or the Lace-Maker by Jan Vermeer attract countless thousands of visitors each year: the Venus de Milo (2 nd century BC) and the Slave by Michelangelo are famous throughout the world. In the Louvre, seven departments are open to the public: the Paintings Gallery spanning European art from 1400 to 1900 and including famous works such as the Lace-Maker by Jan Vermeer and the Mona Lisa by Leonardo da Vinci; European Sculpture, ranging from early Romanesque carvings to sculpture from the 19 th century; the Greek, Etruscan and Roman Collection, including such famous sculptures as the Venus de Milo and the Nike ( Winged Victory ) of Samothrace: the Egyptian Section with a magnificent collection of Egyptian art and artefacts; the Oriental Collections including the world s most ancient legal document; the epartment of ecorative rts, whose objets d art embrace jewelry, furniture and other arts and crafts; a section devoted to the History of the Louvre itself. These collections are spread over three stories in several wings (Sully, enon, Richelieu) of the building complex. The sheer size of the museum means that every visitor needs to pick out his or her own points of interest. etailed information to help you plan and structure your visit can be picked up by the entrance in the glass pyramid. Opposite the Louvre on the left bank of the Seine, the d Orsay is another remarkable treasury of the arts. This is principally devoted to paintings, sculpture, graphic works and arts and crafts produced during the period between 1848 and Its most popular section is that containing one of the greatest collections of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist Paintings, including Manet s Le éjeuner sur l Herbe, Gauguins s Tahitian Women on the Beach and Monet s Blue Water Lilies and Rouen Cathedral. nother highlight is a bronze cast of Rodin s Gate of Hell. Édouard Manet Le éjeuner sur l Herbe The Louvre faces toward the Jardin du Carrousel containing the rc de Triomphe du Carrousel. Built on the command of Napoleon in 1808, this triumphal arch between the Louvre and the Tuileries Garden was based on Roman models. The archway is topped by a figure of the Goddess of Peace on a two-wheeled chariot drawn by four horses. This structure is not to be confused with the better-known (and twice as big) rc de Triomphe at the end of the Champs-Élysées. Beyond the Jardin du Carrousel, one comes to the spacious park, the Jardin des Tuileries. Paris largest and oldest garden was designed and laid out in 1664 by ndré Le Nôtre, the court gardener of the Sun King. elightful fountains, numerous sculptures, geometrically patterned flowerbeds along with plenty of park-benches and pleasant cafés mean that this is a popular place to linger not only for tourists but for locals, too. The glass pyramid The main entrance to the Louvre since 1989 The d Orsay Housed in a splendid former railway station

8 The Main Sights of Paris The appearance of the city of Paris is (and always has been) in a constant state of flux. One of the periods of most drastic change was during the second half of the 19 th century, during which the city s population doubled (from 1 to 2 million) in just 20 years between 1850 and In response to this, many quarters were completely rebuilt, for example the area to the north and north-west of the Louvre. Napoleon III entrusted the modernization of his capital to Baron Haussmann, who swept aside its medieval The Phantom of the oper stores and boutiques flank the boulevards around the majestic Opéra de Paris Garnier. Parliament building, hall of fame or church? t the time of its construction, the precise purpose of La Madeleine was by no means clear. The edifice is surrounded by a colonnade of 52 Corinthian columns. Only after its completion in 1852 was it finally decided to consecrate the vast building as a church. One of the most elegant parts of the city is the near- Strange and inexplicable sounds rising from below and a mysterious fatal accident these circumstances and the fear of those working in the theater of the building s sinister cellar with its labyrinthine passageways and natural reservoir gave rise to the legend of Le Fantome de l Opéra de Paris Garnier. Uncanny events were the source of both anxiety and imaginative explanations that first found expression in a novel called The Phantom of the Opera by Gaston Leroux (1911); later, the story was the subject of several movies and was finally used as the basis for a musical by ndrew Lloyd Webber (1986) that continues to enjoy worldwide popularity. streets and replaced them with broad avenues, large squares and imposing edifices, whose grandeur still fascinates and impresses visitors from all over the world even today. Monumental bank buildings, splendid hotels and upmarket La Madeleine Parliament building, hall of fame or church? by Place Vendôme. It was Napoleon who ordered the construction of the 144-foot-high (40 m) Triumphal column, the Colonne de Vendôme. Several of the surrounding mansions now house various banks and jeweler s stores, while the Ministry of Justice and the Ritz Hotel add further distinction to the scene. One of Paris most beautiful and historically important squares is the Place de la Concorde. uring the French Revolution, a guillo- The Place de la Concorde With Cleopatra s Needle and its Fontaine des Fleuves tine stood here; Louis XVI and his wife, Marie-ntoinette, were the most prominent among the thousands of people who lost their heads here. Since 1832, the center of the square has been dominated by the enormous 3200-year-old obelisk from Luxor (Egypt), sometimes called Cleopatra s Needle. Eight female figures adorn the outside of the square, and these are meant to symbolize the most important cities in France, including Lille, Strasbourg, Lyon, Marseilles and Rouen. Somewhat obscured by trees, the merican Embassy is located nearby. The Place de la Concorde is the point at which the venue des Champs-Élysées begins its majestic course. To the left, there are two former pavilions built on the occasion of the World Exhibition in 1900: the Petit Palais containing the City of Paris Museum of Fine rts and the Grand Palais that now houses a science museum. On the right, set amid a large park, the Élysée Palace is the official residence of the French president. Further along in the western part of the Champs-Élysées, Paris best-known avenue is flanked by elegant stores, cinemas, cafés and restaurants. On July 14, this is the venue of parades celebrating the anniversary of the storming of the Bastille, while the world s most famous bicycle race, the Tour de France, always culminates here around the end of July.

9 The Main Sights of Paris rrow-straight, the boulevard (about 1 mile long and 230 feet wide; 1.7 km long and 70 m wide) leads toward the rc de Triomphe, a symbol of the city of Paris. This triumphal arch was commissioned in 1806 by Napoleon after his decisive and perhaps greatest military triumph at the Battle of usterlitz; however, it was only completed after his death. The edifice is 160 feet (49 m) high, 147 feet (45 m) wide and 72 feet (22 m) deep. Below the archway, the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier was created after the First World War. From the viewing platform of the rc de Triomphe, one has a fine view of the twelve avenues that converge on this junction. Further west, one can also see the Grande rche, a modern triumphal arch toward which the continuation of the venue des Champs-Élysées The Eiffel Tower For many, the symbol of France leads. More than twice as high as its historic counterpart and shaped like a hollow cube, this was erected on the occasion of the 200 th anniversary of the French Revolution. It is located in the modern business and residential quarter, La éfense, The ôme des Invalides and is numbered among the socalled Grands Traveaux initiated and completed during the presidency of François Mitterand (see extra info, page 172) The Eiffel Tower (Tour Eiffel) is not only the most famous symbol of the French capital but is also widely regarded as the symbol of France itself. Over 1000 feet (325 m) tall, it was erected between 1887 and 1889 for the World Exhibition to mark the centenary of the French Revolution. The plans of the vast structure were greets by howls of protest from artistic and intellectual circles. The tower was industrial, useless and ugly : these were the typical complaints of its critics. On the other hand, its pro- The rc de Triomphe du Carrousel, rc de Triomphe and Grande rche Small, larger and more modern brothers

10 long the Seine By the Eiffel Tower to be the world s highest architectural structure until 1930 was meant to have been demolished 20 years after its construction. However, at the beginning of the 20 th century, its height made the tower invaluable for establishing the first-ever transatlantic radio link, and its future was thus secured. Paris The city of love...and of music The Main Sights of Paris La Tour Eiffel TECHNICL MSTERPIECE Named after its designer, the genial architect Gustave Eiffel, Paris tallest tower was built in the Parc de Champs de Mars close to the Seine. bout 300 workers required just 22 months to create what was then the highest architectural structure ever raised by mankind. To achieve this feat, two apparently insoluble problems had to be tackled; first, the unsuitability of the soft, damp site on which it was to stand, and second, the prevailing wind pressure causing the structure to sway by as much as 4 to 6 inches (10 15 cm) at its summit. The filigree structure made up of more than 15,000 prefabricated iron parts required 2.5 million rivets to hold it together. Staircases and elevators take visitors up to the three viewing platforms located 189, 377 and 898 feet (57, 115 and 274 m) above ground level. When visibility is good, the panoramic view from the highest of these is truly memorable. The Eiffel Tower also contains a museum dealing with the history of the tower itself, a post office and a restaurant. tagonists praised it for outstripping the Cheops Pyramid and for representing a marvel of technology, while its use of prefabricated elements was seen by some as an absolute innovation. Even when it was completed, the tide of criticism did not abate entirely, so that it became fashionable to say that the best thing about the view from the Eiffel Tower was that you could not see the tower itself. Originally, what turned out Perfume is like love. LITTLE is never enough. (ESTée Lauder) ior, Chanel, Lacoste, Yves Saint Laurent just a few of the long list of names of those who have made Parisian perfumes and fashion proverbial throughout the world. It was in 1857 that the Englishman, Charles Frederick Worth, established the first great fashion house in Paris and had the idea of using living models to display his prohibitively expensive outfits. The idea of haute couture was thus born, and the 20 th century saw Paris maintain its supremacy in this field thanks to fashion designers like Coco Chanel. She revolutionized female fashion, being the first to design the little black dress in the Twenties, while her perfume, Chanel No. 5, became an instant classic. Perhaps the most lastingly influential innovation of the great fashion designer, Yves Saint Laurent, was the trouser suit for women, which he introduced in 1967 and which allowed its wearers to enjoy comfort and practicality without necessarily sacrificing anything in terms of elegance and femininity.

11 The Eiffel Tower also offers magnificent views toward the Palais de Chaillot on the other side of the Seine, as well as over the Parc de Champs de Mars and the École Militaire. Not far from the latter, the Hôtel des Invalides was built on the orders of Louis XIV in to serve as a domicile for military veterans whose wounds or age made them unfit for work. In doing this, the Sun King s motives included gratitude and humanity but also embraced more practical considerations relating to keeping the military on his side and thus strengthening his political position. The building complex includes two churches: the military church, Saint Louis des Invalides, and the adjoining Royal Chapel known as the ôme des Invalides. The most famous monument in its crypt is the tomb of Emperor Napoleon I. Montmartre Former rtists Quarter Nothing more than a village on the outskirts of the French capital until 1857, Montmartre has since become one of the mostvisited attractions of Paris. The Romans built a temple on its elevated site, while the hilltop was the site of a large Benedictine The Place du Tertre Where numerous street artists show off their talents abbey during the Middle ges. Nonetheless, it was only toward the end of the 19 th century that the 426-foot-high (130 m) hill of Montmartre (Butte Montmartre) attained international fame when artists like Toulouse-Lautrec, Cézanne, Gauguin, van Gogh, Picasso and others took advantage of the cheap rents to have their studios here. The area itself inspired a number of important works including Vegetable Garden on Montmartre by van Gogh, Boulevard Mont- Montmartre Hill of the MRTyrs? Montmartre martre by Pissarro and Moulin Rouge by Toulouse-Lautrec. great deal has changed since those days. fter the First World War, many artists moved over to the Montparnasse Quarter, and houses were built where there had once been gardens. Yet the unique atmosphere and charm of the quarter have been retained right up to the present day, and it is still a joy to visit its lovely squares like the Place du Tertre, its narrow, crooked The origin of the name of the highest hill in Paris has yet to be established beyond doubt. Bishop ionysius and his two companions were sent by the Pope to convert the Parisians, but the governor of the city ordered that the first bishop of Paris should be beheaded. ll three missionaries were then executed in front of a statue of the Roman god, Mercury. Legend has it that the body of ionysius promptly stood up, picked up his severed head and then walked 2000 paces uphill from the saint s place of martyrdom. Thereafter, the hill was called the Mont des Martyrs, which eventually became shortened to Montmartre. Who was Napoleon BoNPRTE? n unscrupulous warmonger, a devoted husband or a political visionary? Historians continue to puzzle and dispute about the character and achievements of the Corsican upstart who was born in However, there are a few anecdotes and characteristics that may be the key to understanding his motives and personality a little better: for example, he was a non-smoker, despised alcohol, ate rapidly and indifferently in contrast to most Frenchmen and got up very early in the morning. Four hours sleep a day for men, five hours for women and six hours for fatheads, he is said to have remarked. This dictum casts light on his attitudes toward the fairer sex he absolutely loathed intelligent women, the only exception being his wife, Joséphine de Beauharnais, whom he loved passionately and only divorced because she was unable to provide him with an heir. The Basilica of Sacré-Cœur With its 367-foot-high (112 m) dome

12 The Moulin Rouge t night Pont Neuf The oldest bridge in Paris lanes, its two windmills, the only vineyard in Paris and, of course you can hardly miss it the Basilica of Sacré-Cœur. Toward the bottom of the hill on Place Blanche White Square gets its name from the color of the plaster of Paris that was once transported through here from nearby quarries one finds the notorious Moulin Rouge. Originally a nightclub, this was made famous by the posters of Toulouse-Lautrec. The Moulin Rouge with its red windmill sails has been a popular subject of films and literature as well as a source of much music. lmost every evening of the year, the well-known variety show here includes a traditional chorus line of dancers along with stunning conjuring tricks and more modern features like computer-controlled light effects. peaceful retreat The Medici Fountain in the Jardin du Luxembourg Les Halles shopper s paradise and rendezvous for young and old In Fauchon (Place de la Madeleine), The department store for millionaires Métro Paris The Parisian Métro was first opened for the World Exhibition of It is not only one of the oldest subway systems in the world (London 1863, New York 1904) but, with a total length of about 133 miles (214 km), is also one of the largest. The entrances to several stations are in the very decorative rt Nouveau style and are among the most typical features of the city. The Stravinsky Fountain By Niki de Saint Phalle and Jean Tinguely The favorite haunt Of Hemingway, Sartre and de Beauvoir

13 Versailles The Palace of Versailles, the most-visited castle in France, is located about 12 miles (20 km) from the center of Paris. The Palace of Versailles Louis XIV was just 5 years old when his father died, and the government of France was placed in the hands of Cardinal Mazarin until the king reached the age of 18 years. Louis never really felt at home in the Louvre at that time the royal residence and seat of government and so, on assuming power, he decided to expand the small hunting lodge erected by his father in Versailles to fit his own purposes and schemes. The scope of the monarch s project could hardly have been more grandiose: the cream of the country s artistic community and its finest craftsmen were summoned to Versailles from 1661 onward. t times, as many as 30,000 people were involved in the construction and decoration of the palace and its vast gardens under the direction of the chief architect, François Mansart and his protégés Hardouin-Mansart and Le Vaut, the interior designer, Le Brun, and the landscape architect and head gardener, Le Nôtre. construction period of just 21 years was required to complete what was one of the largest royal palaces in Europe with over 1300 rooms. One of the most splendid of these is the Hall of Mirrors (Galerie des Glaces), which is 240 feet long and 39 feet high. Many of the other halls and chambers are sumptuously decorated using every imaginable type of ornament: stone sculptures, colored marble, wood carvings, silvered and gilded furniture, velvet and silk the palace is truly the apotheosis of French castle architecture. Wherever one looks, inside and outside, the glorification of Louis XIV is everywhere apparent. L état c est moi! (I am the state!) this famous utterance of the Sun King is given architectural form in Versailles. Even before the completion of the palace itself, the Gardens with an area of over 1730 acres were designed to reflect and emphasize the power and magnificence of the king. geometric network of paths and ornamental flowerbeds, countless statues, viewing points, pavilions continue continue continue and private retreats and, above all, the complex and spectacular ensemble of fountains were unprecedented at the time and are hardly less stunning today. To ensure an adequate water supply for the fountains and the Grand Canal (which was used by gondolas), water had to be pumped here from the Seine several miles away. For this purpose, part of the river had to be rerouted, so that pumps and waterwheels could more easily overcome the height difference. Your cruise continues along the Moselle? If so, for more information, turn to page 140 Your cruise continues along the Saône/ Rhône? If so, for more information, turn to page 212 Your cruise continues along the Seine? If so, for more information, turn to page 180 Versailles The Palace and the gardens