TRUJILLO. Trujillo: Where two worlds meet. And Its Parador

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1 Trujillo: Where two worlds meet TRUJILLO And Its Parador "Trujillo hove into view. The bulk of its towers and ruins sat silhouetted against the sky... Trujillo is a comfortable, bright, and open town which has been developed with care; it is peaceful and exudes a sense of well-being reminiscent of noble peasantry." T Miguel de Unamuno. A Journey through Spain and Portugal rujillo is still just as Unamuno described it, a meeting place for races and cultures. Built on a ridge which the Romans called "Fox's Head," it overlooks the plain stretching between the Tagus and Guadiana Rivers. The region is poor in natural resources but rich in history, and the town sits proudly atop a striking beautiful granite outcrop. As the saying goes: "If you travel to Trujillo, along whatever road you approach, you will find a league of rocky crags." There is little concrete evidence of its origins, but what we do know is that there was a prehistoric settlement here (six centuries before the Christian era) that formed the basis of the Roman settlement of Turgalium. The local subsistence economy was based on agriculture and livestock for centuries, until the Arabs finally managed to turn it into the fortress town we see today. It became a place of warriors and the court, and expanded rapidly under the rule of the Arab Taifa kingdoms. The Arabs spent five centuries in Trujillo ( ). In addition to numerous cultural contributions, the Arab period also gave Trujillo its town walls and castle. In 1232 the town was finally "converted" to Christianity by King Fernando III, known as "the Saint." This conversion came as a result of both considerable human effort - on the part of the military orders (the Knights of Alcántara and Templar, among others) - and divine intervention. Legend has it that the occupation was only made possible by the miraculous intervention of the Holy Virgin Mary. The grateful conquerors made her the patron saint of the town and included her image in the town's coat of arms. Trujillo then began a period of prosperity, fomented by kings who encouraged resettlement in the area by granting tax exemptions, trading privileges, and other incentives commonly used at the time for the needs of governing and unifying. These privileges and rights formed the basis of both political and economic power. It was not until the reign of Don Alfonso X, known as the Wise King, that the town was granted a charter. From then on, the population was divided between the noblemen who were exempt from taxation and their tax-paying neighbors. However, Trujillo was not actually brought out of its medieval adolescence and into adulthood until the mid-15th century (around 1430), when Don Álvaro de Luna, the first Duke of Trujillo, made an official request to Don Juan II of Castile that it be granted city status. This request was granted: "because of the good and loyal services rendered, both past and present... it is thus my will that from this point onwards it be considered a city with the full rights and privileges of the same..." TRUJILLO AND ITS PARADOR 1

2 The Catholic Monarchs were also illustrious protectors of Trujillo. They spent long periods living here until the harsh winter of 1516, when death took King Ferdinand as he traveled to Guadalupe. Carlos V also rewarded Trujillo's loyalty to the crown (perhaps seeking a suitable spot for his retirement) and granted it free market status. Thus, Trujillo has made its way through history in close contact with the monarchy and enjoyed numerous privileges granted by monarchs such as Felipe II and Felipe IV, who granted the city the privilege of minting currency for Extremadura. Perhaps the most significant characteristic of Trujillo is that it is the place "where two worlds meet." From here departed such notable and legendary inhabitants (some 750 according to sources) as Pizarro, who conquered Peru; Orellana, who discovered the Amazon; and García de Paredes, who founded the town of Trujillo in Venezuela. So widespread and so intense was the thirst for conquest that the name Trujillo can still be found throughout South America in cities in Venezuela, Peru, Puerto Rico, Chile, and Colombia. The Parador de Santa Clara: A place of peace "The town is large and has the appearance of a fortress. Its walls are solidly built. There are well-stocked bazaars; its inhabitants, both horsemen and princes, make frequent incursions into Christian territory. They normally survive on pillage and trickery." O n one of the town's loveliest and most evocative small squares we find the Santa Clara Convent, home to the Parador de Turismo. The surrounding streets are steeped in history, and bathed in a play of shadows and light which harmonizes perfectly with the irregular geometric shapes. The building is simple yet impressive, laid out as a double passageway around a square cloister where semi-circular arches sit atop square pillars. The cloister's courtyard contains three Renaissancestyle fountains, with lintelled corridors with Tuscan columns above. The convent was inhabited by nuns of the religious order of the Immaculate Conception from 1533 until it became a Parador in This Order was founded by Saint Beatriz de Silva Menese, a very close friend of Queen Isabella, the Catholic. The founder's beauty was such that of her it was written that "her beautiful soul was lit by divine grace, and her body was a fitting vessel for such a rich pearl. The beauty of her face overwhelmed one with its fascinating charms." It appears that her beauty brought her considerable problems with Isabel, the daughter of the King of Portugal, who was later to marry Juan II of Castile. So old is the building that now houses the Parador El Idrisi. An Arab Traveler of the 14th Century. that it has been coveted by both kings and nobles over the course of its long existence, and has been an important site for the signing of sentences, privileges, and donations. From the porch of the Gothic Church of San Clemente, an old man who served as caretaker used to tell stories of the goings on in the convent: "...and nuns would appear by the belfry and let off rockets they had not easily obtained, given their impecunious existence, on the feast day of the Immaculate Conception. They gave thanks for the gift of life, completely forgetting about their lack of food." Although the nuns wear the habits of the order of the Immaculate Conception, and live by its rules, in Trujillo the building is often referred to as Santa Clara Convent. The name honors one of its founders, Catalina of Santa Clara, who has long been considered a saint. Leonor Rol, wife of Pedro Calderón and abbess of the convent, is buried under the main choir. She was greatly loved and respected in Trujillo. Also buried in the choir area is Francisca Mercado Pizarro, daughter of Commander Hernando Pizarro and Isabel Mercado, who was a nun here. Today the Parador displays relics and pieces of a history which is not so remote as to have fallen into the realm of legend. The obligatory small wooden revolving turntable which for centuries served as the only means of communication between the nuns and the outside world can still be seen in the entryway. And inside we discover the sober austerity of granite carved into vaults, doorways, windows, and staircases that surround, as if to protect, the double porticoed cloister built in the style of Juan de Herrera. 2 TRUJILLO AND ITS PARADOR

3 Above lies the Plateresque belfry from which so many calls to prayer and assembly have sounded, and which has served as a nesting place for migrating storks. The Parador has long served as a place of solace and rest for the many guests, famous and otherwise, who have stopped here. Whatever the status of a visitor, he or she is always granted the same respect and importance by the people of Trujillo that any visitor to the Parador deserves. The kitchen staff proudly proclaim that "King Juan Carlos absolutely adores our stewed lambs' tails." It is said that when Marsillach came and shot a few scenes for a film in the Parador and surrounding area, and that "he even bought a house in the village." Long before the transition, Don Juan de Borbón stopped over in Trujillo on the way to his adopted home in Estoril. The Parador of the Santa Clara Convent continues to be an appealing and evocative choice for the many people and personalities who choose the Parador for a variety of reasons: Bull-fighters such as the legendary Espartaco, or Palomo Linares himself; politicians such as Bono and others from Madrid and the surrounding autonomous regions; great artists such as Kraus or Caballé, to mention but a few, all have chosen to spend some time amongst the town's squares and narrow streets. A walk to conquest Palace of the Marquises of Piedras Albas. Palace of the Dukes of San Carlos. Church of San Martín. Palace of the Marquises of the Conquista. Palace of Orellana Pizarro. Casa de la Cadena. ("House of the Chain") Palace of the Chaves Sotomayor family. Old Town Hall. Church of Santiago. Pizarro's House and Museum, and other palaces and convents in the town. Church of Santa María la Mayor The Art of Being, the Art of Doing, and the Art of Eating T here is no cheating, but there is a trick to it." This is the only trade secret to which the chefs of Trujillo confess. Even a casual visitor would add that lavish portions are another characteristic. Indeed, it would be difficult to cheat, for nature so generously offers a bountiful variety of resources: fruits and vegetables, a selection of unusual game meat, and river delicacies. But there is a trick to their success, and it lies in the preparation of the dishes and the constant search for old recipes to discover and recreate, inspired by the ingredients provided by nature. There are dishes for any table, from the exotic and refined to the abundant and robust. The oh-so-sweet desserts betray the influence of Castile. Dishes from Leon are mainly soups and stews. Lenten choices originate in monasteries and convents. It is definitely not possible to enjoy the cuisine of Trujillo properly if you are in a hurry, but it should be enjoyed in abundance if you wish to get a sufficient and representative sampling. It may be necessary to return one day, to stop again at the Parador and experience Trujillo. The visitor may also want to come back for any of the many arts and crafts, or just to stroll through the town and, from time to time, stop for a relaxed bite to eat. All one need do is ask, and almost anywhere you will find a wealth of dishes not mentioned in any guide book. Look for the Bacalao Monacal, a local cod recipe from the religious orders; frite de cordero, a lamb dish; or migas, the traditional fried breadcrumbs, here served with bacon and chorizo sausage. This last dish was a very common lunchtime meal until TRUJILLO AND ITS PARADOR 3

4 quite recently. Morcilla Patatera, a black pudding made with potato, is a musttry. The recipe dates back to when the potato was first brought from the Americas by the local conquistadors. The locals consider some of the area's other sausages "the best in the world". Wild mushrooms - when available, especially in the autumn - can be a pleasure fit for cherubim, with hundreds and hundreds of varieties. It is difficult to recommend specific dishes from amongst the many local specialties, and the many more offered by the Parador. Nevertheless, it seems appropriate to name some of the most typical and exclusive dishes served here: Tomato Soup in the Extremaduran Style, with the surprising and unusual flavor of the figs which accompany it. Garrapatos Soup, made from fresh green beans, when in season. " The Andalusian version has nothing on our Ajoblanco white garlic soup, because we have our own special recipe," the chef rightly boasts. Truffles, with Cod in a Saffron Sauce. Pond Frogs in Sauce. A very special Roast Lamb. Meatballs made from river fish. Nor should we forget desserts such as técula mécula and muégado, most of them made with honey from the Villuercas-Ibores region. Nature, History, Culture, and Handicrafts D rujillo is the starting point for a wide variety of excursions. Monfragorum, now Monfragüe Park. Great effort has been made both within Spain and abroad to protect this area. After ecological organizations took the initiative, with the support of regional institutions, the park was named a Nature Reserve Guadalupe is both Extremadura's main sanctuary and a very beautiful and authentic traditional village which will delight lovers of handicrafts, particularly copper and brassware. The two most important towns in Upper Extremadura are Cáceres and Plasencia, which must be visited to understand the local people. Plasencia is particularly well-known for the grandeur of its countryside as it extends along the banks of the Jerte River, and for a delicious fruit liqueur well worthy of the gods. Monfragüe Nature Reserve The park can be reached via Villareal de San Carlos and is near the Salto del Gitano and Castillo viewpoints. There are three different routes through the accessible areas of the park. Some 200 species of wildlife live in its 20,000 hectares, including black vultures, Iberian imperial eagles, black storks, lynxes, and wild cats. The rivers contain 15 fish species, two types of freshwater turtle and some mammals, including otters. Apart from the wildlife, the Park also has extremely varied flora, undoubtedly the support system for this unique natural space. Guadalupe Trujillo, Logrosán, Cañamero, Guadalupe Guadalupe, Logrosán and Cañamero are part of the Las Virruecas region and are populated by dense woodlands. Although bears have not populated this rugged area for several years, there are still roe and other deer, wild boars, and lynxes. Lograsán is located in a scrubland and offers abundant hunting. It also has traditional handicrafts such as blankets, saddle-bags, and lace. Cañamero is known for its unusual yet excellent wines. Last but not least, there is Guadalupe, with its narrow cobbled streets and houses set atop wooden colonnades opening onto quiet squares with fountains and carefully tended plants. The Monastery, declared a World Heritage Site in 1993, is a harmonious blend of art and history. Cáceres The main monument here is the town itself, with its late-medieval architecture. It was declared a World Heritage Site by the UNESCO in A walk through the old quarter will transport the visitor back in time. Plasencia and Valle del Jerte Plasencia is the heart of northern Extremadura. Its Gothic Cathedral is the most important religious monument in the autono- 4 TRUJILLO AND ITS PARADOR

5 mous region. There are also several Renaissance palaces, lending the town an air of grandeur. A road along the river leads from Plasencia to the villages of Cabezuela del Valle and Jerte. These valleys frequently fill with lazy snow and seem to await the flowering of the "million cherry trees" along the lower slopes of the hills, blending up into the leafy oaks covering the upper slopes. Buildings in Cabezuela del Valle are typically wood, adobe, and granite, supported by arcades resting on wooden bases and stonework columns. The Jewish Quarter in Jerte is a must-see. Infiernos Gorge is a place of extraordinary beauty. Parador de Trujillo C/ Santa Beatriz de Silva, Trujillo (Cáceres) Tel.: Fax: trujillo@parador.es Central de Reservas Requena, Madrid (España) Tel.: Fax: / reservas@parador.es wap.parador.es/wap/ Textos: Miguel García Sánchez Dibujos: Fernando Aznar TRUJILLO AND ITS PARADOR 5