ZAFRA. Seville the Small: Zafra the Great. And Its Parador

Transcription

1 Seville the Small: Zafra the Great ZAFRA And Its Parador There is a place in Spain known as Zafra They call it an ancient land, Powerful in arms, and Of bountiful land... Roman Text V ery little is known of the origins of Zafra, although much is imagined. What is known is that the region was inhabited by Lusitanians and Vettones in pre-roman times, peoples who had a communal economy. There is some evidence that this economy was largely based on cattle and goat and sheep herding. They also had horses for war and proved rebellious and difficult to conquer, as the Romans soon found out when they invaded the peninsula. Legend has it that the Vettones raised a breed of very fast horses, said to be sired by the Zephyr wind. Human sacrifices were common, at least amongst the Lusitanians, and were linked to rituals of divination. The historian Appian wrote that at the funeral of Viriato, who had fought here against the Romans, many victims were sacrificed, some of them possibly human. The town had its beginnings thanks to its strategic position along the Via de la Plata, the most important road in the west of Roman Hispania. This route would serve to transport both cultures and goods from present-day Huelva up to Gijón. But Zafra truly came into its own towards the end of the Arab empire under the taifa kingdoms (11th century). Ancient Sjara arose out of the defensive needs between the kingdoms of Seville and Badajoz. A primitive castle was built at this time in the Castellar Mountains, its majestic ramparts standing alone and dominating the plain. A famous Arab geographer, Mohamed Al-Quisí, wrote in the 13th century that Zafra still has its walls and the remains of its palaces. It is inhabited by only a few individuals and their families, although it is a sizeable town The fortress town remained under Muslim rule for almost two centuries and would suffer frequent political upheavals and wars over the following centuries. After an early fleeting conquest by King Alfonso IX of Leon, it fell to the Arab taifas again, and was in Muslim hands until Fernando III finally won it back for Christendom in the mid-13th century. He them set about repopulating the town. Chronicles of the time show that the Muslims and Christians lived ZAFRA AND ITS PARADOR 1

2 together in peace, preserving and extending their trade and craft traditions, as well as their habits and customs. Testimony of this are the valuable examples of Mudejar and Morisco buildings which can still be seen today. The town would experience even more anxiety as a result of the political maneuvering of various sovereigns, who used it more than once as payment to noble armies of the Reconquest in return for favors in war. Zafra finally found permanent lords and masters in the early 15th century at the hands of the Suárez de Figueroa family of Galicia. They were first lords, then counts, and were finally granted the title of Dukes of Feria. One of the Figueroa family, Lorenzo, who was baptized the Magnificent by the local people, was responsible for the town s lasting major cultural, commercial, religious, and urban expansion and development. Lorenzo Suárez de Figueroa built the town walls. The fortified palace that is today home to the Parador served as the home for his court. He founded the Hospital of Santiago and completed the Convent of Santa Clara. And so, from the end of the Middle Ages, Zafra became one of Extremadura s most flourishing towns. A Renaissance Palace, Witness to the Reconquest This fortress, built on the orders of the noble knight Lorenzo Suárez de Figueroa, member of the council of our Lord the King,was completed in the year of our Savior Jesus Christ, 1443 Texto de la Época F rom the outside, the building looks more like a military building than a palace. However, the walled enclosure carries the solemn grandeur typical of medieval construction with grace. It is built of slate and brick masonry, presumably by Arab master stone masons, and topped with pyramid-shaped battlements. Impressive towers, nearly twenty-five meters high, stand majestically at the four corners. Four more towers defend the main entrance and sides. Presiding over all is the tower keep, which guards the approach from the east. It is close to thirty meters high and twelve meters in diameter. The numerous coats of arms decorating the hallway of today s main entrance remind visitors that it is the home of the noble and illustrious Suárez de Figueroa family which welcomes them. 2 ZAFRA AND ITS PARADOR

3 The inscription Figueroa y Manuel can be seen under the horseshoe-arch-framed Morisco window with its marble column. This commemorates the union of these two families, creating a noble lineage that would give birth first to counts and eventually to the Dukes of Feria, by the grace of King Felipe II. At about this time, the delicate Renaissance features that can still be seen today were added to the ancient fortress, made possible by family connections between the Lords of Feria and other famous names, such as the Manriquez family, the Garcilaso de la Vega family, and Infante Juan Manuel. And so the ducal court became a gathering place for holy and acclaimed men of letters and mysticism: Saint John of Avila, Gregorio Silvestre, Cristóbal de Mesa, and others. Duke Don Gomes, who had ties to the court of Felipe II, met the architect Herrera as the latter was working on El Escorial. He asked Herrera to carry out some renovations on the medieval castle. The results of this work are the exquisite courtyard and the Renaissance cloister, exceptional delights for visitors pleasure. This renovation opened up what had previously been hermetically sealed walls and let in the light, creating a space for views and customs more in keeping with court than wartime. The visitor will be pleasantly surprised, maybe even perplexed, by the Parador s halls and rooms, such is the artistic wealth which the building has guarded and now displays. The chapel has a Gothic-Mudejar dome set against a blue background and a wooden coffered ceiling. The socalled Golden Room is decorated with the coats of arms of the Dukes of Feria. The room which is today used as the bar has a ceiling in the pure Mudejar style. Many are the pages of history which have been written in this ancient fortress. The palace has borne witness to wars and noble strategies. It is a birthplace and home of arts and literature. Among famous locals we can count Espronceda, who was born in Almendralejo, and Zurburán, from Fuente de Cantos, whose work can be admired on the altarpiece in the Collegiate Church of La Candelaria. Even Hernán Cortés stayed here before departing to conquer and colonize Mexico. A Medieval and Renaissance Market Plaza Grande (Square). The center of the noble area of the town. Plaza Chica (Square). Former marketplace. Law Courts. Neo-classical in style. La Casa Grande. Renaissance style. Collegiate Church of La Candelaria. Magnificent Zurburán paintings. Convent of Santa Clara. Founded by the first Lord of Feria. Church of Santa Marina. Today an exhibition and conference hall. Hospital of Santiago. Founded by the Duke of Feria in Church of El Rosario. Valuable 16th-century Christ statue. Convent of Santa Catalina. Mudejar coffered ceiling. Former Convent of La Cruz. Now the Town Hall ZAFRA AND ITS PARADOR 3

4 A Culinary Mosaic afra s cuisine includes most of Extremadura s dishes, Z blending the tastes and customs that have come down through history with the wide variety of natural products available. But the kitchens of Zafra also contain aromas and flavors from the neighboring areas of Lusitania and Andalusia. The rural traditions of the Mesta (an association of sheep and cattle farmers) are reflected in such humble, yet exquisite, dishes as migas, breadcrumbs fried with pork loin and fatty bacon from Tierra de Barros. This dish is especially good for breakfast. Casseroles, soups, stews and other dishes also reflect the region s rural past and usually include lamb or goat as the main ingredient. Dishes such as Mondongo Blood Sausage, Oxtail, and the modest but sophisticated Chanfaina, made with a surprising combination of liver, lung, heart, and kidneys. Pork, Iberian above all, is an essential element of any table in the Zafra area, at any time of the day. There are modern recipes like Pork Tenderloin Salad, or more traditional offerings such as Zurrapa, made with liver and lard, or Almoraque, an excellent dish made with pork ribs, onions, and peppers. The area is well known for its superb sausages: Spicy Chorizo Sausage, Morcilla and Morcón Sausage; as well as pork loin and belly pork and last but not least, excellent Cured Hams from Fregenal de la Sierra, Montánchez, and Jerez de los Caballeros, and many other places. Tench is also a frequent ingredient in many dishes, as is the wild Along the Routes of Dukes and Knights Templar The Duchy of Feria Route Leaving Zafra and heading towards La Lapa we pass through surprisingly beautiful countryside, particularly in autumn. Scrubland, ilex trees and small farms specializing in rearing Iberian pigs dot the landscape. We reach Salvatierra de Barros, a defensive stronghold of the Suárez de Figueroa family. It has a 13th-century castle (now privately owned), with a central square tower and several round towers. We recommend wandering the town s narrow streets and discovering the small pottery workshops where the clay is still worked in the traditional manner. produce of the meadows: thistle, truffles, asparagus, and an abundance of wild mushrooms, close to a thousand varieties. Game is rich and varied, and is prepared in many different ways: hare, rabbit, partridge, duck, pigeon, wild boar, deer The area s cheeses and wines are also worthy of mention. Wines such as Matanegra and Riberas del Guadiana are universally appreciated, nor should we forget the names Montanchez, Cañamero or Tierra de Barros. Also popular are the excellent liqueurs are made from the region s typical products: acorns, almonds, cherries, currants, etc. For a wonderful end to a lovely meal, sample some of the area s wide range of desserts, mainly Moorish, Jewish or convent in origin. Honey, and especially holm-oak honey, is a common ingredient. The Parador offers an excellent and carefully-prepared selection of many of these local dishes. Although the menu does change according to season, some of the regular dishes featuring on our menus are: Macarraca (a cold soup similar to Gazpacho), Zorongollo (roasted red pepper and tomato salad), toasted bread topped with Salmorejo, and fried truffles. Desserts include Repápalos puff pastry in cinnamon-flavored milk; or Corazones de Obispo, egg yolk and almond sweets made following a secret recipe that is jealously guarded by the nuns of the Santa Clara convent. And to top it all off: Extremaduran Cava (sparkling wine). This may sound surprising, but as the experts say, It s worth trying it before you form an opinion. We continue along the road to La Parra until we reach Feria, the original ancestral home of the Suárez de Figueroa family, where they had a castle built in the 15th century. The tall, solid tower keep stands out immediately. Locals say that up to 22 villages can be seen from this square tower on a clear day. The town center has been designated an area of historic and artistic importance, as its traditional architecture has remained largely unchanged despite the passing of time. The Casa del Monje Dolmen stands nearby. The Santa Cruz festival commemorates the birth of Ana Ponce, Countess of Feria, on May 3, and recreates an atmosphere of pure feudalism. 4 ZAFRA AND ITS PARADOR

5 The Knights Templar Route During medieval times, military orders achieved great power in Extremadura. The Orders of Alcántara and Saint James marked the evolution of the Middle Ages. Others, some founded outside Extremadura, have left a considerable legacy that has served to enter their names on the region s honor roll. The Order of the Knights Templar was one such order. Ten kilometers from Zafra along the N-435 road to Huelva is a turn-off to Burguillos del Cerro, which lies at the foot of a stone castle once the domain of the Knights Templar. The castle has two square and two round towers, all of them crenellated, a parade ground, and underground passages. The road continues to Jerez de los Caballeros, designated an area of historic and artistic importance. The castle and town walls, built by the Knights Templar for defensive purposes, are well preserved. The 18-meter Bloody Tower (Torre Sangrienta) is the castle s main feature. Legend has it that Clemente V ordered the dissolution of the order after a long siege by the royal troops. This was followed by the Torre Sangrienta episode, during which the knights were beheaded and their bodies thrown from the tower. Enrique II later gave the town to the Order of Saint James, which restored the walls and laid out the town as we see it today. Great conquerors were born here: Vasco Nuñez de Balboa, and Hernando de Soto. The castle was built in the 12th century and renovated in Other must-sees include the parish churches of Santa María de la Encarnación, San Bartolomé, San Miguel, and Santa Catalina. It is worth taking advantage of the visit to pick up some of the high quality Iberian pork products that the area is particularly famous for: cured ham, pork loin, and morcón sausage. We continue on to Fregenal de la Sierra. Alfonso X gave the town to the Order of Saint James and subsequently to the Knights Templar, who built the castle in 1283, which they occupied until the order was disbanded. The castle has a large masonry tower and inside was a huge parade ground that is now a bull ring. Some of the walls still stand, along with six square towers and one pentagonal tower. The Church of Santa María, which abuts the fortress, dates to the end of the 13th century. The whole town is a monument, with houses and mansions emblazoned with coats of arms, a lovely main square, and very beautiful parish churches and other buildings. In the Coto Mountains, 6 kilometers from the town, there is an interesting archaeological site with the Celtiberian and Roman remains of the ancient municipium of Nertóbriga Concordia Iulia, dating from the 3rd century. Before you return to Zafra, we recommend visiting the town s small craft workshops for pottery, crochet work, and leather goods. There are many monuments to visit: from the Toriñuelo, Valcavado, and Palomilla Dolmens, to Roman remains such as the mosaics at Pomar Villa and the old bridge over the Ardila River. There are also Arab walls and the Templar fortress (the walled compound had six gates, of which only the main one remains). Parador de Zafra Duques de Feria Pza. Corazón de María, Zafra (Badajoz) Tel.: Fax: zafra@parador.es Reservation Center Requena, Madrid (España) Tel.: Fax: / 58 / reservas@parador.es wap.parador.es/wap/ Texts: Miguel García Sánchez Design: Fernando Aznar ZAFRA AND ITS PARADOR 5