Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. Behind the Scenes

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1 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 345 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Anthony Kay, Attila Bogdan, Bradley Carr, Elena Falzon, Gary Sheppard, Gavin Parnaby, Jean Kelly, John Bower, Marla Van Meter, Matthew Bolton, Michael Lowry, Peter Borowski, Peter Innes, Richard Bradley, Wouter Mitty. WRITER THANKS Peter Dragicevich Researching in Croatia is always a joy but even more so with company so many thanks to Robert Carpenter and Catherine Cole for joining me on the road. Once again I m indebted to Vojko and Marija Dragičević for their wonderful hospitality. Marc Di Duca Big thanks go to the staff at tourist offices the length and breadth of the coast, especially those in Pula, Rab, Rijeka and Zadar; fellow LP writer Anja; Zlatko in Lopar; my wife, Tanya, and sons Taras and Kirill for their company on the trip. Anja Mutić A huge hvala to Lidija Mišćin and Andrea Pisac for their invaluable help and expertise this book wouldn t be the same without you. To Ana Mažuran, who s the perfect companion on my research trips thanks for being hungry at just the right times. A thank you goes to my many friends in Croatia who gave me endless tips. Hvala, mama, for your laughter. Obrigada, Kweli, for being my north star. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, Cover photograph: Sunrise view of the Old Town in Dubrovnik, Doug Pearson/AWL

2 346 BEHIND THE SCENES THIS BOOK This 9th edition of Lonely Planet s Croatia guidebook was researched and written by Peter Dragicevich, Marc Di Duca and Anja Mutić. The previous two editions were written by Peter Dragicevich, Anja Mutić and Vesna Maric. This guidebook was produced by the following: Destination Editor Anna Tyler Product Editor Grace Dobell Senior Cartographer Anthony Phelan Book Designer Wendy Wright Assisting Editors Nigel Chin, Victoria Harrison, Kate James, Kellie Langdon, Anne Mulvaney, Gabrielle Stefanos Cover Researcher Naomi Parker Thanks to Cheree Broughton, Neill Coen, Daniel Corbett, Andi Jones, Lauren Keith, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Kirsten Rawlings, Ellie Simpson, Angela Tinson

3 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 347 Index A accommodation 18, 79, 126, , 399, see also individual locations activities 22-5, 30-5, see also individual locations adventure parks 18 air travel 17, animals 321-2, see also individual species apartment rentals 59 archaeological & historic sites Dugi Otok 188 Momjan 124 Polače 278 Poreč 118 Pula 102, 103 Rab Town 166 Salona 221 Split 202-3, Zadar 183 architecture area codes 17, 333 art galleries, see museums & galleries arts 85, ATMs 332 B Badija Island 283 Bale 111 Baranja 94-6 Baška basketball 311 bathrooms 334 Batina 94 beaches 230 Ada 97 Banj 234 Banje Beach 261 Bellevue Beach 261 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Bili Rat 234 Buba beach 226 Čikat 154 Copacabana Beach 261 Dubovica 241 Hawaii Beach 103 Kolombarica Beach 108 Krivica 156 Krka 161 Lapad 261 Livačina Beach 170 Medena Beach 220 Mekićevica 241 Milna 241 Mlini beach 246 Nugal 226, 231 Okrug Gornji 220 Paradise Beach 170 Prapratno 279 Pržina 287 Punta Rata 225 Sahara Beach 170 Srbrena 249 Stiniva 249 Sunčana Uvala 154 Šunj 276 Tri Mosta 234 Trstenica 280 Vela Luka 234 Vis 249 Vlačica Vrilo 234 Zaglav 249 Zaraće 241 Zlatni Rat 236 Zrće Beach 181 bears 177 beer 316 Beli 150 Beram 132 bicycle travel, see cycling Bilje 93 Biokovo Nature Park 232 birdwatching 322 Biševo 252 Blue Grotto 14, 252, 14 Blue World Institute of Marine Research & Conservation 158 boat travel boat trips Bol 236 Dubrovnik 265 Kopački Rit Nature Park 93 Pula 103 Rijeka 139 Rovinj Sali 189 Split 211 Supetar 235 Vukovar 97 Bol 13, 236-9, 13 books 290, border crossings 336 Božava 189 Brač Island Brela Brijuni Islands budget 17 bus travel travel to/from Croatia 336 travel within Croatia 337 business hours 17, 332 Buzet C cable cars camping 179, 152, Cape Kamenjak 13, 108-9, 13 car travel 17, 127, 337-8, 343 castles Kamerlengo Castle 220 Kaštela 219 Morosini-Grimani Castle 133 Mirabela Fortress Nehaj Castle 164 Pazin 132 Trakošćan Castle 80 Trsat Castle 139 Veliki Tabor Castle 15, 80, 15 cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals caves 320 Barać s Caves 174 Baredine Cave 120 Blue Grotto 14, 252, 14 Dragon s Cave 237 Grabovača Cave Park 177 Green Grotto 252 Manita Peć 176 Pazin Chasm Tito s Cave 250 Veternica Cave 76 Cavtat cell phones 16, 333 Central Dalmatia 40, , accommodation 199 climate 199 food 199 highlights travel seasons 199 Cest is D Best 23 children, travel with 36-7, 56 churches & cathedrals 318 Cathedral of St Domnius 206 Church of St Euphemia 113 Euphrasian Basilica 118 St James Cathedral 195 St Lawrence s Cathedral 220 St Mark s Cathedral 284 cinema 290 climate 16, see also individual locations climate change 335 coastal towns coffee 10, 63 cooking courses 312 credit cards 332 Cres Island 14, , 14 Cres Town Crikvenica 137 Croat people

4 348 INDEX C-K Crveni Otok 117 culture 290-1, currency 16, 332 customs regulations 330 cycling 32, 124, 336 Buzet 128 Cape Kamenjak 108 Kvarner 146 Lastovo Island 287 Mali Lošinj 154 Mljet National Park 278 Poreč 120 Pula 103 Rovinj 113 Zagreb 56 D dance 326 Ðakovo 88 Delnice 143 Dingač 280 Diocletian s Palace 202-3, 205-6, 203, 12 disabilities, travellers with 334 discount cards 55, 260, 330 diving & snorkelling 32, 34, 230 Beli 150 Bol 236 Cres Town 151 Dubrovnik 262 Hvar Town 242 Krk Town 160 Mali Lošinj Mljet National Park 278 Poreč 120 Pula 103 Rab Town 167 Rovinj 114 Sali 189 Supetar 235 Dol 233 dolphins 158 Donji Humac 233 drinks , 341, see also wine driving, see car travel Dubovica 241 Dubrovnik 9, , 258, 262-3, 5, 8-9, accommodation 265 activities drinking & entertainment Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 festivals & events 265 food history 255-6, 261 itineraries 255 shopping sights tourist information 272 travel to/from travel within 273 Dugi Otok E economy Elafiti Islands 276 electricity 330 emergencies 17, 342 environment etiquette events 22-5 exchange rates 17 F ferries festivals 22-5, see also individual locations films 290, 324 folk dances 326 folk music food 10, 18, 122, , 340, 2, 20 football forts Dubrovnik 256 Korčula Town 283 G galleries, see museums & galleries Game of Thrones 18, 269 gardens, see parks & gardens gay travellers 66, Gospić 177 Grabovac 175 Gračišće 133 griffon vultures 164 Grohote 224 Grožnjan H health 331 hiking 31-2 Biokovo Nature Park 232 Gračišće 133 Mali Lošinj 154 Mt Medvednica 76 Orebić 280 Poreč 120 Rab Town 167 Samobor 73 historic sites, see archaeological & historic sites history Catholicism Homeland War 304 Illyrians 292 Napoleon 298 Ottomans Partisans 302 Ragusa 297 Roman rule 293-4, 318 Slavs 294 Tito 109, 301, 302 Venetian rule 296 WWI WWII Yugoslavia 299, Hlebine 85 holidays 333 horseback riding 93, 177 hostels 329 hot springs 79 Hum 131 Hum mountain 250 Hvar Island 11, Hvar Town 11, , 241, 242, 11 I Ilok 98 Ilovik 155 immigration 335 Inland Croatia 38, 72-98, 74-5 accommodation 72 climate 72 food 72 highlights 74-5 travel seasons 72 INmusic Festival 23 insurance 331, 338 internet access 331 internet resources 17 Istarske Toplice 129 Istria 10, 39, , 100, 10 accommodation 99 climate 99 food 99, 108 highlights 100 travel seasons 99 itineraries 26-9, 46, 255, 26-9 J Jelsa Jerolim 246 Jezerce K Karanac 94-6 karst caves 320 Kastav 145 Kaštela 219 kayaking 34 Dubrovnik 261 Komiža 252 Korčula Town 285 Makarska 226 Rovinj Split 209, 210 Klanjec 78 klapa song 214 Klis 206 Knin 193 Kolan 181 Koločep 276 Komiža Konavle Kopačevo 94 Kopački Rit Nature Park 14, 18, 93-4, 14 Korčula Island Korčula Town 12, 282-7, 284, 12 Kornati Island Košljun 161 Kostelić, Janica 311 Kotli 131 Krapina Krapinske Toplice 78-9 Krapje 86 Krivica 156 Krk Island Krk Town Krka National Park 13, 192-3, 13, 33 Krleža, Miroslav 323 Kumrovec 77 Kuterevo 177 Kutjevo 95 Kvarner 39, , 137 accommodation 136 climate 136 food 136 highlights 137 travel seasons 136 L Labin landmines 333 language 16, 338,

5 349 Lastovo Island legal matters 331 LGBT travellers 66, Lika Limska Draga Fjord literature Lokrum 260 Lonjsko Polje Nature Park 86 Lopar 170 Lopud 276 Lošinj Island Loznati 151 Lozovac 192 Lubenice 152 Lumbarda 287 M Makarska 226-7, 232 Makarska Riviera Mala Učka 148 Mali Lošinj Mali Ston 279 Malinska maps Marija Bistrica 78 Marinkovac 246 Maškin 117 Maslinica 224 Mathias Sandorf 132 measures 330 medical services 331 Međimurje 85-7 Medvednica Nature Park 76-7 Mekićevica 241 Milna (Brač Island) 233 Milna (Hvar Island) 241 Mljet 10, 276-9, 10 Mljet National Park mobile phones 16, 333 Momjan 124 money 16, 17, 332 Montenegro 274 monuments Sea Organ 183 Sun Salutation 185, 15 Moreška sword dance 286 Mostar 274 motorcycle travel Motovun Motovun Film Festival 24 Mt Medvednica 76-7 Mukinje Murter Island 191 museums & galleries 47 Archaeological Museum (Split) 207 Croatian Museum of Tourism 145 Kumrovec Staro Selo Museum 77 Lauba 55 Meštrović Gallery 208 Museum of Broken Relationships 52 Museum of Contemporary Art Museum of the Krapina Neanderthal 80-1 Vučedol Culture Museum 18, 96 War Photo Limited 257 music 214, Mužilovčica 86 N national parks Kornati National Park 190 Krka National Park 13, 192-3, 13, 33 Mljet National Park Paklenica National Park Plitvice Lakes National Park 9, 173-6, 2, 9, 20 Risnjak National Park 143 nature parks Biokovo Nature Park 232 Kopački Rit Nature Park 14, 18, 93-4, 14 Lonjsko Polje Nature Park 86 Medvednica Nature Park 76-7 Učka Nature Park 148 naturism 107 Nerezine newspapers 330 Northern Dalmatia 39, , 172 accommodation 171 climate 171 food 171 highlights 172 travel seasons 171 Novalja Novigrad 122 O Obonjan Island 18, 195 Okuklje 278 Omiš Opatija opening hours 17, 332 Orebić Osijek 88-92, 90 Osor 153 outdoor activities 30-5 P Pag cheese 314 Pag Island , 229 Pag Town painting Pakleni Islands 246 Paklenica National Park palaces Diocletian s Palace 202-3, 205-6, 203, 12 Rector s Palace 259 Palmižana 246 paragliding Buzet 128 Motovun 126 Rijeka 139 Samobor 73 parks & gardens Komrčar Park 166 Maksimir Park 54-5 Punta Corrente Forest Park 113 Trsteno Arboretum 275 Parun, Vesna 323 passports 335 Pazin Pelješac Peninsula Perušić 177 phonecards photography 333 picigin 207 Piškera 190 planning 42, see also individual regions activities 30-5 budgeting 17 calendar of events 22 children, travel with 36-7 Croatia basics Croatia s regions internet resources 17 itineraries 26-9, 26-9 repeat visitors 18 travel seasons 16, 22-5 plants 322 playwrights 323 Plitvice Lakes National Park 9, 173-6, 2, 9, 20 Polače politics Polo, Marco 283 population 291 Poreč , 119 postal services 333 Postup 280 Premantura Peninsula 108 Primošten private accommodation public holidays 333 Pučišća 233 Pula 101-8, 104 accommodation activities 103 drinking & nightlife 106 entertainment 107 festivals & events 103 food history 101 sights tourist information tours 103 travel to/from 108 Punat Punta Bjanca 188 R Rab Island Rab Town , 168 Rabac radio 330 rafting 35, 224 rakija 315 Rakovica 175 raptors 196 religion 291, Rijeka , 140 accommodation activities 139 drinking & entertainment festivals & events 141 food 142 history 138 shopping 143 sights tourist information 143 travel to/from travel within 144 Rijeka Carnival 22 Risnjak National Park 143 road distances 337 road rules 338 Roč rock climbing 35, 34 Baška 162 Paklenica National Park 176 Rovinj 113 Rogač 224 Rogoznica 198 INDEX L- R

6 350 INDEX R-Z Roški Slap 192 Rovinj , 112, 3, 229 ruins, see archaeological & historic sites S safety 333 sailing, see boat trips Sali Salona 221 Samobor 73-6 Saplunara sculpture Selište Drežničko 175 Senj sheep 149 Šibenik 193-7, 194 Šibenik-Knin Region Siege of Vukovar 96 Šipan 276 skiing 35, 76-7, 311 Skradin 192 Skradinski Buk 192 Škrip 233 Slavonia Sljeme 78-9 Smiljan 177 smoking 330 snorkelling, see diving & snorkelling soccer Solin 221 Šolta Island 224 Southern Dalmatia 40, , 254 accommodation 253 climate 253 food 253 highlights 254 travel seasons 253 Sovinjsko Polje 129 Špancirfest 24, 25 Split 12, , 203, 204-5, 208-9, 12 accommodation activities 209 drinking & nightlife entertainment 216 festivals & events 211 food history 202 shopping 216 sights tourist information tours travel to/from travel within sport Stara Baška 161 Stari Grad Starigrad-Paklenica 177 street names 333 Stomorska 224 Ston 279 Stončica 251 Sumartin 233 Supetar Susak 155 Sveta Katarina 117 Sveti Andrija 117 Sveti Jure 233 Sveti Klement 246 Sveti Nikola 242 Svetvinčenat swimming 30-1 sword dance 286 T taxes 332 Telašćica Bay 190 telephone services 16, tennis 311 time 334, 342 tipping 332 Tisno Tito 109, 301, 302 toilets 334 tourism tourist information 334 tours, see boat tours. walking tours train travel 336, 338, travel to/from Croatia 336 travel within Croatia 338 Trakošćan Castle 15 travel seasons 42, 328, see also individual regions travel to/from Croatia travel within Croatia trekking, see hiking Trget 135 Trogir , 223 Trpanj 279 Trsteno Arboretum 275 truffle hunting 129, 130 Tučepi 227 Tvrđa 88-9 U Učka Nature Park 148 Ultra Europe 24 Umag Unije 155 V vacations 333 Valun 152 Varaždin 81-5, 83 Varaždinske Toplice 81 vegetarian travellers 314 Vela Draga 148 Veli Lošinj Veli Rat 188 Verne, Jules 132 Verudela Peninsula 103 Vidova Gora 236 Viganj 281 Vis Island 11, , 11 Vis Town visas 16, 334 Vodnjan 110 Volosko 145 volunteering 334 Vošac peak 232 Vrbnik 162 Vukovar 96-7 W wakeboarding 162 walking, see hiking walking tours Split 53, 53 Zagreb 203, 203 weather 16, 22-5, see also individual locations websites 17 weights 330 wi-fi 331 wildlife 35, 321-2, 33 windsurfing 34 Bol Cape Kamenjak 108 Mali Lošinj 155 Viganj 281 Zagreb 55 wine 95, 280, women in Croatia 310 women travellers 334 work 334 Z Zadar 15, 181-8, 184, 10, 15 accommodation activities 185 drinking & entertainment festivals & events 185 food 186 history 182 sights tourist information 187 tours 185 transport Zagorje 15, Zagreb 10, 38, 42-71, 44-5, 48-9, 53, 25 accommodation 42, activities 55-6 children, travel with 56 climate 42 drinking & nightlife 63-6 entertainment 66-7 festivals & events 57-8 food 42, 60-3 highlights 44-5 history 43 itineraries 46, 53 LGBT travellers 66 medical services 69 postal services 69 shopping sights tourist information 69 tours 56 travel agencies 69 travel seasons 42 travel to/from travel within 70-1 Zaraće 241 ziplining 18 Omiš 225 Zlatni Rat 236 Zrenj 129 Žut 190 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000

7 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 351 Map Legend Sights Beach Bird Sanctuary Buddhist Castle/Palace Christian Confucian Hindu Islamic Jain Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Ruin Shinto Sikh Taoist Winery/Vineyard Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Other Sight Activities, Courses & Tours Bodysurfing Diving Canoeing/Kayaking Course/Tour Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Skiing Snorkelling Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Activity Sleeping Eating Sleeping Camping Eating Drinking & Nightlife Drinking & Nightlife Cafe Entertainment Entertainment Shopping Shopping Information Bank Embassy/Consulate Hospital/Medical Internet Police Post Office Telephone Toilet Tourist Information Other Information Geographic Beach Gate Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall Population Capital (National) Capital (State/Province) City/Large Town Town/Village Transport Airport Border crossing Bus Cable car/funicular Cycling Ferry Metro station Monorail Parking Petrol station S-Bahn/Subway station Taxi T-bane/Tunnelbana station Train station/railway Tram Tube station U-Bahn/Underground station Other Transport Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book Routes Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed road Road under construction Plaza/Mall Steps Tunnel Pedestrian overpass Walking Tour Walking Tour detour Path/Walking Trail Boundaries International State/Province Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall Hydrography River, Creek Intermittent River Canal Water Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Reef Areas Airport/Runway Beach/Desert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Glacier Mudflat Park/Forest Sight (Building) Sportsground Swamp/Mangrove

8 OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end broke but inspired they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony s belief that a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse. OUR WRITERS Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Peter Dragicevich Plan Your Trip, Central Dalmatia, Southern Dalmatia After a successful career in niche newspaper and magazine publishing, both in his native New Zealand and in Australia, Peter finally gave into Kiwi wanderlust, giving up staff jobs to chase his diverse roots around much of Europe. Over the last decade he s written literally dozens of guidebooks for Lonely Planet on an oddly disparate collection of countries, all of which he s come to love. He once again calls Auckland, New Zealand his home although his current nomadic existence means he s hardly ever there. Marc Di Duca Istria, Kvarner, Northern Dalmatia A travel author for the last decade, Marc has worked for Lonely Planet in Siberia, Slovakia, Bavaria, England, Ukraine, Austria, Poland, Croatia, Portugal, Madeira and on the Trans-Siberian Railway, as well as writing and updating tens of other guides for other publishers. When not on the road, Marc lives between Sandwich, Kent and Mariánské Láznĕ in the Czech Republic with his wife and two sons. Anja Mutić Understand, Survival Guide, Zagreb, Inland Croatia Born and raised in Zagreb, Croatia, Anja has travelled the globe as a professional wanderer for decades. Her travel writing career has taken her to 60+ countries, taught her several languages (she is fluent in Croatian, English and Spanish and can get by with Portuguese) and her articles have won several awards. She has lived, worked and travelled on all the continents (except Antarctica), which included mini lives (stints of several months) in Buenos Aires and Lisbon. Anja s writing has been published in print and online publications such as The Washington Post, New York Magazine, National Geographic Traveler, AFAR and BBC Travel. Follow her on Instagram at Everthenomad. Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN th edition April 2017 ISBN Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs as indicated Printed in Singapore Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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