Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. Behind the Scenes

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1 672 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Nick Botham, Katerina Canyon, Nicolas Combremont, Christophe Cozien, Jonathan Dickinson, Kennet Fischer Föh, Erik Futtrup, Basia Jóźwiak, Helene Karson, Leslye Korvola, Tim McCready, Marie-Louise Miginiac, Patricia O Donnell, Karin Ratschbacher, Naomi Rose, Natalia Snezhnaya, Caroline Swain, Jiri Varadinek, Michael von Külmer AUTHOR THANKS Simon Richmond Many thanks to my fellow authors and Brana at HQ; Sasha & Andrey for a lovely place to stay, the ever knowledgeable Peter Kozyrev, Chris Hamilton, Adelya Dayanova, Polina Adrianova, Dimitri Ozerkov, Vladimir Stolyarov, Yegor Churakov, Oksana, Maxim Pinigin, Alexander Kim, Maria Isserlis, Yevgenia Semenoff and Polina at the Street Art Museum. Marc Bennetts Thanks to Tanya and Masha for a warm welcome when I arrived home from this research trip. Thanks also to Brana Vladisavljevic and Simon Richmond for steering me through the new system. Thanks also to everyone who helped me out during my travels. Greg Bloom Thanks to Dima for the hospitality in Sheregesh. Thanks to Rita for the Altai advice and for hooking me up with several contacts. Thanks to Vladimir, my crazy cab driver, for the colourful language and Chuysky Trakt anecdotes. Thanks to Russian Railways for being so damn punctual. Thanks to Transaero for the upgrade to business class. Thanks to kalyan. Thanks to the peeps of Western Siberia for being good souls. Marc Di Duca Huge dyakuyu goes to Kyiv parents-in-law Mykola and Vira for looking after sons Taras and Kirill while I was in Siberia. Big thanks to Alex in Chita, Denis and Marina in Ulan-Ude, Andriy and Anya in Slyudyanka, Zhenya in Irkutsk, Igor, Lena and Georgy in Tayshet, the Maryasovs of Severobaikalsk, Anatoliy and Alex in Krasnoyarsk, Aldar and everyone at the Tuvan Cultural Centre, Evgeniy, Anay-Khaak, Sean and Enrique in Kyzyl, Real Russia in London for their hassle-free visa service and of course my wife Tanya, for suffering my long absences from our home in Sandwich, Kent.

2 Anthony Haywood Thanks to those who helped out with local knowledge, mostly anonymously, along the way, but especially to Katya Y. in Kazan and Katya P. in Perm. In Yekaterinburg I d like to thank Konstantin and Olga Brylyakov for sharing their knowledge (and delicious cream cake!), and Luba Suslyakova for her expert opinions and good company over dinner. Thanks also to the staff at LP, especially Anna Tyler and Brana Vladisavljevic. Anna Kaminski I would like to thank everyone who d helped me along the way, not least Brana, Simon for all the advice and encouragement, Tamara and Mark, my predecessors, and the rest of the Russia team. An ogromnoye spasibo to friends old and new, particularly Dmitrii Babenko and Svetlana Tsybendorzhieva in Murmansk, as well as Aleksanr, Ksenia, Aleksei, Andrei, Vadim and Natalia, Igor and Anna in Kirovsk the chapter wouldn t have been the same without your help! I m also much obliged to my parents for fuelling my wanderlust with their own tales of the Russian north and for everything else. Tom Masters Huge thanks to my many friends in St Petersburg, but especially Anatoliy Buzinskiy at Dozhd, Biblioteka Gogolya and Letovpitere for making such huge efforts to help me with contacts and introductions. Thanks to my old friend and tireless Petersburger Simon Patterson, his wife Olga Dmitrieva and their amazing children for making me feel at home during my stay, and also for organising my accommodation. Thanks also to such reliable comrades as Nikita Yumanov, Gena Bogolepov, Alexei Dmitriev, Alexei Chernov, Nikita Slavich, Dima Dzhafarov, Sasha & Andrey, Peter Kozyrev and Nastya Makarova. At Lonely Planet big thanks to Simon Richmond, Anna Tyler, Brana Vladisavljevic and all the in-house eds and cartos for their hard work on this title. Leonid Ragozin Many thanks to my wife Masha Makeeva for bearing with my absences and for accompanying me on the Yaroslavl section of this trip. Huge thanks to my LP colleague Branislava Vladisavljevic for her patience and helping with numerous issues that were coming up in the course of research. It was also great to catch up with fellow authors Simon Richmond, Anthony Haywood and Mara Vorhees in Moscow. Good to see you again! Tamara Sheward Huge thanks go out to Dasha, Vasily, Danil, Olga and Katerina, the brilliant tourist info folks in Kaliningrad and Veliky Novgorod, the eternally-helpful Anton and (the other!) Tamara, the countless babushki who helped with (and spoiled) bubba Masha on the road, and to the incomparably amazing Baba Ritik. All the love in the universe and beyond to Dusan and Masha. Durak adventure forever! Regis St Louis Thanks go to Anna Kaminski and Greg Bloom for helpful tips on the Far East; Martha Madsen for her hospitality and many tips in Yelizovo; Irina and Sasha for a warm welcome in Esso; Yelena for loads of info at Omega Plus in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk; Anastasia for Vladivostok insight; Sasha for the Russky Island excursion; Yegor Makarov for Sakha lore, and Aita, Illary, Elena and expats for all the help in Yakutsk. Hugs to Cassandra and daughters Magdalena and Genevieve for a warm homecoming. Mara Vorhees Самое болшое спасибо to my friend and co-author, Leonid Ragozin, who is a pleasure to work with and fontanka of information about his hometown. Thanks to Tim O Brien (of course), Marc Bennetts, Simon Richmond and Andrei Muchnik for lots of ideas. And finally, what a treat to spend time (not enough) with two dear friends from my past: `Nasha Pasha Yesin and Lyonya Klyuev. As always, thanks to my little guys S&V, for challenging me to see familiar destinations from new perspectives, and to Daddio, for, well, everything. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, Moscow metro map: Art. Lebedev Studio Illustrations p58-9 and p156-7 by Javier Zarracina Cover photograph: Transfiguration Cathedral, Kizhi, Republic of Karelia, Russia, Johanna Huber / 4Corners 673 BEHIND THE SCENES

3 674 THIS BOOK This 7th edition of Lonely Planet s Russia guidebook was researched and written by Simon Richmond, Marc Bennetts, Greg Bloom, Marc Di Duca, Anthony Haywood, Anna Kaminski, Tom Masters, Leonid Ragozin, Tamara Sheward, Regis St Louis and Mara Vorhees. The same authors worked on the previous edition. Mark Elliott and Robert Reid worked on the 5th edition. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet s London office and produced by the following: Commissioning Editor Anna Tyler Destination Editor Branislava Vladisavljevic Product Editor Elizabeth Jones Regional Senior Cartographer Valentina Kremenchutskaya Book Designer Jessica Rose Assisting Editors Andrew Bain, Kellie Langdon, Anne Mulvaney, Charlotte Orr, Jeanette Wall Assisting Cartographers Julie Dodkins, Michael Garrett, James Leversha Assisting Book Designer Virginia Moreno Cover Research Naomi Parker Thanks to Sasha Baskett, Kate Chapman, Penny Cordner, Pete Cruttenden, Brendan Dempsey, Bruce Evans, Ryan Evans, Justin Flynn, Larissa Frost, Anna Harris, Jouve India, Kate James, Andi Jones, Wayne Murphy, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Dianne Schallmeiner, Ellie Simpson, John Taufa, Samantha Tyson, Lauren Wellicome, Juan Winata

4 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 675 Index 1905 Revolution Bolshevik Revolution Civil War Moscow bombings Bolotnaya Sq protest Winter Olympics 361, 362, 369, 562 3, A Abakan Abramtsevo 122 accommodation costs 97, 638 internet resources 639 language activities 30 2, 41-6, see also individual activities, individual locations addresses 644 Adler Aginskoe Agura Valley 367 air travel 649, 653 language 668 airlines 653 airports 649 Ak Dovurak Akhmatova, Anna 170 1, 612 Aktash Akunin, Boris 614 alcoholic drinks Alexander I 55, Alexander II 575, 576 Alibek Valley 380 Alla 497 All Russian Exhibition Centre 78 Altai , border zones 438 hiking 442 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 stone idols 449 visa registration 439 Altai peoples 29, 433 Altai Republic 17 Amanauz Valley 380 amber 215, 265, 268, 275 Amber Mine (Yantarny) 275 Amber Room (Catherine Palace) 215 Amur tigers 528, 634 amusement parks 188, 368, see also theme parks Anavgay 515 Andreev, Leonid 238 Andropov, Yury Angara Dam 483 animals 632 4, see also individual animals animism 605 Annenkova, Pauline 507 Annunciation Cathedral (Moscow) 65 6 Anuy River 17 Anzer Island Apatity Aptekarsky Ogorod 78 aquariums Nerpinarium 489 Oceanarium (Murmansk) 303 Oceanarium (Voronezh) 235 Primorsky Aquarium 527 Arbat 82 9, 100 1, 104 5, 108, 116, 84 5 archaeological museums Archaeological Museum (Moscow) 70 1 Archaeology Museum (Khabarovsk) 519 Historical Architectural & Archaeological Museum 223 Theatre of Time 253 archaeological sites 464 Archangel Cathedral 61, 65 architectural museums Angara Village 474 Architecture & Design History Museum (Yekaterinburg) 399 Architecture Ethnography Museum (Khokhlovka) 396 Bolgar State Historical Architectural Museum Reserve 330 Druzhba Historical Park 545 Esso Ethnographic Museum 559 Ethnographic Museum (Ulan Ude) 499 Kizhi Museum Reserve Kolomenskoe Museum Reserve 83 Malye Karely Wooden Architecture Museum 297 Museum of Ulyanovsk Architecture 334 Museum of Wooden Architecture (Istra) 124 Museum of Wooden Architecture (Kostroma) 137 Museum of Wooden Architecture & Peasant Life (Suzdal) 134 Nevyansk History & Architecture Museum 403 Nizhnyaya Sinyachikha Architecture Museum 404 Taltsy Museum of Architecture & Ethnography 490 Tikhvin Historical Memorial & Architectural Museum 225 architecture books 622 Arctic cruises & tours 281, 303, 307 area codes 21 Arkhangelsk 292 6, 294 Arkhangelskoe Arkhyz Armand, Inessa 68 Armoury (Moscow) 66 7 Arshan art galleries, see also art museums Children s Art Gallery 336 Fine Arts Museum (Arkhangelsk) 293 Gallereya Viktoria 335 Garage Museum of Contemporary Art 92 Kaliningrad Art Gallery 267 Kronid Gogolev Museum 286 Landscape Museum 136 Loft Project ETAGI 175 Lumiere Brothers Photography Centre 91 Manege Exhibition Centre 70 Minsalim Folk Art Pushkinskaya Red October 89, 91 Rizzordi Art Foundation 187 Street Art Museum 184 Strelka Institute 91 Tsereteli Gallery 86 7 Vinzavod 78 art museums, see also art galleries AA Borisov Museum 293 Academy of Arts Museum 180 Art Department 310 Art Muzeon & Krymskaya Naberezhnaya 91 Dogadin Art Gallery 345 EK Plotnikova House Museum 293

5 676 INDEX A-B art museums continued Erarta Museum of Contemporary Art Fabergé Museum 169 Far Eastern Art Museum 519 Fine Art Museum (Tyumen) 412 Fine Arts Gallery (Chelyabinsk) 408 Fine Arts Museum (Murmansk) 303 Fine Arts Museum (Omsk) 418 Fine Arts Museum (Petrozavodsk) 281 Fine Arts Museum (Veliky Novgorod) 253 Gallery of European & American Art of the 19th & 20th Centuries 85 General Staff Museum 164 Hermitage Kazan 327 Hermitage Storage Facility Hermitage Vyborg 220 IN Kramskoy Regional Fine Arts Museum Kartinnaya Gallery 256 Konenkov Sculpture Museum 241 Marble Palace 165, 168 Mikhailovsky Castle 169 Moscow Museum of Modern Art (MMOMA) 73 Multimedia Art Museum 87 Museum of Contemporary Art PERMM 392 Museum of Decorative & Applied Arts 171 Museum of Decorative & Folk Art 77 Museum of Oriental Art 79 Museum of Private Collections 83, 85 Museum of the Russian Icon 93 Museum of Visual Arts 230 National Art Museum (Yakutsk) Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 National Centre of Contemporary Art 321 Nesterov Art Gallery 404 Nevyansk Icon Museum 400 New Tretyakov Gallery 91 2 Nizhegorodsky State Art Museum 321 Old Art Exhibition 142 Perm State Art Gallery 392 Primorsky Picture Gallery 525 Pskov National Museum of History, Architecture & Art 259 Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts 82 3 Radishchev Museum 340 Repin Museum Rublyov Museum of Early Russian Culture & Art 93 Russian Museum 164, 165 Sakhalin Art Museum 547 Samara Art Museum 335 Smolensk Art Gallery 243 State Art Museum (Novosibirsk) 421 State Hermitage Museum 12, 156 7, 160, 161, 183 4, 12, State Tretyakov Gallery Main Branch 89, 92 Stieglitz Museum 77 Sukachev Regional Art Museum 482 Surikov Art Museum 466 Tomsk Art Museum 425 Tretyakov Gallery 89, 92 Tsereteli Studio Museum 81 2 Tver Art Gallery Western European Art Collection 321 Yaroslavl Art Museum 142 Yekaterinburg Museum of Fine Arts art nouveau 618 arts 27, 28, see also architecture, art galleries, art museums, cinema, dance, literature, music, theatre, visual art Artybash Arzhaan Su 446 Assumption Cathedral (Moscow) 60 1 Astrakhan 345 8, 346 ATMs 23, 644 Atsagatsky Datsan 506 aurora borealis 300 Avacha Bay 553 Aya AYaM (Amuro Yakutskaya Magistral) Highway 535 Azau 388 B Baikal Amur Mainline (BAM) 39, 473 7, history 473, 474 Baikalskoe 477 Balkar peoples 380 ballet Moscow St Petersburg BAM (Baikal Amur Mainline) 39, 473 7, history 473, 474 bani (baths) 11, 599, see also mineral-water spas & springs, spas Azimut 139 Banya Land 370 Bersenevskiye Bany 94 5 British Banya 370 Degtyarniye Baths 185 Helio Spa 134 Krasnopresnkiye Bany 95 Lermontov Baths 374 Mytninskiye Bani 185 Narzan Baths 376 Sanduny Baths 11, 94 Yerrmelov Baths 374 bargaining 23 Barguzin 497 Barguzin Valley 497 Barnaul 433 7, 436 Bashkir peoples 601 Bashkortostan, eastern 405 Bashkortostan, Republic of basketball 114 Basmanny 77 9, 99, 103 4, 106 7, 115, 74 5 bathrooms 647 train journeys 40 Battle of Borodino 55, 124, 125 Baturino 496 Bay Dagh 464 beer 627 Belarus, travel to/from 650 Bichiktu Boom 446 bicycle travel, see cycling birds 493, bird watching 493 Birobidzhan Biryusinsk 473 bison 240 Biysk Black Sea Coast 12, Blagoveshchensk Blok, Alexander 612 boat cruises 539, see also boat tours Rostov on Don 357 Sochi 363 boat tours Arkhangelsk 293 Blagoveshchensk 514 Kaliningrad 269 Kenozero National Park 317 Khabarovsk 520 Komsomolsk na Amure 537 Lake Teletskoe 442 Moscow 96 Rostov Veliky St Petersburg 187 to North Pole 307 Volga Delta 347, 349 Volgograd 343 boat travel 653 5, 656, see also boat cruises, boat tours language 668 boating 41 2 Boguchan Island 477 Bolgar 330 Bolshie Koty Bolshoi Solovetsky Island Bolshoi Theatre 17, tickets 110 Bolshoy Zayatsky Island 290 Bonaparte, Napoleon 55 books 562, 564 architecture 622 arts 607 environmental 632, 633 food 625, 626, 629 history 567, 569, 571, 572, 573, 574, 575, 576, 577, 579, 581, 582, 584, 586, 587, 590, 592, 595, 596 outdoor activities 41 train journeys 37 border crossings

6 677 border zones 646 Borisoglebsky 146 Borodino Bratsk Bratsk Dam 474 breweries 335, see also beer Brezhnev, Leonid 68, Brodsky, Josef 171, 613 brown bears 633, 634 Buddhism 605, see also temples Bulavin, Kondraty 359 Bulgakov, Mikhail 610, 612 Bulus 545 Bunin, Ivan 233, 238 Buotama River 541 Buryat peoples 498 Buryatiya bus travel 655, language 668 to/from Moscow to/from St Petersburg 207 business hours business visas 26 Bykov, Dmitry 614 Bystrinsky Nature Park , 635, 28 C cable cars 323 Mt Elbrus 385 Pyatigorsk 373 Vladivostok Funicular 527 camping 638 canoeing 41 2, 323 4, 541, see also rafting Cape Khoboy 492 Cape Shaman 493 car travel 655 6, 668 Chuysky Trakt language 668 rental to/from Moscow 119 Trans Siberian Highway 46 Caspian flamingo 349 castles, see palaces cathedrals 29, 604 Alexander Nevsky Cathedral (Novosibirsk) 421 Annunciation Cathedral (Kazan) 328 Annunciation Cathedral (Moscow) 65 6 Annunciation Cathedral (Voronezh) 234 Annunciation Cathedral (Yaroslavl) 142 Archangel Cathedral 61, 65 Ascension Cathedral (Totma) 315 Ascension Cathedral (Yelets) 233 Assumption Cathedral (Astrakhan) 345 Assumption Cathedral (Moscow) 60 1 Assumption Cathedral (Omsk) 418 Assumption Cathedral (Pechory) 262 Assumption Cathedral (Pereslavl Zalessky) 148 Assumption Cathedral (Rostov Veliky) 145 Assumption Cathedral (Smolensk) 241 Assumption Cathedral (Tula) 227, 229 Assumption Cathedral (Vladimir) 128 Bogoyavlensky Cathedral 483 Cathedral of Christ the Saviour (Kaliningrad) 268 Cathedral of Christ the Saviour (Moscow) 85 6 Cathedral of Christ Transfiguration (Perm) 392 Cathedral of Our Lady of the Sign (Veliky Novgorod) 253 Cathedral of St Dmitry 129 Cathedral of St Sophia 251 Cathedral of the Assumption (Sergiev Posad) 149 Cathedral of the Resurrection 124 Cathedral of the Transfiguration (Yaroslavl) 141 Cathedral of the Transfiguration of Our Saviour (St Petersburg) 171 Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Saviour (Pereslavl Zalessky) 147 Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Saviour (Pskov) 259 Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Saviour (Suzdal) 133, 14 Chita Cathedral 508 Epiphany Cathedral (Moscow) 71 Epiphany Cathedral (Tomsk) 425 Intercession Cathedral (Krasnoyarsk) 467 Intercession Cathedral (Tobolsk) 415 Kaliningrad Cathedral 265 Kazan Cathedral (Moscow) 69 Kazan Cathedral (St Petersburg) 165 Nativity of the Virgin Cathedral 131, 357 Naval Cathedral 219 Nikolsky Cathedral 177 Odigitria Cathedral 499 Pavlovsk Cathedral 218 Resurrection Cathedral (Staraya Russa) 256 Resurrection Cathedral (Starocherkassk) 359 Resurrection Cathedral (Vologda) 311 Sampsonievsky Cathedral 184 Saviour s Cathedral (Minusinsk) 456 Smolensk Cathedral 89 Smolny Cathedral 170 SS Peter & Paul Cathedral (Kazan) 329 SS Peter & Paul Cathedral (Vyborg) 220 St Basil s Cathedral 67 8, 10 St Isaac s Cathedral St Michael s Cathedral (Chernyakhovsk) 272 St Nicholas Cathedral (Veliky Novgorod) 252 St Sofia Cathedral (Tobolsk) 415 St Sophia s Cathedral (Vologda) 309 Transfiguration Cathedral (Moscow) 77 Transfiguration Cathedral (Novokuznetsk) 430 Transfiguration Cathedral (Solovetsky Islands) 289 Transfiguration Cathedral (Tikhvin) 225 Transfiguration Cathedral (Vologda) 311 Trinity Cathedral (Kostroma) 137 Trinity Cathedral (Kyakhta) 506 Trinity Cathedral (Moscow) 94 Trinity Cathedral (Pskov) 258 Trinity Cathedral (Sergiev Posad) 149 Vladimirsky Cathedral 175 Voskresensky Cathedral (Nerchinsk) 510 Znamensky Cathedral 413 Catherine II (the Great) Caucasian peoples 359, 602 Caucasus Mountains, see Central Caucasus Cave, Nick 325 caves Kungur Ice Cave 396 Pechory 262 Vorontsovskaya Cave 364 caviar 623 cell phones 20, cemeteries Barguzin Cemetery 497 British Naval Cemetery 303 Novodevichy Cemetery 89 Rogozhskoe Cemetery 97 Tula Necropolis Central Caucasus , 379 Centre for Tuvan Culture 462 Chadan 465 Chaliapin, Fyodor 377 Chechen peoples 56, 355, 387, 592, 594, 602 Chechnya 56, 355, 387, 592, 594 Chechnya crisis 56 Cheget Polyana 387 Chekhov, Anton 81, 123, 427, 546, 547, 610 Chelyabinsk Chelyabinsk Region Chemal INDEX B-C

7 678 INDEX C Chernyakhovsk 272 Chess City 351 Chike Taman Pass 444 children, travel with 640 food 630 Moscow 95 St Petersburg 188 China, travel to/from 650 Chita Christianity, Russian Chukchi peoples 602 Chukotka Autonomous Region 539 churches 29, 604, 617, 620 Annunciation Church (Kargopol) 316 Annunciation Church (Solovetsky Islands) 289 Annunciation Gate Church 133 Archangel Michael Church (Torzhok) 248 Archangel Michael log church (Chita) Archangel Mikhail Church (Tobolsk) 417 Archangel Mikhail Church (Tyumen) 413 Ascension Church (Kolomenskoe) 83 Ascension Church (Malye Karely) 297 Ascension Church (Solovetsky Islands) 290 Ascension Church (Yekaterinburg) 397 Assumption Church (Biysk) 437 Assumption Church (Solovetsky Islands) 289 Assumption Church (Yeniseysk) 471 Assumption Refectory Church 133 Chapel at the Well 149 Chapel of St Nicholas (Novosibirsk) 421 Chapel of the Archangel Michael 285 Chapel of the Revered Martyr Grand Princess Yelizaveta Fyodorovna 397 Chasovnya Chapel Chesme Church 185 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Church of All Saints Polkovaya 225 Church of Dimitry Solun 223 Church of Elijah the Prophet 141 Church of John the Baptist (Staraya Ladoga) 223 Church of Our Lady of the Don 358 Church of SS Konstantin & Yelena 124 Church of St Dmitry on the Blood 146 Church of St Inokent 477 Church of St John the Baptist (St Petersburg) 183 Church of St Nicholas (Stary Izborsk) 261 Church of St Peter the Metropolitan 147 Church of the Deposition of the Robe 61 Church of the Entry into Jerusalem 315 Church of the Grand Ascension 79 Church of the Holy Fathers of the Seven Ecumenical Councils 94 Church of the Holy Martyr Mina 256 Church of the Intercession (Kizhi) 285 Church of the Intercession on the Nerl 131 Church of the Nativity of Christ 315 Church of the Nativity of Our Lady 252 Church of the Nativity of the Virgin in Putinki 75 Church of the Resurrection of Lazarus 285 Church of the Saviour on the Waters 303 Church of the Saviour over the Galleries 145 Church of the Sign 142 Church of the Small Ascension 79 Church of the Transfiguration (Moscow) 86 Church of the Transfiguration of Our Saviour on Ilyina Street Church of the Trinity in Nikitniki 72 Church of the White Trinity 247 Church on the Spilled Blood 164 Church upon the Blood 397 Emperor Constantine Church 133 Epiphany Church of Zapskovie 259 Forty Martyrs Church 147 Gate Church of St John the Divine 145 Gate Church of the Resurrection 145 Great Count s Church 233 Holy Spirit Church 245 Intercession Church (Moscow) 77, 97 Intercession Church (Pechory) 262 Ioanno Bogoslavski Chapel 444 Iverskaya Chapel 425 John the Baptist Church (Kargopol) 316 John the Baptist Church at Tolchkovo Kazansky Church 483 Miracle Worker s Chapel 297 Orthodox Church (Severobaikalsk) 475 Peter & Paul Church (Shushenskoe) 457 Peter & Paul Church (Smolensk) 243 Peter & Paul Church (Tyumen) 412 Pokrovsky Church 433 Raising of the Cross Church 482 Refectory Church of St Sergei 149 Resurrection Church (Krasnoyarsk) 466 Resurrection Church (Suzdal) 134 Resurrection Church (Voronezh) 235 Resurrection Church (Suzdal) 133 Rozhdenstva Bogooroditsy Church 316 Saviour Church Not Made by Hand 122 Saviour s Church (Irkutsk) 483 Spassky Church 502 St George s Church (Malye Karely) 297 St George s Church (Staraya Ladoga) 223 St Inokent Chapel 472 St Nicholas Church (Aginskoe) St Nicholas Church (Listvyanka) 489 St Nicholas Church (Pechory) 262 St Nicholas Church (Suzdal) 133 St Simeon Stylite Gate Church 94 Svyato Makarevsky Church 439 Transfiguration Church (Kizhi) 15, 285, 15 Transfiguration Church (Suzdal) 134 Transfiguration Gate Church (Moscow) 88 9 Troitsky Church 412 Uspenskaya Church 506 Veronica s Veil Chapel 285 Voskresenskaya Church (Kyakhta) 506 Voznesenskaya Church 426 Voznesensko Georgievskiy Church 412 Vvedenskaya Church 234, 316 Zachary & Elisabeth Church 417 Chuvash peoples 601 Chuysky Trakt Chyornaya Recha 457 cinema , see also films Circassian Massacre 356 Circassian peoples 355, 356, 602 Circumbaikal Railway 494 circuses 610 Moscow St Petersburg 204 classical music Moscow 109 St Petersburg climate 20, 30 2 closed military zones (ZATOs) 306 clubs 106 coffee 628 Cold War consulates 641 2

8 679 continental divide 403 convents, see also cathedrals, churches, monasteries Intercession Convent (Suzdal) Novodevichy Convent 88 9 St Alexey of Akatov Women s Monastery 235 cosmonaut training 46 Cosmonautics Museum 78 cosmonauts 46, 78, 586 Cossack peoples 320, 358, 571 crafts 27 credit cards 644 crime Crimea crisis Crimean War cross country skiing 45 6 Curonian Spit, see Kurshskaya Kosa customs regulations cycling 42, 43, 668 Moscow 96 Samara 336 St Petersburg 185 Tolyatti 338 Cyrillic alphabet 665 D dachas 598 Dagestan 387 dance Dancing Forest 277 Decembrists 456, 502, 507 8, 574 Diaghilev, Sergei 392 disabilities, travellers with 648 discount cards 640 discrimination 646 diving 42 3 Arctic Circle 299 Yantarny 275 Divnogorsk 472 dog sledding 489 Dombay border permits 382 Dostoevsky, Fyodor 175, 255 6, 611 drinks 626 8, , see also alcoholic drinks, beer, coffee, kefir, konyak, kvas, sok, water, wine etiquette 23 language train journeys 40 driving, see car travel driving licences 655 dunes DVDs 640 Dzerzhinsky, Felix 68 E Easter (Pashka) 31, 187 Eastern Baikal Eastern Siberia 50, , 451 accommodation 450 climate 450 food 450 highlights 451 history planning 450 travel seasons 450 education system Eisenstein, Sergei 615 Elanka 545 electricity 641 Elekmonar 446 Elista elk 633 embassies emergencies 21 language 667 Engels 342 environmental issues gas mining Khimki Forest 636 Lake Baikal 479 oil mining Stolby Nature Reserve 636 Epchik Pass 380 Erarta Museum of Contemporary Art Erzhey 464 Esso 515, Estonia, travel to/from 650 ethnic groups Altai peoples 29, 433 Balkar peoples 380 Bashkir peoples 601 Buryat peoples 498 Caucasian peoples 359, 602 Chechen peoples 56, 355, 387, 592, 594, 602 Chukchi peoples 602 Chuvash peoples 601 Circassian peoples 355, 356, 602 Cossack peoples 320, 358, 571 Even peoples 515, 559 Evenki peoples 559, 602 Finno-Ugric peoples Itelmeni peoples 515, 559 Karachay peoples 380 Koryak peoples 515, 559, 602 Nanai peoples 515, 538 Nenet peoples 601 Sakha peoples 515 Sami peoples 301 Tatar peoples Tuvan peoples 458 9, 462 etiquette 23, 40, 598 bani 599 drinking 23, 627 food 23 photography 645 train travel 40 visiting churches 603 Even peoples 515, 559 Evenki peoples 559, 602 events, see festivals & events exchange rates 21 F Fabergé Museum 169 February Revolution ferry travel 652 to/from St Petersburg 207 festivals & events 30-2 City Day (Moscow) 96 City Day (St Petersburg) 188 December Nights Festival 96 Dzhangariada 351 Easter (Paskha) 31, 187 Golden Mask Festival 96 Kamwa Festival 32, 393 Mariinsky Ballet Festival 187 Mir Sibiri 456 Moscow Biennale of Contemporary Art 96 Moscow International Film Festival 96 music festivals 609 Perm White Nights 393 Russian Navy Day 270 Sabantuy 329 Sadko Festival 31 Stars of the White Nights Festival (St Petersburg) 188 Victory Day (St Petersburg) Winter Festival 96 Ysyakh films 562, 610, 612, Finland, travel to/from 208, 650 Finno-Ugric peoples fishing 43 4, 299, 486, 541 Flyonovo 245 folk art folk music 110, 607 folk dancing 607 food 623 6, caviar 623 etiquette 23 language omul 486 train journeys 40 Tuvan food 459 football (soccer) 114 forts 566, see also kremlins Anninskie Fortifications 221 Fort No. 7 (Vladivostok) 528 Kuznetsk Fortress 430 Peter & Paul Fortress 181 Smolensk Fortress 243 Staraya Ladoga Fortress 223 Stary Izborsk Fortress 261 Fringilla Ornithological Station 277 Frunze, Mikhail 68 G Gagarin, Yuri 340 Gaivoron 528 Ganina Yama 403 gas mining Gatchina gay travellers 643 Moscow 108 St Petersburg 200 geography geology Georgian cuisine 625 German Soviet Pact 583 geysers giardia lamblia 152 GIBDD (traffic police) 656 Gift to Young Housewives, A 628 glaciers 386 glasnost 587 Glinka, Mikhail 607 INDEX C-G

9 680 INDEX G-H Godunov, Boris 149, 569 Gogol, Nikolai 79, 611 Golden Horde 55, 320, 567 Golden Horn Bay 18, 18 Golden Ring 47, , 127 accommodation 126 climate 126 food 126 highlights 127 itineraries 129 planning travel seasons 126 Goncharov, Ivan 333 Gorbachev, Mikhail 56, Gorki Leninskie 123 Gorky, Maxim 80, 612 Gorky Park (Moscow) 92 Gorno Altaisk Gorodets 326 Gorodishchenskoye Lake 261 Goryachinsk 496 Grand Palace (Peterhof) Great Baikal Trail 16, 483 Gremyachinsk 496 Grigorevka 457 gulags Khabarovsk gulag 519 Magadan 539 Perm 394 Solovetsky 288, 290 GUM 114 H health 152, 643 ticks 412 water 627 helicopter tours 44 heliskiing 364, 555 Hermitage Storage Facility Hermitage, the, see Hermitage Storage Facility, State Hermitage Museum hiking 44 5, see also hiking trails Altai 442 Central Caucasus Khibiny Mountains 299 Mt Avachinskaya 558 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Mt Belukha Mt Cheget 386 Mt Elbrus 385 Mt Fisht 368 Mt Koryakskaya 558 safety 44 Sochi National Park 367 hiking trails 27 Frolikha Adventure Coastline Trail 476 Great Baikal Trail 16, 483 historic buildings & sites, see also kremlins Admiralty (St Petersburg) Armoury (Moscow) 66 7 Borodino Field 125 Chamber of Facets 252 Golden Gate 129 Gora Sekirnaya 290 Gostiny Dvor Ivan the Great Bell Tower 61 Kutafya Tower 57 Lubyanka Prison 77 Monplaisir 212 New Holland 178 Rastorguev Kharitonov Mansion 397 Saviour Gate Tower 68 Senate Building 60 Synod Printing House 71 Syuyumbike Tower 328 Tretyakovsky Proezd 71 Trinity Gate Tower 57 Tverskaya ploshchad 75 Historic Centre (St Petersburg) 160 1, , , 194 5, , history dissolution of Soviet Republic expansion of Russian empire formation of Russia Putin in power Russian Revolution Soviet Russia WWI 578 WWII hitching 656 holidays 645 horse riding 45 Arkhyz 382 Aya 440 Samara 336 Stary Izborsk 261 Teberda hostels Hotel Metropol 79 Hotel Moskva 102 hotels 639 house & biographical museums Altes Haus Anna Akhmatova Museum at the Fountain House AS Pushkin Museum 248 Ayvan Darzhiev Museum 506 Burganov House 86 Butin Palace Museum 510 Chaliapin Dacha Literary Museum 377 Chambers of the Romanov Boyars 72 Chekhov House Museum 81 Chekhov Museum 123 Countess Panina s House 326 Dostoevsky Cultural Centre 256 Dostoevsky House Museum (Staraya Russa) 255 Dostoevsky Museum (St Petersburg) 175 Fortified House of Kondraty Bulavin 359 Gagarin Museum 340 Gogol House 79 Goncharov Museum 333 Herman Brachert House Museum 273 House Museum of 19thand 20th Century History 413 House Museum of Yelets Lace 233 Ivan Bunin Museum (Oryol) 238 Ivan Bunin Museum (Yelets) 233 Khrennikov Museum 233 Kirov Museum 181 Kornilov Mansion 417 Kuskov Museum 315 Kuzminsky House 232 Lenin Museum (Gorki Leninskie) 123 Lenin Museum (Minusinsk) 456 Leonid Andreev House Museum 238 Lermentov Museum 373 Levitan House Museum 136 Metenkov House Museum of Photography 400 Mikhailovskoe 258 Museum of Sakhalin Island: A Book by AP Chekhov 547 Nabokov Museum 177 Nikolai Leskov House Museum 238 NK Rerich Museum Old English Court 72 Pasternak House Museum 123 Penates 190 Peter the Great House 311 Pushkin House Museum 87 Pushkin Flat Museum 170 Pushkin Literary Museum 87 Rerikh Museum 86 Rimsky Korsakov House Museum 225 Rukavishnikov Mansion 321 Ryabushinsky Mansion 80 Sakharov Centre 93 Sakharov Museum 323 Sergei Diaghilev Museum 392 Spasskoe Lutovinovo 239 Stalin s Dacha 367 Surikov Museum Estate 466 Tchaikovsky House Museum 123 Timofey Granovsky House Museum 238 Tolstoy Estate Museum 88 Tolstoy House 232 Tolstoy Literary Museum 87 Trubetskoy House Museum 481 Turgenev Museum 238 Vasnetsov House Museum 75 Velimir Khlebnikov Museum 345 Victor Astafiev House Museum 472 Volkonsky House Museum housing 598

10 681 I ibn Fadlan, Ahmed 326 ice diving 42 3 ice fishing 486 ice hockey 114 icons immigration 649 Ingushetia 387 insurance 643 International Scientific Centre of Khöömei 462 internet access 643 internet resources 21, 564, 639 Inya 445 Iodro 445 Irkutsk , accommodation drinking & nightlife 487 entertainment 487 food sights tours travel to/from 488 travel within 488 Islam 604, see also mosques Istra 124 Itelmeni peoples 515, 559 itineraries 33 6 Ivan III (the Great) 55, 568 Ivan IV (the Terrible) 55, 312, 327, 569 Ivolga 505 Ivolginsk Datsan 505 Izmaylovksy Market 19, 116 J Jewish culture 517, 605 Jewish Museum & Centre of Tolerance 73 Judaism 605, see also synagogues K Kaliningrad , accommodation activities 269 drinking & nightlife entertainment 272 festivals & events 269 food sights 265, statues 269 travel to/from travel within 273 Kaliningrad Region 48, , 264 accommodation 263 climate 263 food 263 highlights 264 planning 263 travel seasons 263 Kalmykia, Republic of Kamchatka 12, , 551, 13 environment planning 554 tours Kamenny Island 183 Kamwa Festival 32, 393 Kant Island 265 Karachay peoples 380 Karelia, Republic of Kargopol kayaking, see canoeing, rafting Kazakhstan, travel to/ from 650 Kazan , 328 accommodation drinking & nightlife festivals & events 329 food 331 shopping 332 sights travel to/from 332 travel within 333 kefir 628 Kem Khaan, Chinggis 567 Khabarovsk , Khakassia Republic 453 7, 454 Khamovniki 82 9, 100 1, 104 5, 116, 84 5 Khan, Gengis, see Khaan, Chinggis Khandagayty 465 Kharms, Daniil 612 Khokhlovka 396 Kholmsk 550 khöömei (throat singing) 459 Khrushchev, Nikita 585 Khuzhir 484, Kirov, Sergei 181 Kirovsk Kirovsky Islands Kislovodsk Kitay Gorod 70 2, 97, 102 3, 106, 114 Kizhi 15, Kizhi Museum Reserve Klin 123 Kola Peninsula Kolomenskoe Museum Reserve 83 Kolomna 175 8, 192 3, 197 8, 201, 176 Komsomolsk na Amure 535 8, 536 Konevets Island 224 konyak (brandy) 626 Koryak peoples 515, 559, 602 Kosh Agach Kostroma , 138 Krasnaya Polyana 12, , 12 Krasnodar Krasnoyarsk , 468 Krasnoyarsk Region kremlins Astrakhan 345 Kazan Moscow 57 61, 65 7, 102-3, 114, 70, 58 9 Nizhny Novgorod 321 Pereslavl Zalessky 147 Pskov 258 Rostov Veliky 145 Suzdal 131 Tobolsk Tula 227, 229 Veliky Novgorod 13, 250 2, 13 Vologda Krestovsky Island 183 Kronshtadt Krymov, Dmitry 610 Kuban Steppe Kulada 446 Kulikovo Pole 229 Kungur 396 Kungur Ice Cave 396 Kunstkamera 178 Kupchegen 444 Kuril Islands 557 Kurshskaya Kosa Kursk 235 Kurumkan 497 Kuskov, Ivan 315 kvas (nonalcoholic beer) 628 Kyakhta Kyren 496 Kyzyl 460 3, 461 Kyzyl Mazhalyk 465 L labyrinths 290 Lada cars 338 Lake Baikal 16, , 478, 7, 16 environmental issues 479 tours lakes 631, 632 Akkem Lake 448 Cheder Salt Lake 463 Donguzorunkel Lake 386 Khövsgöl Lake 496 Lake Baikal 16, , 478, 7, 16 Lake Dus Khol 464 Lake Kanozero 299 Lake Khadyn 464 Lake Kotokel 496 Lake Kurilskoe 555 Lake Ladoga Lake Lekshmo 317 Lake Seliger Lake Seydozero 302 Lake Slyudyanskoe 477 Lake Teletskoe 442 Lake Tore Khol 464 Lake Turgoyak 406 Lake Zyuratkul 407 Ozero Karakel 380 Ozero Tumanlykel 380 Shavlinsky Lakes language 23, Latvia, travel to/from 650 legal matters 643 4, 645 GIBDD (traffic police) 656 Lekshmozero 317 lemmings 632 Lena Pillars (Lenskie Stolby) 541 Lenin, Vladimir Ilych 68, 69, 123, 154 5, 413, 456, 576, 579, 581 Leningrad, see St Petersburg Leningrad Blockade 154 Leningrad Region Lermontov, Mikhail 373, 374 lesbian travellers 643 Moscow 108 St Petersburg 200 libraries 329 Listvyanka literature 28 9, Liteyny 170 4, 191 2, 195 6, 200 1, Lithuania, travel to/from 650 live music Moscow 112, 114 St Petersburg 202 local transport language 668 INDEX I-L

11 682 INDEX L- M Lovozero Lubyanka Prison 77 Lyadiny 317 M Magadan 539 Maksimikha 496 Maly Yaloman Malye Karely 297 Mandelstam, Osip 612 Manzherok 441 Mariinsky Theatre 17, 175 6, 202, 17 markets Birobidzhan farmers market 517 Central Market (Nalchik) 384 Dzherzhinskogo Market 428 Izmaylovsky Market 19, 116 Komsomolsk na Amure Market 537 Udelnaya Fair 204 Vladivostok Market 530 marshrutky travel 655, Marxism 576 Mayakovsky, Vladimir 430 measures 640 medical services Moscow 117 St Petersburg 206 Medvedev, Dmitry 596 Melikhovo 123 memorials, see monuments & memorials Meshchansky 77 9, 103 4, 106 7, 74 5 metro travel 657 language 668 Moscow , 121, 62 3 St Petersburg 209, Mikhail I, Tsar 137 Mikhailovskoe 258 military museums Arms Museum 229 Artillery Museum 181 Artillery Yard (Astrakhan) 345 Bunker 42 Cold War Museum 92 3 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Bunker Museum 267 Central Museum of the Armed Forces 76 7 Exposition of Military Equipment 88 Hall of Military Glory 253 Military Technology Museum (Yekaterinburg) 400 Museum of Military Hardware 359 Museum of the Defence & Blockade of Leningrad 171 Museum of the Great Patriotic War 88 Museum of the Northern Fleet 303 Panorama Museum of the Battle of Stalingrad 342 S 56 Submarine 525 Stalin s Bunker (Samara) 335 SV Nikolai 467 Urals Military History Museum 400 Vladivostok Fortress Museum 525 Voroshilov Battery 527 War History Museum (Barnaul) 433 Young Defenders of the Motherland Museum 235 Mineralnye Vody mineral water spas & springs Aushiger Hot Spring 383 Dzelinda Spa 475 Goudzhekit Spa 475 Khakusy Turbaza 475 Narzan Gallery 376 Proval 374 Slovenian Springs 261 Zhemchug 496 Minusinsk 456 mobile phones 20, monasteries 29, 603, see also cathedrals, churches, convents Alexander Nevsky Monastery Annunciation Monastery (Nizhny Novgorod) 323 Assumption Monastery (Sviyazhsk) 333 Bogolyubsky Monastery 131 Borisoglebsky Monastery 248 Danilov Monastery 93 4 Donskoy Monastery 94 Goritsky Monastery 148 John the Baptist Monastery 333 Kirillov Belozersky Monastery 312 Konavets Monastery 224 Mirozhsky Monastery 259 Monastery of Saviour & St Jacob 145 Monastery of St Ipaty 137 Monastery of the Epiphany 71 Monastery of the Holy Martyrs 403 Monastery of the Transfiguration of the Saviour (Yaroslavl) 141 New Jerusalem Monastery 124 Nikolsky Monastery 223 Novospassky Monastery 77 8 Pechorsky Monastery 323 Pechory Monastery 262 Saviour Borodino Monastery 125 Saviour Monastery of St Euthymius 131, 133 Saviour Sumorin Monastery 315 Solovetsky Transfiguration Monastery 19, 289, 290, 19 Spaso Preobrazhensky Monastery 471 Spaso Prilutsky Monastery 311 St George s Monastery 252 Tikhvin Monastery of the Mother of God Transfiguration Monastery (Valaam) 286, 287 Trinity Monastery of St Sergius 149 Trinity Monastery (Smolensk) 241 Trinity Monastery (Tyumen) 412 Upper St Peter Monastery 73 Zaikonospassky Monastery 71 Znamensky Monastery (Irkutsk) 481 Znamensky Monastery (Yelets) 233 Zverin Monastery 253 Monastyrsky Island 496 Monchegorsk Mondy 496 money 20, 23, 644 Mongolia, travel to/from 651 monuments & memorials Alyosha 302 Centre of Asia Monument 460 Civil War Monument 356 continental divide (Pervouralsk) 403 Lenin Head 498 Lenin s Mausoleum 68 Mamaev Kurgan 342 Maritime Victory Park 183 Memorial to Victims of Political Repression 363 Millennium of Russia Monument Monument to the Founders of Yekaterinburg 398 Monument to the Heroic Defenders of Leningrad 185 Musa Dzhalil Monument 327 Park Pobedy 88 Return Memorial 351 Romanov Death Site 397 Statue of Yury Andropov 281 Tomb of the Unknown Soldier 68 Tomsk WWII Memorial 426 Victory Memorial (Kursk) 235 War Victory Monument (Arkhangelsk) 293 Yaroslavl Millenium Monument 142 moose 140 Moscow 47, , 54, 64 5, 70, 74, 80, 84, 90 accommodation 52, activities 94 5 children, travel with 95 climate 52 drinking & nightlife emergencies 117 entertainment , 114

12 683 festivals & events 96 food 52 gay & lesbian travellers 108 highlights 54 history 55 7 information internet access 117 internet resources 53, 118 itineraries 60 media 117 medical services 117 metro tour planning information 52 3 postal services 117 safety shopping sights tours 53, 96 travel seasons 52 travel to/from travel within 53, 121 2, 62 3 Moscow Planetarium 81 Moscow State University 93 mosques 29 Khazret Osman Mosque 447 Kul Sharif Mosque 328 Nurullah Mosque 329 Soltanov Mosque 329 St Petersburg Mosque 181 motorcycle travel mountaineering 44 5 mountains Ak Khayyrakan 464 Khibiny Mountains 299 Mt Aktru Mt Avachinskaya 558 Mt Baida 448 Mt Belukha Mt Bolshoe Sedlo 376 Mt Bolshoy Akhun 367 Mt Cheget Mt Dombay Ulgen 380 Mt Elbrus 378, Mt Fisht 368 Mt Iiktu 447 Mt Khayyrakan 465 Mt Koryakskaya 558 Mt Maashey Mt Maloe Sedlo 376 Mt Maly Dzhinal 376 Mt Mashuk 373 Mt Mishennaya 552 Mt Mongun Tayga 465 Mt Mutnovskaya 555 Mt Sarlyk 444 Mt Semyonovbashi 380 Mt Sinyukha 441 Mt Sofrudzhu 380 Mt Sulakhat 380 Mt Syyn Churee 465 Mt Vilyuchinsky 553 Mt Zelyonaya 431 Munku Sardyk 496 Pik Cherskogo 493 multiculturalism 29 Murmansk 302 9, 304 accommodations drinking & nightlife 307 entertainment festivals & events 303 food shopping 308 sights tours 303 travel to/from 308 travel within museums, see also archeological museums, architectural museums, art museums, house & biographical museums, military museums, regional museums Alabin Museum 335 All Russian Museum of History and Ethnography 248 Altai Arts, Literature & Culture Museum 433 Altaysky Tsentr 444 Amber Museum 268 Antique Automobile Museum 528 Antiquities Exhibition Centre 229 AV Anokhin National Museum of Altai 439 Baikal Mineral Museum 493 Baikal Museum 489 BAM Museum (Severobaikalsk) 474 BAM Museum (Tynda) Banya Museum 496 Bashkortostan National Museum 404 Bereginya 316 Birobidzhan Jewish History Museum 517 Biryusinsk Museum 473 Borodino Museum Botik Museum 148 Castle Prison Museum Centre of Musical Antiquities 253 Chambers 129 Children s Museum 326 City History Museum (Irkutsk) 482 Contemporary History Museum 80 Cosmonautics Museum 78 Decembrist Museum (Chita) Decembrist Museum (Minusinsk) 456 Decembrist Museum (Novoselenginsk) 502 Deputy s Palace Museum 416 Diamond Fund Exhibition 67 Experimentanium 77 Fortress Museum Friedland Gate 265 Geological Museum (Monchegorsk) 300 Geological Museum (Ulan Ude) 499 Glinka Museum of Musical Culture 76 Goldwork Embroidery Museum and Factory 248 Gubernsky Museum 417 Gulag History Museum 73 History & Arts Museum (Kaliningrad) 267 History Museum (Smolensk) 241 History Museum (Vladimir) 129 History of Tomsk Museum 425 History of Yaroslavl Museum 143 In the World of Fairytales Museum 241 Izborsk Museum 261 Jewish Museum & Centre of Tolerance 73 Khakassia National Museum 453 Khangalov Museum of Buryat History 498 Khomus Museum 541 Khuzhir Museum 492 King s Gate 267 Kukushka.ru 148 Kunstkamera 178 Kurshskaya Kosa National Park Museum 277 Kyakhta Museum 506 Lace Museum 310 Literature Museum 466 Mammoth Museum and Archaeology & Ethnography Museum 539, 541 Martyanov Museum 456 Metal Working Museum 230 Mineralogy Museum 298 Moscow Museum 87 8 Mousetrap Museum 274 Museum Estate of Simbirsk Urban Life in the Late 19th and Early 20th Centuries 333 Museum of City Life (Irkutsk) 482 Museum of Fire Fighting in Simbirsk Ulyanovsk Museum of Oppression (Kyzyl) 460 Museum of Perm Prehistory 392 Museum of Political History 181 Museum of Railway Technology 184 Museum of Russian Superstitions 277 Museum of Russian Vodka 241 Museum of Samovars 326 Museum of the Nizhny Novgorod Diocese 323 Museum of the Volga Don Canal 343 Museum of the World Ocean 265, 267 Museum of Zoology Museum Reserve Old Sarepta Music & Time 141 Nanai Museum 538 National Museum (Kyzyl) 460 National Museum of the Republic of Kalmykia 350 National Museum of the Republic of Tartarstan Nature Museum (Ulan Ude) 499 New Jerusalem Museum 124 INDEX M

13 684 INDEX M-P museums continued Northern Naval Museum 292 North Russian Exploration Museum 298 Novgorod State United Museum 251 Oppression Museum 425 Polytechnical Museum 72 Pryanik Museum 230 Pskov National Museum of History, Architecture & Art 259 Puppet House 281 Railway Museum (Abakan) 453 Railway Museum (Yekaterinburg) 400 Rumyantsev Mansion 178 Russian Museum Sami History & Culture Museum 301 Seafarers Museum 315 Shushenskoe Ethnographic Museum 457 Slyudyanka Museum 493 Smolensk Flax Museum 241 Sochi Town History Museum 363 Soviet Arcade Games Museum 78 Soviet Lifestyle Museum 329 Special Treasury State History Museum 68 9 State Museum of Theatre & Music 171 Suzdal History Museum 131 Tartarstan Museum of Natural History 327 Technical Museum 338 Toy Museum (Segiev Posad) 149 Treasury of the Sakha Republic 541 Tsybikov Museum 510 Tula Samovar Museum 229 Ulan Ude City Museum 499 Ural Geological Museum 399 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Urals Mineralogical Museum 399 USSR Museum 421 Vitoslavlitsy 252 Vladimir Vysotsky Alpine Museum 386 War of 1812 Museum 69 World of Forgotten Things 311 Writ Chamber Zelenogradsk Cat Museum 276 music 564, festivals 609 folk music 110, 607 khöömei (throat singing) Mussa Achitara Ridge Myshkin 146 N Nabokov, Vladimir 177 Nakhodka 528 Nalchik Nanai peoples 515, 538 Napoleon Bonaparte 55 national parks & nature reserves 635 Astrakhan Biosphere Reserve 349 Bystrinsky Nature Park , 635, 28 Kenozero National Park 317 Kronotsky Biosphere State Reserve 554, 635 Kurshskaya Kosa National Park 276, 635 Losiny Ostrov National Park 78 Nalychevo Nature Park 558 Orlovskoye Polesye National Park 240 Pribaikalsky National Park 492 Prielbruse National Park 384, 635 Samara Bend National Park 339, 635 Sikhote Alin Nature Reserve 528, 635 Sochi National Park 367 Stolby Nature Reserve 466, 635, 636 Taganay National Park 408, 635 Teberdinsky State Natural Biosphere Reserve 378 9, 635 Tunka National Park 496 Ubsunur Basin Biosphere Reserve 464 Varota Sartikpayev Gorge Vorobyovy Gory Nature Preserve 93 Zabaikalsky National Park 497 Zyuratkul National Park 407 8, 635 Nazgir Pass 380 Nenet peoples 601 Nerchinsk 510 nerpa seals 497 Neryungri 535 Nevsky, Aleksandr 153, Nevsky Prospekt 164 Nevyansk Nicholas I Nicholas II 397, Nikolsky Cathedral 177 Nizhneangarsk 477 Nizhnyaya Sinyachikha 404 Nizhny Novgorod 320 6, 322 Nizhny Novgorod Region Norshteyn, Yury 616 North Pole tours 307 Northern European Russia 48, , 279 Arctic Circle 278 churches 278 climate 278 highlights 279 planning 278 travel seasons 278 Northern lights 300 Norway, travel to/from 651 Novodevichy Convent 88 9 Novokuznetsk Novoselenginsk 502 Novosibirsk , 420 wooden houses 422 Novospassky Monastery 77 8 Nuclear Icebeaker Lenin 302 O October Revolution 579 oil mining Oka Region 496 Okudzhava, Bulat 87 Old Believers communities 97, 505 Olkhon Island 16, 484, 492 3, 16 Omsk omul 486 Onguday 446 opening hours opera Moscow St Petersburg Operation Barbarossa 584 Oranienbaum Orlik 496 Orlinye Skaly 367 Oryol , 237 Ostankino TV Tower 78 Ostashkov outdoor activities 41 6, see also individual activities Ovsyanka 472 Oymyakon 545 P palaces 27 8 Alexander Palace 217 Arkhangelskoe Estate Ataman Palace 358 Butin Palace 510 Catherine Palace 215 Chinese Palace 214 Georgenburg Castle 272 Great Kremlin Palace 66 Great Palace (Gatchina) 218 Great Palace (Oranienbaum) 214 Great Palace (Pavlovsk) Insterburg Castle 272 Marble Palace 165, 168 Menshikov Palace 180 Mikhailovsky Castle 169 Mikhailovsky Palace 164, 165 Palace of Congress 214 Palace of Peter III 214 Patriarch s Palace 60 Peterhof Palace Peter I s Palace at Strelna 214 Petrodvorets, see Peterhof Palace Sheremetyev Palace 170, 171 Shuvalovsky Palace 169 Stroganov Palace 165 Tauride Palace 171, 174 Terem Palace 66 Tsar Alexey s palace 83 Tsaritsyno Palace 94 Vyborg Castle 220

14 685 Winter Palace (St Petersburg) 160 Yelagin Palace 183 Yusupov Palace 175 Paratunka 559 parks & gardens Alexander Garden 67 Alleya Geroyev 351 Aptekarsky Ogorod 78 Botanical Gardens (Solovetsky Islands) 290 Botanical Gardens (St Petersburg) Catherine Park Central Park (Kaliningrad) 268 Central Park (Tula) 230 Chistye Prudy 77 City Garden (Biysk) 437 City Garden (Tver) 247 City Park (Tyumen) 412 City Park (Yelets) 233 City Park of Culture & Rest (Oryol) 238 Dolinsk Park 383 Esplanade Park 220 Gagarin Park 547 Gatchina Park Glinka Garden 241, 243 Gorky Park (Moscow) 92 Gorky Park (Rostov on Don) 357 Hermitage Gardens 73, 75 Istorichesky Skver 398 Kurortny Park 376 Lenin Park 220 Lower Park (Peterhof) 210 Mars Field 170 Mikhailovsky Gardens 188 Naberezhnaya Severnoy Dviny 293 Park Alexandria 212 Park Becker 275 Park Gagarina 430 Park Monrepo 220 Park Pobedy 88 Park Rivera 363 Park Tsvetnik 374 Patriarch s Ponds 80 1 Pavlovsk Park 218 Polar Alpine Botanical Gardens 298 Retro Park 489 Rosarium 78 Sochi Arboretum 363 Sokolniki 78 Sokolovaya Gora 340 Spin Sport park 338 Summer Garden Tauride Gardens 171, 174 Pashka (Easter) 31, 187 passports 649 Pasternak, Boris 123, Pavlensky, Petr 621 Pavlovsk Pechory 262 Pelevin, Viktor 614 Peredelkino 123 Peredvizhniki (Wanderers) art movement 620 Pereslavl Zalessky perestroika 587 performing arts 606 7, 610 Perm 392 6, 393 Perm Territory Perm White Nights 31 Permafrost Kingdom 543 Peter & Paul Fortress 181 Peter I (the Great) 153 4, 212, 311, 570 Peterhof , 211, 28 Peterhof Town Petrodvorets, see Peterhof petroglyphs 299 Baikalskoe 477 Sikachi Alyan 520 Petrograd, see St Petersburg Petrograd Side (St Petersburg) 181 2, 193 4, 199, 182 Petropavlovsk Kamchatsky 551 8, 552 accommodation drinking 556 eating 556 shopping sights & activities tours 553 travel to/from 557 travel within Petrov, Alexander 616 Petrozavodsk 280 4, 282 phonecards 647 photography 645 Pivan 538 planetariums 81, 188 planning, see also individual regions budgeting 21 calendar of events 30 2 first time visitors 22 3 internet resources 21 itineraries 33 6 Russia basics 20 1 Russia s regions travel seasons 20, 30 2 visas 24 6 plants Plyos 136 Pokrovsk, see Engels Poland, travel to/from 651 Pole of Cold 545 politics pop music Popov Island 528 population 563, 597 Port Baikal 491 postal services 645 Presnya District (Moscow) 79 84, 100, 104, 107, 116, 80 1 protest art 621 Pskov public holidays 645 public transport language 668 Pushkin, Alexander 87, 170, 248, 258, 610, 611, 612 Pushkin (estate) , 216 Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts 82 3 Pussy Riot 562 3, 621 Putin, Vladimir 214, 564, 595 6, 634 Pyatigorsk 373 5, 374 R Rabocheostrovsk Rachmaninov, Sergei 608 racism 601, 646 radio 640 rafting 41 2, 323 4, 336, see also canoeing Arkhyz 382 Aya 440 Buotama River 541 Bystraya River 560 Samara Bend 339 Varota Sartikpayev Gorge Rasputin, Grigory 578 Rasputin, Valentin 613 Red Square 11, 67 70, 70, Reed, John 68 regional museums Amur Regional Museum 514 Arkhangelsk Regional Studies Museum 293 Arsenev Regional Museum 525 Astrakhan Local Studies Museum 345, 347 Birobidzhan Regional Museum 517 Biysk Regional Museum Chelyabinsk Local Studies Museum 408 Engels Regional Museum 342 Gorodets Regional Museum 326 Irkutsk Regional Museum Kamchatka Regional Unified Museum 553 Khabarovsk Territorial Museum 519 Krasnodar Regional Museum 360 Krasnoyarsk Regional Museum 466 Kungur Regional Museum 396 Kursk Regional Museum 235 Kuznetzov Regional Museum 508 Kyzyl Mazhalyk Regional Museum 465 Municipal Museum of Regional Studies (Komsomolskna Amure) 536 Murmansk Regions Studies Museum 303 Museum of Regional Studies (Petrozavodsk) 281 Museum of Tver Life 246 Museum of Volga People s Architecture & Culture 323 Nizhneangarsk Regional Museum 477 Novgorod Regional Folk Arts Centre 253 Novosibirsk Regional Museum 421 Ostashkov Regional Museum 249 Perm Regional Museum 392 Rostov on Don Regional Museum 357 Sakhalin Regional Museum Staraya Russa Regional Museum 256 Tayshet Regional Museum 473 Tomsk Regional Museum 426 INDEX P-R