PEARLS OF THE CROATIAN COAST
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- Godwin Nicholson
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1 HIGHLIGHTS PEARLS OF THE CROATIAN COAST SEPTEMBER 16-23, 2018 TRIP SUMMARY Visiting Split and Dubrovnik, two of Croatia's most vibrant and completely different cities Hiking off the beaten path on Hvar, Korcula, and the Peljasic Peninsula Savoring Croatian wine and cuisine Experiencing a culture which melds both Italian and Balkan influence into a unique blend Phone: Outside the US: Fax: info@goodadventure.com
2 TRIP AT A GLANCE Dates: Sep 16-23, 2018 Location: Dalmatian Coast, Croatia Cost: $3, Activities: Hiking Arrive: Arrive in Split by noon on September 16 Depart: Depart anytime from Dubrovnik on September 23 TRIP OVERVIEW Located on the Balkan peninsula and stretched out along the Adriatic Sea, Croatia's Dalmatian Coast is a unique meld of cultures. While this is most clearly seen in the beginning and end of our trip, the contrasting cities of Split and Dubrovnik, every place we go has its own unique feel. We'll visit Diocletian's Palace in Split, learn about traditional life away from the coast and the Alka Tournament in Sinjin, sea kayak in the Pakleni Islands, learn about lavender production on Hvar, sample local specialties on Korcula, taste wine and oysters on the Peljasic Peninsula, and walk the walls of Dubrovnik. We'll go beyond sightseeing as we journey off the beaten path on little-known hikes. And at the end we'll have a new appreciation of this area that only twenty years ago was largely unknown to modern travelers. Maximum group size: 12 RATING This trip is designed for active women in good physical condition who want to combine hiking off the beaten track in Croatia, with learning about its history and local culture, visiting two of its bestknown cities, and savoring fresh cuisine. Rating: 1 [2] A rating of 2 is suitable for any woman who regularly walks at a brisk pace 3 to 4 days a week for minutes. These trips typically involve 3 to 5 hours of daily activity. WHAT'S INCLUDED A local guide and an Adventures in Good Company group leader 7 nights double occupancy lodging All meals from dinner the first day to breakfast on the last, except for one dinner Airport transfers anytime at the beginning of the trip and one group shuttle at the end All transportation (private bus, ferry, private boat) within Croatia All entrance fees and activities as described in the itinerary Not included: Transportation to Split (SPU) or back from Dubrovnik (DBV), one dinner, alcoholic beverages, guide gratuities and travel insurance.
3 OUR ITINERARY Below is the proposed itinerary for the trip. As is true on any adventure travel trip, plans for any specific day may be modified due to weather considerations, unforeseen circumstances, new opportunities, and group interests. DAY 1 SEPTEMBER 16, SUNDAY Our trip starts at 12PM at our hotel in Split. After a welcome and introductions, our Croatian guide will take us on a walking tour of the Old Town of Split, including a visit to the Marjan peninsula. Split is best known for Diocletian's Palace and the co-existence of ancient Roman Walls and current commerce is fascinating. It can also be a bit overwhelming and do a visit to Marjan is particularly welcome. Marjan, a beautiful and protected park forest with beaches on all three sides, little churches, trails, and viewpoints, is also known as the lungs of the town. The true locals can't imagine living in Split without Marjan - for many it meant first time experiencing nature, love, first day-trip, and first kiss. Greeks built a little temple there dedicated to goddess Diana, and some five centuries ago hermits walled up caves in the vertical rocks and contemplated life 'far from civilization'. It is an easy place to lose yourself, whether exploring its viewpoints or wandering among various species of Mediterranean herbs and plants growing along its paths as they wind through shades of pine trees in the north side. That night we'll go out for our first taste of delicious Croatian cuisine. Overnight Hotel Slavija DAY 2 SEPTEMBER 17, MONDAY Today we're going to explore the Split hinterland with a visit to the picturesque and historic town of Sinj and its nearby villages. Although Dalmatian topography is mostly karst limestone, there are many fertile valleys, oases of fields, forests, rivers, creeks and waterfalls, sometimes set against spectacular canyons or mountains. Only a 30-minute drive from Split, this area has its own unique surroundings, history, and architecture. We start in a small village with a visit to an old stone mill where flour is still produced in the traditional way, using the force of water and stone mills. We'll then enjoy a short walk to the source of a small river called Grab, untouched and untamed, under protection from the nearby mountain Kamesnica. We continue to Sinj and a visit to the museum of ALKA. The Alka Tournament, protected by UNESCO as part of the unique cultural heritage of Sinj and Dalmatia, is a symbol of the struggle for freedom and independence, dating to the times of epic battles against the Ottomans. We'll then visit one of the local taverns for an authentic Dalmatian lunch, with famous Dalmatian prosciutto and cheese, delicious and completely homemade by locals! We'll return to Split where we'll have some free time in the afternoon before meeting up to go out to dinner. B, L, D
4 DAY 3 SEPTEMBER 18, TUESDAY Today we take a ferry to Stari Grad on Hvar island, known as "the sunny island". Although now known as a summer resort, Hvar's history is long and compelling. We'll learn about some of it on our hike today, through two villages. Lavendar production was once central to Hvar's economy and while that is no longer true, small scale production still continues. We start in Velo Grablje in the lavender area. It was founded 500 years ago when Hvar's patricians and nobles sought refuge in the hills during the rise of the disempowered plebeians. Nowadays there are only a few full-time inhabitants in the village; many people maintain their homes there and return for the lavender festival during harvest and distillation. We will meet a local lavender producer and learn about the origins and production of lavender oil in these parts. Then we hike down the canyon to get to Malo Grablje - a little village abandoned in the 1950s due to hardships of life. Walking the alleys between the houses that were once bursting with family life and now reclaimed by vegetation, you can almost hear children play or adults talking about making olive oil. Our efforts are rewarded with a tasty lunch in the special ambience of an authentic local tavern in Malo Grablje. Our walk then continues down to a road where you can return to town for some free time. If you prefer to keep walking, a delightful hike along the coast line will bring you back to town. Regardless of which you choose, we'll share dinner at one of the local restaurants. B, L, D Overnight: Hotel Palace Hiking: 3-5 hours depending on the option you choose DAY 4 SEPTEMBER 19, WEDNESDAY Croatia is defined by it's location on the Adriatic and today we will be exploring it by sea kayak! We'll start from Hvar Town, close to our hotel and paddle to the group of small islands called the Pakleni. The origin of the name goes back to the time when the islands were the main source of rosin for local shipbuilders. Today, like then, the islands are covered with thick pine woods providing refreshing shade even during the hottest summer days. The route through narrow straits and along islands reveals small hidden pebble beaches where we can swim, snorkel and relax. Lunch is in a restaurant on the beach and afterwards we return to Hvar. In the afternoon, we'll have a tour of the town. Although the area of the town was inhabited more than two millennia ago by Illyrians and later by Greeks and Romans, Hvar began to flourish during the Venetian Empire when it served as a naval base. This is most evident in the architecture of the Arsenal where they repaired galleons, one of the oldest municipal theaters in Europe, the cathedral, and possibly the longest square in Dalmatia. We'll start at the fortress that dominates the town. Known as "Spanjola" it tells stories of the past times. It is a beautiful viewpoint, with Hvar's port and the archipelago of Pakleni spread out below you. Dinner is on your own tonight and after the tour you can explore one of the many restaurants the town is known for. B,L
5 DAY 5 SEPTEMBER 20, THURSDAY After breakfast, we get on a local ferry for travel to Korcula. Korcula is an historic and fortified town on the east side of the island, populated even before the Greeks arrived. Later Venetians built the city there in the shape of a fishbone, which served as natural air conditioning by regulating the wind flow, and with walls that protected it not just from possible attack but also from stormy and cold winds in winter. Korculans claim it as the birth place of the famous Italian traveler Marco Polo. We'll follow a trail out of town to the village of Zrnovo, one of the oldest settlements on the island and known for wine and olive oil making, agriculture, and stonemasonry. The churches of this little village, spread across a relatively large area, are known for the diversity of their different visions and architectural styles. We can stop here for a quick coffee and then proceed into the field to a trail that leads to a magical place known as Kocje. Kocje is a labyrinth of strangely shaped dolomite rocks, overgrown with ivy, surrounded by holm oak and fern. The flora is interwoven in a most delicate way with cave-like spaces between the rocks dressed in moss, seemingly hiding some primordial secrets. Although this protected area is relatively small we'll enjoy spending some time exploring its green corridors, aromatic herbs, or looking for the "Fairies' spring". On the way back from Kocje we pass through Zrnovo again, this time choosing a different route. Along the way we'll sample local products, prepared using traditional recipes and typical local ingredients. We'll have lunch in a small tavern, before returning to our hotel. Overnight Hotel Korcula B, L, D DAY 6 SEPTEMBER 21, FRIDAY Today we explore the Peljesac Peninsula. Taking a ferry to the beginning of our hike, our trail starts in the small village of Viganj. From here we ascend on a rocky trail through vineyards and stone terraces onto a ridge with stunning views of the Adriatic and Korcula. We descend to the port of Orebic, home to a new maritime museum. From there its off to one of the famous Peljesac wine producers. The peninsula is famous for its wines, especially the red wines that grow on steep southern exposed slopes. We'll sample teas made of home- or wild-grown ingredients, small biscuits, cheese, wine, and oil with one of the most-esteemed winemakers of this area, Milos. Our next stop is an oyster farm! We'll learn how oysters, a well-known aphrodisiac, are grown and then have an opportunity to sample them. As we continue our journey, we'll take a short break in the small town of Ston. It is a town with majestic walls, the oldest in Europe, and an old salt processing plant, the pride of the Republic of Dubrovnik. We then continue our journey to majestic Dubrovnik, made famous by Game of Thrones, but always the bestknown destination in Croatia. After checking into our hotel, we'll have time to explore before or after dinner. Overnight Hotel Lero in Dubrovnik B,L,D
6 DAY 7 SEPTEMBER 22, SATURDAY No photos in the world can match viewing Dubrovnik with your own eyes, especially from the amazing perspective of the city walls where you see almost countless red roofs of old stone houses, not to mention the towers, churches and palaces. The Republic of Ragusa, the historic name of Dubrovnik, was an independent state for four and a half centuries. The city's history dates back long before that, however, and new archeological findings suggest it was founded by Greek sailors. The Republic's independence, which was skillfully lead and preciously maintained against the Ottomans and Venetians, ended with the arrival of the Napoleon's troops. History left traces on Dubrovnik and the mentality of its people, as evidenced by amazing architectural, artistic and cultural achievements. On top of everything else, it is situated in a very beautiful part of Croatia with the hinterland only recently being rediscovered and reevaluated on one side and the archipelago of Elafiti islands counting as the Adriatic s finest gems on the other. Today will be both educational and inspiring. After the morning guided tour of the city, we will journey to the hinterland of Dubrovnik where we will learn about the amazing history of the area and visit the fortress Sokolgrad. After lunch at a family owned tavern, we'll visit one of the last places we can still see the process of handmade silk production. In the past silk was a very important material in this area, and we will visit a family who demonstrates the traditional manufacturing process, from the cocoon to the delicate details of traditional costumes from Dubrovnik. Tonight, we'll share one final dinner together, raising a glass to toast each other and our new-found appreciation of Croatian culture, history, and cuisine. B, L, D DAY 8 SEPTEMBER 23, SUNDAY You are free to leave anytime this morning. We'll arrange shuttles to the airport based on departure times.
7 ADDITIONAL TRIP INFORMATION GETTING THERE The trip starts in Split, Croatia at our hotel. Transfer from the airport to the hotel is included regardless of what day you arrive. We will group together everyone who is arriving at similar times and you may have to wait up to 2 hours. Note that the trip starts Split (SPU) and ends in Dubrovnik (DBV). If you are having trouble finding flights, consider flying to London and then taking one of the low cost airlines that flies from there. You may need to change airports in London so be sure to check the arrival and departure flights carefully and leave enough time if you do. The best websites for exploring these possibilities are Skyscanner ( and FlightHub ( If you would like help with any travel plans we recommend our travel agent Barbara Nelson, Scan East West Travel, at bnelson@scaneastwest.com or call ACCOMMODATIONS We will be staying in double occupancy rooms with en suite bathrooms in small 3 star hotels as specified in the itinerary and below. There may be changes to these hotels due to unforeseen circumstances but they will be of similar sytle and comfort. Split Hotel Slavija - Hvar - Hotel Palace - Korcula - Hotel Korcula - Dubrovnik - Hotel Lero - Vegetarian options for this trip are available but may be more limited than you are used to. If you are concerned about having enough protein during your trip, please bring some plant-based protein sources such as nut butter, instant dried hummus, or high-protein energy bars. If you cannot eat gluten or if you have other dietary restrictions i.e. vegan, you will need to bring some supplemental food with you. Please contact the office if this is a potential concern for you. WEATHER High temperatures are typically in the mid-70s during the day and mid-60s at night along the Dalmatian coast. Occasional rain is not uncommon, mostly in the form of light or moderate rain or thunderstorms. All day rain is very unusual. Ocean temperatures are still warm enough for swimming. TRAVEL INSURANCE WE STRONGLY RECOMMEND TRIP CANCELLATION/TRIP INTERRUPTION INSURANCE, WHICH COVERS YOUR COST IF YOU NEED TO CANCEL OR INTERRUPT YOUR TRIP for medical reasons, trip delay, lost baggage, and other unforeseen emergencies. Adventures in Good Company will send you information about travel insurance with your registration information, or you may purchase coverage through your own insurance company. In order to avoid disappointment and expense in the event that you must cancel your trip we strongly urge you to purchase some type of insurance coverage. You can also sign up for it online at Travelex Insurance. To get the best rates, use as your location number on the Get A Quote page.
8 PACKING LIST FOOTWEAR 1 pair of lightweight or midweight hiking boots: boots; they should be well broken in and comfortable 1 pair of comfortable walking shoes, such as athletic shoes or Teva sandals 2-3 pairs of socks (2 should be wool/synthetic) CLOTHING 1-2 pairs of comfortable long pants 2 pairs of shorts: one pair could be a quick-drying nylon 1-2 lightweight, light-colored, long-sleeved shirts to protect you from the sun 2-3 T-shirts or sleeveless shirts 1 pair lightweight long underwear top and bottoms: silk, wool or synthetic equivalent (Capilene, Smartwool, MTS, or polypropylene. NO cotton) 1 fleece jacket or wool sweater 1 rain jacket or parka: coated nylon or a waterproof/breathable fabric like Gore-tex Underwear/nightwear 1 wide-brimmed hat for sun and high fashion 1 or 2 sets of casual clothes for going out to dinner or relaxing Bathing suit EQUIPMENT/ESSENTIALS 1 daypack, 1 pack cover or large plastic bag to line backpack for waterproofing 1 liter water carrying capacity (water bottle or hydration system) Passport and a photocopy of your passport Sunscreen and lip block with SPF of at least 15 Sunglasses (100% UV blocking) and retention strap Capacity to carry 2 liters of water: 2 one-quart water bottles or a hydration system that fits in your pack. If you bring a hydration system for hiking, you may also want to bring 1 water bottle for other times Quick drying pack towel Watch, travel alarm TOILETRIES (small everything) Toothbrush, toothpaste, dental floss, shampoo, contact lens paraphernalia (bring extras), sanitary supplies, soap, shampoo, washcloths (these are often not provided in Europe) Sunscreen and lip protection with sunblock of at least SPF 15 (absolutely essential) Personal medications, if any. If you re taking a prescription drug, bring a copy of the prescription or its generic name Small personal patch kit : Band-Aids, Compeed or Second Skin, moleskin, cloth athletic tape, ibuprofen, personal medications, if any. Individuals allergic to insect bites must bring an anaphylactic kit. NOTE: Individuals allergic to insect bites must bring an anaphylactic kit. Please consult your personal physician. OPTIONAL (not required, personal preference) Camera (extra battery) and film Book, notebook, journal, pencil/pen Trekking Poles (optional but recommended for this trip) Earplugs and eye mask 1 or 2 bandannas
9 NOTES ON PACKING Daypacks: You will need a daypack that is large enough to hold the following items: 1 liter of water, rain gear, lunch/snacks (for the day), warm layer (fleece pullover or vest), lightweight gloves, warm hat and any other desired personal items such as camera, journal, etc. We recommend a daypack with a capacity of between 1600 and 2000 cubic inches or liters, and preferably with a hip belt, padded shoulder straps and lifters, all of which will make your pack much more comfortable. If you re not sure if your pack is large enough, try packing it with everything you need for the day. Footwear: : Well-fitting, sturdy boots or trail shoes are very important to your safety and enjoyment. If you plan to buy new boots, break them in by wearing them around town and taking some short hikes before your trip. For general hiking, lightweight or midweight cordura or leather boots with a Vibram sole work well. If you have weak ankles or are recovering from an ankle injury, get boots that come above the ankle you ll find that this will give you more support in uneven or slippery terrain. Remember to waterproof your boots before the trip. Even boots billed as waterproof need to be treated with a waterproofing product. Clothing: All clothing for active wear should be made from synthetic/synthetic blends, down/down blends or wool/wool blends. NO COTTON for your active wear. The clothing listed on the packing list has been chosen for your specific trip conditions and for its versatility for layering. Layering is the most practical and efficient method of insulating the body. Several layers of varied weight materials provide better insulation than one thick layer of clothing. Also, adding or subtracting layers allows you to adjust to the temperature at your particular level of activity. Raingear: You will need a parka or jacket made of a coated nylon or a waterproof/breathable fabric like Gore-tex, HellyTech, Membrane, H2No, or Ultrex. Be sure it keeps water out. Before making this important purchase, be sure that it fits you properly. It should be large enough to fit over all your layers. In particular, the hood needs to be effective. It should shield your face from the rain and turn with your head. Movement of your arms must not interfere with the hood. Put on your daypack; can you still raise your arms? Your wind/rain pants should be comfortable, allow enough room for your layers, and permit free movement of your legs (for example, can you crouch comfortably?). Partial or full-length leg zippers are useful for easily putting your pants on over your boots. An inexpensive plastic poncho will both leak and tear easily and is not recommended. Hydration: Being able to easily access your water without assistance, so that you can drink frequently, is important to your safety and enjoyment. One method is to have a water bottle attached to your waist strap. Another option is to use a HYDRATION SYSTEM such as CamelBak, Platypus, and MSR bladder bags, which are collapsible water bags with a hose attachment that you drink from. The bags fit inside or outside your pack with the hose positioned over your shoulder so that you can access your water as you hike. Bladder bags can hold 1-3 liters of water. Personal First Aid Kit: Bring a small first aid kit with familiar medicine and first aid supplies you might need. Recommendations include the following: blister or foot remedies like moleskin, Compeed, blister bandages, or similar, a small role of duct tape (always useful!), remedies for respiratory ailments, stomach ailments, sore muscles or joints. The guides will have a first aid kit but having what you know works well for you is a good idea. Trekking Poles: Trekking poles are optional but recommend for this trip. Trekking poles are always recommended for our hiking trips.) Trekking poles contribute to your safety by improving your balance and stability, and to your health by saving stress on your hips and knees. If you are not familiar with trekking poles, read this blog post that addresses the most commonly asked questions: If you are purchasing trekking poles for your trip please make sure they meet the following guidelines: 1. Height of the poles can be adjusted 2. They have an upright (as opposed to cane-like) handle 3. Have wrist straps that can be adjusted.
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