filuran Via Francigena trail tour 2017

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1 filuran Via Francigena trail tour 2017 The Project Already in 2015, I had set up a running challenge, which ran out in June 2017: To run the Italian part of Via Francigena, from the Great St Bernard Pass in the Alps at meters altitude on the border between Switzerland and Italy, and all the way to the countries magnificent capital, Rome. On the paper a killing long trip of km. The route devises a lot of times, so its exact length depends on the choices you make on the way. Henning Bechmann From Denmark Running all his life Personal records, marathon 2.42, half marathon 1.15, 10 km 0.34 Running marathon in, among others Copenhagen, Hamburg, Frankfurt, Barcelona, Berlin, New York Rank 255 in the worlds largest marathon, New York City Marathon 2015 See more on facebook.com/filuranbechmann and on YouTube searching for filuran I have been on such long runs before, but this one was by far the longest. How would it go? Would the body collapse? Was the psyche strong enough to gab over such a task? Could it be done by the concept I m using for these filuran trail tours? filuran trail tours filuran North Sea trail tour km From Skagen in Denmark to the border to Germany in coastal sand or the West Coast path behind the dunes filuran Hærvejen trail tour km From Viborg in Denmark to Hamburg in Germany on Hærvejen in Denmark and on Oksestien in Germany filuran Camino trail tour km From Saint Juan Pied De Port in France to Santiago De Compostela in Spain on the famous pilgrimage route filuran Gudbrandsdalen trail tour km The longest of the pilgrimage routes St Olavs Ways in Norway from Oslo to Trondheim filuran Via Francigena trail tour km From Great St Bernard Pass on the border between Switzerland and Italy and all the way to Rome Packing There was a special thing to be aware of on this tour. I had to start in bitter cold in a mountain pass, which at the same time last year, wasn t open. It was closed by snow. Later I would meet Italy in the middle of the summerheat. The problem was that my very sparse packing, did not allow a lot of

2 clothes, but still had to span over both weather conditions. I simply chose to almost ignore the cold at the start and hoped the best. It should only be the first stages that took place in the Alps. In fact, I only had a waterproof shell jacket and trousers and an ultra thin, hot inner layer, to keep me warm. The rest of my clothes was small parts to when the summerheat set in. Even my sleeping bag was at very thinlayer of bag instead of a decidedly sleeping bag. That leaves med with the the clothes that I started in, one extra set of clothes, sleeping bag, smartphone, creditcard, toothbrush and sunscreen. All in all, I actually managed to get along with the easiest packing ever. Just 3,7 kg, which also was noticeable on the tour. On my last trail tour I left with 4,2 kg, that s just over 4,0 kg, I d rather limit myself to. Rules On such self arranged runs, you can do as you please. I have, however, set some small rules under which I am happy to run. It also means that when I get home, I m feeling that it have been done the right way. Concept Mix between running and adventure with freedom as the keyword You carry all your own package and no help from depots or a car following you Minimum of planning, including no prebooked accommodations Around 60 km per day Minimalistic packing, preferably within 4,0 kg The psychological part Let me tell you right away: It was a damn long run of good and evil and contained some psychological downturn to a degree I had not fully expected. I had this feeling from the start, that I was unable to overlook the tour. Over km are beyond my comprehension and completely impossible to comprehend. Even though I had a long time to think about it, it was nevertheless the feeling I had at the start of the tour and it also became the feeling that influenced the tour the most. It was not the only thing that made the psyche a little thoughtful. As the tour progressed, it was as if the kilometers just were waiting to be completed. They pressed on and became the driving factor, perhaps more than it should be. Sometimes the sport was taken over the experience. The joy was under pressure and were draining my mood for a while. Perhaps it was also very ambitious to bring the concept behind my trail tours up in the mountains, compared to the tours that had taken place in flat Denmark, and at the same time doubling the number of kilometers.

3 Already on stage 3 my mood was under pressure and again massively on stage 5. Then I realized what I was doing and weighted differently. When I before choose to skip the morning coffee to run more kilometers, I now sat down and enjoyed my coffee at the cozy café, which to me really is a little part of Italy s DNA. I also relaxed and drank the ice cold weissbeer at lunch on the many days with 32 degrees and after drinking water and water and water again. I was enjoying being on tour again. The good feeling was back as it should have been from the start. Life on tour One last thing the psyche must live with, is the life on tour. You live in a backpack, you have no place you can call yours, no people you can discuss things with. The rootlessness is noticeable, but is a factor I know from my other trail tours. See here what I wrote on Facebook in the morning at stage 17. The mobile wakes you up. You get up in bed. Looking out. It is still dark. The body tightens everywhere. You are starring around in the room, you have no relation to. The look in your eyes is empty. You are ruthless. Why in the world am I doing this, you ask yourself, but you know the answer yourself. You automatically start putting on sunscreen. You think of the family at home. How are they? Are they alright? Afterwards you do not fully know, where you have given sunscreen, but it must be okay now. You take on your clothes. Luckily it s dry after being washed up last night. You feel clean again with it on, but the backpack is glued with salt from your sweat, so the feeling of being clean lasts only briefly. It doesn t matter. You know it in advance and can t really do anything about it. After brushing your teeth, you look outside again. Is it too dark, so you can have a little breakfast before leaving? No, let s get going. You step out of the door. It is not that dark anyway. The birds are busy and singing loudly. In the beginning you start to walk to get the stiffness out of the body, out of your feet and ankles. After all you just got out of bed. In the meantime, you eat breakfast. After 1 kilometer you start running quietly. Yes! It all works again. It is amazing when you think about how tired you were last night. The sun sends the first rays of light over a mountain far out. The sun makes the world open up. And people as well. No matter how cruel we are to this world, it always wakes up again looking at us with fresh eyes, giving us another chance. That was the answer to my own question from early morning. Here I am running around with freedom in my back pocket, and a fantastic scenery is taking place right in front of me, and nobody is needing me for a while. I can just enjoy the moment and be glad that I m alive! Experiences The psyche became an important aspect of this tour, so it might seem a bit problematic. But there were really many joys and experiences all days. The scenery was amazing! Really! The rocks of the Alps and

4 the changing weather up there. I m crazy with the rocks! You are so alive up there. But also running into the vineyards on the hillsides. The beautiful landscape of Tuscany, that I loved at first sight. The rivers. The mornings when the sun rose. The old proud cities and their buildings and castles. All the nights I spend in fine cozy places. I have never been to Italy before, so I was ready for everything that it could offer, and I really got what I came for. Here is a bit from stage 14 about Tuscany: This is simply too inviting. The morning sun looking over the mountains far out, sending its orange shine down the hilltops with golden cornfields and green vinplants standing in a row. In the old town, Gambassi Terme, cactuses were growing up a house wall, next to a proud doorstep. Above the door, on second floor, a cat had laid its head hanging out of the window to lick some of the orange sunshine. Nature is quite picturesque such a morning. You may clearly notice my enthusiasm. That s because it s my first time in this bootshaped country. Finally, there were some strange situations. Here is a funny one from stage 12: They must have laughed all night, when a tired pilgrim reserved a room for a good night s sleep. At nighttime the town of Camaiore held a town festival, and it took place at the square right in front of the hotel. Here I lay for half a night with noise and live music in my ears, and could not fall asleep. Next morning I didn t got up at the right time. But one accident rarely comes alone. After my morning coffee, I was ready to go, but I couldn`t get out. The staff had locked me inside the hotel! Everything was locked up and there s grid in front of all the windows. Well, that couldn t be right. I talked to the staff about leaving early, and they even told me, where I could eat breakfast, because there was no staff at that time of the day. I walked around the hotel, and finally I sat down at the front desk. I looked around in some drawers. I found a key, but it didn t fit the front door. But it suited the door to the hotel restaurant. Here I looked for alarms, and despite signs for it, there wasn t any. Here I could get out on the street. Out here I couldn t give back the key in a mailbox or something like that, so I lay it in the restaurant, instead of locking the door. I was expecting af phone call for a long time after that, but nothing happened. Behind schedule The psychological challenges really came into play, when I reached stage 9. For the first time on all my trail tours, I was behind schedule. It was only 6 kilometers, but next day it became 16 kilometers. There was a crisis. Both days I couldn t get accommodation further on the route. Stage 12, however, was the deadlocked for the tour. While I was waiting for lunch at a restaurant in the middle of the day in the big city, Lucca, I would look in my guidebook to see, what accommodationopportunities I had. I had no one. No one at all! There were nothing available. Non of the places listed in my guidebook and non on my list of additional options, I had downloaded at home. I searched not only the next city on the route, but the next 2 cities. It didn t help. I was stuck in Lucca! That was very hard for me to understand. All

5 of a sudden, I was 43 kilometers behind schedule, and now it was doubtful to reach Rome in time. A very bad day! Gave up my goal I was not satisfied how things were going, but I couldn t do that much about it. I had to think it all over again, and waited to the next morning to decide what to do. The next day I made a final decision to drop the goal in Rome and end in the big, and also beautiful, city of Siena. Then I could come home in time to take part in my sons graduation and say hello to my daughter, who had come home from a trip around the world while I was gone. There were about 120 kilometers to Siena, that would be 2 running days, and there is an airport too, from where I could get home. I had no problem with my body, so it was okay to run a little longer. After the days running, it was time to book my flight home. At that time, my fingers stiffened. I couldn t grab the phone to book me on a plane home. It simply was not possible at the very end to give up. I simply couldn t! The essential plan I had given myself a day off, when I arrived in Rome. When I got home, I had a Sunday before I was going to work again. Both days were involved in the efforts to save the tour. Kilometers were multiplied and days were divided. It should be possible to come to Rome anyway! It would first be on Sunday, and I didn t know if I could get at plain home, to get to work in time. I didn t even look, because I really wanted to reach Rome. With this new gameplan, my mindset was really decided to run the last part. Even though the tour ended 117 kilometers longer than expected, actually 2 running days, there were no problem in running to the great city of Rome. Of course the remaining kilometers were also easier to deal with psychologically. After unbeatable kilometers with psychological ups and downs, after life on tour for 20 days, after running in mountains with snow and cold weather and after endless days of running in typically 32 degrees, I ended up in Rome anyway. The goal was achieved! It was a relieved and very proud runner, that entered the square in front of the Peters Church. A runner who made I possible. A runner who found solutions all the time. A runner who won the battle over himself. A runner who might came a little bit closer to his own limits!

6 This was how the days went by Stage 1 Great St Bernard Pass to Chatillon 67,7 kilometers Stage 2 Chatillon to Borgofranco D Ivrea 59,3 kilometers Stage 3 Borgofranco D Ivrea to San Germano Vercellese 62,4 kilometers Stage 4 San Germano Vercellese to Abbazia Di San Alcuino 56,4 kilometers Stage 5 Abbazia Di San Alcuino to Belgioioso 70,6 kilometers Stage 6 Belgioioso to Peacenza 61,8 kilometers Stage 7 Piacenza to Fidenza 54,5 kilometers Stage 8 Fidenza to Cassio 59,6 kilometers Stage 9 Cassio to Pontremoli 41,0 kilometers A really magnificent start. Ice cold and demanding. Ice on the lake and snow on the route up to just below your knees. Great to run in this terrain. After period off the route, had to climb and swim across a river with a lot of stream, to get back on track. Hurt my hand. The day ended with sore legs after descending from the Alps and blisters, one on each heel. A hard day! Very hilly day to and the route also going uphill. Still in the Alps. Nice race through vineyards on the hillsides. The day ended with the mountains stopping on both sides of the Aosta Valley at the same time. A strange sight A lot more flat with rice fields as far as the eye could see and on endless gravel roads with loose stones. Not the best for a runner. The terrain had little influence on the psyche. The inspiration was not there, especially in the morning Great morning with sunrise and by the way many mosquitoes. Still flat terrain and rice fields. Got the last bed in connection with a church. Dormitory and all eating together. Optional donation as payment. Was quickly named marathoni and ironman. Nice with some people around Hostel mother up early to make breakfast for her marathoni. In spite of more varied landscape now, more trouble with the psyche, by being on tour. Time for morning coffee to solve the situation a little. Beautiful river before Pavia, a big city. Looked for accommodation in the middle of the day, but nothing to get. Ran on anyway and hoped the best. Long day before something appeared Hang a little moody again from the start of the day, but by area with old bridge, river and nice surface to run on, everything became easy. As part of the route, you could be sailed a bit on the river Po. The ferryman was angry when I called him, because I did not speak Italian. He didn t want to sail. At the river I contacted him again, but it ended with a detour on a dike in the very hot sun. After the dike was a town where I ordered something to eat. Talked to a young couple, but they interrupted when my food was ready. He came back shortly afterwards, informing that they were representatives of the organization behind Via Francigena. He wanted to tell my story, so he could publish it. That s what I m doing now A nice day. Mountains start to emerge again. Must be a part of the tour tomorrow Running in the mountain. A fantastic day. Very hot! Narrow paths, rocky landscapes. Some places almost irresponsibly steep and at high risk of falling. A hard day for the body. Really nice accommodation. A hole home in old style to myself. Fireplace and Italian country kitchen. Price EUR 16. There were food in the kitchen Decided to shorten my day to accommodate my feet. In the mountains again. Morning coffee at the cathedral in Berceto. Crossed the both famous and dangerous mountain pass, Passo Delle Cisa, where pilgrims were attacked by robbers. Earlier the trees were sown down in height, so the robbers could not easily hide. In Pontremoli I asked a lady for accommodation. She had an apartment in the old town not far from there. Again it was a very old style with a front door like a castle and a bathtub on feet. Price EUR 15. Nice! Now I m halfway according to my own reports, although the guidebook doesn t completely agree. Now in

7 Stage 10 Pontremoli to Santo Stefano Di Magra 49,9 kilometers Stage 11 Santo Stefano Di Magra to Camaiore 62,9 kilometers Stage 12 Camaiore to Lucca 29,7 kilometers Stage 13 Lucca to Coiano 63,3 kilometers Stage 14 Coiano to Monteriggioni 60,8 kilometers Stage 15 Monteriggioni to Buonconvento 52 kilometers Stage 16 Buonconvento to Radicofani 56,1 kilometers Stage 17 Radicofani to Bolsena 48,8 kilometers Tuscany. For the first time ever on my trail tours, I m behind schedule, but only 6 kilometers Morning in very remote forest and running on rocks. 30 degrees. Came to Lusuoli, a beautiful town with wall around. Afternoon with thunder and a little rain. Now 16 kilometers behind schedule, which worries a lot! This morning the route was along a big trafical road. With a flashing headlight I was claiming the outer 20 cm white strip of the road for some kilometers. After Sarzana I saw the sea from the mountainside, where I where quite a while. Good views. In Pietrasanta umbrellas were hanging over the commercial street. Looking good! In Camaiore I had freshly made pasta from a store, that made nothing but fresh pasta variants. Best pasta ever! Town festival just outside the hotel, so hard to fall asleep Too little sleep. Didn t get up as planned. Then found out that the hotel staff had locked me in. I couldn t get out. Finally found a key, but was even more late. Lunch in Lucca. Found out that there were no accommodations 2 cities ahead on the route. Stocked in Lucca. Loosing many kilometers and now 43 kilometers behind schedule. Critical to reach Rome in time. Considering strongly dropping goal and stopping in Siena Psychologically down after yesterday. Many thoughts about dropping the goal and now decided to do so! Great part of the day on the hillside. One of the best days on the tour. On Sundays you go to church here and roads are decorated with pictures and flowers. Suddenly there were people on the side of the road and then caravans of cars. There was a bicycle ride. Again fantastic accommodation in the country side with a whole house for myself in old style and a pool. Could not make myself dropping Rome after all. New plan. All in! A great day. Psychologically back again with a new plan and beautiful landscape. Tuscany at its best! I truly love it! Morning coffee in old cozy Cambassi Terme and lunch in San Gimignano, a really great town to. I was having trouble in Colle Di Val D Elsa, where I couldn t raise money. Only EUR 3 in my pocket, so really necessary. Only possible after several attempts and the whole city around several times. Took 3 hours to move on. Accommodation in the dormitory in connection to a church in the most beautiful fortress town of them all, which you could see on a hilltop far away. All buildings within the walls Started in forrest before it became Siena, a big city. Morning coffee was the best thing about this city. I was ready to move on. Afterwards again beautiful Tuscany at its very best! At the end of the day, hot stretch along railroad. At the hotel a radio station called for a live interview Very deserted day with nature in Tuscany, but I love it. Beautiful and hot! First time too little to eat during the day. Not good! Rome is now on the road signs. Not bad! Accommodation at a hotel with stunning countryside view. In bathtub with a cold beer. Good for feet and the rest of filuran After 10 kilometers morning coffee in Ponte A Rigo. Passed sign telling I m running out of Tuscany. Got pain in the tendon that raises the left foot. Worried! Came to huge lake after lunch. A nice sight. At the end of the day, a really nice and old town by the lake. Met a guy from Belgium who knew the town and accommodations. I suggested a beer together on the square of the town in front of the place where I was to sleep.

8 Stage 18 Bolsena to Vatrella 58,5 kilometers Stage 19 Vetrella to Campagnano Di Roma 60,6 kilometers Stage 20 Compagnano Di Roma to Rome 46,2 kilometers Total of 20 days Great St Bernard Pass to Rome Total of 1.123,1 kilometers That was an old renovated castle with a tower staircase up to my room. Again really nice and cozy Problems with the tendon in the feet almost gone! Montefiasconi very nice city at the end of the big lake. Then more flat terrain. Vitterbo also great city. Accommodation in connection with church with dormitory. Dining together after table prayer. Nice with some people around. Now about 80 kilometers to Rome. Annoying distance. Too long for 1 day and almost too short for 2 days Started in huge hazelnut plantations. In a long valley with forest, 2 walkers came using donkey to carry their pickup, like they did for hundred years ago. Again a hot day with 32 degrees. Early lunch in Sutri. Early dinner in Monterosi. Ended up with accommodation, where they promised far more than they could hold for example, that it was placed at the route. Another thing was the prize. It was EUR 120, but we agreed on EUR 80, but I was not satisfied. It was a nice place indeed, but a luxury I don t need Through a park with loose animals. Morning coffee in Formello. Through fields with loose cows. Long snake crosses a forest road and up a cliff. Large park area before Isola Farnese and La Storta. In hilly park you could look down on Rome and for the first time see the goal, the Peters Church. Reaches it about days more than expected, but also 117,1 kilometers longer. I didn t get back on work in time!