M A D A G A S C A R A W o r l d A p a r t T u e 1 5 M a y - F r i 0 8 J u n e

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1 M A D A G A S C A R A W o r l d A p a r t T u e 1 5 M a y - F r i 0 8 J u n e Formerly a landlocked plateau in the centre of Gondwanaland, Madagascar became marooned when that ancient landmass split into the island continents of Australia, Antarctica, South America and Africa. Separated by the Mozambique Channel from Africa s eastern coast about 65 million years ago, Madagascar developed in isolation. Its natural history is unique. The world s fourth largest island is another Galápagos, referred to by some ecologists as the eighth continent. Eighty percent of Malagasy plants and animals are endemic, rivalling Brazil in its biodiversity. Archaeologists believe that people first arrived in Madagascar from Indonesia/Malaya about 2000 years ago and although they have eliminated some species they haven t dominated nature: there s simply too much of it. Eight whole plant families exist only on Madagascar, as do almost 1000 orchid species, many thousands of succulents, countless insects, at least 350 species of frog, around 370 kinds of reptile, five families of birds and approaching 200 different mammals including lemurs, the prosimians who comprise an entire branch of the primate family tree, the order to which we ourselves belong. Australian Museum Members offer interesting and worthwhile travel experiences. Our Madagascar itinerary has been carefully designed with input from our leader Dr Steven Goodman to showcase the array of animals and plants that bless Madagascar today. Fauna and flora, complex habitats and human colonisation all combine to make Madagascar a powerful and worthwhile travel experience. Please consider joining us on Australian Museum Members Madagascar: A World Apart P R O G R A M L E A D E R Resident in Madagascar since 1989, Dr Steven Goodman is an expert in Malagasy biodiversity and is recognised as one of the country s finest field biologists. As well as discovering dozens of new species himself (the mouse lemur Microcebus lehilahytsara is named after him from the Malagasy word for good man ) Steve has trained or brought into the field Malagasy biologists who have added hundreds more. Steve is a staff member of the Field Museum of Natural History of Chicago and, when not on field expeditions, is based at the University of Antananarivo where he lectures and supervises graduate students. He is a founding member of the Vahatra Association, recognised as one of the leading centres of high quality scientific research in Madagascar. Working with World Wildlife Fund Madagascar, Steve created the Ecological Training Program (ETP) which was the first of its kind, now replicated elsewhere in Africa. Steve is looking forward to sharing his knowledge, experience and insights with AMM participants on this comprehensive tour of Madagascar.

2 Itinerary tail less and the largest of the lemur family. When David Attenborough came searching for indris in the late 1950s he spent several days plodding through the forest and listening to their raucous call before catching a glimpse of them. Nowadays, Andasibe visitors who get an early start will almost certainly observe them at fairly close range. Optimum time is about an hour after daybreak. The remainder of the afternoon is spent acclimatising ourselves to the Andasibe experience and beginning our exploration. Dinner tonight at Vakona Forest Lodge. (B D) Day#3 Thu 17 May Andasibe Mantadia NP Day#1 Tue 15 May Sydney Réunion Our Air Austral flight UU772 departs Sydney late morning and arrives at Réunion s Roland Garros airport early evening. We are transferred to the island s capital, St Denis and our stopover hotel, the Best Western St Denis. (Meals in flight) Day#2 Wed 16 May Réunion Antananarivo Andasibe Mantadia NP We transfer to the airport for our Air Austral flight UU205 to Madagascar departing at 11:05. To minimise culture shock, a relaxing start to our program away from the city is recommended. We are met by Dr Steve Goodman and drive the 140 kilometers (which will take about three hours) to Andasibe Mantadia National Park, stopping en route at Marozevo for a short visit of Pereyras private reserve and at Andasibe village for a look at typical Malagasy village life. Formerly known by its colonial name of Périnet Reserve, Andasibe Mantadia NP is a block of moist montane forest extremely rich in flora and fauna, reputably containing a higher number of frog species than any comparable rainforest on earth. We arrive and check into Vakona Forest Lodge for a two night stay. Like Berenty, Andasibe Mantadia NP has an eerie Lac Vert (Green Lake) and an orchid garden. But the undisputed highlight of the park is the Indri indri, standing about a metre high, almost 2 Full day in Andasibe NP with our guides. There are nine species of lemur in Andasibe although we will not see them all. It is worthwhile going on a nocturnal lemur hunt (the Park guides are expert at this) to look for mouse lemurs and the greater dwarf lemur which hibernate during the cold season. Of course, other exquisite creatures are to be found in Andasibe: there are spiny and furred tenrecs, beautiful and varied insects and spiders as well as lots of reptiles. Parson s chameleon, bright green and, at half a metre long one of Madagascar s largest, lives here. Here also is the smallest chameleon, Calumma nasutus. This is additionally a great place for birdwatching. We dine this evening at our Lodge. (B D) Day#4 Fri 18 May Andasibe NP Antananarivo Travel back along the RN2 to Antananarivo, visiting Analamazaotra NP en route. Check in to the Hotel Colbert. (B D) Day#5 Sat 19 May Antananarivo Antsirabe Our road journey through the centre begins. We proceed south along the Route Nationale 7 (RN7) which bisects the southern part of the island and along the way we see Merina tombs and labour intensive rice paddy cultivation. After about three hours (169km) of varied highland scenery we arrive in Antsaribe. Founded by Norwegian missionaries in 1872 as a health retreat, Antsirabe later became popular with French colons as both a spa town and a hill station. Elegant and sprawling, Antsirabe at 1500 metres altitude, is a cool contrast from Tana. After a visit to nearby turquoise Lake Tritriva, we check into the La Residence Sociale d Antsirabe, one of Madagascar s most distinctive establishments in both size and architectural style. Located

3 just before the broad Grande Avenue and its handsome (but sadly now unused) railway station, it s a distinctive, large building with art deco touches. Antsirabe is known for gemstones and has a thriving handicrafts sector; we will explore some workshops and the central city during the afternoon. This is the pousse pousse (rickshaw) capital of Mada and hundreds of them abound. Dinner, as usual, is at our hotel. (B D) Day#6 Sun 20 May Antsirabe Ambositra We depart Antsirabe and drive for about two hours to Ambositra (pronounced amboostr ). Ambositra is the centre of Mada s woodcarving industry there will be opportunities to purchase if you so wish. Our main activity today, however, is to visit the village of Soatanana, 38 spotted high up in the forest canopy. You should also look out for red bellied lemur which live in couples with their offspring and red fronted brown lemur which live in large groups. Ranomafana is a birding hotspot but finding birds in the dense forest can be very tricky an early morning start is essential. Evening nocturnal visits are organised here in designated areas in the forest where bananas are offered to lure the mouse lemur and meat to attract the striped civet. Numerous geckos, chameleons, frogs and butterflies are also on hand. Our accommodation is at Centre Est Sejour, nicely located in Ranomafana village overlooking the Namorona River and with all facilities. (B D) kilometers west and nestled in picturesque rice paddies surrounded by granite peaks. The region has the largest remaining area of tapia forest in Madagascar; tapia is the staple diet of the endemic silkworm and the women here have traditionally produced exceptionally fine silk cloth. This activity had suffered a decline but in recent years NGOs have been active in encouraging the revival of silk production and weaving in the village. We will be able to meet the lady weavers and see all the stages of silk production from the cocoon to weaving, including dyeing of the threads using natural dyes. The ladies also provide us with a typical Malagasy meal for lunch. Back to the Artisan Hotel for dinner and overnight. (B L D) Day#7 Mon 21 May Ambositra Ranomafana NP Today our destination is Ranomafana National Park, a drive of 350 kilometers. We leave behind dry highland vegetation and move into greenery, flowers and stands of virgin rainforest. Ranomafana National Park was created in 1991 and is particularly rich in wildlife. Here you may be lucky and see three species of bamboo lemur (out of the four found in Madagascar). The most common is the lesser bamboo lemur which you may have already seen in Andasibe. The greater bamboo lemur is very rare and only known in two locations, you may find them by hearing the crack of big bamboo stems as they feed. The star of Ranomafana is the golden bamboo lemur which was only discovered in 1986 (researchers were trying to find the greater bamboo lemur). A diet of bamboo tips containing cyanide may be responsible for their golden fur. The largest lemur in the park is the elusive Milne Edwards sifaka, often Day#8 Tue 22 May Ranomafana NP Day and torchlight nocturnal walks continue in the Park with our guides. There are standard routes in the forest, most taking a few hours. Animals are the main attraction but the vegetation is thick, varied and spectacular: orchids, tree ferns, palms and thick groundcover mingle with an impressive variety of flowering plants and groves of bamboo. Another night at Centre Est Sejour. (B D) Day#9 Wed 23 May Ranomafana NP Ambalavao Tsaranoro Valley We depart Ranomafana and continue along the RN7. We soon reach Fianarantsoa ( place of good learning ). Founded in 1830 as the administrative capital of Betsileo, Fianar is built on a hill, like a small scale Antananarivo, with an attractive Upper Town. After exploring we continue our trek to the south, passing through vineyards and terraced rice paddies. We pass the giant rock formation Tanan Andriamanitra ( Hand of God ) which marks the beginning of some of the finest mountain scenery in Madagascar. We soon arrive for lunch and a walk in the favourite highlands town of Ambalavao. Ambalavao is the original home of the famous Malagasy Antaimoro paper, a papyrus type of paper impregnated with dried flowers. The scenery beyond Ambalavao is spectacular with huge granite domes dominating grassy plains. Along the way we stop at the Anja Reserve with its interesting Betsileo history, unusual plants and more cheeky ringtail lemurs. We proceed to our isolated but comfortable accommodation at Camp Catta, dramatically located in the valley between Tsaranoro Mountain (800m) on one side and the mountain chains of Andringitra National Park on the other. (B L D) 3

4 Day#10 Thu 24 May Tsaranoro Valley Day at leisure. However, many guided walks are available in the beautiful mountains. Easy walks will take you into a sacred forest inhabited by catta lemurs, to a waterfall, a natural swimming pool, and nearby Barabory villages. The Barabory live a traditional, rustic Malagasy life, with the weather, the sun and the rice harvest keeping time. Should you wish there are slightly more strenuous walks that will take you to Mount Chameleon. (B L D) Day#11 Fri 25 May Tsaranoro Valley Isalo NP We leave the mountains and experience the transition to the Horombe Plains. Ihosy (pronounced ee oosh ), homeland of the Bara tribe, is reached after about five hours and we continue the additional 97 kilometres to the small town of Ranohira, the base for visitors to Isalo National Park. The Isalo National Park contains interesting wildlife lemurs, other mammals and birds plus rare endemic plants but these are not the main reason for a visit. The Isalo Massif extends over thousands of hectares and, over millenia, wind and rain have cut the sandstone into ravines, labyrinths, grottoes, cliffs, gorges and canyons, a landscape locally known by the French term ruiniforme. We stop here for two nights at Satrana Lodge, sleek luxury tented accommodation, each with private facilities. (B D) Day#12 Sat 26 May Isalo NP Full day for continued exploration at Isalo NP The spectacular physical environment (reminiscent of Turkey s Capadoccia region) creates a special atmosphere, a combination of isolation and deep silence. (B D) Day#13 Sun 27 May Isalo NP Toliara This morning we depart Isalo National Park and proceed towards Toliara on the west coast, a journey of about four hours. Dramatic arid landscapes start becoming apparent. The extraordinary sapphire mining settlement of Ilakaka, with its Wild West atmosphere, is visited along the way. Some charming villages such as Mahafaly and Antandroy can be seen en route plus an impressive number of painted roadside tombs. Closer to Toliara we visit the Arboretum d Antsokay, established in 1980 by Swiss born botanist Hermann Pétignat. As we proceed, Toliara s table mountain, La Table, looms on our right and stands of baobab trees start to be seen. On arrival we settle into our lodgings for the night, the Victory Hotel. (B D) Day#14 Mon 28 May Toliara Fort Dauphin Berenty After breakfast we transfer to Toliara airport for a morning flight to Tana where we connect with our flight to Taolagnaro (more commonly known as Fort Dauphin), beautifully sited on a small peninsula. After lunch at the Hotel Dauphin we drive along a spectacular road for 89 kilometres to the renowned Berenty Private Reserve (Réserve Privée de Berenty), en route seeing typical flora (such as pitcher plants and rare triangular palms, tombs and villages. Berenty was established in 1936 by sisal planter, Henri de Heaulme, who felt that a stand of gallery forest along the banks of the Mandrare River was worth preserving for its own sake. The reserve has now passed to his son Jean de Heaulme who in 1985 was awarded the World Wildlife Fund s Getty Prize for nature preservation. Here we stay at Berenty Lodge. Berenty means big eel but lemurs are what most people come here for: brown lemur, ring tailed lemur and sifaka. But there s much more and one of Berenty s most enjoyable features is its selection of broad forest trails that allow safe exploration on your own, both during daylight and at night. Many of the creatures are nocturnal and in the evening are easy to spot with a torch. (B L D) Day#15 Tue 29 May Berenty Private Reserve Full day in the Reserve. An ideal opportunity for some great photographs as these lemurs are highly photogenic and are often only within a few feet of you. Throughout the day a variety of pleasant walks are possible throughout the Reserve and along the banks of the river; a variety of night walks are also available with the possibility of spotting the white footed sportive lemur and also the grey mouse lemur. Other interests in the Reserve include flying foxes, nearly 100 different species of birds and also one of the best ethnological museums on the island. (B L D) 4

5 Day#16 Wed 30 May Berenty Fort Dauphin After breakfast we drive back to Fort Dauphin. Settle into our hotel La Croix du Sud, owned by the obiquitous de Heaulmes; most of Fort Dauphin belongs to this prominent family. In the afternoon, we enjoy a walking tour of this laidback, beautifully located coastal town. (B D) Day#17 Thu 31 May Fort Dauphin Antananarivo Mid morning flight back to Tana. Very early flight to Diego Suarez tomorrow morning so we stay at Au Bois Vert, a hotel very close to the airport. (B D) Day#18 Fri 01 June Antananarivo Diego Suarez Short drive to Tana airport for our flight to Diego Suarez, also known as Antsiranana. Most people still call the town Diego. Diego has a superb harbour encircled by hills and has an unusually cosmopolitan population. North of Place Foch is the old colonial precinct with an atmosphere of faded French occupation; south of this central point is the colour and bustle of the Malagasy quarter. Diverse attractions abound and our walking tour will uncover some interesting aspects of Mada s fifth largest town. Our base here in the far north is the comfortable Hotel Allamanda. Good choice of restaurants in Diego so own arrangements for dinner. (B) Day#19 Sat 02 June Montagne d'ambre NP Full day excursion to visit Montagne d'ambre NP, located of river fed forest with their own perfectly protected flora and fauna. The caves and rivers are also home to crocodiles. The reserve is known not only for its many lemur species, including crowned and Sanford s brown lemurs but also for birds, reptiles and insects. More than 350 plant species grow in Ankarana. Back to Diego Suarez by the end of the afternoon. Dinner at our hotel. (B D) Day#21 Mon 04 June Diego Suarez Antananarivo Unstructured time in Diego Suarez before our flight to Tana. Unstructured afternoon and own arrangements for dinner either in the Colbert or in nearby restaurants. (B) Day#22 Tue 05 June With its brightly coloured houses stacked up on the surrounding hillsides, Tana is a distinctive capital. Rice paddies nestle up to the city fringe; mauve jacarandas, purple bougainvillea and red crown of thorn euphorbias contrast against red clay walls. Today we take a guided tour of the city including Association Vahatra, Dr Steve Goodman s headquarters. Also on our schedule is Ambohimanga Palace. Here began the line of kings and queens who were to unite Madagascar into one country and it was here that they returned for rest and recreation in this tranquil hilltop village. Visit the artisans market on our way back to Tana, perhaps for purchases that may have been previously overlooked. Farewell dinner scheduled this evening at Villa Vanille with traditional music. (B D) Day#23 Wed 06June Antananarivo Réunion Transfer to Tana s Ivato airport. We fly to Réunion by Air Austral flight UU206 departing Tana at 16:35 and arrive in Réunion at 18:55. We are transferred to St Denis and our stopover hotel, the Best Western St Denis. (B) Day#24 Thu 07 June Depart Réunion After breakfast we transfer to the airport for our Air Austral flight UU771 departing at 13:35. (B Meals in flight) Day#25 Fri 08 June Arrive Sydney Early morning Sydney arrival scheduled for 06:05. near Joffreville, about 27 kilometers southwest of Diego. Montagne d'ambre NP is an isolated patch of montane rainforest that rises from the surrounding dry region. The park is as exciting for its plants as for its animals. Tree ferns, epiphytes, strangler figs all add to the spectacle; lemurs include Sanford s brown lemur and the crowned lemur; reptiles, especially chameleons, are prominent and our guides should be able to find some of the tiny Brookesia chameleons. We return to Diego by the end of the afternoon. Dinner own arrangements. (B L) Day#20 Sun 03 June Ankarana NP Long day excursion to Ankarana NP. a limestone massif 90 kilometers south of Diego. An amazing island of tsingy (limestone karst pinnacles) and forest, the massif is penetrated by a labryinth of caves and canyons. Some of the largest caves have collapsed, forming isolated pockets 5

6 GENERAL INFORMATION AND SPECIAL BOOKING CONDITIONS Cost per person, twin-share $ Single room supplement $ Land only cost Antananarivo Antananarivo $ TOUR PRICE INCLUDES: Economy class air travel with Air Austral from Sydney to Antananarivo and return Air Madagascar economy class air travel within Madagascar All applicable passenger and airport taxes 23 nights twin-share accommodation in comfortable hotels and tented accommodation with private facilities as indicated in the itinerary or of a similar standard. Meals as shown in the itinerary: B signifies breakfast; L signifies lunch; D signifies dinner All transfers, entrance fees and sightseeing as per the itinerary All applicable tipping for group arrangements Services of program leader Dr Steven Goodman plus professional English speaking Malagasy guide in Madagascar Program Handbook NOT INCLUDED: Travel Insurance Items of personal nature (telephone, laundry etc) Visa Fee I M INTERESTED...HOW DO I BOOK? Complete, sign and return the enclosed Heritage Destinations Travel Booking Form with your deposit of $500 per person. Upon receipt of your Booking Form and deposit, you will receive a confirmation of your place. DEPOSIT AND FINAL PAYMENT: The deposit is accepted as a first instalment of the tour cost and will be fully refunded if the arrangements cannot be confirmed or the tour is cancelled by Australian Museum Members. Final payment for the tour needs to be received at least 60 days prior to tour departure. We will send you an invoice before this date. AMENDMENTS: If you would like Heritage Destinations to assist you with any add-on travel arrangements pre or post tour, please advise us at least 30 days prior to your departure. Any changes to travel arrangements within 30 days may incur an amendment fee of AUD30, plus any charges imposed by our suppliers. FORCED CANCELLATION: In the event that passenger numbers do not reach the minimum number of tour participants (approximately 10 excluding the tour leader) required for the tour, it may be necessary to either surcharge or cancel the tour. If such an event does occur, you will be notified at least 60 days prior to the tour departure. TRAVEL INSURANCE: At the time of booking and paying your deposit, we strongly recommend that you purchase a good personal travel insurance policy. Ensure it is appropriate for your entire travel arrangements as well as providing for cancellation charges detailed on this page. A comprehensive travel insurance policy is available from Heritage Destinations. PASSPORT AND VISAS: Australian passport holders require a visa for a stay in Madagascar for up to 28 days. This must be issued in Australia before your departure and the visa cost is $ Your passport should be valid for six months beyond the end of your journey. It should have two clear pages for each country to be visited to allow for entry and exit stamps en route or for any visas applicable for other countries in your journey. We will provide you with visa application forms and advice regarding obtaining your visa. PRICES: The tour price has been calculated on the basis of exchange rates and tariffs valid at the time of print (September 2011) and are subject to change up until your final payment has been invoiced. Once your final invoice has been issued and payment subsequently received, no surcharges will apply. Should you decide to cancel your tour on the basis on a change of price, normal cancellation charges will apply. FINAL DOCUMENTATION: All documentation will be ready approximately four weeks prior to your tour departure. If you are leaving Australia earlier, please advise us so we can prepare all your final documentation before your departure. PERSONAL FITNESS LEVEL Participants should be prepared for easy to moderate walking on uneven pavements, tracks and paths and sometimes extended standing at indoor and outdoor sites. On occasions, steep stair climbing may be required at some sites, but usually is not compulsory. Contact Heritage Destinations for discussion if required. We draw your attention to the Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade website which contains relevant information regarding travel to Madagascar. CANCELLATION AND REFUNDS: Should you decide to cancel your booking up to 60 days prior to departure, your deposit is fully refundable less an administration fee of $50.00 per person. Because of the tour cancellation charges imposed by our various suppliers, the following cancellation charges apply: Over 60 days $50 administration fee days 25% of tour cost days 50% of tour cost Within 10 days 100% of tour cost If a difference occurs between these cancellation conditions and those imposed by our suppliers, then the conditions of the supplier shall apply. There is no refund before or after travel has commenced or for any unused portion of the tour, either in regard to the standard group arrangements or separate independent arrangements. For further information contact Ray Boniface Global Links Pty Ltd trading as H E R I T A G E D E S T I N A T I O N S PO Box U237 University of Wollongong NSW 2500 Australia p: m: e: heritagedest@bigpond.com ABN Lic No TAG1747