19 April Chengdu Over cast and 32degree C today. Pleasant. Things to do Chengdu

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1 recce report 1

2 19 April Chengdu Over cast and 32degree C today. Pleasant. The Rally will start at the Chengdu Hotel Shangri- La, one of an international hotel chain. The hotel has all the necessary facilities in the rooms, several bars, places to eat, business centre and spa. Secure underground parking will be allocated for the rally and there are petrol stations nearby. Just over the road is an area called Bar-Street for those who want to venture out after dinner, it s a very pleasant walk. The city of 16 million people is vast, incorporating high-rise blocks that go on for miles and an impressive main square with one of the few remaining statues of Chairman Mao. There are not many historic buildings but the remaining few can be easily found in the parks. On the road we found that traffic is not as disciplined as in Europe but it all flows pretty well with the liberal use of horns. People will switch lanes and join from a side roads without giving way if they see a gap which does take a little getting used to. Generally roads are immaculately maintained with plenty of room, traffic not too fast with highways and trains overhead on huge concrete structures. If you do venture out with your car then parking is available on the streets. Sichuan regional food is world famous for the liberal use of herbs and the very potent Sichuan pepper. The food is varied and good quality. You will have the opportunity to choose your own venue and the menus have fantastic items including frogs and snakes, goose web and chicken feet, rabbit heads, spicy dishes and traditional hotpots. Sweet, sour, bitter, spicy and salty you will find it all and often on one plate! Chengdu was voted as a Unesco city of gastronomy With a quick visit to the Museum of Gastronomy, where we were shown the history of the regional 2 culinary processes including huge vats / urns of gloop that is on the way to becoming soya sauce and spicy pickle, and a visit to an out of town food hall, our day was complete. Things to do Chengdu If you have time in Chengdu to venture out alone then do make a trip to The Peoples Park. It s not really about the very lovely gardens but more of the people who you will find in distinct areas of the park, one for ladies to exercise together using dance, one for elderly musicians and area known as couples corner. This is where generally young ladies but sometimes men write their cvs and advertise for a spouse on a sheet of A4. They even say which profession they would prefer to meet and there is a definite feeling of panic from them and their parents when they reach the ripe old age of 30. Once the interested party has made contact the parents of the love match meet up to make sure they approve. We weren t told how often a positive match is made. The park is also used by hundreds of grandparents on daily childcare duties and is very social with wonderful tea houses where you have a large flask and stay as long as you like. The park also had a significant statue marking the role of Chengdu in the downfall of the royals and change in culture revolution. Pandas of cause are synonymous with this region and there will be an opportunity to visit the research centre. The Panda Research Centre is excellent but so very busy so get there early. The City tours including the Anshan Bridge which impressed Marco Polo back in 13th Century and is very close to the time honoured Hejiang Pavilion Chengdu IFS luxury shopping experience Lan Kwai Fong, a trendy expat district with great shops and wonderful restaurants In Chengdu near the hotel you can also find the usual range of international brands so don t panic if you need to do a little last minute shopping.

3 April 20 Chengdu 28 degrees and & cloudy with high humidity. First thing this morning looking out of my room on 22 floor, it was impossible to see the streets or city through fog/ smog. Today we visited a local hospital to have a health check prior to applying for our Chinese Driving Permits (CDP). This really was a just an eye test so don t forget your glasses. It seemed a lot of fuss but it is essential so just remain patient. Kim was gone much longer and had a hearing test of sorts. Our guides will be there to help with translation. CDP were made for us at the Police Station about 40 minutes drive from the hotel. Again just a process and more patience required. For this you simply need your normal driving license. You do not need photos either as the authorities will already have them. April 21 Chengdu - Ya An - Yajiang Depart from Chengdu at 7am Arrival at Yajiang at 16:00 Heading for the Hills. Raining but warm. Leaving Chengdu this morning was very easy and we simple took the expressway for 230 km out of Chengdu towards Kangding. This is an excellent road with mountains in the distance and very little traffic. After 20 minutes the countryside appears and we started to leave suburbs behind but it is a good hour before you leave the Chengdu region. The Schwan region is predominantly agricultural and produces oranges, pork and rape seed oil among others all for Chinese domestic market. Motor Way services are clearly marked and have shops for snacks & coffee and clean loos. As you would expect the geography changes and the hills start to appear. Green spring growth and terraces of tea accompanied by brighter weather. We were now climbing slowly and saw the Tibetan signage appear alongside the Chinese. Prayer flags and Tibetan style houses become more common and trees give way to lower shrub growth. Nepal earthquake in 2015), we will follow G318 for a considerable time. There is more traffic on G318 with the occasional lorry slowing down the traffic. The road runs between the mountain and Dadu River and is strategic for commerce and military alike. The mountains grow loquat fruit, mulberries, cherries and tea. Around noon we were climbing our first mountain pass (Zheduo 4298m meaning zigzag). The pass has chortens and prayer flags by the thousands and we can see Gongga Mountain m and a group of 6000m+ mountains. Next we descend and are actually on the plateau of Tibet. There are herds of small Yak and their calves as well as a few ponies some with ribbons in their tails for decoration in the open valley dotted with Tibetan style houses and white stupas. Yajiang is a Tibetan town built on the narrow area between mountains and Yalong River. The streets have a lot of shops of all sorts and small eateries. Houses are built on mountain slopes. There is a small Tibetan monastery on top of the hill where 6 monks live and can be visited if you want to stretch your legs before some square dancing after dinner in the town square. After the large suspension bridge the flora changes and you enter the cherry growing region. We got off the expressway in Luding where we officially entered the Tibetan regions (here in Sichuan, we are in Ganzi Tibetan Autonomous Region, which borders with Tibet Autonomous Region just after the town of Batang). It is from Luding that we start our journey on G318, China s longest National Highway (5476KM) running from Shanghai to the old Zhangmu Pass on the China/Nepal border (abandoned after the 3

4 April 22 Yajiang - Batang Depart from Yajiang at 8:00 Arrival at Batang 13:20 Soon after we left Yajiang Town, we started to climb up the mountain road, very little traffic and 18 hairpins later we were at the top of the mountain at 4190m. We drove at altitudes over 4000m most of the morning, stopping to sample the wares for the store holders selling dried fruits, air-dried yak meat and other hard to identify items. Continuing on we reached Karzila Pass at 4430m. We entered Litang County, one of the highest settlements in East Tibet at 4014m. Litang Chode, founded in 1580 by the Third Dalai Lama, is one of the largest temples outside Tibet Autonomous Region. We drove through a large village called Dela Village with beautiful Tibetan houses along both sides of the road. There was some snow on the road and the temperature was around 0C on the top, then we slowly descened into Batang and our destination ( the most glamorous garage in China) at 13:20. April 26 Bome (Pome) - Linzhi Depart Bome at 7:55 Arrival in Linzhi at around 14:30 Fresh bright morning 4 degrees. We leave the town this morning with the snowcapped mountains straight ahead. There are stations across the road with cameras and you may well see the locals and lorries parked up. This is because they are waiting for their allotted time which is worked out on average speed and if they get there two early they will be fined. The fine increases with each excessive mile. Take time this morning to turn off Trashigan village for a cuppa tea at family hotel ( 10 Yuan pp)and visit prayer flags. Listen out for the skylarks. There is plenty of room to park in center of the village. You can t drive up to the prayer flags so, park up and potter back slowly. Bome is nick named Little Switzerland because of the scenery. Mountain sides covered in pine trees and the Parlong Tsangpo River running along the valley floor and through the town. The town streets are wide and lined with shops and restaurants. Owing to it lower altitude at 2700m, the climate is mild and air is moist, forests more subtropical. The area is one of the main wheat, barley and rapeseeds producers of Tibet. It is now too high to grow rice. In 1900 a landslide created a lake in April 2000 another huge landslide blocked more of the river and levels rose. After 62 days it breached the walls and 3 Billion litres of water washed down and destroyed houses and bridges as well as 2.5 million homes in neighboring India. Driving is much slower and reflects the way of life at altitude, if you can t do it today there is always tomorrow. 4

5 It is a scenic drive today as we first followed Parlong Tsangpo River, driving through valleys and viewing snow-capped mountains afar. We saw the regional black pigs and their tiny piglets, calves and foals along the roadside - take care! All traffic will stop and or Swerve. It was amazing the amount of animals on the road and so few accidents. This is also a route that many pilgrims make and you will see them on their seemingly impossible task. Pilgrims may have a support vehicle which you will recognize as they normally have two large prayer flags on them but the vehicle may be anything from small van to large wheel barrow. The family takes turns in who does the prostration and for the elder members they will do this even at risk of death. in the course of prostrating themselves all the way from their local villages to Lhasa, the most magnetic of Tibet s Pilgrimages places. Often elected by village communities to undertake the pilgrimage, their journey may take several years to complete. They may travel in a group, accompanied by an assistant who will arrange food and shelter on their behalf. On reaching the goal of their pilgrimage, the sacred image of Jowo Rinpoche in Lhasa Jokhang Temple, they will make offerings and then return home by motor vehicle. Lunch stop today is at Lulong just off the route in a beautiful sunny Tibetan Restaurant whose owner is a famous Tibetan singer. Parking is just on the road side but don t worry it is not busy. After lunch we ascend up through the Sea of Forest to 4565m towards Linzhi so please if you get out of your vehicles take it slow. Stunning views continue and just get better. Forest gives way to low shrubs. It was gently snowing at the pass and some cloud cover. Do take care on ascent and descent as some barriers are missing. We are back down to a comfortable level quickly Before reaching Linzhi we turned south towards Milin where our rally hotel is located by Yarlong Tsangpo River the upper stream of Brahmaputra River in India. The afternoon temperature was 20 degrees. Our rally hotel tonight is reminiscent of grand Tibetan palaces and incorporates Chinese architectural flourishes and modern luxuries. The hotel was very opulent with a Sky Bar at level 8 where you can see the ridge of the mountains on the south of the hotel which marks the China - India border and is the reason why you are not allowed to venture off the given route at all in this area. The local airport is closed in the afternoons due to afternoon winds and so do be prepared for these. We had a long delay on check-in at this hotel so please do read the notes on Hotel Check-in. 5

6 April 27 Linzhi to Tsetang Depart from Linzhi at 8:00 Arrival at Tsetang at 17:40 Start at 4 degrees no wind. The mountains this morning were crisp and clear against a pale blue ski with a few low clouds that had a tinge if pink. Looks like it is going to be a wonderful day. Following the valley floor with beautiful mountain views on the let and right. I have to admit litter is a problem in places. We are 2 weeks too late for the peach blossom to be at its best but you will still see trees in blossom but with their leaves just coming through. Much more rural road compared to yesterday with lots of villages, not quite the Cotswolds though! Much less traffic than the highway with lovely scenery. After about an hour and a half we are in a semi nomadic area where the people take their cattle into the mountains for 3 or 4 months then return back here for winter. Town centre of Wolong has a large military presence. Just after this on the right you can see up on the hill the Lasa-Linzhi train track being built. It almost looks like a damn. The landscape is arid with bright green trees and later sand dunes where the afternoon wind has moved the sand up the valley. Prayer flags are more for the Bon religion and not so much the Buddhists here. This morning my thoughts are that the beautiful romantic idea of following the Yarlong Tsangpo River along the valley were shattered by the huge amount of construction and power supply required for the new Linzhi to Lhasa Railway train line. Perhaps over time these scars will be reclaimed by Mother Nature. Stop at Zangmu view point if you fancy a quick stretch of your legs and a photo. We saw wagtails, magpies, hoopo and small swift like birds. Lunch today was in Langxian where you will find fuel easily as you enter the town. Turn off the street to Jim Young Hotel to park and we will guide you to traditional Tibet lunch of curried beef and potatoes. Shortly after our lunch we come to the birthplace of the Thirteenth Dalai Lama ( ) at Trongkhang. Although this house was rebuilt after the cultural revolution and most of the rooms are empty, it is still worth your time to visit. Blue skies and 16 degrees. Gyaca is quite a large town that we travel through this afternoon in the region known for barley, apricot and prized caterpillar fungus. We drive on to Tsetang, one of Tibet s largest cities with a population of 1.2 million, and the area around Tsetang is regarded as the cradle of Tibetan civilization. The rally hotel tonight is Tibetan style with nice rooms, sunny restaurant, and heating with a large car park area in front of the hotel building. The town is clean and has good shops to top up on supplies so take a slow walk around. 6

7 April 28 Tsetang to Lhasa Depart from Tsetang at 10:00 Arrive in Lhasa at Clear blue skies and we are heading off to the Sangy monastery today. It s significance is that it was the first Buddhist monastery in Tibet. It is also off the beaten track in the direction of Lhasa. Thought for the day. Very strange travelling in a car with a driver from the police force and all conversations and actions recorded, stopping at police check points along the route on our way to one on the most revered holy places on earth. Stunning views all around and a little adventure to the Samye Monestary which is in a truly lovely setting. Samye is Tibet s first monastery built between , although the original buildings have been damaged by civil war (11th century), fires (mid 17th century and 1826), earthquakes (1816) and cultural revolution (1960s), the Tibetans have always endeavoured to rebuild and enhance the complex after each round of destruction. It is free from tourists and well worth a visit. No photos inside and travel clockwise. After the monastery for those who have extra energy, head up the road to the Samaye Chimpu Hermitage caves. Enjoy the incredible views but remember you are at 4067m high so go slowly. It may not look like many steps but I have to say the air felt thin and the stairs numerous. We didn t go past the first set of buildings which make up the Chimpu Utse Nunnery but you can see small buildings marking the entrance to the Caves where people spend years meditating. These will take a good two hours to reach. We were lucky however as a special ceremony was taking place in the nunnery with small and large trumpets, chanting, mumbles and bells. Lunchtime temp is 12 degrees and sunny. This afternoon we took the road that at times runs parallel to the new road, then hopped on the beautifully surfaced highway to Lhasa, about 2 hours from the monastery. We were lucky enough to see an eagle flying this afternoon so keep your eyes peeled. Vultures only fly in the mornings due to oxygen demand. We all think todays scenery has made up for yesterday s disappointment. Entering Lhasa is not romantic at all. Large busy Police check point, China Bank, China post, Petrol China, China Mobile, China everything.. We drove through the new town to the Hotel where we were given a lovely Tibetan welcome and stayed for two nights enjoying the luxury and comfort. 7 Lhasa Rest Days Day 1 Today we headed to Potala Palace which is actually an incredible sight to see. You have to ask your guides to get you the entry ticket that cost 200 yuan and the head to the entry gate early. Tickets are allocated with passport numbers on them which will be checked on entry. We the visitors cannot dictate any times. We queued for an hour before even getting into the first gate. Depending on your ticket there will be a time by which you need to proceed through the second gate. If you re late at this point you will be refused entry but not refunded. No drinks, lotions or potions, cigarette lighters etc allowed so perhaps just take your passport and camera with you. The palace itself is made up of chamber after chamber with deities and religious icons on display. It is a little dark and musty at times but I found it totally fascinating. There is no light or time to read the guide book so I grabbed a coffee afterwards in a local café and had a quick read. You are only allowed 1 hour in the main building and your tour guide has to register your leaving. If you make him late he will be refused tickets next time he wishes to escort a group. Please note. Lhasa is 3700m and you have an additional 150m climb to the palace. Once in the palace the stairs become more like ladders but as long as you go slowly and stop when you need to catch your breath all will be fine and I recommend the whole group take the opportunity to see some of the palace. After lunch we headed to the Dalai Lama s Summer Palace and this was more comprehensible and is set in a lovely park where people bring their families for picnics. This is actually a short walk from the Rally hotel, no queues or entry fees here. This is where he escaped from in his early twenties never to return. Note: Near the rally hotel are a range of garages and tyre shops, all very handy but you will need a guide with you so don t just head off ready to try your hand at sign language.

8 Day 2 One our second day in Lhasa we headed to the Jokhang temple (Temple of the Lord) also known as the Qoikang Monastery and is the spiritual heart of Lhasa. This is situated in the old town and even Kim would agree it was totally amazing. Filled to the brim with icons, incense smoke and people. It is home to the most revered icon in Tibet and it felt like being on a film set. It is recognized as part of the UNESCO world heritage site of the Potala Palace. While you re visiting Jokhang then spare a little time to join the Tibetans and walk around the temple which takes 15 minutes before heading off to explore the old town down the streets that radiate from the Jokhang temple it is worth every step. You can pop into art shops to purchase a tanker or prayer wheel and a raft of local crafts. Get a local brew of sweet tea or a bowl of noodles or just enjoy people watching as they do their Kora before you head back to the hotel. The rally hotel does have two lovely shops full of shiny items but just remember that the beautiful white Jade, real or not, is not found in Tibet. It would make sense to do half day sightseeing and then relax for the rest of the time so you have not worn yourself out before we climb high in west Tibet. Perhaps even stock up in local supermarket for recognisable items you would like to have over the next 11 days. Our drive today starts with us heading towards the airport but then we continue south west towards Jianxi town. Don t panic we don t climb the first range of mountains you see today, instead we continue to follow the banks of the Pramabutra and it is beautiful. Take time to get that photo if you can decide where as it is a stunning drive. The road book will tell you about speed cameras and lots more but today we saw hidden police vehicles with hand held radars so do be warned Slow it is - Enjoy the pace. Fines are proportional to percentage over Limit and can be 10,000 yuan. Our first pass today is at 4700m where we have our first sight of Yamdrok Yutso Lake 4000m. One of three sacred lakes in Tibet. Yamdrok is shaped like a fan coral, with many bays and inlets on its mountainous shores. It is visited by pilgrims all year long. It is said that should its waters dry, Tibet will no longer be habitable. We follow the northern lakeshore with stops to admire the blue-green lake, until our lunch stop at Nakartse County (4475m), which has for centuries been a vital trading link between Lhasa and Bhutan, Sikkim, Nepal and West Tibet. There is an annual cycling race around this lake for crazy people. Stop at one of the local transport cafes and you may see the typical Tibetan dog, big hairy thing. Some people ask for 10 Yuan for a photo of their dog and I have to say I think it is a little sad. I don t think the dogs like it much and didn t look happy. In comparison the yaks by the lake have different coloured silks around there necks and hung from their withers to show which family owns them. Temp at 2:30 is 6 but very sunny fab morning and now fab afternoon. May 1st Lhasa-Gyantse-Shigatse Depart from Lhasa at 9:40 Arrival at Shigatse at 18:00 Today there was a surprise, this morning was bright sunshine but overnight snow had covered the arid mountains surrounding the town and light cloud is sitting at the top of them. It was 3 degrees at 9am. Soon after our lunch stop we climb again to Khari La Glacier (5045m) where they seem to charge you for getting out of your car to take a photo so do be warned. The glacier is beautiful and seems to spill towards the road. If you sit quietly you will see small hamster like animals scurrying around on the ground. We continued our descent to the historic town of Gyantse, a small village and home to the Kumbum Monastery and Pelkhor Chode Temple. Gyantse Dzong a fortress, dominates the city s skyline was built in the 14th and 15th century, it once served as the city s administrative and government center. The drive this afternoon was totally beautiful with the road this afternoon as straight as the road this morning was wiggly! Tonight s hotel is reasonable. Make the most of the facilities as they now start to run thin as we head west. In your room you will find oxygen available which come on automatically from 9 till 11pm but please note if you do use more than the two hours 8

9 and have it on overnight you may feel the altitude even more in the morning when no oxygen. The area of Gyantse is an important and prosperous farming region of Tibet, where the best quality of barley and rapeseeds are produced. Shigatse is the second largest city in Tibet with a railway link with Lhasa. Next door to the hotel you will not only find a Burger King but a shopping centre for any supplies needed. Gyanste is also the seat and residence of the Panchen Lamas. May 2 Shigatse New Tingri Everest BC New Tingri Depart from Shigatse at 8:00 Arrival at New Tingri at 12:30 We are driving on high altitude today mostly over 4000m. Our first mountain pass is Tso La at 4530m, then Gyatso La Pass at 5240m before we get to the viewing platform of your first sight of Mt. Everest. The mountains are high and dry but there are many villages and nomads with goats, sheep and yaks. It is their time for preparing the fields for the spring and many farmers are busy doing just this. At 224km around noon, there is a village called Jiabu (at milestone 5127km), which is by the side of the road. There are around 100 residents, but only old people and children are home when the adults are out working in the fields. You can visit the village for 20 mins or so. Our lunch is at New Tingri opposite the main fuel station. There are several restaurants and parking space. We set off to the Everest BC after lunch. There is a check point and a ticket office before we enter Chomolungma Nature Preserve. Road is very good but twisty. At Kya Wu La Pass (Pang La) 5200m, we can see the Himalayan range including 4 above 8000m: Makalu (8463m, 5th highest), Lhotse (8516m, 4th highest), Everest (8848m), and Cho Oyu (8201m, 6th highest). Our hotel is the Everest Hotel. There is good car parking, around 100 rooms. There is air-conditioned heating, bathrooms are worn down. Note: we need to turn on the air-conditioning in each room as soon as we arrive. Hot water is provided after 7pm before 8am. The heating in the dining hall needs to be turned on as soon as we arrive too. There is a small room on the other side of the lobby, which we may use to have a film night. May 3 New Tingri Saga Depart from New Tingri at 8:00 Arrival at Saga at 14:00 Frosty but crystal clear morning and off we go. Sodahs my driver has had a little instruction from me on breaking points at corners and the law of inertia and so now we remain on our side of the road, definite bonus when oncoming traffic appears, he saves energy and is not wrestling the Land Cruiser like a tiger. Result! 9

10 Fairly short day because of the amazing road so take time to visit the hots springs, villages, photo shoots etc. It is not restrictive like Lhasa and so you can stop here and there. A beautiful drive though very dry area which every now and then has Tibetan style dew ponds. The water for this area comes from the snow melt. The houses are painted dark red and black and this shows the Saga tribe as do the paintings of moons on doors and construction lorries everywhere, just not great. It is meant to be the last town with 24 hour electric but when we got to our hotel no electric for 2 hours. Tonight at a very grubby restaurant Kim found a suitable travel companion that we named fire water. We are sleeping at 4400m tonight. The Hotel is actually not too bad, good parking and reception area just very cold and no power. Most hotels, restaurants & shops have their own generators so they are ready and prepared. Villages have water piped from the mountain to a central point in the village for everyone to share. Fish are found in the river but people don t eat them. Near the villages there are sacred places for sky burials, very few water or earth burials take place now. There is a problem in that the environment has not been able to support the vultures and so they may have to resort to more cremations. Amazing view of Oomlongchangar (Everest) this morning totally beautiful set against a clear blue sky. We stopped twice to admire the view. As we head on we see ruins of houses and towns that now just look like giant termite mounds. We also saw couples of black neck cranes wading through the shallows so keep your eyes peeled for these beauties as well as small herds of wild asses. Now we seem to be leaving behind some of the many power lines and the plateau is opening up. Mid-morning you will have the mountain Shishapangma which looks like a horizontal face. Its summit is 8027m and is completely inside China s territory. Next is the bright turquoise Pai Ku Lake which is the largest inland lake of Himalayas and is at 4600m. The view is totally lovely. The lake is fed by the mountain Shishapnagnu, half fresh water half salt water with lots of fish. We are driving some of its south side shoreline and it is worth a stop or drive down to the actual shore to stretch your legs and soak up the amazing views. There is also usually a lot of wildlife in this area including wild donkeys, wolves, foxes, deer, gazelle, black-necked cranes as well as yaks and sheep. We turned right towards Saga and the road was very rough gravel and hard work but they are working on it and we understand it to be tarmacked by the time of our next visit. If we had gone straight on at this point we would be heading for the pass that we will take to leave Tibet and enter Nepal and we can see that it actually looks OK from here. May 4 & 5 Saga - Coqen - Yagra These three days were across central Tibet and done as the normal recce process. The outcome unfortunately was that we won t be able to; Get the cars through without breaking them and even the locals have problems with the conditions of the tracks which are real car breakers. We stopped to see if we could assist a group of locals trying to move their 4x4 that had got stuck but we weren t able to help. When they breakdown because of the remoteness and distances to any help or work shop is measured in days and not km they often abandon their highly prized vehicles. The altitude and remoteness pose a problem for anyone of the group, team or crews if they became ill. The temperatures are not suitable for camping in any comfort and there are no hostels that can manage our group size. Petrol is not always available at the one petrol station in Yagra and this is the only petrol available for over 170 km in all directions. In Tibet, due to the politics, there is no option to organize a jerry can let alone a tanker. It was very apparent that this was not an acceptable route for the rally. The square houses by the shores of Lake Cho Lung and surrounding area are the winter homes of the nomadic herders and are empty whilst the nomads head higher for the summer. They protect their homes in their absence by filling the windows with stones. We reached Saga which I have to say is a complete mess. Buildings being pulled down, some new work 10

11 May 6 Yagra to Darchen to Zhada Depart from Yagra at 7:00 Arrive at Zhada at 17:40 On our way today we took the to stop at a nomad camp to admire they flock of sheep and Yak herd. Up here the conditions are so harsh and a couple of the lambs were in the last throws of life and it is just how it is here. Later on we did actually see a few wild Yak high on hills but they were too far to photograph. Nearly five hours and 138km after our dawn start we finally left the boulders and gravel behind and returned to the tarmac main road. I have to say that this section of road had the more spectacular scenery and took us up past another sacred Lake Manasarovar to Darchen and views of Mt. Kailash (6656m) and Nemo Nanyi Peak (7728m). Wide open valley with nomads and villages, a lot of sheep, yaks, and some black-neck cranes, birds and antelopes. Mt. Kailash looks spectacular in the sun but not as big as I had expected. It looks like it has giant steps heading to the sky with the peaks to the right reminded me of Aztec and pyramid designs. Note ponies and donkeys not had their babies yet! We leave Darchen after lunch, start climbing slowly, going over passes over 5000m. The mountains become drier and drier and out of nowhere we get to a military check point where we can see the Clay Forest starting to appear in the distance. The clay forest in geology is known as the Level Terrane Physiognomy, formed by erosion, where the sediment of lakes and rivers, mainly composed by sandstone and clay, have formed into various shapes. The Level Terrane has developed upright qualities, and the valley is deep. The orogenic movement of the Himalayas has made the bottom of the lake ascend. And the undulating earthen forest for dozens of kilometers formed by the subsiding 11 water and long years of weathering has taking a toll, forming narrow earthen forests. What this really translates to is the drive up to Zhada is completely spectacular with a pass of 5166m and incredible and hard to describe geography/ geology. Rocks of beautiful greens, golds, bronze and purples, arranged in layers and strange shapes. It really is a wow for us all. Although the drops from the side of the roads are not huge, for those like me it is definitely enough when there is no barrier in place and our driver keeps overtaking, what s the rush! May 7th Zhada Day Off We left for Guge ruins an easy 20 min drive with a little rough terrain on arrival. The drive in the morning sun was beautiful. We started to see the ruins along the road but the best was still to come. We reached the deserted ancient city and were shown around the various religious temples in a small group by the caretaker and then left to look around at will. As you go higher they just keep amazing you. I didn t make it to the top but stopped about half way and then headed off down the valley. Take a walk if you don t want to climb up the ancient city. Walk down to the cave where the beheaded bodies are said to remain and cross the little valley at bottom and back up other side to another temple. You can take a short cut back but it is a bit slippery and steep. You realistically need to allow 2 hours for this walk. The temple at top has an old gatekeeper and she will unlock for you. Some ancient thankas and boxes and piles of scriptures in silver and gold are inside this temple along with a religious icon of a foot print. Take your time before returning to Zhada and enjoy looking along the road for more ancient houses and buildings cut into the rocks. Look to the top of

12 the hills as well to see those that would have been perfectly placed in their day. One of the amazing things about the lost kingdom of Guge is that all the materials needed to build it in the 10th century were transported by elephant from India. When you head back to the hotel take time to visit the Tholing monastery in the centre of the town. It is in the constant state of renovation but is still worth a quick trip. May 8th Zarda to Darchen Depart from Zhada at 9:10 Arrival at Darchen at 16:35 First grey morning as we head back to Darchen. About 4 hours drive. After the check point with the military equipment at the pass (5250m) there was snow on the roads for about 150m but I m sure all crews will be fine navigating and driving this. There were a few homesteads nestled at the bottom of the pass that were so basic I wonder just how they manage to survive. We have already driven the road and so I won t describe what we saw. However, There are two monasteries near Darchen that we can detour to visit shortly after we get on the main road. Tirthapuri Hot Spring and Monastery are associated sacred sites with Mt. Kailash and Lake Manarsarovar. Pilgrims typically come here after completing the Kailash pilgrimage. They bathe in pools fed by the sacred springs, then visit the cave and monastery associated with Guru Rinpoche. The Bonpo Sanctuary of Gurugyam and the cave hermitage of Yungdrung Rinchen Barwa, are major centers of the Bon religion in far-west Tibet, which was the official Tibetan religion before the introduction of Buddhism in the 7th century and one associated with the prayer flags. an important stop for many pilgrims. Most Tibetan Pilgrims will come to this area for two very important pilgrimages; 1) to circumnavigate Lake Manarsarovar and visit the several monasteries around the lake, and 2) to circumnavigate holy Mt. Kailash. May 9 Darchen to Saga Depart from Darchen at 8:45 Arrival at Saga at 17:30 Again fantastic scenery and good views of Mt. Kailash and Nemo Nanyi snow peak while we are driving away. Very soon we arrive at Mayum La Pass (5211m). We reach the small town of Baryang at noon and stop for a bite to eat before continuing on. Surprisingly we drive past some large sand dunes as we drive towards Drongpa. There is a small temple by the road which I thought was totally fascinating. Traduntse is one of the border taming temples founded by Songtsen Gampo in the seventh century. The temple was established to suppress the mythical supine demoness that represents the Tibetan landscape. The walls inside the temple still bear some of the newspaper from the dates of the Cultural Revolution (1966) to cover up the religious murals along with some of the red army s slogans graffiti as well. After two more passes of nearly 5000m, we come to Saga. Also worth a detour is the far shore Lake Manasarovar. Chiu Gompa (Sparrow Monastery) is built right into the cliffs beside the lake. There is an ancient shrine in a cave here dating back to the 8th Century. It is a very interesting monastery and 12 May 10 Saga to Jilong (Kyirong) Depart from Saga at 9:00 Arrive at Jilong at 14:00 We started today driving through a few inches of snow that had fallen over night. The roads were not a problem and then as we approached the top of the pass and entered the next valley there was absolutely no snow and bright sunshine. I m sure all crews will be fine with this.

13 The drive took us back through wide valleys and then to the highest pass being Jakhyung La 5236m where again the previous nights snow fall had reached. There were a few lorries laying at the side of the road like ailing dinosaurs but Im not sure this was actually due to the snow but more the effort of hauling their cargo up the pass. We quickly pass them and continue on our merry way and then start a beautiful descent before we reach the town of Dzongka where we stopped for lunch. From here, following Kyirong Tsangpo River, we descended further into Kyirong Valley, which forms one of Tibet s most beautiful alpine regions. Snow peaks, alpine brush, forests, villages, and farms spread vertically step by step. The road this afternoon was lovely but we have now left the spectacular scenery of Tibet behind us as we end the day in Kyirong. May 11 Jilong to the border Depart Jilong at 7:30 am Arrive Kathmandu 20:30 Our hopes of making a quick start and reaching the border before the commercial vehicles was thwarted by the fact that one of the police check points a few km from our hotel had not opened when we arrived. Never mind, a short wait and off we go winding our way down to the next valley floor and after only 10 minutes I can feel my ears popping as we descend at speed. My driver is driving very carefully, not totally sure why as the roads are great. Perhaps he just wants to deliver his cargo in good order, seems a great idea to me. Mr Lee is obviously not having the same thought about Kim or our Nepalese agent Bijay. The road is amazing Chinese engineering and makes the Stelvio pass look like a parking space at Waitrose. We have dropped 1000m in less than 20 mins. We weren t able to stop to get a great photo! This is actually a nature reserve. Landslide has made a bit of a mess of the road but we just press on, patches of water not sure where from and at the bottom fairly quickly and can see that the border, which is the river, is protected by razor wire. We followed the valley to the hugely imposing Chinese border crossing building. The border crossing was totally incredible. China s side was a huge fortress like building, various ranked officials in immaculate uniform, process and X-ray machines. We then walked 100 yards across the bridge and half way across the tarmac disappeared and chaos greeted us. The Nepalese border post was wood panels with a corrugated tin roof where they had a quick rummage through our luggage and I have to say everyone else are tidier packers than me. Then no X-ray machine but a quick body search did discover a small orange in my pocket. They have only opened this border crossing as an international border pass for foreigners in September 2017 after the Nepalese earthquake of 2015 which closed the roads to the old pass of Zhangmu. The Nepalese lorries are all lined up and leave just enough space for the incoming lorries to squeeze past. The road is rough and has huge rocks sticking out but tough luck you just have to get on with it and keep moving. The immediate area is the remains of the 2015 earthquake and the hillside village is now beneath your feet. You now also have to go about a km along the road to the Nepal Immigration where a charming chap will enter your data manually into two ledgers and wave you on your way with a broad smile. 13

14 Into Nepal The tarmac was surprisingly missing for a proportion of the journey to Kathmandu but this is due to several factors. The road widening scheme that is going on, the recent landslides and the volume of commercial traffic. This will be resolved before the rally comes through, when the new road in the bottom of the valley is opened for the commercial traffic and the road widening is complete at the end of this year. After a coffee stop we are now lurching skywards and the road side restaurant is called 12 Bends Restaurant so that gives a clue. We are in the Sherpa area. Drivers please be kind to your navigators and use your horns. You may have time to enjoy the terraced mountain sides and incredible views as you negotiate the 4 passes to Kathmandu. The amount of traffic on such a road is actually astounding. We stopped in a small town for a snack and then off again. Dropping down through smallholdings where rice, sweet corn, potatoes, banana palms, tomatoes, mango & lychee are growing. A really charming drive punctuated by a Tata lorry or three. Eventually we are climbing the grid locked hill into Kathmandu and it is utter chaos but our hotel is wonderful and we head straight to the bar for a very well earned beer. Katmandu to Pokara to Lumbini to Gorakpur to Varanassi The roads were truly horrendous car breakers and absolutely no pleasure to drive. The days were very long because of the road conditions and to be honest the sights at the destinations were not enough to warrant this painful experience and again the support team would have a very difficult if not impossible job in these conditions. The temperatures increased as we went onto the plains of India and on the last day they were 39 degrees which was unpleasant and not an option to travel unless in an air-conditioned vehicle. Conclusion I have to say that at times it has been a challenge for many reasons. The blocking of internet sites, s being delayed, our conversations all recorded in the cars, cameras everywhere in public spaces, inside temples and even hotels has made it all, as Kim said, very "big brother" and uncomfortable. Dry air and dusty roads, cold at times and very hot at others. Hotels lacking facilities and comfort, repetition of the few Chinese dishes served up at each meal and then on top of this actually coping with the altitude. However, we have had the privilege of travelling extensively in Tibet and seeing some truly fascinating and thought provoking sights. We have enjoyed scenery day after day that is impossible for me to describe. We are some of the very few tourists who have left Tibet via the road crossing over the Himalayas and finally we had the pleasure of working with wonderful people on the team. We have accomplished what we set out to do. We now have the Trans-Himalayan Adventure 2019 rally route agreed and surveyed, the timetable and dates of travel agreed and we are now confident that we can support the participating crews throughout the event. This rally is not for everyone but for those with a sense of adventure it really is remarkable. This journey will stay with me for a very long time. LIZ WENMAN 14