Lonely Planet Publications 12 FAST FACTS

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1 Lonely Planet Publications 12 FAST FACTS Population of six New England states: 14.3 million Total area of New England states: 72,000 sq miles Miles of coastline in New England: 4965 Lobster sheds its shell in the first five years of life: 25 times Unemployment rate in six New England states: 4.5% Number of tea crates emptied into Boston Harbor on December 16, 1773: 342 Gallons of maple syrup produced in Vermont annually: 430,000 Number of thru-hikers who started the Appalachian Trail in Springer Mt, Georgia in 2007: 1125 Number of thru-hikers who finished the Appalachian Trail in Katahdin, Maine in 2007: 159 Destination New England You re likely to return from New England with an album of images: white-clapboard churches on well-manicured greens; red-brick buildings on leafy college campuses; granite mountains majestically ablaze with fall colors; paint-peeling fishing boats bobbing at their mores. New England is all that, and more. It s a politically liberal region. Look at voting records, elected officials and enacted policies: the liberal status is undeniable. The most conspicuous example? Five out of six states have legalized some form of same-sex union (an act that other states in the union are outlawing). But as always the situation is more nuanced than the image implies. Case in point: of the region s two homegrown candidates in the 2008 presidential election, the frontrunner was a Republican. New England is increasingly international. It has long been a destination for immigrants from Ireland, Italy and Portugal, and the mixture is becoming even more diverse. Chinatown is expanding in Boston, while Brazilian flags are strewn about the suburbs. Hartford and Springfield are havens for Haitians, while Vietnamese and Cambodians are settling in Lowell. The result is a richer, spicier and more complex blend of cultures. Besides rural charm, New England is also about urban grit. Industrial and port cities around the region were built on the backs of factory workers, mill girls and sailors. Today towns like Salem, Mystic, Lowell, Providence and Portland are remaking themselves as trendsetters and tourist destinations, building museums out of former factories, opening restaurants in old warehouses, offering cruises on canals and walks around working harbors. No matter what new identity these cities take on, however, they retain their edgy undersides, fuelling innovative art and nonstop nightlife. Which brings us to our next point: New England is at the cutting edge of culture. With the recent opening of the Institute of Contemporary Arts in Boston, the region is now home to two exciting, experimental contemporary art museums. Indie bands rock out in Boston, Portland, Providence and Burlington. The world-renowned Boston Symphony Orchestra takes its show on the road in summer, delighting audiences in the Berkshires. Around the region concert series, film festivals and theater productions make for a cultural calendar that is jam-packed and jaw-dropping. New England is big on outdoor adventure: you ll find a sport for every season. Whether you re hurdling over carriage roads on a mountain bike or swooping down a snowy slope on a snowboard, the rounded peaks of the region s mountain ranges give everyone a rush. While you re paddling the luxuriously languid inland lakes or rafting down a rippling river, her waterways awaken your senses. Whether you re bird-watching or building sand castles, her windswept beaches are beguiling. New England is history. It s the Pilgrims who came ashore at Plymouth Rock and the minutemen who fought for American independence. But it s also contemporary. It s the farmers and fishermen struggling for survival; students and immigrants, always adapting. New England oozes individuality and diversity; it s colorful and controversial, free-thinking and forward-looking.

2 13 Getting Started Although New England is geographically small, it contains an unlimited array of outdoor adventures, culinary treats, cultural diversions and artistic masterpieces. The main challenge in planning a trip may be deciding between them! So here is our first word of warning: don t try to pack too much into too little (and we re not talking about your suitcase). If you find yourself with some unprogrammed time on your hands, there is no shortage of spontaneous pursuits to engage you on the spur of the moment. That said, it s worth making a few advance arrangements if you are combing the beaches of Cape Cod in summer, leaf-peeping in the Green or White Mountains in October, or celebrating with the students during graduation week in Boston. Reserving a room in advance is advisable, especially if you have your heart set on staying somewhere in particular. For the most flexibility and freedom of travel, consider renting a vehicle or bringing your own. Except for the city of Boston, New England is prime road-trip country. Driving your own car (or bicycle!) will ensure that you explore more back roads, browse more antique shops, devour more diner specials and engage in more of what New England has to offer. WHEN TO GO With four distinct seasons, travel in New England presents four different faces. If you re prepared to roll with abrupt and dramatic weather changes, you can explore New England year-round. Although many travelers think of New England primarily as a summer destination, that would unduly discount the entire catalog of winter sports (see p62 ) and the peak fall foliage season, when the drama of leaf-peeping reaches its zenith (see p24 and p53 ). If temperate spring weather lasts a while, traveling from late April to early June can be glorious, with apple and cherry trees in bloom and farmers out tapping maple trees for sap (see the boxed text, p359 ). If spring is short, as it usually is, it may arrive on a Tuesday, and be followed on Wednesday by the heat and humidity of summer. In July and August, summer resort areas are very busy, accommodations are fully booked and restaurants are crowded. With the exception of the coast or mountains, summers can be uncomfortably humid. Unless your heart is See Climate Charts ( p524 ) for more information. DON T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT Checking the visa situation (see p531 ) Checking the updated security regulations at the airport. Remember to put Swiss army knives and toiletries (over 5 oz) in your suitcase, as you won t be allowed to carry them on the airplane. Drivers license and car insurance (see p537 ) A jacket or sweater (even in summer) if you re lingering on the coast or in northern mountains Lightweight rain gear for spring and fall A demure bathing suit (remember, New England is full of Puritans) Binoculars for whale- and bird-watching An insatiable appetite, a pleasure-seeking palate and a taste for boutique ice cream

3 14 GETTING STARTED Costs & Money lonelyplanet.com HOW MUCH? Bike rental (24 hours): $25 Cappuccino: $3.50 Cover charge Abbey Lounge: $8-12 T-ride: $1.70 Red Sox ticket bleacher seat (face value): $23 LONELY PLANET INDEX Gallon of gas: $2.80 Liter of water: $2.50 Pint of Sam Adams: $5 Boston: Wicked Pissah T-shirt: $20 Bowl of clam chowder: $5 set on swimming, time your travel to occur between mid-may and mid-june, before local schools close and families hit the road (but avoid Boston at the end of May when the city is packed for college graduations). Another great time is early September after the big summer rush but before the leaf-peepers (foliage tourists) arrive. The weather in these shoulder seasons is generally warm and sunny. Autumn harvest time means fresh cranberries on sale in the markets, pick-your-own fruit days and cidermaking at orchards (see p51 ). Early November is a serene, almost haunting, time before the snows hit and icy winds blow. Winter can be severe or moderate, but it s rarely mild. December to March is ski season in the mountains. Almost all of interior New England experiences harsh weather with lakes iced in until April. When it s not snowing, however, you ll likely find winter in New England to be bright and sunny. For more details, see the Climate sections in individual regional chapters. COSTS & MONEY The cost of living in New England is similar to the rest of the eastern seaboard, which is higher than the rest of the US. Travelers will find that urban areas especially Boston are particularly pricey for hotels and restaurants (although there are plenty of options for the budget traveler). In recent years, the floundering dollar has made the US an attractive destination for European and Canadian travelers, and New England is no exception. Travel costs are highest in the summer and during fall foliage; in the mountains, rates go up during ski season. Of course, costs vary widely depending on your mode of travel. If you camp, drive your own car and pack picnics, your daily expenses can be as low as $50 per person per day. A traveler staying in budget motels and hostels and eating in budget restaurants can expect to spend between $80 and $100 per person per day. Midrange travelers can expect to spend between $100 and $150 per day, which includes staying at a midrange hotel, paying admission for parks and museums, eating at restaurants and paying for transportation. This does not account for the occasional splurge on shopping, dining or accommodation! Many discounts are available; see p525. Most state tourism centers publish brochures that include discount coupons for places to eat and stay; also look for travel coupons online. Discounts on car rentals and accommodations are often available to members of auto clubs affiliated with the American Automobile Association (AAA; p538 ). Parents should inquire about reduced rates on meals and activities for children. Often museums will have a free family day or family discounts. For our Top Ten picks for kids, see p16. For more information on traveling with children, see p524. TRAVEL LITERATURE New England s reverence for the written word started with the Puritans, and has been nurtured over the centuries by the area s great universities and literary societies. Here are a few local literary lights to consider when you are selecting your reading material. Start with Walden; Or, Life in the Woods (1854) by Henry David Thoreau, a quiet and searching story of his 26 months in a small cabin on Walden Pond ( p139 ). Compare that with A Walk in the Woods (1999) by Bill Bryson, who hikes the Appalachian Trail with his friend both of them gloriously middle-aged and out-of-shape explorers. In Land s End (2002), Pulitzer Prize winner Michael Cunningham, a frequent visitor to Provincetown over the past two decades, explores its

4 lonelyplanet.com GETTING STARTED Internet Resources 15 artistic history and its alternative lifestyle which in Provincetown is not the alternative but the norm. (The book is only 172 pages and makes a good beach read.) For many years, Linda Greenlaw lived on Monhegan Island and worked as a captain of a swordfish boat a rarity in the male-dominated fishing industry. She wrote several New York Times bestselling books based on her experiences, including The Lobster Chronicles (2003) and The Hungry Ocean (2000). The Wapshot Chronicle (1957), John Cheever s debut novel, is a sardonic account of an old eccentric family whose steady decline is hastened by the ribald activities of Moses Wapshot and his brother Coverely. Many of John Irving s novels are set in New England. Fans muse about which novel is his best, but perennial favorites include A Prayer for Owen Meany (1989) and Hotel New Hampshire (1981), both hilarious comingof-age stories set in New Hampshire. A cause célèbre when it appeared in 1992, Donna Tartt s The Secret History still resonates. It explores the amusing (and ultimately murderous) hijinks of a clique of classical studies students at a New England college based on Bennington, Vermont. INTERNET RESOURCES Boston Globe s New England Guide ( Vast listings of travel tips and itineraries. Lonely Planet ( What better place to start? National Parks Service ( Features fast facts about national parks, recreation areas and historic sites across the US, including New England. New England Lighthouses ( A comprehensive list of lighthouses by state. Visit New England ( One of many online travel resources, including a comprehensive listing of hotels and attractions. Yankee Magazine ( An excellent general interest site with classic things to see, great destination profiles and events. TRAVELING RESPONSIBLY Like the rest of the country, New England is slowly but surely becoming more environmentally aware. With hundreds of square miles of national forest and protected parkland, the region values its natural resources. Major cities are also getting in on the game, purchasing fuel-efficient buses, constructing bike paths and hosting farmers markets. (See p79 for more information about the greening of Boston.) What does this mean for you? It gives you more ways to minimize your impact as a traveler. Besides the suggestions listed here, check out the GreenDex at the back of this book. Getting There & Away If you wish to avoid flying to New England, you do have some more environmentally friendly options. The East Coast of the United States is served by an excellent network of trains and buses, so it s easy to get to Providence, Boston and other major New England cities from anywhere on the eastern seaboard. Amtrak ( runs frequent trains between New York City and Boston. The region is also well served by the national bus company Greyhound ( as well as by regional company Peter Pan ( Trains and buses between Boston and New York (four to five hours), for example, run frequently throughout the day. If you are coming from another part of the country, you ll have to spend a

5 16 GETTING STARTED Top Picks lonelyplanet.com TOP PICKS UNITED STATES OF AMERICA VT NEW ENGLAND For Foodies The feast isn t confined to Thanksgiving, as New England s bountiful food options make all seasons ripe for culinary exploration: Carmen ( p107 ) Boston, Al Forno ( p292 ) Providence, Rhode Island Wellfleet OysterFest ( p198 ) Wellfleet, Brewster Fish House ( p190 ) Brewster, Boulevard Diner ( p237 ) Worcester, River Tavern ( p341 ) Chester, Connecticut NH MA Boston Eli s ( p310 ) Block Island, Rhode Island Simon Pearce Restaurant ( p378 ) Quechee, Vermont Pangea ( p369 ) North Bennington, Vermont Cook s Lobster House ( p488 ) Bailey Island, Maine Only in New England In a world of seeming sameness, New England is still remarkably and refreshingly defined by regional characteristics. Here are a few of our favorite unique, off-beat and exclusively New England experiences: Head of the Charles ( p98 ) Boston, Lobster ice cream ( p177 ) Falmouth, Cape Cod Montague Bookmill ( p255 ) Montague, Brimfield Antique Show ( p239 ) Sturbridge, Cliff Walk ( p297 ) Newport, Rhode Island Gillette Castle ( p341 ) East Haddam, Connecticut Bread and Puppet Museum ( p405 ) Northeast Kingdom, Vermont Covered Bridge Museum ( p367 ) Bennington, Vermont Pumpkin Festival ( p425 and p98 ) Keene, New Hampshire or Boston, Lobster Festival ( p494 ) Rockland, Maine New England for Kids Your kids can playfully and pleasantly pass their entire vacation at the beach (take your pick which one). But if you want to broaden their horizons, here are a few more opportunities to entertain and educate: Plimoth Plantation ( p165 ) Plymouth, Haunted Happenings ( p147 ) Salem, Whale-watching cruise ( p205 and p154 ) Lobstering cruise ( p467 ) Flying Horses Carousel ( p224 ) Oak Bluffs, Higgins Amory Museum ( p235 ) Worcester, Magic Wings Butterfly Conservatory & Gardens ( p254 ) Deerfield, Roger Williams Park & Zoo ( p280 ) Providence, Rhode Island Mystic Aquarium & Institute for Exploration ( p320 ) Mystic, Connecticut New England Aquarium ( p83 ) Boston, Stepping Stones Museum for Children ( p336 ) Norwalk, Connecticut Children s Museum ( p85 ) Boston, Children s Museum of Maine ( p476 ) Portland, Maine

6 lonelyplanet.com GETTING STARTED Traveling Responsibly 17 bit more time. It takes about 3½ days to travel by train from San Francisco to Boston, but there is plenty to see along the way. Slow Travel Within New England, there is a reliable network of regional buses that serve the bigger towns. Concord Trailways ( plies routes from Boston to New Hampshire and Maine, while C&J Trailways ( goes to the coastal towns of Newburyport and Portsmouth. Plymouth & Brockton Street Railway Co ( connects Boston to the South Shore and Cape Cod. Vermont Transit ( has routes all around Vermont, New Hampshire and Maine, as well as connections to Montreal and Boston. The MBTA commuter rails ( run to some towns around Boston, while ferries run to Cape Cod and the islands, as well as to some coastal towns. If you don t want to be tied to bus and boat schedules, consider riding a bike. Bike rental is available in all of New England s bigger towns, as well as in major tourist destinations like Provincetown and Newport. You can also bring bikes on ferries and trains. For information about the region s best bike trails, see p59. Accommodation No accommodation is more environmentally sound than camping (assuming your camp stove does not start a forest fire). Here are some other options for relatively eco-friendly lodging: Vanessa Noel Hotel Green ( p214 ) Nantucket, Copley Square Hotel ( p101 ) Boston, AMC Highland Center ( p457 ) Crawford Notch, New Hampshire Albert B Lester Memorial HI-AYH Hostel ( p452 ) North Conway, New Hampshire Pinestead Farm Lodge ( p449 ) Franconia, New Hampshire Four Columns Inn ( p362 ) Newfane, Vermont Food Locally grown, organic, in-season food is one of the big draws to the region and it doesn t take a lot to find a restaurant serving this kind of fare. Check out p50 for excellent farmers markets and other places to purchase fresh produce straight from the source. Our top picks for restaurants using local and organic produce: Ten Tables ( p111 ) Boston, Naked Oyster ( p184 ) Hyannis, Juice ( p199 ) Wellfleet, Al Forno ( p292 ) Providence, Rhode Island Fire & Ice ( p383 ) Middlebury, Vermont Smokejacks ( p393 ) Burlington, Vermont Shaker Table ( p423 ) Concord, New Hampshire Canoe Club ( p432 ) Hanover, New Hampshire

7 18 Events Calendar With a calendar jam-packed full of historical, cultural, culinary and otherwise celebratory events, there s never a dull moment in New England. JANUARY FEBRUARY MOBY-DICK: THE MARATHON January 3 The 25-hour marathon reading of the Melville classic takes place at the New Bedford Whaling Museum ( p169 ) at noon on the anniversary of the writer s departure on a whaling ship from the New Bedford,, port. MARCH APRIL BOSTON MARATHON 3rd Monday in April The country s longest-running marathon ( p98 ), when tens of thousands of spectators watch runners cross the finish line at Copley Plaza in Boston. PATRIOTS DAY April 19 Companies of minutemen and regulars don colonial dress and re-enact the historic battles on Patriots Day ( p135 ) on the greens in Lexington and Concord,. Arrive just after dawn. MAY JUNE FIELDS OF LUPINE FESTIVAL early June This little-known floral festival ( p449 ) celebrates the annual bloom of delicious lupine with garden tours, art exhibits and concerts in Franconia, New Hampshire. BUNKER HILL DAY Sunday nearest June 19 Residents re-enact the fateful Battle of Bunker Hill (1775) in Charlestown (Boston, ) and then commemorate the event with a local parade ( p98 ). JULY INDEPENDENCE DAY July 4 Independence Day celebrations take place all around the region. HARBORFEST week of July 4 This week-long festival ( p98 ) is an extension of the Fourth of July weekend in Boston,. Kids activities, chowder-tasting and other events culminate in the annual fireworks and Pops concert on the Esplanade. MASHPEE WAMPANOAG POW WOW weekend nearest July 4 Native Americans from around the country join the Mashpee Wampanoag for a big three-day heritage celebration ( p179 ) in Mashpee,, that includes Native American dancing, crafts, competitions and after-dark fireball. GAY PRIDE PARADE mid-june Drawing tens of thousands of participants and spectators, this mid-month parade ( p98 ) culminates in a big party on Boston Common. NEWPORT MUSIC FESTIVAL mid-july Classical music lovers come from far and wide to hear the concerts ( p301 ) that are hosted in Newport s famous mansions. REVOLUTIONARY WAR FESTIVAL 2nd Sunday after July 4 Exeter, New Hampshire, celebrates Independence Day a little late, with reenactments, colonial cooking, road races and free concerts ( p419 ). NORTH ATLANTIC BLUES FESTIVAL mid-july The little town of Rockland in Maine gets the summertime blues ( p494 ), attracting musicians from around the region for a weekend-long jam session. BARNSTABLE COUNTY FAIR 3rd week In July Cape Cod hosts an old-fashioned agricultural fair ( p177 ) at Falmouth, with garden displays, farm animals, carnival rides, music and fireworks. INTERNATIONAL TENNIS HALL OF FAME CHAMPIONSHIPS July Although the Hall of Fame is always in Newport, Rhode Island, it is only the championship tournament ( p289 ) that attracts the biggest names in tennis to come play on the grass courts. AUGUST NEWPORT FOLK FESTIVAL early August One of the region s most exciting music events, this folk festival ( p301 ) at Newport, Rhode Island,

8 EVENTS RUNNINGHEAD CALENDAR September December RunningSubhead 19 attracts national stars as well as new names to perform all weekend long. MAINE LOBSTER FESTIVAL 1st week August If you love lobster like Maine loves lobster, why not come along for the week-long Lobster Festival ( p494 ) held in Rockland, Maine? King Neptune and the Sea Goddess oversea a week full of events, from live music to children s activities to fireworks, and of course as much lobster as you can eat. FEAST OF THE BLESSED SACRAMENT 1st weekend in August For almost 100 years, the local Portuguese community has been celebrating this four-day feast ( p169 ) in New Bedford, ; it s now the country s largest. RHODE ISLAND INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL 2nd week in August The region s largest public film festival ( p289 ) in Providence, Rhode Island, attracts interesting, independent films and sophisticated film-savvy audiences. JVC JAZZ FESTIVAL mid-august This, Newport s second music festival ( p301 ) is an equally enticing event, with big names in jazz music. SEPTEMBER BLUES TRUST 3rd weekend in September If you got the blues, you won t want to miss this weekend in September, when Blues Trust ( p116 ) sponsors two days of (free) live jazz music at the Hatch Shell in Boston. BEANTOWN JAZZ FESTIVAL last weekend in September The Berklee College of Music sponsors this free two-day music festival ( p116 ) in Boston s South End. Three stages, panel discussions, food vendors, kids activities and all that jazz. BIG E 2nd half of September Officially known as the Eastern States Exposition ( p243 ), this fair in West Springfield,, features animal shows, carnival rides, cheesy performances and more. OCTOBER WELLFLEET OYSTERFEST weekend after Columbus Day Who can be surprised that a food festival ( p198 ) in Wellfleet celebrates oysters? Come to this huge event for plenty of eating, drinking and slurping. HAUNTED HAPPENINGS October The Witch City of Salem celebrates Halloween ( p147 ) all month long, with special exhibits, parades, concerts, pumpkin carvings, costume parties and trick-or-treating. HEAD OF THE CHARLES 3rd weekend in October This, the world s largest rowing event ( p98 ), takes place in Boston on the River Charles, attracting thousands of rowers and thousands more spectators. LIFE-IS-GOOD PUMPKIN FESTIVAL 3rd Saturday in October On the Saturday before Halloween, good-deeddoers and good gourd-carvers descend on the Boston Common to carve pumpkins for a cause ( p98 ). Boston currently holds the record for the most lit jack-o -lanterns, although Keene, New Hampshire, is vying for the record. KEENE PUMPKIN FESTIVAL 3rd Saturday in October Help Keene win back its title by building a tower of jack-o -lanterns as high as the sky. The size of the town triples for this annual festival ( p425 ). NOVEMBER DECEMBER BOSTON TEA PARTY REENACTMENT Sunday before December 16 New Englanders take their reenactments seriously. In the case of the Tea Party ( p98 ), they dress up like Mohawk Indians and dump tea into the Boston Harbor, just like their forebears in FIRST NIGHT December 31 It actually starts on the last night, on New Years Eve, and continues into the wee hours of the New Year. Activities, performances and other events are held at venues all around Boston ( p98 ). Buy a button and attend as many as you can (but dress warmly and be prepared to stand in line).

9 20 Itineraries CLASSIC ROUTES CAPE COD ROUTE 6A Three Days/Sandwich to Provincetown Only have three days to spare? Welcome to the club. Bostonians head down to the Cape for long weekends throughout the year. After you ve successfully fought the bridge traffic (in summer and on holiday weekends), stop in Sandwich ( p174 ) to chill out at the tranquil Shawme Pond, poke around the oldest house on the Cape and visit a renowned glass museum. Slide slowly down Rte 6A, popping into antique shops and turning left toward Cape Cod Bay wherever it suits your fancy. Stop in Yarmouth Port ( p184 ) to walk the Grey s Beach boardwalk across a marsh to broad views of sand and sea. In Brewster ( p188 ), stop at the Brewster Store and Nickerson State Park and walk the tidal flats. Have a picnic lunch overlooking Rock Harbor or at Nauset Beach in Orleans ( p194 ). If you have fantasies about finding the perfect beach, spend an afternoon at the Cape Cod National Seashore ( p196 ). Bayside or oceanside, the artsy Wellfleet ( p197 ) is a charmer. At night there s only one place to be: Provincetown ( p201 ). Stay for a whale watch and learn about the painters and authors who continue to summer here. From salt marshes and seals to antique and art galleries, Cape Cod offers diversions for every palate. This 121-mile route, manageable in three or four days, takes you to pristine beaches and little-known lobster shacks, tourist attractions and the notorious nightlife of Province town. Sandwich 6A Cape Cod Bay Provincetown Yarmouth Port Cape Wellfleet Cod National Orleans Brewster A T L A N T I C O C E A N Seashore Nantucket Sound

10 lonelyplanet.com ITINERARIES Classic Routes 21 COASTAL NEW ENGLAND Two Weeks/Mystic to Bar Harbour New England is intrinsically tied to the sea historically, commercially and emotionally. To see this connection firsthand, just follow the coastline. Begin in Mystic ( p319 ), where the unmissable Mystic Seaport Museum brings to life a 19th-century maritime village. Nearby, in quaint Stonington ( p323 ), the Old Lighthouse Museum is perched on the peninsula s tip. Bike around Block Island ( p306 ), greet some piping plovers and hit the beach. Then head for Newport ( p294 ), take the Cliff Walk, explore ye olde downtown and spend the evening on Thames St. Dip into Cape Cod briefly at Falmouth ( p176 ) and Woods Hole ( p178 ) to check out a lovely lighthouse, plenty of historic houses surrounding a pictureperfect town green and a world-famous oceanographic institute. Stop at Plymouth ( p164 ) to relive the Pilgrims transatlantic voyage. Then head north to Boston ( p65 ) the region s cultural and intellectual capital. Continue northward to Marblehead (p149) and Salem ( p143 ), both rich in maritime history. To glimpse New England s fishing industry at work (and to sample its culinary treats), journey to Cape Ann (p151). The New Hampshire seacoast is scant, but not without merit: frolic among the waves and visit historic Portsmouth ( p411 ). Explore the handsome buildings of Portland ( p472 ), as well as the Portland Head Light and the Portland Museum of Art. Venture into the lovely (but crowded) Boothbay Harbor ( p490 ) for a harbor cruise. Stop in Camden ( p496 ) to take a windjammer cruise and clamber to the top of Camden Hills State Park for fine views. Beautiful Bar Harbor ( p503 ) and Acadia National Park ( p508 ) are the northernmost and overall highlights of the New England coast. V e r m o n t N e w H a m p s h i r e Salem BOSTON M a s s a c h u s e t t s Portsmouth Cape Ann Marblehead M a i n e Portland Camden Boothbay Harbor A T L A N T I C O C E A N Bar Harbor Acadia National Park New England is inextricably tied to seafaring rhythms. This tour takes about two weeks and links historic and active seaports with beautiful and vibrant coastal communities. It s about 575 miles, but you ll drive more than 700 miles if you start in New York City. R h o d e I s l a n d Plymouth C o n n e c t i c u t Newport Falmouth Woods Hole Mystic Stonington Block Island

11 22 ITINERARIES Classic Routes lonelyplanet.com MOUNTAIN MEANDER One Week/Boston to Stowe Drive up I-93 from Boston to Franconia Notch State Park ( p445 ), where you can hike down the Flume, ride a tramway up Cannon Mountain and see what little remains of the Old Man of the Mountain. Spend the night at one of many welcoming inns in Franconia or Bethlehem ( p447 ). From here, journey east on Rte 302, enjoying spectacular views of the White Mountains all around. Stop at the historic Mount Washington Hotel at Bretton Woods ( p455 ). This is the base for a ride on the Cog Railway (p456) to the top of Mt Washington, New England s highest peak. Or, if you prefer to make the climb on your own two feet, continue on Rte 302 to Crawford Notch State Park ( p456 ), the trailhead for countless hikes in the area. To give your legs a break, drive west across the White Mountain National Forest on the spectacular Kancamagus Highway ( p443 ), and hook up with I-89, which will take you across the border into Vermont. Expansive vistas unfold with abandon as you approach the Green Mountains. Cut over to Killington ( p378 ), great for wintertime skiing and summertime mountain biking. Continue north on VT100, which is often called the spine of the state. Snaking north through the mountains, this classic route feels like a backcountry road, littered with cow-strewn meadows and white-steepled churches. Take your pick of any number of tiny towns along the way, but don t miss Warren and Waitsfield ( p384 ), excellent for browsing art galleries and antique shops. Outdoor enthusiasts should sidle on up to Stowe ( p395 ), as its looming Mt Mansfield is the outdoor capital of northern Vermont. After exerting yourself sledding or skiing, biking or hiking, indulge in some Ben & Jerry s ice cream from the factory in Waterbury ( p401 ). With presidential peaks, rushing waterfalls and swirling flumes, the mountains offer New England s best in outdoor sports, as well as accessible vistas and solitary sojourns. This 400-mile meander takes in the best of the White and Green Mountains in about two weeks. N e w Y o r k Mt Mansfield (4393ft) Stowe Waterbury Waitsfield Warren V e r m o n t 100 Killington Franconia Franconia Notch State Park White Mountain National Forest N e w H a m p s h i r e Bethlehem Cog Railway 302 Mt Washington Bretton Woods Crawford Notch State Park M a i n e Kancamagus Highway 93 M a s s a c h u s e t t s BOSTON

12 lonelyplanet.com ITINERARIES Classic Routes 23 NEW ENGLAND LOOP Three Weeks Spend a few days strolling the historic streets of Boston ( p65 ). Then head up the coast, stopping for witch history and maritime lore in Salem ( p143 ) or hitting the beaches on Cape Ann ( p151 ) or Plum Island ( p161 ). Your next destination is Portland ( p472 ), a hot spot for live music and live lobsters. After a few days on the coast, head inland to New Hampshire. Use North Conway ( p450 ) as a base for exploring Mt Washington Valley, then drive west along the scenic Kancamagus Highway ( p443 ), stopping along the way for a hike in the White Mountains. You will eventually hit Franconia Notch State Park ( p445 ), which is packed with opportunities for hiking, skiing or ogling the spectacular scenery. Take Rte 25 northwest to Montpelier ( p401 ), the country s quaintest capital. Continue northwest on I-89 all the way to Burlington ( p386 ), a lively town with stunning views of Lake Champlain and the Adirondacks. Head south, stopping in Middlebury ( p381 ), a precious college town with buildings bathed in marble. Crossing into Western, stop in Williamstown and neighboring North Adams ( p271 ) to admire the contemporary art at MASS MoCA; and in Lenox ( p264 ) to hear some tunes at Tanglewood. Make your way through Connecticut s lovely Litchfield Hills ( p348 ). In Hartford ( p342 ), you can see the old stomping grounds of two of America s most celebrated authors. Then continue east to Providence, Rhode Island ( p276 ) for progressive politics, excellent art, rockin good music and creamy, cool cabinets. Hop on I-95 north and you re back in Boston quicker than you can say That was wicked awesome. N e w Y o r k Burlington 89 Middlebury V e r m o n t MONTPELIER 25 Franconia Notch State Park N e w H a m p s h i r e Kancamagus Highway White Mountain National Forest North Conway M a i n e Portland Plum Island Urban or rural? Mountains or sea? New England offers a little bit of everything. This route loops through all six New England states, covering 715 miles. You ll want at least three weeks to savor all the sights and enjoy the adventures on the way. Williamstown North Adams Lenox M a s s a c h u s e t t s BOSTON Cape Ann Salem 95 Litchfield Hills HARTFORD C o n n e c t i c u t R h o d e I s l a n d PROVIDENCE

13 24 ITINERARIES Tailored Trips TAILORED TRIPS lonelyplanet.com Litchfield Hills Central Vermont Northeast Kingdom Hanover Keene LEAF-PEEPING It s a major event, one approaching epic proportions in this region: watching leaves change color. You can do it just about anywhere all you need is one brilliant tree. But if you re like most people, you want lots and lots of trees. Right in Boston, the greens of the Boston Common ( p70 ) and the Charles River Esplanade ( p86 ) become multicolored tapestries in October. Or bike the Minuteman Commuter Bikeway ( p93 ) to see the changing colors in the northwestern suburbs. In Connecticut, the Litchfield Hills ( p348 ) offer a clutch of rolling hills between Cornwall Bridge and Salisbury. Little Compton ( p305 ) is a forgotten Rhode Island seaside town of old estates and village greens that are ablaze with color in autumn. Rangeley Lake Bethel Inland Maine Kancamagus Highway Minuteman Commuter Bikeway Bromley Mountain Mount Greylock State Reservation October Mountain State Forest Mount Washington State Forest Kent Boston Common; Charles River Esplanade Little Compton In Vermont, take US 91 north from St Johnsbury to the Canadian border for long vistas of dairy farms and sugar maples, typical of the Northeast Kingdom ( p403 ). Practically anywhere in central Vermont ( p374 ) yields blazes of jawdropping color. The Kancamagus Highway ( p443 ), a breathtakingly beautiful drive across New Hampshire s White Mountains, features spectacular vistas, while the scenic Upper Connecticut River Valley from Keene ( p424 ) to Hanover ( p428 ) yields fantastic river views. Inland Maine has myriad possibilities, chief among them the route between Bethel ( p516 ) and Rangeley Lake ( p518 ). APPALACHIAN TRAIL The Appalachian Trail runs 2100-plus miles from Georgia to Maine, passing through 14 states along the way. If anyone is counting, 730 of those miles and five of those states are in New England. In Connecticut, you can hop on the AT near Kent ( p351 ), but you ll have easier access to the Berkshires rolling hills in. Head to Mt Washington State Forest ( p259 ) or October Mountain State Forest ( p264 ). Or bag the state s highest peak (3491ft) at Mt Greylock State Reservation ( p272 ). To partake of the pastoral splendor of the Green Baxter State Park Appala Trail chian Grafton Notch Mt Washington State Park Franconia Notch State Park Crawford Notch State Park Mountains, follow the AT up Bromley Mountain ( p370 ), starting in Manchester, Vermont. In New Hampshire, the AT traverses the White Mountains, with access points in Franconia Notch State Park ( p445 ) and Crawford Notch State Park ( p456 ). For 13 breathtaking miles, it winds along the alpine crest of the Presidential Range: walk along a rocky ridge well above the tree line and climb the tallest mountain in the Northeast, Mt Washington (6288ft; p457 ). Maine contains the longest stretch of the AT (275 miles). It is easy to access (and tough to hike) at Grafton Notch State Park ( p517 ). The trail s northern terminus is in Baxter State Park ( p519 ) at the amazingly untamed Mt Katahdin (5267ft).

14 lonelyplanet.com ITINERARIES Tailored Trips 25 COLLEGE TOWNS From the Five Colleges to the Seven Sisters (well, four of them), New England is crowded with colleges and overrun with universities, making for a dynamic, diverse student scene. Hundreds of institutions of higher education are located in Boston, including Boston University and Boston College (see p120 ), while neighboring Cambridge is home to academic authorities Harvard University ( p91 ) and Institute of Technology (MIT; p92 ). But Boston is only the beginning of this college tour. Besides the mighty Crimson, as Harvard is known, New England is home to three Ivy League institutions. Yale University ( p331 ) is the centerpiece of the gritty city of New Haven; Dartmouth University ( p429 ) dominates Hanover, making it the quintessential New England college town; and Brown University ( p279 ) lends its progressive viewpoints to Providence. In a league of its own, the Rhode Island School of Design ( p278 ) is also in Providence, making the city one of the edgiest and artiest in the region. In Central, the Pioneer Valley is also known as Five Colleges, it s home to Amherst ( p251 ), Hampshire ( p251 ), Mount Holyoke ( p246 ) and Smith College ( p247 ), as well as UMass Amherst ( p251 ). Other highly regarded liberal arts colleges with lively, leafy campuses include Middlebury College ( p382 ) in Middlebury; Bowdoin College ( p486 ) in Brunswick; and Keene State College ( p424 ) in Keene. REVOLUTIONARY HISTORY Revolutionary history begins in Boston. Follow the Freedom Trail ( p94 ) to learn about the lead-up to the War for Independence. Then go west to Lexington ( p132 ) and Concord ( p135 ), where the first battles took place. Further west, in Springfield, the Armory National Historic Site ( p243 ) commemorates the inexhaustible federal armory that dates to the American Revolution. It started in Boston but it spread throughout the region. The first naval engagement took place in Machiasport ( p512 ), while another Maine battle took place in Castine ( p498 ), where the remains of a fort still stand. Connecticut experienced its first major battle at Stonington ( p323 ), which has exhibits about the battle in its Lighthouse Museum. More famously, Fort Griswold State Park ( p326 ), in Groton, is where colonial troops were massacred in the Battle of Groton Heights. Essex (p340 ) is home to many 18th-century buildings, including the historic Griswold Inn. Vermont residents known as the Green Mountain Boys played a major role in the Battle of Bennington, commemorated by the Bennington Monument and Battlefield Historic Site (p366 ). The gang s leader lived in Burlington, where you can now visit the Ethan Allen Homestead (p387 ). The only Revolutionary War battle fought in New Hampshire was in Portsmouth ( p411 ), which is rich with 18th-century architecture. New Hampshire established the first state constitution and independent seat and government in early 1776 in Exeter ( p418 ). Middlebury College Dartmouth University Keene State College Bowdoin College Harvard University; Boston University, MIT Five colleges: Amherst, Boston College Hampshire, Smith, Mount Holyoke, Brown University; University of RISD Amherst Yale University Burlington; Ethan Allen Homestead Bennington; Monument, Battlefield Historic Site Portsmouth Exeter Essex Concord Lexington Boston; Freedom Trail Springfield; Armory National Historic Site Groton; Fort Griswold State Park Stonington Castine Machiasport

15 The Authors 545 MARA VORHEES Coordinating Author, Boston, Around Boston Born and raised in St Clair Shores, Michigan, Mara traveled the world (if not the universe) before finally settling in the Hub. She now lives in Somerville with her husband and her cat. She spent several years pushing papers and tapping keys at Harvard University, but she has since embraced the life of a full-time travel writer. She is often spotted sipping Sam Seasonal in Union Square and pedaling her bike along the River Charles. Mara is a frequent contributor to the Boston Globe Travel. She is also the author of Lonely Planet s Boston City Guide, among others. My Favourite Trip My preferred mode of travel is bicycle, and there is no better place to ride than Cape Cod. My favorite trip starts with some waterside cycling at the base of the Cape, on the Shining Sea Bicycle Path ( p177 ) in Falmouth or along the Cape Cod Canal ( p174 ) in Sandwich. The mother of Cape Cod bike trails is the Rail Trail ( p188 ), traversing salt marshes, freshwater ponds and shady forests. In Brewster, the Rail Trail passes through Nickerson State Park ( p189 ), its hills and dales offering an adventurous diversion. It ends in Wellfleet, where I can t resist a lobster roll from Moby Dick s ( p199 ). At the tip of the cape, I cycle the Province Lands network of trails through the Cape Cod National Seashore ( p196 ), offering dunes covered in wildflowers and panoramic vistas over the ocean. I cap off my cycling extravaganza in Provincetown with a seaside dinner at Mew s Restaurant ( p207 ). Province Lands Bike Trail Loop Provincetown Cape Cod Canal Wellfleet Cape Cod Bay Sandwich Brewster Falmouth Shining Sea Bicycle Path Rail Trail Rail Trail Nantucket Sound Cape Cod National Seashore Nickerson State Park NED FRIARY & GLENDA BENDURE Cape Cod, Nantucket & Martha s Vineyard Although they ve traveled far and wide, when it was time to call a place home, Ned and Glenda taken by its windswept beauty settled on Cape Cod. Over the years, they ve explored their new home from one end to the other, leaving few rocks unturned. The things they recommend they know from heart. They ve searched for the best lobster roll, canoed the marshes, stayed in old sea captains homes on Nantucket, and hiked and biked the trails. And when summer comes around, it s a rare day that passes without a dip in the sea. THE AUTHORS

16 546 THE AUTHORS lonelyplanet.com RICHARD KOSS Vermont, Connecticut A native New Yorker, Richard has long been enamored with New England, the motherland of his own dear mother. Childhood trips to Boston and longer forays up the coast of Maine kindled a pride in his New England roots. When he grew up to become a freelance travel writer, he leapt at the opportunity to contribute the Vermont and Connecticut chapters to Lonely Planet s New England. Among other guidebooks, Richard covers Jamaica for Lonely Planet. JOHN SPELMAN Rhode Island, The Berkshires, Central John s life changed drastically when he was born in Providence, Rhode Island. Years later, he attended college in Worcester, ruining his stomach lining with the coffee and swill of countless diners. He s canoed in Maine, cried on the Appalachian and Long Trails and endorses his grandfather s policy of drinking every cabinet life provides. John is a PhD student studying architectural history at the University of Virginia and has a Masters of Design Studies from Harvard. He s written for multiple Lonely Planet titles, including Boston and Philadelphia & the Pennsylvania Dutch Country. REGIS ST. LOUIS Maine, New Hampshire A freelance writer based in Manhattan, Regis takes to the mountains and rugged coastline of New England every chance he gets. On his most recent journey, Regis traveled with his dog Cosmic and camped for 41 days, swam in mountain streams in New Hampshire, ate magnificent amounts of Maine lobster and watched the sunrise over the cliffs of America s eastern-most point. Regis has contributed to more than a dozen Lonely Planet titles and his travel articles have appeared in the Chicago Tribune, the Los Angeles Times and Vivre Voyager, among other publications. THE AUTHORS LONELY PLANET AUTHORS Why is our travel information the best in the world? It s simple: our authors are independent, dedicated travelers. They don t research using just the internet or phone, and they don t take freebies in exchange for positive coverage. They travel widely, to all the popular spots and off the beaten track. They personally visit thousands of hotels, restaurants, cafés, bars, galleries, palaces, museums and more and they take pride in getting all the details right, and telling it how it is. Think you can do it? Find out how at lonelyplanet.com.

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