THE XOLOTLAN NORTH LAKE ROUTE.

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1 THE XOLOTLAN NORTH LAKE ROUTE. INTRODUCTION: The route runs close to the shores of Lake Xolotlan, otherwise known as Lake Managua, passing as close as possible to the shore of the Lake and enjoying an environment rich in biodiversity and beautiful views, with a permanent view of the majestic Momotombo Volcano and neighbouring hills. The route (as with all tours in Project "Nicaragua by Pedal") tries to avoid motor traffic in order to provide a peaceful cycle tour. The cycle tourist begins the journey in Port Salvador Allende in Managua at a very important cultural and historical site in the capital city of Nicaragua and allows us to enjoy the recently revamped infrastructure along the Lake side. The crossing by boat to the old port of San Francisco Libre (Port Carlos Fonseca Amador) gives the additional exotic note of a cruise on Lake Xolotan/Managua, and demonstrates the beauty and tourist potential of this lacustrine environment. If the boat crossing is not possible (for example, due to weather conditions or swell) we can travel to San Francisco Libre by bus with our bicycles on the roofrack. These buses leave from Ivan Montenegro Market and the cost of the ticket (including bicycle) is approximately 50 Cordobas. We can also travel on any of the busses that pass along the North Highway (Carratera Norte) to the vicinity of the historical site of San Jacinto, visit the site and then take the road to San Francisco Libre, via approximately 30 km of newly laid mixed tarmac and paving stone. In the first part of this cycle route, taking the exit at the Port Salvador Allende (Municipality of Managua), we ride through the Municipalities of San Francisco Libre (Managua Department), El Jicaral and La Paz Centro, the latter two are in the León Department. If we take the option of reaching San Francisco Libre overland then we also cross the Municipality of Tipitapa (Managua Department). From San Fracisco Libre to Puerto Momotombo the ruins of León Viejo at km-67 form a true delight for the senses. We will cross three major rivers, El Viejo (Grande) which is of great socio-economic importance to Nicaragua, the Sinecapa and the Papalon, this last river with the help of a barge. The journey is nearly flat except for a sector in front the volcanic Island of Momotombito where the road has a series of hills which must be climbed and descended. The degree of difficulty of the route is medium-low in the first half and medium in the second half. We only need to be equipped with a bottle of water that we can be re-filled on the road, food rich in carbohydrates to power-load, and clothing to protect the body and head from direct sun, although shade of the forests will help in that regard. We recommend that you take some spare clothes and a hammock or inflatable mattress, or if you prefer a tent, and a mosquito net that allows you to view the sky at night, or insect repellent if you want to rest in the open. In addition you should have an odometer on the bicycle and/or a GPS configured to UTM coordinates, although the route is described so that the GPS is not essential. A camera to remember the trip is recommended. There is mobile/cellular telephone coverage almost all the way. With a large dose of optimism for the adventure that we have started, we start the route.

2 ROUTE DEGREE OF DIFFICULTY KM FROM UP TO LAKE XOLOTLAN NORTH Low-medium difficulty in the first leg of the course, in the last 30 km medium difficulty 64 San Francisco Libre Puerto Momotombo - ruins of León Viejo. Location: San Francisco Libre, Managua along the shores of Lake Xolotlan to Puerto Momotombo, where the ruins of León Viejo, León are located. Length: 64 km. Users: Cycle tourists and walkers. Terrain: Mixed, compacted earth and fine gravel on the hills and stretches of paving stones. Natural Environment: fresh water wetlands, volcanos, thermal water springs, lake, dry tropical forest, flooded paddy fields, roads accessing great scenic beauty and biodiversity along the northern shore of Lake Managua. Cultural and natural heritage: San Francisco Libre is a town with a variety of landscapes combined with amazing natural hot springs up to 90 C and medicinal mud baths, adjacent to fresh water fishing on Lake Managua and Lakeside Port. A place of transit for General Augusto Cesar Sandino s revolutionary army, San Francisco Libre became a model development of the popular alternative system; more just, supportive and adjusted to the needs, capabilities and characteristics of impoverished people. Recalling the words of Commandante Carlos Fonseca Amador "... and also teach them to read...", through the care of the National Crusade for Literacy by the Association for Peoples Education, Carlos Fonseca Amador declared this town free of illiteracy on the 23 rd August We recommend you read the work of Orlando Pineda, the La Pedagogia del Amor en Nicaragua. We'll cross the River Viejo (Grande), which has great economic and productive importance for Nicaragua. Its waters come from the Apanas reservoir in Jinotega and move the turbines to produce electricity in the hydroelectric power stations Centrales Hidroelectricas Centroamerica and Carlos Fonseca, it is expected that by 2015 it will do the same with the Larreynaga hydroelectric Centre. The river s waters also irrigate large tracts of crops, including the rice paddy fields through which we will pass. The protected area of the Volcano Momotombo allows us to breathe fresh air, sheltered by the green of the trees and set off by the splendour of the blue sky and the beautiful lakeside beaches opposite on the Volcanic Island of Momotombito. Before leaving this imposing mountain we find the Momotombo Volcano Geothermal Power Station, which produces electricity using the earth s heat in the form of steam emanating from the bowels of the Earth in this area. At the end of this route, we find the ruins of León Viejo, a historic monument on the early days of Spanish colonization which shows visitors a surprising upheaval in the distant past, declared a World Heritage Site.

3 Infrastructure: It is recommended to always carry a flashlight or bicycle light. Each cycle tourist can choose their own rest area, there are very beautiful spaces on various small beaches, or in the communities, or on some of the farms next to the route (permission required). How to reach San Francisco Libre?: -By boat: from Port Salvador Allende, Managua to the Port Carlos Fonseca Amador in San Francisco Libre. -By bus: from Iván Montenegro Market, Managua to San Francisco Libre. Connections: -Panamerican Highway North road (Carretera Norte), to the junction at roadside marker km-35, then 30 km to the town of San Francisco Libre. If you prefer to do the route in the opposite direction or to return to the capital take the new road to León (Carretera Nuevo Leon), at roadside marker km-54 turn right at the roundabout to León Viejo. Find the way to the Momotombo Geothermal Power Plant and start the route in reverse to that described above. Cartography: Maps from INETER. Official road map by the Ministry of Transport and Infrastructure ( MTI ) map.

4 LET S BEGIN THE ADVENTURE. Once in San Francisco Libre, you can stay at the Medical Centre for Hydrotherapy and Mud Therapy (cmedic.aguasmilagrosas@live.com or facebook) where you can enjoy hot springs and therapeutic massages.

5 But, if you want to stay overnight in the centre of the town you can stay at the home of Magda Vallejos ( ), with whom you can eat healthy and delicious gallo pinto with fresh fish... and share, talk and rest in a family stay. A patio allows you to hang a hammock and observe how the hens rest by climbing up a stick to their favourite resting place... To embark on the journey, you can contact Carlos José Niño ( ), who will enthusiastically accompany you to the River Viejo (Grande), Carlos fishes here and can share his knowledge and take you to places where you are guaranteed to catch fish. Our starting point is the gate of the Port Carlos Fonseca Amador, here you have it... From here we head northwards 200 m and turn left (West), cross the river over the concrete slab bridge and go around the cemetery to begin the route. km. 3. We are in the area known as El Limón (The Lemon), coordinates E N , take the road on the right.

6 km The River Papaturro can be forded without problem by bicycle, (E N ), in case of a large flood on the Lake (two in the last 15 years) the community-constructed bridge is illustrated in the photo. Km 7.5. A place known as La Mezquina ( The Stingy Lady ), take the track to the left. E N Km When we see a school, take the left fork, looking for the bank of the River Viejo (Grande), which is next. E N We are already in the River Viejo (Grande) area, you can contact Angel Treminio ( ) if you think you will need help to cross the River Viejo (Grande). The water level in this area is below the knees all the way to the other side at the Paso La Tazajera (The Cupmakers crossing). Sometimes Angel sells delicious iced water, maybe if you're lucky you will arrive when there is ice available, or if you are in a group notify him in advance so he has it ready. It is a pleasant and refreshing energy recharge. The flow of the River Viejo (Grande) is regulated on the basis of water used for power generation and irrigation. It is normally not difficult to cross it, but make sure at that moment it is not too

7 deep. Once on the other side take the road to the West, look towards the Momotombo Volcano that rises majestically between rice paddy fields. Km Pass through the rice paddy fields until you reach a crossroads, it is here that we must turn right (North). Look for the "iron gate" and the community of Cuatro Palos (Four Sticks), any worker of the rice paddy field will kindly give directions. E N

8 Km Turn this time to your left (once again to the West). E N At km 13.5 we will cross an irrigation ditch, we recommend carrying your bicycle across, perhaps barefoot, it doesn t hurt to refresh the feet. Km We will find a road of earth and stone (Tarmac) and we have to take the road on the left, always looking for Cuatro Palos (Four Sticks). E N Km. Take the right, always looking for Cuatro Palos (Four Sticks). E N Km Take the left, always looking for Cuatro Palos (Four Sticks). E N Km We cross the bridge over the River Santa Ana. E N Km We are in the community of Cuatro Palos (Four Sticks), E N , on our right is the house of Pilar Altamirano ( ) popularly known as Payita. We can replenish our energy with a Nicaraguan dish and if need be stay overnight in a pretty courtyard under a beautiful tree. We then go to Papalonal, which is on the right from this point. Ask for the house of Carlos Rojas, his rowing boat will transport us to the other side of the River Sinecapa. Km 23. This is the house of Carlos Rojas, E N After the boat crossing we turn left looking to the river where he waits for us in order to point out the way. Crossing roads, fences, farms and trails, we will travel 800 meters before crossing another river that leads to the community of Papalonal, this time in a rustic boat with Carlos ( ), who charges 30 Cordobas (including bicycle) to help you get closer to your destination Km. We are on the river bank, and we will help you load the bike on to the boat, E N , the view is incredibly beautiful. In the past there was a raft to cross the River, today the local people yearn for a pedestrian bridge and are looking for a way to have one built. To the water...

9 at this point you may want to bathe on this side of the river. Once we have crossed the river, we will continue along the existing trail and get to a point where there is a barbed wire gate in the fence at km This is the entrance to El Papalonal Community. Open, pass and close the gate so that livestock does not escape. E N Km 26. We reach the end at E N , we turn left near a small ramp made of rocks and concrete a few metres away.

10 Km A place called El Sajino, but which actually smells quite good. We have to continue straight ahead looking for Rancho Valle Verde (Green Valley Ranch) E N Km We have reached the gate to Rancho Valle Verde (Green Valley Ranch), E N , if you are tired, perhaps ask permission to put up your hammock or tent. To continue on the route we take the track that goes to the right of the gate, between barbed wire fences, looking for Rancho Pantaleon. Km We have reached the gate of Rancho Pantaleon, E N We take the track that goes to the left of the gate, between barbed wire fences, looking for Los Mejia Farm. We are now in the Momotombo Protected Area. As we get closer to Lake Managua, we approach El Cardon and we cross the Hacienda of Luis Mejía ( ) who will help by opening the gate if it is with padlocked, and confirm the way to Puerto Momotombo and León Viejo. km We are at the gate of El Cardon (Los Mejia Farm), which is probably padlocked, but access is permitted for cycle tourists and walkers. E N If it is not possible to contact Luis Mejía we will have to find a way through the fence with the bicycles, it is possible to pass the bicycles under the fence if we find the appropriate place on the track to the left, parallel to the metal gate. Go through the barbed wire gate adjacent to the large metal gate. Climb the track parallel up to the top of the rise and there we will find a gap between the barbed wire and the ground. This seems a difficult operation, but we're going to resolve it without complications if we follow these directions. Continue for 6km to Los Cardones through several unlocked gates. Please leave the gates closed so that livestock does not escape. Remember that we are in a Protected Area and we can see flocks of birds on the edge of the Lake and wetlands. Although the road splits in two, it later comes back together, so we can choose our own preferred route, the track closest to Lake Xolotlan/Managua is suggested. You have the possibility to spend the night and place your hammock or tent on this farm, and take an excursion by foot to the lava flows that originated from Momotombo Volcano.

11 Km We have reached at the exit gate of the Momotombo Protected Area at Papalonal. E N Km At this gate we leave Luis Mejía Farm. It is probably locked, but access is permitted to cycle tourists and walkers. E N If it is not possible to contact Luis Mejía we must find a place to pass through the fence with the bicycles. From this point the route is very easy, we just have to follow close to the Lake, you can see the volcanic island of Momotombito with its beautiful small beaches, as well as a rest area. We have to pace ourselves because there are still nearly 26 Km to the end, with some undulations. It is likely that we will go faster in this part of the journey because the road is tarmac, but look-out for loose sand and gravel better to slow down than to fall.

12 Km At the T-junction with the road to the Momotombo Geothermal Plant, E N , turn left. Km At the detour on the road to the Momotombo Geothermal Plant, E N , turn left. Km 51. We are at the exit gate of the Momotombo Geothermal Plant E N From here you have the option of an excursion to climb Momotombo Volcano via approximately 4km of tracks and an additional 3 hours ascent by foot to the Summit. km At the crossroads, E N , turn left. km At the crossroads, the road changes to paving stones E N , turn left.

13 Our itinerary up to the ruins of León Viejo is completed after 64 very beautiful and varied kilometres. Note that at the entrance to Puerto Momotombo is the Momotombo Hotel.There are the ruins of León Viejo to visit, as well as the beach of Puerto Momotombo, where the sunrises and the full moon nights are spectacular. Some of the many ruins of León Viejo, concealing fascinating and heartbreaking stories of struggle for power and domination: