CONTENTS. Exploring Capri 118 Gastronomic Highlights 126. Recommended Shops 137 Transport 138

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1 Lonely Planet LONELYPLANET.COM CONTENTS 25 CONTENTS INTRODUCING NAPLES & THE AMALFI COAST 4 GETTING STARTED 8 FESTIVALS & EVENTS 1 CULTURE 12 FOOD & DRINK 16 THE OUTDOORS 2 FAMILY TRAVEL 24 THE AUTHORS 28 ITINERARIES 29 NAPLES 33 GETTING STARTED 36 Introducing Naples 38 Essential Information 38 Orientation 38 Walking Tour 39 Exploring Naples 41 Festivals & Events 84 Gastronomic Highlights 84 Nightlife 92 Recommended Shops 94 Transport 97 BAY OF NAPLES 99 Transport 99 Exploring the Bay of Naples 1 Gastronomic Highlights 11 THE ISLANDS 111 GETTING STARTED 114 CAPRI 116 Essential Information 117 Orientation 118 Walking Tour 118 Exploring Capri 118 Gastronomic Highlights 126 THE BEST OF NAPLES & THE AMALFI COAST 129 Recommended Shops 137 Transport 138 ISCHIA 139 Essential Information 139 Orientation 139 Exploring Ischia 139 Festivals & Events 147 Gastronomic Highlights 147 Nightlife 15 Recommended Shops 15 Transport 151 PROCIDA 152 Essential Information 152 Exploring Procida 152 Festivals & Events 155 Gastronomic Highlights 155 Recommended Shops 156 Transport 157 THE AMALFI COAST 158 SORRENTO 159 Essential Information 159 GETTING STARTED 162 Orientation 165 Exploring Sorrento 165 Festivals & Events 168 Gastronomic Highlights 168 Nightlife 17 Recommended Shops 17 Transport 171

2 26 CONTENTS LONELYPLANET.COM WEST OF SORRENTO 172 Massa Lubrense 172 Sant Agata Sui due Golfi 173 The Blue Ribbon Drive 175 Marina del Cantone 176 EAST OF SORRENTO 176 AMALFI TOWNS 178 Transport 178 Positano 178 Praiano 184 Furore 185 Amalfi 186 Ravello 192 Minori 195 Cetara 196 Vietri sul Mare 196 SALERNO & THE CILENTO 198 SALERNO 199 Essential Information 199 Orientation 199 GETTING STARTED 22 Exploring Salerno 24 Gastronomic Highlights 26 Transport 27 PAESTUM 27 Essential Information 28 Exploring Paestum 28 Transport 29 PARCO NAZIONALE DEL CILENTO E VALLO DI DIANO 29 Essential Information 29 Parco Nazionale del Cilento Driving Tour 211 Exploring the Parco Nazionale del Cilento 212 Gastronomic Highlights 215 AGROPOLI & THE CILENTO COAST 215 Transport 216 Agropoli 216 Cilento Coast 217 Palinuro 22 BACKGROUND 222 HISTORY 223 THE SOUTHERN STAGE 233 SAINTS, SINNERS & SUPERSTITIONS 239 THE SUBTERRANEAN CITY 244 BAROQUE NAPLES 249 THE CAMPANIAN TABLE 255 FOOD & DRINK GLOSSARY 261 ACCOMMODATION 263 Naples 264 The Islands 27 The Amalfi Coast 276 Salerno & the Cilento 286 DIRECTORY 291 Business Hours 291 Customs Regulations 291 Dangers & Annoyances 292 Discount Cards 294 Embassies & Consulates 294 Food & Drink 294 Gay & Lesbian Travellers 295 Health 295 Holidays 296 Insurance 296 Internet Access 296 Legal Matters 297 Maps 297 Money 297 Post 299 Telephone 299 Time 3 Toilets 3 Tourist Information 3

3 LONELYPLANET.COM CONTENTS 27 Travellers with Disabilities 31 Visas & Permits 31 Women Travellers 32 TRANSPORT 33 Arrival & Departure 33 Getting Around 34 LANGUAGE 313 GLOSSARY 32 BEHIND THE SCENES 323 INDEX 331 MAP LEGEND 336

4 NAPLES & THE AMALFI COAST NAPLES p38 Lose yourself in Naples evocative centro storico (historic centre) Caserta ^ To Rome (185km) PROCIDA p152 Beach hop around the soothing island of Procida POMPEII Gulf of Gaeta (Golfo di Gaeta) Mt Epomeo (786m) Seek ancient frescoes on the ghostly streets of Pompeii $ p13 /¼A1 Gaudello ] Aversa Sant'Arpino Caivano Acerra Qualiano Giugliano Pomigliano in Campania d'arco Marigliano Marano di Nola Napoli Casavatore San Gennaro Lido di Somma Licola "1 Naples Vesuviano Vesuviana Lago Naples ^ Airport d'averno (Capodichino) Mt Ve suvius ] Pozzuoli Portici (Ve suvio $ 1281m) Monte di Herculaneum Procida Torre del Terzigno Greco Torre Ischia Procida Annunziata Bay of Naples Pompeii (Golfo di Napoli) Castellammare ] di Stabia Mt Sant' Angelo a Vico Equense Tre Pizzi (1443m) $ Sorrento ] Positano Mt San Sant'Agata Costanzo$ Marina (497m) del Cantone $ Capri Mt Solaro (589m CAPRI p116 Escape the hordes in the stunning Capri countryside Tyrrhenian Sea DISTANCE CHART (KM ) Caserta 26 Sorrento Positano Amalfi Salerno Agropoli POSITANO p178 Soak up some sun in the Mediterranean jewel of Positano Naples Caserta Sorrento Positano Amalfi Note: Distances between destinations are approximate Salerno

5 2 miles LEGEND MT VESUVIUS ELEVATION Freeway p18 18m 15m 12m 9m 6m 3m Primary Road Secondary Road Peer into the mouth of a slumbering menace Tertiary Road Railway line Airport 4 km! Avella Gaudi RAVELLO ^ Avellino To Bari (172km) p192 Feed your soul with music and beauty at Ravello s summer arts festival Quindici Sarno A3 / ¼ Mt dell' Cava Avvocaata (114m) $ A3 / ¼ Acerno Montecorvino ^ Salerno Maiori To Reggio di Calabria (395km); Matera (15km) Eboli Amalfi Battipaglia À 8 Gulf of Salerno (Golfo di Salerno) SS18 Sel e Postiglione Sicignano degli Alburni Nocera Petina Altavilla Silentina Controne Parco Nazionale Castelcivita del Cilento e Vallo di Diano (Cilento San Angelo National Park & the a Fasanella Valley of Diana) Capaccio Paestum Roccadaspide Oligastro Agropoli Cilento Santa Maria di Castellabate PARCO NAZIONALE DEL p29 CILENTO Take in Castelcivita s Technicolor grottoes in the Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo di Diano (Cilento National Park & the Valley of Diana)

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