ADRI AND JOHAN SNYMAN S NORTHERN CAPE TRIP DIARY 31 MARCH TO 18 APRIL 2010

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1 ADRI AND JOHAN SNYMAN S NORTHERN CAPE TRIP DIARY 31 MARCH TO 18 APRIL 2010 BACKGROUND The Federation of South African Gem- and Mineral Societies (a group of people collecting rocks and minerals at operating and abandoned mines, stockpiles, mineral outcrops etc) have an annual get-together (Gemboree) for all the affiliated clubs during Easter weekend. The 2010 event was scheduled to take place in Kuruman and, as usual, it did not require much persuasion, or encouragement, to extend the trip by several days. Our trip would span a period of 19 days, cover a distance of approximately 5000 km, and our route was determined by the availability of accommodation in the Kgalagadi National Park. PARTICIPANTS Malcolm and Margaret Jackson, from Milnerton in the Western Cape, in their 1994 Land Rover Defender Tdi CSW. Adri and I, from Stellenbosch in the Western Cape, in our 1998 Land Rover Defender Tdi Hardtop. J Snyman 1

2 PREPARATIONS The Jacksons had extensive modifications done to their vehicle and it now featured a rooftop tent that formed an integral part of the Landie s roof, sliding mountings for 2 Engel fridges and a revised packing system. No special work, or modifications, was done to our vehicle, but we seriously upgraded Adri s photographic equipment. LEGALITIES As we would be passing through Namibia en-route to the Kgalagadi, we obtained licenses from the Namibia Communications Commission for the 29MHz radios at a cost of N$48-00 each. The licenses are issued in a matter of days and our ICASA can certainly learn a thing or two from their Namibian counterparts about fast and efficient service. The license is valid for a year and in the form of a disc that is stuck to the inside of the vehicle s windscreen. We all displayed ZA stickers on the rear of our vehicles as it is a legal requirement to display the vehicle s country of origin when it crosses international borders. Although the rule is hardly ever enforced the fine for transgressing it is N$ We paid our Namibian Road Tax of N$200 per vehicle upon entry at Noordoewer. As we would not be passing through any major towns while travelling in Namibia, we had to carry all our food and this presented a bit of a problem.. Due to the recent outbreak of Rift Valley fever in South Africa no red meat may be taken into Namibia from South Africa and we could only pack chicken and pork into our vehicles freezers. THE TOUR Wednesday 31 March We left Stellenbosch at 13h30 and travelled via Klipheuwel and Malmesbury to the N7, and from there had an uneventful drive to Springbok. We stopped en-route to buy mango s and sweet potatoes, and pitched our tent at the Springbok Caravan Park. The campsite was neat and tidy and the cost of accommodation was R110 for the 2 of us. J Snyman 2

3 Total distance for the day was 580km (all of it on tar) and our travelling time was a leisurely 7 hours. Thursday 1 April After a quiet night we made an early start and travelled along the N14 to Kuruman and the premises of the Kalahari High School. The town of Kuruman was one of the places with the most litter lying in the streets that we have seen for a long time and the traffic was chaotic with people driving and stopping wherever they like. As it was school holidays, the Gemboree took place on the school premises. The people that camped did so under the camelthorn trees next to the sports fields, while others stayed in the school s hostel. The school hall was bustling with activity as this is where registration for the event took place and dealers had also set up tables with their wares on display. It was also time to meet old friends from all over Southern Africa. We attended a talk by Pieter de Bruyn on the Kuruman Manganese Fields that evening. Total distance for the day was 670km (all of it on tar) and our travelling time 8 hours. J Snyman 3

4 Friday 2 April Participants were still arriving, and that afternoon we visited the homes and shops of some of the local collectors and dealers. The evening was the official opening ceremony of the Gemboree and professor Bruce Cairncross gave a presentation on the geological formation and history of the Kuruman Manganese Fields, while Ludy von Bezing gave a presentation on the minerals found in the area. Total distance for the day was 12km (all of it on tar). Saturday 3 April We visited several mineral deposits, i.e. an old manganese mine, a deposit of Jasper and a mine where Tigers Eye, Kalahari Sunset Jasper and Banded Ironstone could be collected. J Snyman 4

5 We visited the Moffat Mission Station on our way back. This is the place where Robert Moffat, and his family, lived from 1820 to 1870 and well worth a visit. We also walked in the garden where the tree stood under which dr David Livingstone asked Mary Moffat to marry him. Total distance for the day was 129km (104km on tar and 25km on gravel). Sunday 4 April We visited a farm where quartz crystals could be collected and on the way back visited The Eye in Kuruman as well as the Truce Tree. The Eye is a fountain which delivers 20 million litres of water per day, even during the severest drought, and there is a large pool with thousands of fish swimming in it. The Truce Tree is a camelthorn, that has since died and fallen over, that earned a place in history in 1914 when a truce was signed beneath it after rebel troops on their way to assist the German forces in Namibia clashed with the local Union troops stationed at Kuruman. J Snyman 5

6 During the afternoon the proceedings were wrapped up and the closing ceremony held. Total distance for the day was 162km (42km on tar and 120km on gravel). Monday 5 April It was time to bid old, and some new, friends farewell as each went their separate way. We made our way along the N14 via Upington, Keimoes and Kakamas. About 80km from Upington we encountered heavy rain. We eventually turned north off the N14 to the farm Raapenskraap, belonging to Keboes Fruit Farms. This is a commercial farm of 4000ha and you have to see it to believe it. You are driving through this barren and desolate landscape, and as you crest a hill there are patches of green to be seen everywhere. 700ha is irrigated, and on this they have 320ha under table grapes, 80ha under maize, 7ha under citrus, and the rest is taken up by date plantations, onions, potatoes and watermelon. They have a neat campsite, with electricity, flushing toilets, hot showers and free firewood. All for R20 per person per night. Total distance for the day was 510km (499 on tar and 11 on gravel) and our travelling time 7¼ hours. Tuesday 6 April We first visited an old veldspar and mica mine on the property before taking the R358 back to the N14. J Snyman 6

7 We refuelled the vehicles at Pofadder and then made our way to the start of the Namakwa 4x4 route. The track runs over farm land and passes through the town of Pella where we had to show our permits to the lady manning the Information office. From there we made our way via Charle s Pass to the Orange River Total distance for the day was 146km (42km on tar and 104km on gravel, rock and sand) and our travelling time 7½ hours. Wednesday 7 April After a quiet night we continued following the route. Between Goodhouse and Henkries the Government has spent millions installing irrigation systems for small farmers but this infrastructure is in a terrible state of disrepair and it is sad to see that crops have been allowed to wither and die. We camped next to the Orange River and also managed to catch, and release, some yellowfish. J Snyman 7

8 Total distance for the day was 206km (all of it on gravel, rock and sand) and our travelling time 9 hours. J Snyman 8

9 Thursday 8 April We made an early start and stopped at some mineral outcrops and old mines along the route. Numerous half-mens plants can be seen growing on the rocky slopes. At the end of the route we inflated the vehicle s tyres and made our way via Vyfmylpoort to Noordoewer, where we crossed into Namibia. The officials manning both border posts were not interested in the contents of our vehicles or their fridges and we cleared both border posts within a matter of minutes. After refuelling the vehicles we may our way along the C13/D212, which is now tarred all the way to Aussenkehr, before turning north-east to follow the track along the Gamchab River to the D316 and C10 to Ai-Ais. J Snyman 9

10 The facilities at Ai-Ais have been upgraded and all the buildings now have thatched roofs. The pools behind the luxury flats now look very smart, but were standing empty during our visit.. The cost to camp amounted to N$75 for the campsite as well as N$75 per person per night. Total distance for the day was 219km (77km on tar and 142km on gravel and sand) and our travelling time 7¾ hours. J Snyman 10

11 Friday 9 April We travelled along the C10 to Karasburg and the C11 past Aroab until we eventually turned east and south onto the D503. Along the way Malcolm s Landy developed a problem when the alternator stopped charging. Upon investigation we found that the terminal of the main earth cable of the battery had broken off. Fortunately we had the required spare parts in our Landy and we could proceed after a short delay. The D503 starts off as a gravel road but after 39km s becomes a sand track that winds its way between through red Kalahari sand dunes over private farms. We obtained permission to camp next to the road at one of the farms. Total distance for the day was 525km (10km on tar and 515km on gravel and sand) and our travelling time 10 hours. Saturday 10 April After a quiet night we proceeded along the D503 to the C15 and followed that to the Mata Mata Entrance Gate into the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. We had to clear Namibian Customs and Immigration and the formalities were dealt with in minutes. But, oh dear, on the South African side. There is one lady manning the office and she has to confirm your booking, issue your permit, answer the telephone, attend to the radio, and it does not help if a Namibian Tour Guide with 2 French tourists arrives there minutes before you without an advance booking and insists on being accommodated in a Park that is fully booked while the computer system is not functioning. We settled into Mata Mata Campsite, went for an afternoon drive, and then undertook the Parks Sunset drive in one of their vehicles. Total distance for the day was 72km (all of it on gravel) and our travelling time 3hours. J Snyman 11

12 Sunday 11 April We went for an early morning drive and encountered numerous Springbuck, Red Hartebees, Blue Wildebeest and Oryx and many different species of birds. We spent a restful afternoon in camp enjoying the antics of the resident population of ground squirrels. Total distance for the day was 53km (all of it on gravel). J Snyman 12

13 Monday 12 April We moved on to Nossob Camp. Total distance for the day was 184km (all of it on a gravel road). Tuesday 13 April We drove towards Unions End, had lunch at the picnic spot at Lijersdraai, and returned to Nossob Camp. Total distance for the day was 153km (all of it on gravel). J Snyman 13

14 Wednesday 14 April We moved on to Twee Rivieren Camp. We stopped at the Auchterlonie Museum where a house of one of the pioneer farmers in the early 1900 s has been restored. Total distance for the day was 220km (all of it on gravel). Thursday 15 April We drove towards Mata Mata up to the 14 th borehole, had lunch at the picnic spot at Kanqua, and returned to Twee Rivieren Camp. We encountered some large herds of springbok, a flock of Abdim s Storks and cheetahs on 2 occasions. 3 of them were watching some springbok intently while the other 2 were guarding a fresh kill. J Snyman 14

15 Total distance for the day was 192km (all of it on gravel). Friday 16 April It was time to bid the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park with its terribly corrugated gravel roads goodbye and start heading home. We cleared Immigration and Customs at the new Reception complex without any problems and proceeded along the R360 to Upington, the N14 to Keimoes, the R27 to Kenhardt, the R361 to Van Wyksvlei and Carnarvon, the R36 to Loxton, the R381 to the N1 near Beaufort West and the N1 to the Karoo National Park where we camped for the night. Total distance for the day was 810km (497km on tar and 313km on gravel) and our travelling time 11 hours. Saturday 17 April We drove up the Klipspringer Pass to the various viewpoints, saw the resident black eagles sunning themselves on the cliff face and then made our way along the N1 to Touwsrivier where we said goodbye to the Jacksons as they carried on home along the N1 while we turned off on the R318 to Montague to visit Adri s parents. Total distance for the day was 421km (413km on tar and 8km on gravel) and our travelling time 5½ hours. J Snyman 15

16 Sunday 18 April We reluctantly left Montague the afternoon and had an uneventful drive home. Total distance for the day was 186km (all of it on tar) and our travelling time 2 hours. CONCLUSION This has been yet another memorable trip with my favourite travelling companion and some great friends during which we travelled through some diverse habitats and were able to see and experience some wonderful landscapes. We drove a total distance of 5450km in the 19 days, of which 3132km was on tarred roads and 2318km on gravel roads and rocky- and sandy tracks J Snyman 16