Alpine Road Trip. July 21-24, 2010

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1 Alpine Road Trip July 21-24, 2010 The Santa Rosa Cycling Club s second out-of-town group adventure of 2010 will be a three-stage mini-tour in the heart of California s Sierra Nevada mountain range. We ll also visit the Carson Valley, over the line in nearby western Nevada. The Alpine Road Trip, as we re calling it, will be staged from a single campground at Grover Hot Springs State Park. The park is located just outside the tiny mountain hamlet of Markleeville, county seat of Alpine County. Markleeville is about 20 miles (as the crow flies) southeast of Lake Tahoe. Alpine County is the least populated county in California and one of the most beautiful. Around 25% of the county s 800 permanent residents live in Markleeville, an historic silver mining town founded in There are a few motels and restaurants and a small general store in town, but not much else. Alpine County boasts peaks of over 11,000 in height, and nearly every square foot of land is more than 5,000 above sea level. The rocky summits punctuate green meadows and lush forests of pine, fir and aspen. All rides will be essentially out-and-backs that stage out of Markleeville, as we explore most of the turf of the famous Death Ride, and then some, including Carson Valley to the northeast and Lake Alpine to the southwest. While the climbing ranges from moderate to difficult, the route lengths are generally of the short to medium variety. Each day s ride can be enhanced or reduced in both length and difficulty (more on that below). The scenery promises to be fantastic, the roads are in good condition and mostly lightly traveled, and the weather is typically perfect for outdoor activities in mid-july. 1 ALPINE ROAD TRIP

2 There will be both similarities and important differences as one compares this trip to the club s more typical week-long tours. We will meet at the club warehouse as usual and carpool for the roughly 4.5- hour drive to the Sierra. This time, however, there will be no large truck to carry the bulky stuff and no sag wagons (or sag support on the rides). Everyone will need to transport themselves, their bikes, gear and supplies as part of the carpool arrangements. Participants will need to be at least partially self-contained in the food department, in that you will be on your own in terms of breakfasts, lunches and other pocket food. Also complicating matters somewhat is the fact that Grover charges rather onerous parking fees for more than one car per campsite. Therefore, carpooling becomes even more important. We ll discuss this in more detail as the trip dates draw near. Some creativity may be required. As is the case with nearly all of our club tours, this one will also be predominantly a camping tour, although this time there will be the option of staying at one of a couple of the modest motels in Markleeville. These provide the basic comforts at moderate prices (typically about $85 to $100 per night). Those opting to stay in town rather than at the campground will be charged a reduced tour fee, but the costs of those overnight accommodations are not included in the entry fee. For those of you who have been wanting to join a club tour but don t particularly like camping come on along! We can provide contact information for the motels and even try to help match you up with a roommate, upon request. Grover Hot Springs State Park is located 3.5 miles to the west of town, and includes a very nice campground, natural hot springs, swimming pool (left), and showers (bring quarters!). Most of us will overnight there for the duration of the trip, and that will be the location for the non-riding group activities. Upon arriving in Markleeville on the first afternoon of the tour (the Wednesday travel day), everyone is on his or her own for dinner. We plan to reach the campground by around 4:00 or 5:00 PM. There is at least one dinner restaurant in town, or one can prepare a camp meal, or join a few of us who are likely to trek over to the nearby ranch and gambling town of Gardnerville, Nevada, for a Basque familystyle dinner at a well-known local establishment. For the remaining two nights of the trip (Thursday and Friday), there will be group BBQ dinners provided and these are included in the tour fee. We ll be recruiting a few of you to help out with the cooking and cleanup, similar to what we would do on any tour. The BBQs will be held at the Grover group picnic area (below) near the campground entrance. Eating in large groups (more than eight people) is not allowed at the campsites themselves. ALPINE ROAD TRIP 2

3 After completing your ride each day, you may want to avail yourself to the pleasures of the Grover Hot Springs pool complex. (There is a $5 entry charge that is not included in the tour fee.) There are two 50-foot long outdoor pools. The soothing natural spring water of the hot pool is kept at around 102 degrees, while the cool water pool is chlorine-treated and at 75 degrees or so. The rides officially start each morning at the Alpine County Courthouse (above), located in Markleeville (bottom photo) at the corner of Water Street and Highway 89 (this is also Highway 4, and it constitutes the main street of town). Therefore, you can add seven miles (round trip) to any given route by riding to the start from the campground. The stage lengths below do not include these additional miles. We list various ride stage options according to what we feel are logical choices, based on the terrain and water/food availability. But keep in mind that since the routes are out-and-backs, you are of course free to simply turn around and head back to the beginning at any time. The stage lengths each day can be whatever you want them to be. For those who choose the standard short route options, the tour will add up to around 125 miles and 8,000 of elevation gain. This represents a reasonably comfortable average of 42 miles and just under 2,700 per day. On the other end of the spectrum, one choosing all of the longest options and riding from Grover each day would end up with roughly 200 miles and 16,000 of climbing. (A Terrible Two, spread over three days.) You decide how tough, or how easy, to make it on yourself. Here is some background information that won t be repeated in the descriptions of the individual stages, but is applicable to all: as noted above, we officially start the rides at the courthouse in Markleeville. You can either ride or drive to that location. The start times will be discussed and determined beforehand, as found to be practical. Parking is available at the County Administration Building adjacent to the courthouse, and there are also public restrooms nearby. Water is available at an outdoor fountain immediately across the highway. There is a coffee shop in town for breakfast that opens at 8:00 AM (or fend for yourself). Self-reliance also applies to pocket food and water during the rides, although there is a general store and deli in Markleeville (business hours uncertain). Do your homework and be prepared! Upon completion of the third stage of the tour on Saturday, we drive home. Check-out time at the campground is noon, so we will need to be out of there prior to starting that day s ride. It would be possible, however, to return to the pool complex after the ride and clean up and/or change out of your bike clothes before leaving the area. 3 ALPINE ROAD TRIP

4 Stage 1: Markleeville to Genoa, Nev. 55 miles and 2500 (round trip) Today is warm-up day, when everyone has the opportunity to acclimate to the elevation (around 6000 at the campground). The terrain is generally moderate, although it can be windy in the middle portion of the route. Food and water are available in Genoa (the turnaround point) and there is also food and water to be found at Walley s Resort (near Genoa) or in Woodfords (on the return only). Many will probably want to have lunch either in Genoa or Woodfords or bring something along to keep yourself fueled up. The route consists of rolling hills that build to a modest crest between Markleeville and Diamond Valley, as we leave the Sierra and travel northeastward into a gradually drier ALPINE ROAD TRIP 4 landscape of sage and pinion pine. Passing through the virtual ghost towns of Paynesvile and Fredericksburg, we enter the Carson Valley of Nevada (both photos at left). From there, the route follows the eastern front of the mighty Sierra along the steppes that separate the peaks to the west from the sub-irrigated pastures to the east. The water table here is nearly right at the ground surface all year round, making the region ideal for the many cattle ranches you will see as we move along. (Feed for the livestock that waters itself!) Unfortunately, however, the area is getting progressively more and more cluttered with residential subdivisions that seem out of place in this quintessential western setting. All in all though, still a pleasant stretch of cycling. The grade almost imperceptibly descends to 4800 as we reach Genoa (low point of the tour). Our destination is the Mormon Station State Park in Genoa (bottom photo), Nevada s first permanent settlement (1851). From here, we turn around and head back toward what at one time was a Pony Express station in the town of Woodfords. In fact, much of the day s route traces one of the old Pony Express trails. Not far outside Genoa is Walley s Resort, a restored version of another old local relic. Please try

5 to ignore this place, unless you re completely out of water or have some other emergency. We pass it in both directions of travel on the day, but have no time for decadent pamperings of the sort they ply there! Luxury accommodations, natural hot springs, spa treatments, manicures, massages, fine dining who needs it! But seriously, if you insist on making some kind of Faustian bargain, this would be an ideal place to make such a deal. On a similar note, if you are a gourmet and looking to augment your bike trip with a fancy dinner, we recommend La Ferme in Genoa (French, expensive and a reservation probably required). Back to matters at hand, we take a slightly different path on our way back to Markleeville than the one followed on the outbound leg of the day s ride. Upon reaching Highway 88 once again (south of Fredericksburg), we take a right on Carson River Road and follow the west fork of the Carson River back into the mountains and to Woodfords. This route (more so than the alternatives) is somewhat protected from the strong head and cross winds that commonly blow out of the westward canyons in the afternoons. From the Highway 4 junction, it s only about seven miles back to Markleeville, or eleven miles to camp at Grover. The grades are more up than down on the return trip from Genoa, but very gradual for the most part. If your bike is equipped with cruise control use it and save some leg for tomorrow. This is the main event of the trip. There is no place to get lost, as the route does not wander from Highway 4 all day. Not a bad thing, since State Highway 4 in this area is considered by many to be one of the premier cycling roads in California. Both the miles and the climbing will be the most challenging on this day s ride. And further, there are very few options available for food or water along the route. The only commercial establishment you will find today between the ride start and Lake Alpine (our lunch stop) is the Carson River Resort, just a few miles south of Markleeville. This place has a small store where water and limited food are available. There is one other location that has water only, and that is the Silver Creek Campground, 12 miles south of Markleeville. We highly recommend that you not pass this campground in either direction without making sure you are topped up with water. This is particularly true in the outbound direction, as you will be about to embark on some serious climbing! Stage 2: Markleeville to Lake Alpine 66 miles and 7000 (round trip) 48 miles and 5000 (round trip to Hermit Valley turnaround) 37 miles and 3300 (round trip to Ebbetts Pass turnaround) As the route leaves the courthouse and heads south, we first pass a few high mountain meadows and cattle ranches. We then pick up the path of the East Carson River (above) and wind our way upstream, gradually climbing toward another couple of ghost towns. These are (or were) Centerville and Silver Mountain City. Silver City was once a larger town than Markleeville, but once the silver played out, so did the town. You might notice that we eventually 5 ALPINE ROAD TRIP

6 pass one formerly stately residence (Chalmers Mansion) that still has its own silver smelter. There are also a few cow camps in evidence as we approach Silver Creek. Up until now, the grades are moderate. But everything is about to change. At somewhere near the Silver Creek Campground, what has been obvious from the start but not yet in evidence suddenly becomes clear: we have a mountain range to crest prior to reaching our westward destination. No more gentle creekbed ascending. After our water stop, there will be a series of switchbacks, aspen groves, and narrow cliff-hangers as we climb to Kinney Reservoir and finally Ebbetts Pass (left), high point of the tour at At this elevation, there are mostly fir trees and a few others with stunted growth. The majority of pine species can t survive this far up. But now some relief, in that there is a big descent to Hermit Valley at We ll probably have a rest stop here, at the banks of the upper Mokelumne River. There is a picnic table or two on the left side of the road, across from an informal campground with little to no improvements. The valley floor here is dead flat, with willows, conifers and meadow grasses. From Hermit Valley, there is a slight climb to Pacific Valley, and then we get the payback for that nice descent we enjoyed on the west side of Ebbetts Pass. This is the Pacific Grade. The climb to Pacific Grade Summit at 8050 is on the short side, but steep, topping out at 24%. The scenic little Mosquito Lakes (middle photo) and cabins at the summit are popular fodder for landscape painters. Next, the route follows a rolling, but slightly descending path to Lake Alpine (at 7350 ). Lake Alpine is a bustling camping, boating, and fishing destination. There is a lodge (left) with full services, and this will be our lunch stop and turnaround point. It really isn t a lake at all, but a reservoir built by PG&E many years ago. Still, a pretty ALPINE ROAD TRIP 6

7 place that would have made for a fine lake anyway, had nature wanted to put one there. We re betting our Sonoma County peloton will enjoy its visit to Lake Alpine. Now all we have to do is ride back to where we started! Except for the fact that it s later in the day, you should find the climbs a bit easier in the return direction (above, climbing back to Ebbetts Pass), but the descents are very steep and winding. The road is narrow and there s often minimal room between the rocks on the upside and nearly vertical drop-offs on the opposite side. Be extra cautious and watch out for approaching cars that are sometimes swinging wide around blind corners. Highway 4 has no marked centerline here, so drivers often take liberties that could prove hazardous to an oncoming cyclist. Stage 3: Markleeville to Carson Pass 43 miles and 3500 (basic round trip) 56 miles and 5000 (long route to Caples Lake turnaround) 32 miles and 2200 (short route to Hope Valley turnaround) Today is getaway day, not to mention the third consecutive ride day, so the legs are likely to be somewhat tenderized and the routes are designed to be a little shorter than yesterday (depending on which one you choose). Water and food are available in Woodfords and at two small cabin/resort establishments upon reaching Hope Valley (Sorensen s and Hope Valley Resorts). There is also water available at the Hope Valley turnaround point. We cannot guarantee water will be available at the Carson Pass or Caples Lake turnarounds. However, those riding to Caples can either continue a couple of additional miles to Kirkwood if the Caples Lake Resort is closed, or return to Sorensen s Resort in Hope Valley for water (around 15 miles). From Carson Pass, it s about 9 miles back to Sorensen s. Beginning once again at the courthouse, we travel northward on Highway 89 to Woodfords, following the same path as that used for our return on Stage 1, only this time in the reverse direction. At Woodfords, we turn westward on Highway 88 (also still Highway 89). The road follows the west fork of the Carson River upstream. While river bed ascents are usually gradual in nature, this one is not. We will climb from Woodfords (at 5600 ) to Hope Valley (7000 ) in around six miles. While not a terrible climb, it is rather steep for a river valley. Traffic is increased and moving faster on this highway, so be wary. Hope Valley (above) is a long, beautiful green meadow and the grades moderate upon reaching it. You may want to make a stop at one of the two small 7 ALPINE ROAD TRIP

8 resorts. In roughly the middle of the valley is the Blue Lakes Road turnoff, and our short route for the day turns left there and continues a short distance to the Hope Valley Campground, where there is water. This is the short route turnaround. From there it s downhill nearly all the way back to Woodfords, and then the familiar path from there to Markleeville. The two longer options for the day continue to the far end of Hope Valley and eventually to Red Lake (left). Red Lake would be a nice place if it weren t for the fact that it s at the foot of the very stout Red Lake Grade. At about this point, we begin to climb steeply into a more barren, rocky landscape as we approach the Carson Pass summit at 8570 (left). The sweat investment does pay off in some very lovely vistas on the way up and at the top of the pass, however. There is a Pacific Crest Trail crossing at the summit, although we believe there is no water available. For the true diehards, continue beyond Carson Pass and descend to the very scenic Caples Lake at 7800 (bottom photo). Near the midpoint of the length of the lake is an old lodge, now called Caples Lake Resort. It may or may not be open for business, although there may be water available at the Caples Lake Campground. You will take in some bonus Alpine County scenery at its finest. And if you re really fast, on the return you might catch up with the short route people as they retrace their route back to the courthouse from Hope Valley. The climb back up to Carson Pass from Caples Lake generally alternates between 4% and 8%, and descending Red Lake Grade would be impossible not to like. From Hope Valley back to Markleeville is déjà vu all over again, only better, in that it s mainly a downhill run. ALPINE ROAD TRIP 8

9 Stage 1: Diamond Valley Stage 2: Pacific Grade 9 ALPINE ROAD TRIP

10 Stage 2: Alpine Lake Stage 2: Climbing to Ebbetts Pass on the return trip ALPINE ROAD TRIP 10

11 Stage 2: Silver Creek Stage 3: Caples Lake 11 ALPINE ROAD TRIP

12 Alpine Road Trip Santa Rosa Markleeville ALPINE ROAD TRIP 12

13 13 ALPINE ROAD TRIP

14 ALPINE ROAD TRIP 14

15 Short route 15 ALPINE ROAD TRIP