TRIP DOSSIER ETHIOPIA. (Recce) The Simien Mountains and Castles. Departure Date: Sat, 25 th October Grade: C/D

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1 TRIP DOSSIER ETHIOPIA (Recce) The Simien Mountains and Castles Departure Date: Sat, 25 th October 2014 Grade: C/D

2 Introduction Imagine yourself in the heart of tropical Africa, toiling up a gentle slope at an altitude of 4400 metres, aiming for the highest point in Ethiopia. To the south stretches mile upon mile of green, cultivated land, intersected by dramatic gorges with no roads. Running across the rocky terrain comes a group of barefoot children, wrapped in tatty blankets, heads covered with home-made hats local shepherd kids minding their flocks; living away from home for a week at a time. Memories of Lord of the Flies They don t ask for anything but by God they deserve something. You ll visit medieval style castles in Gondar; trek for six days along the top of probably the most impressive escarpment in the world; come face to face with rare, endemic Baboons and Ibex, and have your hair brushed by a passing Lammergeyer. Yet to come are two of the most spectacular campsites you will ever stay at, refreshing dips in warm mountain rivers. Return home after the dream trip of a lifetime, utterly amazed that such a delightful country receives so much negative press. HIGHLIGHTS Trek through the World Heritage Site of the Simien Mountains National Park. Camp in some stunningly beautiful locations in the Ethiopian highlands. Experience real Africa grass huts, subsistence farming and incredibly friendly people. Feast your eyes from panoramic viewpoints (with 1500 metre sheer drops in places) overlooking rugged and fertile lands. Try out the local dish of injera and wat while watching traditional dancing. Simien Mountains Trip Dossier 2

3 About the Country History It is widely believed that the origins of our human species were in Ethiopia and it is in the Afar region that the oldest human remains were found, at 4.4 million years old. There are many historic sites dating from the first millennium BC including obelisks, temples and palaces (There were no mosques or monasteries in the years BC). From the 3 rd century BC the Axumite Kingdom ruled Ethiopia, until the 10 th century BC, when the Zagwe Dynasty developed. From the end of this Dynasty in the late 12 th century came a series of emperors and kingdoms until the last emperor, Haile Selassie I. Ethiopia has never been colonised, although it was occupied between by Mussolini s fascists. More recently Ethiopia has had a turbulent time, starting with the overthrow of Haile Selassie s government in In the resulting chaos a military leadership took power, headed by Mengistu Hailemariam. For the following seventeen years Ethiopians were subjected to bloody repression, war and famine. A resistance movement grew and resulted in the Tigrayan People s Liberation Front joining forces with the Ethiopian People s Revolutionary Democratic Front. By May 1991 they had succeeded in ousting Mengistu, who fled to Zimbabwe. Since the EPRDF s victory a National Charter has been set up to guarantee fundamental human freedoms and rights, as with more than 80 ethnic groups the potential for conflict was high. (Eritrea became independent in May 1993). The Transitional Government led the way towards peaceful elections in May 1995 when Ethiopia became a federal republic, consisting of 14 regions based on ethnicity, led by the EPRDF. Geography Ethiopia has a diverse population. There are people of Semitic, Hamitic, Nilotic and Omotic origin. There are more than 80 ethnic groups, all having their own language. Forty percent of Ethiopians are Christian, as are 40% Muslim, with the remaining 20% being animists and others. Despite this cultural diversity Ethiopians are primarily Ethiopians and have always been so, never having been colonised like so many of its neighbours. Ethiopia boasts a great variety of scenery too, from the peaks of the Simien Mountains (4600 metres above sea level) to the Dalol (or Danakil) depression, (120 metres below sea level) in the Afar region. There are also areas of tropical forest, lakes, savannah and desert. In the Simien and Bale National Parks, one can see Afro-Alpine flora, and in Ethiopia s parks there are endemic birds and animals, only found in Ethiopia. In Ethiopia s Great Rift Valley there is a beautiful chain of lakes, while further north, Lake Tana, Ethiopia s biggest lake studded with Island Monasteries, is fed by the source of the Blue Nile. Climate The main rainy period in most of the country is from June to September with rainfall being the heaviest in July and August. The dry season is from October to May, with short rains lasting 3-4 weeks in February - March. In the south of the country, in the Omo Valley, the main rains are from March to June, with short rains in November. Because the climate is dependent upon altitude and proximity to the Indian Ocean there are great variations in temperature, depending upon where in the country you actually are, i.e. the hot lowlands as compared to the alpine zone of the Simien Mountains. Language The official Ethiopian language is Amharigna. Other major languages spoken are Oromifaa and Tigrigna. Oromifaa is the language of the largest ethnic group who live in central and southern Ethiopia whilst Tigrigna is the language of Tigray and Eritrea and is related to Amharigna. There are over 80 languages within Ethiopia all with their own different dialects. Simien Mountains Trip Dossier 3

4 The area we visit The Simien Mountains were formed as a result of immense volcanic activity 40 million years ago. The volcanic core of the mountains has now been eroded to produce some of the dramatic highs and lows of the Simiens. There are many summits above 4,000 metres, the highest being Ras Dashen at 4,620 metres (14,901 ft) making it the fourth highest in Africa. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since the late 1960s, the Simien Mountains present perhaps the most dramatic scenery in Africa great volcanic plugs, formed some 40 million years ago and eroded over the aeons into fantastic crags, pinnacles and flat topped mountains, the chess pieces of the Gods, as one writer described them, tower over precipitous gorges, river valleys and plains stretching all the way to Eritrea. While trekking in the Simiens visitors can see the endemic gelada or bleeding heart baboon, the Walia Ibex, the Simien Wolf (the rarist canid in the world) and rock hyrax, plus endemic birds such as the Thick billed Raven, Black headed Siskin, Spot breasted Plover, White Collared Pigeon, Wattled Ibis, White billed Starling, and White backed Black Tit. Cruising Lammergeyers with their 3-metre wingspan are also often seen. The park is also famous for its Afro-Alpine flora, meadows and grasslands punctuated by Giant Lobelia and flowering Red Hot Pokers Trek staff An experienced English speaking guide will lead all groups. A cook and assistant, a Game Scout from the park, and ponies and ponymen will accompany him, the number depending on the size of the party. What you need to provide Your personal equipment as detailed in the clothing and equipment list later in this booklet. A sleepingbag IS required for this trip. Ecological considerations We believe that we are one of the most ecologically aware tour operators in Ethiopia. We ask for your full consideration and co-operation concerning all ecological matters, especially in the disposal of rubbish. Our local staff will outline for you the procedures we use in the Simien Mountains. If you have any suggestions for improvements, please let our local staff know and inform us at Walks Worldwide on your return. It is with the tourists, the locals and the tour operators' cooperation that we can ensure that our tours are as eco-friendly as possible. A Typical Day on Trek Routine You will be up early, around 6.30 and after a hot breakfast, should be on the move by 7.30 to Depending on the day, you might walk for between 4 7 hours. Lunch will be sandwiches, fruit and snacks, while a hot dinner will be served in the evenings. Trekking conditions Our departures are scheduled to coincide with the dryer season in Ethiopia, when you can expect clear sunny days but cold nights. Sporadic rainfall may occur. Simien Mountains Trip Dossier 4

5 Itinerary Please be aware that although we will do our best to adhere to this itinerary, occasionally events out of our control may prevent us from following the exact schedule. Please be assured that the clients best interests will be foremost in any changes that may occur. A degree of flexibility is essential in travelling on such holidays! Your accommodation and meal plan is given in bold italic at the end of each day. B Breakfast, L Lunch, D Dinner. Day 1. Fly to Addis Abba Depart the UK on overnight flight to Addis Abba. Day 2. Arrive Addis Abba You will be met by our staff and driven to your hotel. After checking in and freshening up you will be briefed in detail about your next few days and Ethiopian history and culture. Depending on your arrival time we will try to visit some of the many sites in Addis Ababa. Overnight at the Ras Hotel, D Day 3. Fly to Gondar Fly to Gondar, we can spend the day exploring Gondar s incredible Castles and historic sites. Gondor is sometimes referred to as the Camelot of Ethiopia rich in art, culture and medieval castles and churches. Gondar was the imperial capital from the 17 th to mid-19 th Centuries, and today visitors can see the imperial compound, with castles still in good condition (some recently restored) and the bath of King Fasilides. At Timkat (Ethiopian Epiphany) a nearby river is diverted to fill an area the size of a small swimming pool and worshippers plunge into the cold water in a reenactment of the baptism of Christ in the River Jordan. Although many of Gondar s churches were destroyed during the Mahdist invasion from Sudan in the 1880s, one very fine example, Debre Berhan Selassie, was saved, according to the legend, by a swarm of bees, which routed the invaders. Overnight in Gondar at the Genetics Guest House. B,L,D Day 4. Visit a local community project Today we will continue to explore Gondar, we are also planning to meet up with representatives from Link Ethiopia who we are supporting in their work to help improve and support education programmes in poor communities. We plan to visit a local community school and meet some of the teachers and students. This is a rare opportunity to experience what day to day school life is like for many Ethiopian children. Later this afternoon we take an overland trip to Debark (2,800m) and time permitting take a circular walk in the area Overnight in Debark, Simien Park Hotel B,L,D Day 5. Trek to Sankaber In the morning, we will introduce you to your muleteers, guides and scouts before departing Debark to Sankaber (3,250m). The journey takes us via Chinkwanit and Michibi where we will take a 4-5 hours trek to get to Sankaber. Overnight at Sankaber camping. B,L,D Day 6. Trek to Gitch Walk from Sankaber to Gitch via the Jinbar falls amidst beautiful landscape. The walk will take 6 to 7 hours. You should see the Gelada baboons, Lammergeyer and perhaps a glimpse of the rare Walya Ibex. Your luggage will be transported on mules although riding is kept for emergencies. Overnight camping in Gitch. B,L,D Simien Mountains Trip Dossier 5

6 Day 12. Lake Tana After breakfast we will take a boat on Lake Tana, Ethiopia s largest lake and the source of the Blue Nile. The lake has 37 islands, some of which are home to very beautiful traditional Coptic monasteries. We shall visit some of the monasteries on the islands and shore by boat. We could visit Ura Kidane Mehret on the Zegie peninsula is a circular mud and straw structure with 12 gigantic wooden doors representing each of the apostles. The 16th-Century house of worship is still used for services today. Interior walls are covered with 450-year-old cotton frescoes painted with images from Christian and other religions. Here you will see St. George slaying the dragon, the birth of Christ even Mary beating the boy Christ! Kibran Gabriel is a traditionally circular construction and is decorated by highly colored murals the Devil, serpents, St Paul and a beautiful image of the Archangel Gabriel. You may also be shown exquisitely illuminated ancient manuscripts. Your guide will be able to discuss the origins of many of these images and you will also learn something of the history of the church. Day 7. Trek to Chenck Today is a 7 hour walk from Gitch to Chenck (3,620m) with its stunning views of the Simiens particularly the Imet Gogo and Bwahit peaks and the Belegez Valley. Once again you will be treated to glimpses of endemic wildlife. Overnight at Chenck camp site. B,L,D Day 8. Trek to Ambiko A 6 or 7 hour walk from Chenck to Ambiko via the Bwahit Pass where (about 90 minutes in to your trek) you will catch your first glimpse of your next day s challenge - Ras Dashen! (4533m) Downhill from this viewpoint will bring you to the Mesheha River and a steep climb uphill will find you at your overnight stop. Overnight Ambiko campsite (3,100m). B,L,D Day 9. Trek to Ras Dashan An early start from the camp site to achieve the summit of Ras Dashen, Africa s fourth highest mountain about 5 hours in to the day. You will note as you are scrambling that there appear to be two summits. The first is the highest at, it is said, 4,533m - there is some debate about the measurements- then we return to Ambiko for a well earned rest. Overnight Ghion Hotel Bahir Dar. B,L,D Day 13. Blue Nile Falls and departure Morning drive to the Tis Abay to explore the Blue Nile Fall and its surroundings. In the evening we depart from Bahirdar Airport and fly back to London via Addis Ababa. B, L Overnight the Ambiko campsite. B,L,D Day 10. Return to Chenck Today we will walk back to Chenck campsite then from Chenck we will be driven to Debark. Day 14. Arrive UK Practical Information Overnight Simien Park Hotel, Debark. B,L,D Please also check ntry_guide/africa/ethiopia.html Day 11. Drive to Bahir Dar From Debark we will drive to Bahir Dar via Gondar. Passports and Visas Visas are required by all visitors, and they should be obtained before departure from the Ethiopian Embassy, 17 Princes Gate, London, SW7 1PZ, tel Overnight Ghion Hotel Bahir Dar. B,L,D Simien Mountains Trip Dossier 6

7 an_visa_ethiopia_embassy_uk_ethiopian_emb assy_london_uk.htm We regret that we are unable to acquire your visa for you. Non-resident U.K. passport holders and citizens or other countries should apply to their nearest Ethiopian embassy for visa requirements. Accommodation You will be staying in good hotels or guesthouses in towns, each room having en suite toilet and shower/bath. However please do not expect very high standards in this extremely poor country and bear in mind there can sometimes be sporadic water supplies. The campsites in the Simien Mountains National Park are all chosen for their scenic beauty, and most have had longdrop toilets built for trekkers to use. PLEASE USE THESE AND NOT THE BUSHES. Double or single tents are supplied according to the clients wishes. The cook and assistant will provide hot and nourishing meals. Food and drink The national dish is injera, a flat, sour dough pancake made from grain, served with meat or vegetable sauces called wats. The injera is used to eat the stew with, a bit like chapattis, to pick up the sauce. Ethiopians use a blend of spices called Berbere which gives the food its characteristic (and hot) taste. While trekking, soups, stews and pasta dishes will be served, with the occasional barbecue of locally purchased lamb. Vegetarian food can be served, if you wish. All water in Ethiopia should be regarded as being potentially contaminated and it is recommended to use bottled or sterilised water (boiled or with iodine) for drinking and brushing teeth. Milk is unpasteurised and should be boiled. Powdered or tinned milk is available and is advised. Avoid dairy products which are likely to have been made from unboiled milk. Only eat well-cooked meat and fish. Vegetables and fruit should be peeled or cooked. Local transport Transfers in and around Addis Ababa, in Gondar and from Gondar to our starting point of the trek in Debark will be by mini bus or Coaster bus, depending on the size of the party. You will travel between Addis Ababa and Gondar, Axum and Lalibela, Lalibela and Addis using Ethiopian Airlines domestic flights. In the Simien Mountains National Park you will be walking with pony support if required! Baggage Please make sure that your baggage is clearly marked with your name, inside as well as outside, in case the labels get detached. We limit you to 15 kilos whilst on trek, and recommend you to pack your clothes in plastic bags to ensure they remain dry. We would prefer you use soft kitbags rather than large rucksacks on trek, and we will be sending you a complimentary Walks Worldwide kitbag about two weeks prior to the tour, which is ideal for the purpose. Your entire trek luggage (including your sleeping bag) should, if at all possible, be packed into one kitbag. Extra baggage may be left in your hotel while you are trekking. Vaccinations and medical precautions We recommend that you see a travel advice clinic or your GP well before you travel to check the current requirements. It is generally wise to ensure that you are up to date with vaccinations of tetanus, polio, typhoid, and hepatitis A. You may also like to consider having the vaccinations for meningitis, hepatitis B and rabies. Anti-malarial tablets are advised for the low-lying areas, but Addis Ababa, Gondar and the Simien Mountains are above the mosquito zone, so unless you plan to travel elsewhere in Ethiopia, malaria prophylactics will not be necessary. Diarrhoeal diseases, including giardiasis, and typhoid fevers are fairly common, although with care and attention towards hygiene they can mostly be avoided. Rabies is present (as in most developing countries) but if you avoid contact with animals it is a very low risk. If you do receive an animal bite, seek medical advice without delay. Currency The currency used is the Birr, 100 cents = 1 birr. The exchange rate usually hovers around US$1.00 = 19 Ethiopian birr. Please see for the latest rates. Money is best changed in Addis, though facilities are getting better in Gondar, Axum and Lalibela. Credit cards are NOT widely accepted yet. Bring travellers cheques in sterling or US dollars, but it is best to bring some US dollars cash as a backup. Electricity 220 volts A.C. Plugs are of the two-pin variety. Time Three hours later than GMT. Ethiopia has its own time locals use a 12-hour clock, with 0700 being 1 o clock and 1800 being 12 o clock which can get extremely confusing! Contact Details It is not our policy to provide addresses and telephone numbers of every location that you will be staying at as due to frequent changes in contact details it is very difficult to provide an accurate list. Your Final Joining Instructions, which you will receive 2 weeks prior to departure, will show any local contact details that are required. However we Simien Mountains Trip Dossier 7

8 would be glad to provide you more details if you have a specific reason. Some mobile phones work in Ethiopia. If you have not used your mobile outside the UK before you will have to contact your operator to enable international calls. We do not however encourage mobile phone use whilst walking on any of our trips out of courtesy to other clients please use you mobile phone discretely. If you do need to get in touch, or if anyone needs to get in touch with you, please contact the Walks Worldwide office ( ) during office hours. Tipping There is no compulsory tipping on any of our treks! It is however customary to leave a small tip for meals, and if you are happy with the service provided by muleteers, cooks etc, the guide can advise you on what would be appropriate. If you budget a couple of pounds a day for tips, this should cover everything. Things to buy There are many arts and craft items worth looking at including jewellery, leatherwork, pottery, horn, basketwork and weaving work. Many of the artefacts in Addis Ababa reflect the Christian traditions, such as silver crosses, icons and paintings, Wooden carvings are also available from the south and south-west. Maps The best map of the trekking area is Simien Mountains Ethiopia (1: ) published by the University of Berne. Stanfords at Long Acre, London WC2E 9LP (Tel: ) Flights Airlines often change their routings and timings with little warning, we do not state flight details here but the exact details for your flight will given to you with your booking confirmation. Please note however that these details are subject to change up until the last minute, and there may be occasions when we even need to place passengers on a different airline. Local joining details for those not flying from London You must arrive in Addis Ababa no later than the afternoon of Day 2. From the airport you will be able to take a taxi to your hotel. Included in the price: Flights ( if booking a flight inclusive package) All transfers Tours and Entrance fees Accommodation on a twin bed/share basis All meals and food while trekking Services of local guides, cooks, scouts and ponymen UK airport tax Special farewell dinner Extras: Ethiopian departure tax (if still applicable) Some meals in towns and cities (see meal plan) Tips Personal spending and souvenirs Insurance Visa fees (obtain prior to UK departure) Simien Mountains Trip Dossier 8

9 Clothing and Equipment Lists. At least one set of smart casual clothes will be useful in hotels on this holiday. On trek you must not worry about how you look, comfort and protection against bad weather are of prime importance. Because mountain weather is so very variable, we recommend a number of thin layers rather than a few thick ones. Take old, well-worn clothes rather than rushing out to buy new ones, since they will probably get rough treatment on trek. The following list of clothing and equipment is intended to be fairly comprehensive, and experienced trekkers will take a good deal less luggage than we recommend. CLOTHING Walking boots and spare laces Trainers/approach shoes Socks 3+ pairs (Walking and Casual) Underwear 3+ T-shirts 3+ Shorts Trekking Pants Light fleece 1-2 Thick fleece 1-2 Thermal base layer shirt 1+ Waterproof jacket with hood Waterproof trousers EQUIPMENT Sun Hat Warm Hat and gloves Gaiters Swimwear (if joining Ha Long Bay extension) Daypack/rucksack (approx. 35litre capacity) Sleeping bag (3 seasons) Sheet sleeping bag (optional) Thermarest/Karrimat 2 Large water bottles ( 1 litre each) Towel quick drying pack towel is recommended Torch (and spare bulb and batteries) Camera & accessories Binoculars (optional) A variety of dry bag/plastic bags Sunglasses First Aid Kit Washing/Shaving kit Anti-Bacterial Handwash Water purifying tablets (iodine based are best) Small personal First Aid kit Trekking poles (recommended) Reading material Insect Repellent Sun Cream Tickets/E tickets Passport Money The following items should also considered as being useful on a walking holiday Penknife/small scissors Moisturising cream Baby wipes Snacks/Energy bars Safety pins Padlock for your kitbag Small sewing/repair kit Small mirror Nail clippers Spare glasses/contact lenses Earplugs (against snorers) Cold water Travel Wash (preferably biodegradable) Travel adaptor Simien Mountains Trip Dossier 9

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