Death Valley National Park. Pacific Coast Highway. Desert Escapes CALIFORNIA. Santa Barbara. Malibu. Santa Monica. Huntington # Beach # #

Transcription

1 56 boutiques along Melrose Ave, Robertson Blvd or Abbot Kinney Blvd in Venice, Surfing es then shop with A-list stars Family Fun at revered Fred Segal or Beverly Hills Rodeo Dr. Gold Coastin Follow any jammed freeway westbound and you ll Bring the kids, grandparents, Theme Parks hit the beach. Soar on cousins heck, just load up the solar-powered Ferris everyone in the minivan. wheel on Monica s Disneyland is just the start pier, meet zany characters of your zany trip through along Venice s boardwalk, Southern California s theme cycle the South Bay, where parks. Then again, the Magic Kingdom and Disney s Shopping surfers and party animals Culture mix, or bring the whole California Adventure might family to Long. be reason enough for your es whole trip. Doing Downtown Though many tourists The OC sidestep it, downtown You ve gawked at Orange Seeing Stars packs more punch, blockper-block, than any other and bathers in countless County s beautiful beaches Hollywood has its glittering restored movie palaces, place in LA. Gobble up movies and TV shows. Now its pink-starred Walk of the Central Market, Chinatown and Little Tokyo. life along this almost-too- see the fantasy spring to Fame and red-carpet movie premieres. And almost everywhere you go in LA, the Catch a contemporary art beautiful-for-its-own-good show or a live performance stretch of coastline between cult of celebrity will follow, at Walt Disney Concert LA and San Diego County. whether you re star-spotting Hall, a sculpted Frank with the paparazzi in Malibu or joining a live studio You ll nd SoCal s hang- Surf City USA Gehry designed icon sitting atop the Grand Ave audience for a TV show taping in the Valley. ed in Huntington, loose surf culture personi- Culture Corridor. Museums abound, both downtown and beyond. stop there. Territorial locals though the OC s waves don t Fashionista Alert You don t need to see Project Runway to know that p 60 means you ll need an introduction, or earn your chops LA is a fashion capital on with a quickie learn-to-surf par with NYC, Paris or Tokyo. Hit the cutting-edge class or a wild weekend surfari camp. 434 Pacific Coast Highway Desert Escapes Malibu # Huntington Manhattan, Venice Joshua Tree # National Park Newport Laguna Palos Verdes Salton Sea Peninsula Julian # Anza- La Jolla Mission P A C I F I C O C E A N Point Loma BAJA CALIFORNIA The cover image of the Eagles album Hotel California is of the Beverly Hills Hotel, but the group remains unspecific as to which hotel inspired the title. CALIFORNIA # 18 ARIZONA NEVADA ARIZONA Barbara GO Apr-May & Sep-Oct # Los Angeles GO Apr-Oct # # # Palm Springs Anaheim GO Dec-Apr GO Apr-May & Sep-Nov # San Diego GO Apr-Nov Desert, dry climate Dry Climate Warm to hot summers, cold winters High Season Shoulder (Apr Low Season (Jun Aug) May & Sep Nov) (Dec Mar)» Accommodation» Crowds and prices» Accommodation prices up % drop off, especially rates drop near» Major holidays along the coast the coast, but not are even busier and»temperatures always in cities more expensive remain mild, with» Chillier» Thick clouds may sunny cloudless temperatures, more blanket the coast days in September frequent rainstorms during June gloom and October and mountain snow» Coincides with low»weather typically»coincides with season in the desert wetter in spring, peak season in the drier in autumn desert regions Currency Language Often overlooked by star-struck sightseers in Hollywood, Downtown LA (p69) is one place you won t» US want dollars to ($) miss. From architect» English Frank Gehry s Walt Disney Concert Hall on Grand Ave s Cultural Corridor to the ethnic avors of El Pueblo de Los Angeles, Little Tokyo and Chinatown, Downtown encapsulates everything LA has to o er: cutting-edge creative arts, a melting pot of world cultures and aspiring civic spaces to rival New York or Chicago. Tip: take a ride into history on the reopened Angels Flight funicular, the world s shortest railway. Walt Disney Concert Hall, above» Dorm beds $25-40» Find farmers markets and taquerías for cheap eats» Skip theme parks, hit the beaches and plan around free admission days at museums»two-star inland motel or hotel double room $75-150» Rental car from $30 per day, excluding insurance and gas»three-star coastal lodging from $150 per night in summer high season» Three-course meal in top restaurant: $75 plus wine Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All you ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go! TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER LONELY PLANET PAGE 1 PLAN YOUR TRIP 25 Top Experiences... 4 Welcome to Southern California Need to Know What s New If You Like Month by Month Itineraries The es & Outdoors.. 39 Travel with Children Regions at a Glance regions at a glance Los Angeles Disneyland & Orange County Barbara Hermosa, Redondo One Week Paci c Coast Highway YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions to help you put together your perfect trip Monica Drop the convertible top, cue up California Girls and step on it! This famous route hugs the Paci c throughout most of coastal Southern California. Before you steer northward, admire the 360-degree views from Point Loma, the bu surfers in Mission and the underwater treasures of La Jolla in San Diego. Our vote for prettiest Orange County town is Death Valley National Park # Long San Diego Palm Springs Las Vegas Borrego Desert State Park One Week Desert Escapes Start your trip in surfside San Diego, then head for the hills and Julian, an Old West mining town where you can pan for gold and gorge on apple pie. Drop into ginormous Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, where dirt roads and trails lead to hidden canyon oases, Native American petroglyphs and 19th-century stagecoach stops. Need to Know When to Go 25 TOP EXPERIENCES Downtown Los Angeles 1 Your Daily Budget Budget less than $75 Midrange $75- $200 Top end over $200 PAGE 409 UNDERSTAND SOCAL GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP Learn about the big picture, so you can make sense of what you see Southern California Today History Life in SoCal As Seen on TV (& Film) Music & the Arts Notable Buildings & Architecture Flavors of SoCal Wild Things IFORNIA Music & the Arts Go ahead: mock. Bad-mouth, belittle, bemoan, besmirch, debase, decry, demean, disparage. Get it all out. Put down, reduce, ridicule, slam, sling mud, thrash, trash. Now open wide and prepare to eat your words, because anyone who thinks that Southern California is all pop culture hasn t been paying attention. For most of the last century, LA in particular has been one of America s most proli c generators of music, art and literature of all stripes. Music The history of music in LA might as well be the history of American music, at least for the last 75 years. Much of the recording industry is based here, and the lm and TV industries have proven powerful talent incubators. Today s pop princess troublemakers and airbrushed boy bands are here thanks to the work of thousands who came before. Post WWII LA s music biz and its attendant club scene arose out of the lm indus try and the massive post-wwii in ux of classically trained Euro ean refugees and American jazz, R&B and country-music hopefuls. Especially in the postwar boom days, LA was a churning, ex o ing mecca for live jazz, R&B, soul, gospel and rock-and-roll grou s. Beat mu sic clubs dotted the Sunset Strip in Hollywood, along La Brea Ave towar the Leimert Park/Crenshaw district and all the way down into the com munity of Watts, Inglewood, Compton and all over South Central LA. m if Los Angeles were 100 people 45 would be White 33 would be Latino 11 would be African American

2 PAGE 58 ON THE ROAD YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE In-depth reviews, detailed listings and insider tips NEXT TOP EXPERIENCES MAP PAGE Barbara p368 Los Angeles p60 Disneyland & Orange County p214 Palm Springs & The Deserts p331 San Diego p266 PAGE 451 SURVIVAL GUIDE YOUR AT-A-GLANCE REFERENCE How to get around, get a room, stay safe, say hello Directory A Z Transportation Index Map Legend may raise their ra this time. School summ ney at vacations make July and me banks August the busiest travel exchange months. American avelex; always T ut rates and e big cities, Safe Travel Tip g money may be Earthquakes with so make sure outr Earthquakes happen all the lenty of cash or a» time but most are so tiny Ai. they are detectable only hote s Checks by sensitive seismological mini instruments. If you re caught» B hecks have in a serious shaker: per fallen out of use. urants, hotels» If indoors, get under a dr es often will desk or table or stand in a» checks in doorway. t smaller» Protect your head and sta and clear of windows, mirrors se anything that might fa THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Sara Benson, Andrew Bender, Adam Skolnick

3 Look out for these icons: Our author s o recommendation A green or S sustainable option No payment F required

4 See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book. On the Road LOS ANGELES DOWNTOWN LOS ANGELES HOLLYWOOD LOS FELIZ & GRIFFITH PARK SILVER LAKE & ECHO PARK WEST HOLLYWOOD & MID-CITY CULVER CITY & MAR VISTA BEVERLY HILLS, BEL AIR, BRENTWOOD & WESTWOOD MALIBU & PACIFIC PALISADES SANTA MONICA VENICE & MARINA DEL REY SOUTH BAY BEACHES LONG BEACH, SAN PEDRO & WILMINGTON BURBANK, UNIVERSAL CITY & THE SAN FERNANDO VALLEY PASADENA & THE SAN GABRIEL VALLEY BOYLE HEIGHTS & EAST LOS ANGELES WESTLAKE & KOREATOWN SOUTH CENTRAL & EXPOSITION PARK EAGLE ROCK, HIGHLAND PARK, MOUNT WASHINGTON & LINCOLN HEIGHTS AROUND LOS ANGELES..210 DISNEYLAND & ORANGE COUNTY DISNEYLAND & ANAHEIM AROUND DISNEYLAND Knott s Berry Farm Medieval Times Dinner & Tournament Discovery Science Center Bowers Museum & Kidseum Old Towne Orange Richard Nixon Library Crystal Cathedral ORANGE COUNTY BEACHES Seal Sunset Huntington Newport Laguna Dana Point San Clemente SAN DIEGO Coronado & the es..301 La Jolla SAN DIEGO NORTH COUNTY COAST Del Mar Solana Cardiff-by-the-Sea Encinitas Carlsbad Oceanside NORTH OF SAN DIEGO COUNTRY Temecula PALM SPRINGS & THE DESERTS PALM SPRINGS & COACHELLA VALLEY JOSHUA TREE NATIONAL PARK ANZA-BORREGO DESERT STATE PARK AROUND ANZA-BORREGO DESERT STATE PARK Julian DEATH VALLEY NATIONAL PARK LAS VEGAS SANTA BARBARA SANTA BARBARA WINE COUNTRY Los Olivos Solvang Buellton AROUND SANTA BARBARA Montecito Summerland Carpinteria Ojai Ventura Channel Islands National Park

5

6

7 Itineraries Whether you ve got three days or 30, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other travelers. 29 Barbara Wine County SANTA BARBARA COUNTY KERN COUNTY Ojai Barbara Ventura #f LOS ANGELES COUNTY Big Bear Lake Channel Islands National Park Los Disneyland Angeles Laguna Joshua Tree National Park# Palm Springs Salton Sea PACIFIC OCEAN GULF OF SANTA CATALINA San Diego # Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CALIFORNIA BAJA CALIFORNIA Two Weeks SoCal Classics Kick things off in Los Angeles, where top-notch sights, bodacious beaches and tasty food form an irresistible trifecta. Follow up with a date with Mickey at Disneyland or a day of sybaritic downtime in Laguna before heading south to San Diego for arts and culture in Balboa Park and a wild night out in the Gaslamp Quarter. Leaving civilization behind, head out to starkly beautiful Anza-Borrego Desert State Park. Cruise around the eerie Salton Sea and into iconic Joshua Tree National Park, beckoning with its Wonderland of Rocks. Squeeze in a day of margarita-sipping and lazing poolside in Palm Springs before heading to Big Bear Lake for hiking, biking, fishing and skiing. Wind west via the scenic Rim of the World Drive to Ventura for a boat trip to Channel Islands National Park, then inland to arty, alternative Ojai to catch a pink moment at sunset. Take a breather in seaside Barbara, whose gorgeous Spanish-Mediterranean downtown offers boutique shopping and dining. Before heading south to LA via star-studded Malibu, stock up on fine pinots in the Barbara Wine Country.

8 30 Knott's Berry Farm Disneyland & &SoakCityUSA Disney's California Adventure Old Town Orange Little Saigon Glen Ivey Hot Springs PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES Catalina Island Discovery Science Center Huntington Costa Mesa Newport #f Newport Bay P A C I F I C O C E A N Laguna Dana Point CALIFORNIA Mission San Juan Capistrano San Clemente One Week Disneyland & Orange County It s no secret: many of SoCal s most popular attractions are in Orange County, famed for its glorious beaches, sunny skies and cartoonish theme parks. But there s more to discover here, too, from high-tech museums to old-fashioned Spanish missions. It will leave the kids thrilled and you exhausted, but there s no question an audience with Mickey at Disneyland is a quintessential SoCal experience. Skip down Main Street USA or dive into Disney s California Adventure next door. Then head to nearby Knott s Berry Farm, America s oldest theme park, which pairs Old Western cowboy themes with futuristic roller-coasters and classic fried-chicken dinners with boysenberry pie. If it s too darn hot, cool off at Knott s Soak City USA. Just so you don t think SoCal is all about theme-park thrills, drop by the interactive Discovery Science Center in Ana, where the whole family can virtually experience the shake, rattle n roll of a 6.9-magnitude earthquake. Then leave the kiddos with a sitter and make a detour inland to adults-only Glen Ivy Hot Springs, aka Club Mud, for a long, therapeutic soak. Back closer to Anaheim, Old Town Orange is another break from Disneyfied magic, with its antique and vintage shops and eclectic restaurants. Little Saigon is not far away, where you can trade those theme-park hot dogs and funnel cakes for a steaming bowl of pho (noodle soup). Cruise toward the OC s unbeatable beaches. Take a day off in Huntington, aka Surf City USA. Rent a board, play beach volleyball, build a bonfire at day s end whatever, just kick back and chill, dude. The next day, roll south to Newport, for soap opera worthy people-watching by the piers. Make a quick stop for power shopping and eclectic eats in Costa Mesa, then keep going to Laguna, a former artists colony with more than two dozen public beaches to spoil you, plus an art museum and a chic downtown shopping and eating scene. From Dana Point you could catch a ferry to Catalina Island. Otherwise slingshot back toward the I-5, stopping off at Mission San Juan Capistrano for a taste of Spanish colonial and Mexican rancho history. Or keep the beach-bum attitude by slacking south to retro San Clemente, near Trestles, a year-round surf break.

9 San Miguel Island P A C I F I C O C E A N Solvang Foxen Canyon Wine Trail Los Olivos San Marcos Pass Rd Rosa Island Ynez Cachuma Lake Cruz Island SANTA BARBARA COUNTY Los Padres National Forest # Ojai Goleta Montecito Summerland Barbara Carpinteria Lake Carpinteria Casitas State Channel Islands National Park Anacapa Island VENTURA COUNTY #f Ventura 31 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES One Week Barbara & Wine Country Leave behind star-struck LA and uncover the pacific charms of Barbara and its vineyards. If you crave a little solitude first, hop a ferry over to Channel Islands National Park and spend a day or two exploring California s Galapagos. Back on dry land, oceanfront Ventura has a walkable downtown, plum full of vintage shops and cafes. Mountainous Ojai is an inland Shangri-la with an artsy pedigree, stunning scenery, a spiritual vibe and unbeatable spa experiences. It s less than an hour s drive from Ojai to Barbara, but why rush? Once you hit the coast, drop by Carpinteria for a lazy day at the beach and a plate of Mexican tacos or fresh seafood downtown, where the retro main street is lined with surf shacks and unusual shops. Just up Hwy 101, Summerland and Montecito are more affluent suburbs, beloved by antiques, art and boutique shoppers. Ah, Barbara. Strut down State St, with its quaint sea of red-tile roofs, then climb to the top of the courthouse for bird s-eye vistas. Down at Stearns Wharf, dig into a bowl of chowder on the pier. Meet local hotties in a pickup game of volleyball on East, or take your sweetheart to romantic Butterfly. If fog hides the ocean views, Barbara s Queen of the Missions awaits inland, as do jewel-like museums, from art and rare manuscripts to maritime and Spanish colonial history. After dark, university students light up downtown s bars and live-music clubs. Barbara lies at the edge of the Los Padres National Forest, an outdoor wonderland of rocks, creeks and waterfalls great for overnight camping. Or take a scenic drive on San Marcos Pass Rd (Hwy 154) past Cachuma Lake up to the farming and ranch town of Ynez, a back door to Barbara s wine country. Drive west to kitschy Danish Solvang, with its pancake houses, faux windmills and tiny mission, then north to the hoity-toity village of Los Olivos. From there, follow the Foxen Canyon Wine Trail, which lazily winds on back roads past big-shouldered wineries and small artisan producers, where you can tipple to your heart s content.

10 32 LOS FELIZ PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES Monica Monica Bay BRENTWOOD Venice Metro BEL AIR WESTWOOD Rapid MARINA DEL REY Centinela Creek BEVERLY HILLS La Cienega Blvd West Hollywood Bus Sunset Strip DASHBus FAIRFAX DISTRICT Fairfax & Wilshire Rodeo Dr MID- CITY Hollywood Blvd Metro Rapid Bus Metro Rail SOUTH CENTRAL SILVERLAKE Union Station Pershing Sq Broadway & 5th St Three Days Los Angeles : No Car Required Hollywood Walk of Fame. Walt Disney Concert Hall. Melrose Ave. Beverly Hills. The beaches. Yup, it can all be done in LA without a car, we promise. You ll need patience, an open mind, a good sense of direction and a couple of Metro day passes. Get an early start and plan on being back at your hotel by dinnertime. Double-check bus and subway route maps and timetables with the Metro s online trip planner ( before heading out. Without further ado, may we present: the logistics for three fun-filled carless days in LA, the city infamous for its traffic. West Hollywood makes a handy base of operation and puts you within walking distance or a short DASH bus ride of the Original Farmers Market and Grove shopping mall, Mid-City s Museum Row, fashion-forward shopping on Melrose Ave and hip restaurants and bars. Explore your immediate surroundings on day one, then the following morning catch the DASH bus north on La Cienega Blvd, then east along the legendary Sunset Strip to Hollywood Boulevard. Explore the famous star-studded walk, then board the Metro Rail Red Line subway at Hollywood & Highland and head to Union Station in downtown LA. Spend the afternoon exploring downtown s neighborhoods on foot, making sure to return to Union Station before 5pm to catch the Red Line to Pershing Sq, then take Metro Rapid Bus 720 from Broadway & 5th St west to Fairfax & Wilshire, catching the last DASH bus at 6pm. On day three, pack a swimsuit because you re headed to the beach. But first, Beverly Hills. Board the DASH bus on La Cienega, transferring to the Metro Rapid 720 west bus at Fairfax & Wilshire. Get off at Rodeo Drive for a whiff of the lifestyles of the rich and famous and perhaps breakfast at Nate n Al delicatessen. Then it s back on the bus and on to Monica. Spend a couple of hours on the sands, check out the pier or squeeze in some shopping along the Third St Promenade or Montana Ave. Catch the Metro Rapid 720 east no later than 5pm, again transferring to the last 6pm DASH at Wilshire & Fairfax.

11 Pacific Coast Highway Desert Escapes Death Valley National Park # Las Vegas ARIZONA 33 NEVADA CALIFORNIA Barbara Malibu Monica Palm # Huntington Manhattan, Venice Springs Hermosa, # Joshua Tree # National Park Redondo # Newport # Laguna Palos Verdes Long Salton Sea Peninsula Julian # # Anza- La Jolla Borrego Desert # Mission State Park P A C I F I C O C E A N Point Loma San Diego BAJA CALIFORNIA ARIZONA PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES One Week Pacific Coast Highway Drop the convertible top, cue up California Girls and step on it! This famous route hugs the Pacific throughout most of coastal Southern California. Before you steer northward, admire the 360-degree views from Point Loma, the buff surfers in Mission and the underwater treasures of La Jolla in San Diego. Our vote for prettiest Orange County town is artsy Laguna, whose secluded coves, craggy cliffs and azure waves enchant. Want ritzy? Plow on to Newport, where bobbing yachts are tell-tale signs of the rich and famous. Officially Surf City USA, Huntington is just up the road. Head across the LA County line to Long, where families find plenty of fun. Continue around the surreally beautiful Palos Verdes Peninsula before plunging headlong into LA s South Bay towns: Redondo, Hermosa and Manhattan. North of boho-chic Venice, Monica beckons with a carnival pier, superb restaurants and shopping. The busy coast highway delivers surreal ocean vistas en route to Malibu, a celebrity hideaway. Wrap up your tour in Barbara, a symphony of red-tile roofs, winecountry restaurants and idyllic beaches. One Week Desert Escapes Start your trip in surfside San Diego, then head for the hills and Julian, an Old West mining town where you can pan for gold and gorge on apple pie. Drop into ginormous Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, where dirt roads and trails lead to hidden canyon oases, Native American petroglyphs and 19th-century stagecoach stops. Gaze into the mirage-like Salton Sea, then head north to retro-chic Palm Springs, the once-again hip resort hangout of Elvis and the Rat Pack. Then it s goodbye to poolside cocktails and off to mystical Joshua Tree National Park, whose twisted namesake trees have inspired artists and poets, while its desert-baked boulders invite world-class rock climbers. By now, you re ready for a big-city fix: Vegas, baby. It s seductive, cheesy and absolutely outrageous. Where else can you climb the Eiffel Tower, make out in a gondola and witness pirate battles with exploding pyrotechnics, all in the same day? Before you gamble away your life savings, drive west to sere Death Valley National Park, a jigsaw puzzle of sand dunes, sun-baked salt flats, volcanic cinder cones and mining ghost towns.

12 OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end broke but inspired they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony s belief that a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse. OUR WRITERS Sara Benson Coordinating Author, Disneyland & Orange County, Barbara After graduating from college in Chicago, Sara jumped on a plane to California with just one suitcase and $100 in her pocket. She has bounced around the Golden State ever since, in between stints living, working and backpacking abroad, including in Asia. Her travel writing features on popular websites and in magazines and newspapers including the Los Angeles Times. Already the author of dozens of travel and nonfiction books, Sara has contributed to Lonely Planet s California, Coastal California, California Trips, Las Vegas Encounter, Route 66, USA and USA s Best Trips guides. Her biggest surprise on this research trip? Finding authentic Japanese ramen in Orange County. Follow more of her adventures around the country and the world online at www. indietraveler.blogspot.com on Twitter. Read more about Sara at: lonelyplanet.com/members/lostasia Andrew Bender San Diego, Palm Springs & The Deserts Andy is a true Angeleno, not because he was born in LA but because he s made it his own. Two decades ago this native New Englander packed up the car and drove cross-country to work in film production, and eventually realized that the joy was in the journey (and writing about it). His work has since appeared in the Los Angeles Times, Forbes, over two dozen Lonely Planet titles and on his blog, Current obsessions: San Diego style fish tacos, Palm Springs midcentury architecture, the next great ethnic enclave and winter sunsets over the bike path in Monica. Adam Skolnick Los Angeles Adam is a third-generation Los Angeleno whose family moved from the old country to Boyle Heights, the Fairfax district and finally to Monica. A freelance journalist, he writes about travel, culture, health, sports and the environment for Lonely Planet, Men s Health, Outside, Travel & Leisure and Spa. He has authored and coauthored nine previous Lonely Planet guidebooks, and a few unsold screenplays. He lives in Monica and Bali, but has an increasing fondness for Downtown and Echo Park. You can read more of his work at com. His new web series, Aspiring, is online at Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN rd edition March 2011 ISBN Lonely Planet 2011 Photographs as indicated Printed in China Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

13 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - Do the right thing with our content.